Ver. 6.9.6 - 1 Feb 2022
This list was created by Rajendra Datta. Many rther people have since contributed, now it is maintained by David Wells and Joe Poutre. CComments, additions, and corrections should be sent to them. This list is intended to include all plastic and resin model ship kits.
From the beginning, this list was intended to be a non-commercial site, in the tradition of the pre-commercialized internet. There is no advertising, and it is available to modellers for free. It is written by and intended for ship modellers. Our goal is to improve the hobby of ship modelling, by making it easier to select good kits, and to provide information on how to fix some of the problematical ones.
While this is a non-commercial site, we are not anti-commercial. Most of us actually like the model industry, and we're happy that they support our hobby. We would even encourage the model companies to read our reviews, so that they can make better kits. Wholesalers and retailers could also benefit from this site by buying more of the highly rated kits. This will benefit modellers as well, by getting more good kits into the hobby shops.
Because this is a non-commercial site, we cannot accept reviews from kit manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers, or importers. We do accept other information (kit lists, basic kit data, etc.) from manufacturers, retailers, etc.
All kits are in 1/700 scale unless noted otherwise
This material should be considered copyright by the authors. This material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is (except for reformatting) and the author is given full written credit for the material. Hobby retailers may display this information as a consumer guide, but may not sell it. Commercial use requires explicit permission of the authors.
| 3.0 | 16 December 1999 |
| 4.8 | 31 January 2002 |
| 5.0 | 22 March 2002 |
| 6.0 | 7 December 2002 |
| 6.1 | 24 June 2003 |
| 6.3 | 1 March 2004 |
| 6.4 | 1 March 2005 |
| 6.5 | 1 September 2005 |
| 6.6 | 1 April 2006 |
| 6.7 | 1 October 2007 |
| 6.8 | 1 March 2009 |
| 6.9 | 31 March 2012 |
| 6.9.1 | 29 December 2014 |
| 6.9.2 | 3 January 2015 |
| 6.9.3 | 8 March 2017 |
| 6.9.5 | 24 August 2021 |
| 6.9.6 | 1 February 2022 |
This section shows a sample of the format we use for kit reviews.
Rating. Review Text.
Frank is our resident expert on HMS Hood. Make sure that you check out his website at HMSHood.com. (DRW)
Yes, that Larry Bond. Creator of the Harpoon gaming system. Co-author of Red Storm Rising (DRW)
Rajen is a fellow escapee from Bell Labs. We started the list over pizza and root beer while we were still both employed there. Rajen has become busy with business and family in recent years (as of 2004) so he hasn't been doing much ship modelling lately. A good fellow, though. (DRW)
Rod is another "good guy" who has helped me in numerous ways. His modelling tastes seem to be ecclectic, like my own, and he has reviewed a wide variety of kits. (DRW)
Tom Dougherty is our resident submarine guru. When I have a sub question, I go to him. He's simply amazing. (DRW)
Michael is a net.friend of long standing. He is a pragmatic modeller, and quite fond of scratchbuilding and conversions. Make sure you check out his web page at www.german-navy.de, which has pictures of his models, and many other articles and images on Kriegsmarine and Hochseeflotte subjects. (DRW)
Gernot is another early contributor to the list. He was the first to add reviews of Japanese 1/700 kits. He knows IJN subjects extremely well. He has high standards, and from the pictures I've seen on the net, he produces excellent work. (DRW)
Graeme is a newcomer to the list as of late 2005, but he's no newcomer to the world of ship modeling. He's a professional. Check out his site: http://www.shipmodels.co.nz. (DRW)
Bill is our resident expert on US Coast Guard subjects, and also very well versed on the subject of sailing ships. Make sure you check out Bill's USCG Model Kit list. (DRW)
Peter is another helpful fellow. He seems to be most interested in Kriegsmarine subjects, and he favors 1/400 Heller kits. Peter also deserves credit for persuading WEM to produce an aircraft set for the Revell 1/720 Graf Zeppelin kit. (DRW)
Jodie Peeler never fails to impress. Her knowledge of liners and aircraft carriers (especially Essex class) is truly amazing, but don't think she's limited to just those. She knows destroyers as well, and also is very familiar with the N/S Savannah. If that weren't enough, she's also a fan of turbine cars and airliners. (DRW)
Allan was one of my first ship modelling friends on the internet. We virutally met back in the early 1990s on the newsgroup rec.models.scale. He was one of the first contributors to this list, and still gets a few words in now and then. (DRW)
Joe Poutre is a good friend, a fellow New Jerseyan, and my co-conspirator on numerous projects. I have watched his modelling skills steadily improve, and he's probably better than me by now. He shares my sense of the bizzare, and it's always fun making up "hypothetical" ships with him. (DRW)
Tim Reynaga has been an enourmous help. His knowledge goes back many decades, and he knows things about obscure old manufacturers that I never would have found. He also seems to have a taste for really small scale ships. (DRW)
Brooks has been enormously helpful to us in researching old kits from long-gone manufacturers. His tastes are often similar to my own. (DRW)
Leif is another early contributor to the list. He gave us his list of Airfix kits, and this became the basis for our Airfix section. (DRW)
Matt Stein started writing reviews for the List in 2004. He's a fellow 1/500 fan, so I have to like him! He started a resin casting business, Matt Stein Models in July 2006. All of his reviews were written prior to that date. (DRW)
Floridian Bill Swan is a newcomer as of 2006, but he provided an incredible number of resin ship kit reviews for Version 6.6. He has impressed me with his knowledge of Steel era and WW1 era battleships. I might have a few differences of opinion with him on the waterline vs. full hull debate. I really want to see his "team of trained spiders"!(DRW)
Doug is another newcomer as of 2006. He tells me that he's a member of the Washington Ship Model Society, and that he's working on a history of the USS Wolverine (IX-64) and USS Sable (IX-81) (DRW)
Editor's Note:OK, so I build kits out of the box. Sue me. ;-) DRW.
My advice is to buy Skywave armament sets to replace the often 1960's era kit parts, and use aftermarket PE sets for the particular type of ship to get an overall increase in quality without waiting for someone to retool the kit. Note that the newer releases of the Aoshima/Fujimi/Hasegawa/Tamiya1/700 waterline series come with the new Leviathan armament sets. Saves much trouble.
My opinion of FAIR would be GOOD if not for the replacement masts etc. I consider necessary to produce a good kit.
A Note on kit numbering: The last three digits are unique to a ship in the Waterline 1/700 scale series, regardless of manufacturer (see above listing of manufacturers). The first two digits identify the company, and the issue batch among other things. Recently, new series numbers have been give, advertised on the box top as "NO.xx", where xx does not necessarily correspond to the old two-digit code. Where there is a new series, it is noted.
Gernot has a point, I do tend to build out of the box, and I usually only fix gross, obvious errors. I prefer to modify the plastic parts from the kit than to scratchbuild or add PEB. I admit that there is a point, though, beyond which kit parts aren't worth fixing, and parts substitution becomes more practical.
My main area of interest is the Kreigsmarine and I am knowledgeable of modern warships having served 21 years in the United States Navy and retired as a Master Chief Petty Officer.
I had heard rumors that Academy had obtained the Tamiya molds for the Bismarck. After picking up the kit, I feel comfortable assuring anyone that this is not the case. I do wish though, that I could have had access to a Tamiya kit to make the comparison up close. The first thing you will notice about the box are the words "Static Model" in the lower left corner of the box lid -- more on this later, and the fact that the box art is rather poorly done.
On to the inside! The kit's deck is molded in three sections. The middle section is designed to be removed for access to the battery box and electric motor mounts. That, apparently, is why the words static model show up on the lid. The multi piece deck leaves two very distinct seems running from beam to beam on the model. Filling and sanding them will destroy some of the deck planking, represented by raised detail. The larger cable reels are molded separately from the deck, while the smaller ones are part of the deck, as is the anchor chain. The anchor chain looks to be too small for what it is supposed to represent.
The Arado seaplane's struts are molded in one piece, similar to the float-equipped British Spitfire, and the Iron Cross insignia are molded into the wings, ala Aurora. The catapult is simply a blank plastic strip, with no detail on it at all.
The flag sheet is frankly, pathetic. The swastika on the battle flag looks like a pinwheel; an aftermarket flag is a must here.
The remainder of the kit appears to be well done. As a footnote, I purchased Gold Medal Models 1/350 photoetched detail kit for this model. Comparing some of the brass parts to the plastic ones in the kit left me with the impression that Academy did a pretty good job on the majority of this model. Of particular note are the photoetched radar antenna and the struts and props for the Arado. They make a real difference. This will be my first experience with photoetch detail of this magnitude, and it looks like it will really compliment the model. (JRO)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR.
First of all, the kits for Bismarck and Tirpitz are the same and both resemble rather Tirpitz than Bismarck. Box pictures show Bismarck in baltic camouflage in both cases. The drawing on Tirpitz box is signed "N. Sataku" or "N. Sataker". The kit is motorized with one electric motor which is fed by one AA battery. Machinery supplied with the kit looks fine. There is the only shaft and the only rudder. Shaft holder grease is supplied with the kit as well as the cement. Hull consists of two parts - underwater (red plastic) and everything else (grey). So, you may build waterline model if you like.
Armor belt is about 20 % higher than normal shape. Belt transition into forecastle and stern is somehow coarse. One could try and fix both issues it with careful cutting and sanding. Deck plancking and details are ok except wavebreakers which are too bold. Carefull cutting may be of use here. Anchor racks are missing (anchors are molded right on the deck level) which requires gentle fixing. Material thickness in the bow part of a hull is hopefully enough to apply cutting and deeping in the right place. Bow anchor rake and bow anchor itself are missing, yet bow anchor chain is molded on the deck. Same regarding aft.
There are no torpedo tubes supplied or molded. No floatplanes are supplied as well. Catapult details are poor. Turrets are of slightly strange shape but still resemble the real ones.
Model has one major feature which may be considered as a big disadvantage or as real fun. Indeed, second port 5.9" turret and forward port 4.1" turret are missing completely with their basements. Instead, room is made for motor switch which comes as a gear leaning out of the hull right in place of turrets mentioned. No wonder that the assembly instructions show the model viewed from starboard, not from the port! Carefull tweaking and applying extra turrets of proper scale may fix the problem. One might configure motor switch leaning through the funnel. I plan to abandon the switch at all, and to circuit the battery to the motor directly. I should take care for proper balancing the model in this case and to compensate the switch absence. That is just an idea anyway. (AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Pyro Cutty Sark.
Editor's Notes: See Nimitz-class. Said to have been issued around 1989. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Seems to be a 30cm "box scale" (DRW)
Editor's Note: I have not built this kit, or even seen it out of the box, but from the dimensions and the photo on the box, it looks suspiciously like the Monogram kit with a different stand. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Monogram Kennedy (1/789)
Editor's Notes: I have no idea what relationship, if any, this kit has with the Otaki/Arii kit. This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: May be related to the Minicraft Spruance kit.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: May be related to the Minicraft Ticonderoga kit. (DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a close relative of the Academy Bismarck kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Issued in 2007. When I received this kit as a gift, I assumed it was a repop of Kitech/Zhengdefu's 1/720 scale Titanic with its poor molding and odd hull and superstructure proportions. Happily, this is not the case. An entirely original effort, this Titanic is a much better model, cleanly molded and easy to assemble. While I'm no Titanic expert, the kit's proportions are convincing and the completed model looks like the great ship.
Academy's Titanic seems to have been designed with younger or more casual modelers in mind. The complex structures of the original are broken down into relatively few assemblies so that the model can be built up quickly. Nevertheless, the large amount of attractive molded on detail keeps it from looking too toylike. The crisp, precise moldings were a pleasure to handle with no flash, sink marks, or visible ejector pin marks anywhere. The parts are molded in black, white and tan plastic with components broken down so that one could build a nice looking Titanic model without painting it. Decks are in tan, for example, and the white strip along the forecastle above the ship's name is a separate part molded in white to be attached to the black hull. The result is basic but effective. This clever pre-coloring of parts is actually a return to the very roots of plastic ship modeling, like Revell's Taney and Eastwind kits from the early 1950s. Another nod to less experienced modelers (although useful for all of us!) was the inclusion of spares of some of the smaller parts with extra vents, crane assemblies and even a spare rudder.
As a more experienced modeler I was less than thrilled with the simplified assemblies which in places look a bit chunky, and the prominent hull plating, though dramatic, is overdone for the scale. Much could be improved with the application of photoetch, but the simplified molded in details and that plating mean that creating an accurate scale model from this kit would require a significant amount of work. Perhaps the best way to experience this model is to take it as Academy's designers aparently intended it: as an attractive, easy to build alternative to their magnificent (but challenging!) 1/350 scale Titanic.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
POOR. The box art isn't bad at all but it quickly goes down hill from there. I cannot and would not recommend this kit to anyone! This is another example of a company that has not properly researched the ship, submarine, that they have put on the market. This kit is nothing more than a "toy" that needs assemblyrather than a scale model. On the side of thebox it has this statement:
"FEATURES: Contains optional parts to build as a static display model or a motorized diving submarine".
As a "static display model", it fails miserably because of the lack of attention to simple detail in all areas - hull, deck, and conning tower. The only way that this kit should be built as a static display model is in a waterline configuration. Even as a waterline model it will require extensive work to get it even close to what a Type IXB should look like. I am not even sure that it would be worth the man-hours. Include the motor, add batteries and give it to a 5 year old. Paint optional. Kit rates a "blech". (DK)
Editor's Notes: See Nimitz-class.
Thanks to Jodie Peeler for her help with the history of Adams. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Jodie Peeler's review of the Life Like re-issue of this kit. Originally issued by Adams circa 1958. (DRW)
(TR) 29 December 2008
FAIR. This Santa Maria molding originated as one of the Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" releases in 1952. It was also issued by Airfix beginning in 1954 and most recently (in Airfix's revised full hull version) by Heller in the 1990s.
(TR) Review dated 29 December 2008.
Their mailing address is:
Admiralty Model Works
12792 West Colonial Drive
Suite 180
Winter Garden, Florida
34787-5937
USA
Their website is http://www.admiraltymodelworks.com/. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Note: one of the weirder ships of the 20th century. Armed like a battlecruiser with 15 inch guns and armored like a light cruiser she was officially classified as a large light cruiser. This bizarre vessel saw light service in WW1 and was eventually converted into an aircraft carrier and was sunk by the Germans in the opening days of WW2. Interestingly, her main battery turrets removed for the conversion to an aircraft carrier wound up being installed on the last battleship of the Royal Navy, HMS Vanguard which was finished after the end of WW2. This model depicts the ship in her battlecruiser (large light cruise guise). Admiralty also has released the sister ship to Courageous, HMS Glorious in a later fit that includes aircraft flying off platforms but not yet as a full fledged aircraft carrier which she too was converted into.
Kit Parts: this is a very large resin kit that includes photo etch, brass rod, plastic rod, metal chain and decals for flags. The massive one piece hull and lower superstructure is simply gorgeous and packed with detail. I'm basically speechless in trying to describe the quality of the casting in this kit. It isn't just flawless and highly detailed, it is incredible. You cannot buy a better kit in ANY medium than this kit. It is complete and needs nothing else to create a stunning ship model. What else can I say?
Directions:: Multipage, highly detailed, expertly drawn, line drawings, exploded views and color plates are some of the best directions that you can ever have. In addition to assembly and painting directions (text in English, colors called out in White Ensign Models Colourcoats), there are also clear and concise rigging directions. Among the best directions in the industry.
Packaging: huge, heavy cardboard box with a unique twist. My kit was packed with an inner box that was actually a clear plastic display case! All parts bubble wrapped in plastic bags with foam peanuts in all the voids.
Admiralty is a newcomer to the resin ship maker's club but they are far and away one of the best in the business. (the principal in the company has been with resin products for a long time, but the company is new).
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1917.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1918.
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
The kit depicts the vessel in 1918 with flying off platforms on both turrets. The AMW kit #700/003 of Courageous depicts a slightly earlier sister ship. The ship was at best a white elephant for the RN in this configuration but an interesting subject for the modeler. Glorious began the conversion to an aircraft carrier in 1924 and served as such in WW2. She was sunk by Scharnhorst and Gneisenau.
Kit Parts: this is a superbly cast resin model that includes a beautifully crafted photo etch set, turned brass barrels for the main battery, brass and plastic rod for masts and yards, decals and a resin molded copy of the ship’s crest. This kit is without a doubt one of the finest resin kits ever produced.
The only negative, a minor one at that, is dealing with the scores of incredibly tiny detail parts in both resin and photo etch. This will require a steady hand and a good bit of skill.
Directions: Brilliant, multi-page drawings and text that are among the very best in the business.
Packaging: Heavy cardboard box decorated with a color illustration of the ship. The hull is bubble wrapped and carefully taped. All other parts are bagged and taped in place to reduce movement. Everything is then surrounded in foam peanuts.
You just can’t buy a better model of any kind than this kit.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1965.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1946.
(TR) Review dated 18 November 2009.
I have an Advent BONHOMME RICHARD which is clearly the Revell Essex-Class SCB-125. I am wondering if it is true that the Advent TICONDEROGA is the Renwal instead. (The Advent kit has Revell copyright on sprues and also on the instruction sheet).
(Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: I'm pretty sure that the Advent Ticonderoga is indeed the old Renwal kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Buckley. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, the same as Revell's Eastwind kit, though some have suggested that the kit is incorrect for the Burton Island. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Ward. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Eagle. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Enterprise. Thanks to Rob Theriaque for finding the information on this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Intrepid. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Flying Cloud. (DRW)
Reissue of the Revell Iowa-class. (TR)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Montrose. (DRW)
Reissue of the Revell Charles W. Morgan . (TR)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal North Carolina. Issued circa 1979. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Olympia. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Pine Island. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Queen Mary. (reviewed by Jodie Peeler) Issued circa 1979. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Ranger . (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal Essex-Class SCB-125. (DRW)
Reissue of the Revell U-99. (TR)
Reissue of the Revell Revell Soviet Spy Trawler Volga. (TR)
AER Colectie Srl.,
41 Bolgarskaya street,
office 11 PO391,
Chisinau, Moldova.
April 2010.
OK.
This five-kit combination set is a reissue of the World War Two Soviet types D, L, S, Shch, and M submarines previously marketed by Novo, Maquette, Encore Models, and probably others. Evidently produced by the same Soviet model kit design team sometime during the Cold War, each of the subs is a separate injection molded plastic kit. The kits build into full hull models ranging from five to seven and a half inches in length.
Though not of the highest quality, these old Soviet-era model kits are very inexpensive and generally accurate. With a little extra detail work they could be an interesting counterpoint to those 1/400 scale U-Boats in your collection.
(TR) Review dated April 2010.
| Cossack (Tribal) | Tartar (Tribal) |
Editor's Note Re-issue of the old Airfix Tribal-class kit
Editor's Note Re-issue of the old Airfix Tribal-class kit
EXCELLENT. The most famous of Imperial Japan's submarines, the I-19 is also the most modeled; from Aurora's good old box-scale kit to Nichimo's magnificent 1/200 scale version, the I-19 has long been well represented in injection molded plastic. AFV Club's offering is the first in the more popular 1/350 scale. The kit consists of 111 parts including 72 in grey styrene plastic, 1 in red plastic, 31 etched brass, 7 in clear for the sub's seaplane, plus decals for both the boat and airplane. Parts are perfectly molded with sharp detail and no flash. Dimensions and shapes are dead-on for 1/350 scale, and the density and texture of the raised and engraved detail throughout look just right. The model goes together conventionally, with the two piece hull split at the waterline with a separate underwater hull molded in red. Fit throughout is excellent, and the entire sub can be assembled in just a few minutes. As with AFV Club's Type VII U-Boat kits, nicely done pressure hulls for the hull and conning tower are included, although they are invisible once the sub is assembled. Even if one were to open up all those hundreds of drain vents along the hull sides, the interior detail could scarcely be seen. Similarly with the delicate ribbing detail on the inside of the aircraft hangar; nice, but ultimately invisible. Other unusual design features include a moveable deck gun, rudders, and aft dive planes as well as an aircraft crane and antenna tower that can be retracted into the deck. Of only limited appeal to most modelers, these little gimmicks are at least accomplished with no detriment to scale appearance.
Other innovations are more useful. The forward dive planes, for example, are provided as separate parts to depict them as either deployed or retracted. Although it would have been a simple matter to cut the extended hydroplanes and push them inside the hull to show them retracted, the use of a dedicated part for this is a simple, effective construction time saver. A finely done photoetched bass fret provides railing, small cranes, aircraft components and other parts that could not be done nearly as well by injection molding (although many of these parts are also alternatively included in plastic). These provide an added finesse to the model, leaving little, if any, need for aftermarket photoetch. Good as these extras are, it is the extraordinary quality of the basic kit itself that makes it stand out. Starting with solid dimensional accuracy, precise molding and ease of construction, this kit just gets better and better. The level of detail on the parts is amazing, among the best I have ever seen. The hatches on the main deck, for example, are perfectly molded and even have microscopic handwheels relief-molded on to them. The periscopes, combined with the shears as a single part, are unbelievably fine with all the distinctive details on the periscope heads cast in scale. The guns, binocular mounts, rangefinder and other small fittings are uniformly excellent. The Yokosuka E14Y "Glen" floatplane is a tiny sixteen-part kit in itself with its own decals and photoetch. It even includes two miniscule incendiary bombs with correct shape and fin detail. Amazing!
If I were to offer any criticisms of the kit at all they would be minor ones: the open sides on the conning tower at about 1mm (close to 14 scale inches) are too thick, and the solid molded bridge windows might have been provided as a photoetched part. The decal hinomaru "meatballs" for the aircraft are slightly off register, and markings are provided only for the I-19, although there were 29 of the type B-1 Otsu-gata submarines, some of them well known.
These really are nitpicks, though. AFV Club's I-19 remains an outstanding kit, in many respects better than recent 1/350 scale releases by larger, more established companies like Tamiya, Hasegawa, Aoshima, and Fujimi. Along with DML of China (whose recent USN destroyer releases have become the gold standard in 1/350), Taiwan's AFV Club is emerging as the premier quality producer of injection molded ship kits in 1/350 scale. The big Japanese companies had better watch out, because the Chinese are on the move!
(TR) Review dated 18 November 2009.
EXCELLENT. Comes with decals for both US and ROC Knox-class frigates. Nice detail, no sink holes. While I have never seen a Skywave Knox-can, this kit sure looks like a Skywave mold. I adapted mine to full hull by widening a DML Perry lower hull and adding a SQS-53 sonar dome from an ARII Spruance. Bilge keels will have to be scratchbuilt for this conversion. (DRW)
I don't think this is a Skywave derivative; there are multiple differences in parts. The ASROC launcher, 5" gun, and Phalanx are all moulded differently than their Skywave equivalents. Plus, they include a (correct) SH-2 helo, which Skywave doesn't even produce, even in those ships that are supposed to carry it. (JP)
GOOD. This is the same kit as the DML. Good kit that builds very well right from the box. Some minor fit issues but no worse than the average plastic kit. Props are a little crude but can be made nice with a little sanding. Sinkmarks on the two turrets need minor filling. Good instructions and decent decals. Some details a bit overscale but that's to be expected for a 1/350 injected sub. Just build it clean and apply a light wash and you'll have a fine little model.
(RWS), Review dated 5 August 2007.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Boston.(DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Revell Forrest Sherman.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Hope. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Long Beach. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Mission Capistrano. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell PT-207. (DRW)
FAIR. I built the AHM version of this kit many years ago, which was a reissue of Revell's PT-212 with different decals. The model was one of Revell's very first nautical releases, dating originally from 1953. It has been reissued may times over the years as PT-207, PT-211, PT 212, as part of the "Admiral's Fleet" and "Victory at Sea" combination kits, and by AHM as PT-207. The model depicts a Higgins 78 foot PT, definitely not a Vosper as some have thought. Often listed as 1/72 scale (including by AHM), the kit is actually closer to 1/98. The difference is apparent compared with my 1/72 scale 80 foot Elco PT-109, which is significantly more than two scale feet longer.
It is a very old kit, but parts fit and details are fairly good. The full hull is a single piece molding. Designed during Revell's infamous "flat bottom boats" era, this kit actually has a nicely rendered hull with an accurate chine, perhaps to aid operation (one version issued in the 1960s came with a motor). The deck and deckhouse come molded as a single unit, with other details either separate small parts or molded directly to the deck. Some of the surface detail looks good, but the dinghy is molded to the forecastle as is a coiled mooring line-not very convincing in this relatively large scale. Weapons are ok. Torpedoes and 20mm Oerlikons are separate pieces, but the latter have gunner figures cast directly to them, which is a real problem if you don't want to include figures! Actually, the most notable aspect of the kit is those three very nicely sculpted crew figures. A very innovative feature for the time, they were created by master sculptor Anthony D. Bulone, best known as the sculptor of the original Mattel Barbie doll. Not one of Revell's best, it is still an attractive, simple kit good for a quick, fun build.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Airfix was founded in 1939 as a toy company. Their first model ship was apparently the Golden Hind, first produced in the early 1950s. Airfix was purchased by Humbrol (parent company of Heller) in 1986. Humbrol was purchased in 1995 by Alan McGuire & Partners of Dublin, Ireland, who seemed to want to put some money into the company, but they never invested in new ship molds. They mostly concentrated their efforts on 1/48 aircraft. They did, however re-issue some of their older ships kits. By August 2006, the company fell into grave financial problems again. In November 2006, Airfix was sold to model train manufacturer Hornby, who announced their intention to move production to China.
Airfix ships are characterized by their consistent 1/600 scale, their two piece hulls, and pretty-good overall quality. Prices are usually reasonable.
A few of their early battleship models, (Iron Duke and Warspite) have an odd problem with their main guns. They have flared tips, like the flash suppressors on some AA guns. These flares should not be there, and they should be sanded down so that the barrels taper normally.
A long time ago, (early 1960s?) Airfix had a US office in Philadelphia.
Check out their web site at http://www.airfix.com/ (DRW)
All warships are made in light gray plastic. All passenger ships are made in white plastic except QE 2 which is made in a very light grey plastic. (LS)
Series 1 Historical Ships (not to scale) (white plastic).
These kits are from the 1950's. These are some of the oldest and most primitive Airfix kits. The first five (Golden Hind, Santa Maria, Shannon, Victory, Cutty Sark) of them seems to have existed in two variants, an early waterline model with a "modelled sea" base and a later full-hull model with cradle, the last three were all full models with cradle. (LS)
Classic Historical Ships (brown or black plastic)
Several of these have been re-released lately as "Special Editions". In these kits the preformed shrouds/ratlines have been replaced by a Heller style ratline machine. (LS)
Series 3, 1967; No of parts: 91; Guns elevate: no; 1 aircraft included.
Detail is low to medium; Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok.
GOOD. Like Devonshire. (LS)
GOOD. I think it's reasonably good. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
No of parts: 71; Guns elevate: yes; Decals for Amazon, Active and Arrow included; 1 helicopter included. Detail is medium, Appearance: good.
FAIR. Needs some slight mods at the stern, but otherwise, the hull is nice. Missile launchers (Exocet & Sea Cat) are too small. 4.5" gun lacks detail, but it does elevate & rotate! (DRW)
Series 4, 1967; No of parts: 171; Guns elevate: no; Detail is medium; Appearance: good. The kit includes 12 aircraft, cable deck & quarter deck.
GOOD. A little lacking in detail, but none too shabby. (DRW)
GOOD/FAIR. My second kit bought a few years ago was in slightly worse shape than my first, but still recommended. (LS)
GOOD. This ship makes a presentable model built OOB. Options include placement of antenna cranes and aircraft elevators. Details are decent. Carley floats are separate parts, 4.5" turrets look good. Aircraft are Swordfish and Fulmers, wings of which appear a bit thick. Could use some better painting instructions, but research is part of the fun.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 2, 1975.
EXCELLENT. Series 2, first issued in 1974. This was one of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships intended for wargaming. This series set the standard for injection molded "wargame scale" models back in the 1970s, and the Ark Royal is among the best of them. The model consists of 42 medium gray plastic parts, all cleanly molded with almost no flash. The above water hullform is accurate with the distinctive knuckle forward and large flight deck overhang aft credibly depicted. There aren't any decals, but six very nice Fairy Fulmars are provided. The 8 inch long Ark scales dead on at 1/1200.
This little kit is in some ways resembles Airfix's 1/600 scale Ark Royal issued seven years previously, retaining some of its better features. One of the things I had liked about that larger version was the open boat decks molded as separate parts fixed to the inside of the hull. I also liked the open sides on the anchor and quarter decks fore and aft which created a realistic see-through effect. Despite its size, Airfix included these features on their diminutive 1/1200 Ark as well. Not only that, they managed effectively to engineer the whole thing as a clip-together! Very cool. This is better than Revell's larger 1/720 Ark Royal which represented these structures simply as deep depressions on the hull sides.
The control island comes as a nine part assembly. Though only 3/4 of an inch in length, the layering of the parts one above the other goes far to make it a convincing representation of that multi-deck structure.
Throughout the model surface detailing is discreet yet effective. On the flight deck the lifts, arrestor gear, and a barrier are represented as subtly raised detail, and the forward catapults are recessed. The dozens of portholes on the hull sides are represented by tiny raised discs with dimpled centers. I would have preferred holes, but at least the disks are consistent and sharp. They actually look pretty good once painted. Liferafts and anchors are molded directly to the hull sides, but they are well done and are convincing in this small scale. The eight separately molded 4.5 inch mounts, though less than perfect in shape, are adequate. The smaller weapons are molded directly to the galleries; fortunately the six 2 pounder pom-pom mounts and eight .50 calibre mounts are in scale and crisply molded. They look quite good. The four rangefinders, molded with their mounts as separate pieces, are first-rate. Similarly with the other small details; the boat cranes and antennas, although molded solid, have delicate raised detail suggesting their lattice structures. Six Fairey Fulmar aircraft are included, and, unlike most aircraft included in 1/1200 scale kits, they are excellent. If only Airfix had chosen to include some Swordfish as well...
I have always liked the 1/1200 "Naval History Series" kits. Airfix released only a few of them before abandoning the scale in the early 1970s, but they remain among the finest ships that company ever produced. The Ark Royal is a first-rate little model-if you can find one, build it!
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Series 4, 1973; No of parts: 250; Guns elevate: no; Camouflage scheme; 2 aircraft included.
Detail is high; Appearance: very good.
EXCELLENT. A real winner. It is very detailed, and it builds up very nicely (except for one piece of the forward superstructure).
This kit represents the ship in World War II, not in her current configuration.
This kit also makes an excellent source of parts for other British cruisers. It can be kitbashed with an Airfix Tiger to make various Colony class cruisers, or you can cut it down a bit to make earlier City class cruisers. Buy it if you can find it. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. An excellent model. Sadly they left the water line out so you will have do some extra work when masking for painting. Otherwise it competes with Repulse as Airfix's best ship model. (LS)
GOOD. This kit is the best I have seen from Airfix. The details are more crisply molded than in any of the many Airfix ship kits I have built.
The kit represents the ship as she appeared in WWII, not in the modernized appearance she now has as a museum ship. I painted my model to show the ship as she would have appeared at the time of her best known action, the Battle of North Cape.
This kit has nice detail on turrets, cranes and air intakes. It includes two Walrus aircraft, one on the catapult and one with wings folded, protruding from the hanger. Use of PE will emphasize the overall quality of molded detail on this model.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Series 4, 1962; No of parts: 170; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
Detail is low. Appearance: bad.
POOR. This is a real challenge for the one who wants to correct details. The armour belt is too low, the water line is too low, all decks are wrongly shaped, the deck details are missing. The 38 cm turrets are wrongly placed, terrible anchors & rudders and so on. Still a quite impressive kit when you are a kid and don't care about such details. (LS)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 2, 1974. FAIR. Series 2, first issued in 1973. This was one of Airfix's first 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships. The boxtop says the model is intended to "...re-enact on any flat surface famous sea actions and battles", so I guess simplifications and accuracy discrepancies are to be expected. At least this Bismarck is better than Airfix's awful 1/600 scale effort released eleven years earlier. The 50 gray plastic parts assemble into a basic but good looking little battleship.
The waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck, so there are none of those annoying mid-deck seams so common on larger scale kits. This is good since the raised deck planking is amazingly delicate; in fact it is some of the best I've seen in any scale. Assorted deck hardware is also well done with bitts, hatches, vents, and other details sharply depicted. Unfortunately, the model doesn't quite capture the graceful yet solid lines of the original. The length/beam dimensions are right, but the hullform is too pudgy fore and aft. Also, the armor belt is too low and the prominent portholes are missing. Worse, the funnel, superstructures and turrets aft are placed too far back. This problem isn't too noticeable until you get to the fantail, which is about 20 scale feet too short.
As one might expect in a clip-together kit designed for wargaming, the superstructure is simplified and lacking in detail. The distinctive spherical hoods of the 4m type SL-8 antiaircraft directors are molded integrally with the superstructure, represented as rounded tops on the mounts rather than as spherical shapes. Not very good. Also, the aft mounts shouldn't have the hoods at all (unless you intend to build the model as the Tirpitz). The two-part funnel is hollow with an open grating nicely represented on the top. Main turrets are ok, except that the barrels are about 6 scale feet too long and the rangefinder hoods extend too far down the sides-but they are fixable. The 150mm secondary turrets have simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable too. Smaller parts vary in quality from fair to excellent. The tiny Arado floatplane is only mediocre with no floats and an overlarge canopy, but the aircraft/boat handling cranes are fairly good. The 10.5m rangefinders atop the superstructures are delicately rendered, as are the masts. The best parts are the ship's boats, 37mm, and 105mm antiaircraft guns. These are outstanding, rivaling comparable parts in many 1/700 and even 1/400 scale kits. If this kit were more readily available I would be tempted to raid the parts to outfit a Revell 1/1200 scale Scharnhorst or Gneisenau.
Like all of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" kits, this is an attractive little model, noticeably finer and more accurate than the more frequently seen Casadio/Almark/ESCI/MPC/Revell "Miniships". Despite its problems, this Bismarck is superior in all respects to the crude Revell 1/1200 Bismarck/Tirpitz. Too bad Airfix hasn't reissued it since the 1970s!
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships
Series 1, 1962; No of parts: 51; Guns elevate: no
FAIR. Detail: low; Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok. Appearence destroyed by clumsy davits. (LS)
It's tough to do a ship this small in 1/600. The tiny details are too heavy. (DRW)
Series 5, pre-1962; No of parts: 86; Decals included. Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok. Participated in the Falkland war.
FAIR. A typical Airfix liner, comparable to the quality of the Queen Elizabeth and possibly a bit better. Fit is fine to me, although stacking all those decks can be an adventure! Nice kit. (JMP)
GOOD. This kit represents the liner in her as-built appearance, with First-Class game deck open. Ship soon had this deck opening covered over and short extentions added to the twin funnels.
Major item that needed changing on kit was mast structure, which was a little undersized and oversimplified. Will still make a nice-looking model built OOB. Great decal sheet with deck markings and nice bow herald.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Pre 1961, series 1; No of parts: 42/41 Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: clumsy
OK. The first Airfix ship. First kits had a special base cradle, later kits had standard base cradles. (LS)
POOR. I seem to recall that the hull is several scale feet too shallow (keel to deck). (Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
OK. Actually, my measurements say quite the opposite. It's several feet too deep. I compared the kit to some Admiralty drawings on one of my reference books. The kit measures about .75 inches (19mm) from keel to forecastle near the bow. The drawings suggest that it should be about .60 inches (15mm).
Series 1, Historical Ships
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1969)
Pre 1962, series 1; No of parts: 60; Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
FAIR. I think there were some fitting problems with this model. There is an excellent guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7 (PSL 1975) (LS)
Series 3, 1964; No of parts: 80; Guns elevate: no; Decals included; 1 helicopter included.
Detail: low/medium - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
OK. A bit "plastic". Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine April 1976. Someone on Internet informed that the superstructure was incorrectly positioned, I have not checked that myself. (LS)
With a little work, it can be accurate. According to legend, the forward superstructure should be pushed slightly more forward. The Sea Slug isn't that good, but it would be hard to do better. A photoetch Sea Slug launcher is called for, but I don't really expect to ever see one. Up until recently,I didn't realize how bad the Sea Cat launchers were. I didn't even recognize them as Sea Cat launchers!
In addition to the 1976 article, Airfix Magazine had another article on detailing this kit in their October/November 1993 issue, on pg 381. (DRW)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1970)
Series 10, 1975
POOR: The Airfix 1/72 E-Boat is a poor kit. The superstructure, deck and armaments are acceptable for an early war boat. There are some problems, but they can be fixed. For example, the vastly oversized depth charge racks should be discarded. The hull, however, is incorrect in profile and cross section. Most obviously, it is missing the pronounced bow knuckle that was a feature of all but the early experimental boats. There are other problems of proportion and shape that will become immediately evident upon comparison to technical drawings. If you use the hull directly from the kit, your model will not show off the sleek lines that made the Schnellboot an elegant and powerful small combatant. (DK)
Series 7, Classic Historical Ships (pre 1963)
Editor's Note: A collection of three Airfix destroyer/frigate kits, portraying ships of the 1982 Falklands Islands war.:
I wonder why they didn't include the Fearless? It makes you wish that Airfix made an Invincible, or a Hermes, or a Type 42, or a Type 22 or........
Issued circa 2004. (DRW)
Series 3, 1968-69; 2 helicopters, 2 landing craft included; No of parts: 119; Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
GOOD. Detail: medium/high - Appearance: good. A slightly uneven model, in some places the details are really great, in some just ok but you won't be disappointed if you buy this kit. (LS)
GOOD. Pretty nice. It even has decent detail in the landing craft as well. The Sea Cat launchers aren't that great, but otherwise OK. I wonder why they never issued this kit with the decals for Intrepid.....(DRW)
GOOD. Send in the (Royal) Marines! This ship, made famous in Operation Corporate, was one of the more fun to build models in my collection. In the USN, it would be classed as a "Landing Ship Dock". The ship has a well deck in the stern that can accomodate landing barges. Normally dry, this well can be flooded and a stern gate lowered to launch these craft. In addition to this, there is a large flightdeck just aft of the superstructure with five helispots. This can be used by either helicopters or Harrier fighters, giving the ship the capability of a small aircraft carrier. The ship is further armed with two single 40mm guns on the bridge wings, and short-range AA missles.
A friend of mine served on the USS Nashville, and seeing my model under construction, opined that it was very close to his old ship in layout.
Quality of detail on this model is inconsistent. The landing barges are pretty good, the two helicopters are so-so, and the 40mm guns are pretty poorly modeled. Overall, it makes a nice model, especially when some PE railings are added.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 10, 1978; Reissued as a Heller kit in 1990; No of parts: 195; Guns elevate: no; Decals included for CVG-1 "AB"; 20 aircraft, 1 helicopter, 1 crane, 4 tractors included.
Detail: medium/high - Appearance: good.
GOOD. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine Sep 1979. Can be built as a waterline model. This is a good kit. The hull above water is made of starboard and port parts with a flat bottom. Two pins extruding from the bottom can either be cut off or put into holes in the separate underwater part. The flightdeck is in one giant part. Everything fits together wonderfully well. Minor error: the aircraft decals are for 1957 but, the funnel is of the rectangular post-1959 type. (LS)
GOOD. Building mine was a dream. Call me crazy, but I prefer it to the old Revell 1/542 kit - the Airfix/Heller version just looks a bit better proportioned to me. (JMP)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been reissued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 6, 1963-64; No of parts: 148; Decals included;
Detail: medium - Appearance: ok/good. The kit includes transparent parts for swimming pool roof and sports roof. (LS)
Series 2, 1966-67; Decals included.
Series 4, 1970; No of parts: 124; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
OK. Detail: medium/high - Appearance: ok/clumsy. To me, a large disappointment. Due to some error in design the front gun turret had not even room to turn. The kit is quite detailed but somehow it just don't look like the other Airfix kits and for example the masts are the thickest found in an Airfix kit. (LS)
OK. This model was a disappointment to me. I felt that the Aurora kit was basically better overall because most of its flaws could be corrected easilier. This is not the case with the Airfix model. First off while the main turrets are very well shaped and detailed they are a little too small and there still is not enough room for them to turn. Unlike the Aurora kit, you can't simply replace them with two from a Revell Scharnhorst or Gneisenau because as mentioned there isn't even enough room. I also was extremely disappointed with the single 5.9 guns. I expected the same level of detail as the mounts on the Narvik DD, which are beautiful. Same goes for the 4.1 inch twins. They are a little better, but again, not as good at similar mounts in the Airfix Prinz Eugen. I do not know if the 4.1 guns are any better on the Airfix Bismarck as I have never seen this kit.
The superstructure was very detailed but the armored tower seemed too short. None of the range finders seemed right compared to pictures I have studied. I do not believe they could be replaced with parts salvaged from other models due to size difference.
The armor belt seems to be incorrect. I believe it was slightly higher on the ship.
Overall, I believe the engraved detail in very good but the layout out and scale problems however lower the overall quality. The smaller Testors Graf Spee is a far better kit, if not the best. (RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Aurora Graf Spee (1/600)
Series 1, Historical Ships
Golden Hind [1/72] (sail)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1977) Editor's Note: Said to portray the ship in 1578.
(approx 1967)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 18 inches long.
FAIR. Detail: low/medium - Appearance: ok. It's a sound kit but it needs a lot of work to be perfect, the hawse pipes and breakwater needs to be completely rebuilt and lots of derrick and deck details need to be added but I can assure you that the end result is worth all the work. (LS)
FAIR.
Kit Background : This is the oldest injection-moulded plastic model of Hood. Since its release in 1960, it has been periodically reissued a number of times. The kit contains 131 pieces and is a full-hull representation of Hood as she appeared in the mid 1930s. Being 1/600 scale, it builds into a fairly large model of 17"/430mm in length.
Moulding & Detail: The kit is of poor quality when compared to the Tamiya 1/700 scale kit or the Italeri 1/720 scale kit. It suffers from a lack of detail and from large, bulky features. As for the quality of he moulding, it is generally crisp, with a small amount of flash. No sink holes were noted, but a few ejector marks were present.
Hull: Correct in overall shape, taper and shear, with the exception of the torpedo bulges. These are present, but do not correctly conform to the true shape of the ship's bulges. The hull also lacks an armour belt. Another odd feature are the open torpedo mantlets. Fortunately, most of these problems can be fixed with a combination of plastic strip stock, putty and a good deal of sanding.
The deck planking is far too wide for the scale. The deck machinery and features (ventilators, capstans, winches, hatches) are all moulded into the deck and are somewhat bulky for the scale. On the other hand, some items which were prominent on the real ship are not-so-prominent here. One such example is the forward break water. Another deck planking problem is the forward Shelter Deck- on this model, there are planks. On the real ship, however, this area was painted metal.
Guns:
Superstructure: Mostly accurate in general shape and layout. It does suffer, however, from an extreme lack of detail, plus the parts are a bit bulky/thick. There are a few notable errors: Both funnels are completely missing their base structures. They have venting around them, but are missing the small rectangular structures that the funnels were situated upon. Another problem area are the batteries situated on each side of the ship. These areas are completely lacking in detail and accuracy. Instead of a planked deck with undulating/curved walls, each side is moulded with smooth decks and straight walls. This can be corrected, but it will take a lot of work.
Masts: Very thick and bulky. The starfish platforms are poorly done. These can be replaced with ultra-detailed photo-etch starfish by White Ensign Models.
Other: Boats are largely accurate. They could be a bit more detailed though. The same applies to the various rangefinders and sighting devices. These are mostly correct, but all are somewhat lacking in detail. One major problem to note here are the kit's painting instructions. Complete rubbish. Hood never had green bridge decks. Please be sure to throw them away and use our detailed Hood painting instructions instead.
Summary: A good kit for its day (1960), but it looks its age. Fortunately, it can be built-up into a good respresentation of Hood with some aftermarket parts and a good deal of scratchbuilding. This kit can be found in man stores, or ordered from any of several online model retailers. It is also available directly from the Airfix website.
(FWA), review dated 7 December 2003, updated 26 March 2006
GOOD. I have a fair amount of sympathy for this kit, since it was the first kit that won me a prize in a model contest, many ages ago. It represents the Hood somewhere between 1931 and 1937. The hull is quite nice, but the bilge keels are missing. The level of detail is pretty decent for its day. The planking on the deck was pretty impressive for its time. The main turrets aren't too bad, but they need a bit of reshaping at the front. Unlike Airfix's Warspite & Iron Duke kits, the main gun barrels are not flared.
I don't like the way the lower parts of the superstructure are implemented. The bulkheads are attached to the deck. This can make both the deck and the bulkheads difficult to paint.
Overall, I'd say it is pretty good for its age, and it can be fixed up pretty easily. (DRW)
GOOD. If built OOB, this kit will represent Hood as pre-1939 refit. Ship still has its 4.5" secondary turrets and single, open 4" AA guns. A little extra effort goes a long way on this model. Addition of side platforms on X turret, extra detailing on primary and secondary turrets are easy to add. Addition of PE a big help as always, but model will still look good with detailing and rigging.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Series 2, issued in 1973. This was, I believe, the first of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships, released about the same time as their 1/1200 Bismarck. The boxtop says the models are intended to "...re-enact on any flat surface famous sea actions and battles", so I expected to see a fairly basic Hood, perhaps similar to their somewhat disappointing small scale Bismarck.
Happily, this was not the case! The kit consists two sprues containing 64 well molded grey plastic parts depicting the ship as she appeared at the time of her loss in May 1941. The model, though measuring a mere eight and one half inches in length, is accurately proportioned and packed with detail. The hull, waterlined with a solid bottom, is correct in overall shape, taper and shear. The single-piece main deck is provided as a separate piece. Detail on the deck is excellent, including a multitude of hatches, bitts, vents, breakwaters, petite ground tackle, and some amazingly delicate deck planking. The raised planking is especially notable, some of the finest I've seen in any scale. The planking is also evident on the shelter deck, but correctly shows this on only the after portion (Airfix missed this on their 1/600 scale Hood). Superstructures and funnels, tiny in 1/1200 scale, are predictably a bit simplified, but they are convincing and basically accurate. However, there is an odd discrepancy with the inclusion of torpedo lookout and searchlight platforms on the foremast. Although the fit of the model is correct for the 1941 Battle of the Denmark Strait, both these platforms had been removed before 1941. Thus the model is incorrect as is, although you could still use them if you make a few modifications to depict the ship earlier in her career. Another inaccuracy is the shelter deck , depicted as a straight line rather than with the angular notches the structure actually had. This can be easily fixed, though. Armament is mixed. Main turrets are good, except that the barrels look too thin; I replaced them with hypodermic needles. The four inch twins are simplified shapes and the barrels are also too long, but they're useable. The 8-barrelled 2pdr pom-poms and UP projectors are very good, but the 0.5 inch Vickers quad machine guns look like single barrel cannons (those on Airfix's 1/1200 Ark Royal, which appeared the following year, were much improved). Other parts vary in quality from good to excellent; masts and cranes are proportional and accurate, and the fire control directors are first-rate. My favorite parts are the ship's boats, which are the best injection molded boats I have seen in 1/1200 scale. In fact, they are better than those found in Airfix's 1/600 scale Hood or even in Heller's 1/400 scale kit!
Minor flubs notwithstanding, Airfix's 1/1200 Hood is one of the better units of their 1/1200 "Naval History Series". Given the perennial popularity of the Hood in all scales, it is surprising that Airfix never reissued it... so now who's your little Revell Bismarck gonna chase?
(TR) Review dated 8 June 2007.
Series 1, 1964; No of parts: 72; Guns elevate: no; Decals included Detail: low - Appearance: ok.
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2010
Series 4, 1968-69; No of parts: 183; Guns elevate: yes.
Detail: medium - Appearance: good. Was clearly the best Airfix ship when it appeared. Lots of very small parts. Side scuttles a bit ugly. (LS)
GOOD. Some of the portholes are a bit large, (drill them out with a constant sized bit) it has the "flash suppressors" on the main guns, (should be sanded down) and the bilge keels are too long, (easily trimmed down) but otherwise, a nice kit. (DRW)
Note that this kit depicts Iron Duke in 1915, not post-war. (AP)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Series 6, 1982(?); No of parts: 167; Guns elevate: yes; Camouflage scheme; 1 aircraft included.
Detail: high - Appearance: very good.
EXCELLENT. A very nice kit with more deck details than any other Airfix ship. The model represents KGV in 1941 with her UP batteries. The camouflage scheme is from the first months of KGV's career. (LS)
EXCELLENT. A real winner. Very detailed. It portrays the ship more or less "as built", with UP launchers on B and Y turrets, and the aircraft catapult amidships. The de-gaussing cable on the hull (specific to the KGV herself) is well done, but it must be removed if you want to convert the kit to portray another ship in the class. My real only criticism is that the 5.25" guns are a little off (Revell did them better). The deck details might be a little overdone, and they are difficult to paint. The kit dates back to the mid 1970s. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
The Airfix-labelled Kriegmarine set includes 11 separate vessels of the WW2 German navy in 1/400 scale:
All of these were previously sold as individual kits except for the E-boats which I think were sold as a pair. There is an instruction booklet containing all the assembly instructions and colour schemes detailed below. The painting instructions are fuller and more detailed than previously, and offer several variants, and are referenced to Humbrol paints. Each type of ship has a descriptive text longer than that in the original kits, and there is an overview of the KM at the front. Decals are provided on quite a lavish scale but all feature the swastika-less version of the ensign.
Overall: an interesting idea (and a bit of a cheap gamble for Airfix, given that they are all old kits), but they have made an effort to provide better instructions and more variety. It will be interesting to see if anyone has the space to make the obvious diorama of a Channel port. It's only a shame that Heller never made the older destroyers and torpedo boats, to make the set really complete. (JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Series 1, 1968-69; No of parts: 73; Guns elevate: ?; Decals included; Detail: medium - Appearance: good.
GOOD. Later editions have Exocet lauchers included. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine guide 7. (LS)
FAIR. It's not bad. It's got a decent level of detail, and comes with a choice of 4.5" guns, or those same too-small Exocet launchers from the Type 21. No Ikara launchers or Sea Wolf launchers, though. (DRW)
Series 2, 1970; No of parts: 86; Guns elevate: no.
Detail: medium/high - Appearance: ok/good.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Scores over the Matchbox Ariadne in every way, except for the lack of mine doors in the stern. Those are easy enough to cut into the plastic. (DRW)
Lots of very small parts. (LS)
Series 4, 1964-65; No of parts: 139, Decals included; Detail: medium
GOOD. Troop transport & hospital ship during WWI. I consider this to be the best of the passenger ship kits. (LS)
Editor's Note: Series 1, Historical Ships. (LS)
Editor's Note: 24 parts.(DRW)
Editor's Note: Series 8 : Classic Historical Ships (1971) (LS)
Editor's Note: Series 5, 1973; (LS)
GOOD. It's not the same kit as the 1/600 Aurora, but it is comparable, and much more available. (DRW)
FAIR. The forward missile launcher should be different from the other two. It is an SUW-N-1 launcher for an ASROC type weapon, not an SA-N-3 SAM launcher like the others.
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Series 3, 1975
Series 2, 1974 (on box) No of parts: 92; Guns elevate: yes. Detail: high - appearance: good (LS)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Much like the Manxman kit and a good companion to the other highly detailed Airfix kits like Prinz Eugen and Repulse. Detail on mine rails, gun shields, deck , bridge structures and torpedo tubes is excellent. Light AA weapons are poor and there some ejector pin marks in hard to fix places. This model is of the flotilla leader Z 28. (IW)
This is a kit of a German Narvik class destroyer (Z28) of WW2. Quality is comparable to Airfix HMS Belfast; very good for this scale/material. This kit is also excellent for conversion, as this class had different configuration/arnament from unit to unit and as the war progressed. Z28 was unique among the Narviks in having two superfiring main guns forward (others had only one single - and later on most units a double turret) and a large deckhouse and two superfiring guns aft (all others had three guns aft, with two on the after deckhouse). Number of AA guns increased during the war. An interesting kit indeed. (EA)
EXCELLENT. This kit is a joy to build. The seams are very nice and the engraved detail is nothing short of awesome. This model is of the flotilla leader Z 28. The detail rivals that of the Repulse. This model is almost perfect to display with any of Revell's 1/570-size German ships. The detail of the single 5.9in mounts (Why they were not used in the Graf Spee and Scharnhorst kits amazes me) excellent. With some research and scratch building you could easily build a complete (and very accurate) flotilla using this kit.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: A collection of four Airfix destroyer kits:
(DRW)Series 4, 1962; No of parts: 134; Guns elevate: no.
OK. Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok. Generally sound but needs a lot of detailing. Guns are clumsier than the Hood's. The kit represents Nelson as she was in 1945 but sadly all the light AA batteries are missing! The latest one I bought (in 1995) was actually in better shape than the one I bought some 15 years ago but the mold is now so old that some of the (few) details were lost. There is a article how to convert the kit to a pre-war variant in "Scale Model International" March 96. (LS)
FAIR. A bit lacking in detail, and the main turrets are the wrong shape, but you can make a decent model out of it. I suspect that they meant to portray the Nelson in 1946, which could explain the lack of 20mm AA guns. The 40mm Bofors and 2 pounder "pom pom" AA guns are present. (DRW)
OK. This Nelson is about average for the Airfix kits I've seen, with a rather waxy plastic and crude details. There are some exceptions, e.g. Repulse. Not as crisp as Repulse. (AP)
OK. Note that on some versions a confusing line on the instructions seems to indicate the platform with 2 x 40mm quads should be placed cantilevered from the top of the superstructure instead of on top of the conning tower. Scale Modeler magazine actually built theirs that way!
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1970)
Series 5, 1974; No of parts: 151; Guns elevate: yes; Camouflage scheme; 1 aircraft included.
GOOD. Detail: medium/high - Appearance: good. A nice kit. (LS)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) So far, it looks nicely detailed, and correctly shaped. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. The detail is great and the fit is quite nice except at the stern where a gap is left.
It seems the kit represents the Prinz Eugen in the '41 time frame. So if a later time is desired additional light AA guns must be added.
The detail put into the 4.1in guns and the 8in turrets is very welcomed when compared to the mounts on the Revell kits. (This is the only small scale with elevating 8" guns! Revell take note!!!!) The 4.1in guns are absolutely the best, second to none. The superstructure very accurately scaled and while the Revell kits does a good job or accurately displaying the overall super structure, I personally believe this kit is superior to Revell's version.
First the flaws. The stern anchor chain is only a strip of styrene about 1/2 " in long on the aft port quarter. Removing it is not the problem. It is the repair afterwards. I messed mine up on my first attempt. After you remove the molded on plastic. Cut a 1/16 inch stick of .005 styrene (I had to use 1/8 due to a gouge I made). In photos of the ship, it appears a metal plate was actually mounted on the deck as a chain slip, so this corrects two errors.
The side armor is wrong. First it is too narrow, too long and does not blend in correctly. Fixing this is a real challenge. I left mine in hopes nobody smart enough would notice. Cutting it off and fabricating a new one would require thinning the sides dangerously.
Bilge Keels. Way too thick. Sanding them off will penetrate the hull a little. Applying a thin piece of styrene strip to the inside of the hull covering the indention. After I sanded away the keel, putty and sanded it to shape. Just add thin styrene strip to replace the molded on keel.
As mentioned earlier, the fit at the stern is not good. The deck is to short and leaves a gap about a full millimeter wide. The bow fits a little better. Filling will be required to fix the stern.
Now the good! Because of the scale it can be displayed with Revell's 1/570 scale German ships. It seems the kit represents the Prinz Eugen in the '41 time frame. So if a later time is desired light AA guns must be added. I really like the effort put into the 4.1in guns and the 8in turrets. (This is the only small scale with elevating guns! Revell take note!!!!). The superstructure seems very accurate. I personally believe this kit to far superior to Revell's version.
I emailed Airfix and there are apparently on plans to re-release this kit. Because of the detail of this model and the after market products available you have the options of numerous variants. First you can build any of the three commissioned cruisers (Hipper [requires bow & hangar modification], Blücher, or Prinz Eugen) or the two unfinished CAs (Seydlitz [CVL conversion or CL with 12 x 5.9 guns], or the Lützow [as a CA, CL or in her final Russian configuration - a very interesting endeavor])
I discovered that the twin 5.9 cm turrets in the Revell Scharnhorst are basically the correct shape and only a hair small. First you have to cut off the barrels. I added .005 styrene strip to all surfaces. I cut three gun ports and drill 1/16 holes. A little putty and sanding was required to finish the shape. A friend has a great vacuum forming machine and in a jiffy I had ten (other projects to) triple 5.9 turrets. Other than this the ships structure is unchanged. Since the triple 6in turrets are a little lighter than the twin 8in ones the AA armament is a little heavier. Use the previous book reference.
This kit begs to ask, what happened to the other kits of this era. The Bismarck and Graf Spee are so poorly researched. I emailed Airfix and sadly there are apparently no plans to EVER re-release this kit. Because of the scale it can be displayed with Revell's 1/570 scale German ships
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
I have a remark to RDF's review. One would reconsider aircraft catapults on Seydlitz CL. According to plans I have, there would have been two catapults, one between funnel and mast as in conventional Hipper-class heavy cruiser, and another one aft the mast. Gröner's book "German Warships 1815-1945", Vol 1, pg 67 is a good reference to the subject.
(AS), Review dated 24 February 2009.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 2, 1977
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Series 2, issued in 1976. Part of Airfix's 1/1200 scale "Naval History Series" which also included the Bismarck, Hood, Ark Royal, Suffolk, and a Tribal class destroyer. Issued between 1973 and 1976, the series was apparently not very successful as it was soon discontinued and none of the ships was ever reissued. That's a shame, because they were nicely done.
The Prinz Eugen consists of 56 grey styrene plastic parts which build into a model just under 7 inches in length and less than 3/4" in beam, portraying the ship as during the Operation Rheinübung sortie with the Bismarck. Though designed as a clip-together wargaming model, it is finely detailed and compares favorably with with many larger scale kits. Hull, superstructure, and funnel shapes are correct and capture the ship's elegant lines well. The waterlined hull particularly is well done, accurate in shape, taper and shear; better, in fact, than the earlier Hood or Bismarck units of the series. There is even a degaussing cable! The separate single piece main deck is also well done with tiny hatches, vents, bitts, a breakwater, ground tackle...even paravanes. Torpedo launchers are molded integrally with the deck, but in this small scale they look good. My only gripe with the deck is the total lack of planking detail, which is strange considering that the earlier Hood and Bismarck kits in the series had excellent planking. Even stranger is that planking is present on some of the superstructure decks! Fortunately all this is not that visible once painted. Other odd design choices are evident with the armament. The main turrets are good, but the 105mm antiaircraft guns are just ok, resembling scaled down versions of those found on Revell's 1/570 Bismarck/Tirpitz. What is baffling is that the same 105mm mounts on their previously issued 1/1200 Bismarck kit were outstanding... why didn't Airfix simply reuse those? The same with the 37mm twins: outstanding on the Bismarck, mediocre on the Prinz Eugen. Go figure. Other parts are good to excellent. Masts, cranes, searchlights, and boats are good (although there should be more boats), as are the spherical hooded 4m antiaircraft directors. The delicately rendered10.5m rangefinders atop the superstructures are excellent, and the Arado 196 floatplane, poorly done on the Bismarck kit, is outstanding with accurate shape, floats and, amazingly, visible aileron and elevator detail!
Even with some less than stellar design choices with the decks and armament, Airfix's little Prinz Eugen builds into an appealing, accurate rendition of that most graceful ship.
(TR) Review dated 8 June 2007.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out
Series 6, pre-1962; No of parts: 131; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy/ok.
FAIR. The only injection-molded model of this ship we're likely to see, so you have to work with it. Fortunately, you don't have to take it too far. The shapes look very good to me (and the assembled hull looks positively huge), and there are no solid lifelines to remove. Ship is in later configuration with stabilizer fins. Most of the windows on the superstructure are represented by simple raised squares; sand them off and make decals instead. The davits do not line up properly with the promenade windows, so fill the locator holes and place them manually (boats should hang above prom deck window sections, with davits mounted in between window sections). The boats look marvelous and are molded as open boats - consider making resin copies for your Revell Queen Mary. (Indeed, one is tempted to build a forced-perspective diorama featuring the 1/600 Queen Elizabeth and the 1/568 Queen Mary!) Throw away the kit decals, especially on the 2000 re-issue; the typeface for the name on the bow is way off. Not a bad kit by any means, and looks easy to improve. (JMP)
Series 6, 1969; No of parts: 145; Decals included. Detail: low/medium -Appearance: ok. Participiated in the Falkland war. The model represents the ship in her original appearance, with the white funnel and without the later additions on Signal Deck. (LS)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) I thought that the detail was actually pretty good on this kit. The problem is fit. There are many small, but annoying gaps that must be filled. The two hull halves do not align well. It's not that hard to correct, but I've seen better. Still, it looks like this will be a very impressive model when completed. (DRW)
Editor's Note: New mold, 2004. Said to have 239 parts.
Series 6, 1978.
Series 6, 1982?; No of parts: 147; Guns elevate: yes; Camouflage scheme. Detail: high - Appearance: very good.
EXCELLENT!! Portrays the ship in her final configuration. A real beauty. Wonderfully detailed. I did not have the fit problems that Leif had. This is arguably Airfix's best ship kit ever. Now all we need is a Renown to go with her... (differences in the hull bulges make it nearly impossible to convert this kit into a Renown) (DRW)
GOOD. Well, it's not perfect but almost. There are minor fitting problems with the deck and some of the scuttles on the superstructure are missing, but otherwise it is just wonderful. The detailing of the side armour can't be described, it has to be seen. And the deck has even the deck camber curvature! The model and camouflage represents Repulse as she was when she sunk Dec 1941. (LS)
EXCELLENT. Really an excellent kit. If all Airfix kits were of this level of quality, I'd agree with David and go all 1/600. (AP)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Series 1, Historical Ships
Editor's Note: Presumably Drake's 1588 flagship. Said to be 17 inches long.
Series 8 : Classic Historical Ships (approx 1964-65)
Series 2, 1970; No of parts: 79; Guns elevate: yes; Decals included.
Detail: low/medium - Appearance: clumsy.
OK Terrible superstructure. The deck houses including the platforms are in two parts, the boundary goes right in the middle of the platforms. Clumsy masts. Guide to detailing in Airfix magazine May 1976. (LS)
OK/FAIR. The ASROC launcher is bogus, assembled as if it was two layers of tubes instead of boxes. Put plastic card on top and sides to represent box shape; etch the cell divisions. (Or steal an ASROC from a scrapped Aurora BAINBRIDGE).
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
OK. This kit was so close to being good. The SPG-51C/D antennas distract. The SPG-51C/D antennas are wrong. I know it is only 1/600 scale, but there is room to improve as the antennas are just round disc. The SPS-52C 3D antenna is incorrect as is the SPS 38 or SPS 40 (depending which time frame is chosen). As mentioned the ASROC pepperbox is awful. The rest of the ship is not bad.
Possible variants:
The ship is missing all it's Whip antennas. This may seem trivia, but think. First there are the easiest things to add to almost any kit. Second, they are pretty easy to research and last; when you see a picture of any ship you can't help but notice all the antennas everywhere!
No SLQ-32 V2 antennas (or V3, only installed on three US ships).
I believe GGM makes a SPS-52C. If not a 1/700 SPS-48E might work, just be sure to make a correct IFF Dipole. Can Be display with Revell 1/542 carriers, just do not put if too close (RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
FAIR I'm a bit more forgiving of the deck houses than Leif is. It's only a minor nuissance. I do like the hull. Bilge keels are nicely molded in. The separate propeller guards look nice. If you're looking to do conversions, the hull's got the later bow-mounted SQS-23 sonar dome (as opposed to the earlier keel mounted style) That's fine for the Rommel, or the other Bundesmarine Adams class, but if you're going to try to convert it to a USN Adams class, then you'll have to either do DDG-20 through 24, or perform some major surgery on the bow. Brooks is right about the ASROC launcher. I missed that one! The ASROC launcher in the kit looks like eight individual tubes rather than a segmented box. As Randy points out above, this kit has lots of conversion potential. (DRW)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (approx 1964-65)
Editor's Note: portrays the 1635-1696 Royal Sovereign, possibly as she appeared in 1637. (DRW)
Series 1, Historical Ships
FAIR. This miniscule Santa Maria molding originated as a Gowland Shipyard "Ships in Bottles" release in 1952; it was among the first injection molded plastic model ships ever marketed. Airfix also issued it in 1954 (without the bottle) as the second unit of their Series 1 "Historical Ship" kits. The initial Airfix release was a direct copy of the Gowland kit, the waterline model molded in white with a small molded plastic sea base and separate shrouds/ratlines printed on a piece of clear acetate. It was issued again by Addar as one of their "Super Scenes" in a bottle in 1973. In the early 1970s Airfix also reissued the kit, this time reworked with a full hull and stand replacing the sea base and acetate ratlines. This revised version was produced in the 1990s by Heller (kit 79705, in brown plastic) as well. Out of production as of 2009, the kit can still be found fairly easily on online auctions and at model swap meets.
Columbus' Santa Maria (Holy Mary) is one of the world's most famous ships, but her exact appearance remains a matter of conjecture and debate. Some experts believe the Mariagalante ("Party-Girl Mary", the ship's original name before Columbus changed it more the politically correct Santa Maria) was a Portuguese style nao, others that it was a carabela (caravel). Gowland seems to have based their model on Julio Guillén Y Tato's 1927 Santa Maria reconstruction built in Cadiz as a carabela de armada (armed caravel). The model's hull shape matches that reconstruction fairly well.
For a kit this old and this small, the little Santa Maria is not bad. The full hull is split down the keel, with heavy but surprisingly believable plank/strake detail. The separate one-piece deck has delicate raised plank markings, stairs, and a hatch. The hull and deck are simplified, but the details present are well rendered and the unit is so tiny that the effect is good. Unfortunately, everything above the deck is out of scale. The mainmast, for example, is some 25 scale feet too high. The too tall, too thick masts support massive wind-filled sails that overpower the little hull. The flags printed on a separate sheet of paper are also too large. Still, the whole thing goes together in just a few minutes or, if you want to do some scratchbuilding, the hull/deck could be a good basis for a more detailed build of Columbus' humble flagship. Plus, the less than three inch long hull scales out to about 1/350... so you can display it with your Tamiya and Trumpeter battleships!
(TR) Review dated 9 June 2006, updated March 2009.
Series 4, 1964-65; No of parts: 159; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
Detail: medium Appearance: good. Guns elevate: Yes.
GOOD. If you want an early (pre-Atlantic bow) Scharnhorst, this is the one. Kit dates back to about 1963. (DRW)
This is Scharnhorst as built, not in WW2 shape. I bought a new one three years ago and converted it to Gneisenau-1939. The kit was in the same good shape as my first in 1965 or 1966. The bilge keel is missing like in most old Airfix kits. (LS)
FAIR. I have two of these and in both cases I was not particularly pleased. My problem probably stems from my earlier exposure to the Airfix Repulse, Narvik and Prinz Eugen models. The last being my stimulus for purchasing the Scharnhorst. I expected this model to have all the excellent products (gun mounts) of the previous two German models. That of course was not the case. So lets start there.
All the secondary and AA gun calibers are way below Airfix standards. How this happened has to be a mystery. On the other hand the main guns are very nice. A little void of detail but nice depending on the source, maybe even better than the Revell kit. The 4.1in guns, while disappointing are still a little better that the Revell kit for sure.
The 01 level seems to have an excessive amount of overhang. From the photos I have seen, this feature seems to be exaggerated. The deck engraving here seems a bit crude as well.
The entire superstructure seems to have suffered the exact same fate during development at that of the Graf Spee. It seems squat and out of proportion to the rest of the ship. The Scharnhorst class was a sleek and beautiful design, this is not evident in this kit the, to the degree of the Revell model.
Over all the kit may actually fall into the poor category with the Bismarck.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 1, Historical Ships
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1973)
Series 3, 1964-65; 1 aircraft included; No of parts: 128; Guns elevate: yes.
Detail: low/medium - Appearance: ok.
GOOD. Not the most detailed thing I've ever seen, but essentially right.
There's a good article on building and converting this kit in the June 1978 issue of Airfix Magazine, pg 554. (DRW)
OK. Portrays the cruiser after her 1935 conversion. (LS)
Editor's Note: Re-issued by:
Series 1, 1977; Clip together kit for wargaming.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 3, pre-1962; No of parts: 74; Guns elevate: no; Decals included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
GOOD I like this one. It's pretty good for its day. It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination, but the basics are all there.
The kit portrays the ship as built, before her helicopter conversion.
The bilge keels are missing, as are two of the four propellers. Superstructure levels are molded into the decks below them, which can make painting difficult. Lattice masts are not that great, (photo-etch would be better) but OK for their day. 6 inch and 3 inch guns look nice.
This ship also has some excellent modification potential. Airfix Magazine's March 1978 issue has a good article on conversions. The hull is perfect for making Fiji-class (AKA Colony-class) cruisers. Guns and many superstructure parts can be obtained from an Airfix Belfast.(DRW)
Like the H.M.S. Daring. This is a model of Tiger before the 1968-72 conversion. Lines of rafts included. (LS)
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2010.
Series 4, 1967; No of parts: 170+2; Guns elevate: yes; 1 aircraft included.
Detail: low - Appearance: bad.
POOR. This is the Bismarck model with two torpedo-tubes added, no other changes. (LS)
Series 1, 1974.
Editor's Note: I've only seen it in pictures, but it must be REALLY tiny in 1/1200! At least sometimes, packages came with two ships. (DRW)
GOOD. Series 1, 1974. This was one of Airfix's 1/1200 "Naval History Series" clip-together ships intended for wargaming. Issued as a pair, each Tribal consists of 20 cleanly molded gray plastic parts. They scale perfectly at 1/1200, and these things are tiny: their hulls measure a mere 3.75 inches in length!
As with others in the series, the waterlined hull is a single part with a solid bottom and separate single-piece main deck. The hullform and dimensions are accurate, but the ship rides about 1/16 inch (12 scale feet) too high. There is even part of the undercut below the stern, as if the pattern maker had begun to produce a full hull model and then abandoned the effort part way through. This odd choice by Airfix could actually be a plus since it allows for partial exposure of the lower hull if you want to put the model in a rough scale sea, but for calmer conditions you have to sand off the bottom 1/16 inch. Otherwise things look good. There are simplifications one would expect in this scale (such as the molded to the deck torpedo tubes and solid open bridge), but there are no basic accuracy problems. Surface detailing is delicate and restrained. The four 4.7 inch gun mounts aren't bad, and the miniscule ship's boats (the smallest is 1/8 inch long!) are excellent.
This is a nice little kit, and one of the very few injection plastic destroyers ever issued in this scale.
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Series 5, 1972
Pre-1962, series 4; No of parts: 94; Guns elevate: no; Decals included; 14 aircraft included.
Detail: low - Appearance: slightly clumsy.
The first big Airfix ship. The kit is sound, but low in detail. Needs a lot of detailing to look good. The mast and the guns are clumsy. (LS)
FAIR/GOOD. Detail is decidedly lacking. No bilge keels. Good painting instructions would have helped. (DRW)
Series 1, Historical Ships
This kit is said to be about 22 inches long when complete. It is said to portray the ship in 1765.
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (approx 1967)
Series 4, 1963; No of parts: 135; Guns elevate: yes; 2 Swordfish aircraft included.
Detail: medium - Appearance: good.
FAIR. This kit represents the Warspite after her 1934-37 refit. The biggest problems are the bow, (kit has a bulb bow instead of a ram bow) and the quarterdeck. (wrong shape) Both can be corrected with some effort. Once again, there is the problem of the "flash suppressors" on the main guns. Sand them off. Superstructure is decent, gun turrets are nice, and the casemate 6" guns are fragile, but nice. (DRW)
A very good model for its time. No errors, just less deck details than later kits like KGV, Repulse & Belfast. (LS)
Series 9, Classic Historical Ships (1972) . Said to portray the ship in 1628.
OO/HO Armoured vehicles: (Series 3)
The polythene ready assembled is a low quality toy, but Airfix did make and still makes from what I know, a regular polystyrene kit version in 1/72, to go together with his tanks. I have one half built, it's not too bad, needs some filling etc. Includes a Sherman tank from the regular Airfix line. (PauloB)
OO/HO Attack Force - (Ready assembled polythene kits for wargamers)
Their web site is http://www.alanger.us (DRW)
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Akula", Russian code name "Shchuka-B". (DRW)
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Delta IV". (DRW)
Editor's Note: New release 2007
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Typhoon". (DRW)
The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 941 SSBNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Typhoon". Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project 941 SSBNs (Russian "Akula", NATO "Typhoon") should not be confused with the Project 971 SSNs. (Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO "Akula")
For comparison, check out these kits:
Albatross Ltd.
16622 Jib Circle, No. 2
Huntington Beach, CA 92649
They have no web site that we know of. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably a close relative of the Gearing, below. For comparison, check out the Skywave Sumner class. (1/700) (DRW)
GOOD. Not the very best I've ever seen, but reasonably good, and the price is right. Superstructure detail is a bit lacking, but the hull is pretty nice. Watch out for sink holes, though! The 40mm guns aren't that good, so I replaced them with parts from the Skywave WW2 USN parts set. Like its Skywave competitor, this kit give the builder the option of using either the second set of torpedo tubes aft, or a third 40mm quad mount. Unlike the Skywave kit, it gives the builder the option of building the "DDR" radar picket variant. (DRW)
GOOD. This is a very basic model, with very minimal detail. There are about 50 pieces in the kit, and the instructions are a one page blow up diagram. The instructions have some suggestions for ease of assembly. The kit does not include decals. The basic model is molded as a waterline hull, with the deckhouses and depth charge racks, molded in place. The superstructure and bulkheads have absolutely no detail to it, just a series of flat side moldings.
There are anchor chains molded in place, and the stern 20mm tub, but that's it. The builder must add the upper decks to the deckhouses, as well as the gun tubs. The dual 5" mounts aren't too bad, and the dual 40mm are also finely cast. But they're too tall. They stand too high on their pedestals. The tops of the guns are level with the midway point of the funnels. And the single 20mm are also too tall. Those stand just about as tall as the dual 5" mounts. It is recommended that they be shortened to be less conspicuous (or pilfer them from a Skywave set). The tripod mast amidship is cast very finely, as is the mainmast. But the main mast's radar was cast as a see-through piece, and in this scale, it's very difficult to make it realistic. In addition, while the 5" director base is OK, the radar screens are even taller than the 5" mount. Lastly, the torpedo mounts are cast pretty well, and one mount even has the 5" flash protector housing.
Overall it's not a bad kit, and could use some dressing up with a brass set. But it's nowhere near as detailed as the Skywave Gearing class destroyer. Looking at the hulls side by side, the freeboard on the Albatross hull looks better. On the Skywave hull, it's pretty shallow. Also, thesheer line on the Albatross hull is more pronounced, whereas that on the Skywave hull is more gentle. The Skywave hull is generally a flatter hull. (RD)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Skywave Gearing class. (1/700)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the MPC re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
From about 1977 to 1982, AMT was owned by Matchbox, and issued a few Matchbox kits under their own label.
Racing Champions (later RC2) bought AMT in 1999, and shut it down in 2006. After a confusing period of lease arrangements, Round 2 Corp. of South Bend, Indiana, bought AMT in late 2011.
Their old address in Michigan was:
AMT Corporation
1225 E. Maple
Troy, Michigan
Their later address (ERTL era) in Iowa was:
AMT/Ertl
Highways 136 & 20
Dyersville, Iowa 52040-0500
AMT plastic car models still show up in hobby shops, but they are manufactured in China. The current AMT Website: http://round2corp.com/product-category/amt/
Editor's Note: Reissue of Matchbox kit. (DRW)
GOOD. This is a reissue of the 1970s Matchbox kit of Exeter as she appeared during her famous encounter with the Graf Spee off the Rio de la Plata in 1939. Like its Matchbox predecessor, this kit is molded in two colors, a dark green and a light grey. Moldings are sharp with most detail raised. Unlike the Japanese waterline series kits of the era, the hull is split into right and left halves, with the decks and base plate separate. This arrangement unfortunately leaves a long, prominent seam where the main deck meets the hull. Worse, the thin, slender hull sides are vulnerable to warpage...which exactly what happened in my case! Once these challenges are addressed, though, the hull looks very good. Detail is decent with the multitude of portholes on the hull represented as tiny raised circles. The kit also captures the distinctive forward knuckle pretty well, a feature often missed. Superstructures, especially the aft superstructure and hangar, are a bit simplified and almost bereft of detail, but the open sides on the bridge are well represented. Small parts vary in quality. The anchors, secondary guns and masts are rather nice, but the crane, Walrus aircraft, floats, davits and boat mountings are mediocre to poor. I would also have preferred some depiction of planking on the main deck, which is completely smooth. Still and all, the kit assembles into a good representation of Exeter. Especially considering the limited selection of injection molded RN subjects in 1/700 scale, this is a very worthwhile kit.
(TR) Review dated 22 March 2007.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Matchbox kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I suspect that this is the old Otaki kit. Jodie Peeler confirms that it is the same as the Gunze-Sangyo kit. (DRW)
The Axxx serial numbers look like they are out of a catalogue, and do not represent the letter codes on the model boxes. The numerals are of course correct.
I don't understand why, on destroyers, the kit instructions mostly do not agree with the colour instructions...
Aoshima must have the lowest standard of quality control of any Japanese model firm. US importers should take this into account when pricing the kits! (GH)
I cannot agree more with the GH's comment above. The price-to-value ratio is just too high for most Aoshima kits. It seems only worth it, if the kit is the only one for a particular subject you are looking for. (RND)
FAIR/GOOD. Not the greatest things you've ever seen, but not the worst either. Includes Yak-38 VSTOL fighters and Ka-25 helos. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
FAIR: Another Unryu-class light carrier, Amagi was a quick-fix attempt to rebuild the Combined Fleet after the Battle of Midway disaster. Amagi was doomed to never saw combat, except on the receiving end of USN airpower. She was bombed during outfitting and rolled over during an aerial attack in late July 1945. Unlike the Pit-Road kit, Aoshima's kit is based on the older Unryu kit with minor modifications. Fine Molds has made a separate photo-etch set to enhance the details. (ASG)
Editor's Note: See Kagero-class. (DRW)
FAIR Like Nenohi, but light AA not so good - use spare triple light AA from Nenohi for this one! (GH)
Editor's Note: See also notes under Hatsuharu-class. (DRW)
FAIR Good hull and superstructure. Lots of flash, and some heavy and light AA guns were not fully formed. Discard twin 25mm. Trim main gun barrels and replace masts. Will make a good model. Fit is late war. (GH)
Editor's Note: See notes on Aoshima Takao-class, including a review by Bill Swan. (DRW)
POOR. Note there has been an announcement by Aoshima of a newly tooled Bismarck to replace the above kit sometime in April of 2008. The supposed stock number is #42595. It can't help but be better than this kit.
This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the red plastic waterline plate. The basic shape of the hull is OK and maybe the turrets but everything else is just awful. There is little to no molded in surface detail. The deck is divided into three ill fitting parts that left gaps in the main deck in two places that were very difficult to fix. The rest of the parts fit poorly and were either clunky or over scale or both. The AA battery and ship's boats are especially bad. Do yourself a favor and seek out just about anyone else's 1/700 Bismarck.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Tone-class. (DRW)
GOOD. Also released as the Chiyoda, this is one of Aoshima's best in 1/700 scale. The model depicts Chitose in her seaplane tender configuration before she was converted to a CVL in 1944. Above average for Aoshima, this kit is comparable to contemporary offerings by Hasegawa or even some of the less inspired Tamiya efforts. The hull shape is good, with convincingly replicated portholes and anti torpedo blisters on the sides. Decks have delicate linoleum retaining strips, ground tackle, and various other details accurately molded in. An interesting feature is alternate stern parts to depict either the as built standard stern or the special modified opening stern fitted to Chiyoda to deploy midget submarines. Chitose probably didn't have this modification, but the stern and a minisub are included anyway. These flush-decked ships had quite a bit going on topside with ventilators, boats, cranes, catapults, seaplanes, and assorted plane handling gear in evidence. All of this was fairly well designed with a minimum of seams and, rare for Aoshima, crisp molding with only a few sink marks! The foredeck and fantail are separate parts, but they fit fairly well so this doesn't create any problems. The bridge structure is especially good, with four well fitting levels and even a representation of windows. In addition to the ubiquitous (and useless) paper flags/bridge window slip included in most Waterline Series ships of the 1970s, the model comes with a waterslide decal of the large white bordered red hinomaru national marking to apply to the upper seaplane deck. Smaller parts are nothing special, but acceptable. Recent releases have contained Leviathan upgrade sets which include much improved weapons, aircraft, searchlights, boats and other parts which make this basically good kit even better. (You can spot the new issues by the ill-fitting box; Aoshima deepened the lower box to accomodate the extra sprues, but the original smaller boxtop is retained, leaving a gap at the bottom.)
I built my Chitose in the days before photoetch, but another worthwhile upgrade would be the Gold Medal Models photoetch IJN Auxiliary Ship set (700-27) which replaces many of the injection molded masts, cranes, catapults, and girders so prominent on this ship. This set, complementing the competently rendered basic kit parts, could make this a really standout model.
(TR) Review dated 13 April 2007.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Takao-class. (DRW)
FAIR: Light carrier converted from passenger liner Nitta Maru. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults. Primarily used to transport aircraft. Sister ship of Unyo & Taiyo. All three carriers of the class (conversion) were sunk by US subs. Chuyo ("High Seas Falcon") was lost on 4 December 1943 to USS Sailfish. (ASG)
Editor's Note: See also: Taiyo-class. (DRW)
OK. Nice hulland superstructure, nice coamings. Superstructure is undetailed, all AA guns are oversize and should be replaced by Leviathan sets. Main gun barrels need to be cleaned up. Light AA around bridge is wrong, should be two pairs each position not just one. Likewise, two twin AA needed extra aroundfunnels. Otherwise, model accurately represents Fuso in 1941. The box art shows the ship correctly, interestingly. (GH)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
Editor's Note: See Gernot Hassenpflug's reviews under Nenohi and Ariake. Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Hatsuharu-class. (DRW)
FAIR. Good basic hull, but lots of sink holes to repair. Deck good without raised painting lines. Coaming thin enough, but guns poor. Luckily 2 Leviathan sets provided to replace all small parts (AA guns, searchlights, boats etc). 16 aircraft provided. (GH)
FAIR. Overall shape and guns OK, octuple 2 pdr pompoms are trash. If you can afford to salvage them from a Revell ARK ROYAL, or from a waterline KING GEORGE V do so. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
FAIR. Basic hull and superstructure, leaving it to the modeler to add portholes/doors etc. Some sink holes, easily filled, and except for masts all parts are acceptable. Flash is also easily removed. (GH)
Editor's Notes: See also Gernot Hassenpflug's comments under Shiranui. Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Katori-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Katori-class. (DRW)
OK Nice hull and superstructure. Replace all small parts with Leviathan sets. Redo masts. Torpedo tubes are poor, as are all gun barrels. Kit represents ship late in war. (GH)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
(DRW)Editor's Note: See also: Unryu-class. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT (based on in-box review)
Note: this model is part of Aoshima's line of kits called 1/350 Ironclad. Sister ships Kuma and Nagara are also available in different fits.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit. Most parts are provided in medium gray plastic with clear parts for windows and a black sprue for the display base. A small sheet of photo etch is provided for jackstaffs and platform supports, no photo etch for cranes, catapults, rails or other details is provided. Like Hasegawa and Fujimi, Aoshima has gotten into the supplementary parts business and provides at extra cost photo etch sets to further detail this kit. In addition the kit also provides a flag sheet, poly caps for rotating guns, anchor chain and some metal screws to fix the finished model to a base.
All parts are clean and crisply molded with excellent surface detail. This too is a first rate kit that will please just about any modeler. The deck is broken into pieces that conform to the varied heights of the hull halves so joints should not be a problem. Painting will be more difficult than a Fujimi kit as much of the deck detail is molded on. Hull is divided into two halves and uses a bracing system with traverse bulkheads similar to those found in the Hasegawa and Fujimi kits with one critical difference. Provision has been made to waterline this vessel. Incised lines go across the hull pieces at the waterline allowing the modeler to easily cut the lower hull off. Hull detail is decent with an attempt being made to indicate plating, however the lines are continuous with no vertical joints indicated. Weapons, aircraft and equipment are nicely rendered and on a par with the newest issues. While there are, thankfully, no Aztec steps you will want to replace the provided plastic inclined stairs with photo etch. You may or may not be satisfied with the plastic catapult and crane. I thought they were just fine. I believe that most modelers will be more than happy to pick up some inclined ladders and railing in photo etch and skip the more expensive upgrades for this kit.
Directions: large format black and white exploded line drawings and photos of the completed model in a multi-page booklet with most text in Japanese. Color call outs appear to be for Creos Aqueous and Mr Color paints. The drawings appear to be clear and unambiguous, you won’t need the text. Painting instructions are provided by a huge, poster sized color rendition of the model.
Packaging: Colorful but thin cardboard box into which all the parts have been tightly fitted with a thin cardboard buffer for the PE and to keep the parts from shifting too much in the box. All parts are bagged so plastic rash is minimized. The system works very well and no parts were damaged in my kit. Excellent box top art is provided as well as photos on the sides of the completed model. All in all the exterior packaging is pleasing and makes you want to buy this kit (unlike the simply awful photos found on the exterior bottom of the recently released Zvezda Dreadnought).
Aoshima in the past produced many a dog of a kit, however, the new issues from this company show huge improvement in casting and attention to detail. These are world class kits. When it comes to the 1/350 series they can stand up to the best in the business.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
As to kit parts and quality please see my review of Aoshima #044209, Kinu. A sister ship, Tama, is available in a later war fit. While the kits are similar they are not identical by any means. The ships look somewhat alike. However, Kinu is part of the Nagara Class (consisting of Nagara, Kinu, Isuzu, Yura, Natori and Abukuma) and Kuma was the lead ship of a previous class of ships (consisting of Kuma, Kiso, Kitakami, Oi and Tama). The Nagaras had a greater displacement (5570 tons to 5100 tons) and they were about 10 meters longer and slightly wider than the Kumas. Layout and armament were very similar. These two classes of ships made up almost half of the IJN light cruiser fleet.
(WJS), review dated 9 December 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See Takao-class. (DRW)
OK. Some parts are off-scale. There are several inaccuracies, flash & sink-marks. Make sure that you dry fit ALL parts before glueing. Some scratch building is needed to make a presentable model. Landing deck has raised parts to aid painting -- these should be preferably sanded down. Make a note of the patterns (they are correct), and then sand away -- mask to reproduce the patterns. (RND)
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kiev-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Nagato-class. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: New mold in production 1999. This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR For an Aoshima kit, very commendable. Hull has a detailed deck, but portholes have to be drilled yourself. Bridge detail is also lacking, but all coamings are acceptably thin. Triple light AA is good, but the twins which the kit requires are poor. Keep triples for spares. Masts too thick, and most parts have a lot of (easily removable) flash. Makes a good model. (GH)
Editor's Note: See also notes under Hatsuharu-class. (DRW)
POOR. This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the included waterline plate. There is no photo etch included. This kit is just awful. The shape of the hull is wrong, the deck detail is poor. The assembly process leaves a gap in the deck from the poorly fitted bow piece. The 20 mm guns are so hugely out of scale that they look like Roman shields with spears sticking out of the middle. There is practically no surface detail on the gun turrets and superstructure parts, the main battery turrets are the wrong shape. The cranes and catapults are solid castings with little detail. I could go on and on but won’t. The only thing going for this kit is that it is cheap. A summary in two words: stay away.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out:
FAIR Basic hull and bridge, portholes need drilling, deck is good though. Some flash to be removed. Light AA poor, gunhouses basic but look accurate. (GH)
Editor's Note: See Kagero-class. (DRW)
FAIR. Good basic hull, less sink holes than Hiryu, deck has raised painting detail though but very nice detail. Thin coamings, poor small parts but 2 Leviathan sets remedy this. 16 aircraft supplied. (GH)
Editor's Note: The kit has been re-issued by Minicraft. The re-issue was reviewed by Tim Reynaga. (DRW)
OK Hull fine, but fittings look clumsy. Coamings too thick, AA guns reasonable, but main guns need work to make them look realistic. Boats are best covered! Raised detail on flight deck in place of decals is not a successful idea either. Time to retool or upgrade this one. Lots of putty needed on the upper hull and deck, fit is rather poor, and there are unfortunately sink holes in awkward places on main parts. Do yourself a favour and acquire references before building this one; it doesn't match up to pictures of the reputedly same ship I have seen. Deck is also too thick. (GH)
FAIR. Light carrier converted from passenger liner Kasuga Maru. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults. Primarily used to transport aircraft. Sister ship of Chuyo & Unyo. All three carriers of the class (conversion) were sunk by US subs. Taiyo ("Greater Falcon") was lost on 18 August 1944 to USS Rasher. (ASG)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
(DRW)
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2008.
FAIR/POOR.
Note: this is the very first issue of the Takao by Aoshima and has it's roots in the late 1960s or early 1970s so the molding of the parts reflects that time period. A very well detailed new tooling of this kit has been released by Aoshima as kit # 28506. Please also see Skywave kit # W-054 of the 1942 Takao.
This is an all plastic kit. Surface detail is extremely limited with much of the forward superstructure simply flat and devoid of detail. The hull has port holes and shallow cut outs for the torpedo battery molded in but not deep enough for the actual torpedo launchers which weren't in my kit anyway. The deck has some molded on surface detail (the strips between the linoleum sheets) and some deck hardware. All of this detail is a bit on the heavy side. There was also quite a bit of flash on my example that was hard to remove without damaging the parts. Aircraft were poor. Ships boats are poor (perhaps ridiculous would be a better appraisal) , AA is grossly over scale and the main battery turrets are poorly represented with either a lack of detail or that present being grossly over scale including the gun barrels themselves. Catapults and crane are oversimplified. The worst part was that the fit of the parts was poor with major gaps in the superstructure and a mislocation of the third turret which caused the guns to run into the forward superstructure. You could fix some of the problems by replacing the AA battery and getting a PE set for the crane and catapults but you will still be stuck with the over scale details or lack thereof on the superstructure and of course those awful boats.
These kits pop up on eBay all the time and they are certainly cheap. I would advise the modeler to stay away from them and pony up the greater amount of cash for the new Aoshima kit or the Skywave kit and you will have a lot better model.
(WJS), review dated 14 April 2008.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Akizuki-class. (DRW)
POOR. Let's start with what's right: Hull looks fine, as do main turrets and barrels. Also secondary turrets. No flash. all other gun barrels poor, 4.1" mountings wrong, light AA wrong. The model does not represent Tirpitz as at any point in her career, possibly the model is based on plans, since there are no torpedo tubes fitted, and 20mm singles in strange positions.(GH)
POOR. Note: Aoshima has released a newly tooled version of the Tirpitz depicting him in 1944 while twinned with a Z class destroyer (former Skywave mold). The stock number on that kit is #33631. The old kit has been renumbered #7103 and should be avoided in favor of the new one.
This is an all plastic kit molded in medium gray except for the red plastic waterline plate. The basic shape of the hull is OK and maybe the turrets but everything else is just awful. There is little to no molded in surface detail. The deck is divided into three ill fitting parts that left gaps in the main deck in two places that were very difficult to fix. The rest of the parts fit poorly and were either clunky or over scale or both. The AA battery and ship's boats are especially bad. There was a very small effort taken to differentiate this kit from the Bismarck kit but not much, almost all the parts in this kit are shared with the Bismarck kit. Do yourself a favor and seek out just about anyone else's 1/700 Tirpitz.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: See also Aoshima Bismarck, which is presumably a close relative. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
OK/POOR Comments as for Taiyo. Lots of sink holes in hull, funnels. Moldings look crude, many parts look rough and some are only partly formed. Most smaller parts are uselessly oversize, deck is too thick and has raised painting detail. 16 aircraft provided. Newer issues no doubt come with the Leviathan sets. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR: Light carrier converted from passenger liner Yawata Maru. Kit comes with standard tree of IJN aircraft although she was not fitted out with arresting gear or catapults. Primarily used to transport aircraft. Sister ship of Chuyo & Taiyo. All three carriers of the class (conversion) were sunk by US subs. Unyo ("Cloud Falcon") was lost on 16 September 1944 to USS Barb. (ASG)
Editor's Note: See also: Taiyo-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Illustrious-class. (DRW)
POOR. Note: the contents of this kit are identical to those found in the North Carolina kit and my remarks in that review pertain here. A feeble attempt at differentiating the members of the class was attempted by the omission of a deck on the superstructure. I repeat my advice for the North Carolina kit: stay away.
(WJS), review dated 15 April 2008.
Editor's Note: See North Carolina-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Fuso-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Kagero-class. (DRW)
Note that the ferry SUNFLOWER is a further exception, since it is in 1/500. (Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
Same kit as Vella Gulf.
See Nimitz Class, below.
Editor's Note: From pictures, it looks like the Enterprise after her 1979-82 refit.
See Spruance Class, below.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued at various times as:
Editor's Note: See Forrestal Class, above.
Editor's Notes: See Geoffry Woods' review under Wisconsin.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
See Nimitz Class, below.
See Spruance Class, below.
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review) If you want an angle-deck Midway class, this is the only one available. I've seen worse. Better below the waterline than the old Revell kit....(DRW)
Editor's Note: See Iowa Class, above.
Same kit as Vella Gulf.
Presumably the same kit as the Yamato. Unknown whether the instructions account for the differences between the ships. (DRW)
Scale is not a typographical error. On box is printed "1/1600 Authentic Scale Model Kit", number 2 of "Japan Battle Ship Series". But, with a length of just over 5.5 inches, scale of kit is closer to 1/1880. Can be built waterline or full hull. Lower hull molded in red plastic, rest of kit gray plastic. Instructions (as most of box art) are in Japanese, printed on inside of box lid. Estimate kit examined manufactured 1970s/80s.
POOR. Kit roughly represents the ship's unique fantail and "step" of forward deck, making it easily recognizable as Yamato class battleship. But lack of bulbous bow, rudders and screws, and incorrect shape of hull, turrets and superstructure are disappointing. Kit does not even hint at distinctive bow flare. Curiously, the sprue contains a forth, unused, main turret.
(MDS), review dated 19 December 2003
Scale is not a typographical error. On box is printed "1/1600 Authentic Scale Model Kit", number 3 of "Japan Battle Ship Series". Single funnel indicates model meant to represent Nagato as reconstructed and lengthened in 1933. At 5 and 3/8 inches, kit scale is roughly 1/1635. Can be built waterline or full hull. Lower hull molded in red plastic, rest of kit gray plastic. Instructions (as most of box art) are in Japanese, printed on inside of box lid. Estimate kit examined manufactured 1970s/80s.
POOR. Hull lacks bulges, rudder and screws. Main turret shape incorrect, with gun barrels spaced too far apart and too long. Secondary armament represented as turrets molded onto deck, vice casemated. Pagoda tower molded too large. Rest of superstructure and deck only approximate in shape and proportion. No bow flare. (MDS), review dated 19 December 2003
Editor's Note: See Iowa Class, above.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Otaki Nimitz. Arii has issued this kit at various times as:
Editor's Note: See Spruance Class, below.
Editor's Note: See Forrestal Class, above.
Editor's Note: See Spruance Class, below.
See Nimitz Class, above.
Editor's Note: See Forrestal Class, above.
GOOD. I built the John Rodgers kit. The SQS-53 sonar dome is a bit off, (can be fixed with a suitable application of putty) and some details aren't as nice as those on the SkyWave, (such as the beveled joints on the Skywave superstructure. Much easier to paint) but it's much cheaper, has a full hull option, and they throw in a Pegasus PHM and some landing craft for free. 5 inch and Phalanx guns are nicer than Skywave's. On the down side, the diagonal supports for one of the yardarms on the main mast are solid, (i.e. solid plastic between the diagonal and the yardarm, like very thick flash) and need to be hollowed out. The separately molded bilge keels are difficult to attach to the lower hull. The instructions give the impression that they're not supposed to be curved. I was not particularly impressed with the decals. The kit includes VLS launchers for updated Spruance class, although parts for the wider hangar that is characteristic of the refitted Spruances are not included. The Mk 26 launchers for Kidd class are included, but the associated radars are not. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Very detailed. Good fit on the parts. A few extra details and some PE brass can make this museum-level. As a bonus a Pegasus PHM, an LCAC and some small boats and landing craft are included. A few extra details and some PE brass can make this museum-level quality. Note: while most of the ship is in it's current condition, the hangar is too narrow, as built, instead of the widened hangar all Spruances were given.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Japanese inter-island overnight ferry, in service 1971. Large stylized rising sun in red, on white hull. About 13000 grt. Motorized kit, twin screws. Single funnel. Other than the vehicle ramps, reminiscent of Ro-Ro transports, on either side forward of the bridge, and right aft, could be a typical small cruise liner. One piece hull, with nice finely detailed archwork aft, but somewhat spoiled by heavy paint guide moldings for the rising sun decor - would have been far better as decals. Inset bridge windows. Nice deck detail 'fiddly bits'. Includes a tractor trailer and a tour bus - though there is no real place to portray these, as you cannot see into the vehicle deck! Model probably dates from the 80s but I can't find a copyright date.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Notes:
This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. Excellent model, very detailed. A few extra details and some PE brass can make this museum-level quality. For some reason a Pegasus PHM, an LCAC and some small boats and landing craft are included. As this is the only late model Ticonderoga ship available, it would be nice if they included decals for more than one ship. (JP)
See Nimitz Class, above.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Iowa Class, above.
OK. A decent kit for beginners; relatively easy to assemble despite the mostly Japanese instructions. By my calculations it is closer to 1/532 than to 1/600. Finished, it is about 20" long. Designed to be motorized, so the hull is rather lacking in detail and incorrect below the waterline to accommodate the propeller. Comes with the propeller and shaft housing and two plastic "bulkheads" (I guess for the batteries), but no engine.
The 5"/38 guns are simplistic. I've seen better. Might look better with replacement parts. The Phalanx CIWS seem a bit too large, are decent, if undetailed. Much easier to work with than most of the 1/700 variety. The real problem with the kit is the total omission of details. For example, the Harpoon launchers abeam the aft funnel. Scratchbuilding would seem to be the answer, but upon recent inspection, I'm not sure there is enough room provided. The mold of the superstructure seems to short for that. Also excluded are the SATCOM dishes, helicopter control booth, Nixie torpedo decoy doors at the stern, and the anchors! The 01 and 02 levels are molded as one piece, so fixing some errors would be difficult. The most glaring error is the ECM housing on the foremast. It is actually in the configuration for the New Jersey. The distinctive streamlined fairing of the other three ships is omitted, and needs to be corrected. This requires scratchbuilding, as no conversion kit is available to my knowledge.
The 16" guns elevate and the turrets turn, and are fairly well detailed, but (at least in mine) Turret Two is too close to the forward edge of the conning tower. In order to get the turret to turn without catching is to carefully shave and sand the face of the conning tower. If carefully done, the sanding doesn't affect the model much, and it solves the turret problem.
The tripod mast is pretty good, though it could use some PE radars and details.
The instructions are easy to follow, even in Japanese, except that the drawings seem to tell you to install the SLQ-32 ECM antennas facing in the wrong direction. They need to have the angled faces out, not inwards as instructed. This doesn't complicate matters though.
The four Mk 37 directors are pretty good, but the Mk 25 radar dishes atop them are a bit clunky, and would probably be better with replacement parts. The Tomahawk box launchers are simplistic. If nice 1/600 resin parts exist, they'd be better.
The oil refueling derrick starboard aft is good, if undetailed. There is one part included next to it that I can't find in photos of the ship. I suspect that it may be part of the motor assembly for the model.
Among other details missing are a catwalk on the aft side of the second funnel, a boom type crane for boats opposite the oil derrick, and the yardarms for the second funnel are too fragile and should be replaced. Some are easy to fix, 1/700 SATCOM dishes from a Skywave Equipment Set III fill in nicely on this model; a gunfire control radome from a Minicraft Spruance model fits in well as a MARISAT dome carried between the aft CIWS pair, and with some scratchbuilding, a 1/4inch wooden craft ball can stand in for the RPV control domes.
Overall, not a terrible kit, but lacking in so much detail that some serious refitting is necessary to make it accurate. I think it makes a good summer project.(GW)
GOOD. I liked this one. The main deck is in one piece, and appropriately bent. The planking is fairly subtle, though it is implemented with raised lines. The hull is also in one piece, and seems to follow the ideosyncratic hull form of the Yamato class quite nicely. Masts and radars seem appropriately delicate, though you might be able to do better with photo-etch.
The kit is designed to be motorized, and there is a large gouge taken out of the stern to make room for a large, central propeller. Fill that and the shaft hole, and you could have a winner on your hands. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit turned out to be better than I expected, in fact, the details of the afterdeck aircraft-handling equipment were better than the 1/450 scale Hasegawa Yamato. Model was sold as powered model, but electric motor was missing from my kit. Not a problem to me, as I wanted a display model anyway, but could be a disappointment to someone planning to build a powered version.
As an optionally-powered kit, it needs some revision on the hull: center shaft hole plugged, and rudder rebuilt and repositioned to represent real installation.
Float planes in kit especially impressive, consisting of nine parts each!
This kit looks great with PE and rigging.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
GOOD. Kit is well done. I expected details to be more accurate than in Tamiya or Fujimi 1/700 kits, but these seem comparable. Thus, I downrate this kit. From the other hand, another motorizable kit of comparable size (I mean, MiniHobby 30 cm) has far less details. Underwater part of the hull fits clearly, it is important if you consider motorization. Note that main guns have movable barrels, secondaries have not. Mast looks a bit heavy.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Same kit as Vella Gulf .
GOOD. Nice little kit. Contains two hulls - one full hull, and one cut by water line. Decals are included. Compared to Dragon's submarines kits, there are no planes, yet there is one painted on the box picture.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
Detail is NOT very sharp, crew is ugly, includes decals for D-Day (PA 26-28) and for French navy in Algeria 1953. (PauloB)
POOR. Armageddon models (AKA Mac) is a division of the French model company Mach 2, which specializes in short-run kits of obscure airplanes and tanks; I believe this kit was their first attempt at a nautical subject. It is a generally accurate representation of a WWII-era LCVP with four crew figures and markings for two boats. Unfortunately, the quality of the molding is very rough with soft, inconsistent detail and tons of flash. Parts fit poorly, and details are vague. The crew figures look awful. In short, although accurate in outline, this kit is a crude effort overall-and at US $35 retail it is very expensive. If it were the only kit available it might be worth it, but it has been overtaken by the far superior (and less costly) Airfix/Heller LCVP (kit 01321); even the Pegasus "E-Z Build" Higgins boat model/toy (7650) would be a better starting point for a 1/72 LCVP. The Armageddon kit can still be worked into a good model, but given the better alternatives now available I'd definitely pass this one by.
(TR), Review dated 18 January 2009.
They can be found at: l'Arsenalm (JP)
GOOD. Represents a very old Italian torpedo boat early in WW2. A complete kit of resin and brass photo etch. The hull moulding is very complicated and includes the bridge, both funnels and even the engine cowls. The masts are probably best rebuilt using brass wire and the AA guns replaced with PE. A simple kit suitable for a beginner which builds into an unusual model. (GS)
Two kits, one for each batch: F-781 to F-791, and F-792 to F-797.
GOOD. My L'Arsenal/Navires & Histoire kit of the French aircraft carrier Béarn arrived just on Christmas Eve - right in time to spend most of the Holiday Season with examining and dry-fitting. So here are my first comments:
The kit consits of some 80 injection molded plastic parts, some 70 resin parts, and some 100 PE parts. Besides the parts for the ship, there are also 11 aircraft (Four Dewoitine D-373, three Levaseur PL-101, three Levaseur PL-7) which are in fact small kits of their own, consisting each of 6 resin parts and PE parts for struts, undercarriage, propellors and hooks. Reportedly, the first 300 kits also have 2 additional L'Arsenal aircraft sets (five Loire Nieuport LN 40/41 and five Vought 156) as a bonus. The injection molded parts may look a bit crude, but they are at least of the same standard as Heller parts. However ,their fitting could be better. The resin parts and the PE frets apply to the quality standards of L'Arsenal.
The flight deck, which was planked, is plain, so I guess I will engrave the planking on my model. I will also add the armor belt to the hull, to give some more detailing. The platforms and catwalks are rather thick. But one can easily disguise this by cementing the PE railings to the front, rather than putting them on the top side. The portholes look a bit oversized. This can be helped by drilling them through with a slightly smaller diameter. A more serious problem is the after battery. The 155 mm "turrets" (in fact they are only shields) should sit on a small barbette, like those of the fore battery. You can supplement these missing parts with discs cut from plastic sheet. But you can not carve out the deck above this battery deeply enought to fit the guns. So you also have to raise this deck a bit, which requires some additional filling and sanding.
The great advantage of this kit is also responsible for its weak spot. You can build Béarn in different fittings, and this obviously resulted in some mix-up. The ventilation grills beneeth the island show the state of 1936. For the appearance before the 1934/35 refit, the fore section of these grills has to be filled and sanded over. The structure underneath the fore flight deck applies only for the appearance of 1930-34. After the 1934/35 refit, there was another enclosed deck hung beneeth the flight deck, as is clearly shown on the box top art. The bridge is correct for the 1927 and 1930 state. For the 1936 state, the upper bridge platform (PP 33) should be longer and broader.
After all these critics, you must not forget, that this kit is a first effort. And from this point of view it is pretty well done. Taking in account, that you would have to pay about 150% of its price for a 1/700 resin kit of a comparable aircraft carrier from HP (which would need most probably the same amount of corrections and working over), this kit also is a real bargain. So despite some drawbacks, I would regard this kit as pretty recommendable.
Since L'Arsenal has shown in the past that they are able to learn very quickly, you can be sure that their next kits will be greatly improved. (FP)
Vessels in class: Casabianca, Ajax, Fresnel, others.
FAIR/GOOD. See my comments for L'Arsenal kit 400 03. The kit depicts a good generic version of an early war long foc'sl corvette.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
FAIR/GOOD. The kit itself is very well cast with well thought out pour plugs and nice PE. The resin is a bit more brittle than most other resin kit makers use so a little extra care is needed with thin parts. The hull is cast in one piece which always leaves a few bubbles and a mold seam along the bottom. It took very little putty and sanding to correct, certainly less work than the average plastic kit hull seam. A few of the small parts had very small pinholes that were easily fixed with a dab of putty and a light sanding, again far less work than dealing with injected kit seams. The bridge is about 3/4 PE and the biggest problem with the kit is the English instructions are a bit lacking, I emailed Jacques at L'Arsenal and he was quite helpful with that area. The PE rails will be odd to many modellers, they do not have a spurnwater at the bottom so you must bend a tiny tab at the lower end of the stanchions 90 degrees and glue that to the deck. I made some minor modifications to my kit to reflect the corvette I chose to model, no two ships were identical but the L'Arsenal kit will easily build a large number of ships. The kit depicts a good generic late war long foc'sl corvette. As per my usual I replaced a few resin and PE parts with brass wire and rod to take the stress of monofilament rigging.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Mixed media model, plastic, resin and photoetch.
EXCELLENT. This is, to put it simply, an absolutely superb model kit! L'Arsenal's Liberty is very complete, well designed with flawless resin casting and a comprehensive photoetch fret. From the moment I opened the box it seemed that each part I examined impressed me more than the last. The first thing that meets the eye is the hull, which is made from a single hunk of grey resin. The shape is right on the money, and there is absolutely no casting distortion. Details are as fine as they are complete. I was especially impressed with the dozens of tiny supports on the insides of the gunwales, all perfectly cast (Trumpeter did these rather clumsily on their 1/350 Liberty, and Skywave omitted them entirely on their 1/700 scale version). Bilge keels are rendered so thinly you can see light through them--which of course means I promptly damaged mine ...doh! Excellent, sharp hatch covers, bollards; quite a bit of detail is packed directly on to that main hull casting, ready to go. The superstructure is an innovative mix of perfectly cast resin levels and photoetch decks which assemble simply to convincingly capture the boxy look of the original. The guntubs go together in the same way, and are just as effective. Smaller resin parts include 20mm guntubs, cargo mast bases, cargo kingposts, funnel, breakwater, engine room skylight, propeller, rudder, anchors, various capstans, ventilators, lifeboats, two types of liferafts, and weapons. All of these are mastered with impressive precision and, despite some very challenging shapes, are flawlessly cast. Cargo booms (one 50 ton, two 30 ton, and ten 5 ton) are turned brass pieces, very sharply done. Providing these in brass was a clever idea, eliminating the risk of their bending under the rigging to come later. The large photoetched brass fret contains a wealth of details, many of which assemble along with the resin components to make assemblies of great delicacy. Even the instructions are out of the ordinary, laying out the sometimes fairly complex assemblies simply and clearly. I have never been a big fan of resin kits, but this one is exceptional. If you want to do a 1/350 Liberty, this is without a doubt the best game in town!
(TR), Review dated 1 April 2007.
GOOD. The kit depicts a generic armed Liberty Ship and out of the box can be built to represent many of the class as built for the Maritime Commission. You will need to do some minor conversion work to build an accurate US Navy commissioned Liberty (easiest would be an AK type). Excellently cast small parts, very good PE. One piece hull casting that is heavy. The hull is well cast but suffers from two rather large pour plugs and a seam along the keel, luckily the hull is mostly flat bottomed. A little work with a razor saw took off the pour plugs and a bit of putty with sanding fixed the mold seam. The scuppers are flashed over with a very thin bit of resin you need to remove, casting them fully open would degrade the mold too quickly. There is very nice bracing detail inside the gunwales. All parts have very fine details cast in, the various winches and guns are works of art. All the small resin parts had easily removed pour plugs. The instructions are much better than for the 1/400 corvettes and I had no problem with the English translation. The forward gun platform, bridge and stern gun platform utilize a lot of PE for scale thickness decks. Pay very careful attention to the instructions and parts when building the masts, some parts are very similar but won't quite work on the wrong mast. Since the kit is a solid cast hull I saw no point in rigging the cargo booms for cargo handling and built my model with the booms stowed in their upper position, you could as easily build it with them in the lowered stowed position. Be aware, the instructions do not have a diagram for the very complex boom rigging.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Brings it up to 1990s appearance.
GOOD. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with photo etch brass and plastic stock included to finish the model. The hull and most of the superstructure is molded in a strange looking orange resin. The few supplementary parts are molded in yellow resin. The molding is cleanly cast and moderately detailed for this scale. Parts fit would seem to be good. There is some flash but not an extra-ordinary amount. A few parts will have to be removed from a rather thick wafer but there is not that many so the torture will be minor. The primary market for this kit being model railroaders, the emphasis is a bit different when it comes to detail wanted. It would appear to be capable of building up into a convincing model of a boat of its type. This type of vessel was in use in Europe from the early 1900s to the 1970s. Those of you thinking of having some type of wharf or harbor scene with your 1/96 or 1/100 sailing ships might be able to incorporate this ship in your diorama.
Directions:: this is an extremely simple kit so the supplied schematic is more than adequate to complete the model. Painting instructions are called out in Dutch, English and German. There is also included an extensive set of generalized directions for all kit making that is sort of like having Dad in the box, having everything from techniques to admonitions on safety.
Packaging: Sturdy brown cardboard box with a photograph of the completed kit on the box, useful for painting the model. Small parts in plastic bags, but the hull casting was loose in the box rattling like a kid's toy. Miraculously mine was unharmed.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Includes one (WWII) Jan Van Amstel class, one (Cold) Dokkum class, and one (Mod) Alkmaar class.
GENERAL COMMENTS: Atlantis Models is a relatively new manufacturer of model kits. It was founded in 2009 by Peter Vetri and Rick DelFavero, who previously ran megahobby.com. In 2018, they purchased several classic Revell, and Renwal ship molds in the bankruptcy of Hobbico.
Their address is:
Atlantis Toy and Hobby
435 Brook Avenue Unit 16
Deer Park, NY 11729
United States of America
Website: Atlantis Models
| Forrest Sherman | Gato | Iowa | Nautilus | North Carolina | Pittsburgh | Ticonderoga |
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Forrest Sherman-Class (DRW)
Editor's Note: Possibly a reissue of the Lindberg Gato. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Iowa-class.
Editor's Note: Possibly a reissue of the Lindberg Nautilus. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal North Carolina. (DRW)
Editor's Note: FAIR. Reissue of the Baltimore-Class (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Renwal Essex-Class SCB-125. (DRW)
Aurora had some foreign partners. They had a Canadian division in Rexdale, Ontario. Aurora was also associated with Playcraft Toys Ltd. in London, England. Apparently, Playcraft did their own manufacturing in England, using Aurora molds.
After Aurora went out of business, Monogram bought most of the molds, and they re-issue some of them from time to time, but some may have been lost/damaged in the infamous "train wreck".
Note: The "train wreck" is a semi-mythical event. Supposedly, in 1977, when the Aurora molds were being moved from New York to Illinois after Aurora's departure from the business, there was a train wreck, which supposedly damaged or destroyed some of the molds. Some say it's true. Some say it's not. Steven Iverson has a good explanation on his Aurora FAQ. (DRW)
The son or grandson of the owner owns many of the old molds, and is planning to rerelease them, cleaned up, and possibly upgraded. They will be released under the name Lost Aurora Plastics, last I heard. (JP)
Editor's Note: LAPCO seems to have vanished, as of early 2003. On the other hand, Playing Mantis seems to have bought the rights to the Aurora brand name, and they have been issuing some kits, including a Seaview. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Aurora Chinese Junk. Kit was issued around 1968. Possibly re-issued by Revell. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT; Good by even today's standards, Excellent for her era. Admittedly, by today's standards, AURORA's kit of ATLANTIS suffers from an overall lack of detail now available in kits, but the uniqueness of the subject, the detail that the kit does afford, and the relative ease that this kit lends to super-detailing, in my opinion far outweigh its liabilities. AURORA's kit of ATLANTIS is a classic, and whether you choose to build her, or simply admire this kit as a reminder of plastic modeling's infancy, this kit deserves an important place amongst the truly classic kits of all time. (JR)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1959. (DRW)
GOOD. For its day, it's fairly good below the waterline, but it's still a bit boxy. At least they tried to get the SQS-23 sonar dome and the propellers right. Above the waterline, it's fairly nice, although the molded-into-the-deck railings do detract. Kit dates back at least to 1964. (DRW)
POOR. I gave a lower rating because of the very heavy and difficult to remove railings and the general appearance of the hull and missiles. This kit only has a few, but very serious flaws. The hull shape is wrong like David noted. The aft superstructure is more to the originally completed configuration, prior to the installation of addition flag facilities. The missiles are out of scale, closer to 1/500 scale. I do not believe anything can be done to correct the lower hull except cut it off (I hate waterline kits but it seems the only right thing to do). The ASROC launcher is not bad, better than the one on the Airfix Rommel. The molded on railings are so horrible and I have tired to cut them off but the damage left is near impossible to cover, so I really have no useful suggestion. Last, it seems the whole model is small. The actual ship was over 565 feet long which should make the kit 11.3 inches in length. The knuckle abreast of the foreward Terrier launcher is missing. This kit is on the verge of hopeless, albeit, a individual that submitted to www.steelnavy.com fielded an excellent effort. I could hardly believe the picture was of the Aurora kit. So there is hope. Good luck.
If a later service time is sought, parts such as CIWS and SPS-48 antenna can come from a new issue Revell 1/542 carrier and GMM respectfully. The after flag and equipment spaces can be built simply with styrene. The platform for the SLQ-32 V3 will have to be added as well.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
FAIR. Like the Revell and Hawk kits, this kit represents a square-bridge Fletcher class destroyer with the late war anti-Kamikaze upgrade. It thus invites comparisons with those kits, despite the great differences in scale. The kit is 8.875 inches (22.5 cm) long, and thus scales out to about 1/509.
For some reason, this kit makes me think of the Renwal Coontz/Farragut class kit. Maybe it's the similar scale and boxy hull. I suppose they'd display well together.
Lots of things look kind of odd on this kit.
The bilge keels are missing, as are the propellers. There's a notch in the stern where the propellers should go, but it's not even close to the right size or shape. The only good news is that the plastic is thick enough to allow the modeller to make some adjustments.
Some good points:
This kit dates back to about 1957, so its faults are somewhat forgivable, but other companies were doing better things at the time, and in some ways, even Revell's 1954 1/305 Fletcher-class is better. Still, because it's a 1/500-ish scale full hull ship, I have a certain affection for it. Despite its many flaws, I'd like to see it re-issued. I wonder if Revell/Monogram still has the mold..... (DRW)
I concur with everything said in the detailed review. I would add that the bridge platform shapes don't look to be correct and perhaps appear to be postwar mods rather than part of the anti-Kamikaze fit.
(Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1962. (DRW)
Pro: For a 1962 kit,the level of deck and other details very close to Tamiya kits. Choice of waterline or full hull with a separate forecastle deck. Deck engraving is fine. Most parts have little to no flash clean-up or gaps.
Con: Very inaccurate kit. Hull,main guns, superstructure, funnel and platforms are all wrong. Upper and lower hull have gap issues near bow. Looks more like an early german battleship design proposal. (JosR)
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: A 2-master. Originally issued as the Buccaneer around 1958, in conjunction with the movie The Buccaneer. Kit 210 was a 1958 issue. Kit 765 was apparently the 1972 issue. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1957. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The kit was issued around 1967. It is said to be about two feet long when complete. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A 2-master. Kit was issued around 1959, in conjunction with the movie The Buccaneer. Later re-issued as Black Falcon. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1956. Also issued as "Armed Command Junk". Possibly re-issued by Revell. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1963. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Airwing is said to include 41 aircraft:
The kit has been re-issued by Monogram and Revell. (DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. This kit dates back to about 1960. It portrays CV-6 before World War II.
The assembled kit is about 16.25 inches (41 cm) long, so it scales out to be very close to the stated 1/600 scale. The beam at the waterline is about 1 9/16 inches (4 cm) and thus a little bit narrow.
By modern standards, this kit is not much. It is not very detailed. By 1960, other companies were putting out more detailed kits, so I regard it as a bit of a disappointment.
I was not impressed by the hull. As with most of the kit, detail is lacking. Most of the problems are below the waterline. The keel curves upward slightly toward the bow. In fact, the whole lower hull seems a bit "hogged". There are no bilge keels, and the bulb-bow is missing.) On the plus side, if you can correct the " hogging" the overall shape aren't too bad. The four propellers are reasonably good for their day. The hull is not as boxy as many kits from this era are. The hull is a little better above the waterline. It attempts to displays the correct flare below the hangar deck, but it may be slightly exaggerated. I think the stern needs to be a little pointier though.
The flight deck looks reasonably good. It does suffer a bit from raised detail for pre-war markings. Judging by eyeball, the elevators look a little overscale, and the center elevator isn't offset enough to starboard.
The guns are not terribly impressive. The 5 inchers are especially unimpressive. Each gun looks like a stick resting atop a cylinder. The 1.1 inch quads look a little better. The 50 caliber machine guns are molded into the deck, and look pretty bad.
Since I got mine in used condition, I'm not sure I have all of the aircraft. In fact, I have only one. It looks like an SBD, and of tolerable quality for the era.
This kit is fairly rare today. Unless you're really fanatical about 1/600 scale, it's probably best left to the kit collectors. It was sometimes sold with Yamato class BB. Together, they sell for hundreds of dollars on the collector market. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued in 1968, in conjunction with the movie "Dr. Doolittle". Pictures show a two master, with colorful sails. (DRW)
OK. Detail is lacking, the aircraft are awful, and there are some problems below the waterline, especially around the propellers. Aircraft include FJ Furies, F11F Tigers, F7U Cutlasses (with folded wings), and a few blobs of plastic that might be A-6s. On the plus side, the sponsons and 5 inch guns are decent, and the overall shape is OK. Kit was originally issued around 1956. The Monogram reissue from the late '70s has a much better aircraft set. Overall, the Revell 1/542 is better. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Portholes look nice! Engraved planking on the deck is a bit heavy, but very impressive for its day. (circa 1958) Bilge keels are missing. Main turrets seem to be a bit undersized. It looks better if you replace them with Revell 1/570s from a Scharnhorst/Gneisenau. The secondary (150 mm) and DP (105mm) guns aren't that great either. (DRW)
GOOD. Straight out of the box this kit is only ok, at best. The armor belt is rounded instead of squared which will be hard to fix. I have tried to figure a way to correct it without destroying the hull without success. The superstructure is lacking in detail, but is quite correctable especially with PE and some styrene. The general hull and deck on the other hand are very nicely shaped with proper spacing of the barbettes. More importantly, the stack, tower and superstructure are the right size.
The 11in, 5.9in and 4.1in AA guns are not good at all, but who cares, as David said, steal two turrets from a Revell Scharnhorst, then take eight 5.9 mounts from two Airfix Narvik DDs and three 4.1 AA guns from a Airfix Prinz Eugen, problem solved! The 2.2cm guns are not bad if you add PE shields.
I do not believe the first deck on the superstructure is suppose to be continuous. I have seen somewhere that there is a break about the area of the catapult. I am not 100% on this though.
The spotter plane needs to be replaced, but again just steal one! I am using one from a Revell Bismarck.
The main range finders are very bad. Steal the aft unit from a Revell Bismarck or Scharnhorst and apply a PE antenna screen. Attention needs to be given to the forward superstructure to increase accuracy especially around the flag bridge. Also note the stack, while correctly shaped is missing some small details, i.e. piping.
The ship's crane are complete junk and should be replaced by the crane from a Revell Bismarck.
This kit is ok straight out of the box, but by replacing the guns and crane with those from other kits and the kits becomes good. This kit can be used to make an early Adm. Scheer. Just rake the funnel cap, Clipper the bow and replace the armored tower with a pole mast and you will be heading in the right direction
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Airfix Graf Spee (1/600)
FAIR. The bow and stern are inaccurate, and the conning tower is too short, and the bulge under the missile tubes may or may not be missing, but there's no other Golf I kit out there. It CAN be fixed!! Kit dates back to about 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Even looks good below the waterline. Still no bilge keels, but it doesn't suffer from the boxiness that so many ship kits of this era do. They certainly give you enough helicopters! Kit dates back to about 1966. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. Detail is excellent for building a LPH as they appeared in the late 60's. (The only one of this class available in plastic) Straight out the box it is very accurate for the day. The 3"/50 mounts are a little thick but as there are no suitable replacements in this scale (Yet, that may change in the near future.) so they will have to do. (The ones from the Revell Midway class are worse) The hull is very nice. The shape and layout is quite accurate. The rudder is beautiful but I not sure about the screw. There is a conflict in information whether it is a four or three bladed screw. A small hangar deck is supplied which is way ahead of its time. Revell and Renwal never caught on to this. The molded on railings on the super structure distracts from an overall nice island. The helos are quite nice there are enough of them like David mentioned, but if a later dated version is required, replacements will probably have to come from WEM or maybe L' Arsenal. There is no netting around the flighjt deck to speak of. The bilge keels are missing as well. Detail is excellent for building a LPH. (The only one of this class available in plastic) Out of the box is very accurate for the day.
This kit could be used to build the Navy's MCC, Mine Countermeasure Control ship, USS Inchon, or later year LPH. There are plenty of kits to steal from and after market sources to acquire the necessary parts. The CIWSs can come from a Revell Forrestal. Antennas are available from Toms or GMM. The only problem may be the CH-53 Stallion Helos! WEM makes lots of small scale aircraft, so maybe they will come to the rescue. I have seen 1/542 scale resin CH-53s on ebay from a private vendor and tried to buy them but were never received.
For the CIWS you will need to build the forward sponson on the forward quarter. This will not be easy. I used a 3/4" (19mm) in plastic tube cut at an angle close to the shape of the hull and then sanded to fit. I am not sure if there is a 1/600 photo etch SPS-40 radar antenna out there, but you will need one bad. The main mast will need to be replaced.
You will need to build a lattice mast aft of the island or steal the one from a Revell 1/542 scale carrier.
The kit can be displayed with Revell 1/542 scale carriers, but not too close.
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
Fletcher class, modified to carry floatplane and catapult. However, kit comes with a Gearing/Sumner bridge superstructure! Really a strange kit. (RH)
Editor's Note: I've seen at least one reference suggest a hull length of 14.75 inches, which would indicate a scale of about 1/306. I've seen pictures of this kit, and it seems to have eight five inch guns in four twin mounts. It looks sort of like a "super Gearing". It was originally issued around 1956. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to be over two feet long when completed. It is said to be molded in four colors: black, white, grey and brown. It was originally issued around 1966. (DRW)
Editor's Note: After much discussion, we have determined that the length of the original I-19 was 356.5 feet. The model is 15.5 inches long, so we can calculate the scale at 1/276. 5 Jan 2022.
EXCELLENT. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. This is one of Aurora's best ship kits. Originally issued in 1969 at "box scale" 1/275, the 15.5 inch model can't really be reasonably displayed alongside the more common 1/350 scale ships, but it is still worthwhile on its own. The two part full-hull is split at the keel with a separate deck and bilge keels. Hull and conning tower shapes are accurate, details are fairly sharp. I especially liked the E14Y1 "Glen" seaplane with its separate pontoons and well rendered struts. The only quibbles I had with this kit were the short lengths of clunky molded deck rails on the hull and the inaccurate ribbed surface detail on the hangar-both easily fixed. Reissued by Monogram in 1979.
(TR) Review dated 19 April 2006, updated 5 January 2022
OK. Same kit as Forrestal.
FAIR. Had decals for all four of class. Aft underwater hull 'terraced' with propellor mounting sites, rather than correct shape. Bow seems a bit too narrow. Reasonable 40mm quads and deck detail, seemingly more in scale than the Revell.
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Editor's Note: This kit dates back to at least 1962. It has been issued as
OK. Two piece hull doesn't fit well. The ship is in late/postwar configuration with the athwartships catapult removed and a one level deckhouse built up, with boats mounted atop. Deck engraving fair to good. A grossly oversized external belt is molded into the hull. Twin 40mm are mounted where the octuple two-pounder pom poms and 40mm quads were mounted in wartime (and late war). Overall the superstructure's and turrets' scale appearance seems better than the Revell 1/570. Very nice cover painting. The very noticeable size difference between this and the Revell makes me wonder if either are both are out of their nominal scales.
(Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003.
Editor's Notes: Kit dates back to about 1959.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: See Iowa Class
GOOD. Comparable to, though different from the Airfix. (DRW)
POOR. This kit isn't much, but at least it's better than the competing Revell kit. I haven't seen the Lindberg kit, but I'm assuming from other reviews that it's better than that one too. Thus, I would say that the Aurora Nautilus is the best of the three 1950s-vintage injection molded polystyrene kits. It could be the starting point for a good model of the Nautilus, but you're going to have to work on it.
The kit dates back to 1953, which explains some of its inaccuracies. The real Nautilus was not completed until 1954.
It is the same kit as Aurora's Seawolf. Aurora used the same kit for two very different submarines, and it doesn't represent either one very well. It's a better Nautilus than a Seawolf, though. The sail and the bow much more closely resemble the Nautilus.
The hull measures about 15.8 inches (40.2 cm) long, and the kit thus scales out to almost exactly 1/250 scale.
The hull is substantially too wide. The real Nautilus has a beam of 27 feet 8 inches (about 8.43 meters) The kit's beam is about 1 11/16 inches (43 mm), but should be just a little over 1 5/16 inches. (33 mm) The excess width is most noticable at the stern. The tip of the stern is about 11/16 inch wide, whereas it should taper to nearly nothing, and thus requires serious surgery.
This is not as impossible as it might seem at first. Since the hull is in two pieces, split along the keel, it is possible to narrow the hull aft by removing material along the seam. The oval shape of the kit's cross section will become more circular, and thus more accurate, when you narrow it. Save the rudders if you can. While they are too tall, it is possible to cut them down into something relatively close. Cut about 3/16 inch (5 mm) off of the tip of each rudder, and you'll be tolerably close.
The limber holes are completely wrong. After 1956, the real Nautilus didn't have any, and before 1956, they were fewer in number and much more widely spaced. I filled kit's limber holes, (I used automotive glazing putty) and scribed a new free flood slot.
The sail is salvageable. It is about the right size, but requires some reshaping. It is a little wide, but can probably be narrowed with some work. It also needs to be moved about a quarter inch (6 mm) further forward. The scopes & antennae on the sail are laughably bad. They are oversized, and bloated. I recommend total replacement with scratchbuilt pieces.
The propellers are flat, 4-bladed things. If you can find 5-bladed replacements, I'd recommend replacing the kit's props.
The missile launcher and storage tank (parts added by Aurora around 1957) were not installed on either the Nautilus or the Seawolf, but they were used on several older subs, so they're not a complete fantasy. Just leave them off.
If you can find a copy of Ken Hart's article Correcting, Modifying and Detailing Aurora's USS Nautilus (Model Ship Builder magazine, #98, November/December 1995, pg. 55) I strongly recommend reading it. It will help enormously.
Special thanks to Tom Dougherty, for many photos & drawings, as well as much advice.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
FAIR. (based on in-box review of a partially built kit) This kit looks remarkably like a scaled down version of the Revell 1/535 kit. It has molded-into-the-deck 20mm guns, and many other features that are strongly reminiscent of the Revell. It even seems to be a "flat-bottom boat", in the unfortunate Revell tradition. (DRW)
And don't be fooled by the box cover that shows her in Vietnam fit. Inside it's the WWII version. (JP)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as the Iowa kit, reviewed by Brooks Rowlett. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The kit was issued circa 1963. Pictures on the net suggest that it is a 2-master. Also issued as just "Corsair". (DRW)
OK. Same kit as Forrestal.
FAIR/GOOD. The Aurora Seaview was originally issued in 1965, and it had the difficult fit and awkward details typical of the era. Molded in black and clear plastic parts, it depicted the fictional sub as it appeared in the 1961 movie. As a kid I liked the relatively small number of parts, the mass of raised panel lines (absent from the recent Polar Lights reissue) and the clear observation window/spotlight, but the fit was terrible! Apparently it was not entirely "accurate" either, with the flying sub access door the wrong shape, the hull forward the sail too short, different ballast vent patterns, etc., but what the hell...a model...of a model...of a fictional ship... it looked good to me! The Aurora kit is now rare and commands outrageous prices among collectors, but Polar Lights (the meaning of "Aurora"...get it?) issued a version of it in 2002. It appears to be a pantograph as they describe it as "a reproduction of the classic kit from the 1960s" on their website. Their version has lost the raised panel lines and has a smaller seafloor base, but appears to be otherwise identical to the Aurora original.
(TR) Review dated 19 April 2006
Editor's Note: The mold may have been lost in the train wreck. Examples of this kit sell for hundreds of dollars. On the other hand, in 2002, Polar Lights issued a Seaview kit. I don't know if the Polar Lights kit is a pantograph, or if it was made with the original mold. Stay tuned! (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1966. The box says that when built, the kit is over two feet long. Hull is said to be about 19 inches long. (DRW)
POOR. Same kit as Nautilus. Totally wrong for the Seawolf. It lacks the Seawolf's characteristic "stepped" sail and raised bow.(DRW)
GOOD. For its day, this is a remarkable kit. Apparently, the kit came out just shortly after the real sub! It's a quantum leap better than Aurora's Nautilus/Seawolf kit. While it does have its problems, most of the big ones are easy to fix. The scopes and antennae are a bit off, and there should be more blades on the propeller, (the kit has only three big blades instead of five smaller ones) and the profile of the nose is a little blunt, (can be sanded down a bit) but pretty darn good otherwise. The length and beam seem to be nicely proportional. Except for the tip of the bow, which should be pointier, the profile is quite nice. The sail should be moved about 1/4 inch (6mm) further forward, but that's almost trivially easy to do on this kit. The "reactor cover" aft is entirely misplaced, (as is the reactor below, so you might want to just leave the reactor out entirely) so just glue down the reactor cover and seal up the seam. I used Jim Christley's drawing on pg. 132 of Norman Friedman's "US Submarines Since 1945: An Illustrated Design History" (ISBN 1-55750-260-9) as a reference. If you can find a copy of Ken Hart's article on correcting this kit (SubCommittee Report #7, December 1991, pg 42) it's well worth reading.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued several times by
FAIR. (based on In box review) A beginner modeler would rate is as GOOD. It looks like it would build up to an attractive model. Brown plastic hull and small parts; white plastic masts and sails (injection, not vac-form). Brown molded ratlines, but they are flat on the backside! Some unevenness in above water undecorated hull that may be an attempt to suggest wood grain; underwater hull smooth. Large amount of decorative engraved detail in upper wales that is not unreasonable for this scale, but appears to show a bit of mold wear on my example. All lower deck guns are molded as barrels to glue to locating holes in the wells of the gunports, which are molded with port lids open and flat against hull. Completely molded guns on carriages on upper deck are good, and compare reasonably with those on Revell small CONSTITUTION. One strange oversight is that the extensions of the side galleries at the stern appear to have overlooked that there are open walkways at the fore ends; the are molded as if they are 'crawlspace' boxes. This might be difficult to correct. The deck gratings are nice, though not open lattices; the main boat is two pieces (hull, gunwales/seats) and shows spaces along the gunwales that could be reasonably interpreted to be oarlocks. Rather nice authentic for period flag sheet (Scots flag not yet incorporated into overall Union flag). Instructions indicate that the model originally came with black and white thread (not jute?) but there are NO rigging instructions; just a reference to using photographs in instructions as a rigging guide. My example, bought at a flea market, had been partly assembled and then disassembled again, but the hull fit appears to be good. Box and instructions are copyright 1967.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
GOOD. Pretty good, for its day. I admit that below the waterline, it's pretty bad, but it's pretty good above. It's rather like a scaled down Revell Baltimore Class. Like the Revell kit, it has the rounded stern of the later units of the Baltimore class. The kit came with decals for the whole Baltimore class. This kit dates back at least to 1962, possibly as far back as 1957.(DRW)
GOOD. This is a review from memory. This is one of the neatest models Aurora ever made. The scale was probably around 1/72nd. The shape was accurate; the folding foils were a bit difficult but nice when you got them to work - if only the bow doors for the fore foil could have been movable! The guns were nicely detailed; sailor figures looked realistic, and the model had a light grey hull and superstructure, and dark grey deck and gun parts. It made a most interesting, impressive looking model. Clear plastic part for bridge windows was included.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Same kit as U-505.
GOOD. A bit basic by modern standards, but fundamentally OK. Deck guns are not very detailed. As far as I know, the real U-505 didn't have the net cutter on the bow, at least not at the time of her capture. It's easy enough to leave it off and fill in the mounting holes. It was originally issued sometime around 1961. It was reissued by Monogram under SSP in 1996. Grab 'em while you can! (DRW)
Editor's Note: Includes Iowa, Forrestal, St. Paul, and Bennion. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1957. The box says that when built, the kit is about twelve inches long. Scale is unclear, some sources say 1/60, others say 1/64.(DRW)
I have somewhere a nearly built Aurora Viking ship, scale around 1/60, judging from the men. Classic Aurora thickness etc, don't know if it's the same model as the Heller one. (PauloB)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 15 inches (38 cm) long. Pictures show a single piece hull molded in white, and a single piece deck molded in brown. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1966. (DRW)
POOR. Molded from an early drawing that showed the early war configuration on one side of the deck plan (6.1 inch triple amidships) and late war (6.1 inch removed, 3 twin 5 inch added) on the other, so the kit is asymmetrical and does not represent the real ship at any time. Unusually crude for Aurora, especially in light AA. "K profile" mainmast difficult to make. Boat hangars not even molded open. It had a two piece hull, but OK fit compared to other Aurora two piece hulls. (Brooks), review dated 7 January 2003, updated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Extremely rare. Sometimes sold together with Enterprise. >From pictures I've seen online, it looks like the hull is split along the keel, sort of like an Airfix kit. This kit was issued around 1960.
For comparison, check out these (admittedly much more modern) kits:
Editor's Note: Combination of the Enterprise and Yamato kits. Issued circa 1962, as part of a "American Heritage Naval Battles of World War II" series. Extremely rare. (DRW)
(TR) updated 18 January 2009
GOOD. This kit is part of the extensive "1/2000 Navy Collection" issued by Bandai in the 1970s. Apparently aimed both at the modeler and wargamer, this series of small injection molded kits offered not only the usual battleships and carriers, but a selection of cruisers, destroyers, and subs as well. Bandai released them only once, but some of the more popular subjects (including the Hood) have since been manufactured in China by Fuman and Eica.
Coming in at about five inches, Bandai's Hood is a small but reasonably accurate representation of the ship as she appeared during her battle with the Bismarck in May 1941. The kit consists of 24 parts and, like all the kits in the series, can be built either waterline or full hull using separate underwater hull parts molded in red. Surface detailing is good, with attractive plank detail on the main deck (but unfortunately not on the boat deck, which should have it too). The hull outline is accurate with good representation of the antitirpedo blisters, although the armor belts are missing and the bow is swept at a bit too much of an angle. Superstructure, mast, and funnel shapes are accurate, and they along with the main 15" guns and 4" HA guns all come as separate parts. Smaller components such as th UP projectors, pom-poms, and boats are molded directly to the decks... which at this tiny scale might not be such a bad approach. They look good once painted.
Simplifications and minor inaccuracies aside, this kit builds into an appealing little Hood. Too bad this and the other ships in this interesting series have become so hard to find.
(TR), review dated April 20, 2007.
GOOD. Part of Bandai's "1/2000 Navy Collection" issued in the1970s, the kit depicts the ship as she appeared late in World War Two following her bizarre "battleship/carrier" conversion with the after two 14" turrets replaced with a small flight deck. This kit builds into a small model, less than four inches in length. Not surprisingly, the 36 gray and red plastic parts represent a rather simplified rendition of this complex ship, but the finished effect is good. Major structures such as the hull, pagoda, funnel, and flight deck consist of very few parts but are correct in outline. The model can be built either waterline or full hull using the separate two-part underwater section molded in red. While there aren't any shafts or propellers, separate twin rudders are included, and the prominent antitorpedo blisters, skeg, and bilge keels are appropriately represented. Parts fit throughout is fine, though the upper/lower hull fit isn't perfect. Still, only a small amount of filler was required to adjust the tiny hull. The decks show overscale but attractive plank, nonslip surface, and ground tackle detail. Ship's boats are molded directly to the deck too, but look pretty good; the various types of launches, gigs and daihatsu are all clearly recognizeable. The flight deck aft is correct in outline and has, despite its being just over an inch length, a good deal of molded in detail including aircraft transport rails, turntables, an elevator, 25mm triples and 5"AA rocket launchers. No aircraft are provided, but this is not a problem as the converted Ise never actually embarked an airgroup anyway. The separate one piece 14" turrets are accurately shaped with appropriately sized barrels and, in the cases of turrets two and three, rangefinders and separate AA galleries. The six twin 5" DP mounts are molded directly to the decks with paired barrels as separate parts, and the numerous 25mm triple mounts and rocket launchers are molded to the decks. These simplified arrangements are actually fairly effective in is small scale, and the finished model looks convincing.
As with the other ships in the series, this kit is simple enough (and inexpensive when issued in the 1970s) to be built by a kid as a toy but at the same time accurate enough to be the basis of a more serious scale model.
(TR), review dated 8 June 2007.
GOOD.
This model appears to have been planned using the Revell 1/426 Arizona as a reference. Quite a few of the assemblies are similar, if not downright exactly like the smaller Revell version. There are approximately 105 pieces in this kit, and the hull is molded in two pieces, so the builder has a choice of making a full hull or a waterline version. The hull has certain parts of the decks molded in place, but the fore and aft decks are separate plates that fit in place. The fit is excellent, but there is a seam to contend with. The hull features waterline anti-torpedo bulges which line up accurately on the lower hull. The lower hull also features bilge keels.
All of the superstructure decks are made to stack like the Revell ship, and in doing so there is a noticeable horizontal seam in the center. This is because the bulkheads are molded halfway up on one deck, and on the next highest deck there is the second half of the lower bulkhead. Portholes and windows are formed when the decks are assembled. This wasn't a problem on the bridge assembly, but the mold was mismatched on the main deck, where the 02 deck and casemate gun emplacements reside. As a result, the portholes won't look correct unless the bulkheads are filled and sanded, or replaced altogether, which is what I did. The 02 deck is supposed to be steel, but Banner scribed planking on the deck. Again, careful scraping with the edge of an X-acto blade took care of that. The tripod masts are assembled in several pieces. But be careful because the legs and platforms must all be assembled carefully, or they will easily become out of alignment.
The armament consists of the main 14" guns, 5" guns, and what appears to be 20mm AA guns. The 14" guns fit rather well in the turret, and if the modeler is careful, each barrel will move up and down independent of the other. However there are no blast bags. The 5" guns are 2 pieces, the barrel and the platform. The platform is well detailed and these guns assemble rather easily. The 20mm guns are one piece and have minimal detail.
There are 2 aircraft catapults, one for the no. 3 turret and one for the stern. They are very basic, with no detail. The OS2U Kingfishers are also very minimally detailed, with grossly oversized recessed panel details. The wings are too pointy. However, with a little work they can be OK.
A small decal set is provided which has the stern name "Arizona" in black, waterline markings, flags, and insignia for the Kingfishers. The box art shows a light gray ship, but the box is labeled USS Arizona, December 7, 1941. At that time, the ship was painted in Measure 1 overall dark gray. The ship's name would also be painted the same color, so you won't need the name decal.
Overall this is not a difficult kit to assemble, and for the most part, fits together very well. Tom's Modelworks makes a photoetched brass set specifically for this model. It comes with all the details like cranes, catapults, ladders, and railings. Do yourself a favor and buy this set, rather than trying to bend generic railing sets to fit. This set has all the stanchions properly spaced, and is quite easy to work with.
(RD) Review dated 15 September 2001.
Editor's Note: Possibly re-issued by Trumpeter. It seems to have been re-issued by Banner in 2009.
GENERAL COMMENTS: I don't know that much about Battlefleet Models, but they seem to be out of business at this writing. (2021) They seem to have been active during the 2010s. They seemed to specialize in 1/350 and 1/700 resin kits of naval auxiliaries. (DRW)
| Alchiba | Algonquin | Barge Set II | Capella | Cherokee | Hog Islander | Kriegsmarine Supply/Repair Barge | Tamaroa |
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Looks like it is very cleanly cast, and they obviously used good references.
(DRW), review dated 21 Nov 2021.
Editor's Note: Seems to be a close relative of the Battlefleet Cherokee. (DRW)
Blue Ridge Models
4167 E First St
Blue Ridge, GA 30513
Tel: +1 706 946 1120
Fax: +1 706 946 1121
Check out their web site (DRW)
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: The proposed Arsenal Ship.
Editor's Notes: This kit is presumably closely related to the Tennessee.
Editor's Notes:
Reissue of the Skywave/Midship Models plastic kits with a selection of detail parts, including photoetch frets and laser-cut wooden deck.
The following kits are presumably closely related:
EXCELLENT. Resin kit depicts Growler in final configuration. Very clean castings. Missile bay is split lengthwise with separate top, allowing full detail of missile compartment with nicely-detailed photoetch and resin parts. Regulus missiles may be depicted stowed or deployed for launch.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Alaska-class, above
EXCELLENT. An earlier effort with not quite the polish of later BRM kits, but still extremely good with cleanly-cast parts. Includes numbers and names for the entire class but varying degrees of modification may be required to depict other units. For SS-567 as built it is an easy from-the-box build.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
EXCELLENT. Very nice castings that require little cleanup. Can be built in guided missile configuration or as special-operations submarine with "DSRV trainer" on the stern. Excellent detail throughout.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: See notes under New Mexico-class, below
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, below. This kit seems to have portrayed the ship in the 1960s, with Regulus misiles. As of 2015, it is discontinued.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, below. This kit seems to be a 20" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, below. This kit seems to be a 20" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Indiana-class, above
Reissue of the Skywave/Midship Models plastic kits with a selection of detail parts, including photoetch frets and laser-cut wooden deck.
Editor's Notes: See notes under New Mexico-class, below
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Each one is a variant.
Editor's Notes: The following kits are presumably closely related:
Each one is a variant.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Midship Models Nevada, reviewed by Bill Swan. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, above. This kit seems to have portrayed the ship in the 1991, with Tomahawk misiles. As of 2015, it is discontinued.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Midship Models New Mexico, reviewed by Bill Swan. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: Plastic kit. Presumably related to the Skywave kit. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, above. This kit seems to be a 18" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Montana-class, above. This kit seems to be a 18" gun variant.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Nevada-class, above
Editor's Notes: See notes under Indiana-class, above
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Classic Warships St. Louis Kit
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in her late-war configuration. The following kits are presumably closely related:
Yes, the West Virginia was a Colorado-class, but Colorados and Tennessees were close relatives, and the West Virginia even got a similar wartime refit.
Editor's Notes: Plastic kit. Presumably related to the Skywave kit. See notes under New York-class, above
EXCELLENT. Kit of the never-completed supercarrier at the heart of the 1949 controversy over strategic airpower, based on best available material. Beautiful castings. One-piece waterline hull casting with hangar deck, and one-piece flight deck with positionable elevators. Bridge can be positioned raised or lowered. A nice selection of aircraft (AJ Savage, XF10F, XF5U, and the Douglas 1186), very nice decals, and excellent photoetch. Extensive instructions leave no real guesswork.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) I've seen one of these in the box, and I agree with every word that Jodie says.
(DRW), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a re-issue of the Classic Warships Ward kit
Editor's Notes: This kit is presumably closely related to the Tennessee. Portrays the ship in her late-war configuration. Yes, the West Virginia was a Colorado-class, but Colorados and Tennessees were close relatives, and the West Virginia even got a similar wartime refit. It could be a re-issue of the Classic Warships West Virginia.
I'm not sure when Blue Water Navy began operations, but they were certainly in business during most of the 1990s. They closed in December 2003. Most of their assets were purchased by Yankee Modelworks.
At last word, Blue Ridge Models had their molds.
Special thanks to Tom Dougherty, for reviewing so many of BWN's submarines. (DRW)
MB Models was owned by Mike Bishop. mbishop446@aol.com. Their address was:
MB Models / Blue Water Navy
622 Old Trolley Road Unit 112
Summerville, South Carolina 29485
(843) 821-3558
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit which consists of resin, white metal, brass rod and brass photo etch parts. The hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline to offer the builder the option of full hull or waterline. Clunk! that was the sound of the bottom going in the trash can as I only build waterline, sorry, full hull fans, you won't hear any more about the bottom.
The upper hull is cleanly cast with good surface detail that incorporates elements of the lower superstructure. The bottom of this casting will need some light sanding to be completely flat. There is very little overpour on this kits hull pieces. All the other parts both resin and white metal, are virtually flash free and highly detailed. The resin parts will require some vigorous sanding to remove overpour but less than other kits that I have seen from this maker (or YMW). There were no incomplete or miscast parts. The white metal parts will require only light cleanup before use.
The photo etch fret included is very complete and includes in addition to the usual parts the 20 mm battery and a full set of highly detailed railings. Except for decals this kit includes everything you will need to complete this model.
This is a great kit for the first time resin builder. It is very detailed, well molded, with no obvious flaws and not too complicated in structure. You will not need to buy any other supplementary parts and that keeps the ultimate cost down (except for the decals). The experienced modeler will be able to produce an exemplary model.
Directions:: very clear and specific combination of English text, photos and diagrams. Painting instructions are also included in text format.
Packaging: clearly marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the finished model as the box art. Hull is wrapped in bubble wrap. Small parts are bagged and the box was then filled with crumpled newspaper.
(WJS), review dated 21 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942. (DRW)
GOOD. When I originally bought this kit, it was when the company was Blue Water Navy. The kit is very nicely molded, with no bubbles to fill in. None. Typical of BWN/YKM's quality. There is a pour plug that needs to be ground off, which is fairly normal for a resin kit. Just be careful not to gouge the hull.
The pattern of floodholes matches photos of early Akula I boats running on the surface. The Improved Akula and Akula II boats have a different pattern of flood holes and the distinctive Kolos non-acoustical sensor suite. These early pictures probably were the only ones available when the kit was originally made, and so there are some items that need modifying to make the model more like an Akula I. First is the addition of a sea water scoop on each side of the aft hull, which I made out of layers of sheet styrene. The type of scoop on the Akula has a flat, half-ellipse shape to it, so it's fairly easy to fabricate. There are now some photos of Akulas in dry dock on the internet, so you can see the scoops and the fact that the bow is slightly more blunt than it is in the YKM kit. I elected not to try reshaping the bow. The propeller needs to be extended further aft with a short length of styrene tubing. The rest of the model is very detailed, seems quite accurate and crisp. The flood holes seem to be aligned correctly.
I painted mine PS scale black and added some white striping on a couple of places where I saw it in photos.
If you want a nice, sleek-looking example of Soviet submarine architecture before the fall of the Empire, the YKM kit can still be made into a good representation of the early Akula I.
For Improved Akula or Akula II you'd need to look at the Polar Bear or Alanger kit.
(CM), review dated 21 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by Yankee Model Works, below.
GOOD.A 1:350 scale resin kit, with photoetch and white metal parts, includes decals.
The Soviet Navy's Alfa submarines (designated as Project 705, LIRA) are the source of endless fascination. These submarines had titanium hulls and liquid metal (lead-bismuth) reactors, giving them unparalleled speed (> 40 kts) and diving depth (approx 3000 ft). Alas, they were noisy and very difficult to maintain, and all are scrapped.
The BWN kit was brought out prior to the extensive information now available on these submarines, using the early 1990s Greg Sharpe drawings. Thus, the prominent water scoop for reactor cooling along the hull near the engineering spaces is absent, as are the two auxiliary propulsors near the tips of the stern planes. There are several details on the topside of the kit that need addressing. The rescue buoy immediately abaft the sail is a bit too prominent (high), as is the raised hatch toward the stern. The sail needs to gradually taper downward toward the rear, and does not have the pronounced bend at the rear of the kit sail. The six torpedo tubes are represented as slightly raised circles, correct in shape and placement, but should be scribed, not raised. Use them as a template for scribing, then sand down. Minor discrepancies with limber holes are also noted. Probably due to the kit's issuance prior to authoritative information, the stern tapers to a too narrow stem near the propeller. Much better than the DML/Dragon styrene kits of the Alfa class.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
GOOD. The kit depicts the USS Atlanta during her short operational life. My kit was an older BWN casting with a four piece hull. Amazingly I managed to get all four pieces together and they all fit well enough that only a bit of putty and wet sanding was needed. The kit was well cast with very few pinholes and no major defects. The one drawback to BWN designed castings is they have large pour plugs. It took me several kits to develop good methods to remove them easily. The smaller resin parts were well cast with a few scattered pinholes to fix. The white metal parts were very good with just a little flash and mold seams to clean up, about as much work as cleaning up plastic parts. The PE is very good but not as finely etched as GMM, WEM or Lion Roar. The instructions were good in their day but suffer from being based on photos that have been Xeroxed a few too many times.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued as:
This kit has been re-issued by Yankee Model Works..
EXCELLENT. This kit has an interesting history. Designed by John Ficklin, it was one of the very first mass marketed resin model ship kits (in fact it was the second, after Ficklin's excellent Oliver Hazard Perry class frigate). Originally sold under the Blue Water Navy label, which was MB Models' line of ships, it was later produced by Gulfstream (kit #GS-8004) and by Iron Shipwright (kit # 4-123). The Gulfstream and Iron Shipwright versions appeared with one piece full hulls cast in gray resin. The Iron Shipwright also offered a redesigned photoetch sheet.
The kit reviewed here is the original Blue Water Navy release which had a two part full hull split along the waterline with white metal funnels, props, weapons, and assorted bits plus photoetch railing and other details. The kit is very complete, lacking only a piece of wire for the simple pole mast and yard. Construction is straightforward, requiring only mating of the hull halves (for the full hull option) and attachment of the various white metal and photoetched brass parts. The hull parts are cleanly cast in tan resin with effective portholes, hatches, ventilators, and other detail. The white metal parts (funnels, large ventilators, weapons, spotlight, boats, and propeller brackets) are well cast with a level of detail appropriate for this simple ship. The photoetch fret contains the safety railing, ladders, davits, oars, helm, compass, engine order telegraph, as well as the anchor, propellers, and rudder. I especially liked the extensive awning supports provided with the rails, which make it easy to depict the canvas awnings so often seen on these ships. I also liked the brass representation of the engine room skylights, which can be displayed either open or closed. Measuring only 81/2 inches this is not a large model, but the end result with all that railing and awning detail is pleasingly complex rendition of this historically notable ship.
(TR) Review dated 22 March 2007.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued by:
Porter class DD.
FAIR. (based on In Box Review)
Note: The molds for this kit were acquired by Yankee ModelWorks and the kit is sold as Balch #35103. Many of these molds were cleaned up and reworked by YMW, I don’t know is this has been, I hope so as this is not one of BWN’s better efforts. This kit represents Balch in 1942 fit. If you want and earlier version of a Porter Class check out the YMW Porter #35102 in 1938 fit.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with white metal and photo etched brass for details. The hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline so that a full hull or waterline model can be built from this kit. I don’t built full hull so, thunk, there goes the lower hull and all the bits that go with it into the trash. The upper hull is molded with the lower superstructure and funnels in place on the main deck. There are no portholes or plated over portholes in the hull, in fact the hull is pretty much featureless. The deckhouses are crisp and cleanly molded. I wish I could say the same for the main deck itself. There are tool marks in several places that will be difficult to remove. The bollards are just rectangles on the deck edges and my kit had large chips along the waterline. The rest of the resin parts were OK. They will require the usual cleanup. Be careful with the upper superstructure alignment when trimming as this is a problem area. The white metal parts were surprisingly clean and sharp. A nice touch is the way the life rafts are molded as rings to which a PE part is attached as netting on the bottom. The PE, as expected on an older kit is not relief etched but it is quite extensive and well executed. You should not need any extra PE for this kit. However, you will need brass rod for the masts and some chain for the anchors as well as a few bits of plastic stock here and there. There were no decals in my kit. I would also recommend brass main battery barrels for this kit as white metal barrels just don’t cut it.
Directions: Excellent high quality black and white drawings that show all parts placement. A surprise in a kit of this vintage.
Packaging: thick, heavy white cardboard box that had the hull pieces wrapped in bubble and the resin and white metal parts bagged.
Unless the kit has been improved by YMW I wouldn’t go with this unless you were really desperate for a mid war Porter Class ship.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. A resin kit in 1:350 with white metal and brass photoetch parts.
The US Navy's first attempt at building a Fleet Submarine, a sub with the range and speed to operate with the surface fleet. The three large submarines of the B class (Bass, Bonita, and Barracuda) were singularly unsuccessful experiments. They suffered from poor performance and sea keeping, and were soon sidelined. More practical designs superseded the B class, eventually leading to the Gato class.
The large BWN hull captures the unique shape of these unusual submarines. The numerous limber holes and deck details are all crisply rendered. A pour plug must be removed from the keel with files and sandpaper, taking care not to damage the adjacent bilge keel. The prominent bow anchor is rendered in white metal, as is the gun and fore and aft radio antenna masts. A nice photoetch sheet with railings, control surfaces and propellers is provided. Can be built into a very nice model of this unusual class of submarines. Very good kit for a more experienced modeler.
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
Winston Churchill is the specific ship for this model.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT This kit is a 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal and photoetch parts.
The Los Angeles class (688) of nuclear attack submarines represents the largest class of American SSNs built, with a total of 55 units built. The submarines up to SSN-718 (USS Honolulu) were built to the original design, with sail mounted planes and no VLS missile tubes. The next 8 ships had the 12 VLS tubes in the bow, but retained the sail planes. Starting with USS San Juan (SSN 751), the subs had retractable bow planes in place of sail planes, along with the bow VLS tubes. These also received a special propeller (with a ring attached to the blade tips) and a set of anhedral fins that had countermeasure dispensers at the tips.
The BWN kit emphasizes the long hull (360 ft) and small sail of this class of submarines. A large pour plug must be removed from the hull bottom by filing and sanding. The later versions of the kit come with beautifully scribed in VLS hatches that cover the bow VLS tubes. Unlike the Dragon/DML USS Hampton kit, the VLS hatches on this kit are in the correct configuration. The only minor blooper is the misplaced forward ballast tank vent, moved to accommodate the VLS installation. If you want an early, non VLS hull, merely fill the scribed lines in with putty and sand smooth. The towed array fairing on the portside comes complete with a double track for the topside safety lines. The stern features the four raised "zincs" (paint these pale white) at 45 degrees off the cruciform control surfaces . The rudder and stern planes are quite accurate, and the vertical "fins" found on the DML Dallas kit are missing, as they should be! You get both sail mounted planes and bow planes, so again you can choose the version. Note the bow planes are much smaller than the sail planes (because they are farther from the CG of the ship, and have a greater effect). Use the 7 bladed "scythe" propeller for all versions. For the later 688s (San Juan onward), you will have to scratchbuild the anhedrals and the ring for the propeller. Several research drawings are available that render these details. This is an excellent model of this very important class of submarines, and much superior to the available versions in styrene.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
GOOD. There are two Farenholt kits, I built the 1942 version for the really wild camouflage scheme. Well cast resin parts with a two piece hull. The hull seam only required a little putty and sanding. Very few pinholes in the resin parts. The white metal parts were well cast with only minor clean up needed. The PE is good but is not as fine as GMM or WEM. The instructions were pretty bad since they were a few too many generations old in the Xerox copying game. The unique camouflage really needs a good drawing or set of photos.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit consisting of resin, plastic, brass rod, white metal and photo etch parts. There were no incomplete or miscast parts in my kit. All parts have excellent surface detail and little to no flash. The hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline to offer the builder a choice of full hull or waterline versions. The bottom in my kit went straight into the garbage can as I only build waterline.
The upper hull is cleanly cast and highly detailed. It incorporates elements of the superstructure. The bottom of the upper hull has a slight overpour which will take a few minutes to sand flat. (I take a shallow baking dish, put some wet/dry sandpaper in the bottom and cover it with water to eliminate resin dust while sanding) You will need to do this also for the smaller resin parts to eliminate the overpour on the bottoms of some of the parts like the rest of the superstructure.
The white metal parts are also highly detailed and will require very little preparation before use. The photo etch parts are excellent and include tons of parts to detail this ship.
Everything you need to complete this model is included except decals. This is a very worthwhile kit that is suitable for the novice resin builder and the expert.
Directions:: very clear and specific combination of English text, photos and line drawings. Painting instructions are also included in text format.
Packaging: clearly marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the finished model as the box art. Hull is wrapped in bubble wrap. Small parts are bagged and the box was then filled with foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 21 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945. (DRW)
GOOD. Another really old kit with a four peice hull. Good to very good casting of the resin parts with very few pinholes to fix. Good white metal parts requiring little clean up. Good PE. This kit had a bit of differential shrinkage in the hull parts leaving the lower hull 1/8" short and slight width mismatch along the armor belt. I opted for a good fit at the stern and elected to butt the two lower hull parts tight then sawed the first 2.5" of lower bow free and lined it up for length then filled the gap with resin. The width fix was as easy as sanding the armor belt thinner and facing it with styrene sheet. The kit had survived a few moves and the bilge keels had to be replaced due to damage but that was my fault, not a defect in the kit. The kit supplies brass rod for the tripods, yards and prop shafts with a cut to length specified for each part on the instructions. That's also about the only good comment I can make about the instructions. Mine were copies of copies of copies of copies of copies, which is not a good thing for photo based instructions. BWN also had an annoying habit of providing a full set of instructions for the first kit of a class then adding a set of so-so ship specific instructions for different ships of the class.
(RWS), Review dated 17 August 2007.
Editor's Note: See notes under Northampton-class.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in box review)
Notes: as far as I can tell the entire kit contents are exactly the same as the Atlanta kit issued by Blue Water Navy #35029.
These ships were also called super destroyers for a time as well as their light cruiser designation.
Juneau was sunk by the Japanese during the naval actions around Guadalcanal in late 1942. When she went down five brothers of the Sullivan family were lost with her.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit which also contains white metal and photo etched brass detail parts. You will need brass rod or tube to complete the masts and a decal set for the ship's number. The hull of my kit came in two pieces split at the waterline for the modeler's choice of full hull or waterline. Earlier kits came in four parts. This is a huge improvement. THUUUNKK!!! The sound you just “heard” was the lower half of the hull going in the garbage as I only build waterline, so nothing more about that. The upper hull is cast up to the main deck only. No superstructure parts are cast with it as is the usual practice with most resin kits. Presumably, this allows BWN to include different superstructure parts for other members of the class without having to have two or more hull masters. The hull was cleanly cast with no pinholes, sinkholes, dropouts, bubbles or other deformations present. The limited amount of deck detail on these vessels was cast in or will be added from the other parts in the kit. The superstructure was cast in two large parts with the smaller parts to be added from the bags of resin or white metal parts. The metal parts will require minor cleanup similar to that necessary on plastic parts. All the resin parts, including the upper hull will have to be sanded down to remove their pour plugs. This will require quite a bit of time and effort as some of the residue from the pour is thick. (I would suggest that you take a piece of wet/dry sandpaper, put it in a shallow baking dish, cover with water and sand in a circular motion. This will keep the nasty resin dust down and under control as well as make the chore go quicker and more pleasantly). However, the surface detail is good and only the bottoms of the pieces will require cleanup. I’m not crazy about the gun barrels being cast in white metal as it is difficult to make them look right. I would suggest that a set of after market turned brass or aluminum barrels be purchased to improve the look of the finished model. The photo etch from BWN has always been excellent and the etch in this kit is no exception. 3D effect is achieved on a number of parts on this fret. My past experience with PE from BWN is that it is easy to work with and fits the way it is supposed to, there appears to be no difference with the PE in this kit. This is a very good model of the subject ship (especially if the subject ship is identical to the Atlanta).
Directions:: eight pages of text, in English, and photos of the completed model or in a few cases partially completed model giving location tips on the various parts. Having worked with this system before I can say that you should be prepared for some confusion as to parts placement. A good set of ship photos would be helpful. You will need information on how the ship was painted anyway as I don't find the instructions to be helpful on that score either. There were no rigging instructions included. The main point is that the directions in my kit were for Atlanta, the only mention of the Juneau was in a photo credit on the last page, presumably of the photo on the box top.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with a photo of the completed model on the cover (which, btw, contradicts the painting instructions in the directions in the kit). Small parts bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap along with the hull pieces, with foam peanuts in the voids in the box.
Additional note: the Atlanta class kits are now made and marketed by Yankee Modelworks so some content may now differ, please check with your dealer or the manufacturer directly.
(WJS), review dated 13 March 2008.
Editor's Notes:See notes under Atlanta-class.
GOOD. A resin kit in 1:350 scale with white metal and brass photoetch.
The Project 877 (PALTUS) submarine is a modern diesel SS used in both the Russian Navy, a well as exported (China, India, Iran and other countries). The design is an Albacore shaped hull, with a large sail.
The kit has a resin pour at the keel to remove by sanding. Overall, a good representation of the hull, although torpedo tubes are not represented. The emergency buoys on the upper deck casing are a bit too prominent (raised), and the upper deck casing itself should probably be a bit more raised. A very simple resin kit to assemble, and overall very good.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Editor's Note: This kit represents a Project 877 boat (NATO code name "Kilo") and not the related Project 636 boat. (Also NATO code name "Kilo") (DRW)
Editor's Note: As at Coral Sea, with option for 8" guns.
This is one big model. (JP)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: multimedia kit which includes resin, white metal, various brass rod stock, and photo etched brass detail parts. There are no decals included with this kit.
The hull is a four piece casting. There are two parts to the lower hull (two thunks in the garbage can for me as I only build waterline) and two parts for the upper hull. Upper and lower hull parts are divided at the waterline. Putting these together is going to require a lot of care to get right, especially when working with super glue. The bottom parts of the upper hull pieces are fairly flat out of the box but I suggest that your want to make sure they are dead flat so as not to cause any alignment problems when mating the fore and aft sections.
Surface detail is excellent and flawless. There are no incomplete or miscast elements to the hull pieces. There are no pinholes, air bubbles or any of the other casting flaws sometimes found on large scale resin kits. The other resin pieces have excellent surface detail and no readily apparent errors. You will need to sand off some overpour on these pieces but not too much.
The numerous white metal pieces are also well cast and highly detailed. Minor cleanup will be needed there as well but no more so than an injection molded kit. This is such a great kit that I think you will want to treat yourself to a set of turned brass after market main battery gun barrels rather than use the white metal ones provided.
The PE on three separate frets is detailed and very complete. While it is not of the newest "3d" type etching it is still very good. BWN PE is, in my experience always 1st class stuff and easy to work with. I really love this kit and think it is a terrific addition to any model collection.
The only problem with its construction stems from the potential difficulties associated with mating the various hull pieces, although I certainly would not let that stop me from buying this kit. (and it didn't!)
Directions:: a little disappointing, they consist of text and accompanying photos of various subassemblies. This is put together in a somewhat confusing manner to which is added the additional confusion of having to read two sets together as the general directions are for the Northampton so you must put the notes for Louisville along side them to catch the differences in the construction of those ships. They are not as complete as other sets of BWN directions I have seen, most notably, USS Samuel B. Roberts #35004.
Packaging: well marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the completed ship model as the box art. All parts are securely bagged and/or wrapped in bubble wrap.
Note: this kit ( like all the former BWN kits ) is now produced and marketed by Yankee Modelworks. The hull is now molded in just two pieces not four, divided at the waterline.
(WJS), review dated 23 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Northampton-class.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued as:
This kit has been re-issued by Yankee Model Works..
Editor's Notes: See notes under Atlanta-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: multimedia kit with resin, white metal and photo etch brass detail parts. There are no decals included in this kit. All parts are beautifully cast and virtually flash free. The hull is a three piece casting. The lower hull is one piece (easy to throw away, as I only do waterline) The upper hull is cast in two pieces and can accommodate different long or short hull members of the class. The large upper hull piece incorporates most of the superstructure. A small piece of the stern must be attached to complete the upper hull. A full length bit of overpour must be sanded off the bottom of each upper hull piece (as well as the top of the lower hull if it weren't in the garbage). Hull detail is very sharp. The only resin pieces in the kit are the hull sections. The other parts are white metal or PE. The white metal parts are well detailed and cleanly cast. Very little prep is needed to clean them up.
The PE set is gorgeous. Everything is well marked and nicely detailed. Everything you need for the complicated mast structure of this kit is included and done in such a way as to make the construction of the masts easy. Railings are excellent and include deck details like the chocks. The large fret even includes life preservers and 23 crew figures.
Whether or not you are a beginner at resin kits or an old hand this kit is a great purchase. I feel that it is easier to build than similar injection molded kits in this scale and will turn out a better result by far.
The only difficult part of assembly will be the marriage of hull sections without producing visible seams. The only negative to the kit is the lack of decals for the deck warning areas but they are available in the after market.
Directions:: excellent step by step directions in exploded view diagram format. Painting instructions and decal placement (even though there were none included) are provided as well. A brief history of the Perry class ships, technical data, a photo of the completed model and line drawings are also included.
Packaging: well marked, sturdy cardboard box with a photo of the completed ship model as the box art. All parts are securely bagged and/or wrapped in bubble wrap.
Note: this kit ( like all the former BWN kits ) is now produced and marketed by Yankee Modelworks.
(WJS), review dated 23 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. Resin kit with photoetch and white metal in 1:350 scale, no decals provided.
The S-boats were acquired by the US Navy just after WWI, and served into the early days of WWII. These small submarines were based partly on some of the lessons of the German U-boats in the first World War. The submarines were built to several different plans.
The BWN S-boat kit is a crisp rendition of an Electric Boat built submarine, the S-26, with exquisite detail in the limber holes, deck and conning tower. The hull has a resin pour plug that must be carefully sanded off, and minimal assembly is required. In this scale, the finished model is slightly over 7 inches in length. A real gem when carefully assembled and painted. Excellent kit!
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
EXCELLENT. Resin kit in 1:350 scale with white metal and brass photoetch parts.
The Seawolf class was designed in the 1980s as a large, advanced attack submarine to counter the Soviet Navy's increasingly sophisticated submarine fleet. With the end of the Cold War, the class, originally to number 29 ships, was reduced to 3. Although displacing over 9000 tons submerged, Seawolf is deeper diving and considerably faster than the predecessor Los Angeles (688) class of 6,900 tons displacment. The third ship of the class, the USS Jimmy Carter, had been greatly modified and lengthened to perform "Special Projects" operations.
The BWN kit is a very nice rendition of the USS Seawolf, although it could also be built up as the USS Connecticut. The resin hull has a large resin pour plug that must be filed and sanded to remove. The hull emphasizes the beam (40 ft) of these submarines, much increased over the preceding 688 class of 33 ft. The hull has delicate scribing of topside features, as well as scribing of the 8 torpedo tubes. Along each side of the hull are the three fairings for the Wide Aperture Array sonar. The sail has the streamlined front fairing, and various access hatches are nicely rendered. The most challenging part of this kit is the assembly of the pumpjet propulsor. The pumpjet replaces a conventional propeller, and has both moving impellers and stationary stators inside the shroud. This device is quieter and more efficient than a conventional propeller. The kit provides photetch rotors and stators, along with guide holes for mounting. There is also a photo guide to this process. A resin shroud finishes off the pumpjet. The plans come complete with a beautiful Deep Sea Design docking plan drawing showing the topside, bottom, side, front and rear views of the submarine. Definitely a superb kit for the experienced modeler.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
EXCELLENT. A 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal and brass photoetch fittings, no decals.
The Simon Bolivar is a late model Polaris/Poseidon submarine of the Benjamin Franklin class. These boats were 425 feet in length, and were among the last of the first generation of American SSBNs.
The kit features an impressive size resin hull. There is a resin pour plug that must be removed by file and sanding, and the ballast tank grates are represented along the bottom of the hull. The topside details (missile tube doors, hatches, safety railing, etc.) are all nicely scribed in, and a towed array fairing runs down the starboard side and along the outboard sternplane. A minor complaint is that no torpedo tube openings (there should be four) are scribed into the bow. A nice touch is that the retractable bow sonar is modeled in the extended position. As with all BWN models, the modeler must provide a base for display. I mounted mine on an oak base with keel blocks. It builds into a very handsome model with minimal effort- an excellent kit! (TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
EXCELLENT. A 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal parts and photoetch brass. No decals provided.
In the late 1950s, the US Navy married the nuclear reactor to the Albacore "teardrop" hull, and got the Skipjack class of submarines. These little attack submarines exceeded 30 kts. when submerged, an unheard of performance just 15 years after the end of WWII. Only 6 of these speedy attack subs were built, and one, USS Scorpion, was lost with all hands in 1968. Although fast, they were also loud, and the evolution was toward quietness and depth (Thresher class).
The BWN rendering in resin of Skipjack is a thing of beauty. A pour plug along the keel must be carefully removed to leave a very graceful and accurate rendition of these submarines. The sail has nicely detailed scribing, as does the deck. The only minor gripes are the six torpedo tubes (correct configuration) are raised, as are the deadlights high up on the sail. These can be used as scribing guides and then sanded away. As built, these submarines had two sets of deadlights, with an additional set about a third of the way down the sail, just below the whistle. Later, the lower deadlights were removed. The sail itself is the correct, non-tapered shape as viewed from the bow, and does not narrow near the top as does the Aurora/Monogram/Revell Skipjack kits. The font of the sail also has the nice sharp leading edge, not the rounded blunt edge of the styrene kits. The Skipjacks were built with a 5 bladed propeller, and later received the new 7 bladed, scythe-shaped propeller (to abate the propeller noise known as "blade rate"). BWN provides both propellers, so it's your choice. This kit is rated excellent!
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Kingfisher / Catapult version.
EXCELLENT. A resin kit in 1:350 scale with photoetch and white metal parts. No decals.
The Sturgeon class submarines were the follow on to the Thresher/Permit (SSN 593) class of SSNs, and attempted to address some of the shortcomings of the 593 class. The most prominent difference is the larger and taller sail on the Sturgeon class. The class was viewed as very successful, with 37 hulls built.
The BWN rendition is of the earlier "short hull" Sturgeons, which were 292 ft in length (SSN 678-684 and 687 were "long hulls" of 302 ft). The resin hull has a prominent pour plug that must be sanded off. The four torpedo tubes are represented by raised, elongated areas on either side of the hull (torpedo tubes exited from the hull sides as the bow was occupied with sonar). The model has a prominent fairing along the port side that represents a towed array tube; the modeler must complete this installation which extends over and is braced to the port stern plane. The early Sturgeons "as built" did not have the towed array tube. Detail and scribing are very good on the deck. Missing (and easily fabricated from thin styrene strip) are the four sacrificial "zincs" that are between the stern planes and rudder. Use the 7 bladed propeller for this kit. Overall a very good (and at this moment, the only one in this scale on the market) rendition of this very important class of US nuclear attack submarines.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Editor's Note: See also Allan Plumb's comments under Yankee Model Works' reissue, below.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Only a few small, easily filled bubbles in the resin, toward the bottom. Photo-etched brass parts are very fine indeed, and BWN gives you both a 5 blade and a 7 blade propeller. (nice touch, Mike!) Towed-array tube seems a bit big. Details are not perfect, but certainly better than I could scratchbuild. I compared the length of the kit to some figures in Friedman's "US submarines Since 1945: An Illustrated Design History", (ISBN 1-55750-260-9) and either the kit is not "truly" 1/350 scale, or it's about a quarter inch short. Given the shrinkage inherent in resin, I suspect the former. The master for the mold was probably a true 1/350. Still, it passes my "eyeball" test: It looks like the Thresher to me. One caveat: this kit does not include instructions in the conventional sense. You will need references to accurately place the control surfaces. This kit does not include decals. This kit dates back to about 1993. This kit is definitely not for beginners, but can be built into something very nice. (DRW)
GOOD. A 1:350 scale resin kit with white metal and photoetch brass, no decals.
The Thresher was the first of the US Navy's new deep diving (1300 ft test depth), quiet submarines, featuring rafted machinery spaces. Her loss on a test dive in April, 1963 was a severe blow to the Navy submarine program. The program was resumed (now designated Permit class (SSN 594) after Thresher's loss). Eventually a total of 14 were built of varying lengths and different sail heights. One, USS Jack, had twin contra-rotating propellers.
The kit represents Thresher herself. The hull has a pour plug that must be carefully removed. Topside scribing of details is very good, whereas the rest of the hull is bereft of details outside of the raised detail torpedo tubes. Unfortunately, the sail is too large to represent Thresher. The early Thresher/Permits were distinguished by their very small sails (to cut hydrodynamic drag). Also, the prominent portside towed array fairing that runs most of the hull was never fitted to Thresher, and the Permits received this modification late in their service lives. There is no indication in the instructions as to how to carry the towed array deploy tube out over the port stern planes. With these caveats in mind and a bit of research, one can with a bit of work make this kit into a very decent Permit class submarine model.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
GOOD. A 1:350 scale model in resin, with brass photoetch and white metal parts.
This is a resin kit of the advanced, high speed German "electroboot" developed during the waning days of WWII.
The kit is a good starter kit for someone new to resin models. The hull has a large pour plug along the keel that must be removed by careful sanding. Detail is very good, although the Balkon sonar under the bow does not have the hydrophones represented. Minor details such as capstan and cleat placements are off in placement, and the conning tower external access doors are also off slightly off in location. Overall, a very good model.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Casadio released this kit as:
It has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Notes: Apparently, Casadio released this kit as:
It has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See notes under King George V-class Also read Bert Atwood's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Note: See notes under Bismarck-class
Editor's Note: Re-issued by
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Casadio released this kit as:
It has been re-issued by:
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)
Apparently, they sold the resin model business some time back, (i.e. before 2015) and at last word, Blue Ridge Models had their molds.
Steve has shifted to publishing a series of reference books on ships and ship classes.
Their address was:
CLASSIC WARSHIPS
P.O. Box 57591
Tucson, AZ 85732
Phone/FAX: (520) 748-2992
Check out their web site.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's NoteFor comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. Very well cast resin parts with very little tearout and very few pinholes. The hull halves have no pour plugs per se and only require a quick sanding to dress the gluing faces. The hull size and shape does cause a differential shrinkage problem but it is easy to fix by cutting the first 2-3" off the lower hull bow. Line up the stern of the hull halves and glue them together, later glue the lower hull bow piece in place and fill the small gap with resin. Other than a slight width mismatch at the armor belt the hull halves were the same width. I fixed the armor belt with a little putty and sanding. One thing I am not fond of with CW kits is the wafer method of casting the smaller resin parts, I prefer a pour plug to cut off since it much more positive and requires less sanding. The splinter shields for the 5"-25's are a particular pain since you not only have to sand away the wafer but also cut portions of some of them away. The white metal parts were well cast and required minor clean up. The PE is very good. The instructions are hand drawn but very clear and easy to follow. With a little surgery and sometimes different AA guns, the kit can be modelled as any of the class for the early war period from late 1941 through mid-1943.
(RWS), Review dated 18 August 2007.
Editor's Note: This is apparently a re-issue of a Gulfstream kit.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) The California is in her 1941, Pearl Harbor fit. The original kit was released a few years ago by BWN and then by Iron Shipwright. Last year, the master pattern ended up in Steve's hands. However, Steve did not just re-release the kit, he revamped it to add more detail and make it more accurate.
The kit comes with separate hull and superstructure parts that will make painting much easier. He also added plating detail to the hull which really improves the appearance of the kit. The California had 3"/50 AA guns, however, these did not show up in the BWN or IS releases. However, the CW release includes beautifully executed replicas of these weapons. He replaced the 12 foot rangefinder on the uppermost bridge platform with the more correct CXAM radar, faithfully reproduced in photo-etch and white-metal. The kit also includes a set of range-finder clocks as photo-etched parts, which the California had until Oct. 1941. Finally, Steve did a wonderful job redoing the instructions. He has added pages and pages of detailed instruction on the kit assembly, a far cry from the four-pager that came with the original kit issues.
The resin casting is up to Steve's usually high standards and will require only a couple hours of prep, not bad for a kit this large (~21" long by ~3.5" wide) and this old. I am hard-pressed to find any air bubbles or noticable blemishes in the resin castings. In addition, the white metal parts are all excellent and won't require much clean-up. As a matter of fact, there is noexcess on the white metal and all that is required will be to remove the pouring plugs. It among the best white metal I have seen. As a final note, I did a parts count and did not find any part missing from the kit and every one of them is usable. This eliminates the need to call for replacement parts.
Kudos Steve. (KS)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: although Classic Warships is no longer producing kits I believe that the molds for this kit and their other 1/350 models are in the hands of Yankee Modelworks, the modeler should check their catalog listings to confirm.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with cast white metal parts, a decal sheet with extra numbers and photo etched detail parts included. There is, however, no brass rod or tubing included to fabricate the yards, etc., so the modeler must supply his own. Let me begin by saying that this is a very nice kit indeed. I don't model full hull ships so I really don't pay attention to how well the bottom piece fits the upper hull, all I can say is that both pieces were dead flat. The upper hull was cast up to the forecastle. Superstructure parts are all cast separately in order to be able to reflect differences between this kit and the Tennessee also made by Classic Warships at this time. My example had some bubbles coming up through the sides of the hull that were just visible, a couple actually broke the surface and will have to be filled with putty. There was also a lot of extraneous resin along the waterline that will require quite a bit of sanding to remove. Hull and deck detail was excellent with finely engraved planking lines where appropriate. On my kit some of the bollards were damaged during shipping or storage on the forecastle deck but are easily replaced with plastic rod stock. There was no warping or malformed parts to be found in the rest of the kit either. The remaining resin parts were cast on wafers which will be somewhat tedious to remove but less so than heavy overpour. Those parts have good surface detail as well. They have no flash or extraneous blobs of resin to remove other than the carrier wafer on the bottoms of the parts. Gun barrels are included in the white metal castings which overall are pretty good, with little to no flash and good surface detail. I am not, however crazy about the main battery barrels being cast in this way. The modeler would be well advised to seek out brass or aluminum turned barrels on the after market. One thing to note about the resin cast pieces is the quality and detail of the ship's boats. They are gorgeous little models in themselves.
If this kit is being made by Yankee Modelworks by all means seek it out as it is really very good.
Directions:: consist of a multi page booklet with text (in English) and hand drawn illustrations for the assembly process along with a parts inventory and small line drawings of the ship. The directions are actually quite good. Included with the PE frets is a very large plan view/line drawing of the ship that can assist in at least of rudimentary rigging plan. Very nicely done drawings and directions, unusual for a resin kit especially of this age.
Another interesting note about the directions in this kit is that the painting instructions call out the controversial 5N blue color scheme for vertical surfaces instead of the conventional 5D dark gray. The historical record of evidence for the 5N scheme is still unsettled.
Packaging: large heavy plain white cardboard box with no decoration. Small parts bagged in plastic, the hull and voids filled with crushed up newspapers.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
with cagemast
VERY GOOD. Very well cast resin parts with a minimal amount of tearout and very few pinholes. See my comments for the Brooklyn kit about the wafer casting style. The hull does have some differential shrinkage and the fix is the same as for Brooklyn, in fact the hulls are identical as the St. Louis class was simply an upgunned Brooklyn for the 5" DP guns. Very well cast white metal parts that required minimal clean up. Very good PE, the same fret as for the Brooklyn kit. The instructions are hand drawn but very clear and easy to follow. The kit can be modelled as either ship of the class from late 1941 through mid-1943 with minor surgery and AA upgrades.
(RWS), Review dated 18 August 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
w/ photo-etch
{CW026} lower hull kit
conversion - fits Tamiya Missouri.
w/ photo-etch
lower hull kit {CW022} (also for Yukikaze)
{CWO48} lower hull kit
OK I am favorably disposed to any 1/700 WW1 ship, so I looked forward to the Classic Warship Lion with great anticipation. The kit's shortcomings are minor with the exception of the beam, a very major problem indeed. I am not a nitpicker and am quite willing to fix minor errors, but the undersize beam is unacceptable. Reluctantly, I cannot recommend this kit. (RM)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: the molds for the Classic Warships 1/700 kits would now appear to be in the hands of Midship Models which has plans to reissue the catalog of Classic Warships kits. A product announcement I have seen of late indicates that the Nevada class kits may soon be forthcoming in retooled reissues. We can only hope that this is so as the kits were good when issued and if retooled could be spectacular.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model that includes both cast white metal and photo etch detail parts. There was no brass rod included for fabricating the masts in my kit so rod, tube or plastic stock will be needed to fabricate the tripods for the masts as well as other things such as yards, etc. The resin parts are all cast in dark yellow. The one piece hull which includes parts of the superstructure is well cast and very detailed. Planking detail is finely engraved. There were no malformations, dropouts, pinholes or miscast parts to the hull and superstructure. Actually, given the age of this kit I was quite surprised at how well the detail and casting was executed. My only criticism of the hull is that at the waterline it was a bit sloppy, with quite a bit of flash to be sanded off, certainly not a critical flaw, but an annoying one given the quality of the rest of the casting. The other resin parts have surface detail that runs the gamut from acceptable to excellent. There is, however, a fair amount of flash to be removed from the smaller parts. The cast metal parts, on the other hand, are well done with virtually no flash at all. The photo etch parts provided include platforms, catapults, crane and the antenna spars(?) for the forward observation/spotting structure. There is no railing included. A nice kit that can still be picked up from time to time on the after market, perhaps soon as a reissue from Midship Models.
Directions:: consist of two double sided pages. Page 1 is a set of general instructions for working with resin models written in English. Page 2, the reverse, consists of written instructions (in English) with dimensions for the mast structures and several line drawings of the assembly process for the forward superstructure and some rough sketches of the PE folds needed. Page 3 contains a brief history, statistics and generalized painting instructions. Page 4 contains two line drawings, one view of the starboard side and one overhead view. The directions, although four pages long are pretty basic, photos and plans would be really helpful to the modeler.
Packaging: heavy white cardboard box, with no decoration or markings, small parts in bags, hull in bubble wrap, box voids filled with peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by Midship Models in 2008.. (Reviewed by Bill Swan)
GOOD. Well cast resin parts but my example was from molds nearing the end of their life so there was a bit of tearout, not excessive however. Very few pinholes. See my comments for the Brooklyn kit for generic comments on wafer cast parts. As usual with large resin hulls there was a bit of differential shrinkage but the simple fix of cutting off the lower bow and filling the small gap with resin works well. The armor belt did not quite line up at the ends and had a width mismatch. I ground off the upper hull portion since it was wider and after gluing the hull together aaded a strip of styrene to the upper hull then faced the entire belt with .010" thick styrene sheet. Well cast white metal parts required minimal clean up. Good PE. The instructions are hand drawn but very clear and easy to follow. The kit provides optional parts for several other ships of the class.
(RWS), Review dated 18 August 2007.
GOOD/VERY GOOD (based on in box review)
Note: although Classic Warships is no longer producing kits I believe that the molds for this kit and their other 1/350 models are in the hands of Yankee Modelworks, the modeler should check their catalog listings to confirm.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with cast white metal parts, a decal sheet with extra numbers and photo etched detail parts included. There is, however, no brass rod or tubing included to fabricate the masts, yards, etc., so the modeler must supply his own. Let me begin by saying that this is a very nice kit indeed. I don't model full hull ships so I really don't pay attention to how well the bottom piece fits the upper hull, all I can say is that both pieces were dead flat with no overpour whatsoever to remove. The upper hull was cast as one with much of the superstructure of the kit. My example had some bubbles coming up through the sides of the hull that were just visible, a couple actually broke the surface and will have to be filled with putty. There was also a bit of extraneous resin along the waterline that was thicker than just flash but easily removed nonetheless. Hull and deck detail was excellent with finely engraved planking lines where appropriate. Gun shields in a couple of places were a little thick but on a par with an injection molded kit. A couple of bollards were pulled right out of the deck when the hull left the mold but are easily replaced with plastic rod stock. There was no warping or malformed parts to be find in the rest of the kit either. The remaining resin parts were cast on wafers which will be somewhat tedious to remove but less so than heavy overpour. Those parts have good surface detail as well. The two part main battery turrets will be a little tricky to get aligned. Gun barrels are included in the white metal castings which are pretty good, with little to no flash and good surface detail. I am not, however crazy about the main battery barrels being cast in this way. The modeler would be well advised to seek out brass or aluminum turned barrels on the after market. The photo etch is also very nicely done and includes two frets, one of railings and the other of lattice masts, platforms, radar, catapults, cranes, ladders and other delicate structures too light for resin or cast metal. The parts listed include some for alternative vessels in the class at the time appropriate.
Directions:: consist of a multi page booklet with text (in English) and hand drawn illustrations for the assembly process along with a parts inventory and small line drawings of the ship. The directions are actually quite good. Included with the PE frets is a very large plan view/line drawing of the ship that can assist in at least of rudimentary rigging plan. Very nicely done drawings and directions, unusual for a resin kit especially of this age.
Packaging: large heavy plain white cardboard box with no decoration. Small parts bagged in plastic, the hull and voids filled with crushed up newspapers.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Re-issued by Midship Models in 2008.. (Reviewed by Bill Swan)
{CWO51} lower hull kit
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943. Re-issued by Midship Models in 2008. . (Reviewed by Bill Swan)
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR: This kit builds a fairly nice model of the Sims class
destroyers. The kit represents the USS Hughes as she was outfitted at
Midway. The only critiques that I could make of the kit are that the
bridge structure is a scale 3 feet too long. The fix was to cut the
resin in two, sand a little material off and then epoxy the parts back
together, care is required not to take off too much. The only other
item is the modeling of the 02 level forward. The 20mm platforms, and
lower superstructure are molded on a base of resin; when attached to
the hull molding this arrangement creates a step that scales out to be
about 2 vertical feet not the smooth roundover into the deck the design
requires. I cut the 20mm platforms and the superstructure off and glued
them directly to the hull molding to create a better look. (BR)
w/ photo-etch
{CW024} lower hull kit
VERY GOOD: Nice casting, white metal parts are well done. Resin blocks are a bit of a hassle to sand off, do it carefully! No masts or 20mm guns are provided, add aftermarket parts and brass rod, addittional photo etch will make it stand out. (JC)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these other New Orleans class resin kits:
w/ photo-etch
w/ photoetch
EXCELLENT - CN is a Chinese company of which I know nothing about other than this kit. The Alfa class subs (now out of commission) were an attempt to build a super-fast (45 kts) nuclear sub capable of sortying for area defense. They are quite small compared to other Russian subs (30 man crew). This kit comes with an extensive set of motor and magnetic parts making it capable of not only moving but submerging. However, there are alternate parts included to make it a purely static kit. As you can imagine, there are few parts, but surface detail is extensive, there is little flash, parts are molded crisply, and go together very well. Drain holes on both the sides and bottom of the hull are cut out. Decal sheet includes set for a Dallas class attack sub, so there must be at least another CN kit out there somewhere. This is a must-have for anyone building the Trumpeter Sovremenny, since its the only other 1/200 Russian kit available, will go together quickly, and can fit in the same display case as the DDG. (DH)
EXCELLENT. Converts to static model like CN's Alfa class. Appears to be exact DML 1/350 remold but with more detail. The VLS missile doors are cast molded in the top hull, with the option to build 688 improved with bow mounted planes and 2 extra stern fin rudders.Comes with decals, instructions are in Chinese with numbered illustrations. Box is completely in Chinese, even address.
I purchased this off of the internet. The seller bought these in a Chinese hobby store while on vacation from Hawaii. A great large scale addition to any model sub collection! Apparently this is not in the U.S. markets, yet. (BMP)
EXCELLENT: Motorized, converts to a static display. Appears to be a remold of DML's 1/350 scale Dallas with VLS doors molded in to the top of the hull, bow mounted hydroplanes, Seawolf style sail with 2 extra aft stern rudder fins and jet pump shroud that goes over the propeller. Also included are bay doors that run along each side of the hull which apparently depict the SEAL advanced delivery system. Instructions are in Chinese with numbered illustrations. Entire box is in Chinese, even address, comes with decals.
Purchased off the internet from a Hawaiian who bought this in a Chinese hobby shop while vacationing in China. Apparently this is not YET in U.S markets. Nice large scale addition to any large scale sub collection. (BMP)
Editor's note: The Virginia class was still building when this model was released, so any model of it must be speculative. (JP)
This company started in the early 1990s. At first, they made 1/35 scale resin
tanks. Their first ship kit, Peter Velikiy, was
released around 1995. The have since expanded their line considerably, with
a large number of Soviet/Cold War era ships, and numerous Russian and British
ships from the Steel Navy and World War I eras.
Combrig website
For more information, please contact Combrig email.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded, flash free resin parts with no photo-etch or metal parts included. Many small parts that are well crafted will be challenging to prepare and build, especially the starfish. One piece hull with finely detailed deck fixtures and planking. Excellent painting skills will be needed to preserve all of this fine detail. Hull scales out correctly as to length and beam. Although masts and yards are provided in resin the stress of rigging with the complex scheme appropriate will require substitution with metal rod or tube.
Directions:: two double sided pages in Russian; page one consists of a photo inventory of kit parts, painting instructions using WEM Colourcoats paints, nicely detailed line drawings from side and overhead views, a brief history, and basic statistics. Page two contains exploded views of subassemblies and main assembly that are far superior to the type of diagrams provided in previous kits. A basic rigging plan could be executed from a review of the line drawings if you were so inclined.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a foam wrap around the hull to minimize breakage, no peanuts, small parts jumbled up in a baggy, breakage a real possibility. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Another unique subject long sought after.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1918.
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: reboxed Duncan, Combrig kit #70265 .
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes: Box art claims the ship to be in 1901 configuration, however, contents appear to be exactly the same as the Vengeance (Combrig #70448). While this may be accurate to the degree noticeable in 700 scale I recommend vigorous pursuit of one’s references before beginning construction.
As to all other remarks regarding this kit please see my review of the Vengeance.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin model with PE fret. One piece resin hull that is flawless, highly detailed and beautifully engraved. PE fret contains spars, boat chocks, catapult, grids, anchor chain and other numerous small parts. Decals for range clocks also included. All other resin parts are cast on ultra thin wafer and pour plugs or stubs. All are highly detailed. No flash is found on any of these parts and all are easily removed from their respective casting agents. If you wish to rig this ship you would be well advised to substitute metal rod or tubing for the provided resin masts. Very nice kit of a magnificent cruiser.
Directions:: one double sided page with a brief history,basic statistics and beautiful line drawings of side and overhead views. The reverse side has a photo inventory/parts list and an exploded view assembly diagram adequate to build the kit.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper box with photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts are bagged and box is crammed with peanuts to minimize movement.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
FAIR.. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this battleship was one of those odd shallow draft vessels intended for coastal defense. Nonetheless, it took part in the battle of Tsushima in the Russo Japanese War and was undamaged in the battle. However, it was forced to surrender to the Japanese with the remnants of the Russian fleet afterward. She was renamed by the Japanese Okinoshima.
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: see Combrig #70129 Adm. Ushakov.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov Class.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. The model box depicts her during the war whereas the legend states that the kit is of her in 1928. I believe that the kit is of her around 1941ish the kits instructions are particularly confusing when it comes to the seaplane turntable it should actually slide over the deckhouse (into the cut in the turntable) don't be tempted to place it on the end of the deckhouse aft of the third funnel as the catapult will foul on the funnel itself. I re-built the masts using stretched sprue as the supplied resin parts were a bit flimsy. I can recommend the WEM County class photo etch (originally for HMS Sussex but the bits still fit) I also bought WEM's 4" gun turrets to replace those in the kit they are much more accurate than those supplied. Hull and deck detail are excellent with even the knuckle in the bow accurately represented.
Overall a good kit Combrig's instructions are a bit vague as always but she builds up into a nice representation you will however need a PE fret to make this kit look its best. (AMS), review dated 31 August 2005
Editor's Note: Presumably, a variant of Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Note: with all kits that state a specific date that the kit is supposed to represent I would caution the modeler to verify with period photographs or plans before accepting the kit maker's claim. This kit purports to show HMS Benbow in 1914. The photo, line drawings and directions all omit anti-torpedo net and boom assemblies which may not be correct for the claimed time period, I am not sure if this ship was so equipped in 1914. I was not able to find any photographs of Benbow from 1914 during a brief internet search but would like to raise the issue so that the prospective modeler will think to check it out before starting.
Kit Parts:This is a resin kit that includes a fret of brass photo etch of ship specific parts. There are no railings included. The photo etch fret includes such items as boat chocks, platform braces, platforms, grilles, chains and mast hardware. The hull is a single piece casting that goes up to the forecastle deck. The casting is simply outstanding. The planking detail is so fine as to be almost invisible! The modeler will have to exercise the greatest care in painting so as not to lose this exquisite detail to heavy coats of paint. The remaining resin parts are beautifully cast with no flash and easily removed from the casting plugs, pours or wafers. Beware that this kit is loaded with very tiny parts used to detail the deck and will require a great deal of patience to properly glue and place.
This is not simply a rebox of the Iron Duke kit. Alternate parts to differentiate the superstructure and masts are supplied in this kit.
As with all resin kits and most plastic ones you really should use brass rod or tubing to construct the masts and yards. You can do it with the parts provided but you will not be able to rig the vessel as those parts will be too delicate. If you are like me and don't rig the ships ‘cause your team of trained spiders ran away to the circus, the delicacy of the parts is only an issue if you are a klutz. I would suggest that before attempting this kit that you have a couple of resin kits under your belt. That being said, any competent modeler can make this kit into a stunning example of the art.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Iron Duke Class"
Editor's Note: Presumably, Combrig's Borodino-class pre-dreadnought kits are all closely related.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: Kit is declared to be as built in 1893. The photograph provided shows the ship without anti-torpedo defenses which is probably the way he was delivered to the HSF. If you want to build this vessel in full 19th century or early pre-war rig you will need to fabricate parts for the anti-torpedo netting, shelves, booms and boom rigging.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model that includes a photo etch fret for inclined ladders, vertical ladders, anchor chain, platform braces and ship’s boats platform braces. Resin parts are molded in medium gray resin. All resin parts are crisply molded with no flash, excepting of course, those parts molded onto a thin sheet of resin (mostly platforms and superstructure decks). Light sanding will free these pieces from their carrier. There is a plethora of tiny, delicate resin cast parts in this kit. Great care will be needed to keep from breaking them when you remove them from their casting plugs. The one piece hull is a truly gorgeous casting. This tiny hull is just crammed full of detail. While planking is etched into the deck in continuous lines without butt ends the rest of the detail is marvelous. Combrig has cast into the deck numerous hatches and coal scuttles typical of vessels of this period. While these will be a bear to paint it is great to see them on a kit this small. Masts and yards are cast in resin and should be replaced with brass rod or steel tubing if you wish to rig this ship. If not, they are perfectly fine the way they are.
Directions: typical Combrig consisting of two one-sided black and white sheets. The first has a starboard side drawing of the ship with a pattern of basic rigging and an overhead drawing view showing placement of the ship’s boats. It also contains a history of the class and some statistics on armament and equipment. The second page consists of a fuzzy photographic inventory of parts and line drawings showing parts placement. While the drawings themselves are clear they are also rudimentary. You can build the kit with them but prior experience in this era ship would be very valuable.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. Once again, miraculously, no parts in my kit were broken.
This is an excellent kit for the HSF fan but some experience in resin would be a big plus.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Britiannia is a King Edward VII class battleship so shares an almost identical set of parts and directions with Combrig kit #70289. Different parts and assembly instructions are included for the variances in funnel and mast assemblys. All remarks same as King Edward VII model.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1906.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and caveats: box art states that the kit represents Caesar in 1898 and features a black and white photo of the ship in World War I gray. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme. Almost all of the parts in this kit are the same as those found in the Majestic, Combrig #70441, however, a few parts for the stack vents, main mast and foremast are different and conform to the slightly different line drawing provided.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. Deck detail is quite well rendered with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. Another nice feature of the deck detail is the well executed differentiation between the areas of wood and metal deck (including finely rendered texturing) under the sweep of the main battery guns.
The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely well done and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary. Ship’s boats, particularly the larger ones are very well done as are the many ventilators.
A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations: there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets, shelves and booms. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts. Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
PACKAGING: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. None of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of an intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: See also notes under Majestic-class.
EXCELLENT. (In-box review) Superb kit full of detail hull and deck detail is particularly good. Instructions are a great improvement on previous Combrig efforts.
Go get it before stocks sell out! Highly recommended.
(AMS), review dated 1 September 2005.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Kronstadt. (Kresta II-class)
Editor's Note: Presumably, Frunze is similar.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: parts and assembly diagrams essentially the same as HMS Orion, Combrig kit #70259, as this is an Orion class battleship, however parts and diagrams are included for the differences in the aft superstructure.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with two frets of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, boat chocks and some things so small I haven’t been able to figure them out yet! Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. One of the more interesting details is the molded in stairwells going down into the lower level of the ship, nicely done! There is no planking detail as French ships of this period did not have planked decks. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with one sheet of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. This is a truly beautiful kit of a rare subject. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is truly a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and exploded view drawings of the assembly process. Using the locator points on the hull and these drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme.
Painting Note: the painting for this ship is going to be something of a research puzzle for the builder. Sources of this information are scarce, especially if the modeler does not speak French.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about (none too successfully).
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1911.
Close variants of this kit have been issued as:
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
It is a great time to be a ship modeler. Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought that a model would become available of a French World War 1 era pre-dreadnought in 1/350 scale, or any large scale for that matter! Let’s just say that Combrig scores big with the subject matter.
Parts: this is a resin model with photo etched brass parts. The resin parts, in medium gray, are cleanly cast with little to no flash. Surface detail is, I suspect, somewhat minimal but I am not exactly sure what additional detail is appropriate. I haven’t been able to find any close up photos of the superstructure yet. Some parts are cast on thin wafers and others have large plugs to saw off with a razor saw. None appear to be difficult to remove from the wafers or plugs. There doesn’t appear to be any warping or malformed parts either. I can’t help but feel that this is an upscaling of their 1/700 scale offering (Combrig kit no. 70407). The photo etch does not include railings which you will have to buy on the after market. I am only aware of a generic pre-dreadnought railing set from Atlantic Models as of this writing. What the PE provided does include is a plethora of platforms, platform supports and boat chocks. There are also anchor chains and crane rigging supports as well as inclined ladders/railing and without. There are also a number of tiny parts that I haven’t figured out yet. The brass is of the hard variety.
Let’s get back to the resin for a moment. The hull is hollow cast rather than solid like most resin kits. It bears a striking resemblance to the old one piece battleship hulls from the big four Japanese manufacturers in the 1970s. That being said some deck equipment is cast in, others have locator markings to ease placement of the resin and photo etch parts. The decks of these ships were covered in scuttles or hatches for coaling. There are faint outlines on the deck to represent them although, it doesn’t seem like enough of them. The decks of Danton were steel and were not planked which is correctly represented in the kit. My kit was not cut exactly at the waterline but rather has about a quarter inch of material that needs to be removed along an incised line. I suggest cross bracing of the hull to avoid the possibility of warping.
Directions: always a weak spot in resin kits and there is no glory here. The directions consist of two double sided pages of line drawings. The first page has starboard side and overhead views with a rudimentary rigging plan. The page of drawings also hosts vital statistics and a canned history of the vessel (all in Russian). The flip side is a photographic inventory of the box contents. Page two’s front consists of three panels of line drawings showing placement of main and secondary batteries, assembly and placement of cranes and placement of the main ship’s boats. The reverse basically shows everything else. Placement of many of the parts is somewhat vague to say the least. There are no painting instructions.
Packaging: thin cardboard box with a black and white photo of the ship on the top. PE is bagged and slipped under an inner cardboard box that contains bags of resin parts. The bags are loose in the box and rattle around inside. Miraculously none of them were broken. The hull is loose in the box also but surrounded with foam peanuts.
I confess to being somewhat disappointed in this kit as I had high expectations because of many of this company’s outstanding 1/700 offerings. This one was not done by the A team. Nonetheless I believe it will build into a decent model of a truly rare subject. It is not for the first time resin builder, although lots of expertise isn’t needed. A couple of resin projects before this one will be enough preparation.
(WJS), review dated 24 January 2012.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded, flash free resin parts with a single sheet of photo-etch consisting of decks, platforms, grates, supports, anchor chains and misc. small parts but no railings. Lots of very tiny and/or delicate parts, may be difficult for some to remove from pour stubs or to attach to the model. Overall kit is very nicely finished with terrific detail. Single piece hull with superb deck fixtures and planking. Will require careful painting to preserve all this rich detail. Hull scaled out correctly in length and beam. Masts and yards provided in resin should be replaced with metal rods or tubes if rigging this ship for added strength.
Directions:: two double sided pages in English; page one consists of a photo inventory of kit parts, painting instructions using WEM Colourcoats paints, nicely detailed line drawings from side and overhead views, a brief history, basic statistics and an additional photo of the actual ship. Page two contains exploded views of subassemblies and main assembly that are far superior to the type of diagrams provided in previous kits. A basic rigging plan could be executed from a review of the line drawings if you were so inclined.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts all thrown into a single baggy that rattles around in the box.
Quality kit long needed in the marketplace.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1906.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Admiral Zozulya. (Project 1134/Kresta I Class)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin, no photo-etch or white metal parts, one piece hull with most of the superstructure incorporated. very detailed and cleanly molded with no discernable flash, sinkholes or pinholes. small parts on thick pour stubs and somewhat thick wafer for the deck pieces, promises to be more difficult to remove without damage than more recent offerings from Combrig. quite a few tiny parts so sharpen up those tweezers. Rigging will most certainly require changing out the resin masts and spars with metal rod or tubing, however, this won't be necessary if you decide to forgoe the pleasure of trying to outdo a spider and rig this ship. length at waterline dead on but beam is quite a bit too large and would be noticable if anyone else made a model of this class that was properly dimensioned and put it along side (like that is going to happen).
Directions:: the usual single sheet of double sided paper with detailed line drawings of side and overhead views accompanied by basic statistics, a brief history and painting directions, all in English on the one side and on the other a photo inventory of kit parts and exploded assembly plan. kit isn't complex enough for this to be a problem in building this model unless you want to rig it with the cloud of lines that this ship would normally have.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts all thrown into a single baggy that rattles around in the box.
Nice kit but I am a little concerned about the beam dimensions.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Russell, Montagu, and Albemarle, are similar.
Editor's Note: Presumably, a variant of the Sverdlov-Class kit. (Project 68bis)
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: see my review of Combrig #70403 HMS Marlborough as the kits appear to be identical.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Iron Duke Class"
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded mostly flash free (some along the waterline of the hull) parts with a single sheet of photo-etch with a few needed small parts but no railings. Many tiny and delicate parts that will require extra skill to remove from the pour stubs and attach them to the model itself. Great detail on all parts, especially the one piece hull, very fine detail will challenge your painting skills to preserve the deck planking. Hull scales out with less than 2% deviation in length at the waterline and virtually right on for the beam. Should you wish to rig this ship with the complex scheme that is appropriate for it you should replace the supplied resin masts and yards with metal tube or rod.
Directions:: two double sided pages in English; page one consists of a photo inventory of kit parts, painting instructions using WEM Colourcoats paints, nicely detailed line drawings from side and overhead views, a brief history, and basic statistics. Page two contains exploded views of subassemblies and main assembly that are far superior to the type of diagrams provided in previous kits. A basic rigging plan could be executed from a review of the line drawings if you were so inclined.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a foam wrap around the hull to minimize breakage, no peanuts, small parts in a jumbled up baggy, breakage real possibility. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Unique subject matter long sought after.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1906.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my remarks for Combrig kit #70419, SMS Prinzregent Luitpold, as the kit contents are nearly identical. Changes in the superstructure from Luitpold are reflected in the parts content and directions.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kaiser Class
EXCELLENT, with a caveat. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is essentially the same as the Combrig #70196, Brandenburg. There is some differentiation in main and foremast platforms. All other remarks are the same with the exception of the directions. While the second sheet of the directions does reflect the platform differences it contains only a single blow up drawing of the assembly of the parts and inexplicably leaves out the placement of the boats and boat platform braces. It would be best to obtain a copy of the Brandenburg’s directions for this function. I believe they may be on line at Combrig’s site. The lack of placement directions for these braces will make this kit REALLY hard to finish. I don’t understand such an omission.
This is a serious fault in an otherwise excellent kit.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Grozny. (Kynda-class)
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Chapaev-Class. (Project 68)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this is a recently issued kit from this maker and shows just how good they can be. It also serves to illustrate that a low stock number does not mean an early issue kit.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit in medium gray. There is no photo etch included. You will need to supplement the kit parts with brass rod for the masts and yards as I think that the provided resin parts are too delicate. The one piece hull is very finely cast and molded with no defects whatsoever. It has good surface detail and finely engraved planking (no provision for the various coal chutes and other paraphernalia found on ships of this era). All other parts are well detailed and molded without flash or any readily observable defects. Davits are delicately detailed and molded. Ship's boats are also well detailed. Except for the boat deck the parts are cast on plugs and bars and are easily removed with a miniature razor saw. The boat deck is cast on a thin resin wafer which can be sanded or cut off. The parts are so small and delicate that I noted several broken from moving around in the box. A nicely done but tiny model.
Directions:: one double sided sheet that contains on the front ship statistics in Russian, a brief history (for a brief life) in English and Russian and two simplified line drawings, one starboard view the other an overhead view. There is additional text at the bottom right in Russian. The back side consists of a photographic parts inventory and a single drawing showing the assembly process. While this will be sufficient to assemble the parts included it won't help with anything else, like rigging or painting.
Packaging: as was said on Monty Python; "and now for something completely different." In this case it really is. The usual flimsy folded white paper box has been replaced with a cardboard box similar to those found in injection molded kits! Box top art is a black and white photocopied photo of the real ship. Small parts are in a plastic bag, the hull loose in the bottom surrounded by foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1894.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. Hull is a one piece casting in medium gray resin. It will require some cleanup along the waterline. Some detail cast into the hull is overscale. Aztec steps make their appearance. Deck is missing the longitudinal breaks between the planks peculiar to Russian dreadnoughts. These can be penciled in after painting the deck but you will need a lot of skill and patience to do so. The deck is also missing many of the hatches/coal scuttles shown in the overhead line drawings. I suppose you could simulate them with drops of white glue but it would be difficult to keep them uniform and in the right places. Other parts are cast in a variety of colors on a combination of wafers and pour stubs. They have good detail but have quite a bit of flash to be removed. You will need to fabricate upper masts, yards, booms flag staffs and torpedo net equipment (not to mention the actual rolled netting). This is a somewhat disappointing ship model that will require quite a bit of extra work to make it look right.
Directions:: typical Combrig, one double sided page which includes a photo parts inventory, exploded view assembly diagram, brief history with technical data (all in Russian) and painting instructions in English.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. The hull is foam wrapped, the rest of the parts bagged but no packing material so everything rattles together.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Apparently, the Gangut kit portrays the ship in 1914.
Presumably, Petropavlovsk is very similar, and Oktyabrskaya Revolutsia, and Parizhskaya Communa are related.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Grozny. (Kynda-class)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my review and notes concerning Combrig kit #70419, SMS Prinzregent Luitpold, as the ships are of the same class and share the same characteristics if not the same parts. There are many differences between the kits that reflect the differences in the actual vessels. This is not a simple re-boxing of Prinzregent Luitpold as a sister ship. Interestingly, the photo chosen as the box top art would seem to indicate the time being 1913 and shows the ship clearly having torpedo nets, platforms and booms, yet the line drawings and directions do not.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kaiser Class
Editor's Notes: NATO code-name Kynda. Presumably, the following kits are closely related:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and Caveats: This kit has identical parts to the Majestic, Combrig #70441. The only differences being in the artwork and canned history. Please see my remarks and review of that kit for details. In this scale minor differences between classmates may not appear to be significant but before building I advise checking references closely.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: See also notes under Majestic-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with regard to the dates printed on the box tops and on the drawings in the directions of this and other Combrig kits the modeler needs to do some research before adopting that date as “Gospel”. One of the things that comes up with warships of this era is the use of anti-torpedo nets and booms. These booms would have cluttered up the sides of capital ships early in WW1 and were only discarded later in the war. If the modeler wishes to portray his kit at a specific date he needs to check on whether or not that ship had the nets and booms at the time portrayed. This, in many cases will take more than a casual trip to the internet. Many photos of WW1 vessels, especially the Central Powers ships are either not dated or incorrectly dated so, builder beware! I prefer, if at all possible, to model my ships without the booms and nets, personal preference.
The box top photo of the ship clearly shows the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms not present, however the line drawings but not the directions show them in place.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with one fret of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, davits, ship’s boats rudders and some parts that appear to be platforms for the anti-torpedo net stowage. There also appears to be some resin parts that may be the booms. The use of these parts is not referenced in the directions (but is noted in the line drawings ????) so placement is unknown. Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. The planking detail on the deck is extremely fine and will require care in painting not to obscure. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with some sheets of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. This is a truly beautiful kit. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include simplified rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page as is a brief history of the ship. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and an exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Using the page 1 line drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit, some parts placement may be vague. The line drawings but not the assembly instructions note the use or placement of the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme. Directions in Combrig kits are not as good as some other manufacturers, but with care can be used successfully.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about.
You may wish to compare this kit review to that of the H-P Models #G-011 SMS Oldenburg, another Helgoland Class ship.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1911. Variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin kit with included PE fret consisting of boat chocks, braces, cranes, chains, and other small detail parts. One piece resin hull with incorporated lower superstructure that is beautifully detailed and flawless. Other parts are on pour plugs and wafers that are easily removed. Very nice kit that is wonderfully detailed, especially amazing considering the tiny size of this ship. You may want to substitute metal rod or tubing for strength in the masts and spars to rig the ship in its appropriate cloud of lines.
Directions:: one double sided page consisting of line drawings of side and overhead views, a brief history and basic statistics, in Russian. The other side is a photo parts inventory and an exploded view assembly diagram that is clear and easy to use. You will need other references to rig this ship.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper box with photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts are bagged and box is crammed with peanuts to minimize movement.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
VERY GOOD-EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Notes and caveats: Box art states that the kit represents Hood in 1893 and features a black and white photo of the ship in Victorian livery in what appears to be in an all white or very light gray scheme. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in a very dark gray, not Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. The extremely low freeboard of this class is readily apparent and well rendered. Deck detail is quite well rendered as well with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. Another nice feature of the hull/deck casting is the provision of locator holes for some of the additional deck detail, a feature not always found on Combrig kits.
The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The wafer in this kit was quite thin but also quite warped so after removing the various decks it will be necessary for a quick dip in hot water to restore the original straight and level configuration (at least it is a technique that usually works for thin parts). The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely fine and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary, unless of course you break them getting them off the stubs. Ship’s boats, particularly the larger ones are very well done as are the many ventilators.
A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations (VERY early war, as by August 1914 Hood was already on the disposal list and was used for various experiments): there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets or shelves, however, parts for the booms are provided. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts, the parts included for them being far too delicate (mine were pretty warped as well). A team of highly motivated, trained spiders are what is really needed to rig this tiny ship! Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
PACKAGING: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. None of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of a intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions, Packaging and Production Notes, please see my remarks for Combrig #70226 RIN Slava. This is not however, a rebox of the same kit. There are significant differences between them that are reflected in the kit parts and directions.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1904. See also notes under Borodino Class.
GOOD.. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging same remarks as Combrig #70216, RIN Imp. Maria. Structural differences between this ship and the Maria are reflected in the kit parts and directions, so it is not an identical rebox of the Maria kit.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See notes under Imperatritza Maria-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This ship was a participant in the battle of Tsushima in the Russo Japanese War, suffered minor damage but subsequently surrendered to the Japanese forces and was renamed Iki.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin model molded in a khaki color. One piece hull incorporates lower superstructure and is nicely detailed. All other parts have good surface detail and no flash. Cast on ultra thin wafers and pour stubs the parts appear to be easy to remove. While all necessary parts to assemble the masts and yards are provided in resin it would be best to substitute metal rod or tubing for at least the upper masts and yards as well as the crane booms. Nice overall kit that will build into a satisfying model.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history ( in this case in English and Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1891
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This class of ship was unique in that it was built with cage masts similar to the American practice at the time.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with a supplementary fret of photo etched detail parts. Resin parts are cast in a greenish-gray color. Very finely detailed one piece hull incorporates lower superstructure and is flawlessly cast. All other resin pieces are cast on a combination of very thin wafers and pour plugs or stubs. They have good surface detail and no flash. Care will have to be taken to avoid damaging some of these delicate parts from their casting medium, but no extraordinary effort will be needed. PE fret consists of platforms, starfish, braces, cranes, pulley assemblies, grills and cage masts. The kit features alternative mast assembly parts & instructions for cage or "military" masts. This is a very nice kit that I highly recommend.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history ( in this case in Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanut
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1906.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging same remarks as Combrig #70216, RIN Imp. Maria. Structural differences between this ship and the Maria are reflected in the kit parts and directions, so it is not an identical rebox of the Maria kit, it is almost identical to the Alexander III kit (dreadnought type not the pre-dreadnought Borodino).
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See notes on Imperatritza Maria-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with additional frets of photo etch detail parts. Hull is cleanly cast with lots of detail but oddly lacking the distinctive longitudinal breaks in the deck planking typical of Russian dreadnoughts of this period. With patience and skill you could pencil in these lines after painting (will be difficult to keep straight though). The deck is also missing the mobs of coal scuttles and hatches plainly shown on the included overhead line drawing. Once again these could be simulated by drops of white glue as long as you did a good job plotting them out and had excellent skills in keeping them uniform in size. The other parts are well molded with little to no flash. The enclosed PE frets contain railings, ladders, braces, cranes and grills. You will almost certainly wish to replace the resin masts and yards with metal rod or tubing. If Combrig would have gotten the details on the deck right this would have been an excellent kit not merely a good one.
Directions:: typical Combrig, one double sided page which includes a photo parts inventory, exploded view assembly diagram, brief history with technical data (all in Russian) and painting instructions.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Imperatritza Ekaterina Velikaya and Imperator Aleksandr III are similar.
EXCELLENT. (Based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of Combrig #70249 HMS Invincible as they are almost identical kits. However, differences in the ships are accounted for in the parts and directions so this is not simply a rebox.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (Based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of Combrig #70249 HMS Invincible as they are almost identical kits. However, differences in the ships are accounted for in the parts and directions so this is not simply a rebox.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of photo etch brass for detailing. The brass fret does not include railings but does have such items as chains, superstructure parts, chocks, platforms, some ladders, platform supports and mast hardware. The resin, a medium gray, castings are flash free and highly detailed. The hull casting which includes a part of the lower superstructure is amazing. The planking is so fine as to be almost invisible. The deck is crammed with detail which is supplemented to the nth degree with additional castings of a myriad of small parts that will boggle the mind. All manner of vents, reels and other deck hardware are finely cast onto thin runners. You will need a great deal of patience and time to deal with all this detail. Great care will also have to be taken in painting so as not to obscure all of this fantastic work. The hull is smooth cast on the sides so that if you wish to install the torpedo net booms you will need to consult good photographs for exact placement. There were no parts specifically called out in the directions for these booms, so you may need some plastic stock or wire to create the booms. Their placement is not dealt with in the kit directions but it would appear from the edge of the deck that there are locator indentations for the booms. As usual I suggest constructing the masts and yards out of brass wire or tubing if you wish to rig the ship, if not use the kit supplied resin parts. Other parts are cast on thin resin wafers which appear easy to remove. All gun barrels are cast in resin and look quite good. Brass or aluminum turnings would be nice but aren't necessary for these kits. I do not recommend this kit for beginners because of the numerous tiny parts.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with all kits that state a specific date that the kit is supposed to represent I would caution the modeler to verify with period photographs or plans before accepting the kit maker’s claim. This kit purports to show Iron Duke in 1918 so the photo, line drawings and directions all omit anti-torpedo net and boom assemblies which would be correct for the claimed time period.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of brass photo etch of ship specific parts. There are no railings included. The photo etch fret includes such items as boat chocks, platform braces, platforms, grilles, chains and mast hardware. The hull is a single piece casting that goes up to the forecastle deck. The casting is simply outstanding. The planking detail is so fine as to be almost invisible! The modeler will have to exercise the greatest care in painting so as not to lose this exquisite detail to heavy coats of paint. The remaining resin parts are beautifully cast with no flash and easily removed from the casting plugs, pours or wafers. The modeler should beware that this kit is jam packed with tiny, tiny parts and will require a lot of patience to glue and place them. You may wish to have some photographs of the actual vessel to be sure that you get this placement right. As with all resin kits and most plastic ones you really should use brass rod or tubing to construct the masts and yards. You can do it with the parts provided but you will not be able to rig the vessel as those parts will be too delicate. If you are like me and don’t rig the ships ‘cause your team of trained spiders ran away to the circus, the delicacy of the parts is only an issue if you are a klutz. I would suggest that before attempting this kit that you have a couple of resin kits under your belt. That being said, any competent modeler can make this kit into a stunning example of the art.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much. Well, that's the theorey, on my kit the hull rattled around a bit and broke off parts along the edge, mostly bollards.
(WJS), review dated 17 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1918. Variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Combrig did not make a kit of the SMS Kaiser herself. They have issued kits of the following Kaiser-class battleships:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my remarks for Combrig kit #70419, SMS Prinzregent Luitpold, as the kit contents are nearly identical. Changes in the superstructure from Luitpold are reflected in the parts content and directions.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kaiser Class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: beautifully molded, finely detailed model of a much needed subject. Another crisp example of Combrig's latest offerings. whoever is doing the molding and casting of these kits is doing a fantastic job. one piece hull with incorporated lower superstructure. all resin kit with no photo-etched or white metal parts included. all parts other than hull jumbled together in the same baggy subjecting them to possible damage. parts are all cleanly cast on ultra thin wafers or easily removed pour plugs. Masts and yards will need to be replaced with metal rod or tubing for strength.
Hull measurements scale out for beam but come up a tad short (2.5%) on length, nobody will notice.
Directions:: One double sided sheet with the front containing side and overhead line drawings that are nicely detailed, better than some other kits. front also contains basic statistics and a brief history but text is all in Russian. No painting or rigging instructions given in English (don't know about the Russian text). Reverse contains exploded view assembly instructions and photos of all parts that are supposed to be in the box. Assembly instructions along with line drawings appear adequate to make the model and even do a basic rigging job but certainly not a full blown rigging plan.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Another great ship model from Combrig.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1905.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with regard to the dates printed on the box tops and on the drawings in the directions of this and other Combrig kits the modeler needs to do some research before adopting that date as "Gospel". One of the things that comes up with warships of this era is the use of anti-torpedo nets and booms. These booms would have cluttered up the sides of capital ships early in WW1 and were only discarded later in the war. If the modeler wishes to portray his kit at a specific date he needs to check on whether or not that ship had the nets and booms at the time portrayed. This, in many cases will take more than a casual trip to the internet. Many photos of WW1 vessels, especially the Central Powers ships are either not dated or incorrectly dated so, builder beware! I prefer, if at all possible, to model my ships without the booms and nets, personal preference.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with one fret of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, davits and some parts that appear to be platforms for the anti-torpedo net stowage. There also appears to be some resin parts that may be the booms. The use of these parts is not referenced in the sketches so placement is unknown. Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. The planking detail on the deck is extremely fine and will require care in painting not to obscure. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with some sheets of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. This is a truly beautiful kit. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include simplified rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page as is a brief history of the ship. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and an exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Using the page 1 line drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit, some parts placement may be vague. Neither the line drawings or assembly instructions note the use or placement of the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme. Directions in Combrig kits are not as good as some other manufacturers, but with care can be used successfully.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008. Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1914.
This kit, or at least close variants of it, has been released as:
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my review and notes concerning Combrig #70241 Kaiser-class as the ships are of the same class and share the same characteristics if not the same parts. There are many differences between the kits that reflect the differences in the actual vessels. This is not a simple re-boxing of Konig as a sister ship. Interestingly, the photo chosen as the box top art would seem to indicate the time being 1913 and shows the ship clearly having torpedo nets, platforms and booms, yet the line drawings and directions do not.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Kresta II", Soviet code name "Berkut A". Presumably, Marshal Voroshilov, Vasilij Chapaev, and Admiral Makarov are similar.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my review and notes concerning Combrig #70241 SMS König as the ships are of the same class and share the same characteristics if not the same parts. There are many differences between the kits that reflect the differences in the actual vessels. This is not a simple re-boxing of Konig as a sister ship. Interestingly, the photo chosen as the box top art would seem to indicate the time being 1913 and shows the ship clearly having torpedo nets, platforms and booms, yet the line drawings and directions do not.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov/Kirov Class
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same as Moscow.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: Please see my review and notes of Combrig #70279, HMS Princess Royal, as the parts included are identical.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Variants of this kit have been issued as
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit that includes a photo etch fret that contains ship specific hardware such as platforms, chains, boat chocks, braces, walkways and grilles. There are no railings included. The resin parts are molded in a gray-green material that is flash free. The hull and most of the superstructure are molded in one beautifully cast piece. This company has been able to achieve incredible results in the casting of the small parts, some so small as to be like a hair. There is plenty of detail to satisfy just about any critic. The only thing I would have to say is that you should be prepared to handle incredibly small pieces. I have had to customize some of my tweezers to handle parts like this. In order to keep these tiny pieces from windging off into the carpet I cut up one of those rubber jar opener grips and glued pieces to the insides of my tweezers. This holds these tiny parts in place better. You will need to have the usual supply of brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and yards even though they have been provided in the kit in resin. I would only use them as templates as they are incredibly delicate. In addition to the brass rod you should purchase a set of photo etched ratlines in this scale to really give this ship the right look even if you do not attempt to rig the masts and yards with anything else (available from White Ensign Models). This kit a great model of a subject that has been badly treated, if at all, in the past by some other model companies.
Directions:: one double sided page which contains on the front a brief history of the ship, statistics, painting guide and line drawings of the starboard side of the ship and and overhead drawing. All of the text is in English. The reverse contains a photo copy of a picture of the kits contents by way of inventory and blow up line drawings of the assembly process. You will need the front page line drawings to clarify any vagueness in these instructions as to part placement. The directions are for the most part better than many.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and caveats: box art states that the kit represents Majestic in 1895 and features a black and white photo of the ship in Victorian livery. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. Deck detail is quite well rendered with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. Another nice feature of the deck detail is the well executed differentiation between the areas of wood and metal deck (including finely rendered texturing) under the sweep of the main battery guns.
The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely well done and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary. Ship’s boats, particularly the larger ones are very well done as are the many ventilators.
A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations: there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets, shelves and booms. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts. Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
PACKAGING: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. Some of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of an intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1895. Variants of this kit have been issued as
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Kronstadt. (Kresta II-class)
EXCELLENT.
Note: usually one has to take with a grain of salt the date printed on the box tops of these kits but this one is right on. The kit depicts the ship as she appeared in 1943 wearing a kind of loopy camouflage scheme that tried to disguise the ships appearance as that of a destroyer. How can you not like that? While Combrig did provide a small illustration of one side of the scheme you will need to do some photographic research to get it right. NavSource on line has some good photos. You will also need to work around those false painted life rafts!
Kit Parts and Build Notes: this is a resin kit with a photo etch fret of ship specific parts (no railings included). Parts are very detailed with the one piece hull and lower superstructure being very well done. Planked areas of the deck are very fine and there was virtually no flash found on any of the parts. All resin parts fit well. The PE fret included radar, catapults and crane assemblies. There are many, incredibly finely cast tiny parts contained in this kit, including much of the deck hardware. While this goes to show just how good Combrig is at casting finely detailed parts it makes the kit difficult to construct. There are dozens of parts so tiny that they are not only difficult to glue and place in the appropriate spot (more on that later) but they are almost impossible to grasp! I had to customize a set of tweezers with soft pads on the ends just to hold on to these tiny parts.
You will need to consult those research photos not only to get the paint scheme right but to make sure you get all those tiny parts in the right places. The directions, typical Combrig, are just a bit vague on some parts placement. If you want to rig this ship you will also need to make appropriate substitutions of brass rod or tubing in the masts and yards as resin cannot take the tension.
Packaging: typical Combrig with the flimsy, folded white paper box, bags and peanuts.
The kit builds up into a great model but it is definitely not for beginners because of the myriad of tiny parts and the difficulty of working with them, not to mention the somewhat vague placement found in the directions. However, for the modeler with some experience this is a great kit.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of brass photo etch of ship specific parts. There are no railings included. The photo etch fret includes such items as boat chocks, platform braces, platforms, grilles, chains and mast hardware. The hull is a single piece casting that includes a portion of the superstructure. The casting is simply outstanding. The planking detail is so fine as to be almost invisible! The modeler will have to exercise the greatest care in painting so as not to lose this exquisite detail to heavy coats of paint. The remaining resin parts are beautifully cast with no flash and easily removed from the casting plugs, pours or wafers. As with all resin kits and most plastic ones you really should use brass rod or tubing to construct the masts and yards. You can do it with the parts provided but you will not be able to rig the vessel as those parts will be too delicate. If you are like me and don't rig the ships 'cause your team of trained spiders ran away to the circus, the delicacy of the parts is only an issue if you are a klutz. I would suggest that before attempting this kit that you have a couple of resin kits under your belt. That being said, any competent modeler can make this kit into a stunning example of the art.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008. Editor's Note: See also notes under Iron Duke Class"
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with the exception of some mast platforms the parts in this kit are identical to those found in the Combrig #70241, König. Please see my review of that kit as all notes therein apply to this kit as well.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011. Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1914.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: reboxed Duncan, Combrig kit #70265 .
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: parts and assembly diagrams essentially the same as HMS Orion, Combrig kit #70259, as this is an Orion class battleship, however parts and diagrams are included for the differences in the aft superstructure.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
GOOD. Moskva comes in two styles of resin, a heavy grey one for the hull and main superstructure pieces, and a finer tan molding for small pieces. All small parts are individually packaged in miniature ziplock bags. There is a fair amount of flash on the tan resin, and a line of gloop along the hull where the resin settled slightly. However, neither of these will pose much difficulty removing. There is a good amount of deck detail, some of which was pre-glued into place, but little vertical detail. Elevator lines, portholes and ventilation grated are only lightly etched and probably should be gone over. Main mistake is completely missing access panels for the hull mounted torpedo tubes. You will either have to do some careful gouging, or simulate with black paint. Kit is well worth cannibalizing a DML Sovremenny for the Modern Russian equipment set. Purchase a Gold Medal photoetch set for the railings and radar screens and this kit will come out quite impressive. (DH)
Editor's Notes: NATO code name "BLK-COM-1", Russian code name "Atlant". This kit, or variants of it, has been released as:
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov/Kirov Class
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this ship was a participant in the battle of Tsushima in the Russo-Japanese War, she was lost to a combination of gunfire and torpedoes.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch included. All parts are cast in medium gray resin. The one piece hull incorporates the lower superstructure and is a highly detailed thing of beauty. The casting is flawless and will require no cleanup whatsoever. All other parts are cast on a combination of very thin wafers and pour plugs or stubs. Care will have to be taken when removing these finely detailed and delicate parts from their respective casting mediums. The chore does not seem to be nearly as difficult as many other kits I have seen. You will need to fabricate the ship's masts and yards with metal rod or tube whether or not you plan to add rigging to this ship.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history (in this case in English and Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged, but the box has no peanuts so the parts rattle around.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1895.
Editor's Note: NATO code name "Kara", Soviet code name "Berkut B". Presumably, Ochakov, Petropavlovsk, and Kerch are similar, and Azov, is a variant
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes: Box art claims the ship to be in 1900 configuration, however, contents appear to be exactly the same as the Vengeance (Combrig #70448). While this may be accurate to the degree noticeable in 700 scale I recommend vigorous pursuit of one’s references before beginning construction.
As to all other remarks regarding this kit please see my review of the Vengeance.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
Editor's Note: See Gangut-Class.
Editor's Note: See Borodino Class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded, flash free parts in a resin kit with one sheet of photo-etch consisting of platforms, braces, anchor chain and other small parts, but no railings. kit contains scores of very tiny parts that may be difficult for some modelers to handle. you will definitely need great tweezer skills for this kit. single piece hull with very minimal superstructure incorporated, deck detail is very fine and care will have to be taken to preserve the delicate planking detail when painting. hull scales out to a true 1/700 at the waterline and beam. substituting metal rod or tubing for the masts and yards will only be necessary if you are planning an elaborate rigging scheme (which I don't do 'cause my trained spider died).
Directions:: two double sided pages; page one consists of a photo inventory of parts, painting instructions called out in WEM Colourcoats paints, beautiful detailed line drawings from the side and overhead, along with a brief history and basic statistics, all in English. page two consists of exploded view assembly instructions of the main and sub assemblies, far superior to previous offerings by this manufacturer. A basic rigging plan could be constructed from the line drawings.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a foam wrap around the hull to minimize breakage, no peanuts, small parts in the usual jumbled up baggy. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Very nice kit of a long sought subject.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Conqueror, Monarch and Thunderer are similar.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: at the end of WW1 this vessel was tranferred to the USN as reparations. After some testing it was used in the famous US Airforce demonstration by Gen. Billy Mitchell (or better termed propaganda as the deck was stacked) showing how battleships could be sunk by aircraft. Ostfriesland gave her all. One wonders if Mitchell hadn't stacked the deck (giving the battleship admirals plenty of ammo to claim the tests invalid) if USN battleships would have been better prepared against air attack many years later?
The photo on the box top is one from the period when Ostfriesland was turned over to the USN and not as the box top would seem to suggest, 1911, so it does not show the anti-torpedo net defences. The line drawings but not the directions note their placement.
Please see my notes and review for Combrig #70429 SMS Helgoland. The kit contents and quality appear to be identical. Any differences between the ships would be small.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
FAIR.. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. Hull is a one piece casting in medium gray resin. It will require some cleanup along the waterline. Some detail cast into the hull is overscale. Deck missing some equipment seen in overhead views. Other parts are cast in gray resin on a combination of wafers and pour stubs. They have good detail but have quite a bit of flash to be removed. You will need to fabricate upper masts, yards, booms and flag staffs . This is a better ship model than the Gangut but still lacks detail that will have to be added.
Directions:: AWFUL, they include only a single poorly reproduced exploded view diagram of final assembly. Parts placement is at best vague. Assembly will be very difficult without good pictures, line drawings and or plans.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1924. See also notes under Gangut-Class.
POOR/FAIR. (based on in-box review)
This is the first resin ship kit in 1/700 issued by Combrig. The best thing that I can say is that it is for collectors only. It contains basic shapes and little more. The hull shows the promise of future quality to come from this maker, but the rest of it is just too needy.
Check with your dealer to see if this has been retooled before buying. As issued this is for masochists only or real ship model nuts, as I think those two terms are interchangable. ( I guess that's why I bought it...)
Directions and packaging are awful.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1877.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov/Kirov Class
Editor's Note: See Gangut-Class.
FAIR. (based on in box review)
Note: this kit is one of the earliest issues from Combrig and may have been retooled and reissued since this one was purchased by me. Please check with your dealer before deciding whether or not to purchase it.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch, brass rod, decals or anything else included. The kit is molded in a medium gray resin. The one piece hull is molded up to the main deck and except for finely lined planking and a few hatches is pretty much featureless. The sides of the hull have quite a few pinholes and flash along the waterline. The other parts range in quality from very good to pathetic. The ships boats are just awful, most other parts will need at least some clean up before they can be used. You will need to have brass rod or tubing for the masts and other parts as well as chain for the anchors. Lots of work will be necessary and a full spare parts box will be needed to turn this one into a nice model. For the experienced only.
Directions:: one large sheet which contains a numbered parts list in English and Russian but no numbers on the parts or a sketch or photo of the parts to help identify them. The other half of the sheet consists of two line drawings, one of the starboard side the other an overhead view. The numbers for the parts are called out with lines to the parts in question so you can locate them in the assembly process. While not completely useless it is hardly all that helpful. The directions are for the Poltava which I can only assume was a sister ship. Several small drawings at the bottom of the sheet supposedly highlight differences between Poltava, Petropavlovsk (our subject) and Sevastopol.
Packaging: the usual cheesy white folded paper box, hull loose in bottom, small parts in a plastic bag. My kit had no further packing material so the parts rattled around like a BB in a beer can.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898. See also notes under Poltava-class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Nikolayev. (Berkut B/Kara-class)
Editor's Notes: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
GOOD/EXCELLENT (based on in-box review) see Combrig #70269 HMS Queen as this POW is a Queen class battleship and is simply a re-boxed Queen with all parts, directions and line drawings the same as found in the Queen kit. Much better references than I have available to me would be necessary to accurately depict the minor differences between the ships of this class for the modeler who would care to do so.
(WJS), review dated 31 January 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit molded in dark gray. It includes two (at least mine did) identical photo etch detail frets of supplementary parts. The resin is clean and crisp with no flash, malformed parts or warping. Some decks are cast on a thin wafer with all other parts on pour plugs. The detail is excellent. All parts are beautifully cast, even the tiny deck fittings. The huge hull casting is a work of art in itself. Planking is very finely etched but does not contain butt ends or coal scuttles in the deck. This kit is not for the faint of heart. There are scores of very tiny deck equipment parts to attach. In addition the PE contains even more tiny parts for mounting the ship’s boats that are going to be really challenging to get in their proper alignment. The PE also includes, funnel grids, platform supports, ladders (but no inclined ladders), braces and anchor chain. As usual with any resin kit, if you wish to rig the model you would best be served by replacing the resin masts and yards with brass rod or steel tubing. An inset in the directions provides a pattern for making your own replacements from your material of choice.
This is a really excellent kit but I really don’t understand why Combrig consistently omits the parts to create the torpedo defense mechanisms. Later war fits for many of the ships modeled do omit the netting but they should include it to model the early war fit.
Directions: Three single sided black and white sheets. Sheet one contains ship statistics, a canned history in English and two line drawings. They are very detailed line drawings of starboard and overhead views showing rigging and placement of coal scuttles and hatches should the modeler wish to add them to the deck plan. Sheets two and three contain photo inventories of the parts and line drawings indicating parts placement. These are much better than the usual drawings and should make it easier than the average Combrig kit to construct.
Packaging: Different than the usual Combrig kit. The top half of the box is the usual flimsy folded paper with a fuzzy black and white photo of the actual ship but the bottom is a heavy cardboard box. Small parts are bagged in plastic, but not the hull. The box was then crammed with foam peanuts that severely limit part movement to prevent breakage. It reminds me of the way WSW kits are packaged.
This is a great example of the resin kit maker’s art and should be in every Royal Navy fan’s collection. It will not be and easy kit to construct and certainly not to rig but it is a beauty.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Lion-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: with regard to the dates printed on the box tops and on the drawings in the directions of this and other Combrig kits the modeler needs to do some research before adopting that date as “Gospel”. One of the things that comes up with warships of this era is the use of anti-torpedo nets and booms. These booms would have cluttered up the sides of capital ships early in WW1 and were only discarded later in the war. If the modeler wishes to portray his kit at a specific date he needs to check on whether or not that ship had the nets and booms at the time portrayed. This, in many cases will take more than a casual trip to the internet. Many photos of WW1 vessels, especially the Central Powers ships are either not dated or incorrectly dated so, builder beware! I prefer, if at all possible, to model my ships without the booms and nets, personal preference.
The box top photo of the ship clearly shows the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms in use, neither the line drawings nor directions show them.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with one fret of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch includes chains, braces, supports, platforms, ladders, stack grilles, davits, ship's boats rudders and some parts that appear to be platforms for the anti-torpedo net stowage. There also appears to be some resin parts that may be the booms. The use of these parts is not referenced in the sketches so placement is unknown. Resin parts are all molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece molding with incredible detail in the deck and hull sides. The planking detail on the deck is extremely fine and will require care in painting not to obscure. The other parts are molded on pour plugs and bars along with some sheets of ultra thin wafer. All parts appear to be easily removed from their carriers and/or plugs. The parts are all highly detailed and finely molded with no bubbles, pinholes, malformations or flash. I do not have the Combrig Kaiser kit to compare this one to so I cannot say whether or not the parts content varies. Faithful readers will know I built the WSW version of SMS Kaiser, kit #700-035. This is a truly beautiful kit. I would not recommend it for the first time resin builder because of the really tiny parts and fine detail, however, this is a treat for the more experienced builder.
Directions:: consist of two single sided pages. Page 1 has a starboard side line drawing and an overhead view line drawing. The drawings are very detailed and include simplified rigging views. The basic ship statistics are also on this page as is a brief history of the ship. All text is in Russian. Page 2 includes a photo inventory of the parts and an exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Using the page 1 line drawings the builder may have sufficient direction to build this kit, some parts placement may be vague. Neither the line drawings or assembly instructions note the use or placement of the anti-torpedo nets, platforms and booms. The line drawings on page 1 may allow the builder to set up a rudimentary rigging scheme. Directions in Combrig kits are not as good as some other manufacturers, but with care can be used successfully.
Packaging: the usual flimsy white folded paper box with a picture of the actual ship on the top as box art. Small parts are all put into one bag with the hull floating around the bottom of the box sharing it with some foam packing peanuts. The directions are then folded on top to keep the contents from moving about.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
GOOD/EXCELLENT (based on in-box review) Crisply molded all resin kit (no photo-etch or white metal parts) with little to no flash, no pinholes or lumps; single piece waterline hull incorporating the lower superstructure, remaining parts bagged together which could cause a breakage problem with the delicate davits and gun barrels (no damage in my kit), typical Combrig flimsy paper box with reproduction photo of actual ship on the box top. 7-inch (18 cm) length at waterline which scales out exactly to proper length, beam just slightly underscale, but not noticable.
Directions consist of a single double sided sheet with line drawings of the fully rigged ship in profile and from above along with a brief history of the ship and basic statistics, in English, on the front side and on the reverse side an exploded view of the assembly process (no sequence called out or numbering of the parts) along with a photo layout of the parts included. Simply structure of the ship is adequately served by equally simple directions. Placement of ships boats being the only iffy item but easily done with reference to the line drawing on the front side of the sheet. Rigging on all ships of this era being profuse additional references will be necessary to accurately reproduce the scheme if you are so inclined.
All in all a lovely little gem of a kit.
(WJS), review dated 31 January 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1904.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes a fret of photo etch brass for detailing. The brass fret does not include railings but does have such items as chains, funnel grilles, chocks, platforms, some ladders, platform supports and mast hardware. The resin, a medium gray, castings are flash free and highly detailed. The hull casting which includes a part of the lower superstructure is amazing. The planking is so fine as to be almost invisible. The deck is crammed with detail which is supplemented to the nth degree with additional castings of a myriad of small parts that will boggle the mind. All manner of vents, reels and other deck hardware are finely cast onto thin runners. You will need a great deal of patience and time to deal with all this detail. Great care will also have to be taken in painting so as not to obscure all of this fantastic work. The hull is smooth cast on the sides so that if you wish to install the torpedo net booms you will need to consult good photographs for exact placement. There were no parts specifically called out in the directions for these booms, so you may need some plastic stock or wire to create the booms. Their placement is not dealt with in the kit. As usual I suggest constructing the masts and yards out of brass wire or tubing if you wish to rig the ship, if not use the kit supplied resin parts. Other parts are cast on thin resin wafers which appear easy to remove. All gun barrels are cast in resin and look quite good. Brass or aluminum turnings would be nice but aren't necessary for these kits.
Directions:: four single sided pages with page one containing line drawings of the starboard side and overhead views, a brief history (in Russian) and ship statistics. Page two is a photo copy of a picture of the kit contents for inventory purposes. Pages three and four consist of exploded view line drawings of the assembly process that seems adequate for the purpose.
Packaging: not the usual flimsy folded paper box but rather a flimsy thin cardboard box with a picture of the actual ship on the box top. The small parts are all bagged together in a small plastic bag. The rest of the box is filled with foam peanuts to keep the parts from rattling about too much.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Lion-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This British battleship had a surprisingly short career as a warship. Put into service in 1897 and scrapped in 1914 before the outbreak of WW1 she spent most of her time in service as a Royal Yacht and a tender to HMS Victory. She must not have filled the Admiralty with boundless confidence as to her capabilities. However, this ship is a great opportunity for the RN modeler to add a great looking black, buff and white battleship (or just buff and white as a Royal yacht) in immaculate condition to the great gray fleet!
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch. All parts are molded in light gray resin. The hull is a one piece casting that incorporates the lower superstructure. Once again Combrig has produced not only a beautiful, clean casting requiring no preparation other than washing, but they have again created a total gem with superfine detail. The other pieces are cast on pour plugs and extremely thin wafer and are also highly detailed and flash free. There are an incredible number of tiny, highly detailed parts in this kit. It is NOT for the beginner in resin. Careful handling is a must to get these tiny parts off of their stubs without damaging them. All parts necessary to construct this kit are included in the resin castings but I would suggest, at a minimum, substituting metal rod or tubing for the upper masts and yards. I know I'm too clumsy for these delicate pieces to work with them in resin and I know I'm not alone in this. This is an outstanding kit.
As more pre-dreadnoughts appear on the market the PE makers are beginning to respond to their specific needs. You can now obtain ratlines for these ships from White Ensign Models and I'm sure more PDBB specific things will come out soon. Combine the ratlines with rigging and rails and a truly exquisite model can be built.
Directions:: consist of one double sided page. Included are line drawings of side and overhead views, basic technical data (in Russian), a brief history (in Russian and English), a photographic parts inventory and two exploded view assembly diagrams. Some parts placement is a bit vague so you may want to seek out some photos or plans of this ship to get this right (especially for ship's boats, their equipment and the ventilator intakes). There are no painting instructions.
Packaging: this kit sports a different type of box than earlier kit releases. It is now sold in a fairly sturdy cardboard instead of the usual flimsy folded paper box. Box art and marking consist of a reproduction of a vintage photo of the ship on the box top with some company information printed atop that. All parts other than the hull are jumbled together in one bag (it is a miracle that mine suffered no damage in transit), hull is neither bagged nor wrapped, and all plus a few peanuts are just plunked into the box.
(WJS), review dated 17 February 2006.
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: now here's a battleship with an interesting history. The Russian government did a lot of their ship shopping in foreign markets. Retvisan was built by Cramp in Philadelphia, PA, USA. That purchase turned out to be a good value for the money. In the Russo-Japanese war she survived being torpedoed at Port Arthur, was repaired, took part in the Battle of the Yellow Sea where she took eighteen hits from 12" and 8" shells, survived that only to sink in the harbor of Port Arthur after having been hit by thirteen 11" mortar shells. She was raised by the Japanese at the end of the war, repaired and taken into the Japanese Navy and named Hizen where she served until 1923 finally being sunk as a target ship in 1924.
Kit Parts: if only the kit was as good as the story. This is an all resin model molded in a mix of different colored resins. There is no photo etch or metal parts or decals. You will need to hit your stock of brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and you will need to purchase some chain for the anchors. The one piece hull is molded up to the main deck. Hull planking is represented by admirably fine lines but they are just straight parallels. There is little else molded into the deck other than some major features like bollards. I have not seen many kits of ships of this era that mold in or even acknowledge the presence of the numerous coal loading shutes that were in the decks of coal powered ships, this one is no exception. There were some pinholes mixed in with the portholes that will take some care to fix so as not to obscure the limited detail on the side of the hull. The hull in my kit was somewhat hogged as well. I expect that can be cured by the hot water bath method. Retvisan used the net and boom anti-torpedo defense from the very beginning. There is nothing in the kit to represent those parts. A simplified drawing on the directions shows them in their rough positions but nothing else. Interestingly, the box top photo shows the ship without the booms in place (but their mounting points are clearly visible along the hull near the waterline), but I doubt that such was the case in 1902. Most of the smaller parts are cleanly molded but the ships boats are a big disappointment as more than half are simply featureless. The modeler will have to substitute from the parts box or alter them to appear to have canvas covers over the top (it could be done without too much trouble). Several of the other parts such as the davits and anchors will have to be delicately chipped out of their carrier flash. I suppose some of the disappointment I felt with this kit has a lot to do with the beautiful photo of the actual vessel reproduced on the box top being juxtaposed with the simplified box contents. The basics are there but a lot of work will be required to make it look even close to that great picture.
This kit is one of the earlier efforts of Combrig and may have been revised and reissued as several of their other early efforts have been so check with your dealer before buying.
Directions:: single page printed on both sides. Top side consists of ship statistics and history printed in Russian and two very simple line drawings of the starboard side and and overhead view. Flip side consists of a photo inventory of the box contents and a very simple drawing showing parts placement. No measurements are given for the masts and yards and placement of parts will not be easy to figure out from the drawing given.
Packaging: typical Combrig flimsy white folded paper box with the parts in a plastic bag, the hull free to rattle around in the bottom. Mine did not come with the usual foam peanuts in the box voids.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: this ship was a holdover type of vessel that somehow survived for an incredibly long time. Aside from an interesting history she was so bizarre looking I had to have one. No specific time period for the fit of the kit is given.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with no photo etch or parts in any other medium. The one piece hull and lower superstructure, cast together can only be described as exquisite. The shields are paper thin and the molded in deck detail is sharp and cleanly cast. There are no planking lines molded in the decks of this ship as her decks were not planked, so don't go looking for something that isn't supposed to be there. All other parts are cast on a variety of bars, plugs and wafers. The wafered parts are on very, very thin easily removed carrier. There appears to be virtually no flash on my kit. There are lots of very tiny, detailed, delicate parts so care will be needed to not break them during assembly. Resin main battery gun barrels are cast separately from the turret and have blast bags on them. Mast parts are resin but I would suggest their replacement with brass rod or tubing if you wish to rig the ship. This is an extremely small model, less than 165 mm in length but is absolutely crammed with beautifully cast, detailed parts.
Directions:: one two sided page consisting of statistics and brief history (in English, along with a starboard side and overhead view line drawings on the front side and a photographic parts inventory on the reverse side with a single exploded view drawing of the assembly process. Hopefully, it is clear enough for most of us, your mileage may differ. Box art shows the ship in one of the Admiralty disruptive paint schemes but the directions contain no painting clues at all, you are on your own.
Packaging: typical Combrig flimsy, white folded paper box with a picture of the ship on the top, small parts in a plastic bag, hull loose in the bottom, box voids filled with foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit parts: very crisply molded example of Combrig's more recent offerings. One piece hull with lower superstructure incorporated. all resin kit with no metal or photo-etched parts included. all parts virtually flash free on a mixture of paper thin sheet and pour stubs that are easily removed. all parts except hull are bagged together with potential for damage to delicate parts like davits and gun barrels. masts and yards will need metal rod or tubing substitutes for strength.
Measurements of hull indicate a slight scale discrepency in length and beam of about 3% but is essentially unnoticable.
Directions:: one double sided page with front containing side and overhead line drawings, basic statistics and short history with simplified painting instructions in English and Russian. Reverse contains exploded assembly view and photos of included parts. exploded view and line drawings are adequate for assembly but no guidance for the elaborate rigging scheme used on vessels of this period.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Both bow and stern on my kit had poked through the box. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Still and all a nice looking kit that captures the flavor of the era.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. One word description - SUPERB
The deck detail is amazing with the steel blast plates on the deck picked out to perfection possibly one of the best resin kits around (and thats saying something as all Combrig kits are excellent) the kit is accurate in every detail and is moulded to perfection. The only fiddly bits are the central gangway and the boat supports but with a full PE fit (essential) and Victorian black white and buff colour scheme she looks perfect.
Painting will challenge all comers as the amount of deck detail needs to be picked out but thats part of the fun !
Highly recomended kit and essential if you are into the Pre Dreadnought era.
(AMS), review dated 14 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1889.
Portrays the ship in 1909.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Combrig is in the process of re-issuing their entire product line with improvements to the kits that may include photo etch parts in some cases and new castings in all instances. The kit numbers remain the same so this will make it difficult to tell what is in any given box. You may wish to consult their web site to see which kits have been re-tooled. Remarks in my reviews are NOT necessarily reflective for re-tooled kits. If the kit I have has been re-tooled I will note that in the review only if I am certain that is the case.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit molded in light gray. This kit has been retooled and reissued with the same stock number. My kit is the older version. The one piece hull is well detailed, crisply cast and for the most part flawless. There is a small amount of excess resin along the waterline that can be removed with a few passes of a sanding stick. Wood decking is limited to the foredeck under the molded in anchor chains which I believe to be correct as the rest of the decks were steel or linoleum faced. There are, however, no coal scuttles or small hatches molded into the deck. The remaining parts are cleanly cast with some flash along the turret bottoms. The resin masts and spars should be replaced with brass rod or steel tubing even if you are not going to rig this ship as, at least on mine, they are a bit warped. Now, I have straitened many a small resin part just by dipping it it hot water for a few seconds and allowing the "casting memory effect" to return the part to its correct shape but your mileage may vary. Except for the rigging ships of this type were fairly simple in appearance. Modelers of WW2 era ships expect a lot more deck and superstructure clutter so don’t be disappointed that it isn’t there.
Directions: Consist of a single black and white double sided sheet. The front contains two line drawings of the ship with starboard and overhead views. The starboard side view shows a rudimentary rigging pattern. The rest of the front of the sheet consists of a canned history and statistics on the ship in Russian. The reverse consists of a photographic parts inventory and a simple blown up line drawing showing parts placement. Considering the very few parts in the kit the drawing is adequate to construct the ship as provided. Super detailers will want to consult additional sources.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. Some small parts in my kit were broken in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: Duncan class battleship, see Combrig kit #70265 as almost all parts and directions are the same with the exception of the parts and arrangement of the foremast.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See Ushakov-Class.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Poltava-class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Admiral Zozulya. (Project 1134/Kresta I Class)
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Note: this is an early release from Combrig and may have been revised and reissued so that these remarks may not pertain to a newer kit. If the kit has not been revised this is what you get.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit, there is no photo etch, metal parts, decals, flag sheets or additions of any other kind. The resin is a very dark gray and for the most part cleanly molded. The one piece hull, molded up to the boat deck includes a fair amount of molded in detail and just a modicum of flash around the water line. Deck planking consists of finely drawn parallel lines with no but ends, coal chutes or anything of that nature. There are in addition to the planking lines some nice hatches, bollards, capstan and boat chocks (those are very heavy). You will need anchor chain and metal rod or tubing for the masts and yards. While you are out scrounging parts you will need something for the anti-torpedo net and boom defense. There is no platform for the net, net material or boom material included in the kit much less anything telling you how to do it. The rest of the parts have very little flash and have fairly good detail on the surfaces. A couple of the added decks for the bridge may need some considerable fiddling with to make fit but everything else looks pretty good.
Directions:: not completely awful but not of much help either. One page with the parts called out by name and number in English and Russian, however, there is no inventory to compare it to so that is pretty much worthless. You will have to match up the parts to the starboard side drawing and overhead view contained on the same page.
Packaging: the usual Combrig flimsy folded white paper box with the small parts bagged and the hull loose in the bottom of the box. Foam peanuts fill the voids.
(WJS), review dated 14 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this Borodino class battleship is depicted in her 1916 guise. Slava played an active part in WW1 when most other pre-dreadnoughts were relegated to side show status. She even took on a couple of Germany's finest ships in her last action.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch included. All parts are cast in medium gray resin. The one piece hull incorporates the lower superstructure and is a highly detailed thing of beauty. The casting is flawless and will require no cleanup whatsoever. All other parts are cast on a combination of very thin wafers and pour plugs or stubs. Care will have to be taken when removing these finely detailed and delicate parts from their respective casting mediums. The chore does not seem to be nearly as difficult as many other kits I have seen. There are a number of tiny parts in this model of outstanding detail. The ship's boats in particular stand out as being wonderfully detailed. You will need to replace the ship's masts and yards, provided in resin, with metal rod or tube if you plan to add rigging to this ship, but that is my standard advice on any ship model kit, resin or plastic.
Directions:: standard one page double sided sheet typical of the later issue Combrig kits. They include a brief history ( in this case in English and Russian), basic statistics, painting instructions, parts inventory, line drawings and exploded view assembly diagram. If you carefully use the line drawings and diagram together you should have no difficulty with parts placement. You could even create a fairly convincing rigging plan from study of the line drawings.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam balls that look like oversized peas.
Production Note: buyers on the secondary market (you know who you are) should be aware that the Borodino Class of battleships were one of the earliest ships issued by Combrig. The sample reviewed above is actually a reissue that has been much upgraded and of higher quality than the earlier issue. Not all Borodinos are of the same quality level as this one. If you want this you need to buy one of the reissues.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See Borodino Class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Beautifully cast in grey resin, and it nicely matches the drawings and statistics that I have. This will be an excellent project
(DRW), review dated 10 March 2017.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Beautifully cast in grey resin, and it nicely matches the drawings and statistics that I have. This will be an excellent project
(DRW), review dated 10 March 2017.
OK. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: this kit is a model of the battleship sunk at the battle of Tsushima in the Russo-Japanese War.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in dark gray resin. One piece hull incorporates lower superstructure. Deck has nice straight planking detail but little else. Hull sides are completely devoid of detail. Hull and upperworks suffer from pinholes and some kind of reddish blotches throughout the resin which may or may not affect the painting of the ship. All other parts have little surface detail and are covered with flash. Normally I suggest substituting metal rod or tubing for resin or plastic masts to rig any ship model but in this case you will need to do so regardless of whether or not you intend to rig it. The ship's boats are almost devoid of detail and are little better than rough shapes.
Directions:: poor, they consist solely of one sheet of line drawings side and overhead views with numbered callouts for the parts list (no photo inventory to help you identify them either).
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged and the box is filled with little foam peanuts.
Production Note: this Borodino class kit is an example of the early issues by Combrig. This entire class of ships has been retooled and reissued by Combrig. Please see my remarks on RIN Slava for what you will get in the newer kits.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1904. See also notes under Borodino Class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) This is a good quality resin kit of an important Cold War subject. The Sverdlov-class were the largest light cruisers of all time. They were also the last light cruisers to be built, and they served through almost all of the Cold War.
The level of detail is very nice indeed. The problem is that some of the superstructure pieces do not fit correctly. It looks like Combrig did not correctly account for the shrinkage of the resin. Corrections will be tricky, but not too difficult for an experienced modeller.
(DRW) review dated 5 February 2010.
Editor's Note: Presumably, Dzerzhinskiy, and Zhdanov, are variants of this kit.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: Highly detailed, nicely molded parts in the usual jumbled up baggy. Single piece hull with lower superstructure incorporated. this is an all resin kit with the exception of a small sheet of photo-etched parts. no obvious flash, sinkholes or pinholes but small parts appear to be more difficult to remove from pour plugs than other recent offerings from this company. Masts and yards should probably be replaced with metal rod or tubing for strength.
Directions:: Standard double sided single sheet, in English, with one side featuring detailed line drawings (although with a highly simplified rigging plan), basic statistics (lacking length and beam measurements), a brief history and something different from prior offerings; painting instructions called out in WEM Colourcoats colors. The other side contains the usual photo inventory of parts and an exploded assembly plan adequate when used with the line drawings for building but not for rigging.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art.
Nice kit of hard to find subject matter but some difficulty foreseen with the removal of the small and/or delicate parts from the pour stubs.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1903. Apparently, Triumph is similar.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Tango was the former Russian battleship Poltava (Combrig kit as well) captured during the battles of the Russo-Japanese war. The ship was sunk in shallow water and raised by the Japanese and then incorporated into the IJN. It was later returned to the Russians and renamed Chesma (which kit Combrig also has produced). I do not have the Poltava kit to compare differences, if any, so I can’t comment on accuracy. I was unable to find any but basic photos of the ship in IJN service either. This kit is one of those recently re-worked by Combrig (assuming the re-work being done to Poltava) as part of their on-going effort to improve their entire line of kits.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with a fret of supplementary photo etch parts. The PE consists of an incredible array of TINY boat chocks, braces, weapons platforms, davits, anchor chain, funnel grills, anchors, inclined ladders and vertical ladders. Resin parts are clean and crisp with good surface detail. Most parts are on casting plugs but a few deck and platform pieces are on a thin film carrier that must be sanded off. The delicate casting of these tiny parts is truly amazing. The only negative to this is that these miniscule resin and PE parts are going to be really hard to handle. The one piece hull is nicely cast with finely engraved planking detail of the continuous line variety (no butt ends to the planks). Somewhat of a disappointment, as this is a reworked kit from their line, is the lack of coal scuttles and other small hatches as found in some of their newest castings. As usual I would prefer main battery gun barrels to be done in brass but these aren’t really all that bad. Rigging this ship will require substituting brass rod or steel tubing for the resin parts provided.
Directions: A bit of a departure for Combrig with this one as there are three pages of black and white illustrations and type. The first page is in the usual style of a canned history of the ship (in Russian and English) accompanied by line drawings of starboard and overhead views that give a very basic rigging pattern for the ship as well as the usual compilation of weapons and equipment statistics. There are also painting instructions for the ship in Russian service both pre-war and wartime colors but no instructions for Japanese service. The next two pages consist of the usual photographic parts inventory and multiple line drawings of part placement. In a true change of pace there is even a picture showing boat placement! There is no mention of anti-torpedo defenses nor are any parts provided for them. The box top photograph, presumably taken immediately after induction into IJN service, shows no torpedo net defense. The directions are an upgrade from the usual for Combrig.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. No parts in my kit were broken, although I don’t know why not.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
GOOD. (based on in - box review).
I believe that this is one of Kombrig's earlier offerings. I had a vague impression that some of their earlier offerings were not up to current standard, but my initial impression is good.
The kit is molded in gray - green resin. It comes in the typical flimsy box with a grainy picture on the cover, and packing of styrofoam peanuts. The hull is perfectly flat, and cleanly molded, with commendably straight rows of portholes and a reasonable amount of detail. Little cleanup will be required. On deck there is a forward breakwater with supports, along with capstans, bollards, hatches, and a couple of small winches. The mine rails that ran from the forecastle break to the stern are represented as fine raised lines. A small depth charge rack is molded on the stern. Otherwise the deck is smooth. There is no plating detail on the deck or hull, though some is visible in photographs. Comparison with the Profile Morskie 29 drawings reveals minor differences in deck detail. Most noticeable is the shape of the forward breakwater. In plan view, the PM 29 drawing shows it as evenly curved, while on the kit it is distinctly angled, making a shallow "V". >From the one photo of this area, it appears the curved form is correct, but the low angle at which the picture was taken makes it difficult to be certain.
There are four small, zip - loc bags of parts. One contains the distinctive, streamlined forward superstructure with the fore funnel faired into it, the after funnel, and a wafer of platforms. Another is for the armament - Three triple torpedo tubes, three main battery turrets, a shielded twin AA mount, single 40mm open mounts, and some lighter machine guns or cannons. Barrels are integral with the mounts, and are very thin. One of the main battery barrels was broken. Looking at the instructions, it appears that extras are provided for the light AA. A good thing, as three of the six 40mm had broken barrels. A third bag contains the main battery director and small parts such as anchors, searchlights, compasses, prop guards, and a paravane. The last bag contains boats, rafts, and davits. The boats are nice, but are joined to a runner the length of their keels, and care will have to be taken in removing them.
The instructions appear adequate. There is a single sheet of paper printed on both sides. The printing is good and legible. One side has a 1/700 drawing of the ship, in plan and profile view with a brief history (in Russian). The other side has a photo of the parts layout, next to an exploded drawing showing parts placement. The parts are not numbered anywhere on the instructions. This is an annoyance, but it is not a very complex kit, and it should be possible to identify all of the parts from the pictures.
No photoetch or decals are provided. There do not appear to be any resin masts included. I prefer to make them from brass wire, anyway. The masts are simple poles with yardarms. It looks like the mast dimensions can be determined from the drawings. The PM 29 drawing shows the foremast with a small platform with an RDF loop, some prominent signal lamps, and a couple of braces securing the mast to the forward superstructure. These details will have to be scratch built.
While perhaps not as detailed as their more recent releases, and lacking bells and whistles such as photoetch and decals, I believe the Kombrig Tashkent will build into a nice looking replica of this handsome, distinctive looking ship. I am especially impressed by the clean, sharp molding, and the almost complete lack of flash on the small parts.
(CW) review dated 22 March 2007
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: parts and assembly diagrams essentially the same as HMS Orion, Combrig kit #70259, as this is an Orion class battleship, however parts and diagrams are included for the differences in the aft superstructure.
All other remarks the same.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: cleanly molded flash free all resin parts, one piece hull with lower superstructure, no photo-etch or metal parts. Many small, delicate parts but easily removed from pour stubs and ultra thin wafers. All parts have nice details and good finish. Careful painting and handling will be required to preserve all this great detail. Hull scales out to proper length and beam. Should the modeler choose to rig this model he will need to change out the supplied resin masts and yards to metal rod or tube.
Directions:: the usual single sheet of double sided paper with detailed line drawings of side and overhead views accompanied by basic statistics, a brief history and painting directions, all in English and Russian on the one side and on the other a photo inventory of kit parts and exploded assembly plan. Kit isn't complex enough for this to be a problem in building this model unless you want to rig it with the cloud of lines that this ship would normally have.
Packaging: the usual flimsy folded white paper box with a few foam peanuts thrown in to attempt to minimize breakage. Box top has grainy black and white photo of actual ship as box art. Small parts all thrown into a single baggy that rattles around in the box.
This kit is of a subject that has been almost a Holy Grail among modelers. It is great to see a quality product for this ship.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1914.
Four small ships in one box. Also includes: Storm sloop, MO-4 hunting craft, and OD-200 hunting craft
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: see remarks for Combrig kit #70271, HMS Swiftsure as Triumph is a Swiftsure class battleship. kit contains assembly view and parts for a different venting arrangement of the stacks for this ship.
Packaging: more attention paid to packing with more peanuts in a tighter arrangement, otherwise the box and art work are of the same type as the Triumph kit.
(WJS), review dated 1 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1903.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Combrig is in the process of re-issuing their entire product line with improvements to the kits that may include photo etch parts in some cases and new castings in all instances. The kit numbers remain the same so this will make it difficult to tell what is in any given box. You may wish to consult their web site to see which kits have been re-tooled. Remarks in my reviews are NOT necessarily reflective for re-tooled kits. If the kit I have has been re-tooled I will note that in the review only if I am certain that is the case.
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit molded in a very light olive green. The hull is a one piece casting that includes basic superstructure above the main deck. My kit has a considerable amount of material to be removed along the waterline, a somewhat unusual state of affairs for Combrig as they are almost always very cleanly cast. The hull detail is good for this tiny kit with portholes and hatch covers along the sides of the hull in their correct approximate place. Deck detail consists of the usual large hatches and bollards and planking is deeply etched into the deck in continuous straight lines. There are no butt ends, coal scuttles or small hatch covers molded in. Ships of this era would have had their decks covered in these scuttles and hatches. The rest of the parts are cleanly molded and crisp with little to no flash. Decks are cast onto thin wafers that you must sand off to remove them. There were no warped or malformed parts in my kit at all. Masts and yards are all resin and quite delicate. They are unsuitable for rigging but can be used for patterns for brass rod or steel tubing if you rig your small ship models, most modelers don’t.
Directions: Consist of a single black and white double sided sheet. The front contains two line drawings of the ship with starboard and overhead views. The starboard side view shows a rudimentary rigging pattern. The rest of the front of the sheet consists of a canned history and statistics on the ship in Russian and English. The reverse consists of a photographic parts inventory and a simple blown up line drawing showing parts placement. You will need to flip back to the overhead drawing for boat placement. Considering the very few parts in the kit the drawing is adequate to construct the ship as provided. Super detailers will want to consult additional sources.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. No parts in my kit were broken, although I don’t know why not.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
FAIR.. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is all resin. All parts are cast in medium gray resin. One piece hull is cast up to the main deck, There is good surface detail on the hull but the deck lacks coal scuttles and other goodies like that. Good surface detail on the other parts but there is lots of flash to remove on both stubs on wafer castings. The main battery barrels seem to be really overscale. Brass rod or tubing is necessary to fabricate masts, yards and booms. You will need a set of plans to address things like boat fittings, cranes and rigging.
Directions:: one double sided sheet that contains line drawings of side and overhead views, basic statistics, a brief history, painting instructions, photo parts inventory and an exploded view assembly diagram. Drawings and diagram are not up to later standards of this company.
Packaging: typical flimsy folded paper box with a photo of the actual ship as the box art. Small parts are bagged, the hull is wrapped in a foam blanket and oddly enough the box is not filled with little foam peanuts in the usual Combrig manner, the parts rattle around in a mostly empty box.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1896. Presumably, Senyavin and Apraksin are similar.
Editor's Note: The rumor mill suggests that this kit has been cancelled. Presumably, Nakhimov, Lazarev, and Pyotr Velikii were to be similar.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Another good, well detailed kit, but fit is a problem. One of the main superstructure pieces does not fit well on the hull.
(DRW) review dated 5 February 2010.
Editor's Note: See notes under Moskva (ex-Slava)
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Grozny. (Kynda-class)
Editor's Note: See notes under Moskva (ex-Slava)
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Notes and caveats: box art states that the kit represents Vengeance in 1899 and features a black and white photo of the ship in Victorian livery. Before painting this ship be sure to check photographic references to match actual configuration to your choice of color scheme.
KIT PARTS: This is an all resin model with no photo etch included. All parts are molded in Combrig’s typical light gray resin. The hull and lower superstructure are molded in a single beautiful casting with only the tiniest bits of flash along the waterline that will disappear with a couple of swipes of the sanding stick. Deck detail is quite well rendered with finely engraved planking, however, there are no butt ends for the planks or coal scuttles that were prominent features on ships of this era. The skilled modeler can simulate these with drops of white glue or punched out plastic disks. The vast majority of modelers will probably not care one way or the other. The remaining parts are cast on a combination of stubs or sprues and a wafer for the decks. The parts are exquisitely rendered with little to no flash. Some of the tiny parts (and there are quite a few) will require great care to remove from their carriers without breaking. Davits for the ships boats are incredibly fine as are additional deck details and equipment. The barrels for the ships guns are also extremely well done and I don’t believe the additional purchase of brass barrels will be necessary. A significant omission should be noted for those modelers wanting to build the ship in pre-war or early war configurations: there are no parts included for the anti-torpedo nets, shelves and booms. As usual with resin kits the modeler is advised to have on hand a supply of brass or steel rod for rigging the masts. Plastic rod will do if no or simple rigging is intended.
DIRECTIONS: consist of two single sided sheets in black and white. All materials are in English. No painting instructions are noted. Sheet one contains a nice little canned history and discussion of the ship and its classmates as well as a brief armament and equipment list. The rest of the page contains two line drawings of the ship, one starboard profile and one overhead. You WILL need to reference these drawings to place the ships boats and the non-existent anti-torpedo equipment as well as to get a general idea of the complex rigging scheme on this vessel. You will need lots more than this if you want to rig the vessel accurately. Sheet two shows a parts breakdown, guide to cutting masts and yardarms and a exploded view line drawing of more or less where the included parts are supposed to go. This is typical of Combrig kits, they do not show assembly sequences.
Packaging: Typical flimsy white paper box with photocopied picture of the actual ship on the box top. Only small parts are bagged but foam peanuts were packed in my example to keep movement to a minimum. None of the parts in my kit were damaged, your mileage may vary.
This is not a kit for the beginning modeler. While the parts are molded to a high quality the omissions, rudimentary directions, lack of painting instructions and the fragile nature of resin as a medium require the modeler to be of an intermediate or high skill level.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Apparently, Ocean and Albion, are virtually identical. See Bill's comments on those two.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Painting Note, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of the Combrig #70407 MN Danton, the class leader. The kits are almost identical, however minor changes in the superstructure are reflected in the kit parts so that the builder can differentiate the class members.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Admiral Zozulya. (Project 1134/Kresta I Class)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Painting Note, Directions and Packaging: please see my review of the Combrig #70407 MN Danton, the class leader. The kits are almost identical, however minor changes in the superstructure are reflected in the kit parts so that the builder can differentiate the class members.
(WJS), review dated 12 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: Box top states that the fit of the ship is 1910, however, the photograph provided does not show anti-torpedo net equipment and could be either an as delivered photo or a later war photo. I would expect to find anti-torpedo net equipment in this time period. There is no anti-torpedo equipment provided in the kit either so if you want to build the ship with it you will have to fabricate netting, shelves, booms and boom rigging. I prefer to build my ships of this era without the netting but you may not.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with a supplementary fret of photo etch parts. The PE consists of vertical ladders, included stairways, funnel grills, flagstaffs, gangways, anchor chain, platforms and platform braces. Resin is cast in light gray. All resin parts are crisply molded with no flash, excepting of course, those parts molded onto a thin sheet of resin (mostly platforms and superstructure decks). Light sanding will free these pieces from their carrier. There is a plethora of tiny, delicate resin cast parts in this kit. Great care will be needed to keep from breaking them when you remove them from their casting plugs ( a fine toothed razor saw works well on these plugs). The one piece hull is a truly gorgeous casting. The hull (two deck levels cast in) is just crammed full of detail. While planking is etched into the deck in continuous lines without butt ends the rest of the detail is marvelous. Combrig has cast into the deck numerous hatches and coal scuttles typical of vessels of this period. While these will be a bear to paint it is great to see them on this kit. This is typical of recent castings by Combrig of ships from this era and has hardly ever been done by other companies. Locator outlines for the superstructure parts are also cast in to assist assembly. Masts and yards are cast in resin and should be replaced with brass rod or steel tubing if you wish to rig this ship. If not, they are perfectly fine the way they are.
Directions: typical Combrig consisting of two one-sided black and white sheets. The first has a starboard side drawing of the ship with no pattern of rigging and an overhead drawing view showing placement of the ship’s boats. It also contains a history of the ship and some statistics on armament and equipment. The second page consists of a photographic inventory of parts and line drawings showing parts placement. They do not show boat placement or give any hints as to where and how you might install anti-torpedo netting after you fabricated it. While the drawings themselves are clear they are also rudimentary. You can build the kit with them but prior experience in this era ship would be very valuable.
Packaging: flimsy white paper folded into a box with a fuzzy black and white photo of the ship on the top. Hull is loose in the box, small parts are bagged and a bunch of foam peanuts are added to hinder rattling around. No parts in my kit were broken, although I don’t know why.
This is an excellent kit for the HSF fan but some experience in resin would be a big plus. The weakness of the kit is in the instructions not the casting or engineering. This is a fault shared by many resin kits.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Presumably, similar to Kronstadt. (Kresta II-class)
EXCELLENT, with a caveat. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is essentially the same as the Combrig #70196, Brandenburg. There is some differentiation in main and foremast platforms. All other remarks are the same with the exception of the directions. While the second sheet of the directions does reflect the platform differences it contains only a single blow up drawing of the assembly of the parts and inexplicably leaves out the placement of the boats and boat platform braces. It would be best to obtain a copy of the Brandenburg’s directions for this function. I believe they may be on line at Combrig’s site. The lack of placement directions for these braces will make this kit REALLY hard to finish. I don’t understand such an omission.
This is a serious fault in an otherwise excellent kit.
Somewhat compounding the annoyance of the prospective builder is the box top illustration. It shows the ship with full anti-torpedo equipment. As noted in the Brandenburg review no such equipment is included with the kit.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
OOB: A fine model, well detailed with just a couple minor casting flaws. She depicts one of two Sverdlov class CLs that was converted to a command cruiser. In her case X position 6" turret was replaced by an OSA-M (SA-N-4) SAM launcher. One small personal complaint is that most of the superstructure is moulded to the hull. While this makes construction simpler, it complicates painting the deck, and also makes it difficult to convert her to the Admiral Senyavin, which lost both after turrets in favor of a hangar and OSA-M launcher. (JP)
Editor's Note: Presumably, Drozd, Sevastapol, and Vladivostok are similar.
Contact Mike Czibovic for more information. (DRW)
| Chicago | Detroit | Floating Drydock | Garcia Class | Houston | Knox Class | Louisville |
| Northampton | Phoenix/Honolulu | Ranger | US Navy 5"/38 Guns | US Navy 5"/25 Guns | Vestal |
EXCELLENT. (based on in-Box Review)
Note: This kit now comes with a fret of photo etched brass from Tom’s Modelworks #716 which includes cranes, catapults, platform support structures and other necessary bits for radar and masts that improve the furnished resin parts for those items. My kit did not come with railings. Otherwise as to quality of molding, casting detail, etc. please see my remarks on Corsair Armada #7014, Houston CA-30.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1942. See also notes under Northampton Class.
Portrays the ship in 1945.
Excellent model, finely detailed. (JP)
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with some plastic rod included to finish the masts and yards. There is no photo etch or decals included. The resin is a light gray that is cleanly cast with all pieces being highly detailed. I could find no miscast or malformed parts at all in my kit. The one piece hull casting incorporating a surprising amount of the superstructure was exquisitely done. The remaining parts are cast on a combination of pour bars or plugs and a bit of very, very thin resin wafer. The detail is extremely good and parts fit would seem to be excellent. Gun barrels are cast separately from the turret and are quite nice even though they are in resin. I would recommend that you obtain a photo etch detail set for the cranes, radar and catapults as this kit is so nice you just want to add that extra measure of detail. Parts are included to build this kit in pre-war fit or early war fit. You can also build it as USS Chicago (CA-29) of the same era. If you wish to add rigging to this model I would also advise that you use brass rod or tubing to create the masts and yards as the plastic just isn't up to the pressure generated by the attempt.
Directions:: consist of four one sided photocopied pages in black and white. Page 1 gives ship statistics, a brief history and references as well as photographs of the completed or partially completed model with call outs for the installation of the various parts. Page 2 is a parts inventory. Page 3 consists mostly of photographs of the finished model with some parts number callouts, spar arrangement on the main mast, gun and boat arrangement in the center of the ship. Page 4 illustrates further parts placement through photographs and alternate parts depending on the time period modeled.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with minimal marking only showing the maker name, part number, kit name and address of the maker. Parts in plastic bags with one crumpled piece of heavy packing paper as insulation against movement, nice try but no cigar. Once again, I have been lucky to have no damage to the parts.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Kit includes decals.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-Box Review)
Note: This kit has been retooled from an earlier version and is more accurate for the stated time and a bit crisper than the earlier kit. It now comes with a fret of photo etched brass from Tom’s Modelworks #716 which includes cranes, catapults, platform support structures and other necessary bits for radar and masts that improve the furnished resin parts for those items. My kit did not come with railings. Another feature is the inclusion of Corsair Armada’s very nice supplementary 20 mm guns. These are a little tricky to handle and assemble, especially for those of us with 10 thumbs but beautiful. Otherwise as to quality of molding, casting detail, etc. please see my remarks on Corsair Armada #7014, Houston CA-30.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Portrays the ship in 1944. Kit includes photoetch.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-Box Review)
Please see my remarks for Corsair Armada #7014, Houston CA-30 as they apply equally to this kit in terms of quality and contents. Newer versions of this kit may come with photo etched brass for cranes, catapults, platform supports, etc and a supplementary set of 20 mm guns as do the newer versions of Louisville and Chicago by Corsair Armada. Check with your vendor to be sure or inquire at the Corsair Armada web site.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
Portrays the ship(s) in 1941-42.
(DRW) dated April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a combination of old Dragon molds.
Editor's Notes: Possibly a combination of old Dragon molds.
EXCELLENT. Beautifully molded in clear plastic, this set features Panther, Skyraider (3 aircraft with spread wings and 3 aircraft with fold wings per type), and Cougar (6 aircraft with spread wings only). Bonus geometrical symbols decal is provided in special edition. Kit contains good assembly and painting instrustions.
(AS), Review dated 22 March 2010.
EXCELLENT. Beautifully molded in clear plastic, this set features Banshee, Corsairs (spread and fold wings), and Dragonfly helo, 6 aircraft of each type per set. Bonus geometrical symbols decal is provided in special edition. Kit contains good assembly and painting instrustions.
(AS), Review dated 22 March 2010.
Editor's Note: Scheduled for release April 2010.
FAIR. [In-box review] Late 50’s, early 60’s production. 42 injection-molded plastic pieces. Hull and superstructure scale well to references, deck fittings and weapons are not well detailed and “thick”, typical of the timeframe this kit was produced. Pilot house lacks side windows.
(MSP) Review dated July 2002.
Portrays the ship in 1940.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with no photo-etch or metal parts. One piece hull has fantastic detail incorporating not only the lower superstructure but also the stacks. All other parts are cast on pour stubs and are very detailed as well. There is some degree of flash but it is easily removed. Because masts and cranes are resin they may be hard to keep straight with rigging so you may wish to supplement or substitute with metal rod or tubing where necessary. Beautifully detailed kit will build up into an impressive model.
Directions:: brief history and basic statistics in Italian and English. Line drawings of side and overhead views, painting instructions and very limited exploded view diagrams of bridge assembly. Very careful review of parts list and line drawings will be necessary to assemble this model.
Packaging: cardboard box, minimally marked. Parts bagged and taped to bottom, box filled with foam peanuts, hull loose and unwrapped rattles around in box damaging the other parts.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. All parts are molded in tan resin. The hull is a highly detailed one piece casting incorporating most of the superstructure. The bottom of the hull will need to be sanded down to sit level. The whole hull casting is crammed with well executed detail. All other parts are well detailed and complete. Many are very delicate and will be difficult to work with. You will need to fabricate masts, yards, cranes and booms from metal rod or tubing. The resin davits look too flimsy to work with so substitution may be needed there also. As with all resin kits having a supply of metal rod or tubing on hand is a necessity. Main battery turrets and gun barrels are molded as one but look very good and easy to work with.
This kit is well worth seeking out.
Directions:: very extensive use of line drawings and exploded view assembly diagrams. Painting directions are also included.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a color photo of the built up model as the box art. The hull is wrapped in bubble wrap, the small parts are bagged and then rolled in bubble wrap. Resin kits like this require extra care as the parts can be easily damaged with improper handling, my kit did have some damage to the small parts and that is fairly typical of these kits. As they say, you're a modeler, fix it.
(WJS), review dated 19 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship in 1915.
Metal model
Includes 2 Corvettes.
10 Floatplanes/Seaplanes
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1910.
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Note: This kit contains parts to build either RN Napoli or RN Roma. If you are as compulsive as I am you will buy two of them and build them both...
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit molded in medium gray. There are no photo etch frets, metal parts, flags, decals or brass rod included with the kit. You will need brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and yards. The molding on all parts is highly detailed and virtually flash free. There are some wispy bits of flash around the incredibly delicate boat davits and some flecks around the ship's waterline but that was about it on my kits. As is the usual practice with models of this type the hull and lower superstructure is molded in one piece and the modeler will be adding some small parts, stacks, platforms, boats, guns and masts. Be prepared to deal with some really tiny parts and the difficulty of removing them from the pour plugs without breakage. The maker has made this task as simple as it can be given the small size of many of the parts, just be patient. The gun barrels of the turrets are molded separately from the turrets. As you know from my other reviews I would prefer turned brass or aluminum main battery barrels on ships of this type, however, the resin ones provided are perfectly OK. This is a state of the art kit very similar in quality to the new kits from Combrig. I certainly can’t say that this will be an easy kit to assemble, given the number of small parts but you will be pleased with your purchase of this kit.
Directions:: two large double sided sheets in Italian with some things called out in English. The first page is primarily a list of the statistics for this class of ship including all members and contact information for the manufacturer. Page 2 shows line drawings of the starboard side and overhead shot of the ship with painting instructions in Italian and English called out in Humbrol colors. Page 3 consists of two starboard line drawings, one each of Napoli and Roma showing the differences in the parts placement for the two ships. Page 4 consists of a line drawing of the parts, by way of inventory and another overhead view of the ship showing parts placement that focuses mostly on the placement of ship's boats and deck guns. Careful study will be needed to make sure that parts placement is correct.
Packaging: thin cardboard box in blue and white with the company logo on the top and a small sticker on one end indicating the contents. Parts are in plastic bags that have been stapled to the sides of the box to keep from moving. Nice idea, but, most of the add on parts are all jumbled into one bag so any serious rattling will give you lots of broken bits. Luckily enough, mine was pretty much unscathed.
These kits are not easy to find in the US but can be ordered directly from the maker if you can't get them from your usual source (my source was Pacific Front Hobbies).
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1904.
VERY GOOD. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit molded in dark gray and darker gray. There are no photo etch frets, metal parts, flags, decals or brass rod included with the kit. You will need brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and yards. The molding on all parts is highly detailed but a bit flashy, with some heavy bits along the bottom edge of a number of key parts like the turrets. However, most of the parts are pretty much flash free. As is the usual practice with models of this type the hull and lower superstructure is molded in one piece and the modeler will be adding some small parts, stacks, platforms, boats, guns and masts. Be prepared to deal with some really tiny parts and the difficulty of removing them from the pour plugs without breakage, ships boats being a case in point. If you are not careful you will cut the bottom out of the boats when removing them from their pour plugs or sprues or whatever they are. The maker has made this task as simple as it can be given the small size of many of the parts, just be patient. The many vents carried on this ship appear to be nicely done. The gun barrels of the turrets are molded separately from the turrets. As you know from my other reviews I would prefer turned brass or aluminum main battery barrels on ships of this type, however, the resin ones provided are perfectly OK.
Directions:: three standard size double sided sheets of black and white photocopies. Page 1 consists of a recitation of the ship’s statistics, in Italian along with contact information for the manufacturer. Page 2 consists of starboard side and overhead line drawings with paint callouts in English and Italian. Actual colors would best be sourced from White Ensign Models as the directions are only in general color names. Page 3 consists of line drawings of the parts for inventory purposes and a starboard side view of the ship. Page 4 gives exploded view drawings of the various rigging points for masts and yards (a very nice and rare touch for kits in this scale, but only for the truly gifted modeler or his trained spider). Page 5 consists of line drawings of starboard side and overhead in 1/565 scale with callouts for part placement on the superstructure. Moderately helpful at best. Page 6 is a close up line drawing of the center overhead of the ship showing primarily boat and davit placement. You might want to get some photos of this one before trying to put it together.
Packaging: thin cardboard box in blue and white with the company logo on the top and a small sticker on one end indicating the contents. Parts are in plastic bags that have been stapled to the sides of the box to keep from moving. Nice idea, but, most of the add on parts are all jumbled into one bag so any serious rattling will give you lots of broken bits.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with NO photo etch included. To complete this kit you will have to provide metal rod or tubing for masts and you may wish to obtain a PE detail set. My example may have been an early production kit, later kits may have had content changed or upgraded since. You should check with the manufacturer.
The one piece hull is cleanly and beautifully cast. Deck detail is superb, especially the planking aft and the breakwaters. Minor cleanup will be needed on the bottom to remove excess resin from the casting process ( a minor task). All parts have great surface detail. There does not appear to be any incomplete or miscast parts. The usual cautions will have to be taken when removing small and/or delicate parts from their casting plugs or stubs. However, there are no great big thick casting wafers to worry about. Note, there will be some difficulty with the large casting of the lower superstructure as it is cast on a thick, full length plug. You will need a large razor saw to remove it and some serious sanding to even it out.
Italian battleships of this era were really gorgeous designs and this kit does them justice. Painting the camouflage of the period will be very challenging but colorful to say the least.
Directions:: a mix of Italian and English text with one major exploded view assembly diagram. Painting instructions are good when used with the illustrations provided. Otherwise, the directions for this kit are merely adequate.
Packaging: minimally marked cardboard box with a color photo of the completed model as the box art. Hull is bubble wrapped but the other parts are carelessly bagged with consequent damage to the delicate parts and the gun barrels of the main battery (hint, buy some after market turned brass or aluminum gun barrels for this kit). The box was then filled with foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 26 February 2006.
Portrays the ship at Tobruk in 1940.
Diorama Set For San Giorgio.
Check out their web site (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (in-box review) Another Skywave reissue, (see Jodie's review of the earlier kit) but now with a lower hull included. The kit also includes parts and instructions to make Australian Perth-class DDGs. Issued 1996.
GOOD. The Alfa is kind of small in this scale, but it's certainly easy to assemble. Painting is a bit of a trick, as usual... The Ohio also goes together easily. (DRW)
GOOD. Also released by Testors (kit 902). A 1:700 scale polystyrene kit which includes a TU-95 "Bear" aircraft and two Kamov "Hormone" helicopters. These kits were released about the time the "Hunt for Red October" film was released, and are part of a series of constant scale submarine kits. This kit includes a fairly decent 1:700 representation of the USS Ohio class of SSBNs.
Overall, the accuracy of the Ohio is reasonably decent, although the vertical end plates on the sternplane should be longer than they are high. There should also be towed array dispensers on their ends. Again, there are engraved panel lines on the hull of the Ohio which do not belong on a submarine model. The hull cylinders are welded together, and the weld beads ground down to 1/16the inch flush of the hull. The forward end of the missile "turtleback" should be blended into the hull with some putty. The space created where the turtleback joins the hull along the side should be left open- it is a flooding slot. A 7 bladed scimitar photoetch propeller from Flagship Models (FM 700-14) greatly enhances this kit.
The tiny Alfa (Project 705 Lira class) that comes with this kit was a "best guess" at the time. The stern should be more elongated and tapered, rather than the blunt stern on the kit. The forward diving planes are actually slightly more than halfway down the hull, not as high as the kit planes. The top rudder and hinge line appears fine, the bottom hinge line is not correct. The propeller should be a five bladed affair, with two teardrop shaped, auxiliary maneuvering motors almost at the stern plane tips. These motors have two-bladed propellers. Also missing (not known at the time) is a prominent scoop a little more than halfway back on the side of the hull near the bottom. This brings seawater in to cool the reactor at high speeds, eliminating pumps.
Overall, a good but not exceptional kit. (TD)
See Dallas vs. Alfa, below.
EXCELLENT.
Kit well accords to modern standards, depicting first USN attempt to run angled deck. Hull and superstructure seem about right. Clear version of deck is provided along with grey plastic one supplying you ith great amount of spare plastic. Also, aircraft provided is beautifully molded in clear plastic. Pair of each, Banshee, Phantom, Cougar, Corsair, Cutlass, and Dragonfly.
(AS), Review dated 11 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, this is a variant of DML's Essex-class. It was first issued around 2007.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I have built and reviewed the Hi-Mold # 039, 1941 Arizona. I have also purchased in the past the old Revell 1/720 kit and the Trumpeter 1/700 kit both of which I threw in the trash. I purchased this kit originally to canabalize for parts for some other older resin kits, however, because I loathed the MS-1 paint scheme that I used for the Hi-Mold Arizona when I built it I decided to build this one too using the earlier Standard Navy Gray scheme of late 1940, early 1941. Something you should think about before building your ship is how much you will like the finished paint scheme...
Note 2: There are several versions of this kit out on the shelves. The first version was, as I understand it, an all plastic kit. The second version, marked with a yellow sticker on the box top stating “Special Version” which I will review here and a third version called Deluxe. I believe that the Deluxe and Special versions contain different photo etch parts.
Kit Parts: This is, of course, an injection molded plastic kit. However it does include additional items not found on most other plastic kits. In addition to a decal sheet there is also included turned brass main battery gun barrels (as well as plastic ones in the kit), some of the parts are molded in a weird soft vinyl that has great detail but doesn't give me a good feeling about construction. There is also a photo etch sheet of railings and a few other small parts. The catapults, cranes and aeriels are all molded in plastic or vinyl. The detail on the hull is excellent, especially the hull sides. The deck is finely engraved in the areas calling for wood planking but the whole effect is seriously marred by the division of the deck pieces. The main portion is cast into the hull but both bow and stern areas are cast separately and will have to be joined leaving a really difficult set of seams to deal with. This bit of strange casting is echoed in the lower waterline area hull plate. In that case the bow and stern are cast integrally with the hull and the major portion of the center must be glued into the hull. Surface detail is excellent and there is very little flash found on the parts. The ship's boats and aircraft are cast in hard, clear plastic on their own sprue. The photo etch consist almost entirely of two and three bar railings with no gutter along the bottom, so that your attachment points will only be the bottom of each stanchion.
While this kit is far better than any other iteration of Arizona I have seen in this scale you will still need to buy a photo etch set for the cranes, catapults and aerials. Fortunately, the price of this kit is so low that it won't be a problem. Dragon may have remedied the PE defienctly in the more recently released kits.
Directions:: the usual multipage exploded view line drawings that seem to cover the bases sufficiently. Paint colors are called out in Creos (Gunze?) and Italeri numbers. As always with any kit painting instructions check with your sources before doing anything.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008. Editor's Note: The kit is said to portray the ship in 1941, and to have 154 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Almost the same as Invincible. Portrays the ship in 1991. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Re-issue of the Skywave Atlanta class, now with full hull option. This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2010. It is said to portray the ship in 1945. Presumably, this kit is a relative of DML's earlier Laffey kit.
Editor's Note: Issued around 2004. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2008. It is said to portray the ship in 1942.
GOOD. Expensive, but nice. I had some serious trouble fitting the forward deck/bow bulwark piece correctly. I ended up using lots of putty. Others claim not to have had this problem. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
This kit would appear to depict the Chandler just before she was handed over to the Taiwanese Navy in late 1998 or 1999. Launched in 1980 the ships of this class were originally built for the Shah of Iran's Navy but due to the sudden, unfriendly regime change they were taken over by the USN. They were sometimes derisively called the Ayatollah Class.
This is a plastic kit that includes a small fret of photo etch radar components and a decal sheet of warning circles, flags and hull markings. Strangely enough the decals do not include the squared off warning and landing zones. Those consist of raised lines cast into the deck that have to be painted in. Decals and painting instructions cover all members of the class. The upper hull is cast as one piece with the deck except for an insert of bow decking. There were no sink holes or indentations in my kit but I have seen others that have had them. This hull casting differs from the other similar Spruance class castings in that the deck is flush without any of the superstructure cast into it. It has been brought to my attention that there is an alignment problem with the after funnel assembly (subassembly F). The directions and locator holes have it along the centerline of the ship and it should be shifted to starboard about as far as possible for correct alignment. Check this out with plans and photos to see exactly what needs to be done.
The lower hull is a package of parts from the Ticonderoga kit that has the lower hull split vertically. The upper hull is cast smooth on both sides and aft. The modeler will need to consult plans or photographs to add the necessary hull detail from plastic stock (which, in this scale, isn't all that much, but still quite prominent in the photographs of the ships). The parts are very well cast and flash free with good surface detail.
This is a very nice kit that I would recommend to anyone looking for more modern subject matter than the usual WW2 subject. The direction are easy to follow although I would suggest that the modeler take care with the painting suggestions and follow up with some photographic research to pick out details and check on that alignment problem.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a close relative of the DML 1/700 Spruance class. Issued late 2005. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same kit as the C. F. Adams, below. The clipper bow and bow-mounted SQS-23 sonar are correct for this ship. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same kit as the Spruance, below. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 941 SSBNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Typhoon", and DML labelled them as such. Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project 941 SSBNs (Russian "Akula", NATO "Typhoon") should not be confused with the Project 971 SSNs. (Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO "Akula") (DRW)
FAIR. The Dallas is simply an early Los Angeles class, often simply called a "688" boat. It isn't bad, except for the vertical stabilizers on the tail planes. Just cut them off. Yes, they've got the wrong number of blades on the propeller, but the real number is supposed to be a secret.
The Typhoon has some well-documented problems with the stern. As Tom notes below, the "Beaver tail" is completely wrong. Apparently, several sources in the 1990s (including Norman Polmar's 1986 and 1991 editions of "The Naval Institute Guide to the Soviet Navy") showed the "Beaver tail" in diagrams, so DML can be forgiven for their error. More recent photos of the actual sub (which Tom supplied to me) show a very different stern. I'd need more references to authoritatively correct it. (DRW)
FAIR. 1:700 scale polystyrene kit which includes SH-60B Seahawk helicopter, P-3 Orion and S-3 Viking aircraft. These kits were released about the time the "Hunt for Red October" film was released, and are part of a series of constant scale submarine kits.
The Dallas kit features a number of anomalies. The stern planes have the tow vertical endplates ("tail fins") that are also found in the larger 1:350 scale Dallas kit from the same manufacturer. The Los Angeles class of SSNs do not have these vertical endplates, although the preceding Sturgeon class SSNs did. There should be a towed array dispenser fairing on the end of starboard sternplane. Also featured are engraved panel lines on the hull. While these are certainly welcome on aircraft kits, submarine hulls do not have engraved panel lines. Current submarine hulls are welded, and the weld bead ground down to within 1/16th of an inch of the hull. Result: the hulls are very smooth. The sail in the kit is a bit too tall for the LA class, closer to the preceding Sturgeon class. The forward hatch is too far forward, it is much closer to the sail. There are sets of large oversize "pegs" running down the topside- these need to be removed. The kit propeller is semi bloblike and poorly cast, replace it with a Flagship Models 1:700 photoetch modern submarine propeller (FM 700-14).
The Russian Typhoon class SSBN (Project 941, Akula class) is a scaled down version of the same company's 1:350 model. As we now know, the stern on the Typhoon kit is totally wrong. There is no large central stern diving plane ("beavertail"), rather there are two smaller sternplanes abaft the propellers, which are themselves enclosed in shroud or duct. Other features such as the dual safety rail are raised and exaggerated.
Although this kit was popular (and fetches a good price at auctions), it can only be assessed as fair in terms of accuracy and assembly fit. (TD)
See Yushio vs. Delta III, below.
EXCELLENT. The first in a long-desired series of new-tool Essex-class ships in 1:700 and an entire universe removed from the venerable Hasegawa kit. Unlike Hasegawa, Dragon's upper hull is a single molding; a separate tool produces the hull for the long-bow ships. Dragon also includes a nicely-appointed hangar deck. You're given the option of a clear plastic flight deck to permit viewing of the hangar deck, but that just strikes me as goofy (though it's just the sort of thing for those who are into that sort of thing). A nice lower hull with well-done machinery is also included, as is a very nice sheet of photoetched brass.
Dragon appears to be doing what Trumpeter has done, which is to produce slightly different variations of the kit, with appropriate changes in weapons fit, sensors and other details, to represent different configurations during the war. The CV-9 issue is suitable for depicting any of the initial units (i.e., Essex, Yorktown, Bunker Hill, Lexington, etc.) as they appeared through early 1943 in basic as-built configuration. The 40mm gun sponson on the stern is a separate piece, allowing you to represent the correct non-sponsoned early stern of these units. (The separate sponson hints of issues to come.) There's also pieces to represent the hangar deck catapult outriggers alongside the forward hangar deck openings.
Dragon followed this issue with a long-hull unit, USS Randolph a couple months later. Many of the notes above will apply to those kits, with appropriate changes.
These are some of the very best injection-molded ship kits I've seen, truly state-of-the-art kits that should be the basis for a thousand projects. I give them my highest recommendation. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2005. Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note:Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/2, but now with full hull option. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 945 SSNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Sierra", and DML labelled them as such. Since the end of the Cold War, we now know their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Barracuda". (DRW)
Also Testors kit 904. Polystyrene in 1:700 scale. Includes TU-26M Backfire aircraft and Ka-27 Helix helicopters. These kits were released about the time the "Hunt for Red October" film was released, and are part of a series of constant scale submarine kits.
This kit contains a fairly decent model of the later Polaris/Poseidon missile submarine USS Ben Franklin. The overall hull shape is quite good, with the correct larger upper rudder. The sail also appears to be correct, if a bit rudimentary as to masts & cockpit features. The engraving on the deck for the missile tubes and safety rails is quite nice. The front of the "turtleback" covering over the missiles should be smoothed in with a small amount of putty. This is the area forward of the sail where the turtleback slopes to meet the hull. Retain the open slot along either side where the turtleback meets the hull. The propeller in the kit, a 4 bladed version, is totally wrong. These submarines all had 7 bladed scimitar shaped propellers. Use a photoetch version from Flagship Models (FM 700-14). Overall, though, a very credible representation of this SSBN class.
Along with the Franklin comes the Soviet Sierra class SSN (Project 945, Barracuda class). Again, this kit was prepared before definitive data was available. We now know that the Sierra does not taper as smoothly as the kit does (kit taper starts right after the sail). More than 1/3rd of the Sierra is a constant diameter hull, with hull taper beginning almost halfway further astern than the kit taper. The sail height is too low on the kit. The propeller is set back further from the stern control surfaces. Also there is a reactor cooling seawater intake scoop on the side of the hull near the bottom in the area of the engineering spaces. It would take some work to achieve an accurate Sierra class model from this kit. (TD)
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued by:
Editor's Note: See Kirov.
OK. This is a rework of their old USS Dallas kit, and they give you a correct stern to replace the incorrect one on the hull. You cut off the old stern with the incorrect vertical plates on the stern plane, and replace it with one that lacks these plates, has the towed array dispenser, and even correctly scribed stern plane hinges. Add to that a new propeller that is larger, closer to the real thing in shape, and turns in the right direction, unlike the old kit prop.
Unfortunately, they totally miss with the Hampton bow section and VLS tube doors. It has the wrong pattern for the doors (3+3 instead of 4+2 on each side of the centerline) and the doors are too small in width by quite a bit. (TD)
Editor's Note: Same as Spruance, below.
Editor's Note: Almost the same as Invincible. Portrays the ship in 1991. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same as Spruance, below.
Guns Elevate: yes.
GOOD / VERY GOOD. The Ingersoll and Hewitt offer the only ASROC armed Spruances in this scale so any early year versions you wish to build will have to come from one of these. This kit shows the ships after the installation of ABL (Armored Box Launchers) for the Tomahawk cruise missile. Only four ships were so equipped. The rest of the class received the Mk 41 VLS instead.
The mast is a little thick (all of the whip antennas should be noted). These ships all had the SPS-40 air search radar, except the Hayler which had the far superior SPS-49. The refueling stations are not good at all. They are molded into the side of the superstructure and are missing a lot of detail.
This class went through only a few modifications before the end of their very short careers. The only noticeable changes made was the addition of the VLS in place of the ASROC launcher and the addition of the Mk 23 TAS on the aft mast.
Other options to consider are :
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
Reissue of Skywave Independence, but now with full hull option. The lower hull tries to continue the Independence-class' large hull bulges, but the result is still a bit "boxy" No bilge keels. (DRW)
Editor's Note: DML has issued this kit as:
It has also been issued by Revell-Germany.
Portrays the ship in 1982. (DRW)
See Kirov .
Guns Elevate: yes.
EXCELLENT. The biggest problem is the missile radars. They are ok at best and with some work might be better. I hope that WEM or L' Arsenal will produce a replacement. The hull is the same hull at the other Spruance/Ticonderoga models produced by Dragon. The mast is different than those on the Spurance, but these still suffer from thickness and unless you are willing to fork out the time to build a brass one, it will have to do. All of the whip antennas should be made and installed. have to do and all of the whip antennas should be verified. The screws do not look correct. The variable pitch blades have a lot more flair on the trailing edge than those in the kit. With photo-etching (rails, radars, whip antennas hatches, etc…) will be awesome. The refueling stations are not good at all and need serious attention (I am still working on mine). Can be build as any of the four ships. There are a couple of websites with nice detailed photos for reference on fire stations, fixtures and risers.
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a variant of DML's Spruance kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 2003 Update: For years, we thought this kit was only a rumor. It looks like DML/Dragon has FINALLY released it! (it's almost too bad, since in earlier editions of this list, I had funny line about the mold being stored next to the Roswell UFO and the Lost Ark........) (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Crisp molding, many little bits. Feels like (and could be) a Skywave mold.
(AP) review dated February 2004.
GOOD-VERY GOOD. (based on in box review)
Note: please see my note concerning ship type designations in my review of the Trumpeter Russian Cruiser Varyag # 05721. This ship is even harder to classify than most. Functionally, the Kirovs were more like battleships or battlecruisers than anything else (they were even armored!), not to mention size, as these ships were enormous having hull sizes comparable to the USN Iowa class battleships.
Note 2: before the collapse of the Soviet Union the name of this ship was Kirov, the class leader.
Kit parts: this is an all plastic kit of 256 parts with a decal sheet of modern Russian (no Soviet era markings) flags and hull markings. Let me start off by saying that this is NOT the same kit marketed by Trumpeter. The parts are different. The Trumpeter kit also gives the option of full hull. This kit is waterline only. The parts are cleanly molded in two different types of plastic. The small parts (sprues apparently shared with other Dragon/Skywave kits) are molded in a harder, darker plastic than the remainder of the kit. This well executed and detailed kit has no apparent flaws such as sinkholes or malformed parts and is similar to other recent Dragon offerings. However, it just doesn't feel as crisp as the Trumpeter examples of the same class of ship. It is, very good, in its own right.
The crisper, cheaper Trumpeter version are a better buy.
Directions:: excellent multipage exploded views with painting directions using Creos (Gunze ?) and Italeri numbers.
Packaging: large, well decorated, thin cardboard box with parts bagged in layers.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2008. It is said to portray the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See Essex Class. (DRW)
Editor's Note:Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/3. Not sure if it has the full hull option. Also sold as York, with the same kit number. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably similar to Bunker Hill, above.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as Ticonderoga, below. (DRW)
See Arleigh Burke. Mustin is a Flight IIa Burke class, so one might expect this kit to be a variant of the Burke kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Tiny, good fit, painting instructions on the box are wrong. Do some research. No modifications seem necessary. Be very careful when detaching parts from sprue, they are delicate, and may lose detail if care is not taken. (RND)
I agree with Rajen. You do get two boats in the box, and you can make two Nanuchka Is, two Nanuchka IIIs, or one of each. There are enough parts. One curiousity: The kit comes with eight sets of triple SS-N-9 tubes, but only four sets of end caps for the tubes. This leaves you with four very nice spare tube sets with no end caps. Why??? As for the painting instructions, for a Soviet Nanuchka, the decks should be rust colored. Other nations may have painted their boats differently. Otherwise, the painting instructions are fine. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as Ticonderoga, below. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as Tarawa, below. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD.
Note: while I can do nothing but applaud the efforts of Dragon to bring a new and heretofore unseen subject (in plastic) on the market (the pathetic attempt by Revell in 1/720 and 1/426 to rebox the Arizona kits notwithstanding), I cannot help but be somewhat disappointed by the execution.
Kit Parts: this is a plastic model that includes decals and two frets of photo etch detail parts. The hull is split at the waterline. There is no base plate for the waterline display mode as is customary among other makers. The box is absolutely jammed with more parts that I have ever seen before in a plastic kit in this scale (including a couple of PT boats). The kit has sprues from the Dragon Arizona kit and from Dragons Essex class aircraft carrier kits as well as newly molded parts specific to the Pennsylvania. You will have tons of spare parts for your surplus bin when this is done. The upper hull (I only build waterline so the lower hull went right into the trash) is in one piece up to the 01 level and is a mix of good detail (planking and deck hardware) and no detail. The hull sides are virtually devoid of any kind of surface detail even though the actual ship was covered in projections such as plated over portholes, etc., that are clearly visible in photographs of the era and even in the kit’s nicely done box art!! This kit is a catalog of frustrations like that. Although great pains were taken to attempt to achieve accuracy and realism on most of the parts the building process is flawed because it would appear that it was a bit of an afterthought. An example is found in the photo etch parts that are to be attached to the different superstructure levels to give greater detail such as portholes and doors. The fit is a little iffy and when combined with the plastic parts is too wide to accept the jam packed galleries of over scale 20 mm guns. If you attempt to follow the assembly sequence in the directions for the different levels of the forward superstructure you will have those 20s flying around the room along with the choice words you will be muttering. Getting the foremast aligned and level is a real challenge as the alignment holes and slots tend to exert pressure on the whole assembly to tilt backwards to the stern. A few parts were also mislocated on sprues (the directions called for sprues that were not in the kit). The 40 mm guns were easy to assemble but seemed a bit oversimplified. Back to the 20 mm guns for a moment, in a addition to being over scale and too big for the superstructure they are somewhat strangely cast. The barrel and receiver being one part and the shield and pedestal as one part cast together. There are 53 of these assemblies to remove and assemble so this is no small matter. This method of casting the shields integrally with the pedestals aggravates the over scale effect considerably and could have been avoided had the barrel, receiver and pedestal been cast as one with a photo etch shield to be attached. The photo etch (in very hard brass, that folded well when fold lines were included) provided is fairly extensive, going so far as to include a full set of two bar and three bar railings as well as many other parts but strangely omits the aircraft catapult. You will have to buy a supplementary photo etch set just for that or be satisfied with having a clunky plastic catapult right next to a nicely etched and detailed crane on the stern.
I cannot caution the builder of this kit enough, test, test and retest the fit of every part and level before picking up the glue. Before painting be sure to remove the persistent mold release agent on the plastic which resisted my usual dish detergent wash and caused fish eyes in the acrylic paint I was using. I was disappointed in the fit of the superstructure parts, the over scale 20 mm guns and the lack of detail on the hull sides. However, so much of the rest of the kit was quite good that those defects seemed to be magnified. Bear in mind that your only other choice (at this time anyway) is an expensive resin kit. A newbie will find this kit frustrating and an old hand will be annoyed by the glitches.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit (or close variants of it) has been issued as:
EXCELLENT. Really nice. Re-issue of Skywave, but now with lower hull. One warning though: I compared the lower hull with the drawing of FFG-8 in Norman Friedman's "US Destroyers: an Illustrated Design History", and the bilge keels in the kit do NOT match those in Friedman's book. Now, Friedman did indicate that "later units" would have fin stabilizers, and that seems to be what DML is trying to reproduce here. I don't know if the early units were retrofitted with fin stabilizers, so we can't be sure if the bilge keels and fin stabilizers are correct for FFG-7 and 8 at any point in their careers. Caveat Emptor!! (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
The kit's overall appearance depends about 99% on how well you assemble and fill/sand the three main pieces (port hull piece, starboard hull piece, "hump" above missle tubes). The fit is OK out of the box with careful gluing but you will need to fill and sand. Do it right and the kit looks great. Do it wrong...
Detail is good, with decals for the periscope camo designs, depth marking and hull markings. You can assemble the 24 missle tube hatches open or closed. You get a choice of two types, four missles of two vintages to display in the tube or alongside. For no clear reason you also get two 1/350 Seahawks, soft on detail but with full decal sets.
Painting instructions only give one scheme, anti-fouling red up 3/4 of the hull with number markings on the sail. You'll need your own photos if you want to show the sub otherwise. Decals are provided for the whole class' numbering.
A fun kit to build, requiring only a couple of evenings. The finished kit is big and nasty looking, a nice piece on the shelf. (PVB)
This kit has some nice detail, although the fit of the parts is less than perfect in some instances. Includes opening door assemblies for all 24 missle tubes. Door hinges were a bit akward to get to work right and be straight, required some careful trimming of parts. Kit includes option of Trident or Trident II missles, no way except gravity to get them out of tubes. I capped the tubes with caps provided. Kit also includes torpedos, which can only be shown in process of launching. Also includes two Seahawk helicopters, not sure how to use these. The landing gear struts for the Seahawks were placed on the sprue in such a way that two of them broke in two while attempting to cut them off sprue. Made replacements from two of the four torpedos.
Kit includes decals for camo job on optional masts/periscopes, and numbers for all of the Ohio class boats.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
GOOD. The T-girl went together quite nicely, but it was a bit harder to get the two hull halves of the big Oscar-class SSGN to go together smoothly.
After seeing more recent sketches of Oscar-class SSGNs in light of the Kursk disaster, I'm even more suspicious of the hull cross-section on the DML kit. The DML kit's cross section is squarish with rounded corners. Sketches I've seen recently suggest that the hull cross-section of an Oscar-class is more oval shaped. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Kirov. As of late 2003, we can finally confirm the existance of this kit.(DRW)
See Independence class.
Editor's Note: Variant of Spruance, below.
EXCELLENT. Great. This is a Dragon Spruance with the updated RRCS (Reduced Radar Cross Section) mast. This was installed to test some of the original design ideals later incorporated in the new LPD ships now being built in the New Orleans area.
I had planned a conversion for this very ship but Dragon beat me to it! Thank God!
Great addition and smart move by Dragon. Probably cost nothing to add this to the kit. The parts for the Spruance are still in the box. The same flaws mentioned for the Kidd still apply.
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
This kit depicts the Radford after her conversion to an experimental program of design sometime in 1998 for the DDX program testing stealth masts and radar arrays. It makes for one weird looking ship that I just had to have for my collection.
This is a plastic kit that includes a small fret of photo etch radar/sensor components and two decal sheets of warning circles, flags and hull markings. Strangely enough the decals do not include the squared off warning and landing zones. Those consist of raised lines cast into the deck that have to be painted in. The upper hull is cast as one piece with the deck except for an insert of bow decking. A portion of the superstructure is cast into the deck. There were no sink holes or indentations in my kit but I have seen others that have had them. The lower hull is a package of parts from the Ticonderoga kit that has the lower hull split vertically. The upper hull is cast smooth on both sides and aft. The modeler will need to consult plans or photographs to add the necessary hull detail from plastic stock (which, in this scale, isn't all that much, but still quite prominent in the photographs of the ships). The parts are very well cast and flash free with good surface detail.
This is a very nice kit that I would recommend to anyone looking for more modern subject matter than the usual WW2 subject. The direction are easy to follow although I would suggest that the modeler take care with the painting suggestions and follow up with some photographic research to pick out details.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Variant of Spruance, below, wth updated RCS mast. Issued circa 2006.
Editor's Note: See Essex Class. (DRW)
See Arleigh Burke. Roosevelt is a Flight IIa Burke class, so one might expect this kit to be a variant of the Burke kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Atlanta Class. (DRW)
EXCELLENT Basically same kit as the Tarawa, but with a later weapons fit and the parts from the Marine Amphibious Force kit, giving the ship a more up-to-date airwing, including Harriers, LCACs and even V-22. Still no RAM launchers, so you'll have to scratch-build them to make a current LHA. Gold Medal and Flagship both make large upgrade PE sets. (JP)
Editor's Note: Announced 2010.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/1, but now with full hull option. Lower hull is a bit wide, and must be trimmed to fit correctly. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of Perry Class, with different decals. Kit also includes markings for HMAS Adelaide & HMAS Canberra (DRW)
Editor's Note: Aparently, this is a re-issue of Skywave Sovremenny. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit offers the best VLS armed Spruance in this scale so any versions you wish after the US modified them should come from this one. The mast is a little thick (all of the whip antennas should be noted) and refueling stations are not good at all and need serious attention. Other options to consider are:
GOOD/VERY GOOD.
This is an all plastic kit with a set of decals for deck markings and hull markings. The hull, while molded as a full hull has provision inside for the waterline modeler to score along a plastic guide point to waterline the ship and affix a waterline plate underneath, which I did as I prefer waterline models, it wasn't difficult at all for those thinking about it. The kit components were for the most part cleanly molded and well detailed. The kit masts are too thick but serviceable. I added a Gold Medal Models photo etch detail set to mine and it improved the kit immeasurably. You will also need some plastic or metal rod to simulate the multiple antennae this ships were equipped with. The only quibbles I had with the ship were problems in assembly and using the decals. Normally for ships of this type I will assemble the components separately before painting to make that easier which I did so here. Unfortunately, with this ship there is a problem aligning the forward part of the superstructure with the deck. It isn't a deal killer by any means but be sure to work that out before painting or assemble the parts to the deck before painting. Yeah, I did it backwards on this one. Some of the warning circle decals need to be trimmed down in size in order to fit on the deck where they are supposed to. Mine was one of the original issue kits and later moldings may not have either of these problems.
Directions and packaging are very good.
(WJS), review dated 14 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
Also note the DML's related Kidd Class.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of Skywave Spruance, but now with full hull option. The lower hull is reasonably nice. It's in two main pieces, split along the keel. The SQS-53 sonar dome looks pretty good, although it might be pushed a little too far forward. The bilge keels are kind of heavy, but acceptable. (DRW)
This kit has been released as:
See also the following related kits:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Again, painting instructions are faulty!! (RND)
GOOD. Like the Nanuchkas, the decks should be painted a rust color instead of blue-grey, at least for a Soviet boat. Other nations may have painted theirs differently. With a Skywave Soviet Weapons set, you should be able to make a Taruntul III (Project 1241.7) without too much difficulty. You get two Tarantuls and two Osas in this kit. This kit is cheap and easy to assemble. I like it! (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Some parts need additional detailing such as the hangar and well deck, unless you decide to close them up. You have to buy their US Marine Amphibious Force "upgrade" kit to get Harriers and LCACS, since this is an "as-built" model with standard landing craft and LVTPs, no Harriers, and the original defensive armament of Sea Sparrow and Phalanx. The weaponry will need an upgrade, though nobody makes a 1/700 RAM launcher.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
This kit has been released as:
(see Oscar vs. Trafalgar)
Similar to Bunker Hill, above.
Editor's Notes: Re-issue of Skywave Ticonderoga, but now with full hull option. As one might expect, it uses the same lower hull from the Spruance class kits. (DRW)
This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably a close relative of DML's Bismarck kit. Issued around 2004. (DRW)
(see Dallas vs. Typhoon)
Editor's Notes: The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 941 SSBNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Typhoon", and DML labelled them as such. Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project 941 SSBNs (Russian "Akula", NATO "Typhoon") should not be confused with the Project 971 SSNs. (Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO "Akula") (DRW)
FAIR. The stern is completely fictitous. I have sent a number of people the corrected stern drawings. The big central beavertail diving plane doesn't exist on the real thing. Instead, there are two smaller stern planes abaft the propellers, and the propellers are shrouded. A few other items also need attention. Overall grade B- for the kit. (TD)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. Contains 2 CH-53E, 4 CH-46E, 2 AH-1W, 4 AV-8B, 2 V-22(!), 2 LVTP-7 landing craft, 2 M60A3 tanks, 2 LCM-6 landing craft and an LCAC. Good detail, slightly outdated paint jobs since US is repainting aircraft (again), and Marines are getting M-1s. Perfect for mid-80s to mid-90s, plus bonus of the V-22s. (JP)
Editor's Note:Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/3. I'm not sure if it has the full hull option. Also sold as Manchester, with the same kit number. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. This kit must have had a very limited release in the US. Package includes one P-3C and two HSS-2B Seakings, all in Japanese markings. The aircraft at least are all ex-Skywave but suffer a loss of detail in the retooling. However, details on the subs are quite good. If you've never seen a Delta before, it's the one with the huge, squared off missle compartment that extends far above the main pressure hull and meets the back side of the conning tower. As in other kits, one tube can be positioned "open" with an SSBM perched above it. The Yushio is quite small (similar to a Soviet Alpha). You will spend more time placing all the extremely tiny decals on the aircraft than in building the subs. Be prepared to experiment with your sub weathering techniques and using a decal setting solution to get those sub marking "unshiny" is a must.
(author unknown)
EXCELLENT. Also issued by Testors/Italeri, this kit was one of DML's submarine adversary series of the 1980s. The kit includes two full hull subs, an ex-Skywave P-3C Orion and two HSS-2B Sea King helicopters. The submarines are very nice with accurate outlines and delicately rendered surface details, building into convincing models right out of the box. I believe this is the only Soviet Delta III SSBN available in 1/700, and the DMLYushio is noticeably more delicate than the more recently released Arii and Pit-Road versions of the sub. I have only a few quibbles: first, the hulls are split horizontally below the surfaced waterlines and the fit is only so-so, making hiding the seams along those curved surfaces more difficult than necessary. Also, the Soviet Delta III SSBN has one tube designed to be shown in the open position with a missile, which is great, except if you want to depict it buttoned up. Then it is almost impossible to create a door/hull join that looks the same as the others. These nitpicks aside, both kits build without undue fuss into excellent little submarines.
(TR) Review dated 31 December 2008.
EXCELLENT. (with a Huge Caveat)
The kit depicts one the Kreigsmarine’s really big destroyers. It can be built as it served in the German Navy or as it was with the USN after the war. This is one of Dragon’s Smart Kit series which features slide mold technology and extreme detail, more about that later.
Parts: This is an injection molded kit with three frets of photo etched brass detail parts. The brass parts do not include railings. A fret of exquisitely molded sailors in various poses and a display stand for the full hull version is included as well. A waterline plate is included. The plastic parts are perfectly molded and loaded with detail, all in all, a beautiful example of current mold technology. Also in keeping with current technology the brass parts are integral to completing the kit rather than supplementary, this has serious consequences for the ten-thumbed among us. Fit of the plastic parts is excellent, again with a caveat. Dragon has presented a kit that is quite complex. Before buying this kit it is imperative that you consider this complexity. A good example of this can be found in the AA guns. In step one of the instructions the builder must assemble 12 AA guns. The first four "A" have no less than 16 separate parts six of which are photo etched. Five of the PE parts are about the size of the roller ball in a .5 mm pen, but flat! Some of the plastic parts are so tiny I was unable to clearly discern the the attachment points with a magnified headpiece on! Trimming the excess plastic from the parts was a nightmare. The rest of the guns weren’t quite as bad ("B" has 9 pieces, "C" has 14 pieces, "D" has 14 and "E" has 14). Note that each one of these subassemblies builds up into a weapon that is about a quarter of an inch. If you are not comfortable with working with extremely delicate and tiny parts do not buy this kit. Other assemblies such as the stacks are similarly complex.
Directions: lots of line drawings but somewhat confusing at times with the callout of the required parts in each step. Careful consideration of assembly order should be considered for painting purposes. Two color schemes are included, one for the late war KM and the other for the USN service.
Packaging: The usual thin cardboard box and plastic wrapped sprues. Unless horribly abused there should be no chance of damage to the parts from poor packaging.
The result, if you have the abilities required will be a spectacular model of this workhorse ship of the German Navy. Less than expertly skilled modelers should probably look to the competing Trumpeter kits. I have not found this kit to be at all fun, rather, it is more akin to micro surgery on gnats for my taste.
(WJS), review dated 24 January 2012.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this kit was re-issued by a company named Yamada, but I have very little information on them. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, re-issued by UPC.
| Borodino | Royal Sovereign | South Goodwin (lightship) | Suvorov | Tiger |
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2005. I don't know if this is any relation to the ICM Suvorov (Borodino class) that never turned up.....
Old FROG Trinity Lightship mold.
Old FROG Revenge mold.
Editor's Note: See Borodino Class.
Editor's Note: old FROG Tiger mold.
I've seen two addresses for Eagle, one in Surrey, and one in Brighton. Perhaps the company moved at some point.
Eagle has been out of business for decades. I do not know the fate of their molds.
Thanks to John Phillip Downing for his help in tracking down the information on Eagle. Thanks also to Donald Hood, for assistance and several corrections. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Quite rare. It was basically the Eagle HMS Warspite in an Eagle HMS Valiant box with Barham instructions. Only a few are known to exist. It is not know whether or not there was any overprint label on the outside of the box to indicate the HMS Barham contents. (DDH)
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Eagle released this kit as:
It has been reissued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Eagle released this kit as:
It has been reissued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: See notes under King George V
Editor's Notes: Said to be very rare. .
Editor's Notes: See notes under Lützow.
Editor's Note: Said to have about 25 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, the following kits are closely related:
Editor's Notes: Apparently, Eagle released this kit as:
It has been reissued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Presumably, the following kits are closely related:
Editor's Note: See notes under Dorsetshire.
Editor's Notes: See notes under King George V
Editor's Notes: Presumably very similar to the Admiral Hipper. Said to have about 40 parts. For comparison, check out
Editor's Note: See notes under Lützow.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Bismarck. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Formidable. (DRW)
(TR) Review dated 22 March 2007.
| Enterprise | Essex | Hood | Illustrious |
| Lexington | Missouri | New Jersey | Tirpitz |
GOOD. Reissue of rare 1970s Bandai Hood (kit 23).
(TR), review dated April 20, 2007.
GOOD. Reissue from the "1/2000 Navy Collection" by Bandai in the 1970s, now produced in China by Eka (aka Fuzhou Yijia Plastic Products Co. Ltd.). The kit depicts the ship as she appeared during her World War Two service with a straight flight deck and Swordfish aircraft embarked. Measuring less than four and one half inches in length, this is a very small model. It is, however, surprisingly well detailed, consisting of 40 well molded gray and red plastic parts. As with the other kits in the series, it can be built either waterline or full hull using a separate two-part underwater section molded in red. Basic shapes are accurately reproduced, with island and funnel dimensions dead-on. The hull outline is correct also, with the prominent sponsons, recessed boat decks, and the characteristic knuckles forward all well captured. The lower hull includes a rudder and bilge keels but no propellers or shafts. Surface detailing is quite good throughout, with attractive raised porthole, roll-door, armor belt, and other details on the hull sides. The flight deck is especially nice, with delicate raised arrestor gear, lifts, and catapults. Unfortunately, the 8-barrelled MkVI 2pdr pom-poms are also represented as raised details, making them a bit flat. The eight separately molded QF 4.5 inch L/45 mounts are more successful, as are the four tiny directors, which are excellent. Like Revell's much maligned 1/720 scale Ark Royal the ship's boats are molded directly into the hull, but in 1/2000 this approach actually works pretty well. Smaller components such as the masts, antennae, cranes and two Swordfish aircraft are all separate parts, simplified but credibly rendered. They look good once painted.
Especially considering its size, this little Illustrious is a nicely done model kit, well worth a build, if you can find one!
(TR), review dated 8 June 2007.
(TR) April 2010.
VERY GOOD. This is the 1959 Revell Olympia kit reissued in gray plastic. It also includes an excellent photoetch set mastered by Flyhawk of China, resin bow and stern torpedo tube covers, and resin propellers. The high quality upgrade parts make this already good kit even better.
(TR) Review dated January 2012.
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT. This is the 1959 Revell Olympia kit in gray plastic and including the photo-etched parts and resin corrections of Encore kit #80001 above. In addition, there are beautiful Flyhawk laminate wood decks, turned brass replacement gun barrels, white metal details, and a wood base with brass stands and nameplate. The instructions have also been upgraded (with additional graphics, color, and on slick paper) to guide construction using the new parts. It is fun to see this old (out of production since 1999) kit back in production, and the state of the art upgrades Encore has provided bring this already good kit up to a whole new standard!
(TR) Review dated January 2012.
The Encore release again repeats the same plastic parts as the other issues, but this issue features good quality Scale Master decals with conning tower numbers, bridge windows, Guards insignia, emergency buoy markings, and Soviet naval ensigns. It also has good English language instructions with concise class histories and useful painting information for Baltic Sea Fleet, Northern Fleet, and Black Sea Fleet boats.
(TR) Review dated April 2010.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a re-issue of the Gunze Sangyo kit.
POOR/FAIR. Date unknown but from enclosed advertising no earlier than 1970, probably mid-late 1970s. Black hull, no copper plate detail, hull has linear plank engraving only, missing entire lower deck gun ports as even closed engravings. Medium brown plastic for masts, deck, small fittings. Fragile yardarms are not well protected in sprue layout and mine have suffered bendings of their ends in some cases, and the photo on the box shows that the prototype kit built for the photography suffered similar damage! Very crude vac-form sails. Overscale molded brown ratlines. The enclosed stand and the molding style bears strong resemblance to the Pyro sailing ship kits, but I don't recall if they had a VICTORY.
Model was made in Japan. (Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: I'm not sure if this is a re-issue, but there was indeed a Pyro Victory. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue c.1983 of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue c.1983 of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the MPC re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Ko-hyoteki (Ha-class) midget submarine variant used in the attack on Pearl Harbor.
Ko-hyoteki (Ha-class) midget submarine variant used in the attack on Sydney Harbor.
The kit includes two Kaiten models.
EXCELLENT. This is a special issue of the Kaiten kit to go along with the 2006 Japanese movie Deguchi no nai umi (Sea Without Exit). This limited edition is presumably identical to the dual kit above (it even has the same kit number) except that it comes with only a single Kaiten sub plus some printed info about the movie.
Blandly designated by the Imperial Japanese Navy as the "type 1 special attack craft", the Kaiten was little more than a standard "long lance" torpedo with a redesigned forward section to accommodate a pilot and an enlarged warhead. Even in 1/72 scale, this makes for a model of only slightly more than eight inches in length. Fine Molds captures the dimensions and shape of the little sub perfectly with 15 sharply molded parts which assemble easily. Despite the simplicity of the design, the kit parts have a surprising amount of discreet surface texture including rivets, weld lines, lifting points and other details. The model builds up quickly, the simple configuration showing just the right amount of detail. Painting instructions and markings are provided for three Kaitens: "operationally deployed" with black hull and a small white chrysanthemum marking, "training markings" with black hull, white upper and small white numbers "3" or "10" and a chrysanthemum, or "launching test from Kitikami February 1945" with black hull and a small white stripe forward. Also included in the kit is a simple 13 part rail dolly on which to display the Kaiten.
As ship model subjects go, the Kaiten human torpedo has got to be among the more obscure. Other than the miniscule versions included with a few 1/700 and 1/350 submarine kits, the only other offering I am aware of is the Kaiten type 2 subs included with the Lindberg 1/72 scale I-53. That one isn't bad, but this version of the earlier type 1 is noticeably finer and more detailed. Fine Molds' 1/72 Kaiten is an outstanding kit, a straightforward and well detailed study of this unusual little monster.
(TR) review dated 30 January 2010.
After FROG's demise, their molds went to the Soviet Union, where they were manufactured under the Novo label. Sadly, the molds were not well maintained. Their current status is unknown. Some of the Soviet made kits had lots of flash, plus other problems. Revell-Germany obtained the Revenge mold, and they have re-issued it as the Royal Sovereign. Revell seems to have cleaned up the mold somewhat. I don't know if Revell will re-issue any of the other FROG ships. FROG kits have also been re-issued under the Eastern Express label.
FROG is an acronym for "Flies Right Off the Ground". FROG ships are characterized by their 1/500 scale, two piece hulls, and distinctive four piece stands. (DRW)
Most of these FROG ships were sold in the US in the 1960s by UPC. I also remember from the 1960s having built a small multi-masted sailing ship, probably a Japanese kit, imported by UPC.
| Ashanti | Battle-class | Exeter | Hero | North Carolina |
| North Sea Lifeboat | Prince of Wales | Repulse | Revenge | Shell Welder |
| SouthGoodwin | Springfield | Tiger | Torquay | Trafalgar |
| Undine | Vanguard |
GOOD. The torpedo tubes look a little cheesy, but otherwise a good kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Different issue of Trafalgar. (see below) The hull is said to be about 14 inches long. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Just remember that this is the Exeter in her last configuration, not as she appeared in her legendary battle with the Graf Spee. (DRW)
GOOD. Depicts post 1939 fit, after Battle of River Plate repairs - increased AA. With addition of detail makes an excellent model. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
GOOD. I had some problems fitting the deck correctly, and the torpedo tubes look a little cheesy, but otherwise a good kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently a reissue of the Renwal North Carolina.(DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know much about this one. The hull is said to be about 9.5 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, reissue of Airfix King George V kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Repulse kit. (DRW)
GOOD. The superstructure lacks a few details, and there are no bilge keels, but overall, very nice. The 4 inch guns are rather odd: they sit on high tubular structures, sort of like very tall barbettes. These can be cut down with little difficulty. The deck does not seal nicely in the area of the casemate guns.
Still, a very worthwhile kit, especially for its age.
Novo also marketed this kit as Royal Sovereign/Archangelsk, but the forward superstructure is not accurate for that ship. (DRW)
OK. Generally good, but moulding of small parts are oversize. (GH)
As far as the basics, it is all there and reasonably accurate. The fit of the parts is typical Frog/Airfix of the time, especially the secondary armament casemates joins, which can leave a huge gap. Details are heavy, the twin 4" AA a bit on the molten blob with the part hidden deep in its depths (for a Michelangelo to free). But the kit is good and with the normal levels of skills on this list will make a good representation. A little scratchbuilding and some detail parts, and a contest winner resides therein. (MS)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
Editor's Note: Apparently a reissue of the Renwal Modified Cleveland.(DRW)
OK. Larger version of same ship as Airfix kit. Instead of lattice parts or solid opaque plastic for lattice masts, the parts of the masts that are lattices are molded in transparent plastic and the lattices are decals! Detail typical of other Frogs. (Brooks)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued by:
GOOD. Nicer appearance than Airfix destroyer-type models. Even attempts (out of scale) whip antennae. Was also sold as UPC in 1960s- 1970s. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: Also issued as Battle Class. Hull is said to be about 14 inches long. (DRW)
GOOD. (DRW)
GOOD. Nicer appearance than Airfix destroyer-type models. 1950s conversion of late War Emergency class destroyers to ASW frigates. Unusual appearance makes for an interesting model. Was also sold as UPC in 1960s- 1970s. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: I've only seen pictures and text descriptions of this one, but it looks almost exactly like the Hasegawa Vanguard. It may pre-date the Hasegawa version, but I'm not sure. Hull is said to be 22.375 inches long, which is exactly the same as the Hasegawa. (DRW)
GOOD.
Includes Zero (4x), Val (4x) and Kate (4x) per sprue. Comparable to Tamiya/Hasegawa kits. Planes are reasonably detailed, lacking gear. Molded in gray plastic. Two sprues per kit if packaged alone, doubling number of aircraft. One sprue molded in clear plastic is included in Zuikaku and Shokaku kits.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
GOOD.
Includes Seafire (4x), Sea Fury (4), Gannet (3x) and Wessex (2x) per sprue. Planes are reasonably detailed, with interesting feature for Gannet to have wings folded properly. No landing gear like in most of the Skywave kits, so you have to use PE parts. Wessex has too simplistic gear and too rough chopper, both should be replaced by WEM's PE parts. This aircraft set is supposed to complete airwings in Ark Royal and Eagle kits as of 1950's. Molded in gray plastic when packaged alone, containes two sprues, doubling number of aircraft. Ark Royal and Eagle have just one clear plastic sprue. Keep in mind that clear plastic is brittle!
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
GOOD.
Includes Wildcat (4x), Dauntless (4x) and Devastator (4x) per sprue. Comparable to Tamiya/Hasegawa kits. Planes are reasonably detailed, lacking gear. Molded in gray plastic. Two sprues per kit if packaged alone. No clear plastic versions observed.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit portrays the ship as she would have been completed. However, she never was. This vessel, (and sister ship Akagi) originally designed to be a battlecruiser, fell victim to the Washington Naval Arms Conference and agreements of 1922, and like Lexington and Saratoga in the USN was chosen by the IJN for conversion to an aircraft carrier. Fate was not kind to this ship as the hull was so seriously damaged in an earthquake that the conversion was abandoned and the ship scrapped. So, this is a ship that never was. I confess to a weakness for these and have bought resin models of other ships that never made it from the builders.
Kit Parts: this is an injection molded kit with a metal weight for the waterline plate and a decal sheet for the aircraft and flags. All parts except for the aircraft are molded in dark gray plastic. The aircraft is molded in brittle, hard to work with, clear plastic. This is one of the best Fujimi 1/700 kits I have ever seen. Molding is first rate with lots of surface detail that is crisp and cleanly molded. Planking is etched and has butt ends molded in an appropriate pattern. This is a beautifully crafted kit. The only quibble I have concerns the main battery gun barrels as these have an exaggerated flare at the muzzles. The parts are fine and delicate and will need care when being removed from their sprues. This is not a shake and bake kit. You will need to take your time to do this right. You will most certainly want to alter the construction sequence suggested in the directions to facilitate the painting of this ship.
This is a must buy for any IJN fan or fan of the ships that never were. This kit is a huge improvement over any previous Fujimi 1/700 kit I have ever seen.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
OK. Fair overall but bare superstructure and hull (need to drill portholes), bad light AA, and overscale masts, davits, main guns etc. Hull excellent. Lots of flash on sprues. Late war fit. (GH)
FAIR. This kit has some serious fit problems. Detail is reasonably good, though. Represents the ship in the 1950s, with early angle deck. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Kit materials claim ship fit to be 1939, prior to taking for Japanese Naval service in 1941. Also marketed as Argentina Maru.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit that includes a metal weight for the waterline plate, decals for striping, names and flags and a supplementary photo etch set for davits and ship’s boats supports. The light gray, slightly soft plastic is cleanly molded. There is no flash anywhere on the kit parts. Deck detail if fair to good with planking being provided by raised continuous lines. While somewhat reminiscent of the Aoshima passenger marus this kit is an improvement over them. While certainly not a state of the art kit it will build up into something decent. The quality of the molding and detail is a huge improvement over some of their previous kits like Hosho.
Kudos to Fujimi for their pursuit of passenger ships from the era, but, given the state of the art in injection molding these days also a bit of a disappointment.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. Identical kit to Tone. (GH)
see Kitty Hawk-class.
GOOD.
Hull lines are accurate, deck details are up to present standards. Secondary 5,9" guns are molded with turrets. One aircraft is included.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Presumably variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is equipped with fittings for the last year of the ship’s life before being sunk. Fujimi also has available Yamashiro in this scale which is in 1943 fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic model. Parts are provided in mostly dark gray plastic with additional parts in clear for aircraft and ship’s boats and black for the display stand. A sprue of poly caps is provided to aid in turret rotation. Additional parts provided for my early edition kit were brass main battery gun barrels and hundreds of 3D crew figures. Decals and a flag sheet were also included. No photo etch was included. It would appear that Fujimi has adopted the Hasegawa practice of issuing supplementary detail sets such as photo etch and real wood decking for the modeler looking for greater detail (and possessing a FAT wallet). The parts provided in the kit are so well done and the detail present is so fine that I believe that the vast majority of modelers of this kit will simply buy and be satisfied with a supplementary set of photo etch railings. If you have AMS (Advance Modeler Syndrome) you’ll never be happy with anything other than the full monte for this kit anyway but the rest of us should be just fine.
All parts are clean and crisply molded with no flash or misaligned joints. Surface detail is excellent. The ship’s two piece hull is nicely detailed with more subtle plating detail than the Hasegawa kits I have seen. I can’t say if the pattern is correct only the look and feel. The deck is cast in a single piece so there are no seams to join and fill. Deck detail is crisp with incised plank lines with butt ends. Most deck equipment is applied separately so painting the deck will be easier than usual. Weapons are well cast and contain good detail. This is a first rate kit that is a credit to the toolmaker’s art.
My only quibble with this kit revolves around waterlining. I don’t build full hull ships so I prefer options for a waterline model. This kit does not have them. There is no incised line on the inside of the two piece hull nor is there is a raised line for the boot topping on the outside. Taking a saw to this hull will be complicated by the bracing system Fujimi has employed. There are twelve bulkheads and two braces to be glued to the upper and lower hull areas for stiffening that will cause grief to the waterline crowd. I’m not saying it can’t be done, just that it won’t be easy.
Directions: large format black and white exploded line drawings in a multi-page booklet with most text in Japanese. Color call outs appear to be for Creos Aqueous and Mr Color paints. The drawings appear to be clear and unambiguous, you won’t need the text. Painting instructions are provided by a huge, poster sized color rendition of the model.
Packaging: Large, colorful but thin cardboard box into which all the parts have been dumped without any barriers or buffers. All parts are bagged so plastic rash is minimized. Excellent box top art is provided as well as photos on the sides of the completed model. All in all the exterior packaging is pleasing and makes you want to buy this kit (unlike the simply awful photos found on the exterior bottom of the recently released Zvezda Dreadnought).
I never thought I would see the day that a kit of Fuso or Yamashiro for that matter, would be released in a large scale but here it is. Not only do we have a kit in 1/350, we have one that is brilliantly executed, the only down side is price. These kits are selling in the same price range as domestic (US) resin kits.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2011. Portrays the ship in 1944. This kit, or close variants, has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Old molding reviewed. Excellent hull and reasonable superstructure detail. Certainly early 1939 fit (searchlight in front of bridge), but AA guns not included. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Presumably a variant of their Deutchland kit.
For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under 1/350 Kongo.
Note:Presumably identical to Kirishima No.5S4. (MMS).
FAIR. Late war fit. Rear superstructure is correct, but AA layout is wrong. Comments for Kongo apply. (GH)
Note:Presumably identical to Kirishima No.5S4. (MMS).
FAIR.
Very basic kit. Not much details. As it is said in instructions, detailing is up to builder. No aircraft included.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
FAIR. (based on in box review)
Note: there are several versions of this kit floating around out there as it has been reissued several times by Fujimi with different parts included in the box. This kit is one of the first issues, check carefully the one you buy as these remarks may not apply.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit (in the darkest gray plastic I’ve seen in a long time). The only other materials provided are a metal weight for the hull plate and a decal sheet for the aircraft. Given the rather recent vintage of this molding this kit is a disappointment. The hull is featureless without even portholes molded in (a line drawing is included so you can drill them yourself, oh goody!). The parts have a good bit of flash on them and are a mixture of nicely molded bits and blobs of plastic. The included aircraft are to be kind, indistinct. The whole kit just seems clumsy and a throwback to the 1970s.
The directions are decent enough being a combination of English and Japanese instructions and fairly clear line drawings. Painting instructions are also included. The canned history provided in the directions doesn’t make clear what the fit of the model is but the downward curved flight deck and island indicate the early fit.
Most modelers of IJN subjects will want a Hosho because of its unique status as the first purpose built aircraft carrier to be completed in the world, but, they probably don’t want this one. Later editions may be better. You can make a decent model out of this but it will be a major project.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
Editor's Note: I believe that Bill built 43084, which portrays the ship in 1922. I think that Alex built 43083, which is related.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2009.
FAIR. Modified Nagara class, conversion to AA cruiser, with twin 5" guns. Same applies as to Nagara. I would say Fujimi simply added a few extra parts to Nagara or Natori kit to make this modification. Compare Tamiya issue. (GH)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit contains parts to build three different IJN tankers: Itsukushima, Kyuuei and Kenyou Maru. Fujimi has a number of different auxiliaries such as this tanker kit on the market. They share parts among them.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit with a metal weight for the waterline plate, decals for names and flags and a good sized photo etch fret for windows, davits, platform supports and railings. Parts are clean and crisp with no flash. Surface detail is good. Hull has a somewhat exaggerated plating detail molded in but it’s livable. Deck detail is good with planking simulated by raised continuous lines (no butt ends) in the appropriate places. Masts, booms and king posts are finely molded and very delicate. Vents are a little chunky but usable. The only real problem I see is for the non-Japanese speaker trying to clarify the instructions. There are no assembly instructions for the ship variants in English. You will have to match up the Japanese characters to the ship names on the front of the instructions to make the variants correctly. Same goes for the painting instructions. I haven’t built any of these tanker types from Fujimi but this kit appears to be better than similar items from Skywave that I have built.
Kudos to Fujimi for producing kits of tankers. Previously these subjects could only be found in resin kits. For the modeler who wants to give his IJN fleet legs to go beyond home waters this kit is a necessity.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
OK - bordering on FAIR (based on in-box inspection) Two-piece hull - split along waterline - typical of same (or similar) scale Nichimo, Bachman and Bandai kits. Motorized, with two (highly inaccurate) skeg-like sheaths for prop shafts, no option to convert to static model (although skegs easily removed and holes filled). Torpedo bulge too low, does not blend properly into armor belt on upper hull piece; bilge keels absent. Upper hull better; armor belt 25% too high but includes vent pipes, deeply indented "Nichimo-type" portholes above. Molded-on railings detract, deck planking coarse (~1.75 scale feet wide) and defined by raised lines (not scribed groves), however relief crisp - a la Revell 1/480 Arizona, only more so. Planking carried all the way forward and astern and deck fittings ample and convincing; continued on next overlying (01 level?) deck/superstructure piece, joining at fairly inconspicuous seams abaft A-turret (though difficult to fill completely). Lacking any depiction(s) of non-skid (usually diamond-star) pattern on deck- and platform surfaces. Ovelying deck/superstructure pieces all with workable-looking locator pins, guides, etc.. Superstructure detail spartan but includes molded windows indented with minimum acceptable relief. Lattice supports molded, totally inadequate. Masts good, but funnel-caps gratings practically "drawn-on"; only very lightest of relief. Ship's boats rather lacking in detail/textures - but no sinkmarks in my examples. Fourteen-inch turrets well-defined but with minimal detail - director "ears" bordering on offensive; gun barrels slightly clumsy, joined to elevate together, a la Revell kits. Six-inch casemate guns nicely tapered, prominent horizontal seams run clear around casemates, need removal. Open-mount 5" AA guns very basic, breaches desperately need detail (particularly at this scale), as do twin- and triple-25mm mounts, if slightly less so. Two single-float seaplanes with nice shapes, cockpits if totally devoid of detail or panel lines. Instructions confused regarding floatplanes; a/c painting guide depicts "Pete" but twin-float planes on ship drawing. Actual parts depict biplane with wings like "Pete", but sqaured-off cowl and tail unlike "Pete". (Easily modified to "Pete", if incorrect.) Catapult and crane again with insufficient relief depicting latticework. Overall, kit desperately needs PE (Gold Medal Models makes some useful sets) for all lattices, funnel cap gratings - even bridge windows - as well as detailing, particularly on all guns. Unless waterlined, major correction of torpedo bulge/ armor belt also needed. With work put in, will make a great companion to your Hasegawa 1/450 Akagi - and more than worthy for their Yamato or Shinano. (MMS).
FAIR/GOOD. Hull is good - one-piece with part of superstructure molded in which is not detailed. Other superstructure also undetailed. Light AA guns acceptable, but wrong type for ship. Heavy AA guns' barrels replace, but main guns are good. Masts must be scratch-built and coamings replaced by thinner plasticard. NOTE: This kit is similar to the late-war Kongo kit. The box art depicts Kirishima, but the kit doesn't. Proper references needed to make up parts required for Kirishima. Rear superstructure is correct for Kirishima though. (GH)
GOOD. But one of the most complicated aircraft carrier models I've wrestled with. It seems like everything that could have been made a separate part was (granted, to allow them to offer different kits representing different configurations over the years). There's a basic hangar deck, but it's a bit flimsy and keeps wanting to break its glue bond with the hull. Some shimming will be needed to keep the hull sponsons against the hull sides. The flight deck has detail molded in, but the scribe lines for the catapults and other details are big trenches. Fill them in and start over.
That said, Fujimi pretty much nailed the basics of the Kitty Hawk and Constellation, unlike Italeri's stab at the same subject. The basics are correct, and a good modeler can add enough detail to really make this model shine. Like the Italeri kit of the USS America, it's a neat kit that nails the basics and, with a little time, it can really look great. You just need patience to build this model, though. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Note: Released as
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2008.
This kit, or close relatives, has been released as:
Note: Presumably identical to Kirishima No.5S4. (MMS).
Editor's Notes: Released as:
FAIR.
Kongo in late-war guise, lots of AA guns. Some nasty mold marks to remove, and coamings too thick. Masts ok, since only one thick tripod. May be accurate for some period, but light AA doesn't agree with my Model Art references. The twin 25mm should still be present and layout of triple 25mm is probably wrong. The 6" casemates left open should be filled. (GH)
FAIR.
Inferior to and way cheaper than Hasegawa kit. Molding is less sharp. Deck details are slightly different, too. There are plenty of aftermarket products available for this kit.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Pre War fit (8" turrets)
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, also see
OK/FAIR. Also released in a special "Kai-Matsu" edition (kit 40) with Cartograf decals covering 14 ships and as the Sakura (kit 45). The kit actually represents a unit of the second group of Matsus, the so-called Tachibana group, which were distinguishable by a slightly modified foremast and squared transom sterns. The real Matsu and Sakura were of the first group of 18 ships with rounded sterns, so the kit represents neither ship accurately. In any case, it does correctly represent any of the 14 Tachibanas.
This model is typical of 1970s Fujimi Waterline Series releases with basically accurate shapes but fairly poor fit and crude details. It includes a waterslide decal with shaded Japanese Katakana characters MA-TSU ("Pine") for the hull sides and of course that silly metal weight for the hull. It is uninspiring, but it was a reasonable effort for the time when it was released. With some extra work and new small parts it could be built into a good model, but there are now better alternatives available. If you want a 1/700 scale Matsu, a great choice would be the excellent Tamiya Matsu/Sakura kits, which correctly depict ships of the the first group. For a Tachibana variant, Skywave's Tachibana/Hatsuzakura kits are outstanding.
(TR) Review dated 13 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
See Iowa Class
Note: Art advertising kit (5S8-800) depicts Yamato, late-war fit. (MMS)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as commissioned. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as she appeared at the Battle of Leyte Gulf. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. With this new molding released in 2005, modelers have been blessed with not one but two excellent choices for building a 1/700 scale Myoko. Like the 2001 Hasegawa remold, this kit is superior in all respects to Hasegawa's 1970s model, which had long been the only option. Fujimi's Myoko is very comparable with the 2001 Hasegawa kit, approximately equivalent in quality. Like the old model this one has a one-piece hull/main deck, but this one has a base plate which fits inside on the underside of the hull so there is not any seam visible. This is easier to assemble than the more fiddly multi part Hasegawa approach, but the Fujimi hull suffered from some minor hogging while the more complex Hasegawa hull came out dead flat, so Hasegawa wins this round. Fujimi's hull/deck detailing is similar to Hasegawa, perhaps a tad better on the hull sides with a slightly sharper degaussing cable and some delightfully delicate weld seams. Bollards on the Fujimi kit are a little better too, but there is an error: on the forecastle deck the Fujimi continued the linoleum deck covering instead of having the correct nonslip surface. Another difference is the torpedo deck. Enclosed by the aircraft handling deck above, this deck is visible only through the torpedo launching aperatures on the hull sides. Hasegawa chose to depict this difficult to see space without the deck with the torpedo mounts attached to the overhead. This is adequate if the torpedoes are shown stowed, but if they are swung out for firing the empty space is visible. Fujimi's torpedoes mount to the deck as did the prototype, and they even provided reload torpedoes for the deck behind the mounts, so in this area the Fujimi kit is superior. The superstructures of both kits are built up in layers with excellent fit and attractive detail, although some of it is simplified on both. Molded in wind baffle detail is outstanding as are the various fire control directors, and bridge windows are well represented in sharply defined gray plastic.
Superstructure assblies of both kits are convincing. Funnels assemble identically, with Hasegawa showing better footrail detail on the sides while the Fujimi funnel caps are better detailed. Turrets of both kits are similar, about the same quality with the main rifles being in scale with well-rendered blast bags. Masts and platform supports of both kits are accurate but a bit thick, best replaced with wire, and the solid-molded lattice platforms and crane booms are only slightly improved over the old mold Myoko! Secondary armament, boats, anchors, planes, catapults, and other equipment for each are similarly high quality with little to choose between the two.
So which is the better 1/700 scale Myoko? Both have flaws but are essentially accurate, well engineered kits. Hasegawa's detail is a bit finer overall, but Fujimi's is a little more sharply defined. It is really just a matter of style. Minor flaws notwithstanding, both new Myokos are excellent kits which can be built into beautiful replicas.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
(Whew, MRC really makes that sticker a problem to remove!)
FAIR. Oversize masts and gun barrels, davits and AA barrels. Hull is very nice, but sprues have lots of flash. Early war fit with 13mm quad ahead of bridge. (GH)
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2010. For comparison, check out these kits:
POOR (based on in-box inspection) Like Nichimo BBs motorized, two-piece hull - split along waterline - but with two (inaccurate) outboard skegs for prop shafts and no static display conversion option. Also like Nichimo torpedo bulge inaccurate - especially forward - and top rounds out at waterline (should extend up to main deck). Upper hull also completely featureless, lacking even slightest trace of portholes. All decks mercifully free of molded-on railings, but main deck and overlying (01-level?) deck with molded single- and triple-25mm depictions, toy-like, offensive. Planking on first two decks compatible but coarse (looks like ~4 scale feet wide), defined by raised (not scribed) lines of weak relief, do not extend all the way forward. Next (01?) deck up joins upper hull piece abreast B-turret in very obvious seam, impossible to hide, difficult to fill. Even worse, piece entirely omits upper-tier casemate guns (!). Toy-like construction continued by pagoda construction left- and right halves, bridge windowframes in relief, uneven; awful. Kit lacks any depiction(s) of non-skid (usually diamond-star) surfacing on platforms, etc.. Lattice supports plates depicting framing with inadequate relief. Masts crude, heavy, molded black plastic as is funnel-cap, depicting grating with raised, inadequate relief. (Also odd display stand looking like 19th century railroad trestle). Ship's boats entirely absent(!) Definition of sixteen-inch turrets soft, lack all detail - except offensive triple-25mms molded onto upper-tier turrets. Gun barrels basic, not tapered and joined to elevate together, a la Revell kits. All rangefinders just bars and sticks. Casemate guns slightly heavy - at least somewhat tapered - with prominent horizontal seams and flash running fully around casemates in my example. Casemates do not rotate, without even locator pins/guides, rear casemates just half-barrels glued to bulkheads. Open-mount 5" AAs just plastic wedges with twin sticks protruding. Molded-on single- and triple-25mm mounts only depictions of lightest-AA, inaccurate and offensive. Pair of twin-float seaplanes ("Jakes"?) crude, toylike - fully as bad as Revell Missouri or Helena. Catapult depicts latticework with insufficient relief, crane just featureless stick. Overall kit only a base for scratchbuilding/replacement of all significant details, from hull- and deck surgery to completely rebuilding pagoda/bridges and replacing all light weapons and aircraft (can use castings from Nichimo 1/550 Yamato-class kit), and photo-etching absolutely required. (Although hard to find in this scale; recommend using 1/600 scale Yamato/IJN frets.) Waterlining would eliminate some hull surgery - but with all the other required work, would hardly make a difference. Still, enough work will produce a very rare IJN BB - which isn't a Yamato - in a scale near your 1/600 Aurora Enterprise CV-6 and cruiser Saint Paul, and even closer to your Revell 1/535 Iowa-class BB and Lindberg 1/520 Yorktown-II. (MMS)
FAIR. Lots of flash on moldings, light AA poor, but otherwise buildable. Replace masts and detail bridge. Mid war appearance, with 4 twin 25mm and 1 quad 13mm. I dig these IJN cruisers! (GH)
See Iowa Class
FAIR. Fujimi obviously did the minimal amount of effort creating this model, whose differences from the prototype are numerous and noticable. It is supposed to be the USS New Jersey, BB-62, at around the end of WW2. The most glaring is the hull: an external armor belt, randomly placed portholes, and the wrong shape - the hull should widest around turret 3. The separate foredeck forces you to sand away and recreate the wooden deck and some deck furniture. Many details in the shape of the superstructure are wrong, and are a mix of her appearance from late WW2 to Korea. The "Bearcats" are actually Japanese float planes that look nothing like their prototype, and the light weapons (everything under 16") need replacing with Skywave detail sets, which are also needed to replace the boats and davits, molded-in life rafts, inaccurate directors and many other details. The ladders, where included, are recessed _into_ the surfaces. The fit of the parts is fair to poor, requiring filing, filling and sanding. No decals are included except a flag. The paint description is accurate for the ship's overall appearance. One can only hope that Fujimi plans to upgrade this kit as part of the current spate of rereleases by Japanese model companies, since it is the only 1/700 Iowa on the market.
If you want to build a 1/700 WW2 or Korean War Iowa class, try to find the Revell 1/720 Missouri. While it has problems, and is out of production, the full/waterline hull and superstructure are correct. You'll still need the Skywave kits (order two E-6 sets, while they last), but at least she'll look like an Iowa. (JP)
GOOD. Very nice detail, although superstructure is bare and masts need replacing. Looks as though it is a retooled kit. Late war fit (GH)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
GOOD.
Hull lines and flight deck shape are more or less accurate. Details are very brief. No aircraft included.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
see Fujimi Matsu-Class.
Editor's Notes: Presumably a variant of their Lexington kit. (DRW)
Mid War fit (5" turrets)
Editor's Notes: Presumably a variant of their Deutchland kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Nice details. Comparable to Aoshima kit, both are inferior to Skywave. Stern shape needs correction.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2009. Portrays the ship in 1941.
This kit, or close variants, has been released as:
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
see Fujimi Perry-Class.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. Good overall detail, superstructure very bare of detail, and could use a Leviathan set. Masts need replacing, and hull detail should be more restrained. Otherwise good. Late war fit. (GH)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD.
Note: this is a late war fit for this vessel. Another class member, Okinoshima, is presumably in an earlier fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit with a tiny fret of supplementary photo etch parts. Aircraft and a catapult were included in the kit but no decals for marking them were. This makes sense as the version of the ship being built wasn’t equipped with them. The bits of PE included are supports for twin racks spanning the width of the ship. The directions don’t give you the slightest hint what these nicely etched racks are for. The plastic parts are cleanly molded with little to no flash. Some of the parts are a bit inconveniently located for removal from the sprues and will require care in so doing. Otherwise, this is a typical new release from Fujimi. This is not my first rodeo with Fujimi kits and I have to say that some nasty prior habits have continued like multiple sink holes in the brittle plastic used and almost unfixable ejector pin marks on the superstructure decks. The sinkholes are also pretty inconveniently located in critical deck areas as well. The parts do go together better than I expected with little to no putty required on the seams. The exception being the waterline plate fit to the hull which is atrocious.
All in all this kit runs a distant third to the more recent releases from Tamiya and Aoshima. This is, however, the only game in town so if you want an IJN minelayer Fujimi is it.
(WJS), review dated 23 September 2011.
see Fujimi Perry-Class.
see Fujimi Perry-Class.
see Fujimi Burke-Class.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943. See Bill Swan's review under Fuso-class.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2010. For comparison, check out these kits:
Note: Art advertising kit (5S7-800) depicts Musashi, in fit as of loss at Leyte. (MMS)
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as commissioned. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to portray the ship as she appeared at the Battle of Leyte Gulf. (DRW)
GOOD.
Note that this kit is not A-150 class, but essentially an upgunned Yamato with her late-war AA battery (port and starboard 6" turrets removed, fore and aft 6" turrets kept intact). Although detailing is comparable to Tamiya kit, there are minor fit problems. Hull seems to be same as that of all Yamato-class Fujimi kits, with separate installation of superstructure for late-war configuration (more AA guns), which is another difference from Tamiya Yamato kit. Particular feature of this kit is sprue with three dual 20" turrets for proposed upgunning envisaged by IJN battleship development plan. There are plenty of aftermarket products available which could be used with this kit. Conversion to A-150 using 100 mm DP turrets from Pit-Road E-02 set is also possible.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
VERY GOOD. This rare Imperial Japanese Army (yes, Army!) transport submarine is an unusual choice for Fujimi's first foray into 1/350 scale, but they have done a nice job with it. The kit is identical to the similar YU-1001 class sub (kit No.15) with conning towers and different propellers for both types included. The kit includes a separate bonus sprue with a tiny 2 1/4 inch long full hull 1/700 YU-1 sub model (also with alternate YU-1001 parts). Despite its diminutive 4 1/2 inch length, the 1/350 model has a number of fun features including a rudimentary interior and optional clear plastic hull parts to show it off. For a more conventional build the model offers the option to leave off the rectangular cargo compartment covers on the deck, revealing the round hatches on the casing below, which in turn can be left open for a view of the interior cargo bays. Pretty cool. Another plus is a small photoetched steel fret with deck safety rails, dive plane guard rails, ladders, helm, and a few interior details. A decal sheet with Japanese national markings for the conning towers for both models is also provided. Surface detailing is good, with sharply defined drainage vents, deck hardware, and discreet raised planking on the deck. Small parts are mixed: the binnacle, periscope, and helm provided for the open conning tower on the 1/350 sub are excellent, and the dive planes, rudder, and four-bladed propeller are convincingly shaped (if just a bit thick). The 37mm deck gun, however, is simplified. Parts fit together smoothly and both models assemble quickly into attractive, nicely detailed little submarines.
Good as these kits are, though, Fujimi didn't get everything exactly right. Despite the very limited information available on these obscure craft, I was able to find some clear photos of a captured example on Navsource online. These reveal that while the shapes of the drainage vents on the model are correct, there aren't enough of them (at least compared to photos of YU-3, but I suppose there could have been variations within the class). They also show that the kit ballast tanks and deck edges fore and aft are too squared off, deck hardware is not altogether accurate, and the bow anchor and small cargo handling derricks (both depicted on the box art) are missing. Still, these are minor discrepancies. Overall outlines and dimensions match available information very well, and the completed subs look right. Besides, where else are you gonna find Japanese Army submarines for your collection?!
(TR) Review dated April 2008.
FAIR. This kit is identical to Fujimi's similar YU-1 model (kit No.14) with different conning tower and propeller parts for Yu-1001 and YU-1 on the same sprue. Unfortunately, Fujimi also chose to use the same hull as their YU-1 kit, which is incorrect for YU-1001. Although very similar in appearance to the YU-1s, the YU-1001 boats were actually an improved class with hulls a full eight meters longer than the earlier YU-1s. This makes Fujimi's 1/350 scale sub about 2 centimeters too short - quite noticeable on a model less than 12 centimeters in length! This could be corrected by slicing the hull and inserting a section cut from the extra clear hull included in the kit, but it would be a lot of work to fix a basic error Fujimi should not have made in the first place. A 1/700 scale YU-1001 model is also included with the kit, but the same mistake is repeated and it too is nearly 17 percent short in length. Too bad, since in all other respects these models are both quite good
(TR) Review dated April 2008.
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2011. Portrays the ship in 1944. Presumably, this is a close relative of Fujimi's 1/350 Shokaku kit (kit 60004).
GOOD.
Presumably the same kit as Shokaku. Correct shape, nice details. Comparable to Tamiya kit. Includes one sprue of clear plastic early war IJN aircraft. There are plenty of aftermarket products available for this kit.
(AS), Review dated 8 April 2010.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Their address is:
Glencoe Models
Box 846
Northboro, MA 01532
| Chinese Junk | Constitution/Thebaud | Corsair II | Eagle-class Patrol Boat | France | Norway | |
| Oregon | Savannah | Southern Belle | US Coast Guard Rescue Boat | United States | Viking Ship |
Editor's Note: Bagged kit. Probably a reissue of the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably a reissue of the old Pyro Constituion and Pyro Gertrude L. Thebaud kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 2006 Re-issue of the old ITC kit. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD. This was Cornelius Vanderbilt's yacht, built in 1892 and transferred to the USN as the gunboat USS Gloucester. I recently bought this kit and it showed up at my door yesterday.
The scale is listed as 1/130 and appears correct although I have not measured it. The kit box has some excellent photos: two large, detailed, high-quality images of the original ship as well as two of the Gloucester. The hull is about 19 inches long and is molded in black styrene; the other parts in cream-colored styrene. Kit parts have some flash problems but nothing that a little cleanup won't fix. A least one of the masts is warped and would need to be replaced with dowel, which I was going to do anyway. Instructions are marginal and rigging instructions virtually non-existent; there are a number of what I presume are rigging blocks but the molded detail is so crude it's hard to tell. These would definitely need to be replaced.
I would rate this kit as good to fair. It's an interesting subject that should go together easily and would lend itself to superdetailing. I am very tempted to model the Gloucester, although other than the box photos there is no information or parts included to do this. The major work involved would entail removing the foremast entirely, scratchbuilding a mainmast aft of the funnel, reworking the deckhouses and adding some guns (one quick-firing 6lbr and four 4lbrs, according to the kit. (RA) Review dated 26 January 2006
This has also been released by a company called "Kleeware". (Ed.)
_Not_ an Eagle class boat, but a WWI 110' subchaser. (Brooks)
GOOD. This is an ex-ITC mold, initially released in the 1950's or 1960's, and intended for battery powered operation. There are supports for the battery box and inner workings inside of the hull. The model's length is 18", with a maximum beam of 2-1/2". Based on the prototype's length of 110 feet, the model's scale works out to be around 1/73, and the beam is about 15 feet, 3 inches. Reference material on this prototype is scarce, so from an eyeball's perspective, it looks OK. The hull has raised panel lines representing the wood construction, and the ships's designation "A-V, SC96" is also raised. The instruction sheet explains that these were supposed to be plywood, but that's questionable. The hull also has the railing posts molded in, but at about a quarter inch long, they have a tendency to break off. They're best replaced with Evergreen stock. There is no railing, so the builder can use thread, or as I did, Evergreen strip stock.
My model had a slightly warped hull, so I glued the hull halves at the keel first, and when that was good and dry, I glued the rest of the hull together. Once the deck is added, it becomes a strong, true assembly. The moldings do show their age, as there was a fair amount of flash to clean up. But it wasn't too difficult. The stern transom had some dimples, which were filled and sanded smooth. The deckhouses, pilothouse and other deck details were easy to assemble, but the seams needed filling and sanding to be perfectly smooth. Some of the placement holes in the deck and deckhouses are a little too big for the parts, such as the vents and flagpoles. A small drop of CA makes them smaller so the parts fit snugly. The instruction sheet is good, but can be a little crowded in some areas. The parts are numbered, and the instructions also have a silhouette of the part trees with the parts mapped. Some of the parts are cast very well, while others are clumsy. The anchors are very nice, as are the vents, hatches, "Y" gun, masts and flagpoles. But the navigation lights, weathervane, "K" gun and crow's nest cross section are a little oversized. The props are very flashy and not very accurate. And the ship's boat had a thick cross section, scaling out to around 1 foot.
Overall it builds into a nice piece, with a minimum of effort. I built mine essentially right out of the box. I added aftermarket props, drilled out the gun barrel, covered the ship's boat with tissue soaked in white glue to represent a canvas cover, and fully rigged the masts. There is a nameplate included which reads "US SUBMARINE CHASER, 110 FEET, WORLD WAR I" as well as a stand, which is nice for the final display. (RD)
out of production, 2000.
OK. Some details are a little clumsy, the windows in the deckhouses look too big, and the greenhouse over the swimming pool is molded into the deck, causing a headache. I also have reservations about the machinery below the waterline. Find a few photo sources, though, and the ship builds up nicely with little fuss. (JMP)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the old ITC kit. (DRW)
Presumably, a modification of the SS France kit.
GOOD. Ex-ITC mold. First issued by Glencoe in 1989, (DRW)
GOOD. This kit builds the ship as she appeared during the Spanish-American War of 1898. Same kit can build the other two ships of Indiana class, USS Indiana and USS Massachucetts.
The parts are molded of a heavier plastic than usually encountered, but is easy to work with. Model benefits greatly from use of PE and additional small details.
This model can also be used as a basis for modernized version used in WWI.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
OK. Builds well, but the shapes are wrong in many areas, and the details clunky. The superstructure is noticably wrong, and would have to be entirely reshaped. It's close to the original profile, but the Lifelike version might be better. (Mine was converted into a nuclear fast fleet oiler, USS Hudson City, AOEN-5, to salvage it.) (JP)
OK. Old ITC kit. Superstructure shapes are way off. Hull is a bit too narrow; the main deck sits too low at the bow; the bow profile is a bit too curved and too short. The skeg is really small, the shaft housing is much too big, and the screw is way off. The hull can be fixed (and with a lot less trouble than it takes to scratchbuild the ship's gorgeous, yet maddening, hull shape from scratch), but toss out everything (and I mean everything) above main deck level. If you are into big scales or are an absolute fanatic about this ship, then this kit may be worth salvaging; however, if you're only after a model of the Savannah, try to find the smaller but much better Revell kit instead.(JMP)
Editor's Note: Bagged kit. Probably a reissue of the old Lindberg kit. (DRW)
GOOD. This old ITC kit was re-released by Glencoe in 1989 and is still in production as of 2007. It depicts a "36 footer" self-righting motor life boat as used by the US Coast Guard between 1929 and 1987. Consisting of 50 white polystyrene parts, the kit builds up easily into a basically accurate cutter. As appropriate to these simple boats surface detail is minimal, although "U.S.Coast Guard" and "36319" embossed on the hull and forecastle need to be scraped off and replaced with appropriate markings. There are no decals included, so you will have to scrounge your own. As typical in kits of the 1960s, the smaller parts such as anchor, lifering, helm, stanchions, and bell are accurate but could be a little sharper; superdetailers will probably want to replace them. Nice extras are three crew figures and an interesting base which is a sort of plastic wave which supports the boat and nameplate. Not a bad kit overall, especially considering its age.
(TR) Review dated 21 March 2007.
out of production, 2000.
FAIR. (based on observation of test shot) Reported to be inaccurate below the waterline, and the solid plastic railings are no big help, but otherwise good. (DRW)
POOR. Old ITC kit. It looks like the United States after being squashed from end to end in a car crusher; the length is OK for 1/400, but the height and beam are correct for 1/350. Deckhouses are woefully incorrect, and forget about anything below the waterline. I've had to make too many modifications on mine just to get it to square up with my plans. Recommended only as a toy or a nostalgia piece. (JMP)
Editor's Note:Probably a re-issue of the old ITC kit. Measures about 3.5 inches long. Issued by Glencoe circa 1994. Said to have 14 parts. (DRW)
(TR) March 2009
Editor's Notes: This kit has been re-issued as:
Editor's Note: Said to be 4.5" long. Possibly 1/500 scale
At last word, Blue Ridge Models had their molds.
EXCELLENT. An accurate and complete kit of a historically important ship, both beginners and more advanced builders will like this kit. Highly recommended. (RM) Editor's Note: Apparently, this is the same as the BWN kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has apparently been re-issued by numerous manufacturers:
ex-BWN kit.
Portrays the ship in 1944
ex-BWN kit.
w/ USS San Fran. parts
Portrays the ship in 1944
GOOD. This kit depicts a late Type VIIc boat as it might have appeared in 1944-45 with two-tier Wintergarten conning tower and main deck-mounted Schnorkel. The model is cast with the hull and conning tower as a single piece in tan resin with a separate resin Schnorkel. Rudders, dive planes, rails, and weapons are included in photoetch brass, and a length of wire is provided for the propeller shafts and periscopes. The single-piece resin hull/conning tower part is beautifully done with accurate shapes and lots of delicate, attractive detail. I especially liked the depiction of the intricate grating, rescue buoys and other details on the main decks. Flooding vent slots on the hull sides are correctly shaped and consistent, although the configurations (4-3-16 X 2-0 starboard, 4-3-15 X 2-1 to port) suggest that the kit is not intended to depict any individual boat… in fact, no Type VIIc actually carried that particular configuration. There are numerous other inaccuracies, but fortunately most of them are fairly minor:
(TR) review dated 18 November 2009.
w/IJN Midget sub
GOOD+ Needless to say I liked this kit. It provides good value for the asking price ($142 in the last Gulfstream sale flyer) and builds up into a very attractive and eye-catching display piece. Highly recommended. (RM)
VERY GOOD.
Note: this kit now appears in the Yankee Modelworks catalog as the Wickes Class Destroyer/USS Ward YMW# 35005. The YMW web site indicates new tooling for the PE and the addition or substitution of cast metal parts. The kits both include the Japanese midget submarine sunk at Pearl Harbor.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with a fret of photo etch detail parts included. The model is a full hull with no option for waterlining other than sawing off the bottom. The hull is cast with most of the superstructure including the funnels and was done extremely well. There are no bubbles, pinholes, miscasts or malformations on any of the parts in this kit. There is some very minor flash, but that is about all. The only difficulty I see with the parts the way they are cast is freeing the main battery guns from their casting plug. That will require a delicate hand. The detail on the small resin parts is excellent. The ship comes with cast resin masts but I would suggest using them as templates for brass rods or tubes to give strength for rigging which in this scale is a must. The photo etch is very well done and complete.
Directions:: heavily text oriented (in English) with reference to drawings of the completed ship, in segments corresponding to the text. That may not be enough for a beginning modeler.
Packaging: nicely decorated box with a photo of the finished model on the top but a bit thin, like one of the Italeri boxes that open from the sides. Well packed in foam peanuts though.
(WJS), review dated 19 March 2008.
GOOD: A nicely detailed kit with a few problems. This kit has also been marketed under the Entex and Revell name brands at times, and this latest specimen is the same kit only in a flashy new box. The hull is a two piece deal and has the usual errors in window placement. As with so many other liner models, this one seems to use a "mirror image" placement of windows making both sides nearly identical while the real ship was not. There are two areas that problematic, unlike the Minicraft Titanic, all the railings are molded into the ship and some deal of work must be used to remove them which is recommended if you want a really fine looking model. The second are is less of a problem and involves the fit of decks in the stern area. Overall this is a nicely detailed kit, though I question the money they get for this kit, especially when one considers that this kit and what is now the Minicraft Titanic were both molded by Entex and at one time were within a couple of dollars of each other. (HS)
GOOD. It's a pretty good kit. IIRC, it represents the ship as she appeared in the late 1970s, with the first group of apartments built on her upper levels. To convert her to her appearance after her 1980s "refit" is quite a chore (ask me how I know) but for a sort of "first generation" QE2 you can build a beautiful model from this kit. The only thing I didn't really like was the funky scale -- nothing else in my collection was really 1:450 scale!
Buy it and have fun with it. You won't be disappointed. (JMP)
Editor's Note: I wonder if this is the old Otaki kit..... (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under Kangnam Enterprise.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in the 1980s.
OK. This seems to be a modification of the Hasegawa kit. The deck, superstructure, guns, other details, and even the box art, seem to be taken from the the Hasegawa kit. The hull was made taller (and thus inaccurate) to allow more room for electric motors and other associated radio control equipment. Hawsepipes are awful.
Like the Hasegawa original, there is very little detail, and the aft superstructure is wrong. This and the Hasegawa original are the only Vanguard kits available. Given the choice, take the Hasegawa, if only for the better hull. Hap Dong's version does not appear to be as carefully produced either. (DRW)
Another major Japanese manufacturer of injection molded kits. In addition to the usual 1/700 Waterline kits, Hasegawa also still occasionally re-issues some of its old 1/450 full hull models.
Hasegawa has also apparently been acquired by Hobbico.
Check out their web page.
The primary site is in Japanese; there is a Global Site in English.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942/43.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit depicts the Agano in early war fit. If you are looking for a late war (1945) IJN light cruiser you will want to buy the Hasegawa #40026, Yahagi which is offered in the Operation Ten Ichi-Go configuration.
Kit Parts: this is an injection molded plastic model in dark gray plastic with clear plastic sprues for bridge windows, poly caps to rotate the turrets, decals, flag sheets, anchor chains and in my early edition kit a large poster of the excellent box art. No photo etch is included with this kit. Hasegawa offers two supplementary sets of photo etched brass to further detail this kit at considerable extra cost. There is no reason to run on about the kit parts: simply put they are superb. There is no flash, unaligned or mismatched parts. Everything is crisp and highly detailed. You really can’t find anything better than this. There are 407 parts, including alternates. The only quibbles that I have with the kit are that not only is there no provision for making this into a waterline model but that the method of hull construction makes it really difficult to waterline this kit. However, with all those internal hull bracings it will be one sturdy full hull model.
The kits parts are so well designed and made that the vast majority of modelers will only want to add photo etch railings. This is not a kit that requires that you spent a mint on fixing or upgrading the included parts. It can easily stand by itself as a brilliant piece of craft by Hasegawa.
Directions: Outstanding, clear, CAD type drawings that make every step unambiguous. Colors are called out during each step for the ship and the included scout planes. Nuff, said.
Packaging: Sturdy, colorful box with great artwork and photos. Parts are bagged except for the hull halves which are braced in a separate cardboard frame. You won’t find any plastic rash from parts sloshing around in the box with this kit.
While I would not recommend this kit as a first model anyone who has done one or two plastic kits will have no trouble with this one other than mastering the sheer complexity of the model.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
GOOD A step up from the Shinano. Much nicer detail. Screws in the flight deck are well hidden. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. Akagi is without doubt the best of Hasegawa's 1/450 series ships. The kit consists of 323 parts including a one piece full-hull and 22 aircraft, with decals for the flight deck and the planes. It depicts the ship as she appeared during the Pacific War.
Despite being designed as a runner (often issued with a motor), it makes a very nice static model too. I have heard criticisms of the underwater hull shape, but I don't know if these are on target or not. Those torpedo bulges do seem prominent, but the plans I consulted (Miyukikai, Wiswesser, and AJ Press) don't completely agree with each other or with Hasegawa....so who knows? There other detail discrepancies, but since the Japanese destroyed almost all documentation on the ship at the end of the war there seems to be no definitive reference for Akagi. Anyway, the kit hull looks convincing.
Parts fit is reasonable, but the heavy mold seams and abundant flash reflect its 1970s origin. The flight deck attaches to the hull with screws, but these and the on/off switch are concealed beneath the elevators. Other concessions to operation are an optional centerline rudder, a propshaft emerging from the sked, and extra thick AA galleries. The worst is the gallery supports, which are molded integrally with the hull sides. Yuck.
Weapons are ok, but they could be better. The two-part 25mm twin mounts are a bit overscale (and for a Battle of Midway Akagi they should have shields). The 120mm (4.7 inch) guns were also oversized, and the hull mounted 200mm (8 inch) guns were not only too thick but misaligned to boot. The guns were useable, but I replaced them all with modified parts taken from a derelict Tamiya 1/350 Yamato.
Nitpicks aside, this kit has a lot of plusses. Raised and recessed surface detailing throughout is excellent. Horizontal surfaces have minute raised lines for planked areas and outstanding nonslip textures for steel decks. Vertical surfaces are satisfyingly busy with well rendered w/t doors, handgrabs, ladders, vent gratings, portholes and other details. There are even tiny hiragana characters A-KA-GI delicately embossed on both sides of the stern! The small but prominent island structure is first rate. I was especially impressed with the antishrapnel "hammocks" to attach around the bridge windows, a feature common on Imperial Navy warships that I haven't seen in any other kit. Very cool. The ships boats, although molded as solid pieces, are pretty good too. Aircraft have solid molded canopies and raised panel lines, but the separate props, landing gear (Vals and Kates), drop tanks (Zeroes) and torpedoes (Kates) make them stand out. I just wish there were more of them!
All in all, Hasegawa's big Akagi is a very good kit. The odd scale can make extra detailing a challenge, but the basics are there for an impressive build.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
FAIR/GOOD. Nice hull minus portholes though. Masts too thick, and some flash on parts. Coamings are nice and thin. Mid-war appearance with extra AA guns before bridge and around funnels. (GH)
Editor's Note: See Yugumo-class.
FAIR. As South Dakota. Ship as in 1944. Ignore painting instructions. (GH)
FAIR. Overall detail is fair, plus Leviathan armament and boat sprue added. However, masts need replacement. The basic kit is afterall 1960's vintage. Hull looks like it was retooled, very nice indeed. (GH)
GOOD. The model was clean with little flash, and the only parts I had trouble with were the turrets and torpedo launchers - the pins are too large. Much detail, though the bridge has blank vertical walls. My version came with Japanese instructions, so painting was based guesswork. Simplistic assembly drawing left location on some parts vague. The only photo I have seems to agree with the model. Skywave, photo-etch, a little scratchwork and some references would make this an excellent model. (JP)
Editor's Note: See notes under Atago-class.
Editor's Notes: Released as:
Presumably the same kit as the Tirpitz.
See Kongo-class.
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: New Mold, 2010.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: The kit does not make a specific claim as to fit. It would appear to be as built so you may want to check references for equipment and weaponry if you want to build it as sunk.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit. With the exception of some clear parts for aircraft canopies all parts are molded in medium gray styrene. Decal sheets are included for both ship markings and aircraft. They appear to be well rendered but the US flag is not correct, being a 50 star and not a 48 star flag. The kit does not include any photo etch but does have metal chain for the anchors. Current practice for Hasegawa’s large scale ships is to offer supplementary photo etch part sets in two stages: basic and more detailed. They are quite pricy. You will need at least some photo etch to properly render the ship’s radar even if you don’t want to bother with railings and other detail features. Parts are included for pedestal style stands. The kit contains 458 pieces and comes with nine aircraft (six wildcats, three avengers). My early edition kit came with a large sized poster of the box top artwork and a nicely illustrated separate booklet detailing the history and movement of the namesake ship in English and Japanese.
Parts all appear to be clean of flash, crisply molded and have excellent surface detail. Quite simply this is a first rate, state of the art model. Plating simulation on the hull may seem a bit overdone to some but it doesn’t really bother me. Molded in detail on the flight deck is really first rate. The flight deck being in two pieces with a butt joint concerns me a little but with the joint running in the same direction as the planking less so than it would with a battleship or cruiser’s planking running perpendicular. My only quibble with this kit revolves around waterlining. I don’t build full hull ships so I prefer options for a waterline model. This kit does not have them. There is no incised line on the inside of the two piece hull but there is a raised line for the boot topping on the outside. However, taking a saw to this hull will be complicated by the bracing system Hasegawa has employed. There are five bulkheads to be glued to the upper and lower hull areas for stiffening that will cause grief to the waterline crowd. I’m not saying it can’t be done, just that it won’t be easy.
Directions: well planned, clear, step by step exploded line drawings with paint call outs (for Creos and Mr. Color paints) in each step. This is a first rate set of directions that will be easy to follow. The directions also include a page of masking patterns for the suggested camouflage scheme. Before using them check with your sources for accuracy in your chosen time period.
Packaging: Sturdy, colorful, oversized box with great artwork and photos. Parts are bagged except for the hull halves which are braced in a separate cardboard frame. Unlike my Agano kit (Hasegawa #40076) the cardboard frame did not work well. Both hull halves separated from their sprues and crashed around in the box. No damage was done but you can probably expect the same in your kit.
While I would not recommend this kit as a first model anyone who has done one or two plastic kits will have no trouble with this one. If you choose the disruptive camouflage scheme that will be the most difficult part of completing this kit.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
See Kongo-class
See Essex-class
Editor's Note: See Yugumo-class.
See Kongo-class
New mould in 2002.
Editor's Notes: New mold 2017.
FAIR/GOOD. Reissue of the I-370/I-68 kit with different box art, instructions, decals, and no Kaiten. Instead of Kaiten I-361 comes with a deck gun forward and two single 25mm guns for the aft deck. The instructions indicate that the deck extensions for the Kaiten (from the I-370 mold) should be removed for I-361. The I-171 is identical to I-68.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
FAIR/GOOD. First issued in the early 1970s, the kit contains two subs. The detailing is not as fine as their later U-Boats set, but Hasegawa's Japanese subs aren't bad. Quality is somewhere between the outstanding Tamiya I-16/I-58 subs and the not-so-terriffic Fujimi I-15/I-46 which were released about the same time.
I-370 is a credible rendition of a chubby little D1 class transport sub. Surface detail is good, with sharp recessed flooding vents and delicately raised decking. The periscopes and other smaller parts are a bit heavy, and the open tower sides could use some thinning. A cool feature is the 5 Kaiten human torpedoes to mount on the decks. The one inch long Kaitens are very nicely molded, even having tiny periscopes!
I-68 is comparable to I-370, but with one problem: the conning tower aft of the periscopes should be open on top rather than solid as the kit shows. For some reason Hasegawa also made this area slightly humpbacked rather than the correct flat profile (grrrrrrr!). Overall not bad, though, and with a little correction it can be built to represent any of the 17 boats of the KD6/KD7 classes.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
New mould in 2002.
See Kongo-class.
See Kongo-class.
FAIR More accurate than Fujimi Kongo class ships. Lattice masts and top mast section needs replacement. AA guns excellent as is hull but empty casemates need to be filled. Light AA differs in only one aspect from my references, this should be easy to fix. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
(In-box review) With the release of the new Hasegawa 1/350 Mikasa, I thought I'd run off a 'quick' 'in-box' review. I should also say, this is the fifth Mikasa I've got, including the Navwar wargaming piece, the JSC card kit (1/400 and blown-up to 1/250) and the Seals 1/700. Does that make it my favourite ship, or is it just the pre-dreadnought thang?
What I have is the initial production version with anniversary extras. The slip case has some photos of a well constructed model on the back, which makes a nice change from some manufacturers. The photos also show what appears to be a custom-sized display box, which may be the mysterious fourth bonus item noted on the side of the slipcase as a send-away for the Japan-only market (I can't read Japanese to tell). The other bonus items are: a 54mm model of Admiral Baron Togo, which has been previously available with a recent special edition of the Seals Mikasa; a print of Shotaro Tojo's 'Bridge of the Mikasa' painting, on which the Togo figure is based; and a silver or gold commemorative medal.
The box itself has another fine Koike Shigero painting which even shows some details not actually in the kit (e.g. the fold-down doors for the 6-inch casemates) and is just right for super-detailing reference. The big box itself is full, which is always good to see. There are fifteen sprues, eight of them in multiples for the smaller parts, in grey plastic in three separate bags. A fourth smaller bag contains a sheet of transfers for the base, a sheet of ensigns and standards on self-adhesive paper and, best of all, a length of fine chain for the anchor cables. What I think is missing though is a length of monofilament, or similar, for rigging (like Williams Bros. used to put in their aircraft kits). I don't doubt someone will be producing a photo-etch set for railings and companionway replacements before long. The mouldings are, as to be expected, crisp and with a great deal of detail in each piece. In my opinion, in some cases there is too much, of which more in a moment.
The main hull is complete, in two halves. I would have preferred a separate lower hull, as I was intending to do her as she is on display in Yokosuka (including blue-plastic tarpaulins, welding gear and air-conditioners, as when I visited her last September!), so waterlining will need careful use of a saw. The six-inch casemate doors are moulded open and are a little chunky in some cases, which is a pity. The hull strakes seem over-large too, but as I've yet to see a picture of Mikasa out of the water, I'm not really in a position to say. The boat stands could be replaced and, of course, the solid companionways. These are down to the limitations of the plastic moulding process, as likewise, is the overscale deck-planking, which, if done to accurate size, would probably not show up at all!
The instructions are straightforward and comprehensive, as well as actually showing where things go on the model. Other manufacturers take note. The instructions also advise painting each stage as you go, which may not be a bad idea, but, as they say 'flavour to taste'. I'm glad to say the sheets also have rigging instruction plans. Apart from that, she does look rather splendid, with plenty of scope for extra detailing. I'm not sure if I'll be drilling out all the portholes though!
I think this is Hasegawa's first exercise into the 'true big ship' scale, previous efforts for them being in 1/450. All praise too them, despite my, admittedly, minor criticisms. (CT), review dated 30 June 2005
Editor's Note: Apparently, this kit has also been issued as kit 40061, which apparently does not include the "anniversary extras" that Chris mentioned. The mold is apparently new as of 2005. According to the box on kit 40061, the kit has 430 parts. (DRW)
See Mutsuki-class
GOOD. Same kit as the Yamato. The instructions are different though, and they take the differences between the two ships into account. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Kit dated 1981. Produced by Hasegawa, distributed by Minicraft.
FAIR. Details nice, but lots of casting flash. Designed to be motorized, but driven shaft looks easy to remove. Three Curtiss SC-1 aircraft included. Same as the New Jersey kit? (SR)
FAIR. Old molding I review here. Hull and light AA very nice. Main guns need thinning, as do masts. Late war fit (GH)
OK/FAIR. This is the old molding dating back to the early 1970s. For the time this was not a bad kit, typical of Hasegawa's 1/700 Waterline Series ships of the era. The hull, superstructure and funnels are accurately shaped with some surface detailing. Bridge windows are solid, supposed to be represented with that unconvincing sticker often included in 1970s Waterline Series kts. Smaller details are equally uninspiring, though typical for the time. The main turret shapes are only generally correct, and the guns are for some reason enormously thick and tapered. Masts are also rather thick, and the foremast isn't all that accurate. Despite all this the built up model looks reasonably good. It served modelers as the basis for more detailed builds for many years before there were any alternatives.
Fortunately, this is no longer necessary. In 2001, Hasegawa issued a completely retooled Myoko (kit 43333) which renders the old kit obsolete; there is even a "High Grade" version (kit 43157) with a lower hull. In addition, Fujimi released a 1/700 Myoko in 2005 (kit 41006) which is also excellent. As for the old 1970s Myoko, it could still serve as an easy to assemble kit for beginners or perhaps as an experimental testbed, but time has definitely passed this one by.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. This is the new molding released in 2001. Completely different from Hasegawa's 1970s Myoko, this kit is superior to it in all respects. Unlike the old model which had a one-piece hull/deck, this Myoko hull is built up from right/left sides with a separate main deck and base plate. Three spacer fittings fit between the hull sides to keep things true. This style of construction is more complicated, but the fit is so good that it does not add much work to assembly. More importantly, it enabled the kit designers to cover the surfaces with delicate details that greatly enhance the overall effect of the model. It also assures that the completed waterline hull is dead flat. This is no small point, as I have built three of the old mold Hasegawa Myoko class cruisers over the years and every one had problems with either sagging or hogging of the single-piece hull. The superstructure is built up in layers with excellent fit and attractive detail, although some of it is simplified. The molded in wind baffle detail is outstanding as are the various fire control directors. Bridge windows are well represented in sharply defined gray plastic (rather than those awful clear parts which has become common in larger scales; when will manufacturers notice that the clear parts never look right in small scale?). Funnels and turrets assemble conventionally, with the main rifles being in scale with well-rendered blast bags. Unfortunately there is no representation of the heat shields that should be present on the main turrets. These can be found in aftermarket brass photoetch, but I would have liked at least an attempt at representing them in plastic. Masts and platform supports are accurate but a bit thick, best replaced with wire; the solid-molded lattice platforms and crane boom are only slightly improved over the old mold Myoko. An interesting feature of this kit is the use of a separate Leviathan Models sprue to provide secondary armament, boats, anchors, planes, catapults, and other equipment. The quality of these parts is very good, integrating well with the regular kit parts. Plus, in addition to the components actually used there are a good number of spares for the parts box, much appreciated!
Hasegawa has also issued the kit in a "High Grade" version (kit 43157) which is even better. This version includes a lower hull with white metal propellers and display base with a brass nameplate. It also has a small photoetch fret including rails, catapults, lattice platform supports, crane boom, funnel caps and other details which address some of the shortcomings of the basic kit... but even with those shortcomings, Hasegawa's new Myoko is an excellent effort which completely eclipses their 1970s rendition of the ship.
(TR), review dated 25 January 2010
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: According to Tim's review (above) this kit is the "new mold" Myoko with a lower hull, a display base with a brass nameplate, and a fret of photoetched brass details.
For comparison, check out these kits:
See Kongo-class
Editor's Note: Released circa November 2007. Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Leyte Gulf, in October 1944.
This has also been distributed as the Missouri.
FAIR. As Tenryu, but early fit without 25mm AA, different bridge and foremast. (GH)
FAIR. Nice hull and superstructure, torpedo tubes, but AA guns and masts are poor. Mid-war fit with 25mm AA guns added. A Nice kit. (GH)
FAIR. Hasegawa got the basic outlines of this little cruiser right, but the surface detailing and small parts are too heavy for my taste. The hull, superstructures and funnels are decent but none of the guns, masts, or other details are very good at all. It is comparable to the old Fujimi Sendai/Jintsu light cruiser kits, perhaps a tad better. The Tamiya Tama/Kuma/Kiso/Kinu/Nagara/Isuzu light cruisers are far superior. It is a solid basis for a Tenryu or Tatsuta build, but if you want a detailed replica you might want to sacrifice one of the Tamiya cruisers for small parts.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
See Essex-class for index.
FAIR. See Yorktown II. (GH)
POOR. (based on in-box review)
Features: This kit features thick, crude moldings, comes with a motor but neglects to give you the option of building the ship with three screws. The hull is one-piece, and it appears that all parts are designed for durability. In short, this is a toy, pure and simple, and no amount of hard work is going to make this into a model.
Hull and Superstructure: Although the major pieces do make this kit resemble the Tirpitz in many respects (from the instruction painting guide outline this is actually the Bismarck), the quality is poor. The hull is acceptable, but the deck is not - too thick raised planking detail, and overscale details.
The upper deck superstructure is incorrect around the area of the torpedo tubes... Um, yes, those. There are boats there instead. Boats are rectangular brick-like objects with ditches in them. Don't get into one if the ship sinks... Surface detail is coarse and masts and other fiddly bits are unusable.
Weapons: Replace all of these. Gun turrets are incorrectly shaped and barrels are overscale and useless, even the 15" main barrels. Only seven twin 37mm mountings are supplied (one for B-turret), and fourteen awful 20mm single mountings. Very much like the inaccurate Airfix 1/600 Bismarck and Tirpitz models. There appears to be a distinct lack of research in this kit.
General: The illustrations on the box sides are correct, very much like the Tamiya and Academy kits. This is really too much, to have blatant fraud regarding the contents of the box. The Vanguard is reputed to be no better than this kit (and the Bismarck is the same). However, I have the 1/450 Akagi , and am very happy with it. I have heard that the Shinano is also good, and I assume that the Yamato and Musashi are equally acceptable, although no match for the Tamiya offerings. The price is somewhat less though, so I would recommend these kits to beginners who do not want to spend a fortune on a model which they may not be able to do justice to. (GH)
GOOD. First issued in 1975, kit contains the two subs and the bow and stern of a sinking merchantman. The subs are very close to scale length and the parts have outstanding surface detail, in fact some of the best ever in injection molded 1/700 scale. The deck of the Type IX and the miniscule deck guns are especially impressive.
Unfortunately, there are problems too. Type VII deck is too wide and the hull is a bit off in shape, not fully capturing the graceful, sleek appearance of the type. The dimensional errors could be corrected, but much of the superb surface detail would have to be destroyed. It also has annoying solid rails molded to the deck and conning tower. The Type IX hull is better, but there is an inaccurate bulging ballast tank at the waterline. Fortunately this can easily be scraped off. The conning towers for both subs, representing both the early and the later types with augmented AA, are just a bit short, and the periscopes for Type VII should have separate shears rather than the combined structures provided for both subs.
Still, unless you are an incurable sub freak these shortcomings aren't all that noticeable and the subs build into beautiful little models.
(TR) Review dated 1 May 2006.
FAIR. The 5" guns are wrong, and the screw-down flight deck is a real problem. The masts, radars & other antennae are a bit clumsy. Otherwise, pretty good. Hull is exactly the same as that on Hasegawa's 1/450 Yamato kit. Yes, it has the same too-large props from the Yamato. This is the only full-hull Shinano available. (DRW)
GOOD. New molding of the 1st light carrier sunk by the U.S. Navy at the Battle of Coral Sea. Comes with tree of early WW2 aircraft although when she sortied on 30 April 42, her air wing was 9x A6M2 Zero's, 4x A5M Claude's 6x B5N Kate's. Separate photo-etch kit is available as well as a super-detailed version (HSG30014) of the standard kit that includes retooled parts and photo- etch details. (ASG)
FAIR. Nice detail, but 20mm guns are terrible. Some scratchbuilding to depict ship at a specific period, since hull is generic for class. Depicts ship in 1944. (GH)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
OK. Very little detail, and the aft superstructure is wrong. The scale is more like 1/432 than 1/450. Like the 1/450 Yamato , the main deck is in three sections, and joining them seamlessly is difficult. This is the only Vanguard kit available in polystyrene, except for the HapDong, which appears to be a variant of the same kit. Don't bother with the Hapdong kit, though.
There is a nice, four-part article on accurizing this kit in "Model Ship Builder" magazine, No. 85-88, Sept/Oct 1993, Nov/Dec 1993, Jan/Feb 1994, and Mar/Apr 1994 (DRW)
UPDATE: I recently (2002) saw pictures of a FROG Vanguard, and it looks suspiciously similar to this kit. I don't know if the FROG kit predates the Hasegawa kit. (DRW)
Frog and Hasegawa exchanged kits in the 1970s, so this is likely the case, per (DM)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945. See Bill Swan's review of Agano, above.
GOOD. The three section main deck is a bit annoying, and some object to the thick plastic on the hull, but it sure looks like the Yamato to me. Propellers are too large, but can be cut down. Portrays the ship as she appeared in late 1944. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Essex-class for index.
FAIR. Nice molds, but instructions for this and Ticonderoga are confused. Looking at instructions, it appears from drawings that the first half of the instructions is for one, the second half for the other kit! Need references to sort out confusion. One kit is for a early hull ship, other is for a late-hull ship with two AA position on the bow. 20mm guns are poor. (GH)
FAIR/OK. The biggest gripe is that the roller doors on the port side aft of the elevator are incorrect; it should be spaced 4-3-2-1. Also the gun platform on the fantail is a little too tiny, and you need to sculpt the fantail along the centerline to get the crude "bow" the CV-9/19 class had for running astern. See Bert Kinzey's Detail and Scale volume on the USS Lexington for an excellent "how-to" on fixing this and other stuff about these kits. It's even possible to modernize them into post-war configurations, even into enclosed bow/angled deck units (as I have). (JMP)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
As of this writing, (2016) Hawk is owned by Round 2 Corp. of South Bend, Indiana. Indiana. Their website is here: http://round2corp.com/product-category/hawk/
| Coast Guard Cutter | Destroyer | LST | PT Boat | Sport Cruiser |
Editor's Note: See Rod Dautiel's review of the Testors 2003 reissue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Box art indicates the Fletcher-class destroyer USS The Sullivans (DD-537). Hull is about 6.75 inches long, which would make the scale about 1/670. This kit dates back to about 1967. Testors reissued this kit in 2003, and you can read my review of it in the Testors section. (DRW)
GOOD. Nice kit from 1960s which I suddenly bought for cheap from old collector. Scale I provide is my guess. It is full hull, and one LCI is included with the kit. Small decal with board number is provided. Details are excellent for such an old mold, but are somehow less impressive compared to Skywave LST kit by today's standards.
(AS), Review dated 22 March 2010. Editor's Note: Hull is said to be 6.5 inches long. Box art shows LST-493. Testors reissued this kit in 2003. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Tim Reynaga's review of the Testors 2003 reissue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Circa 1961. Motorized. (DRW)
Heller ships are usually of good quality. They are almost always
in 1/400 scale. The exceptions, such as the ex-Airfix Forrestal, are
usually molds from Airfix or other manufacturers. (DRW)
Check out their web page.
The primary site is in French; there is also a site in English.
Heller also makes a line of sailing ships in varied scales. (JP)
GOOD. This kit shares many parts with Le Normand, but represents the E52B class which was a further development of the escort type. It has different armament, bridge and deckhouse structures, funnel, masts and radar, but on the same hull. My comments under le Normand as regards the quality of the kit apply here. (JRC)
FAIR. (Based on in-box review) Reasonable hull moulding, given scale / size. Comes with 8 non-descript aircraft ! Ship fair, aircarft poor. (AMc)
Editor's Notes: Kit is said to be 65 cm long, with 622 parts. The real ship was launched in 1966, and sank in 1985. Thanks to Randy Ward for telling me about this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit is from the same mold as le Normand. (DRW)
Editor's Note: From the picture on the box, the ship is 3-masted and square rigged. Said to have 94 parts. Said to be 274mm long when complete. (DRW)
GOOD. (in-box review) A good, but very basic kit.
Main problems - AAA is too weak, you should add at least 2 20mm quads and 6 20mm singles if you want to depict her as of May 1941. The two aft AAA directors should not be domed - they should look like the larger open gun director on Heller's Z-31 kit.
No detail - especially on the 380mm barbarettes - this is correct for the Tirpitz but not the Bismarck.
I remember being disappointed that you could not make the 105mm guns rotate!
The camo is basically ok - if you want to depict her before she left the Baltic in 1941, but her turret tops may have been red.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika.
This kit cries out for PE (see the usual suspects). I have not built this kit, but do own it and I have built the Heller Tirpitz. (PKHM)
VERY GOOD. The shape and detail are very good. Standard Heller Quality. I really did not find a lot of errors here. The few I found were minor and actually not worth mentioning.
I was very pleased with the hull shape. This has been a problem for many manufacturers for some reason. The rake of the bow and the shear of the sides is very refreshing and captures the hull features nicely.
As for the Bismarck's weapons suite. I have looked and to date I have not been able to find a picture of her with any quad 20's. I have found a website and a book that mentions them, but not pictures. What some did not know was she put to sea still unfinished. Her aft secondary directors were suppose to be covered but it was never completed. In addition there were various other systems never installed due to lack of time.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit is related to the Heller Tirpitz.
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. This is a kit of a small commercial fishing boat based in the Faero Islands. Typical Heller quality - Good subject matter for a heavy weatering job. (DH)
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
GOOD. Although this ship is the same class as the Le Corse (E50 frigate), the Heller kit represents its conversion in the early 60's as a testbed for the new 100 single turret and its associated DRBC 32A fire control system. An interesting variant, but not evident from the box top artwork, which led me to buy it as my representative E50 boat, and then having to buy another 'real' one. My comments on quality for le Normand apply to this kit also. (JRC)
GOOD. A bit short on detail, but nice overall. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on In-Box Review) Kits appears to be very complete. I like the aircraft selection as Heller is always very generous with supplying aircraft.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Notes: This kit was issued as:
Editor's Notes: This kit was issued as:
OK. This is a very early Heller kit, with very crude mouldings, which was re-released in the UK in 2001. The Colbert is a handsome ship and an interesting example of post-war gun-based AA cruisers. Even so, if it wasn't for the range of PE fittings from L'Arsenal, I might well have given up. The armament is dreadful (it is nearly impossible to get the 127mm barrels off the sprue without breaking them), the boats are mis-shapen, and the complex lattice masts best forgotten. There is no surface detail at all. L'Arsenal provided doors, ladders, radars (3), cable reels, motto plaques, and WEM the railings, anchors and paint. The masts I scratchbuilt in brass, using the box picture, which is actually pretty accurate, for the detail. Various other details came from the spares box.
So a good subject with potential, but takes a lot of work to produce anything worth looking at. (JRC)
FAIR. (Based on in-box review) Kit in 36 pieces / full hull. Plan states LOA of 45m, but a quick check of kit scale shows nearer 42m. Gun f'ward and missile [?] aft, look overscale. Otherwise would make nice model. (AMc)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as
Editor's Notes: le Corse was the lead ship of the class. See Joe Poutre's and John Clements' comments under le Brestois, even though that kit represents a variant of the class. This kit has been issued as
Editor's Note: Said to be 147mm long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to have 20 parts. (DRW)
FAIR. This is an interesting little model of a French diesel sub of the 1960s. I believe the kit was released sometime in the 1970s but never reissued, so it has become somewhat hard to find. It comes molded in dark green plastic with a simple parts breakdown and a minimum of parts. An interesting feature is a choice of different bows, both early and late with the latter having a large bulbous sonar array on top. Quality is typical of the era with ok but not great fit and fairly minimal surface detail. The hull comes in two pieces with the conning tower attached, split laterally. This makes for a nasty seam right in the middle of the upper deck, and the separate bow parts add another. Smaller parts are reasonably good. Decals include markings for nine of the eleven boats which served in the French navy, but Minerve and Euridice, both lost with all hands in accidents at sea, are omitted.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
GOOD. (in-box review) Usual Heller molding, quite good but not the best. (I like Heller because they don't do the same-old-same-old, but they aren't the best. The only, for much of what they do.)
Said to be 127mm long. 17 parts
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
Editor's Note:Presumably the same kit as Tourville. (DRW)
GOOD/VERY GOOD.
VERY GOOD.
Note: year of fit is not specifically called out but appears to be late 1930s. The model sports a full complement of ship’s boats and very little AAA. Dunkerque and Strasbourg are sometimes called battlecruisers but this is a mistake, they were fast, lightly armed and armored battleships specifically designed to chase down and defeat the upgunned heavy cruisers of the Deutschland class in Germany.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic model kit that includes metal chain for the anchors, a small decal sheet with ship’s name and patriotic slogans as well as a paper sheet of flags. Plastic railings are also included. This kit was born in the 1970s and to my knowledge has not been reissued in decades. Rumor has it that this kit may be reissued soon so check with your favorite vendor. I certainly hope it is as I will repurchase this kit and build another one!
All parts are molded in a dark gray plastic that is crisp and had little to no flash. Surface detail was good but not outstanding. Wood deck detail is created with raised continuous lines. There are no butt ends to the planks. The detail for the main and secondary battery turrets is good. The gun barrels are fair to good for plastic. In fact they are actually superior to the ones found in Heller’s Richelieu and Jean Bart kits. The problem with the turrets is more in the nature of the fit rather than the detail. Seams are too readily apparent. The most serious issue with the kit in general was the fit of some of the aft superstructure parts and the fit of the one piece main deck to the hull. Careful gluing a section at a time will eliminate the gaps that will occur if you try to do it all at once. The one piece deck is actually a bonus as there are no joint seams to fill and it makes painting so much easier. The ship’s boats are a bit clunky and lack detail so scratch building detail will help a lot there. The little bit of AAA included is pretty much hopeless as the shapes have more in common with a squashed insect than a weapon. The catapult for the included aircraft was a really good try for the times but just screams out for a photo etch replacement. The aircraft itself is a bit globular and ill defined. The aircraft and boat cranes are somewhat ill defined as well, again, that is something a good PE set would fix. The plastic railings included with the kit are just way too over scale to use. They look a lot more like a split rail fence than railings. The hull is in two halves with no provision for waterlining. Some of the later Heller kits like King George V #1060 have an incised line in the hull for a waterline option. I waterlined mine so I can’t really say how good or bad the lower hull is.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
Availability: unless reissued this will be a hard kit to find. They pop up from time to time on eBay and at old kit brokers but be prepared to pay over $100 and sometimes a lot more for a good example.
As I read this review it appears far more negative than I intended. This is actually a pretty good kit of an almost unique subject (there is also the Strasbourg). When built up it looks really quite good and convincing as a model of this extraordinary ship. The only real downside to this kit is that there is no dedicated photo etch detail set available for it. You will have to scratch build your add ons and rustle up some generic 1/400 railings to complete this kit. As active as the 1/350 model scene has been over the last few years there is still no option for the last of the French battleships other than the Heller kits of Dunkerque, Strasbourg, Jean Bart and Richelieu (let’s not talk about the flawed Trumpeter 1/350 Richelieu, it just makes people mad).
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Tartar variant of the T47 class. See Kersaint, reviewed by John Clements. (DRW)
Same kit as Suffren.
Editor's Note: Said to be 149mm long. (DRW)
FAIR.
This kit, the Occident #L-960 and the Pourquoi-Pas? #L-950 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them “typical” vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a "typical" English Brigantine rigged ship, most likely of the early 19th century. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built mine ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship’s hull just below the cap railing for "alternate" parts for each kit. In the case of the Brigantine this is just a section of hull with scuppers. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
Editor's Note: From pictures, she looks like a 3 masted clipper to me. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same as Clemenceau.
Editor's Note: Same as Clemenceau.
Editor's Note: Same as Airfix Series 10kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 140mm long. (DRW)
GOOD. The kit shows Gneisenau with the Atlantic bow and raised funnel. It is after her 1941 refit in Brest, with the larger aircraft hanger. (AP?)
GOOD. (in-box review) Overall the kit is good. AAA fit is inadequate - use good references. For example, there are no 20mm quads and too few 20mm singles. The kit tries to represent the ship as of the 1942 channel dash, but the AAA fit is completely wrong for this period. At the very least, she carried 3 20mm quads and 8 or 10 20mm singles. Again, use good sources! It also has an open bridge, which again is wrong for 1942 and beyond. However, the catapult, hanger and main mast are essentially correct - if basic - for a post Jan. 1942 fit. Heller provides a catapult on the roof of the hanger, but this is wrong. The actual catapult was internal, the spare Ar-196 was carried on the platform above the hangar.
I have read that the rear 280MM turret is located too far aft, but I have not confirmed this. Also, Heller gives you a centre bow anchor - this should not be used and all the holes for it and its chain should be filled - if you are going for a post-1939 fit. The full-length main deck features three open stairways without covers - you can add PE/scrap plastic covers from scrap plastic or PE and portray them in either the open or closed position. The main fault is that Heller doesn't provide the prop-shafts and supports for the two outboard propellers. I used spares/scrap pieces pulled off of my old Airfix Bismarck and Tirpitz to remedy this oversight. They may a little short, but fit well given the physical restraints of the aft hull. Also, Heller does not provide the triple 21" TT - N.B. it appears that she did not carry any spare torpedos and their associated armoured lockers. It seems that the Gneisenau did not carry any camo during the Dash, apart from the reported "light blue" main turrets that is! She was given a quick camo job when she was drydocked to repair the mine damage she suffered during the dash. However, I have not been able to locate a good plan of this pattern.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarcation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika. With PE (WEM has a set dedicated for Heller's Scharnhorst and Gneisenau and perhaps Tom', and don't forget WEM's KM AAA set) and good references it can be made into a great model.
My Gneisenau is still awaiting her turn in my drydock - but I have built the Scharnhorst. (PKHM)
GOOD. The triple 11 inch gun turrets are great! With some work you can convert this kit into the 15in-gunned Gneisenau. The biggest obstacle is the insertion of about 30 scale feet of hull forward of Anton turret. The 15in guns can come from any Heller Bismarck or Tirpitz.
To insert the extra hull length you will first have to slice the hull vertically forward of the Anton Barbette using any hobby saw. The deck will have to be cut too. The deck is easy to fix, as it is likely that it would have been steel plated. Remove as many of the deck fittings as possible and cover with .005-sheet styrene. The hull is another matter. You cannot just add a hull, the shape will be wrong. Using styrene wedges you will have to blend the pieces together using reinforcement on the inner hull. Crossbeams are recommended. Once you get the framing done take three strips of .005 styrene approximately 2.5 inches long and cover the framework. Use putty to blend in the ends. Add the armor belt and boom an 832-foot long German Battle cruiser with 6 x 15 in guns. Since this is a two piece hull I can only stress the need to add bracing to the hull prior to starting this project. (RDF)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit is a variant of the Scharnhorst.
Editor's Note: Said to be 149mm long. Possibly the same as Heller's Eagle kit. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. The best Graf Spee on the market after the Testor 1/720 kit.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Possibly the same as Heller's Drakkar Oseberg kit. (DRW)
FAIR/POOR.
This kit purports to be a galley typical of the ships that were used by William The Conqueror in 1066 to transport his army to Britain and conquer it. Even though Heller makes reference to illustrations in the Bayeuax Tapestry this looks way too much like their Viking longboat Drakkar Oseberg # 0885 kit to me. So I suspect that one or the other was recycled plastic.
Once again this is a kit for the casual builder only. There are too many errors and omissions for the purist. If you want a longboat of this era seek out the recently reissued Revell Viking ship. This is an all plastic kit which includes rigging line, vacuformed parts and decals for the shields. Kit parts are covered in Heller's famous wood graining. The graining is over scale but for the casual builder it looks great and covers up lots of brush painting flaws. Alignment of the very few ship parts is off and a good bit of fiddling and filling with putty was required. Most of the parts consist of oars (of dubious shape) and shields, the mounting of which looks like it would interfere with the use of the oars. The ship is equipped with a mast, spar and vacuformed sail (a couple of crude blocks are thrown in as well). The directions aren't all that good at trying to figure out how that mast, spar and sail are supposed to be rigged and stayed so your are really on your own there. Notwithstanding it's many faults I built mine into a colorful (if of dubious accuracy) galley/longboat to display. Outside of a very few experts in the field no one will know if it is accurate or not. Just have fun with this one.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
The Heller 1/400 scale Hood is indeed just a reissue of the old 1970s kit. Different box art, but I think that is about it. I should know what is on my own website ("Battle Cruiser Hood"), but the site has grown so large that certain details in various articles frequently escape me! At any rate, I'm pretty sure we have a basic list of problems with the kit there (look under "Hood Today" and then select "Scale Models and Miniatures", then select the Heller Hood from the list of models).
Just in case the website review/problem list isn't comprehensive enough, here is a basic list of problems beyond the overall lack of detail which plagues the kit:
I know it seems like a lot of work, but with said book, the WEM photoetch set (and paints...get AP507B for most of the ship's surfaces, AP507A for metal decks and of course Corticene for bridge decks, plus any brand of black for the starfish and tan for the dulled teak decks), you can do a pretty good job. I've seen it done. I'll do it myself once I get some time and have completed my other Hood kits. (FWA), review dated 30 November 2002.
GOOD.
Heller's Illustrious, King George V and Hood are the only 1:400 RN WW2 ships produced, and the only RN vessels in Heller's line-up. All three have been sporadically re-released, and are currently once again available. Perhaps I am biased, but in my opinion the Illustrious class with their closed hurricane bows are to me among the most elegant of WW2 carriers. I do not know from when the kits date, but I first heard about these kits about 15 years ago, so I assume they are 20 years or older. As such, they lack much of the finesse of modern Tamigawa plastic kits, but several characteristics mitigate in their favour: size, merciful abstention from small details which cannot stand the test of advances in molding technology, and the burgeoning cottage industry's available after-market sets.
The Illustrious kit includes decals and color guides for her and Victorious. Formidable could also be built, but as I do not have references, I cannot say whether it will be easy to build Indomitable, a half-sister which had a different hangar and armour design and possibly external differences.
Since I have no references, I cannot speak for the accuracy of the kit, but at present White Ensign Models in the UK produce both a resin bridge front replacement and 2 extensive frets of photo-etch details which would make the model meet today's standards of detail.
The full hull is molded as port and starboard halves, all large openings are flashlessly clean. Portholes are fairly deep, and square window-type openings and anchor chain holes are through. Only on one side, three of the square holes are covered in flash. For old molds, the result is remarkably good. The armour belt is prominent, as are the stabilizers, and there are several hull details such as degaussing cable, vertical pipes, struts on the sponsons, and the waterline is marked. The shafts and propellors look presentable.
All the hull boxes are completely devoid of detail, the boats are spartan but look functional, as do the rafts. Cranes ae basic, the crane arm is molded as a frame, but photo-etch will be much better.
The flight deck is one-piece, with the two elevators molded in the up position. There is no hangar deck. The catapult is raised with the track recessed, it looks very smart. The arrestor wires are molded on, as are pins depicting their holders. The flight deck marking edges are raised, and the forward safety net is molded in the down position. Sponsons and platforms have no details save coaming. The flight deck fits into the hull, so the modeler will have to carefully mate the deck to the correct height to minimze filling and sanding of the hull-deck edge which becomes the new edge of the flight deck for much of its length.
The bridge is spartan, with the sides only including portholes, a few very fine horizontal raised lines, and extremely fine outlines of the bridge front windows. The horizontal surfaces have no detail. The funnel is similar, with raised ladders and various details added. The funnel cap is solid with raised detail. The radio antennas at the edge of the flight deck are solid and would need to be replaced. The main mast looks quite good, but the radars sould be replaced with photo-etch. Search-lights are basic, mounting and light are one piece.
The eight 4.5-inch twin gun turrets look the correct shape, and the gun barrels are surprisingly good-looking. The directors have some mold marks on them, and are in two parts cut vertically, making them quite a bit of work to complete properly cylindrical. The six octuple 2-pounder AA weaponson the other hand, while functional, are far too simple. two layers of barrels are mated together, and glued to a flat base. Two single 20-mm guns are supplied for the front and rear of the bridge structure. Photo-etch and sprue would help a lot here too. Six Swordfish with extended wings, and six Martlets with optional folded wings, are supplied, propellors as separate parts. The noses needs work as there is no engine recess, the propellors need replacement with photo-etch, and the flying surfaces should be thinned down. The landing gear consists of pins. The number of aircraft is adequate, but more types would have been nice, and for Victorious different types are needed too (Albacores, Sea Hurricanes, Avengers, Seafires, Corsairs).
Illustrious began her service in April 1940 (8 Skuas, 4 Fulmars, 24 Swordfish) or in August 1940 (12 Fulmars, 24 Swordfish). She launched the raid on Taranto in November 1940 with these. Then she was severely bombed in January 1941 and retired to the US. She emerged from Norfolk Navy Yard at the end of 1942 with improved AA armament and took on Grumman fighter planes. In 1944 she was upgraded with Barracudas and Corsairs. However, the kit does not depict either most of her pre-1942 aircraft, nor the US-fitted armament, which by the end of the war included, according to the instruction booklet, 3 quad 40-mm Bofors and 52 20-mm guns (twins and singles).
Color schemes are given for Illustrious in the Indian Ocean from October 1942 - February 1943, with three-tone wave pattern shown on both sides and two colors on the deck; and for Victorious with the Home Fleet: the instructions say that from May - June 1941 she carried Swordfish, and in September 1941 Martlets. The camouflage for Victorious is angular three-tone on the sides, and two-color irregular wavy on the deck. Certainly interesting and eye-catching schemes, both.
The kit is basic, but of good overall quality, giving plenty of scope for detailing without having to remove many, by tody's standards, sub-standard parts. References will be required to build the kit at any point past service entry, and to add details. I rate the quality of the kit as good.
(GH), review dated 2 September 2005
Shows Jean Bart post-war, with bulges and as-completed AA armament. (AP)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review) Lots of guns. If you gig is lots of weapons and you do not want to build the HMS Victory, this is your ship.
This kit shares the same hull and main guns as the Richelieu kit, but that is about it. The ship was completed 7 years after World War II, in 1952 and the superstructure was radically altered to reflect the change in emphasis on AA gunnery. It is very unique appearance to say the least. In fact from dead astern she looks nothing like her sister ship.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: The kit does not specifically indicate year of fit, however, it would appear obvious from the addition of hull bulges added in the assembly sequence and the armament for AAA that the ship reflects her post war reconstruction and not her original planned fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit supplemented with metal chain for the anchors. There is a small decal sheet with ship’s name and patriotic slogans and a paper flag sheet. Plastic railings are also included. The model is a creature of the 1970s and has not been reissued since then. There has been some noise of late that under the new owners of the molds reissues of the battleship kits may be coming, I wouldn’t hold my breath on that though.
Nonetheless, the dark gray moldings are crisp and have pretty good surface detail, especially for the era. Wood planking detail certainly is not up to today’s standards, rather it is of the raised line variety with no butt ends to the planks but I have seen excellent effects achieved with this to work with. My kit has little to no flash so preparation will be of the usual for a plastic kit, removing seams and smoothing out joint lines. The hull is in two halves with no provision for waterlining. Some of the later Heller kits like King George V #1060 have an incised line in the hull for a waterline option. The hull pieces, main battery and main deck are shared with the Richelieu #1015 model. Inside the hull and underneath the deck are markings for the appropriate portholes and openings to be drilled out to fit the kit specific parts. This has the added benefit of making painting the deck much easier as the vast majority of fittings are added later. I wish all manufacturers would do this. ( I have to admit that I have been seduced by the latest thing in large scale 3rd party add ons: the micro thin real wood decks!, no more painting wood decks for me). Getting back to the deck, it is all one piece. There are no ugly and inconvenient deck joints to fret over. The bulges appropriate for Jean Bart are added to the shared hull. I would anticipate (IF I were to build a full hull version, which won’t happen in a million years for me) that those joints will be tricky to finesse.
So far good news, so why not rate this kit excellent? Now the bad news: turrets are multi-piece which will be hard to put together without bringing out the putty. The main battery gun barrels are just awful (happily brass ones are available for this kit). Worse news for us waterline guys, those tricky to finesse added hull bulges will be even worse to cut down for the waterline version. AAA is nice looking but over scale. The turreted ones are in two pieces with the seam right down the middle. The bonus of the included plastic railings really isn’t one. They are downright clunky and hugely out of scale, they look like tree trunks strung together. The last straw, for some at least, there is no dedicated photo etch detail set available for this kit.
Directions:: large format sheets with many blown up line drawings with Heller/Humbrol paint colors called out in each step. As to the color suggestions I would take them with a grain of salt. Overall I would rate the instructions as very good to excellent as there really don’t appear to be any ambiguities present. Whatever little blurbs of print there are present, such as a mini-canned history, are in a Rosetta Stone of languages.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
Despite its flaws and age I would still highly recommend this kit to anyone interested in battleship design and/or the navies of Europe. It is still a pretty good kit even by today’s standards. They appear from time to time on eBay and with the old kit brokers, sometimes selling for really silly money.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Richelieu-class.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. The model is NOT the version shown on the box. The cover shows the modern Exocet-armed version, while the model is of the older, Masurca-armed version. The ship never actually carried Masurca. The details are good, though I would recommend brass railings and detail/replacement parts from the French company l'Arsenal. (JP)
FAIR. The Jeanne d'Arc entered service in 1964 and has a distinctive profile, with a large forward superstructure and a long flight deck aft. Acting as a training ship in peacetime (she normally undertakes one annual world cruise with escorts), she can be quickly converted into an amphibious assault ship or troop carrier. She has been updated and the Heller model seems to represents a mixture of old and new, as will be described below.
The model has been around for a long time. As commonly with Heller, there is a lack of surface detail but the overall shape and look are well rendered. Many of the mouldings are overscale, especially those making up the large vertical mast and its many platforms and attachments. On the other hand, the pieces making up the bridge structure replicate the complicated sloping design quite well and have clearly marked windows. Some internal bracing before attaching these parts to the hull is helpful as the joints are very sketchy and weak.
The radar and forward structure largely represents that as built, but Heller supply the Exocet missiles fitted in the early 70's. There have been some minor alterations to the bridge structure and, more substantially, to the radar fit since then, which are not represented in the kit. Correcting these is not a big job. According to my sources, it would seem that the out of the box version would fit the ship in the late 70's or early 80's .
Making a decent model is eased greatly by the accessories available from L'Arsenal. For mine, I used the following:
Whilst the heavy mast is usable, I replaced all the moulded platforms with scratchbuilt brass wire and plasticard structures using the plans available from the French National Navy Museum.
The decal set is recent, very matt and covers all the flight deck markings, motto plaques, flags, etc.
Although this kit shows its age, with the after market products now available, and careful modification, it can be made into something quite different and eye-catching. (JRC), review dated 12 February 2006.
FAIR. These kits represent the Tartar conversion of the T47 class (Surcouf et al), and consist of the basic sprues plus the necessary extra parts, which make up into quite a strikingly different ship to the basic T47 as built kits. See my review of Maille-Breze for comment on detail. (JRC)
FAIR. Hard kit to get. One of the best features of this kit is the 1/400 scale Mk13 missile launcher, SPS-48 3D antenna and missile directors.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Notes: Heller has released the T47 Tartar variant kit as:
See also Surcouf, which represents the lead T47 class as built. (DRW)
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Note: let’s start with the fit. I don’t really know what time period this kit is supposed to represent as the AAA doesn’t seem right for either of the ships you are supposed to be able to build from this kit, Prince of Wales or KGV. With some research and some extra parts you could finagle either one I suppose but really why would you want to? Let’s go to the bits and pieces:
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit in dark gray styrene with some metal chain for the anchors and a paper flag sheet. Plastic railings are also included. No decals were found in my kit. The hull is in two halves that have an incised groove on the inside to facilitate making a waterline kit (the biggest plus of the kit, everything else is pretty much down hill). The tops of each hull half have molded in bollards and chocks that are blocky and over scale. The one piece deck (OK, another plus) has raised continuous lines to simulate planking. There are no butt ends to the planks and the lines themselves are uneven and in a couple of places a bit fuzzy. The rest of the molded in deck detail is blocky and featureless. At least you don’t have to join multiple deck pieces together and fix ill fitting seams. The rest of the parts are thankfully flash free but that is about the only virtue. There is little to no surface detail and the whole thing is as plain as can be. You could rustle up some brass details to help out the slab sides of the superstructure parts from generic sets of watertight doors, etc. As far as cranes, inclined stairs, ladders, stack grids, radars, some AAA shields and scale railings are concerned there is a major saving grace: the Tom’s Modelworks dedicated PE set #4007 for this kit. As far as the plastic railings go, the less said the better. I am not aware of any brass barrels for main and secondary batteries so you are on your own with them as well. Compared to the Heller Jean Bart, Richelieu, Strasbourg and Dunkerque this kit is a resounding disappointment. It doesn’t even seem like it could have come from the same company.
Directions:: large format sheets with many blown up line drawings. Painting directions are called out in French in each illustrated step. As to the color suggestions I would take them with a grain of salt. Overall I would rate the instructions as excellent except for the painting directions as there really doesn’t appear to be any ambiguity present. One downside of the early editions is that the directions are in French. Translations of the French into German and English are provided on a supplementary page that lacks the line drawings so that you will have to lay the sheets side by side if you wish to reference the explanations. You really don’t need the written directions as the line drawings really are more than enough. You will want to do your own paint research anyway so you don’t need that either.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
I don’t recommend the purchase of this kit unless you absolutely, positively must have 1/400. The similar vintage Tamiya 1/350 kits of KGV and POW are far superior and have a host of after market goodies (like brass barrels, photo etch and real wood decks!) that can turn them into fabulous models.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
GOOD. (in-box review) Usual Heller molding, quite good but not the best. Early look: some parts feel a bit large.
Editor's Notes:According to Heller, the kit is 312mm long, with 95 parts.
GOOD. The kit shows the ship later in the war with a modified bow and funnel. As most Heller kits, the parts fit quite good and includes plastic railings, which are not liked by everyone. (ME)
VERY GOOD. Nice kit of the Lutzow. One of the very few. Quality is standard Heller, and yes, everybody hates the railings.
This kit shares the hull and armament of the Scheer and Graf Spee, aside for that and the main deck everything else is very different.
The appearance is well represented.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Two of these are provided, so plenty of scope for variants, as indeed there were in real life. The kit is less than 7 inches long and has 78 parts. I have not made up this kit but the parts look finer than the T-23 and Z-31, reviewed elsewhere in this list, and from the box it would seem to be both accurate compared to sources, and detailed, with the usual Heller provisos about AA guns, which are their standard pattern. Conversion to the later M-types would be possible but requires difficult and extensive surgery.
Variants provided for are:
Decals include the boot topping, ensigns and the eagle emblem on the bridge front. However, strangely, there are only enough for one boat!
Verdict: Excellent; requires little upgrading other than the usual PE replacements and railings.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
FAIR. An early Heller effort - and it shows. The deck will not fit into the hull without considerable effort; there is very little detail on the deck and superstructure; the two lattice masts are hopeless and the gun turrets very crude. Having said that, if you can make up new masts in plastic or brass rod, thin out all the clumsy edges and offset moulding lines, and use as much of L'Arsenal's PE details as you can, it's an impressive ship. (JRC)
Editor's Note: See also Surcouf.
Editor's Note: 82 parts. Said to be 18 inches long.
Editor's Notes:According to Heller, the kit is 485mm (19 inches) long, with 106 parts.
FAIR+. Molded in brown and white plastic, 99 parts, vacu-formed sails, paper pennants and flag. Extreme length of kit hull (hull only, not including outrigger): 8 and 3/4th inches. Keel: 6 and 1/2 inches. Beam: 2 and 5/8th inches.
The actual dimensions and appearance of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria are not known. Based on available knowledge about the caravel type of that period, most scholars estimate for Nina a 50 to 55 foot keel length. Measured in 1/75th scale, Heller's Nina has a keel of only 40 feet, definitely on the small side. Of interest, the size and shape of the Heller kit's hull and main deck match almost exactly the 1/100 scale general arrangement drawings found on page 111 of Xavier Pastor's THE SHIPS OF CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS. If you wish to present Heller's Nina as 1/75th scale no one can prove you wrong. But treating it as 1/100 scale allows for compatible display with other historically significant ship types, as represented by Revell's 1/90th Santa Maria, Airfix's 1/96th Mayflower and Heller's 1/100th HMS Victory, among others.
Scholars have reconstructed lateen rigged caravels with 2, 3 or 4 masts. Heller presents Nina as two masted, fitting her with the lateen rig she started out with on Columbus' first voyage (the outbound leg, in the Canary Islands, Nina's rig was changed to that of a caravela rodonda: an additional mast was stepped in her bows, the main and foremast fitted with square sails).
Nice fit. Hull form and detailing conforms well with what is known about the 15th century caravel. Deck furniture/equipment is sparse, and for some the blocks and other rigging details will be too simplified. But with a little research, small touches can be added (fire box, binnacle, etc.), after-market blocks purchased.
Heller is known for molding wood grain onto their kits and, of course, it is always way over scale. As to whether it enhances appearance is a matter of taste. But one big advantage to molded in wood grain is that it allows the beginning modeler (or dilettante, such as myself) to brush paint the Nina without fear of the finished model being marred with brush marks. No need for the time and expense of airbrush and spray booth, or investing years developing brush skills, to get a pleasing result. This, coupled with the caravel's small size and simplicity of the lateen rig, means Heller's Nina is much more likely to see satisfactory completion than, say, Revell's 1/96th scale USS Constitution?
I highly recommend this kit.
(MDS), review dated 12 January 2004.
Editor's Note: This kit is presumably the same as, or at least closely related to, Heller's Z-31 kit, since Marceau and Z-31 were actually the same ship. (DRW)
FAIR. (Based on in-box review) Example of mine-sweeper built 1955 [aslo saw service with West German Navy] Kit in 48 pieces / full hull. Dimensions seem reasonably correct. Detailed sweep deck [floats / reels etc.] I think would build to a reasonable representation of the class. (AMc)
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
GOOD. This kit represents the ship as built in 1956. It is a simple kit to put together and gives a convincing representation of this attractive class of escort vessel. As always, Heller capture the sheer line and bow flare very well. The details parts are quite fine and a great improvement on their first attempts at ship models, such as the Colbert and the T47 destroyers. Some parts can be thinned down, such as the mast components and gun barrels, but addition of L'Arsenal's excellent PE for doors, railings, 20mm guns, and radars really make the difference. If you can find one on Ebay, and they do come up regularly, it's well worth a look. (JRC)
Editor's Notes: le Normand was the lead ship of the class. This kit was issued as:
FAIR.
This kit, the Heller English Brigantine #L-955 and the Pourquoi-Pas? #L-950 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them "typical" vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a "typical" steam assisted sailing paddleship, most likely of the19th century. The directions claim twin ship status to the Sirius, a real ship. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built the Heller English Brigantine (the remarks are pertinent to this kit as well) ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship's hull just below the cap railing for "alternate" parts for each kit. In the case of the Occident/Sirius this is a junction point for the ship's paddle wheel assembly. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. The Brigantine kit has a simple flat stern but the Occident/Sirius kit has a bulbous after cabin that will be very hard to align and fit. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Said to be 156mm long when completed. Said to have 22 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 138mm long when completed. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued by Heller in the 1960s sometime. See my review of the Novo re-issue. (DRW)
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
This kit, the Occident #L-960 and the English Brigantine? # L-955 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them "typical" vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a specially built steam screw assisted polar exploration sailing ship probably unknown outside of France. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built the Heller English Brigantine (the remarks are pertinent to this kit as well) ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship's hull just below the cap railing for "alternate" parts for each kit. In the case of the Pourquoi-Pas? this is just a section of hull with what looks like gunports. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
FAIR. (based on in-box review) Built 1908. Sail/screw. Heller Cadet series, smaller version of their larger scale plastic kit. This bark-rigged vessel was built for Polar ocean explorations by a French explorer, little heard of outside of France, except for Polar exploration fans.
http://www.south-pole.com/p0000096.htm
Correctly, the name would include a question mark -"POURQUOI PAS?", meaning "Why Not?". The vessel actually served as a Q ship during WWI but apparently did not encounter any U-boats. The ship, being strongly constructed for service in ice fields, was also very heavily masted and the thick masts and yards of the kit may not be out of scale. Upper hull and deck has wood texture. Sails are molded furled. Boats are heavy and thickwalled; Funnel. etc. are not unreasonable.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Said to be 142mm long when completed. Brooks confirms that there are 37 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be over 3 feet long when completed. Said to have 572 parts.(DRW)
EXCELLENT. Overall this an excellent kit, perhaps the best KM ship Heller ever produced. In general, the fit is good, except for the forward AAA director towers - mine just refused to sit down until I had reduced the radius of the base and thinned out the walls on the tower (lowest edge). The only other major bug-a-boo is that the aft anchor was connected to a howser cable in the real ship - not a chain as depicted in the kit. With the addition of PE and a more accurate AAA outfit, it can be made into an excellent model.
Heller gives you a relatively good AAA fit for this kit, but the positioning of some of the 20mm quads is questionable. I suggest that you really research the ship and decide what period you want her to depict. While I really loved the fact that Heller at last gave you 20mm quads, their decision to have you glue a barrel assembly to locating pins on the turrets and former searchlight positions certainly limits your flexibility here. Spares from a Heller Z-31 kit will come in handy here. (And to think people laugh at me when I tell them I bought 11 of Heller's Z-31 kits - 10 to build and one for spare parts!)
Period notes:
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika. (PKHM)
EXCELLENT. I have always had a great affection for the Heller kits, as although they do lack modern levels of detail, and have the odd howler, they are usually of ships not available in the larger scale elsewhere (or haven't been until comparatively recently), and can be made to look quite good. I think that they do capture the lines of the subjects very well, even if the detail can be a bit off at times. As far as this one is concerned, I think it is one of the better ones. The release of GMM's PE fret for German ships in 1/400 has made detailing much easier; I had previously bashed around the 1/350 Bismarck set. Things would be even better if WEM or another supplier could produce the light AA pieces (the single 20's are on the GMM fret), which fit all German ships, of course, and a better Arado 196; GMM have the struts, but the whole plane needs replacing really.
For references I am using the Floating Drydock plan, supplemented by the Koop and Schmolke Vom Original zum Modell (for which you need a magnifying glass to read the plans), and a very good 1/600 1945 fit plan which appeared in the Scale Models Magazine in July 1977 in the final part of a three-part review of all the then available kits of the ship, including the Heller one. There are numerous photographs available.
You can get a fantastic amount of detail on a model of this size and if, like me, your normal scale is 1/700, it's a nice change to do those extra little details that you can't do in the smaller scale. (JRC)
EXCELLENT. As usual Heller's production of the Prinz Eugen is possibly their best work. I really can not add much to the details already mentioned, but I will say this: Anyone who has built this kit has probably tried to get the Heller Hipper, which is no longer produced and expensive to buy. You can make the Hipper fairly easily. The biggest job is the bow area. The biggest job is the bow and hangar area. Once you have reshaped these your work is about done. After that some minor superstructure work and only the most knowledgeable will know the difference.
Other conversions include:
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007
Editor's Note: Said to be 146mm long. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Said to be 34.6 inches long. Said to have over 900 parts.(DRW)
GOOD. Simple kit of the first French boomer. Overall black paint scheme, small number of parts, makes a quick addition to any sub collection and a nice contrast to the USN and USSR SSBN subs which dominate the modeling market. Some filling and sanding needed around the sail and top of hull but nothing too major. (DH)
EXCELLENT. This one will knock your socks off! (DRW)
It takes quite a bit of work, though. (AP?)
EXCELLENT. I agree that it is a long project if you want it done right. I would recommend brass railings, since the plastic ones are too thick and snap too easily. Heller has been very good about replacing missing parts from my Richelieu. (JP)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: The kit does not specifically indicate year of fit, however, it would appear from the plethora of 40 mm and 20 mm AAA that the model represents the late war fit.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit supplemented with metal chain for the anchors. There is a small decal sheet with ship’s name and patriotic slogans as well as a paper flag sheet. Plastic railings are also included. The model is a creature of the 1970s and has been reissued several times over the last few decades. My remarks refer to the initial offering, your mileage may vary with regard to crispness, flash, etc.
Nonetheless, the dark gray moldings are crisp and have pretty good surface detail, especially for the era. Wood planking detail certainly is not up to today’s standards, rather it is of the raised line variety with no butt ends to the planks but I have seen excellent effects achieved with this to work with. My kit has little to no flash so preparation will be of the usual for a plastic kit, removing seams and smoothing out joint lines. The hull is in two halves with no provision for waterlining. Some of the later Heller kits like King George V #1060 have an incised line in the hull for a waterline option. The hull pieces, main battery and main deck are shared with the Jean Bart #1020 model. Inside the hull and underneath the deck are markings for the appropriate portholes and openings to be drilled out to fit the kit specific parts. This has the added benefit of making painting the deck much easier as the vast majority of fittings are added later. I wish all manufacturers would do this. ( I have to admit that I have been seduced by the latest thing in large scale 3rd party add ons: the micro thin real wood decks!, no more painting wood decks for me). Getting back to the deck, it is all one piece. There are no ugly and inconvenient deck joints to fret over.
So far good news, so why not rate this kit excellent? Now the bad news: turrets are multi-piece which will be hard to put together without bringing out the putty. The main battery gun barrels are just awful (happily brass ones are available for this kit). AA guns are nice looking but over scale. The 40 mm guns are pretty basic. The bonus of the included plastic railings really isn’t one. They are downright clunky and hugely out of scale, they look like tree trunks strung together. There is mitigation here though, a dedicated photo etch detail set is available from your favorite hobby vendor that includes not just railings but everything you need to dress this kit up just like one of the newest ones. It is made by a French company called L’Arsenal. They can also provide brass barrels.
Directions: large format sheets with many blown up line drawings. Painting directions are called out in a summary of part numbers on the page with a line drawing of the completed ship. As to the color suggestions I would take them with a grain of salt. Overall I would rate the instructions as very good to excellent except for the painting directions as there really doesn’t appear to be any ambiguity present. One downside of the early editions is that the directions are in French. Translations of the French into German and English are provided on a supplementary page that lacks the line drawings so that you will have to lay the sheets side by side if you wish to reference the explanations.
Packaging: huge flimsy cardboard box that is so oversized that the parts flop around inside it like a freshly caught fish on the dock. Expect lots of plastic rash on the big pieces. Small parts are all bagged in plastic wrap.
Despite its flaws and age I would still highly recommend this kit to anyone interested in battleship design and/or the navies of Europe. It is still a pretty good kit even by today’s standards. It is regularly available on eBay and with old kit brokers and now and then with new kit brokers. There is an alternative available in 1/350 from Trumpeter but it has a number of accuracy issues that will be very hard to fix. If you want to assemble a fleet of France’s last battleships at this time the only way to go is the Heller 1/400 kits of Richelieu, Jean Bart, Dunkerque and Strasbourg.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Note: See also the related Jean Bart.
Editor's Note: Said to be 142mm long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit, which apparently included six boats instead of two. (DRW)
FAIR. One can't help wondering why so many! All are identical on one sprue each. The box claims they have 52 pieces, but this must have been lifted from the old 2 boat kit, as they actually have 26 pieces, and that includes the base and nameplate. In an injection moulded kit of this size and age, there are obvious limitations, and it shows. The armament, and again Heller falls down here, does provide some variety, though it is not made clear what they all are.
Variants in the instructions are:
Decals are provided for 7 different E-boat flotillas.
Verdict: Fair for the scale; I think there are better 1/350 versions available, but these are cheap if you buy the set for the other kits.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a re-issue of the Gowland Santa Maria. See Tim Reynaga's review of the Airfix Santa Maria for a full review. (DRW)
GOOD. Overall the kit is good. AAA fit is inadequate - use good references. The kit tries to represent the ship as of the 1942 channel dash, but the AAA fit is completely wrong for this period. Unfortunately, sources differ greatly on this. For example, there are no 20mm quads and too few 20mm singles. At the very least, she carried 6 20mm quads and 10 single 20mm's during the dash. At least one of the 20mm quads (on B turret) was removed immediately after the dash. It also has an open bridge, which again is wrong for 1942 and beyond. However, the catapult, hanger and aft tripod mast are correct - if basic - for a post 1942 fit. The fit of the tripod mast is not good - its legs will interfere with the catapult if you want it to rotate freely. It should be moved a little further aft, as it should not sit right against the rear of the hanger as Heller depicts it. Changing this, will perhaps force you to modify the length of the structure immediately aft of the mast. At least Heller does provide both the 21 " triple TT's and the armoured lockers for her spare torpedos. I have read that the rear 280MM turret is located too far aft, but I have not confirmed this. Also, Heller gives you a centre bow anchor - this should not be used and all the holes for it and its chain should be filled - if you are going for a post-1939 fit. The full-length main deck features three open stairways without covers - you can add PE/scrap plastic covers from scrap plastic or PE and portray them in either the open or closed position. The main fault is that Heller doesn't provide the prop-shafts and supports for the two outboard propellers. I used spares/scrap pieces pulled off of my old Airfix Bismarck and Tirpitz to remedy this oversight. They may a little short, but fit well given the physical restraints of the aft hull.
Heller's camo is ok but not very colourful or helpful - but there are several nice schemes for the Scharnhorst during the dash, during her return to Norway and the Spitzbergen operation as well as a very nice temporary scheme that she wore for a brief period in early 1943. Good research is the key!
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarcation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika.
With PE (WEM has a set dedicated for Heller's Scharnhorst and Gneisenau and perhaps Tom', and don't forget WEM's KM AAA set) and good references it can be made into a great model. My Scharnhorst was built many years ago, and she is still one of my favorite ships. (PKHM)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit is a close relative of the Heller Gneisenau.
GOOD. The kit shows Scheer later in the war, with the Atlantic bow and raised funnel. (AP)
FAIR. This kit is a real mix-up.
A) It is missing the post 1940 refit degaussing cable. I solved this problem by cutting a piece of thread, running it through white glue and pasting it in place. After spraypainting, it adhered nicely to the hull. In fact, my Scheer is about 20 years old now and the cable is still in place.
B) The general superstructure (forward) is post 1940 refit, but the funnel cap seems to be circa 1942, while the funnel ring appears to be in its 1939/40 fit. Bryer's "bible" depicts a more triangular shaped funnel platform with only three search light positions. I re-shaped and added plastic as needed to achieve this!
C) In 1940, the aft superstructure of the Scheer seems to have been enlarged as well. I resolved this problem by cutting the screenings around the aft 4.1 inch mounts, moving them forward, and adding strips of plastic to the deck. I simulated the the deck grooves by carefully scratching them into thenew plastic.
D) I added the radar mattress and a cupola to the rear range finder. If you do this, be very careful with the catapult - the tail of the Ar 196 will hit it!
E) I added another, smaller, radar screen just aft of the one fitted by Heller on the foretop cupola, as well as an assortment of 20 mm quads, twins, singles as well as 40mm singles.
In short, a lot of detail work, but she at least looks like all of her is the same time period.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika. (PKHM)
GOOD. I have seen two versions of this kit. One refitted and the other original configuration. I am not sure if they are both Heller, but I seem to recall it that way.
I have this kit in the early configuration with the armored tower. In this kit the box displays the ship in a bow starboard quarter position. It the late war refit with the poll mast and racked fuller the box shows the ship from astern, port quarter, (oddly the direct opposite view!)
Over all, a nice kit.
(RDF), review dated 3 August 2007
See Commandant Rivière.
EXCELLENT. In addition t its 1/400 warship line, Heller also produced a small number of commercial vessels in the larger 1/200 scale. In this case, the largest and most powerful ocean-going tug built to date. Many modelers will recognize this kit as the ship on the Heller paint display stand. Like most Heller kits, hull is billaterally split. You will need to plan out the paintng carefully, as there are several half-decks which blend into the superstructure. Decals included for either Smit Rotterdam or London (since kit was released, at least one more tug has been added to the class). Detailing on parts is great, fits are good, little filler needed. (DH)
GOOD+. A good rendition as usual, with some of the smaller bits a bit fuzzier than one might desire. (AP)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit shares most of its parts with the Heller #1025, Dunkerque so please see my build up review of that kit for remarks on the parts, directions, packaging, availability, etc. as they will apply equally. It is not a simple a rebox of the same parts with new artwork, there are parts to differentiate the ship from Dunkerque. The box art (Spanish Civil War markings) and kit contents seem to fix the kit’s fit to 1936. If you find one of these kits, buy it. It may not be the latest and the greatest but it makes for a satisfying build.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Suffren was the lead ship of the class. This kit was issued as:
GOOD. (Based on in-box review) (JP)
Editor's Notes: Heller has released the "as-built" T47 kit as:
See also Kersaint for John Clements' review of the T47 Tartar conversion. Apparently, none of these kits reflect the Malafon conversion. I would assume that the T53 kit (Forbin) is also related. (DRW)
Surcouf is "as-built" with three twin 127mm and two twin 57mm, while the D-T shows her with the Tartar conversion. (JP)
GOOD/EXCELLENT: General Comments; The "Le Suroit" ship's claim to fame is the fact that it was the first ship that Dr. Bob Ballard used to look for the RMS Titanic, and failed. Still, the ship did succeed in eliminating a vast portion of the search pattern, an accomplishment of sorts. At the time, the 'Le Suroit' was the most advanced civilian ship available that was capable of conducting the sort of search operation that Ballard envisioned, and the lessons he learned were used for the successful exploration of the Titanic site, as well as the sites of the Lusitania, Mauritania, and USS Yorktown (to name a few). The kit builds great right out of the box - a very impressive piece of model engineering. The crane used for lifting the RSV (the mini-sub) comes with clear plastic housing for the windows and clear plastic is also available for other windows on the kit, too. The hull fit is flawless and the multi-stage decking fits exactly the way its supposed to. The decals are thorough and complete, though I haven't gotten far enough along in the construction process to actually apply them. The masts and radars are multi-piece so expect to have a lot of sub-assemblies going on the workbench at the same time (which is nice, as you don't have to wait for one piece to dry before going on to the next stage of construction). I did have to sand down the seam lines on some of the smaller masts and there was some excess, but that was no big deal to clean up. The RSV support hoist begs for some cables and chain, and I have some spare anchor chain lying around that will do nicely. I wish the kit had come with some sailor figures, but I did find some pre-painted model train Z-scale "Workers In Rain Coats" figures by Preisser that are a little out-of-scale but should still fit the bill well enough. (TW)
EXCELLENT. Another of Heller's non-military kits, good detail, bilaterally split hull. Includes deep sea submersible which sits on the stern deck. This kit may actually scale out a touch smaller than 1/200, so finding appropriate PE may be an issue. I kit bashed mine by using the Trumpeter set which comes with the 1/200 Sovremenny kit. If you cut off the bottom leg (its comes originally with 4 bars), size seems to work really well. (DH)
GOOD. If only somebody would build a 1/600 version of this class, oh the possibilities. Great for building the numerous variants of this class ship. (RDF)
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit is of similar quality to the Narvik class Z-31 destroyer reviewed later in this list. A good likeness but lacking in the same areas of detail, which are easily remedied by the experienced modeller with some references. Additional to the original kit (I believe) is a 20mm bow chaser. Two bridge variants are provided; the 'long bridge' version attributed to T22/23, and the 'short bridge version to T28/36. I am not sure about this distinction, as I have a picture of T23 with a short bridge. Another minor niggle is that T31-36 were built without the prominent bow knuckle, but this still leaves plenty to choose from.
Disruptive colour schemes are given for T22 'Le Havre 9 July 1943' and T23 1943/1945 which look appropriate for Channel-based boats and concur with the few photographs of this class. T28/T36 are shown in plain light grey; correct for the Baltic.
Again, boot topping strip is provided, incorrect flags, and a full set of numbers.
Verdict: Good, and can be much improved by detail.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
GOOD. Like the Bismarck, a good if basic kit.
It does not come with any 20mm quads, and you should discard the very strange large twin AAA mountings that Heller does provide for the B turret and the front edge of her forward superstructure. I actually read the ship's log for June 1944 which reported that her AAA totaled 106 barrels, from which I deduced that the Tirpitz carried either 54, 62 or 74 20mm guns - assuming that she was never equipped with 40mm's and that her 37mm's were never augmented. Its hard to calculate because we don't know if this total includes or excludes her main armament as well as her secondary mounts. Also, Heller doesn't provide you with the 2 21 inch quad TT mounts that she carried after her arrival in Norway in 1942. I used spare mounts from Heller's Z-31 kit - but they do seem a little bit large.
The domed aft AAA directors are correct, but you may want to update them to incorporate the Würzburg device that was fitted on one of them.
I remember being disappointed that you could not make the 105mm guns rotate!
Like the Bismarck, she suffers from a lack of detail on her main parts - but the plain 380 barbarettes are actually accurate for this ship.
Heller only gives you a very basic camo pattern, she actually carried some very good ones and you should research her appearance very carefully before deciding on which pattern to use.
If your version comes with the boot-topping decal strip - don't use it - KM ships used a very dark gray for the waterline demarkation marking.
The flag set is wrong with all but the very first issue of this kit - as Heller has since decided to abide by the German ban on the swastika.
This kit cries out for PE (see the usual suspects). (PKHM)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to have 340 parts. Presumably, this kit is a variant of the Heller Bismarck. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Tourville was the lead ship of the class.
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
FAIR. I am not a U-boat expert, but this seemed to me to be the weakest kit in the set. The overall impression is not bad but the detailed parts, especially those provided to convert into a VII 41 with enhanced flak armament are rather crude, but these can be replaced. I think this kit is only of value if you want to make a diorama with others in the set, and even then, the Mirage kits might be worth looking at as an alternative. By way of compensation, decals are provided for 11 U-boat flotillas.
Verdict: Fair.
(JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Editor's Note: 409 parts, 700mm long
EXCELLENT: This is probably the most accurate plastic kit of Nelson's H.M.S. Victory of Trafalgar fame. It is a huge model, 43.3 inches (110 cm) long and 27.5 inches (70 cm) tall. The box is so big, it has a handle. With 2107 parts it is a kit not for the faint of heart. Some of the 104 cannons are composed of as many as eight parts.
The kit's accuracy compares very favorably with numerous authoritative sources, including the actual ship which rests in drydock today beautifully preserved (http://www.cix.co.uk/~flagship/Victory.htm or www.hms-victory.com/home).
Despite its amazing accuracy, large size and that the manufacturer is foreign (usually expensive), the shrewd builder can find it from some retailers online for as little as $79. A similar kit of Victory in wood at this scale or the more common 1/96 costs several hundred dollars. See the Mantua or Corel wood kits for comparison.
The history of the original ship is well known and documented. Builders should take note that the ship was already old by the time she fought at Trafalgar and has been modified extensively throughout her history appearing differently at different battles. The kit documentation states the kit as Victory appeared at Trafalgar on October 21st, 1805. The kit is very close to how Victory appeared at the battle and can be built straight from the box into a masterpiece.
The actual ship is under renovation which will restore her to her Trafalgar appearance by 2005, the 200th anniversary of the battle. At this writing, her current rig and details are accurate to her appearance after Trafalgar, circa 1812.
The only inaccuracy worth mentioning is how Heller advises the modeler to paint the ship. Modelers should check other sources to determine a more accurate color scheme. The official H.M.S. Victory website (http://www.hms-victory.com/modelmakers.htm) contains excellent color scheme notes for the modeler regarding how Victory appeared at Trafalgar. The most obvious kit error is the location of the yellow-ochre stripes which roughly correspond to the three gun decks. Trafalgar-era paintings of the ship and others show yellow-ochre to be more buff than yellow. The real ship's boats are also painted differently than the simplistic style of those in the kit.
Two great sources for painting other than the official website are the books "Epic Sea Battles" by William Koenig (ISBN 0 7064 0445 9) which shows a beautiful two page print of Victory on pages 44-45, and "The 100-gun Ship Victory" by John McKay (ISBN 0 87021-890-5) includes exhaustive detailed drawings.
I find that a kit of this scale and complexity is never really done, especially since more information about the actual ship is being discovered and published regularly. There is always some detail to accurize or improve! And since the fun is building the model, a kit like this is sure to provide a long time of enjoyment.
In summary, this kit is for the ambitious builder who truly desires a large, museum-quality model. The one word which best describes this kit is "magnificent". (SLC)
GOOD. Very good detail overall. There are some minor fit problems at the bow and deck area. Luckily we have two scales of this ship to provide escorts for all those German Admirals out there. With ingenuity and determination you have endless options with this ship, just like you do with Airfix's Narvik DD (only larger scale) Great for building the numerous variants of this class ship. For details refer to Airfix 1/600 scale Narvik. The only difference is the scale of parts. Instead of 1/700 use 1/400 from WEM.
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: John Clements reviewed the Airfix Kriegsmarine re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
GOOD. The kit captures the lines of the original very well. As usual with Heller, there is quite a lot of fine detail in some places, whilst in others it is missing. The anti-aircraft armament, range-finders and radars are poor but reflect the age of the kit. These can be replaced with PE. New are 4 single AA weapons which are presumably 37mm or 40mm singles. Only 2 are referred to in the instructions, and they are best replaced anyway.
Variants catered for are the standard as built version with either a single or twin forward turret, Z31 with the single 105mm forward as in 1945, those with a second radar carried in the searchlight position, and those with four twin 20mm fitted forward in their 'Barbara' fit. The suggested schemes show Z31 in 1945 in overall light grey, with one 150 mm turret forward, and the four 20mm twins. This is clearly a mistake as she should have the 105mm turret and the second radar. The second version is 'Z32/Z33' shown in standard fit (but with second radar, which I believe was not fitted on Z32) with the inverted V medium and darker grey stripes (where the stripes converge on the gap between the two funnels and reach to the waterline) shown in photographs of these ships, and the third version is Z37, also with standard weapons but second radar, and with a similar converging stripe pattern that curves up from the waterline at each end. The camouflage is corroborated, but I doubt the second radar was ever fitted as, like Z32, she did not serve in the Baltic and was out of action by mid-44.
Verdict: Good kit, good attempt to improve the original but confused colour and fit schemes. Plenty of scope for variants and detailing. Incorrectly black boot topping decals are provided, and a set of numbers to customise the name plaque. (JRC), review dated 15 October, 2005
Editor's Note: This kit is presumably the same as, or at least closely related to, Heller's Marceau kit, since Marceau and Z-31 were actually the same ship. (DRW)
Hi Mold is another resin department of SkyWave.
They also have another line of resin ship kits, called Waveline.
Portrays the ship before her full-flight deck refit.
Full Hull special.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
FAIR.
Kit Parts: all resin cast model with turned brass main battery gun barrels. One piece highly detailed hull with several large, nasty pour plug stubs along one side. The remaining pieces, all cast in the same weird light green resin were all on sprues similar to an injection molded kit and as a consequence of this technique each part had lots of flash and many had several attachment points. They were all very difficult to clean up without damaging the part. On the kit that I bought and built I found more than a few of these parts to be unusable, run, don't walk, to your hobby supplier and get the Tom's photo-etch fret #720 because you are really going to need it. While you're there, don't forget to pick up various dimensions of brass rod or tubing ‘cause your going to need them too. You will be throwing away the resin legs of the fore and main masts so you'll have plenty of use for your brass rod. Although the hull and deck were nicely detailed this model cannot compare to previously issued kits in this series (see my remarks on Hi Mold #041 USS California).
Directions:: multipage format similar to those of the California kit.
Packaging: same as California kit.
Build Notes: this model is not at all similar to previous kits by Hi Mold, it is frustrating with lots of flash, malformed parts, hard to get rid of pour stubs and needs to have too many parts substituted from other sources.
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: multimedia kit with most parts in light gray resin but also includes brass rod, decals, brass turned main battery gun barrels, white metal castings, plastic sheet for some platforms and a stainless photo-etch sheet which consists of radar equipment, cage masts, aft crane, boat cranes, and boat racks. Hull is a one piece casting up to the main deck that is very detailed. All resin parts are cleanly cast with very little cleanup needed to go ahead with construction. Cast metal parts require a bit more cleanup but not anything more difficult than a typical injection molded kit. One odd note, even though the kit includes a pe fret both catapults are cast somewhat clumsily in metal. You will probably want to replace them with pe although I did not do so myself. There are no aircraft with the kit. Otherwise, everything you need to complete this kit is provided.
Directions:: 6 pages of densely printed Japanese. Pages 1 & 2 consist of various admonitions in Japanese (?), parts lists, pictographic parts lists and illustrations with measurements of parts you will need to fabricate from the provided plastic and brass stock. Any modeler with a little experience should have no trouble here. Pages 3-5 contain exploded view assembly instructions in a suggested sequence to assist in the building of the model. Page 6 supplies very nice line drawings of side and overhead views and suggestions for the demarcation point of the MS-1 camouflage scheme colors, also basic statistics on the ship.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with photo of completed model as box art. Parts separated into small baggies and then taped to the bottom of the box to minimize the potential for damage in shipping and storage.
Build Notes: Construction is pretty straightforward, almost like a very easy injection molded kit except for two things; first, the stainless pe fret is just a bit hard to work with if you are used to softer brass pe, but you will be thankful for it when you go to assemble the racks/supports for the ships boats. Second, difficulty arises in painting this ship. The resin used is very glossy, almost slick and tends to cause fisheye effects in acrylic paints even after scrubbing with various cleaners and solvents. I had no problem with oil based paints painting other ships of the class right out of the box.
Anyone used to working with 1/700 kits will love building this one. The finished model looks so real it is astounding.
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
OOB: VERY GOOD: Depicts her in as-built outfit, with two forward twin turrets and no Exocet. If you want to build her or her sisters in later fit, you'll need to steal parts from WEM sets and/or buy the Skywave E-4 set, although the latter's Exocets are too big. My model is well-cast, with few, if any, air bubbles. Their casting technique also leaves only small pieces of "sprue" instead of big chunks to sand off, and the smaller parts are in either resin or white metal. Unfortunately, there are no PE parts, so the Seaslug launcher and radars are solid masses of metal. WEM photo-etch is a must to replace the radars and add helo deck safety netting and ladders. The Seaslug launcher? On that, you're stuck. (JP)
EXCELLENT. The second kit is the Hi Mold (Pit Road) Fuso. This represents Fuso in 1941, and the kit is very similar to the elegant Nagato kit which came out a couple of years ago. (I've built that kit, pictures were posted on Warship about a year ago.) The hull has excellent detail, but the stern is warped, and will require hot water treatment to straighten it. It is waterline of course, and in comparison to the old Aoshima kit, it has dramatically less freeboard. When I first looked at it, it looked so low in the water that I thought it could not be right, so I pulled out my copy of the Anatomy book on Fuso. Either the kit and the book came from the same original source, or the kit builder used the book, because the drawings in the book match the hull (and its waterline position) in the kit. From the book, it looks like the ship originally had more freeboard, but as that huge pagoda and other things were added, it seemed to ride lower in the water. I haven't prepared all the parts and dry fit them, but from the looks of the drawings on the instructions, I think the kit will get that unmistakeable profile of the pagoda just right. The pagoda components, the funnel and the main battery turrets are the remaining resin parts, and they are very well done. They are done from three dimensional molds, and have great detail both top and bottom. Turned metal barrels are provided for the main battery, a very nice touch. There is a small packet of white metal "bits" for some of the smaller parts, together with three injected styrene Skywave IJN weapons sprues. Brass rod is included for the masts and yards, plus a decal sheet with flags and aircraft markings. There is no photoetched fret included, but one is apparently available separately. Pacific Front has this on order. It is my understanding that this will be Fuso specific parts, and a generic fret will still be required.
The instructions are entirely in Japanese, but have very well drawn exploded views showing where all the parts go. This again was similar to the Nagato kit, and I eventually mastered those. One worrisome thing was small piece of paper covered with Japanese writing which fell out of the instruction sheet. I'm guessing this is describing some sort of last minute correction, but who knows...
This is a very good, and very expensive kit. I have no doubt it will build up to look just as good as the Nagato, and be dramatically better than the old Aoshima kit.
(JK) review dated 13 June 2000.
Portrays the ship before her full-flight deck refit.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT. Please see my remarks for Hi Mold #041 USS California as they would be the same for this kit. Slight differences of this kit from her sister ship(s) have been accommodated but are hardly noticeable. (WJS)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. The High Mold Nagato is an outstanding, but expensive kit. It is far superior to the old Aoshima kit of the same ship ... It is a multimedia kit. The hull, superstructure, funnels, etc are cast resin. For the smaller pieces and weapons, several Skywave injected styrene IJN weapons sprues are included. These are augmented by a small pack of excellent white metal parts. Brass rod is included for the masts. You will need some good additional references to get the masts right. No photoetched parts are provided, the search light tower is resin, and the catapault, crane, etc are white metal. When I built the kit, I used GMM IJN battleship parts to good advantage. If you are going to spend the money for this kit, spend a little more for the photoetched parts. The instructions are entirely in Japanese, but the exploded parts diagrams are good enough to build the model with a little study. The kit built up wonderfully well. Particularly noteworthy was the quality of the pagoda foremast, which was completely inadequate on the old Aoshima kit.
In summary, this is a beautiful kit, which builds up to a great looking and accurate model. Since its release, Aoshima have released a newer molding of the Nagato. I have not seen this kit, but reports are it is also excellent. Before I invested the money in this kit, I would check out the new Aoshima kit and make an informed price/value decision.
(JK), review dated 17 June 2000.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin model that comes with a lot of cast metal parts. The hull is a one piece casting that is just crammed with exquisite detail. It always amazes me to see such fine work done in this hobby. The other resin pieces are also finely detailed with minimal prep needed to assemble the model. Cast metal pieces will need more work before they can be used but no more so than the average injection molded kit. Brass rod and plastic sheet are also included to fabricate masts, spars and platforms. There is also a set of decals with national ensigns included. Be aware that Hi Mold uses a very slick resin for their castings and that this may cause fisheye effects in acrylic paints. Test your paints after thoroughly cleaning the parts.
Directions:: very thorough assembly diagrams showing all subassemblies and the master assembly in exploded view. Painting is also covered using a diagram showing a camouflage scheme using Gunze Sangyo paint numbers.
Packaging: sturdy well marked cardboard box, all parts wrapped in baggies, hull in bubble wrap and all materials taped down to the bottom of the box.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT. Please see my remarks for Hi Mold #041 USS California as they would be the same for this kit. Slight differences of this kit from her sister ship(s) have been accommodated but are hardly noticeable. (WJS)
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT. Please see my remarks for Hi Mold #041 USS California as they would be the same for this kit. Slight differences of this kit from her sister ship(s) have been accommodated but are hardly noticeable. (WJS)
Their web page.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a 2009 re-issue of the Banner Arizona.
Editor's Note: See notes under Los Angeles-class The real Greeneville has the propulsor and other features of the 688i class. I don't know if the kit reflects that.
Editor's Note: See notes under Spruance-class.
Editor's Note: NATO code-name Oscar II.
Editor's Note: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
EXCELLENT. This small submarine is the Chinese version of the Soviet Project 633 (Romeo) class as built for the People's Liberation Army Navy (PLAN) in the 1960s-70s. The hull ts a two-piece affair split horizontally just below the waterline with a separate conning tower, masts (with raised or lowered sensors), and single piece dive plane assembly. Parts fit well, assembling cleanly in just a few minutes. To call this kit simple would be an understatement; excluding the stand and alternate masts, the model consists of a mere five parts! Although apparently designed for quick building, it is nevertheless packed with minute, accurate detail. The multitude of drain vents on the hull and deck, torpedo doors, hatches, sensors, and other assorted bits are beautifully depicted. Even the connectors on the aft dive planes aft are represented in scale - very impressive. This is some of the smallest, sharpest casting I've ever seen on an injection molded plastic model. The kit comes with decals for sub hull number 299 and extra numbers so you can build any of the other Chinese Type 33s (hull numbers 249-60, 268-80, 286-7, 291-304, 343-349, 351, and 355). It also comes with a prepainted stand with "1/700 SCALE PLA NAVY TYPE 33 CLASS" in white lettering already printed on it;a nice touch. This superb little model is the only Hobby Boss kit I've built thus far, but if they are all like this we have much to look forward to!
(TR) Review dated December 2008.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ticonderoga-class
Editor's Note: See notes under Spruance-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Los Angeles-class
Editor's Note: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
Editor's Note: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as:
Editor's Note: See notes under Ticonderoga-class
They are all in 1/700.
Initial list provided by Uwe Besken (besken@gmx.de) (JP)
Check out their web page.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
OK. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin model with no photo etch. All parts are molded in yellow/tan resin. One piece hull molded up to main deck includes deck planking, some splinter shields (admirably thin) and some anchor details. Sides of hull are plain. All other parts are cast on wafers including the main battery gun barrels which are flat cast and very difficult to remove without damaging them. Most of the remaining pieces are small and not highly detailed. They are all difficult to get off of the wafers and the weapons, especially are covered in flash. You will need metal rod or tubing for masts, yards and davits. Rigging sketch is rudimentary. You will need a good set of plans to complete this ship correctly.
Directions:: include the usual line drawings of side and overhead views, exploded view assembly diagram, parts inventory and a supplementary sheet showing the fabrication of the masts and yards. Better than usual.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper box top with grainy photo of the real ship as box art. Bottom is sturdy cardboard. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin kit except for main battery gun barrels which are brass, a big plus. One piece hull is cleanly cast and has nicely detailed splinter shields incorporated into the deck. All other parts cast on wafers repeating the method used on all HP kits I'm familiar with. Superior detail to earlier offerings but the wafer/flash problem persists. Much of the delicate detail and small parts are easily broken while trying to remove and trim them. To avoid disappointment with the finished product I recommend that the modeler be forearmed with Skywave USN Weapons sets before working on this kit or any other HP USN kit. Also have on hand brass rod and a good pe set. Main battery turrets don't have much detail but the various superstructure parts have much more detail than earlier subjects. Also, some help is offered with locater points on the various decks to assist in assembly, another improvement.
Directions:: 4 pages consisting of a one page parts list, one page of line drawings of side and overhead views and two pages of exploded view assembly drawings that are sufficient to build the kit with the parts supplied.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Includes three B-17s, three P-47s, three Me-163s and three Me-262s.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916-1918. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. See notes under Baden-class
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944-1945.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1916
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1932
Represents ship in 1939.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943.
GOOD. (based on In Box Review)
Note: If my minimal German language skills haven't failed me, I believe the kit contents will produce the ship in its 1902 fit. Kudos to H-P for producing a kit of an obscure subject.
Kit Parts: This is one of H-Ps newer offerings and the parts reflect changes from earlier kits that are for the better. This is an all resin kit with turned brass main battery gun barrels (which are quite nice and quite tiny!). There is also included a nice flag sheet. The resin is the usual yellow. The one piece hull is beautifully cast with incredibly thin superstructure incorporated. Planking is over scale and details such as coal ports, etc. missing but still very nice (almost nobody else includes those things so let's not be too hard on H-P for the coal ports). Consistent with H-Ps usual practice all other parts are cast on resin wafers. This makes removing delicate small parts very difficult and also creates quite a bit of flash to deal with. Thankfully the resin wafers are thinner than usual making that task a bit less odious. Ship’s boats are better detailed than many other H-P Kits but the secondary battery and deck guns will be extremely difficult to remove from the flash surrounding them. I did not note any miscast or malformed parts at all. You will need brass rod or tubing for the masts and yards as well as some plastic stock to detail other parts.
Directions:: H-Ps newer offerings seem to be much better with the directions and supplements. Page 1 is a half sheet photocopy of a photograph of the ship taken from a point slightly aft of port. Page 2 is a repeat photo on a full size sheet along with a ship’s history and statistics, text all in German. Page 3 consists of large drawings of the ship’s starboard side and an overhead drawing. Page 4 is a large exploded view diagram showing the parts placement in the assembly process. Although no sequence is called out it is not necessary. Page 5 is a color sheet with side and overhead views along with painting instructions in German. Page 6 consists of drawings and photographs of the ship’s layout in 1918 with accompanying German text. Page 7 contains an alternative paint scheme with drawings and text in German. Page 8 details the fit of the various ship's boats with supplementary text in German. Page 9 is a line drawing/parts list for inventory purposes.
Packaging: flimsy folded paper lid with a reproduction of a painting of the ship in colors earlier than the kit contents (I think so at any rate). This lid is fitted over a heavy recycled cardboard box. All parts are bagged and slipped into little mini bubble wrap sacks. The enormous number of pages of directions are then folded into the box insuring no parts movement.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin kit no photo-etch or metal parts included. All parts cast in yellow/tan resin. Very nice, detailed single piece hull with no obvious defects. Main battery gun barrels cast with the turrets on wafers, flashy and hard to remove without breaking, a fact acknowledged by the inclusion of spares. Nicely cast AA platforms and decks with good detail but once again difficult to remove from the wafers. Superstructure parts much more detailed than earlier offerings from HP and cast on thinner wafers making them easier to remove. AA battery is just hopelessly covered in flash and not worth working with. Brass rod will be needed for mast and yard fabrication and photo-etch is a necessity as well for the radar cranes and catapults. Keep on buying those Skywave USN Weapons sets!
Directions:: an incredible multipage set of illustrations and color plates showing detailed drawings of all structures and assemblies, these are the best directions I have ever seen from HP!
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1916.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with the exception of the main battery gun barrels which are done in turned brass. The light yellow-tan resin parts have lots of detail and in many instances are marvelously thin (i.e. splinter shields). The hull is one piece with very nice detail (although the torpedo bulge seems too thick to me). All other parts are cast on none too thin wafers and are very difficult to remove without damage, especially the crane parts, secondary battery and even more so the AA battery. It would be a lot less frustrating to the builder to simply buy or scrounge up the whole AA battery from somewhere else (like a Skywave weapons set or two). An odd thing about this kit is that the unique cage mast is cast as a solid piece of resin. You will have to buy a PE set for this ship to do it justice so while you're at it buy some brass rod too for the masts and yards. (Tom's Modelworks set #720 will do nicely for the PE).
Directions:: 5 single sided sheets. Page 1 contains gorgeous, highly detailed 1/700 scale line drawings of side and overhead views of the ship, Page 2 is an exploded view of the entire assembly process that is somewhat confusing, no sequence offered. Page 3 is a nice color plate of the disruptive camouflage scheme used in 1944 and shows both side views. Page 4 is a color overhead view of the camouflage scheme. Page 5 is a parts list.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with a photo of the actual ship on the box top as the box art. All parts bagged and then bubble wrapped. Every effort was made to avoid damage in shipping. Nonetheless, my example suffered a number of broken splinter shields. Care must be taken when working with these extremely thin parts and even removing them from the wafers and packaging. NOTE: This kit is a vast improvement over earlier offerings from this company. However, you will need the skills of a surgeon to remove most of the small parts from the flash and the wafers they are prisoners in. Given the high cost of this kit the lack of basic PE (especially the cage mast) and the difficulty in utilizing the AA battery is very frustrating. This is not for the beginner!
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1912.
5 Pieces. Represents ships from 1939-1945
5 Sections
2 Sections.
2 Sections.
2 Sections.
Ex-British. Represents ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1907.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
GOOD. Nice kit in all but planking and hull windows. Planking is too rough by modern standards. Windows seem to be drilled at a glance and rather resemble shelled holes. You will need to putty and redrill a dozen of them.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944/45
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1934.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
Portrays the ship in 1914.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with the addition of brass main battery gun barrels. Resin parts are cast in yellow/tan resin. The hull is a one piece casting with lots of detail incorporated. There is NO deck planking scribed on the deck areas. All other parts are cast on thin wafers easier to remove than many other HP kits I have seen. Simplified superstructure limits the amount of work necessary to rescue the small number of parts from the flash that is all over them. The cranes and masts will be very difficult to work with so have some brass rod around to help fabricate these parts.
Directions:: one page of side and overhead view line drawings, one page parts list and one page exploded view assembly diagram. Given the simplified nature of the ship the directions should be adequate except for the cranes, boat equipment and rigging. Get some plans for that.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941-1945.
Includes BV-138.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Ex-British. Represents ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1909.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1914.
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1914. See notes under Moltke-class
Editor's Note: Represents the 1942 design.
Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939.
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1918. See notes under König-class
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1912.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1914.
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939.
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. See notes under Derfflinger-class
Editor's Note: Represents ship from 1941-1945.
Editor's Note: Represents ship from 1941-1945. (Ed.)
FAIR. Seems to represent HMS Eggesford during the later part of the war. The instructions include plans from an old Airfix magazine article which does not tie up with the model. Much the same comments apply as for HMS Lance. Some effort effort has been made to make building easier with construction holes in the hull. With work (and money) it builds into a good model and is your only option in this scale. (GS)
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945
OK. Kit Parts, Directions, Packaging and Build Notes, see: HP USS Mississippi as the kits are almost the same.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1909
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1909
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1909.
Variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: Ex-"Littorio" Represents ship in 1942 . See notes under Vittorio Veneto-class.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1938
FAIR (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with the addition of brass main battery gun barrels. Resin parts are cast in yellow/tan resin. The hull is a one piece casting with lots of detail incorporated. My kit had a really big nasty bubble in the resin on the port side midship. There is NO deck planking scribed on the deck areas (which there shouldn't have been any way, however there is no pattern of plating or anything else on the deck so check references on this). All other parts are cast on the usual wafers which make parts removal tedious. Simplified superstructure limits the amount of work necessary to rescue the small number of parts from the flash that is all over them, the small deck guns are probably hopelessly marooned in the flash. The cranes and masts will be very difficult to work with so have some brass rod and evergreen plastic stock around to help fabricate these parts. The main battery turrets are essentially featureless, so you will need to do some research here too. The ship's boats, a very prominent feature will be tough to rescue from the wafers and flash that are present on my kit.
Directions:: one page of side and overhead view line drawings, one page parts list and one page exploded view assembly diagram. Given the simplified nature of the ship and the small number of parts included, the directions should be adequate except for the cranes, boat equipment and rigging. You will need to obtain some plans for that.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1917
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941-1944
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941-1943
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship as Kaiten Carrier in 1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942/43
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1918. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following:
GOOD. Same comments as of Emden. Inferior to Samek kit.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940 For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1918. See notes under König-class
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943. (Ed.)
FAIR. Overall, I think its a decent kit -- not the top of the line by today's standards -- but quite good nonetheless, and a reasonable value for the money at 55 DM. But due to the delicacy of the casting, it's not for beginners.
The hull is very cleanly cast, but VERY basic. It has razor sharp lines, is very symmetrical, with petite portholes, but almost no detail on the deck surfaces AT ALL. It measures out length and beamwise almost perfectly to scale, but the bow has a bit too much of a curve to it (making it look almost like a clipper bow) while the stern is slightly too oval in shape (as seen from above). Both problems are easily fixed though. The stern should be rounded off a bit, which will make the hull a tad short by maybe a few hundreds of an inch -- nothing to really worry about. The breakwater is too fine; should be heavier. Some details will need to be added, using WEM Pro parts (maybe new bollards, and reels and winches for the deck). The anchor chain and anchor are molded onto the hull and are very crude and should be replaced by PE (the kit does not include PE, but the WEM O class fret will be of great help here).
Deckhouses and bridge are cast separately, and are magnificent, and feature sharp, crips edges, portholes, doors, and very fine, paper thin bulkheads. In shape, size, and proportion, they match up well with my references. The bridge is very nicely done, with very, very fine internal bulkheads. The main guns are gemlike, but misshapen. They are almost perfectly hexagonal in shape; in fact, they should be more elongated from front to rear (see the nice profile and plan views included with the kit). If you are not finicky, they are probably acceptable. I would replace the 20mm and 4" HA gun though; they are quite crude and I don't know how you remove these from the carrier film without damaging them (they are cast in relief!). Again, use the appropriate WEM parts. Many other small, fine parts will be hard to remove. The parts are cast onto a carrier film which sometimes gets a bit thicker toward the edges. Sanding the carrier film to a constant thickness before removing parts is probably advisable. This should not be too hard to accomplish though.
Instructions are very basic but adequate.
Overall, the kit features brilliant quality casting (like Samek), but the hull needs a little detailing, the main gun turrets are not exactly the right shape, and some of the smaller parts will probably be damaged if you try removing them from the carrier film. A good value for the money, but probably not for a beginner due to the delicate nature of many of the castings.
Reference plans used include: the very nice plan and profile drawings of HMS Laforey included in the kit (source unknown), and as fitted plans for HMS Milne, in Edgar J. March, "British Destroyers: A History of Development, 1892-1953" (London: Seeley Service & Co. Ltd., 1966), plans 43A/B. (MAE)
Note: this model is not of Laforey as it does not have the extra long after deckhouse of a destroyer leader. (GS)
FAIR. Represents one of the 4 AA destroyers of the L class. An all resin kit with the a good set of plans as part of the instructions. Like other HP models the superstructure is made up of a number of simple castings which can produce a very good representation. However there are no location holes etc. so everything has to be very carefully placed. Virtually everything else can be discarded and replaced with WEM components. The 4" guns are molded with a 1mm fillet through the top of the turrets, the boats are not symmetric, the carley floats are half deflated, etc. However, it does make into a very nice model. (GS)
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1970.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1938.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944-45
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR.
Kit Parts: resin kit in the usual yellow. One piece hull incorporating most of the superstructure with fair to good detail. Deck planking is over scale but most are. Ships boats are well detailed, if hard to remove from the inevitable casting wafers. Prominent boat cranes are hopeless blobs of resin and will have to be fabricated from scratch. Parts fit fair to good with some fiddling about to get it right. You will need brass rod or tubing and plastic stock to complete this model. I used wire rod for the secondary battery but I was able to use the deck guns provided.
Directions: and Packaging: the usual from H-P. These ship models have a limited number of parts and it isn't too hard to figure out where to put them. However, these ships in actuality were crammed with deck hardware and clouds of rigging. If you really want to reproduce this you will need an extensive set of plans. I would recommend that you save that kind of effort for a different kit ( and for me a larger scale, rigging these things is the work of tiny, crazy spiders).
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. See notes under Derfflinger-class
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1938/39
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1918
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Editor's Note: Represents ship 1943-1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship 1941/42
Set of 5.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1918. See notes under König-class
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1916
Editor's Note: Represents ship 1941/45
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
OK.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo-etch or metal parts. A promising beginning is found in the one piece hull which has nice fine lines for deck planking, however, its all downhill from there. While the splinter shields are pleasingly thin for the gun mounts and decks they are almost impossible to remove from the thick wafers they are cast on without damaging them. The multitude of superstructure parts are devoid of detail. You will NEED a detailed set of plans to any kind of detail to these smooth surfaced parts. Main battery guns are cast separately from the turrets (also devoid of detail) and are very tough to get off their wafer. The AA battery is so covered with flash and firmly attached to its wafers as to be virtually impossible to remove, never mind remove without damage. Having gone through this torture I can recommend most strongly that you stock up on Skywave USN Weapons sets, brass rod, some turned brass main battery barrels and a good set of photo-etch for the cranes, radar, etc., otherwise you will come out with something very toy-like.
Directions:: one page of text in German admonishing you to do something or other, one page of overhead and side view line drawings, another larger page of the same drawings, two different sized pages of the same exploded view assembly drawings. While of a nice big size as a guide to assembling this ship it isn't very helpful. Placement of the various parts on the superstructure are problematic, time to go back to your set of plans.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
Build Notes: take the advice above, get the 3rd party products mentioned before even starting this kit. Also gather as many photos, plans and line drawings as possible to help with locating and detailing the various bits of this kit. This is one of HPs earlier offerings and cannot compare to the current state of the art in resin ship models. As I write this (2/06) it is the only game in town but that may change in the future.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably, New Mexico, Idaho, and are similar.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1938
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1913. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1916
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944/45
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
OK. Kit Parts, Directions, Packaging and Build Notes, see: HP USS Mississippi as the kits are almost the same.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin kit with no photo-etch or metal parts. All parts cast in a yellow/tan resin. One piece hull is cleanly cast with minor flash at the waterline, but contains excellent surface detail, especially the deck and incorporated splinter shields. Careful handling of the hull casting is necessary to preserve all this delicate detail. Superstructure parts are nicely detailed as well. All parts are cast on the usual wafers. Decks and gun tubs appear to be easier to remove than usual for this maker, however, the gun barrels and AA battery are more problematic. As usual with an HP kit you would be well advised to get your AA battery out of a Skywave USN Weapons set or two. Also plan on picking up brass rod and a good photo-etch set for cranes, etc. With these additions you will be able to create a terrific model of this ship.
Directions:: 7 pages consisting of a one page parts list, one page of German text saying (?), remaining pages devoted to line drawings of side and overhead views and exploded view assembly diagrams that are better than the usual HP offering.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin kit with no photo-etch or metal parts. All parts are cast in a yellow/tan resin. Detailed single piece hull with no obvious defects. Main battery gun barrels separately cast from the turrets on wafers as are all other parts. Superstructure parts have some surface detail, unlike earlier offerings from HP but once again the parts are surrounded by flash and hard to remove from their casting wafers without damaging them. The AA battery is especially frustrating and should simply be replaced with a Skywave USN Weapons set or two. Also plan on buying a good PE set for cranes, catapults and radar and some brass rod or tubing for masts and spars.
Directions:: 5 pages consisting of a parts list, a page of text in German, 2 pages of line drawings, side and overhead and 2 pages of exploded view assembly diagrams that are a bit confusing but not insurmountable.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1914
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1917. See notes under Helgoland-class
GOOD. Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging remarks same as for HP#WWI-WL-G-009 SMS Thüringen as it is a re-box of that kit.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. See notes under Helgoland-class and William Swan's review of HP#WWI-WL-G-009 SMS Thüringen.
Editor's Note: Represents ship 1939-1941
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1912
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945
Portrays the ship in 1940.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with the addition of brass main battery gun barrels. Resin parts are cast in yellow/tan resin. The hull is a one piece casting with lots of detail incorporated. There is NO deck planking scribed on the deck areas. All other parts are cast on thin wafers easier to remove than many other HP kits I have seen. AA battery and mast assemblies are hopelessly covered in flash which promises to be a very frustrating removal process which will require the patience of a saint and the skilled fingers of a surgeon to remove these parts without causing damage. Ships boats will be very difficult to remove without damage to their bottoms as well. Mast assemblies will be very difficult to assemble and care will have to be taken to do it right. I am not aware of any dedicated PE sets for this ship so you will have to work with what you have.
Directions:: one written sheet in German, no painting instructions, there are line drawings and exploded view assembly diagrams. Diagrams and drawings are just sufficient to complete the kit as is, however, you will need good plans or more detailed drawings to get the masts and cranes right on this model.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit, no photo etch is included. All parts are cast in yellow/tan resin. One piece hull incorporates lower superstructure and is a highly detailed, clean casting that appears to be flawless. All other parts are well detailed but cast on resin wafers with lots of flash. The weapons will be particularly difficult to remove from the flash and wafers without damaging them. The main battery barrels should be replaced with after market items and the prominent cranes which are solid cast definitely need to be replaced with PE ones. Masts are provided in resin but should be replaced with metal tubing or rod fabrications of your own.
Directions:: better than the usual with HP kits. Parts inventory, diagrams for fabricating the masts, exploded view assembly diagrams, line drawings and color paint guide make these directions superior to most other HP kits I have seen.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Note:Represents ship in 1942
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes:Represents ship in 1941
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note:Represents ship in 1943-45
Editor's Note:Represents ship in 1943
FINE. A few weeks ago I was browsing through the NNT web site when I came across a new release by HP Models, a 1/700 scale R class Battleship, the Royal Oak 1939. I e-mailed Nadja and Norbet at NNT with a request to inform me as to accuracy and detail before I ordered. As has been the case in the past, I was not misinformed. The kits I had ordered arrived two days ago, so I have had time to look them over. Once again a big thanks to NNT for their service, advice and prompt help.
The kit of the Royal Oak, arrived undamaged, well packed in a stronger cardboard box then has been the case with earlier HP Models. Hull and parts are in plastic bags and bubble wrap. The hull looks accurate but is about 2mm too short, this I can live with. Beam is right on. Detail is good, with the unusual blister that this ship had well captured and executed. The gun turrets and superstructure looks accurate. A small aircraft is included.
Instructions come on a A4 sheet, a total of 8 sheets, a plan, an assembly, colour guide in colour, two detail break up of superstructure and fittings, a parts list, and also two sheets of A3 size paper with the plan and assembly instructions duplicated. At this point I think I should say that it looks like the same details as the Profile Morski #25 of the Royal Oak.
I look forward to building this model and would not hesitate to say that it was worth the money I paid and seems to be an accurate model. After all, it is the first of the R class in 1/700.I would rate this model as fair, the only drawback being that there is no photo-etch, but a White Ensign Models set of either the "Warspite" or "WW1 Battleship" should solve this. I used the Battleships of WW2, by M.J. Whitley, Profile Morski # 25 and Battleships & Battlecruisers by Tony Gibbons as guides.
I had also ordered the HP Models 1/700 scale Titanic. This I hope to do as the Olympic, most probably as a troop ship. This I will review at a later stage, once I have looked it over in detail. (PV), review dated 23 October 2001.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
4 pieces
Editor's Note: Represents vessels from 1939-1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1914
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944 For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents the ship in 1944. For comparison, check out these other New Orleans class resin kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1909
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945
POOR.
Note: this model is supposed to represent the ship late in the war but given the way it was equipped out of the box it was really hard to tell what era it represented.
I'll make this one brief. The usual problems with casting wafers and parts removal added to very poor fit of components and over scale components. If this wasn't bad enough the very prominent cranes were missing. I don't know if my kit was a Montag morgen kit and that others are better, this one was pretty bad. Perhaps this kit has been retooled or something since I bought it, I hope so.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1913
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1925
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940-42
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944/45
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941-1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1916. See also notes under Helgoland-class
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin model with no photo-etch or metal parts. Hull is a nicely detailed one piece casting in yellow/tan resin (as are all other parts). Other parts, while having good detail are cast on flat resin wafers that are difficult to remove without causing damage to the parts. This is especially so with the small deck guns and the main battery turrets and guns which are molded together on a flat wafer with a lot of flash. You will need metal rod or tubing for the masts and spars and a good set of plans to tackle things like the cranes and boat equipment.
Directions:: 3 sheets, one in German text, one of line drawings with side and overhead views and one exploded view assembly diagram that is just adequate to assemble the kit as is. You will need those plans for the cranes, boat equipment and rigging for this ship.
Packaging: well marked box top with a heavy cardboard bottom and a flimsy folded paper top with dark artwork of the ship in action. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize damage.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1912
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1944
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941-1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
5 pieces:
4-piece Set
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943/44
Editor's Note: Represents ship from 1931-1945.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941-1945.
Editor's Note: Represents sub in 1940-41.
Editor's Note: Represents sub in 1945.
Ex-Kirov.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942
Editor's Notes: Represents ship in 1943. This kit has apparently been issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1913
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940
Represents ship in 1943.
For comparison, check out these kits:
OK. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: All resin kit with brass main battery gun barrels, no photo-etch. All parts molded in yellow/tan resin. One piece hull molded up to the main deck, deck planking and anchor chain included on hull casting. Other small parts on deck covered in flash. All other parts are cast on wafers, most hopelessly covered in flash that is hard to remove without damaging the small and or thin parts. Best to have on hand plastic sheet stock for decks and platforms and brass rod or tubing for the fabrication of parts to supplement the kit parts. It wouldn't hurt to get a good set of plans and/or photos on hand to complete this kit.
Directions:: consist of a color plate side view of the ship, another page of line drawings, side and overhead views, one sheet parts inventory and one exploded view assembly diagram. Parts placement is vague at best and downright confusing at worst.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a drawing of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1939
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1933
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1942.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: All resin kit with the addition of brass barrels for the main battery. All parts cast in yellow/tan resin. One piece hull is beautifully detailed with fabulous thin castings of incorporated splinter shields for the deck AA battery. Lots of other great deck details also are included. Turrets, platforms and superstructure parts are very nicely done with good surface detail. AA battery and secondary battery gun barrels as well as equipment like cranes and masts suffer from being cast on wafers with a lot of flash. Stock up on Skywave USN Weapons sets again as well as brass rod and a good PE set. In spite of having to go out and buy these additions a really first rate model of this subject can be created from this kit.
Directions:: all text in German, parts list/diagram, painting instructions, side and overhead view line drawings and exploded view assembly diagrams create instructions adequate to the task of building this model.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as box art. All parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap to minimize transport damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Represents ship 1941/42
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1943
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1945
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1941
Represents ship in 1940
Started model retail shop in 1948 by Eiichi Imai at Shimizu City, Shizuoka. Released wooden model of "Tokyo Tower" in 1957. It was first step for them as kit manufacture. In October of next year, released Japanese cartoon character kit in injection moulded form. With the range of cartoon characters, motor driven IJN ship, aircraft or AFV kits were also released.
Once got a great success with "Thunderbirds" ranges in late 1960s, but experienced their first bankruptcy with business failure of "Captain Scarlet", their second range from Gerry Anderson's Super Marionation TV program. (Their factory and many of tools were transferred to Bandai, and it was their first step as kit manufacture.)
Re-started business, and main ranges were again cartoon characters. Also started sailing ship kits, both of injection moulded and wooden kits. None of sailing ship kits manufactures got a renown in both of plastic and wooden kits except Imai.
Again experienced business crisis twice in 1980s. Since then, they managed to continue business through 1990s, but finally stopped business in April 2002. This time, most of tools were transferred to Aoshima.
Special thanks to Mr. Shoichi Kinushima, monthly contributor to "Model Art" magazine for his help with the earlier history of Imai. (MK)
VERY GOOD.
This kit represents a typical sleek, fast Mediterranean warship of the 18th century. Rigged with lateen type sails and supplemented with oars or more properly sweeps these highly maneuverable vessels were used by governments and pirates alike. Armed with numerous cannon these delicate ships could inflict major damage on much more powerful opponents given the right conditions and sea states.
Do not confuse this kit with the similar but larger kit from Heller in 1/50 scale.
This kit is an absolute joy to build. If you can find one buy it as it is a great deal of fun. The parts are highly detailed with a more subtle wood grain effect than the Heller kits, they fit well and those parts which would correspond to the ships decoration are beautifully engraved. There are no stupid mistakes or shortcuts taken with the decks or hull pieces. There are no misformed parts and no poorly placed seams to deal with. The directions are excellent and include realistic rigging instructions, rare for a plastic kit.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Later re-issued by Monogram, c.1977. (DRW)
GOOD. This is the largest, and best model of the USCGC EAGLE in plastic. It is also the hardest to find- it hasn't been available since the 1980s.
The kit represents the EAGLE as she appeared in the 1980s. It includes the modern pilothouse and boat deck arrangement, and a pair of very nice 26 foot Motor Surf Boats.
The masts and yards on my copy of the kit were reasonably well detailed, but suffered a bit from mold mis-alignment. Cleaning the mold lines up left me with yards with an oval cross section.
The kit does have a few shortcomings. The main deck has engraved lines to represent the planking, but the lines only run fore and aft-it makes it look as though the decks were planked with single planks that ran the length of the ship. Also, the hull has no plating detail at all. Eagle is made from overlapped, riveted steel plates- the lines and rivets are prominent features of the real ship's hull. Even with these shortcomings, this is the best kit to use to build a model of the present-day Eagle. (WLM), review dated 21 August 2005
Editor's Note: See Bill Michaels' review of the Minicraft re-issue of this kit.
GOOD. Also issued by Minicraft (kit 11306). One of about a dozen international modern sailing ships Imai released in the late 1970s which took part in "Operation Sail" commemorating the U.S. Bicentennial, this was the Chilean navy's contribution. This beautiful ship was used as a floating jail/torture chamber for political prisoners during Augusto Pinochet's military regime during the 1970s.
The kit is not large, but there's a lot in the box, with seven sprues molded in white (upper hull, decks, deck fittings), green (underwater hull and fittings), orange (masts, spars), and a gold plated display stand. In addition, there are two white vacuformed sheets of sails, a spool of black rigging thread, a printed sheet with Chilean, US, and US Bicentennial flags, and a decal with ship's name for the stern. Parts are cleanly molded with little flash, but if you choose the full hull option beware as the two single piece components do not fit perfectly (the lower hull is slightly narrow). Apart from this minor glitch things go together well. I don't have any photos or drawings of the ship besides those provided in the kit so I can't comment on accuracy, but the hull looks graceful and convincing. Surface detail is sparse, mostly limited to raised deck planking, but the effect is good. Assembly is straightforward and logical. One aspect of the kit which I found odd was that the masts are supposed to be attached to the deck before the deck is fitted to the hull in order to facilitate rigging the backstays. As is usual with sailing ships, most of the work is devoted to the masts and rigging. Imai provides clear instructions with a complete rigging diagram, very wlcome indeed for those of us who don't do many of these ships. The color printed painting guide in 1/350 scale was also much appreciated, as were the color photos of the real Esmeralda on the box sides.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
OK. As for Kongo, with small differences in aft superstructure. Also late-war. Motorized. (GH)
OK. Hull nice, deck detailed. Superstructure good, but AA barrels too thick, as are davits, masts. Late war appearance, after conversion to hybrid carrier. Flight deck good. Correct but molded in light AA. Single 25mm too. Hull below WL wrong. Motorized. (GH)
OK. Basically correct structures, but thick deck which means casemates look strange. Molded in light AA. Heavy AA barrels too thick, as are masts. Late war appearance. Light AA not completely correct, but does include correct 25mm single AA. Hull below WL of course inaccurate. Motorized. (GH)
Editor's Note: Hull is said to be 6.25 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 5 inches long. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) An exquisite looking kit in the box. Well detailed, but in this scale, the wood grain may be a bit over-done. Not having any plans available at the time, I had nothing to scale it against for accuracy. But how many side-paddle wheel warships are there out there? Very few this good-looking. (ARM)
Their address is:
ICM LTD
P.O. Box B59
Kiev, 252001, Ukraine
Check out their web page. Sites in Russian and English.
| Chokai | Grosser Kürfurst | Hood | König | Kniaz Suvorov | Slava | Takao | Type XXIII |
Not in production.
Not in production.
Not in production.
It has been re-issued by
At first glance, I was impressed with the details, but first disappointment came when I found out that the kits are identical. Regarding their price and the fact that the box top art shows KONIG in her 1918 appearance and GROSSER KURFURST with the torpedo nets of the 1914-16 configuration, one could consider this as an "act of hostility". On the other hand, even the centrespread of the building instructions shows GROSSER KURFURST with torpedo nets, and there are also some small markings on the hull sides where the torpedo net spares should be fixed. Further there were rumors that the moulds for the hull of GROSSER KURFURST got damaged. One can, therefore, speculate if this is the reason, but, whatsoever, this would be no excusion.
A closer look on the kit reveals some significant drawbacks. The fitting of parts is only mediocre or even poor at some points. The wooden planking on the main deck and the fo'c'sel and battery deck is shown in the obsolete moulded-on manner while it is engraved on the first deck of the fore superstructure. Unfortunately, this deck was not planked but laid with linoleum.
Also there seemingly was some confusion with the different configuratuions of the ships of this class. The foremast in the kit actually is that of KRONPRINZ in her first fitting.
KONIG in her post-1916 configuration should have a second lookout stand as shown in the centrspread drawing. But then, all the 8,8 cm guns in the fore superstructure were removed.
For GROSSER KURFURST in her 1914 configuration, these guns are correct. But she had a pole mast with a crows nest instead of the tube mast with the heavy gunnery director stand at that time. Also the upper bridge platform was not carried by her.
The only ship you can build out of the box with no major reconstruction seems to be KRONPRINZ as in early 1917 when the torpedo nets were already removed, and the second lookout stand was not yet added to the foremast. You only have to omit both bridge decks above the armored control stand, and there were only two 8,8 cm AA guns on the after superstructure.
The best you can do at the time, however, seems to be waiting until a proper conversion kit is available.
Summing up, these kits are not the ten-strikes we all have expected, and they are not quite what one could expect from that price and from ICM's reputation.But they are new injection moulded models for the "big-scalers", and they are models of very interesting ships - and this is, after all, still a lot. (FP)
Not in production.
Not in production.
EXCELLENT. ICM finally resurfaces years after their WWI battleship releases with this simple kit of the obscure and extremely tiny Type XXIII. This sub was one of the "secret" weapons the Germans produced towards the end of the war in an effort to disrupt Allied shipping. Coastal sub only - even smaller than the modern Type 206. Sail is attached to the hull and bilaterally split. Modest number of pieces, great detail. Decals include post-war GFR and Soviet versions. (DH)
Commander Series Models
551 Wegman Rd.
Rochester, New York 14624
716-247-3104
Their new address is:
Iron Shipwrights
237 Gum Hollow Road
Oak Ridge, TN 37830
1-888-476-6744
Their e-mail is dparis@eznet.net.
Check out their web page.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Note: The model purports to be of the ship in it’s 1916 fit. It appears to be so from the few photos (with dates) that I have been able to find on the internet. I have wanted a model of this ship for years and I jumped on this as soon as it came out. Perhaps I should have waited.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with photo etch, turned brass gun barrels for the main battery, brass rod for masts and yards and an inappropriate decal set from a Flower class corvette. Let’s start out with the hull: it is one massive piece of resin. I had mine short cast as I only do waterline so I cannot describe the bits below the waterline. As for the bits above, the kit consists of yellow resin with the hull and lower superstructure all cast as one. Planking is inscribed in continuous lines with no butt ends or provision for small access hatches. Lots of larger detail is cast into the deck and cast superstructure bits. It would be wonderful if the casting wasn’t so rough. The whole effect is marred by bubbles in the deck hardware that must be fixed, a bit of sloppy molding on the stern that will be very difficult to fix, and the zillions of portholes that MUST be drilled out as they are incompletely cast! You will be sanding and filing this one for days before moving on to assembly and paint.
The stacks and turrets are nicely detailed as are many of the other smaller bits but so much of the remaining parts are covered in spidery flash that it is ton of work to remove. Other parts are incompletely cast. Many of the boats are incompletely cast. The photo etch is not relief etched but competently done. It includes the usual supply of railings, inclined ladders, davits, stack grills, yards, antenna spreaders and platform supports, oddly no vertical ladders are included.
So, the purchaser is well advised to heed the words of the directions to inventory the parts carefully to check for content and completeness of the parts. ISW will quickly and cheerfully replace anything missing or miscast from their kits but it is imperative for the buyer to do that inventory on purchase.
Directions: Multi-page black and white line drawings with parts inventory sheets. Drawings and sequence suggestions are far superior to the usual directions supplied with an ISW kit. There are even callouts for photo etch placement. Still, they cannot compare to the directions found in current high end injection kits.
Packaging: Typical ISW long white, heavy cardboard box. The hull is wrapped in bubble and small parts are packaged in flexible clear plastic boxes. PE and decals are bagged. The box is the filled with foam peanuts and newspaper. Packing is adequate to prevent shipping damage.
Recommendation: only for the dedicated RN fan with lots of resin experience. Beginners STAY AWAY.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
GOOD. The lower-profile sections of the superstructure are molded with the hull and main deck, leaving you with the "bank building" and the MACKs as the remaining substantial superstructure portions. Aside from some flash, there's no real major problems with this kit. The castings appear clean, with a few small blemishes (mold parting lines, air bubbles) here and there. Again, comprehensive photo-etch is included, as well as an excellent decal sheet that lets you build any of the three units (Albany, Chicago, Columbus). A well-done kit of an unusual class of ships. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898.
GOOD. based on in-box review
Note: The model represents the ship as she appeared in 1921 and is not to be confused with the World War 2 configuration kit as these are totally different kits. This model was originally produced by Tom's Modelworks and is now made by Iron ShipWright. Although originally sold as a two piece hull split at the waterline the model is now sold as a one piece full hull but when I ordered mine from ISW I had mine short cast to leave off most of the hull under the waterline as I was going to cut it off anyway.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a one piece hull incorporating some elements of the superstructure. Included with the resin parts, which are molded for the most part in creamy white or light gray, is a decal sheet of flags and insignia, some white metal parts, brass rod and a photo etched brass set of detail parts. The hull has good detail with finely done planking (no butt ends, all lines are continuous), detail on some the deck hardware is a little soft and a couple of areas on mine had dropouts or bubbles in the moldings requiring repair or replacement. Several areas on the side of the hull had small pinholes and some extraneous hunks of resin that will have to be removed, especially in the area of the bow. Hatches in the deck leading to the lower decks are molded with the covers closed as are the armored doors on the casemented guns. Smaller resin parts have considerable amounts of flash around most of them. While it is not heavy it will require extensive cleanup of each part before it can be used. The same can be said for the white metal parts. Main battery gun barrels are cast in both resin and white metal but I would strongly suggest that the modeler seek out a set of replacement turned brass or aluminum barrels. The photo etch fret is of the older "flat" style. There is no 3D effect to the parts. It includes boat hardware, chocks, ladders, stack grille, platforms, cranes, rails and of course, the cage masts. The brass is very soft and bends easily so care will need to be taken in assembly to avoid damaging or crushing these parts when folding.
I would caution first time resin kit builders to be aware that this kit will require considerable work to clean up the parts but it is not so intricate that the process will be overwhelming. The most complex aspect of ships of this era was probably the rigging of the vessels as their superstructures were fairly simple and there were few, if any, AA guns and all their paraphernalia to worry about.
Directions:: usually the directions from this manufacturer are somewhat perfunctory and basically inadequate, however, in this case a 12 page plan of written instructions accompanied by numerous drawings illustrate the construction and rigging of the ship. That doesn't mean that they are in all cases clear and unambiguous but it is not for lack of trying.
Packaging: The usual heavy white cardboard box with no artwork. Small parts are contained in plastic boxes and/or bags, hull is wrapped in bubble wrap and the box is stuffed with a combination of foam peanuts and crushed newspaper.
(WJS), review dated 13 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1921. Re-issue of Tom's Model Works kit.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in 1941.
GOOD. The (very heavy) model depicts Arky after her final overhaul. The hull casting has all the proper blisters, gun tubs, etc., but you'll have to remove a big pour stub. The resin bilge keels don't fare well in transit or in handling, so you'll probably want to replace those with something more substantial. Give the resin parts a good bath in Fantastik or 409 to remove mold release, as they tend to be a little slick from the bag. Small pieces tend to be held to each other with a thin film of flash, so be prepared to do some clean-up. The resin 40mm and 20mm mount assemblies tend to bend and some have air bubbles, so consider liberating some brass or plastic units from a suitable donor. The gun barrels on mine are mostly warped; since I live in a part of the country that tends to be very humid, I plan on replacing mine with cast metal or turned brass barrels when I build it. Consider replacing the resin masts and propeller shafts with plastic or metal tubing. The kit includes complete photoetch, and it's well done. This kit is currently out of production, so grab it as you can. It's worth the trouble. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942. Includes optional parts for San Diego 1944.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship on 7 December 1941 at Pearl Harbor.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a re-issue of the earlier Gulfstream/BWN kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
EXCELLENT. About the only way we're going to see such an obscure auxiliary kitted, but a very nice kit. Comes in WWII configuration with full complement of 5"/38s, 40mm and 20mm guns, along with a fairly good PBM Mariner. Hull and superstructure are beautifully cast, but some smaller resin parts are prone to breakage, and a few others are short-shot. Comes with a beautiful photoetch sheet. Potentially the basis for any number of conversions -- patrol boat tenders, Coast Guard cutters, survey ships, and command ships -- a kit potentially as versatile as these ships themselves. (JMP)
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Kit claims 1910 fit and appears to approximate that time period.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with photo etch, turned brass gun barrels for the main battery, brass rod (and tubing) for masts and yards and a decal set of flags and ship names. The photo etch is not relief etched but appears to be competently done. The set was originally designed for HMS Dreadnought and has been reproduced for this model. It includes railings, vertical ladders, inclined ladders, funnel grills, davits, platforms, platform supports, bracing, torpedo net hull rails and railing davits. There is also a set of very nice B&D turned brass barrels for the main battery guns. All the rest of the parts are cast in yellow resin. The hull and lower superstructure are cast as one piece with very nice detail, fit and finish being far superior to their Agincourt kit. There is scribed planking detail of the continuous line variety (no butt ends) but in a change of pace for this maker there is also an attempt to represent the coal scuttles in the deck. For the most part it works but quite a few of the castings are slightly incomplete. Again, details like portholes are more completely cast than the Agincourt kit. However, the smaller parts are just like the Agincourt kit. Some are incompletely cast or malformed and most are covered in the spidery flash that seems to bedevil all ISW kits. My kit was also shipped without a number of parts. Once again after performing an inventory I requested the missing and/or malformed parts and was immediately shipped a replacement supply. There is just too much work to make the rest of the parts work to rate this kit better than fair to good. The hull and lower superstructure are very good, actually some of their best work, but the rest is just typical ISW.
Directions: Multi-page black and white line drawings with parts inventory sheets. Drawings and sequence suggestions are far superior to the usual directions supplied with an ISW kit. There are even callouts for photo etch placement. Still, they cannot compare to the directions found in current high end injection kits.
Packaging: Typical ISW long white, heavy cardboard box. The hull is wrapped in bubble and small parts are packaged in flexible clear plastic boxes. PE and decals are bagged. The box is the filled with foam peanuts and newspaper. Packing is adequate to prevent shipping damage.
Recommendation: only for the dedicated RN fan with lots of resin experience. Beginners STAY AWAY.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1981.
2 per package
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1899.
Includes parts for round and square bridge
Discontinued
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: This is apparently a re-issue of a Gulfstream kit.
Discontinued
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at the St. Nazaire Raid.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I ordered my kit directly from ISW and because it is a full hull kit I asked that they short cast it, eliminating as much of the lower hull as possible in order that I could build it as a waterline model, so I offer no opinion on the lower hull.
Note 2: the contents of this kit reflect a change to the ship's appearance from its original construction. Connecticut was refitted with cage masts that replaced the military style masts of her original build.
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in several different colors that also includes a small number of cast metal parts, brass rod, US flag decal set and a photo etch detail fret featuring (among other delicately etched pieces) the ship's cage masts (with an extra) and a full set of railings. This kit came with turned brass gun barrels for the main battery and the secondary guns. These gun barrels are very well executed. The modeler will have to supply chain for the anchors. The one piece hull has most of the limited superstructure cast into it and has good, sharp, surface detail and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been pinholes and bubbles in the resin. In my experience it is rare to have a kit from ISW with no pinholes, bubbles or malformations in the hull casting. This kit, one of their newer efforts is free of these troubles that have affected their kits in the past. This particular kit is also free of large numbers of extraneous resin globs on the major parts. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash, but it is not difficult to remove. Many of the parts still have pour plug attachments in hard to remove places . This kit is a vast improvement over previous ISW kits.
This kit will build into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: extremely basic, the modeler is advised to obtain plans or a good set of photos to complete this kit. Fortunately, lots of good photos are available on web sites such as NavSource.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with foam peanuts. The system works well enough.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1910.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
OOB review: More parts than I've ever seen in a model! EEK! :-)
Seriously, this is a well cast model, and the small parts are all well detailed. I would like to see the other ships of her class, or at least a couple extra 6" cheek turrets so the others can be built. (JP)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: the kit that I have reviewed was a very old one that has been kicking around for years. Newer issues of this kit may have changed content since that time, the modeler should check with his dealer or the manufacturer before buying.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit cast in a dark yellow that also includes brass rod and a fret of photo etched detail parts. The PE is finely etched but is not relief etched as is more current PE. Also included is a very nice decal sheet of flags, ship numbers and aircraft markings. The hull casting which includes much of the superstructure is detailed with lots of molded in detail in the deck such as deck hardware and splinter shields. The sides of the hull have no pinholes, bubbles, dropouts or other flaws. However, some of the deck equipment has fallen prey to the bubbles in the resin being incompletely formed. As I have said before it is not impossible to fix but detracts from an otherwise nice casting. Smaller resin parts are cleanly cast and sharp for the most part with excess flash only found on some of the AA guns. I highly recommend metal replacement barrels for the main battery guns as the resin ones just don't cut it.
Directions:: lots of drawings and some paint and rigging instructions as well. A step or two above the usual for this kit maker. Supplementing them with photos or plans wouldn't hurt.
Packaging: the usual big heavy cardboard box, etc.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
Discontinued
Editor's Note: I have no idea how, if at all, 4-091 differs from 4-017. (DRW)
Limited edition, only available by direct order from IS.
Limited edition, direct order from IS only.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1902.
GOOD. I like this kit very much. Its flaws - instructions and casting of small parts - are easily remedied. My sample was one of the very early releases, so I expect these shortcomings will soon be fixed. With better instructions this kit would rate a solid 4* rating. Commanders is to be congratulated forissuing a kit of this interesting and important vessel. (RM)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1968. Apparently, this is the same kit as Johnston.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1989.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
EXCELLENT: This models an important vessel, the first US Navy submarine. In 1/72 it's about eight inches long, just big enough to get good detail without being unwieldy. There are about a dozen resin pieces, which need little cleanup, and a similar number of photo-etched brass parts. These are on thicker than usual brass sheet, and scale well to the model. The parts fit well with minimal sanding, the only dicey part being the elaborate set of planes used for steering and diving and surfacing. The casting is excellent, with the parts on thin plastic sheet or on thin rods. The only voids were on the base of the one-piece hull, and these were easily filled with putty. The instructions recommend mounting the model while working on it, and I concur.
The model compares well to photographs of the original. She represents her after her 1898 refit, with her screw forward of the planes. References are needed, since there are a few details missing, including a brace for the horizontalplanes' control rod. Also, masts need to be fabricated - there are several sites on the web with clear photos showing their position and construction. (JP)
Portrays the ship in 1941. Limited run of 200 units.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the White Ensign Models Hood (1/350).
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I ordered my kit directly from ISW and because it is a full hull kit I asked that they short cast it, eliminating as much of the lower hull as possible in order that I could build it as a waterline model, so I offer no opinion on the lower hull.
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in several different colors that also includes brass rod, US flag decal set and a photo etch detail fret with a full set of railings. The one piece hull has most of the limited superstructure cast into it and has good, sharp, surface detail and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been and continues to be pinholes and bubbles in the resin. This kit has very few in the hull but, the ones that are there are in awkward to repair areas. This is particularly so for the cast in deck hardware. Several of these pieces are incomplete or damaged by bubbles. This particular kit is free of large numbers of extraneous resin globs on the major parts. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash, less so than the Iowa kit but still a significant amount and the other thing is that many of the parts have pour plug attachments in hard to remove places . While this kit is an improvement over the Iowa kit, ISW #4-140 there are still too many such glitches. Gun barrels are cast in resin and scream out for brass or aluminum turned replacements as they will require too much work and probably never look right. Generally though, the smaller resin parts in this kit were more cleanly cast and sharper than the Iowa kit and some others that I have seen.
This kit will build into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: are pretty much nonexistent. There are a couple of sketches of several of the areas like the boat deck and part of the superstructure but they really are inadequate. Do yourself a favor and get a set of plans or a bunch of good photos before starting the kit. You are on your own as far as painting and rigging is concerned.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with foam peanuts. The system works well enough.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1905.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945.
GOOD. Iron Shipwright's 1/350 model represents the first British battlecruiser - HMS Invincible - as she appeared December 1914, when she and her sister Inflexible destroyed the German cruiser squadron under Admiral von Spee at the Battle of the Falkland Islands.
The hull is a large chunk of resin over 19 inches long, which scales out nicely to the actual ship. I had requested my model as a waterline version, but Ted Paris inadvertently sent me a full hull kit at first. This hull was relatively free of bubbles and pitting like some other ISW kits -it even includes the underwater torpedo tubes. The prop shaft housings were poorly cast and need to be replaced.
One thing missing was any trace of hull plating. While this was a prominent feature on these ships, the model is cast a smooth as a baby behind. Also the torpedo net and associated equipment had been removed by December 1914, but the attachment points on the hulls for the net booms were still on the hull. These are missing on the kit.
While the bottom of the hull was well formed, the mushroom vents on the deck were mostly malformed, with large voids in them. I plan to cut them all off and make new ones. Additionally, the torpedo net shelf is warped in a few spots, but the superstructure that was cast as part of the hull was well done.
For such a large ship (Invincible was the largest warship in the world when launched) there aren't many parts. Most of the superstructure, turrets and masts are cast in resin and have the usual flash associated with Iron Shipwright kits. The main battery guns and searchlights are cast in white metal and are decent quality (I'd like to see Iron Shipwright cast more of their smaller parts in white metal!).
A nice set of photo-etching is included, that covers railings, superstructure bracing and even the aerials between the fore and mainmasts!
The directions follow the recently Iron Shipwright trend of being Spartan. As I mentioned, however, there aren't many parts to this kit anyway, so it's not as big of a problem as it may be with a more complex model. For those inclined to super-detail, White Ensign Models sells a set of plans of Invincible in her Falkland Islands fit (12/1914), which may aid in the construction of the kit as well.
While not without its flaws, I'd recommend the kit to those who wish to model the first of Jackie Fisher's greyhounds, HMS Invincible.
(MJQ), review dated 14 March 2006
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in various hues that also includes brass rod, US flag decal set and a photo etch detail fret. The one piece hull has most of the superstructure cast into it and has good surface detail and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been and continues to be pinholes and bubbles in the resin. While this hull casting does not have too many, the ones that are there are in awkward to repair areas. There are also areas of extraneous resin that must be carefully removed in various places around the hull casting. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash, especially the turrets on my kit. Gun barrels are cast in resin and scream out for brass or aluminum turned replacements. Some of the vents were marred by bubbles and dropouts in the casting. This is mitigated somewhat by the company's generous policy of replacement parts. Just notify them of your problem and they will send replacements.
This kit will build into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: better than some of their other kits but still rudimentary. Do yourself a favor and get a set of plans or a bunch of good photos before starting the kit. You are on your own as far as painting is concerned.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with old newspaper. The system works.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1968. Apparently, this is the same kit as Gearing FRAM.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin model that includes photo etch brass detail parts and brass rod stock. The hull is a one piece casting molded in aqua colored resin that includes the lower superstructure of the ship. It is very well detailed and is cleanly cast for the most part. There are a few pinholes in the bottom of the hull that need to be filled and a strip of extraneous resin from the casting process that needs to be removed. The smaller resin parts (molded in a variety of colors) which consist almost entirely of vents, stack and small caliber weapons have good surface detail but lots and lots of flash. There does not appear to be any malformed parts. The included PE fret contains railings, ladders, platforms, davits, anchors, ship's wheel and misc. boat parts. You will need the brass rod for the canopy supports, ship's boats equipment and prop shafts. My kit was missing the ship's mast and boats.
This model really is a must have for any USN builder/collector. I mean, really, what was the Navy Brass thinking? A ram, in the 1890s? This bizarre creature is just too much fun to ignore.
Directions:: consist of a color photo of the completed model (which also serves as a painting guide), a photo of the actual ship at sea and an exploded view assembly diagram with a parts list. The diagram isn't terribly specific but there aren't that many parts so reference to it and the photos should be just enough to put this model together.
Packaging: hull is wrapped in bubble wrap, other parts are bagged, PE and brass rod are taped to the inside of the box top. Box is a sturdy white corrugated cardboard with a small picture of the completed model as the box art.
Note: ISW has an excellent reputation for service and standing behind their product. They quickly replace any missing or broken parts. They are accessible and responsible merchants.
(WJS), review dated 22 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1899.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1899.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I ordered my kit directly from ISW and because it is a full hull kit I asked that they short cast it, eliminating as much of the lower hull as possible in order that I could build it as a waterline model, so I offer no opinion on the lower hull.
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in light green, yellow and a mind boggling blue resin that also includes brass rod, US flag decal set and a photo etch detail fret and a full set of railings. The one piece hull has a good deal of the superstructure cast into it and has good, sharp, surface detail and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been and continues to be pinholes and bubbles in the resin. While this hull casting does not have a large number of them, the ones that are there are in awkward to repair areas, especially on the molded in deck equipment. There are also areas of extraneous resin that must be carefully removed in various places around the hull casting. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash, less so than other kits but still a significant amount, look out for the support structures for the ships boats. While this kit is an improvement over the Iowa kit, ISW #4-140 there are still too many such glitches. Gun barrels are cast in resin and scream out for brass or aluminum turned replacements, which I would recommend most strongly. Generally though, the smaller resin parts in this kit were more cleanly cast and sharper than the Iowa kit.
The differences between Kearsarge and Kentucky in this period were not terribly pronounced so with a set of plans you could probably build either ship from the parts provided (well maybe, with a little bit of scratch building).
This kit will build into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: better than some of their other kits but still rudimentary. Do yourself a favor and get a set of plans or a bunch of good photos before starting the kit. You are on your own as far as painting and rigging is concerned.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with old newspapers. The system works well enough.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1905.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: multimedia kit containing resin parts, photo-etch fret and brass rod for masts and yards. One piece light gray-green resin hull incorporates most of the superstructure and requires fairly energetic sanding to achieve a flat bottom with some puttying of the armor belt. Small resin parts (in light tan) have quite a bit of thin wispy flash that must be removed before assembly (the flash reminds me of the fragile edges of shallow water just starting to freeze over). Photo-etch fret consists of various types of ladders, boat davits/frames, anchors, railings and HALLELUJAH! RATLINES!! Masts and spars as well as gun barrels will have to be fabricated from the enclosed brass rod. The builder might want to consider stainless surgical tubing as a substitute for brass rod for the gun barrels.
Directions:: two one sided pages in English with rudimentary instructions and one sketch showing the location of some of the parts to be attached to the boat deck. Instructions for many resin kits have been a weak point and this one is no exception. While this isn't a critical flaw better directions would make this a more enjoyable build. You are on your own for painting and rigging.
Packaging: study, heavy cardboard box with the small and pe parts bagged, all floating around the box with the hull in a bunch of peanuts.
Note: Kit can be used to build USS Kentucky BB-6 as she was virtually identical. Both of these ships had a variety of paint schemes so they could be assembled identically but painted dramatically different.
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1905.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1968. Apparently, this is the same kit as Sumner FRAM.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1930.
FAIR. My kit was a later issue with the Nautilus wood flight deck. One piece hull casting. Typical of this method the bottom of the hull was a literal minefield of bubbles ranging from pinholes to 3/16" diameter, the rudder skeg had a thin solid skin but was like resin foam inside. I hogged out the foam resin from the skeg and back filled it with thick CA. The bubbles in the hull bottom took 4 applications of polyester putty with lots of sanding to eradicate. The kit does not have bilge keels so you must add them. The upper area of the hull had areas of severe tearout that take careful carving to correct and a number of projections had to be rebuilt due to bubbles. The larger resin parts such as the bridge, platforms and smoke pipe sysem were decently cast with a few pinholes. The smaller resin parts such as guns, vents, boats had rough surfaces, excess flash and pinholes. The PE is fair to good. The instructions vary from fair for basic assembly to good for the PE trusses. Follow the truss instructions or you're in deep trouble. Some shrinkage is evident in that the forward most truss hangs over the hull edge by 1/64". Make sure you laminate the thin wooden deck to something like .032" thick aluminum or it will warp. Not a kit for less than advanced resin and PE users.
(RWS), Review dated 18 August 2007.
Combination of above three models
Limited to only 100 units.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898.
FAIR. I finished this kit in early 2003, having started it a couple of years before that. Hull is very good with few bubbles or blemishes. Most of the small resin parts were unusable due to poor casting quality. Most obvious problem is that all of the small boats provided are incorrect for 1898 and are actually WW2-era motor whaleboats. I scrounged replacements from sources such as a spare Revell SMS Emden. I made new masts and davits from brass rod. Replaced props and shafts. Replaced all gun barrels with brass or hollow stainless steel tubing. Photoetched parts were very good and ISW even sent me a free replacement set when I screwed up some railings. Instructions were terrible. Fortunately, I had a number of photos of a 1/48 (?) model from the Hampton Roads Naval Museum in Norfolk, VA, to work from. Lastly, I added a few dozen crew figures (flat PE type) but now want to replace those with the outstanding 1/350 resin figures available from L'Arsenal.
Overall review: has potential, but be prepared for an awful lot of work! (ML)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I ordered my kit directly from ISW and because it is a full hull kit I asked that they short cast it, eliminating as much of the lower hull as possible in order that I could build it as a waterline model, so I offer no opinion on the lower hull.
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in various hues that also includes brass rod, US flag decal set and very extensive photo etch detail frets that include the cage masts and a full set of railings as well as many other parts. The one piece hull has most of the superstructure cast into it and has good, sharp, surface detail and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been and continues to be pinholes and bubbles in the resin. While this hull casting does not have too many, the ones that are there are in awkward to repair areas. There are also areas of extraneous resin that must be carefully removed in various places around the hull casting. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash, less so than the Iowa kit but still a significant amount, again affecting the turrets on my kit. While this kit is an improvement over the Iowa kit, ISW #4-140 there are still too many such glitches. Gun barrels are cast in white metal and scream out for brass or aluminum turned replacements (which I bought, at least for the main battery tubes). Generally though, the smaller resin parts in this kit were more cleanly cast and sharper than the Iowa kit.
This kit will build into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: better than some of their other kits but still rudimentary. Do yourself a favor and get a set of plans or a bunch of good photos before starting the kit. You are on your own as far as painting and rigging is concerned.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with foam peanuts and a Post Office air bag. The system works well enough.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1918.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1910.
GOOD. (based on In Box Review)
Note: Kit appears to be in the rebuilt configuration with cage masts (she was originally built with a large military style mast forward, cage masts were added during a major refit) so the stated time is probably right, this ship and her sister (Idaho) had very little done to it during their careers with two navies after the conversion to cage masts. The class was a bit of a white elephant for the USN and was sold to the Greek Navy in 1914 before US involvement in WWI. Mississippi was name Kilkis by the Greek Navy. Both ships were eventually sunk by the Germans in World War 2.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with photo etch, turned brass gun barrels for the main battery (and secondaries as well), brass rod (and tubing) for masts and yards and a decal set of flags. The photo etch is not relief etched but appears to be competently done. It includes railings, three cage masts, vertical ladders, inclined ladders, funnel grills, davits, platforms, platform supports, radio antennas and crane pullies. All the rest of the parts are cast in yellow resin. The hull and lower superstructure are cast as one piece with very nice detail, fit and finish being far superior to their Agincourt kit. There is scribed planking detail of the continuous line variety (no butt ends) but in a change of pace for this maker there is also an attempt to represent the coal scuttles in the deck. For the most part it works but quite a few of the castings are slightly incomplete. Again, details like portholes are more completely cast than the Agincourt kit. However, the smaller parts are just like the Agincourt kit. Some are incompletely cast or malformed and most are covered in the spidery flash that seems to bedevil all ISW kits, although a bit less so than the Bellerophon kit. My kit was also shipped without a number of parts. Once again after performing an inventory I requested the missing and/or malformed parts and was immediately shipped a replacement supply The hull and lower superstructure are very good, actually some of their best work, but the rest is just typical ISW.
Directions: Multi-page black and white line drawings with parts inventory sheets. Drawings and sequence suggestions are far superior to the usual directions supplied with an ISW kit. There are even some rudimentary callouts for photo etch placement. Still, they cannot compare to the directions found in current high end injection kits.
Packaging: Typical ISW long white, heavy cardboard box. The hull is wrapped in bubble and small parts are packaged in flexible clear plastic boxes. PE and decals are bagged. The box is the filled with foam peanuts and newspaper. Packing is adequate to prevent shipping damage.
Not recommended for the beginner in resin and probably not for anyone else but the true USN early BB fan. If you have done some ISW kits before then you will like this one a bit better, but it is still a lot of work.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) This kit portrays the ship in 1898. I haven't fully researched this ship yet, but my initial impression of the kit is quite favorable. It is quite detailed, and very cleanly cast. So far, my only real complaint is some bubbles in the resin, (almost inevitable in the casting process) but even these are in the bottom, where they're easier to fill. The pour plug is thin, and easily removed. The smaller parts have some flash, but nothing too serious. The photo-etch fret is very fine indeed. I'll have to see how well it actually goes together...... (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with photo etched brass detail parts and rod. The hull is a one piece casting incorporating the lower superstructure. It has very good surface detail on both deck and sides. My example was cleanly cast except for the bottom of the hull. There is a remnant of the casting process that must be sanded off but that isn't all that difficult. However, the bottom of the hull has a large hole just forward of the prop shaft mounting points and literally hundreds of pinholes! This, while annoying, isn't as hard to deal with as it might first appear. You have to sand the bottom anyway to clean up the casting residue so you will just fill the holes with some putting and sand afterwards.
The other resin parts have quite a bit of flash but appear to be well detailed. I did not notice any missing or malformed parts in this kit. The PE fret includes the necessary railings, ladders, boat paraphernalia and other bits to finish the kit. All in all this kit will build up into a very nice little model of still another bizarre chapter in USN history.
Directions:: consist of two pages of line drawings showing parts placement with a supplementary text sheet explaining each step and a fourth sheet which is the parts inventory. The directions are much better than other kits I have seen by this maker. There are, however, no painting instructions other than the example provided by the color photo used as box art.
Packaging: sturdy corrugated cardboard box with a color photo of the completed model as the box art. Hull is wrapped in bubble wrap, small parts are bagged or contained in small plastic boxes, PE lines the bottom of the box and the brass rod is taped to the inside of the box lid.
Note: ISW has an excellent reputation for service and standing behind their product. They quickly replace any missing or broken parts. They are accessible and responsible merchants.
(WJS), review dated 22 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in 1941.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I ordered my kit directly from ISW and because it is a full hull kit I asked that they short cast it, eliminating as much of the lower hull as possible in order that I could build it as a waterline model, so I offer no opinion on the lower hull.
Note 2: the contents of this kit reflect a change to the ship's appearance from its original construction. NJ was refitted with cage masts that replaced the military style masts of her original build.
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in several different colors that also includes brass rod, US flag decal set and a photo etch detail fret featuring (among other delicately etched pieces) the ship’s cage masts (with an extra) and a full set of railings. The modeler will have to supply chain for the anchors. The one piece hull has most of the limited superstructure cast into it and has good, sharp, surface detail and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been pinholes and bubbles in the resin. For the first time ever in my experience I have a kit from ISW with no pinholes, bubbles or malformations in the hull casting. This particular kit is also free of large numbers of extraneous resin globs on the major parts. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash, but it is not difficult to remove. Many of the parts have pour plug attachments in hard to remove places . This kit is a vast improvement over previous ISW kits. Rather than try to make resin gun barrels look good I opted for the extra cost turned brass main and secondary gun barrels. They are very nice.
This kit will build into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: ISW has shipped with this kit a set of directions written by Quintin Trammell rather than their usual attempt (the notes supplied are for the USS Virginia but apply as well to New Jersey). The written (in English) instructions by Mr. Trammell are a big help when used with the supplied drawings, a big improvement over previous kits. Painting instructions have even been supplied! Rigging diagrams are pretty basic so it is back to the plans and photos for that.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with foam peanuts. The system works well enough.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1910.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I purchased this kit from a fellow modeler who only builds waterline as well so the bottom had been hacked up for removal so I cannot comment on anything below the waterline.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit cast in several different colors that also includes aluminum and brass rod, tubing, white metal parts and several frets of photo etched detail parts. The PE is finely etched but is not relief etched as is more current PE. Also included is a very nice decal sheet of flags, ship numbers and aircraft markings. The hull casting is detailed with lots of molded in structures in the deck and along the hull sides. The decks planked areas are very finely engraved. The effect, however, is marred by the malformations of the various deck hardware such as vents, capstans, bollards and the like. Many of these pieces seem to have had bubbles in the resin that broke the surface when the kit was pulled from the mold. There are also little blobs of resin scattered around the planked areas in some places which will require careful removal so as not to damage the planking detail. While not impossible to fix by any means it detracts from an otherwise good job of design and casting. The other resin parts are sharp enough with good surface detail but they are plagued by the persistent flash issue that ISW small resin parts have. The superstructure decks are straight and well detailed. The metal parts also have considerable flash to deal with. The main battery gun barrels are cast in the white metal and just don't do the model justice. You would be well advised to find a set of turned brass or aluminum barrels for this kit.
I have always liked the look of these ships and have no doubt that this kit will build into a great looking example but it is just not for a resin beginner.
Directions:: A really good set of directions come with this kit. Lots of drawings and explanatory text (in English). Far superior to almost every other ISW kit I have seen and superior to many other makers as well.
Packaging: heavy cardboard box with bubble wrap on the hull, small parts bagged and then boxed in a smaller box inside the box. Very well packed kit.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944. Kit discontinued as of 2005.
Editor's Note: Also includes decals for Zulu and Eskimo.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) With the release of the USS Ohio, another United States Navy pre-dreadnought is brought to market by Commanders Series/Iron Shipwrights. Previous releases include the USS Iowa, USS Kearsarge and USS Illinois. This newer release differs from those in that while those models depicted the ships in their pre-1909 buff and white livery, the Ohio model depicts her after her switch to an overall gray and the installation of her two cage masts.
As is the usual Iron Shipwright practice, the hull is cast as one piece. The hull is about 13.5 inches long, which scales out nicely to the real Ohio's length of 393 feet, while the beam of just under 2.4 inches scale out to the 72 feet of beam on the real thing. The upper part of the hull is nicely cast, with very few voids or pin holes in the deck, deck fittings or superstructure. The bilge keels - which are sometimes poorly cast on full hull kits - are also well done and require only minor cleanup. The poorest part of the hull is the protrusions for the shafts to go into the hull.
The bottom of the hull has a prominent "rib" of resin over pour, with a resin stub in the center of the hull - but these can be easily removed. There are also many small pin holes along the bottom of the hull. Again, these are easily fixed with putty, and are confined only to the bottom of the hull. All in all, this is one of the better hulls I've seen on an Iron Shipwright kit.
The rudder and prop shafts are pretty well cast, you still may want to replace the shafts with brass rod for added strength. While looking over the kit, I realized that there were no props, searchlights or anchor handling cranes in the kit. I'm sure a call to ISW will have the parts on their way to me in short order.
One thing I've noticed with ISW kits is that the smaller parts are usually the weakest part of their kits. While the quality of the hulls and larger parts has improved, sometimes the smaller parts have issues. In the Ohio, the funnels are well cast, the turrets, ships boats and cranes are decently cast, but the ventilators and some of the parts for the superstructure aren't as good, with holes, voids and seams. Commanders Series/Iron Shipwrights' customer service is legendary, so if you are unhappy with any parts, I suggest you call for replacements.
Two photo-etch frets are included with the model. One has three cages masts on it, which gives you some room for error, while the second fret has railings, inclined ladders and funnel caps. The photo-etch is good, but I'd like to see Iron Shipwright start doing some relief etching on their photo-etch moving forward.
The instructions in the USS Ohio are better than some of the instructions in their recent kits, but still could use improvement. I'd like to see a plan and profile view of the ships in the instructions to go along with what is already included. I think that would help the modeler with the placement of parts and photo-etch.
For the most part, the model is well cast and appears to be in scale. Without a set of plans, I can't vouch for the accuracy, but the kit appears to match photos and line drawings. The weakest part of this kit are the small parts and instructions, but that shouldn't prevent you from being able to build a decent replica of this pre-dreadnought battleship for your collection. The USS Ohio retails for $225.95. I purchased mine directly from Iron Shipwright.
(MJQ), review dated 17 August 2007
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I ordered my kit directly from ISW and because it is a full hull kit I asked that they short cast it, eliminating as much of the lower hull as possible in order that I could build it as a waterline model, so I offer no opinion on the lower hull.
Note 2: the contents of this kit reflect a change to the ship's appearance from its original construction. Ohio was refitted with cage masts that replaced the military style masts of her original build.
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in several different colors that also includes, a US flag decal set and a photo etch detail fret featuring (among other delicately etched pieces) the ship’s cage masts (with an extra) and a full set of railings. The modeler will have to supply chain for the anchors and brass rod to supplement the fabrication of the masts. The one piece hull has most of the limited superstructure cast into it and has good, sharp, surface detail and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been pinholes and bubbles in the resin. This kit, as part of a new trend for ISW has no pinholes or bubbles on the hull casting. There are, however, some incompletely filled holes in the wood planking pattern that will have to be fixed and a couple of boat deck parts that were incomplete. The kit is also free of large numbers of extraneous resin globs on the major parts. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash, but it is not difficult to remove. Many of the parts have pour plug attachments in hard to remove places and some pieces also seem somewhat frail. However, given ISW's generous return/replacement policy this should not be a problem. This kit is a vast improvement over previous ISW kits but not quite as nice as the USS Connecticut, ISW #4-210.
This kit will build into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: the directions found with this kit are an improvement over many past efforts but will still require supplementary materials like photos or ships plans to accurately complete this kit.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with foam peanuts. The system works well enough.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1910.
FAIR-GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: This is an older version of this kit from ISW and may have changed over time. As I do not build full hull ships, this kit made a stop between me and the manufacturer to have the bottom cut off with a saw, so there will be no commentary on the areas below the waterline.
Kit Parts: this is a full hull resin model cast in various hues that also includes, a US flag decal set, cast metal parts and photo etch detail frets. The modeler will need to supply brass rod and anchor chain. The one piece hull has good surface detail on the hull sides and finely engraved planking where appropriate. The bane of this company has been and continues to be pinholes and bubbles in the resin (however, see their newer castings for a change in this). There are bubbles and pinholes in many places on the hull and deck in the various pieces of equipment like the mushroom vents which or either incomplete or malformed as a result of the bubbles. Smaller resin parts have a considerable amount of flash and many have very inconveniently located pour plugs that must be carefully removed. Some of the bridge levels are warped and I am hoping to be able to straighten them out in a hot water dip. Gun barrels are cast in the white metal and scream out for brass or aluminum turned replacements. I believe this to be a must in this scale as the brass would be far superior. The PE parts are finely etched but not relief etched (see my note above).
This kit can be built into a very nice model but it is not for the beginner in resin.
Directions:: better than some of their other kits but still rudimentary. Do yourself a favor and get a set of plans or a bunch of good photos before starting the kit. You are on your own as far as painting is concerned.
Packaging: strong, heavy cardboard box, bubble wrapped hull, bagged small parts, remainder stuffed with old newspaper. The system works.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in 1941.
Portrays the ship in 1898.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1906.
Several modelers have recommended this as a good first resin kit - simple, small, with few parts. (JP)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Upon opening Iron Shipwright's 1/160th scale 173' Steel Hulled PC, I saw an exquisite, 13" long, solid, cream-colored resin hull, with all of the ammo ready-use boxes, vents, ladders, breakwater, gun tub, bridge wings, and other deck and superstructure paraphernalia molded on with absolute crispness and clarity. The overall length is spot on, at least as far as I can tell, 12.975 inches being as close as can be to 13 inches. There were a goodly number of pinholes along the keel, nothing significant, and one of the bilge keels was chipped, but beyond that, as I said, exquisite!
The instructions call out 44 resin parts, 76 PE parts, 3 pieces of wire, and 8 lengths of railing in 3 different styles. Aside from a bit of flash on the resin bits, they are beautifully rendered. The wire is for life raft racks and a replacement for the resin mast should you wish to rig the vessel. It also comes with a 1/192nd USN Ship's Hull Numbers decal sheet. 24 inch numbers in 1/192nd scales down to 1/8th of an inch, which then scales up to 20 inches in 1/160th. Is this an appropriate size for small craft?
Typical armament of these craft was a single 3"/50 forward, a single 40mm Bofors aft, 5 20mm Oerlikons, 2 depth charge "K" guns, a single DC rack, and two mousetraps forward. However, there are photos that show one-off, with a 3"/50 in place of the aft 40mm, for two 3"/50s. Another variant was a 40mm forward in place of the 3"/50, for two 40mms. Lastly, there seems to have been a 3"/23 Poole gun, of World War One vintage, mounted on one or two, in place of the forward 3"/50. I mentioned earlier that the instructions called out 44 resin p bits, including everything necessary for a single 3”/50, a single 40mm, and five 20mms. My box just happened to contain an extra set of resin bits! I have enough for one of the variants, should I choose to model one. Whether this inclusion was an oversight, Standard Operating Procedure, or Ted knows how clumsy I can be with fiddly parts, they are sure welcome! The only thing missing would be a 3"/23.
BEAUTIFUL!!!
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Having made their way through most of the American pre-dreadnoughts, it appears that Iron Shipwright is turning their efforts to Royal Navy subjects, picking up where they left off with HMS Invincible with a release of the doomed Royal Navy battlecruiser HMS Queen Mary.
Mine arrived in a study cardboard box, with the large hull wrapped in both bubble wrap and another pad for extra protection.
The hull is 24 inches long, which scales out perfectly with the Queen Mary's overall length (sans stern walk) of 700 feet, and about 3 inches wide, which is very close to being in scale with her actual beam of 89 feet. Overall, the hull is very nicely cast. There are some ventilators and other small parts on the deck which have voids or holes, but those can be easily repaired. There are some air holes, a casting rib and two casting plugs protruding from the bottom of the hull. Again, these should be easy to clean up.
When looking at the kit, I wasn't sure of the placement of the torpedo net shelf. On the model, the torpedo net shelf is laid on top of the deck. A look at the Sambrook Marine plans of the ships show that this appears to be correct. However, there are a few areas where the torpedo net shelf is broken. I would have preferred that ISW leave the torpedo net shelf off the hull and provide it as a photo-etched part instead.
The turrets and funnels are well cast....though the opening for the aft oval funnel (which appears to me is from their Invincible kit) should be a little deeper, in my opinion. The 13.5 inch guns are white metal and will require a little bit of clean up, but all in all don't look that bad. It also looks like you'll have to either drill out the turrets or cut the white metal barrels, as they appear to be just a bit too long when fit into the turret. ISW also offers a nice set of brass barrels (which I picked up at a later date) to replace the white metal versions.
The levels for the forward superstructure have some flash on them, but otherwise are very well done, while the deck for the aft superstructure is very nice indeed. ISW packaged this part wrapped with the photo-etch to prevent warping - a nice touch.
Other small parts include the struts for the fore and main masts, ships boats, torpedo net booms, and searchlights in resin, plus white metal anchors. The struts for the main masts are well cast, but you still may want to replace these with brass rod or tube if you are going to rig your model. The ships boats are the best batch of boats I've ever seen from ISW. In the past, as many as half the boats have been unusable, but these were well cast - a good sign. The booms for the torpedo net have some flash on them, and look quite fragile. Be careful with them, or replace them with brass or styrene rod. The searchlights Queen Mary carried were also well done in my kit, while the struts/shafts and rudders all seem up to par. There were no props in my kit.
The photo-etch set that comes with the model is pretty extensive, and well done. I like how ISW etched the letter of the fret into the brass. What I'd like to see Iron Shipwright do is start moving into relief etching, which I think would bring their kits to another level. Even without relief etching, I have no complaints about the photo-etch, other than some of the parts could use a clear demarcation line to help make them easier to fold.
The instructions in some of the recent Iron Shipwright kits have left much to be desired. The instructions have ranged from 'sparse' to 'worthless', in my opinion. The instructions for the Queen Mary, while not being perfect, are much better than recent releases. I'd still like to see a plan and profile view to help get a feel for where parts go on the whole model, but these instructions are definitely an improvement. Let's hope that trend continues with their next release.
The Queen Mary retails for $349.95. I bought mine directly from Iron Shipwrights.
(MJQ), review dated 17 August 2007
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1898.
Limited to 100 units, by direct order only.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1943. W/Nuttall Brass Barrels
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1916.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1906.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1968. Apparently, this is the same kit as Laffey.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in 1941.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: as I only build waterline ships this kit made a stop en route before reaching me to have the bottom cut off at the waterline, so no further word on those parts.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit cast in several different colors that also includes aluminum and brass rod, plastic stock, white metal parts and several frets of photo etched detail parts. The PE is finely etched but is not relief etched as more current PE. The hull casting is truly a marvel of detail just crammed with all sorts of molded in structures in the deck and along the hull sides. The decks planked areas are very finely engraved. The effect is marred by the malformations of the various mushroom vents, capstans and several ready ammunition boxes for the 20 mm guns. The mushroom vents seem to have had bubbles in the resin that broke the surface when the kit was pulled from the mold. While not impossible to fix by any means it detracts from an otherwise beautiful job of design and casting. The other resin parts seem sharper than many other ISW kits I have seen and own but they are plagued by the persistent flash issue that ISW small resin parts have. The superstructure decks are straight and well detailed. The metal parts are also sharper on this kit than other ISW kits with less flash as well.
This is one of the older ISW kits but one of the better ones, in some parts superior to even the newest offerings of the company. Any modeler with experience in resin can make this into a stunning model.
Directions:: superior to most ISW directions but still limited in scope. As always the modeler will want to have some good photos and plan views on hand to make sure this goes together right. Check your paint sources and rigging plans as well.
Packaging: heavy cardboard box with bubble wrap on the hull, small parts bagged and then boxed in a smaller box inside the box. Very well packed kit.
(WJS), review dated 20 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1944.
For comparison, check out the following:
3 versions - as built, Battle of the Yalu, Japanese
Editor's Note: Looks like it's the same as Zulu.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in the mid 1980s.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945.
Imex Model Company P.O. Box 15390 Brooksville, FL 34609 Phone: (352) 754-8522Their web site
Very limited detail (PC)
GOOD. This model is not blessed with a lot of detail, but it carries plenty of detail. It can be used to represent an USNS ship similar to the Trinidad Freighter. The worst part about the kits by IMEX is that the scales all differ from each other. Of the five kits I have seen only two are of the same scale. The up side to this that a merchant in the scale you may need for a diaroma is likely. Between Revell and IMEX you will likely find what you are looking for.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Very limited detail (PC)
Editor's Note: With a bit of haze grey paint, you could easily make this kit into the Cape Kennedy (T-AKR-5082) or the Cape Knox (T-AKR-5083). (DRW)
Very limited detail (PC)
GOOD. In a world where warships dominate the hobby store shelves, it's nice to see a merchant ship from time to time. Imex has released a series of 4 merchant ships that have a Sankyo (Japanese) heritage. This ship, the M.S. Trinidad, is a modern freighter (as are the others). The model has a full fold out sheet of instructions, but the instructions are somewhat hard to follow. Not because of lack of detail, but because the print quality was poor. It looks like it was a photocopy of a photocopy of a fax (all lines). So it may take a little detective work to complete the kit per the instructions. The kit includes decals which are very well printed, and thin. The hull is molded as one piece, with a fairly noticeable flash line down the center. The deck is split into 4 main pieces: The focs'l, forward, main, and aft. The focs'l deck has all the winches, windlasses and lookout station. The forward deck has 4 large cranes and booms, the main (amidship) deck has all the cargo hatches and cargo cranes, and the aft deck has the superstructure and bridge. The cranes are molded fairly well, a little heavy, but very tolerable. There was minimal flash along the mold lines, and there were a few with sink holes. The booms are also cast well, with minimal molding lines. The superstructure consists of a front, sides, and deck pieces, which must all be put together properly to achieve a good fit. I found them to go together very well, except there is a noticeable gap above the pilothouse. The inside bulkheads have no detail whatsoever, so a brass watertight door here or there might look good. You could also drill a few shallow holes for portholes. However, there are windows and portholes on the outermost bulkheads.
I dressed my model up with a few leftover pieces of brass railing, just to give it a little more definition. A curious thing about this model is the screw is a soft metal casting. It comes with a metal shaft to which the builder has to drill a hole. This model may have been motorized in the past, because of the way the inside of the hull is arranged. After the screw is properly affixed, the rudder is attached through a small hole in the hull.
Despite some flash and poorly printed instructions, this is really a nice kit for the modeler who wishes something out of the norm. It has lines and details typical of many merchant ships, so the builder doesn't have to stick with the box art. In fact, I built mine as a ship of the US Maritime Administration (MARAD) ready reserve fleet. MARAD has purchased many commercial vessels like these, and they are berthed in ports all over the US east and west coast. Also, many independent shippers use similar ships, so that opens up even more possibilities. (RD)
Very limited detail (PC)
Imperial Hobby Productions
PO Box 487
Wynnewood, PA 19096
USA
(610)352-0982 M-F 12p-9p EST
Contact Mike Bartel for more information.
Check out their web site
(DRW)
Their specialty is never-were, what-if, planned but cancelled ships.
His new kits are RN WW2 carriers plus the planned CVA-01 class.
(JoeP)
Resin kits
| 13-class | l'Algerie | l'Algerie | Ersatz Yorck | Gascogne | Gille | 'H' Klasse | Invincible |
| Joffre | Kreuzer M | Kreuzer P | Lexington | Littorio | Lyon | Montana | South Dakota |
| Repulse | Tillman Battleship | St. Andrew | Wild Goose |
Plastic kits
| Arromanches | Colossus | CVA-01 | Glory | Ocean | Theseus |
| Triumph | Venerable | Vengeance (1945) | Vengeance (1954) | Warrior |
Editor's Note: This is the never-built "13" class battlecruiser cancelled by the Washington Treaty.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Cleanly molded in a yellow resin. Only a very minimal amount of cleanup will be required before assembly. The only bubbles in the resin are on the bottom, where they are not a problem. The level of detail is quite good. I have not test fitted the parts.
My only complaint is a small one: the kit supplies plastic rod for the masts instead of brass. I think that brass would be sturdier. You can easily get brass rod from your local hobby shop.
Other than that, this is an excellent kit of an obscure ship project. (DRW), review dated 28 July 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship 1934-41.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See notes under Colossus-class. Announced 2021. Portrays the ship in 1951.
Editor's Note: This is not the WWI battlecruiser, but rather the never-built G3 battlecruiser of 1921, which was cancelled by the Washington Treaty.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
The model consists of a waterline resin hull including deck and main superstructure, additional resin parts for superstructure, gun turrets, funnels etc, metal gun barrels for the 28 cm guns, a metal anchor chain metal and plastic rods for the masts and cranes.
It seems as if the kit is build aber the drawings in Breyers "Battleships & Battle cruisers 1905-1970" book, the instructions give a 12 step building instructions and some background information about the Kreuzer P, but no painting instruction is given. The drawings form Breyers book complete the instructions.
The model shows itself in a superb production quality: The hull is absolutely flawless and shows a very wooden deck structure. There is no cleanup work required. The additional resin pars must be cut/sanded out of the production clutter, but again, the parts itself show up very nicely and seem to be correct.
As I have not build the model yet, I cannot say anything how the parts fit together.
(ME), review dated 25 March 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the 1938 design.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This model represents the final battlecruiser design of Lexington of 1921. This iteration of the ship was canceled by the terms of the Washington Naval Arms Conference of 1922 and Lexington, already considerably advanced in construction was converted to an aircraft carrier as was one of her five sisters, USS Saratoga, the other four were scrapped. An interesting aside is that the Lexingtons were the only ships to actually get a battlecruiser designation (CC) by the USN. The much later completed Alaska and Guam, which everybody else BUT the USN thought were battlecruisers, got a different designation (CB) which in USN parlance simply meant large cruiser.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model that also includes photo etch for the cage masts, brass main and secondary battery barrels, brass rod and white metal parts. All resin parts are cast in creamy white resin. The HUGE resin one piece hull is crammed with detail and beautifully molded. It is ready to go right out of the box, needing no cleanup or preparation other than washing it. The other resin parts are well detailed. The parts are on pour stubs and are a little bit flashy so you will need to spend some time cleaning them up. The stacks are molded solid with stack grills in place. There are several support structures meant for the searchlight platforms are also molded in solid resin that would best be replaced by PE from your spares pile. I do not know of a dedicated PE set for this kit, on the plus side is you are pretty much free to add details such as aircraft cranes and catapults as desired as there was no finished and fully equipped prototype to compare it to. So the purchase of a PE detail set for the earlier USN battleships may be a good idea.
The white metal parts consist of ships boats, davits, search lights, anchors, anchor chain (actually black model RR chain), smaller weapons and additional equipment. Some cleanup will be needed but overall not very much.
You will have to fabricate upper masts and yards from the brass rod enclosed. Paint instructions are probably best disregarded. I suggest a visit to the Snyder and Short website for a contemporary paint scheme to use.
Directions:: two sided page consisting of a brief history, parts inventory, and exploded view diagrams for assembly. Parts placement is somewhat vague, take care.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a sketch of the proposed ship as the box art. All parts are bagged but no packing materials were included so they rattle around inside the box.
This is a really beautiful model of a handsome ship. Even if you are not interested in "never weres" you should seriously consider this one. Mine will be displayed next to my Trumpeter Lexington aircraft carrier configuration.
(WJS), review dated 9 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrayed the Lexington as a battlecruiser, per her original design. As of 2005, discontinued.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See notes under Colossus-class. Announced 2021.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: This South Dakota was to be the lead ship of a six ship class of very powerful battleships. Similar in profile to the Colorados and Californias they would have been more heavily armed and armored. Substantial work was done on South Dakota before she and her sisters were scrapped in accordance with the terms of the Washington Naval Arms Conference and Treaty.
Kit Parts: This kit has been sold as both a full kit and as a "craftsman's" kit. It is my understanding that is now available (2/06) only as a craftsman's kit. The kit in this configuration does not include the white metal parts found in the full kit (this apparently allows IHP to offer the kit at a greatly reduced price). More on what's not there later.
The kit is a resin model with a small fret of photo etch for the cage masts. Also included are brass main and secondary gun barrels. All resin parts are cast in a creamy white resin. The one piece hull is a LARGE flawless casting crammed with fine detail and incorporating the lower superstructure. There are no bubbles, pits or bumps in the entire casting. The other resin parts all have good surface detail but do have some flash that must be removed. They are cast using pour stubs which will have to be removed using a type of razor saw.
You will need brass rod or tubing for masts and yards.
As the white metal parts are not included, you will need to scrounge up some ship's boats, 3" guns, anchors, anchor chain, davits, searchlights and small caliber weapons from your parts bin. If you don't have a parts bin you can get a Skywave USN Weapons Set or two or simply pick up a cheap plastic 1/700 Arizona kit and cannibalize the parts from it. I would also suggest that you pick up some PE for rails, ladders, boat cranes, platform braces, and possibly a catapult and aircraft crane. Final plans do not show the ship with aircraft but I can't imagine she would not have been so equipped if actually put into service in the 1920s.
In spite of the fact that you have to come up with a bunch of parts on your own for the craftsman's version of this kit I recommend the purchase of the kit without the least hesitation. Rather than being a "never was" this ship is an "almost was". It is a beautiful addition to any serious battleship collection.
Directions:: similar to IHP #70014 USS Lexington, they consist of one double sided page with a brief history, some line drawings, a parts inventory and exploded view assembly diagrams, which fortunately are more clear than those found with the Lexington kit. Disregard the painting instructions and check with the Snyder and Short website.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a sketch of the proposed ship as the box art. All parts are bagged but no packing materials were included so they rattle around inside the box.
(WJS), review dated 9 February 2006.
Editor's Note: As of 2005, discontinued.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1941.
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
The Tillman Battleships were a series of "Maxumum Battleship" designs prepared by the US Navy at the request of Senator Benjamin Tillman. Construction was never seriously considered. Whatever else you may say about them, they weren't boring! The kit portrays the design IV-2, which was dated January 1917.
IHP's kit is very nice in many ways. It is well detailed and cleanly cast. In most respects, it matches the official drawing of design IV-2 quite well. There is, unfortunately, one glaring problem: the second & third superstructure levels are too short. It looks like these levels have been cut down to just one level. This will be tricky to fix, as I will need to cut the top off in order to preserve the delicate planking, and splice some plastic strip in between. If it were not for this single flaw, I would have given it an excellent rating.
It should be noted that this is a "craftsman" kit. It provides most of the basic shapes, but the builder is expected to buy or fabricate such things as gun barrels and cage masts.
(DRW) review dated 29 March 2012.
Editor's Note: This is the never-built N3 battleship of 1921, which was cancelled by the Washington Treaty.
Editor's Note: See notes under Colossus-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Colossus-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Colossus-class. Announced 2021.
Editor's Note: See notes under Colossus-class. Announced 2021.
FAIR. A multi media model of a modified Black Swan sloop. The hull and superstructure are resin and are excellent mouldings. Even the hull plates are detailed and although probably out of scale look good. The one omission is the lack of blast screens on the upper decks. The weapons and many of the smaller fittings are in metal and are not nearly as good with poor surface and the material too soft. The 27' whaler is in metal while the 25' motor boat is in resin and the are both the wrong size with the whaler near 20' and the motor boat 30'. There are extra problems when trying to substitute a WEM whaler as that does not fit. On a plus note, brass rod is provided for the mast and decals for the pennant number. To complete the model I needed railings, all the weapons replaced with WEM items, plus PE radar. The instructions are very vague, particularly about AA weapons, boats and camouflage. Wild Goose seems to have been very photo-shy during the war so I've had to guess about details after studying her sister ships. Also quite an expensive model. (GS)
Editor's Note: As of 2005, discontinued.
Innex
Al, j. Pitsudskiego 32/214
41-303 Dabrowa Gornicza
Poland
OK-FAIR. Also sold by Mirage (kit 40047) with slightly different decals. This model is a decent rendition of Orzel ("Eagle"), the best known WWII Polish submarine. Molded in light gray plastic, the kit is conventionally laid out with a two part full hull split down the centerline with a separate main deck and two part conning tower. Surface detailing is abundant but a little faint, with the planks on the main deck only just visible and slightly wobbly scribed panel lines (Mirage Hobby offers a separate photoetch set especially for this kit which should improve it quite a bit). The conning tower is festooned with surface detail, mostly engraved drain holes, rails, and round windows for the bridge. These windows are depicted as dimples which would be no problem to drill out, but unfortunately they are noticeably out of line! Slightly raised shapes on the tower sides depict doors. Smaller parts are ok but nothing remarkable. Fit overall is mediocre, and in some cases placement is unclear. The rudder/aft dive planes, for example, required quite a bit of adjustment to get them to fit. Decals, printed by Techmod, are excellent. They include markings for Orzel and her sister Se;p as well as flags and boot tops. I don't have much in the way of references on this vessel so I can't comment on accuracy, but the completed model looks reasonably correct compared with photos.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued as:
OK-FAIR. Sep ("Vulture") is also sold by Mirage (kit 40048) with slightly different decals. This kit has the same hull parts as the Orzel but with a different conning tower, main deck and deck gun to depict its postwar appearance.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued as:
GOOD. (based on in-box review) The fit overall isn't that great, the seam between the deck & hull needs to be hidden, and the lattice mast is solid, and and it's not the most detailed thing you've ever seen, but the hull is quite nice, the SS-N-22 launchers look good, and the price is right. To my knowledge, it's the only full hull Tarantul kit on the market. I can only assume that Innex's Tarantul I kit is similar. (DRW)
Ideal Toy Company exited the model ship business ages ago. In fact, I'm pretty sure that they're not around at all anymore.
They had at least two addresses :
22-28 W. 19th Street
New York 11, New York
Hollis 23, New York
Both of these addresses predate the current ZIP code system, so they are both from the 1960s or earlier. Don't write to them, as I'm pretty sure there's nobody there.
Some of their molds have been refurbished by Glencoe. (DRW)
They were also sold under the names Ringo and, in England, Kleeware.
Editor's Note: A 3-masted yacht. Said to be 28.5 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Fulton's steam boat. Said to be 19 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 14 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Molded in white and tan. Said to be 22 inches long. This kit has been reissued by:
(DRW)Editor's Note: This kit was issued around 1961. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Said to have 124 parts. This kit is said to be 24.75 inches long, which scales out to 1/500. Glencoe listed the re-issued version as 1/450. Go figure. This kit first issued around 1963. This kit has been reissued by:
(DRW)Editor's Note: Issued around 1961. Motorized. This kit has been reissued by:
(DRW)Editor's Note: Marketed as "Diving Submarine" Motorized. This kit is said to be 24.75 inches long. Issued around 1960. (DRW)
Editor's Note: ITC original was motorized.
Editor's Notes: Said to be 20 inches long. ITC original was motorized. This kit has been re-issued by:
Editor's Notes: Said to be 20 inches long. ITC original was motorized. This kit has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been re-issued by
Editor's Notes: This kit has been re-issued by:
Editor's Notes: The mold may date back as far as 1954. It is said to be 28 inches long, which would be about 1/425 scale. Some early issues suggest a scale of 1 inch = 35 feet, which would be 1/420 scale. Apparently, some ITC issues of this kit were lighted. Read Jodie Peeler's review of the Glencoe reissue of this kit under Glencoe United States. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The mold may date back as far as 1953. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know much about this one. I've seen some references that suggest it might be the same as the Ringo kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Motorized. Probably issued in the 1950s sometime.
Check out their web page.
GOOD. Some details are a little off, and the Phalanx CIWS radomes look a little wimpy, but assembles nicely and looks really cool, especially with PEB. Sand and fill the details in the flight deck, though, and represent the catapult tracks with paint or light scribing. (JMP)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as the Kitty Hawk. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Has this actually been released?
EXCELLENT. Also issued by Testors (kit 895) in the 1980s and by Italeri as the Lützow (kit 507). It shares many components with Italeri's similar Graf Spee/Scheer kits but with parts unique to the Deutschland/Lützow, depicting Deutschland as the ship appeared in the 1930s with a Heinkel He-60 floatplane aboard.
The kit has parts for either full hull or waterline display. Strangely, the lower hull is molded with the upper as one piece, but separated by 14 spacers. These have to be removed for both options, either to reattach the lower hull without the gap or to attach a flat baseplate for waterline. Decks are superbly detailed and thoughtfully designed with a single piece main deck and a separate single piece lower after deck. This is in happy contrast to the Fujimi 1/700 scale pocket battleships, which have both the main and aft deck planking marred by seams going right across them. Fit of the hull/deck assemblies is is very good, and the porthole, planking, anchor chain and other detail is excellent. I especially liked the open chocks along the hull sides. The anchors are cast integrally to the hull, but they look good. Superstructures are separate assemblies with exterior bulkheads molded separately from the decks. This approach does create seams at the bulkhead/deck junctions, but it also allows for delicate raised and recessed detail to be molded on to the vertical surfaces. In the days before slide-molded plastic injection, this was the best thing going. Superstructure sides are festooned with doors, ports, ventilators, ladders, and other bits, all molded with great sublety. Fit is good too, so the seams aren't much of a problem. The bridge structure is a multilayer affair which assembles simply and captures the open look of the original quite effectively. The prominent bridge windows are molded solid, but the frames are sharply delineated and the windows look good either painted black (which I did) or hollowed out (which I wish I'd done!). Weapons too are very nicely executed, comparable to those on Tamiya's 1/700 Scharnhorst/Gneisenau kits and noticeably better than the Fujimi Deutschland/Spee/Scheer kits. A petite Heinkel He-60 biplane is provided, complete with a miniscule separate propeller. Smaller parts such as searchlights, boats, davits, inclined ladders, masts, aircraft catapult and handling crane are all finely and accurately represented. Although some of these could be better replaced with photoetch, the parts in the kit are just about as good as the injection molding process can produce. In sum, this is an outstanding model kit. Italeri's Deutschland, Admiral Graf Spee, Admiral Scheer, and Lützow are far and away the best of the injection molded pocket battleships in (or around) 1/700 scale.
(TR) Review dated 13 April 2007.
Editor's Notes: Presumably, variants have been issued as
For comparison, check out the following:
GOOD. Same kit as Nimitz. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Got a bad write-up in Detail & Scale. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD. Detail and Scale did a hatchet job on this kit in its review. After building a couple, I read the review, and thought some things were really out of line. To me, Italeri was trying to portray the CV-59 before her SLEP modernization. After all this research I can't, for the life of me, see how that got past the otherwise impeccable Bert Kinzey. Some of his comments are accurate, but he was way too harsh on the kit otherwise; it's pretty good overall, and not too difficult to modernize. (JMP)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
This kit has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Apparently, the same as the DML Bunker Hill kit. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Also issued by Testors (kit 894), Revell (kit 5028), and by Italeri as the Admiral Scheer (kit 508). Comments are the same as Italeri's similar Deutschland kit with which it shares many components. This kit is different in having parts unique to the Graf Spee, mostly around the bridge and funnel. It is accurate for the ship as at the battle off the Rio de la Plata in 1939, except that it includes a Heinkel He-60 instead of the correct Arado Ar-196 floatplane.
(TR) Review dated 13 April 2007.
FAIR.
Notes: Although christened by the British press as "pocket battleships" the admirals Graf Spee, Scheer and Lutzow were best described as heavy cruisers dedicated to commerce raiding ( a concept that seemed to completely ignore the advent of long range military aircraft). Box and kit artwork depict the ship in his final camouflage configuration before scuttling off Montevideo. However, some of the parts provided don’t necessarily agree (aircraft, for instance).
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit done in soft, medium gray plastic. There was surprisingly little flash on the parts considering the age of these molds. However, there were quite a few sink holes in the parts requiring lots of filling and sanding. Every one of the secondary battery turrets had to have sink holes filled. There wasn’t much detail on them either so having to fill the holes didn’t cause any losses there. Details on the AA guns were very soft to almost non-existent. The smaller armament was over scale and featureless. The kit provided cranes are pathetic sticks. Fit of all the parts was fair at best with lots of alignment issues. Most of the mounting points and holes in the decks were either too small or out of alignment requiring the thinning down of over molded parts. Forward superstructure alignment was especially poor. In spite of this the kit is superior to the old Fujimi kit by a lot.
Directions: Basic but sufficient to assemble this very simple kit. Painting instructions are virtually useless. Fortunately there are a couple of really good websites that can help the modeler on this score.
Packaging: Thin and garishly colorful cardboard box that opens at either end like a box of cookies as opposed to the usual full length lid type that most other manufacturers use. The parts are just loosely jammed into the box on their respective trees causing breakage and loss of the smaller ones quite easily.
If this were the only game in town I would say grit your teeth and get it, but it’s not. Look at the new Trumpeter offering in 1/700 before abusing yourself with this bit of self-flagellation.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: Presumably, a variant of their Deutchland kit.
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD for the scale. (AP)
EXCELLENT This model shows Hood as she appeared in the late 1930s and makes an excellent comparison to the Tamiya Hood. Excellent detail and scale appearance, would look not at all out of place next to the Tamiya. Like the Tamiya, actually looks like a miniature ship rather than a model kit! (Brooks)
EXCELLENT. This kit is the perfect choice for modelers who want a representation of Hood in "happier times" (pre war). It originally dates from 1979. It is currently in production and sells for around @ $15 (USD). This article covers my personal assessment of this kit.
Kit Background: This is a highly accurate representation of Hood circa 1933 - just after her aircraft and catapults were removed. This was the time that Hood ws at her best and at her most beautiful. Even in the odd scale of 1/720, this kit builds into a perfect size (@14-15").
Moulding & Detail: This kit is extremely nice - superior in some ways to the Tamiya 1/700 offering. The mouldings are quite crisp (although a tad thick) with a only a few notable/serious sink holes and/or ejector marks. It does have its fair share of seam lines on certain components however. Additionally, the locations of the aforementioned sinkholes can give modelers a bit of a problem. Although definitely trickier to assemble than the Tamiya kit, if built with care, the final model is extremely accurate. Rather than try to describe the entire model within this one paragraph, I'm going to assess each major area one at a time:
Hull: Correct in overall shape, taper and shear. A nice feature of this kit is that it can be built either waterline or full hull. This feature is a definite plus as it's meant to please all ship modelers. The hull detail is superb...Italeri included the armour belts, torpedo bulges and all scuttles. Everything appears to be the correct shape and size. The only problems noted aside from a few small sink holes (nothing serious), was the hull's finish (slightly textured) and the fact that (if built full hull) the lower and upper hull halves do not fit well...there is a bit of a gap at the bow. With the exception of the textured finish (which is hardly noticeable), all problems are easily correctable.
Deck: Extremely tricky though nicely moulded. This kit has numerous deck "layers" which need to be carefully applied. Follow the instructions plus perform some dry-fitting and sanding before gluing, and everything should go well. Pay particular attention to the deck edges abreast of "B" turret...the deck seems a bit wide in this area and tends to fit poorly. Most of the hatches and ventilators are positioned correctly. As with all kits in this scale range, the deck planking is a bit overdone.
Guns: All guns, from the "pom poms" to the 15" mains, are very nicely done indeed. Even so, some are still best replaced by after market parts. The main barrels are best replaced by brass tubing and the pom poms by White Ensign Models' "700 Professional" series or photoetch. There will be a very slight size discrepancy, but one that is acceptable to most modelers.
Superstructure: Quite accurate in general shape and layout. Very detailed...especially when compared to the rather spartan Tamiya Hood. A key plus are the through deck ladder passageways which Italeri incorporated. One problem noted here were that the splinter/weather shields and superstructure side walls are a tad thick... they really could've been much thinner. Tamiya managed to make these items very thin, so why didn't Italeri? A second and more serious problem is regarding the general fit of the conning tower. The pieces are not easy to arrange properly/in a flush manner. This could require some very careful gluing and sanding to remedy.
Masts/Other: Adequately moulded...could have been more delicate though. Tamiya's masts were superior. At any rate, these are best replaced with brass rod stock and photoetch yardarms. Boats and fire control directors are quite well done. The Italeri fire control directors are far superior to the Tamiya variants.
Summary: Despite the fact that it is tricky to build and is not quite as crisply moulded as the Tamiya kit, the Italeri kit is still probably the better of the two by virtue of its extreme detail. It also lends itself to modification far more readily than the Tamiya kit- meaning that it is easier to modify this kit to earlier and later versions of Hood. Your not stuck with 1939-1941 only. That being said, this is probably the best small scale plastic kit of Hood currently available. It is also one of the more affordable Hood kits as well. It's only major drawback is it's odd-ball 1/720 scale. If you don't mind the size discrepency between it and the more common 1/700 scale kits, then it's the way to go!
(FWA), review dated 1 April 2006. You can read the original version of this review on the HMS Hood website, with pictures and additional references, by clicking here. Review reused by permission of the author.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as the Forrestal. (DRW)
GOOD. It's not perfect, but it isn't bad either. The lower hull has no bilge keels. The molded plastic railings on the stern are actually half decent! The MiG-29s and Su-35s are quite nice, but there are no Su-25s. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
It has also been issued by Revell-Germany and Testors. (DRW)
POOR. Superstructure is way off, especially the bridges -- they don't stick out over the port side of the island the way the Hawk's do. The hull sponsons are the rounded ones from the America kit, not the angular ones that the Hawk has. The flight deck has to be chopped and reshaped in many places. Italeri recycled many parts from the America kit in this one, and it requires major reworking to look much like any modern carrier, let alone the Hawk or Constellation. (JMP)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
It has been re-issued by Testors, and maybe Zvezda.
For comparison, check out the following:
GOOD. Yes, it's short on details, and yes, it's only correct for the earlier ships of the class, but what's the alternative? The basic shapes are all pretty much right, so it's a decent starting point. At least it's better than Monogram's 1/819 scale kit. Kit dates back to at least 1983. Also issued at several times by Revell-Germany. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
We're guessing that Italeri's Ronald Reagan kit is closely related.
The Italeri Nimitz has been issued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR/GOOD. Be warned that this kit does not include the big forward gun sponsons the Ranger carried throughout all her service life. You'll have to scratchbuild them. Otherwise the same decent Forrestal kit previously discussed. (JMP)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this is a variant of the Nimitz Reissued by Revell-Germany. (DRW)
GOOD. Same kit as Nimitz. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as the Forrestal. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, a variant of their Deutchland kit.
FAIR. Same kit as Nimitz. It's probably more correct for CVN-68 and 69 than for later Nimitz class. Still, compared to Monogram's 1/819 scale kit, it's pretty nice. Maybe someone else would be willing to pay much more for a better kit, but I suspect that many would still buy this relatively inexpensive kit. Just don't pay a really huge price for it. I've seen retailers charge upward of $30 for these things in their various Italeri/Testors/Revell-Germany boxes.(DRW)
It _does_ contain the solid mast for the later ships; there are actually three separate mast versions. I just wish it included a parts list that named the little fiddly bits, and made it clear which mast to use. (JP)
GOOD. Same kit as Nimitz. (DRW)
GOOD. Same kit as Kuznetsov. (DRW)
GOOD. Same kit as Nimitz. (DRW)
Joe D'amato, one of the founders, has decided to go his own way, and started his own line, Modelwerks
Jag's website: http://www.jagcollective.com/.
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have good to excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Not included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials, you will have to supply these yourself (later versions of this kit I believe may have these parts, check with your dealer or JAG). The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler.
Build Notes: Once again a relatively easy assembly. However, the photo etch is so delicate, especially for the ship’s boats that it is very difficult to work with. Many of the other PE parts are tiny so eye magnifiers are a MUST. Again, this is a kit that, unlike most 700 scale kits, would be improved with the installation of railings.
Directions:: The usual drawings and ship's notes adequate for the job but not outstanding. Once again, this is a fairly simple ship to construct.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Cleanly cast in gray resin. Includes open well deck with one resin LCM, one resin LCVP and 12 white metal LVTs. Some hull detail looks slightly out of scale, but can be replaced with smaller strip if you want. Includes photoetched details and nets (but you have to supply your own railings) and a nice decal sheet letting you build any of the five ships of the class. Some scratchbuilding skills will be useful for building the NTDS mast on the bow. Nice work, though. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do. The casting and detail on this kit is outstanding and matches the quality level of the best producers in the business. This is a much more complex ship than it would at first appear. Very well done. Some skill in supplementing antenna structures will be needed.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler. I do not, however, recommend this kit for first time resin modelers as the complex photo etch so necessary to the finished product is not for the inexperienced.
Directions:: detailed drawing and text that is now a hallmark of these later kits from JAG.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. Amazingly, this little gem was only JAG's second ship release. The i model consists of eleven parts flawlessly cast in medium gray resin and a photoetch brass sheet containing rails, anchor chains, ladders, and racks for infatable liferafts. Dimensions scale out perfectly with published plans, and JAG made few compromises when it came to casting in details. Doors, hatches, handgrabs, bitts, cleats, even liferings and fog applicators are cleanly cast onto the hull/superstructure. The 3 inch gun, 40mm gun, fire director, mast, and Zodiac boat are separate parts. All are nicely executed with just the right level of detail. Casting throughout is amazing; the splinter shields around the 40mm mount are so thin you can see light through them-truly scale thickness.
The photoetch fret is well designed but unfortunately slightly rough, not quite up to the superb standard of the resin parts. My kit was one of the first released, so perhaps JAG has improved the PE in more recent issues. Likewise with the decals. My kit didn't have any, but again, JAG has since included markings in other kits so maybe their newer Ashevilles have them too.
(TR) Review dated 10 May 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do. The casting and detail on this kit is outstanding and matches the quality level of the best producers in the business.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler. I do not, however, recommend this kit for first time resin modelers as the complex photo etch so necessary to the finished product is not for the inexperienced.
Directions:: detailed drawing and text that is now a hallmark of these later kits from JAG.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap or pieces of foam tube to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
EXCELLENT: The Bear class of cutters are 270 foot vessels presently in service with U.S. Coast Guard. At 4-3/4" long, this JAG model accurately captures the look of these chunky little cutters.
The hull is cast almost flawlessly, but the resin did thin out on the bridge's walkway, leaving a tiny see-through area. This area is easy to fix with a drop of CA and careful sanding. There are about 16 or so other resin pieces, including the retractable hangar, ships boats, forward gun, mainmast, and HH60 Jayhawk helicopter. The Jayhawk helicopter is impressive, as it is a little kit unto itself with landing gear and brass rotors. The brass fret is superb, especially with the landing pad nets and the fine railings. Also included on the fret are the navigation radar, lattice platform and support for the MK92 radar. There are about 12 brass parts in total. The decal sheet provides the racing stripes, Coast Guard hull markings, 2 flags, a few extra Coast Guard logos, and names and numbers for 13 ships of the class. The names are finely done, unlike many ships where the name scales out to be about 10 feet tall. The only discrepancy in the decals is that the side markings are printed "COAST GUARD" rather than the correct "U. S. COAST GUARD". Lastly, the instructions are straightforward, and all parts are identified by number on the sheet.
JAG says they don't use mold releases, and claim no pre-washing is necessary. The ship went together very easily, and only the hangar extension needed a fine sanding to make it square with the hangar deck and bulkhead. Other than that, all parts fit perfectly. The mainmast is a little gem with a brass yardarm and mast supports. These are very finely etched and they are tiny, so be careful not to lose one. The resin can be a little brittle, especially on the small parts like the boat crane and davits. I painted my ship an overall Testors white, and the decks were brush painted with Testors Euro I gray. This color matches photos of the USCG Campbell, found on the Internet. The mast was painted Testors flat black. After all was painted and decaled, 2 coats of Testors Glosscote helped even it all out.
All in all the JAG USCGC Bear is a nice little model, not too complex to build, and helps to fill the gap for Coast Guard modelers. Due to it's simplicity, it should be perfect for newcomers to resin/brass ship models. (RD)
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have good to excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains a minimal fret of radar bits and platforms. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler.
Build Notes: For the most part the modeler will be attaching some platforms, electronic equipment and weapons as well as the ship’s boats and their launching systems. The parts are tiny so care must be taken. I found the decals to difficult to work with and keep straight as some overlap in the warning zones. That is probably because I am a klutz, but let this be a warning to the rest of you klutzes that the decals will require care to work with.
Directions:: The usual drawings up to the easy assembly task.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: the modeler should note that this kit represents the earlier as built version of the ship. Late models of fit should be forthcoming. this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do. The casting and detail on this kit is outstanding and matches the quality level of the best producers in the business. Although fairly small (not like the dainty little McCloy) for a modern era ship this kit is just packed with detail and will build up into a fantastic model.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler. I do not, however, recommend this kit for first time resin modelers as the complex photo etch so necessary to the finished product is not for the inexperienced.
Directions:: detailed drawing and text that is now a hallmark of these later kits from JAG.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap and/or foam tubing, to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
VERY GOOD: Casting is outstanding, especially the hull. Hull sheer is perfect. Etched brass is a little rough but acceptable, especially when supplemented with an aftermarket set. No decals. Instructions are sparse (though I hear better ones may be released) so have good sources. (JC)
VERY GOOD.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have good to excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler.
Build Notes: Assembly of this kit, like most JAG kits is relatively easy. The only difficulties faced by the modeler will be in working with the photo etch which is somewhat stiff and brittle.
Directions:: adequate to complete the kit using drawings to show parts placement and how to prepare and fold the PE.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
After refit/upgrade w/ 76mm gun.
Original appearance.
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have good to excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Not included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials, so you will have to supply those. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler. Later versions of this kit may exist with different rig and parts, please check with your dealer or JAG themselves.
Build Notes: Most JAG kits are very easily built. This one is only moderately more challenging and most of that is because of the hard to fold photo etch. In addition the helicopter landing deck aft has the zone indicator stripes etched into the deck so that you can paint into the recess the appropriate lines, not the best way to do so. Decals are much better. The missiles are hard to remove from the pour plug and may break during removal, mine did. The large areas of clutter free deck scream out for railings, supplementary sets are cheap and easily found.
Directions:: simple enough structure of the kit obviates the need for sophisticated directions so the drawings provided are adequate to the task.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have good to excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler.
Build Notes: incredibly easy construction, even the photo etch.
Directions:: the usual drawings more than adequate for the job.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have good to excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do. This is a great kit of a truly weird looking USN vessel.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler.
Build Notes: Easy to build kit with the exception of the photo etch. The difficulty with it is in the size of the parts as they are very delicate. The davit/launch arrangements for the included infantry boats were challenging not to bend out of shape. The look of your finished model will be greatly enhanced by adding ships rails.
Directions:: adequate to the fairly simple job of construction and painting as these were not elaborate vessels.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
2 per pack
3 per kit
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have good to excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do. This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler.
Build Notes: PE is a little hard to work with as it is very delicate and the decals were no picnic for my klutzy fingers but really shouldn't be a problem for a competent builder.
Directions:: The usual adequate drawings.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do. The casting and detail on this kit is outstanding and matches the quality level of the best producers in the business. This massive kit is simply incredible. It is a highly complex build and a real challenge to get right, but oh, so, so good.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler. I do not, however, recommend this kit for first time resin modelers as the complex photo etch so necessary to the finished product is not for the inexperienced.
Directions:: detailed drawing and text that is now a hallmark of these later kits from JAG.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
3 per kit
GOOD/EXCELLENT. The hull, superstructure, deckhouses and funnels are molded as one piece, which is one of the most amazing feats of moldmaking and casting I've seen. Literally all the builder has to do is paint the hull, build and install the gunhouses and some smaller bits, then install the photoetch. The latter looks to be the only complication, as some parts (such as the SPS-29/37 antenna) include many small individual pieces. You supply your own railings, but the class-specific etch is included. A nice decal sheet provides helo pad markings, ensigns and jacks, and numbers to let you build any of the FRAM II units, but no names for the stern are provided -- there would be too many to provide. While you'll need to check your references to nail the specific details of the ship you want to build, this kit will get you off to a great start. It's not a bad choice for a first resin ship in 1:700. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
3 per kit
Editor's Note: Based on proposals for the next-generation carrier. (JP)
I realize that many do not consider "concept" ships a true ship model, but I just received the JAG 1/700 Stealth Carrier and boy did they do a fine job. The kit lists for $120, but some online hobby stores offer it for less. The concept is from a Navy CVX website and the ship looks like something from a sci-fi movie. From my understanding, the design is CAD/CAM produced and the plexiglass flight deck, deck elevator markings, flight deck number/markings and tiedowns are machine etched. The deck markings and tie downs are very precise and crisp which makes finishing the markings almost as simple as a white/light gray wash into the etched surface. This eliminates the need for decal deck markings. Being plexiglass, the flight deck and three separated deck elevators provide an option to have a "see through" deck with only the markings being painted. The hanger deck interior is well detailed. Conflag stations, firewall doors, and hanger bay doors are all well represented. The SH-60 Seahawks are the best I have ever seen. The only setback is there is only one complete set of photoetched rotors, but two aircraft. Still the SH-60s are wonderful even down to the sonobouy panel. (I have yet to see an ASW helo with a MAD boom except for the SH-2F on AFV's 1/700 USS Knox). The 38 NATFs (Navalized Advanced Tactical Fighters) look good with the vertical tail planes, elevons, and landing gear all produced in photoetch. There are 8 good representations of OV-22 Ospreys with both folded and extended photoetch rotors (although again there are only enough rotors for seven of the eight aircraft). Two "Tilly" cranes and eight tow tractors are produced in fine detail with the tow tractors even sporting tow bars molded on top of the tractors. The waterline hull is one clean mold and desiged to accept the plexiglass deck with enough precision you could almost get away with painting the hull and deck separately without using filler/glue to attach the hull & deck! This would lend itself to easily removing the deck to display the in There are no aircraft decals for the kit, but aftermarket 1/700 decals for the aircraft would meet the need. Again, WOW... Bravo Zulu to JAG and pattern maker Alan Smith! (RB)
EXCELLENT. (based on In-Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a fret of ship specific photo etch parts. The flash free resin is molded in a medium gray. The hull is a one piece casting with most of the superstructure cast as one with the hull. Other parts are cast on pouring stubs and are easily removed from them. All parts have excellent detail molded in. The photo etch fret contains items such as radar, netting, mast structures, platforms and other items too thin to be cast in resin. There are no railings included. Also included in my kit were decals and plastic rod to complete the masts and aerials. The resin is very smooth, almost shiny but does not present the same painting problem for acrylics that the Hi-Mold resin kits do. The casting and detail on this kit is outstanding and matches the quality level of the best producers in the business.
This kit is a must have for the cold war and modern era ship modeler. I do not, however, recommend this kit for first time resin modelers as the complex photo etch so necessary to the finished product is not for the inexperienced.
Directions:: detailed drawing and text that is now a hallmark of these later kits from JAG.
Packaging: unique shipping tubes of heavy cardboard with round plastic ends stapled into the cardboard to ensure no loss of parts. Inside the tube the kit parts are in plastic bags packed with bubble wrap or foam tube to keep them from moving. A VERY secure system that only has one real drawback, because they are round they can be hard to store (not to mention a little difficult to stuff back into the tubes if you are just looking).
(WJS), review dated 10 March 2008.
While well-detailed in most cases, these do not come with photo-etch. Also, given their scarcity they are commanding higher and higher prices. They are now completely out of the ship model business. Some of his people formed JAG Collective. (JP)
EXCELLENT (based on in-box review) This barely qualifies as a kit, as it has only a handful of parts. The main part, which is most of the ship, is beautifully cast, and seems to represent the 1996 USN version of the Arsenal ship, rather than Admiral Metcalf's original. The hull is about 13.5 inches (34.3 cm) long. The kit instructions suggest using Sea Classics' November 1996 article as a reference, but I think it might be wiser to use Norman Polmar's January 1996 article "More Bang for the Buck" from USNI Proceedings.
(DRW), review dated 16 November 2021.
GOOD. Excellent subject matter with no major flaws, I like this kit. I find myself building Jim Shirley kits instead of simply fondling the resin parts. This says something for their "buildability" (as well as my psychological state). I've completed their 1/700 Chester and will soon start on the 1/700 Gearing Fram. Like other JS kits, the Chicago seems accurate and "clean", if somewhat lacking in surface detail. Superdetailers will have a field day with this kit. Modern ships always wind up being more complex and detail-laden than is apparent at first glance. This is especially true of the Chicago. And those of you content to build out-of-the box will not be disappointed. You will add a highly distinctive ship to your collection without undue effort. (RM)
FAIR. The only model of a (nearly) modern oiler out there in any scale. Represents her before the "jumboization" process. Fit is good, but there were casting problems with the one-piece bridge, so it is distorted at the inside corners, and hard to fix. References will be needed to detail the working deck and the bridge. You'll want to add ladders and stairs between the bridge levels, and some hoses and lines to the fueling and stores stations. (JP)
GOOD. First off, someone should note that this is a Gearing FRAM II, not a Gearing FRAM I. It would take a certain amount of research, scratchbuilding, and parts substitution to make a FRAM I out of this kit.
The barbettes for the 5 inch guns were noticably too tall. Sand 'em down! The 5 inch mounts themselves are very detailed and nicely turned out. The hull was nice, (the only bubbles were on the bottom, where nobody will see them anyway) but there was a big nasty bubble in the 01 level deck. It went all the way through. It was easy enough to patch, though. Some have accused JSP of plagerizing SkyWave parts, but's I'm not sure that's the case here. Yeah, the SPS-40 radar looks suspiciously SkyWave-ish, but the anchors in particular are noticably different. The larger torpedo tubes are clearly original, but I'm not sure about the 12.75 inch. One serious accuracy error: The mk 37 gun director still has the WW2 era mk 12 radar on it. It should have a post-war mk 25. I've heard that the JSP Sumner has the same problem.
The instructions need serious help. Get a copy of Sumrall's "Sumner/Gearing Class Destroyers", either from your local library or from USNI, (worth every penny, IMHO) for you'll certainly need it to complete this kit accurately. A copy of Friedman's "US Destroyers: An Illustrated Design History" could be useful too. Photo-etch is nice. Decals? What decals? For this price, we should get decals.
No aircraft are included. A DASH would be quite appropriate, but I doubt that even the resin casters will ever make one of those odd little helos...
I was not as offended by the price as some were. Many SkyWave injection molded destroyer kits cost $25-30, so I'm certainly not offended by the $33 retail I had to pay. A set of Tom's Modelworks brass railings was another $7. Not that bad in the grand scheme of things. I really wish someone would make a lower hull for this kit. Some of us actually like working on bilge keels, rudders, sonar domes, etc. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these other New Orleans class resin kits:
FAIR/GOOD. This kit has the most unusual 2 piece hull I've ever seen. The hull is split laterally into fore and aft sections, or perhaps more accurately, bow and main sections. This means that there will be a huge, ugly seam to fill, but fortunately, it is placed in such a manner that it will at least be easy to sand. The flight deck, however, is all in one piece. This kit was clearly designed to be motorized. The flight deck is attached with screws for battery replacement. Fortunately, they are well placed, so the holes can be filled and sanded without losing much detail.
The next big problem: the propellers and surrounding area. The instructions show proper 5 bladed props. This kit has some perfectly awful three bladed props. Also, the area of the hull above the props is the wrong shape. It's far too flat. Fortuantely, this too can be fixed.
The aircraft are pretty good, except for the landing gear, which look a little big.
There are some noticable sink marks, (especially on the underside of the aft sponsons) but again, they are easily filled and sanded.
The superstructure looks fairly nice, (it's the post-79-to-82 refit Enterprise, the only kit I know of that has the refit) and other than the glaring problems I mentioned, the hull is pretty good. It's got some nice details. At first glance, it looks reasonably accurate. The instruction book is HUGE!! The decals do not include the stripes for the landing area.
My faulty memory vaguely recalls this kit being marketed to me as a Hap Dong kit, but I can find no records on this. (DRW)
Airwing consists of eight each S3, A6, A7, F4, F14, F18, 2 each E2 and Sea Kinhelo. Also two fire engines, eight deck tugs and one crash crane. Deck vehicles appear to be Tamiya clones. (GJ)
FAIR.This ship comes in a box with color photos of completed model printed on it, but the model cannot be built to look like the photos without adding parts not found in the kit!
SPQ radar dome absent from kit or directions ( I made one from 6mm plastic airgun shot) and Harpoon Missle system not included ( I used parts from a Zhendefu Spruance-class destroyer kit). No decals or flagsheet. When painting afterdeck on any rebuilt Iowa-class battleship, refer to color photos. This varies from ship to ship depending on condition of wood decking at time of rebuild.
Flight deck markings will have to be painted on. Use safety nets from GMM PE set outboard of flight deck during flight operations, or stowed vertically when not in use.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Bismarck.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ticonderoga Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Sovremenny Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Sovremenny Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Spruance Class.
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Iowa-class.
This kit has been issued at as:
POOR. This is a motorized ship kit manufactured by Zhengdefu, marketed under the Kitech brand name as part of their 30cm scale "The World Noted Warship Series". The series is reminiscent of the Nichimo 30cm series ships, but of much lesser quality. In fact, this particular kit is probably the worst Missouri I have ever seen. The two part hull, split at the waterline, looks like a slightly slenderized Yamato complete with bulbous underwater bow, making for a weirdly chubby hullform. (A measure of this company's dedication to accuracy is that they actually used this same underwater hull on their 30cm Bismarck kit as well!) All parts were just awful; poorly designed with inaccurate shapes, poor fit, and everything covered in thick flash. This model was unusual in that it didn't contain even one part I could salvage for another project. Even the motor didn't work! The instructions list the address of the manufacturer as Kiu Hung Toys, Ltd. of Hong Kong, which really tells the story-this is not a scale model, but rather a poorly designed toy that requires assembly.
Editor's Note: See notes under Iowa Class.
(TR) Review dated 21 March 2007.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ticonderoga Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Iowa Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Spruance Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy Class.
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Sovremenny-class.
This kit has been issued as:
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Spruance-class. This kit has been issued at as:
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Ticonderoga-class. This kit has been issued at as:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: 30 cm box scale. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Udaloy. This kit has apparently been issued as:
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy Class.
Editor's Note: A reissue of the old Pyro American President Liner. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Pyro kit.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the ITC kit.
Editor's Note: Presumably a re-issue of the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the old Pyro Burmese Paddy Boat kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the ITC Savannah kit. (DRW)
GOOD.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. The complete model is molded in creamy white resin. There is no photo etch or brass rod stock included in this kit. You will need brass rod or tubing to complete the construction of the masts, yards and cranes. This is a later production kit from K-H and is far superior to their earlier efforts. The molding is much crisper, more detailed and has far fewer extra bits of resin where it shouldn't be. The hull and lower superstructure are cast in one piece and are very nicely done. However, the small parts, although much more detailed and crisply molded than the earlier kits still come in the manner of injection molded kits, that is, on sprue like assemblies. The parts are very flashy and hard to remove without breaking. A careful modeler will not need too much resort to the spares box but be prepared to make substitutions for the parts you will inevitably break. Main gun barrels would be better served with brass turnings as the limitations of resin casting don't give a very satisfactory result in this kit.
Directions:: superb multi-part line drawings requiring no text to understand the process. Some English interspersed with mostly Japanese text. As with most models resin or plastic the modeler is advised to take painting instructions with a grain of salt and do his own research. While the directions are well drawn and clear they do not include rigging instructions. Ships of this era had complex rigging schemes so considerable research will be needed if the modeler wishes to portray this accurately.
Packaging: sturdy, plain white cardboard box with minimal marking consisting of a small picture of the built ship model with a mixture of Japanese and English text.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
GOOD.
Note: again the classification of this vessel arises, while not an all big gun battleship it was similar to a battlecruiser and too big and well armed to be a pre-dreadnought battleship. Another very hard to classify IJN ship.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. The complete model is molded in creamy white resin. There is no photo etch. However, brass rod stock is included in this kit to complete the construction of the masts, yards and cranes. This is a later production kit from K-H and is better than their earlier efforts. The molding is much crisper, more detailed and has far fewer extra bits of resin where it shouldn't be. The hull and lower superstructure are cast in one piece and are very nicely done. However, the smaller parts, although much more detailed and crisply molded than the earlier kits still come in the manner of injection molded kits, that is, on sprue like assemblies. The parts are very flashy and hard to remove without breaking. A careful modeler will not need too much resort to the spares box but be prepared to make substitutions for the parts you will inevitably break. Main gun barrels would be better served with brass turnings as the limitations of resin casting don't give a very satisfactory result in this kit even though they are better than the earier kits and molded with the turrets.
Directions:: good multi-part line drawings requiring no text to understand the process. Some English interspersed with mostly Japanese text. As with most models resin or plastic the modeler is advised to take painting instructions with a grain of salt and do his own research. While the directions are competently drawn and clear they do not include rigging instructions. Ships of this era had complex rigging schemes so considerable research will be needed if the modeler wishes to portray this accurately.
Packaging: flimsy, blue cardboard box with minimal marking consisting of a large picture of a line drawing of the ship with a mixture of Japanese and English text.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
GOOD.
See my review of Ikoma's sister ship Tsukuba K-H kit # MR-01. Ikoma is in a slightly different configuration that reflects the late WW1 fit as opposed to the pre-war fit of Tsukuba. The differences are reflected in the kit contents.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
FAIR/POOR.
Kit Parts: The kit has a one piece hull that has numerous extraneous globs of resin mixed in with the hull detail. Among other parts, the molded on booms for the anti-torpedo netting, for example, are spoiled by having to remove lots of extra resin between some of them. There is no shelf for the netting and no material to make it. Detail is soft in many places and the deck planking is poorly defined in places. Ships of this era had minimal superstructure and that included with the hull casting has no surface detail to speak of. The boat deck is a single casting that forms the basis for the rest of the superstructure and was warped and fit poorly in my kit. Main battery gun turrets and barrels are resin and poorly cast with the barrels varying widely in size. The smaller parts are cast in a manner similar to an injection molded kit and as a consequence are very difficult to remove without breaking them. They are also covered in flash. You will need a well stocked parts box to complete this ship, especially the ships boats, searchlights and the small guns atop the turrets. The locating pins and circles are in many cases poorly placed. Don't attempt to assemble this kit without repeated dry fittings after each assembly section. Given the rough casting and soft detail, my advice on this would be to simply build it OOB without obsessing over it. The final product looks enough like the prototype to pass casual muster.
Directions:: surprisingly detailed line drawings showing the various assembly stages and excellent directions for the masts and yards, although there is no rigging diagram. Painting directions are sparse. You are best served by hitting the ‘net for greater detail on that (overall color should be Yokosuka gray). The text accompanying the line drawings is almost entirely in Japanese.
Packaging: flimsy cardboard box featuring a line drawing of the ship on the box top with most of the text being written in Japanese.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
GOOD.
Sister ship of IJN Ibuki, Kobo-Hiryu kit #H-02, please see my remarks and review of that ship as they are virtually the same. Minor differences in the superstructure are reflected in the kit parts.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
GOOD.
Kit Parts: see my review of the IJN Aki kit.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
GOOD.
Note: there is discussion as to the exact status of this vessel. The packaging suggests the characterization of armored cruiser, some sources classify this vessel as a battlecruiser.
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit. The complete model is molded in creamy white resin. There is no photo etch. However, brass rod stock is included in this kit to complete the construction of the masts, yards and cranes. This is a later production kit from K-H and is far superior to their earlier efforts. The molding is much crisper, more detailed and has far fewer extra bits of resin where it shouldn't be. The hull and lower superstructure are cast in one piece and are very nicely done. However, some of the small parts, although much more detailed and crisply molded than the earlier kits still come in the manner of injection molded kits, that is, on sprue like assemblies. The parts are very flashy and hard to remove without breaking. A careful modeler will not need too much resort to the spares box but be prepared to make substitutions for the parts you will inevitably break. The boats and most of the smaller parts are cast in white metal and are much easier to work with. Main gun barrels would be better served with brass turnings as the limitations of resin casting don't give a very satisfactory result in this kit.
Directions:: superb multi-part line drawings requiring no text to understand the process. Some English interspersed with mostly Japanese text. As with most models resin or plastic the modeler is advised to take painting instructions with a grain of salt and do his own research. While the directions are well drawn and clear they do not include rigging instructions. Ships of this era had complex rigging schemes so considerable research will be needed if the modeler wishes to portray this accurately.
Packaging: sturdy, plain white cardboard box with minimal marking consisting of a small picture of the built ship model with a mixture of Japanese and English text.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
Editor's Note: I had the owner of a hobby shop open up one of these, and it is clearly the old FROG Revenge mold. That means it is more like 1/500 scale, and the kit has the funnel cap that the Royal Oak never had. The box art is very strange indeed. It looks sort of like an Italian battleship, but with eight 15" guns. (DRW)
CC Lee is another very obscure Chinese company that has virtually no distribution in North America, although their kits can apparently be found throughout Asia and Australia. They also have a prominent RC line. Most all of their kits are produced in 1/300 scale and are motorized. (DH)
FAIR - Presumedly the same kit as the Perry. Note - this kit is not a pantograph of the 1/700 DML/Skywave. Reasonable amount of detail but the hull, superstructure and small parts scale out differently. There are no decals included. (DH)
The first impression is the box art which is none too good. Once inside the box which is probably too large for the kit itself I was disappointed that Lee includes no decals for the missile launch, the helo pad at the rear, hull numbers or kangaroos/ship's crest for the superstructure. I had to get some basics from a mate in Canada. But then the scale was not quiter right either - which was no surprise as the kit is an unusual 1/300.
While most of the parts from the sprue came away nicely, I found that the main bridge assembly did not quite fit the deck size and I had to use some fill to make it look okay. The rear of the ship especially the safety barriers around the helo pad did not sit quite right and that may be partly due to my skill level. However I have made a 1/350 Missouri from Tamiya and it was a dream.
Adelaide is well priced at around AUD$20 and the instructions are clear. The masts went together quite easily (sometimes that is a difficult area) but as an Australian who has seen this class quite a bit here the final result would be better after some searching for extra bits and pieces.
The absence of the decals was significant in my opinion. However the result is satisfactory for the price. Having said all that I will not buy Lee products again as I cannot be sure what is provided in the box. (JM)
GOOD. Westerners will know this ship as one of the Arethusia class RN crusiers that saw heavy action throughout WWII. Aurora itself was sold to the Chinese Nationalist after the war and gained fame by switching sides to the PLAN, becoming, for a brief time, the biggest ship in their navy. Very nice model, goes together well. 1/350 PE will not look too out of place and is recommended. Wooden deck pieces come molded in brown, motor is set in place with metal shafts already installed. These are acceptable as-is. Only issue is featureless doors and hatches - once again, 1/350 substitutes will work fine. This kit comes up on ebay occassionally - by all means get it if you can. (DH)
OK/FAIR. This kit is apparently a reissue of the Arii Bunker Hill with identical box art, parts layout, and instructions. However, this one is produced to a noticeably lower standard than the Arii kit. The molding on the C. C. Lee version I built was rather poor, with flash, misalignment, and even some surface defects evident. Parts fit was so-so; seemingly every component needed to be adjusted in some way to get it to fit. The instructions were printed on a newsprint type paper with a feebly reproduced version of the box art. It had the feel in general of a knock-off kit. In contrast, the Arii Bunker Hill kit I examined was a finer product in every respect, with crisper molding and sharper instruction sheet and box art reproduction. In fact, the C. C. Lee effort is so inferior I wonder if it may be an unlicensed copy of the Arii kit. That said, the outline of the C. C. Lee model is essentially correct, with surface detailing accurate and restrained. I also appreciate having a full hull kit in 1/700 scale, although it is the only option with this one. The final result wasn't bad, but the poor production standard of the model kit caused a lot of unnecessary extra work. Whether it is authorized or not, C.C. Lee's Bunker Hill kit appears to be a rather shoddy copy of the Arii model. If I were to do another Tico I would go for the Arii original or perhaps one of the Fujimi or Skywave/Dragon renditions, all of which are better.
(TR) Review dated 22 March 2007, updated 18 January 2009
See also notes under Lee Ticonderoga-class.
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
FAIR (based on in-box review). Kit molded in grey, red and black plastic (total of 45 plastic parts), plus electric motor, rubber and metal parts for motorization. Kit came with small tubes of glue and grease. Instructions printed on both sides of single sheet of paper, Japanese and English, construction sequence five steps, first two steps having to do with motorization. No decals in box or mention of decaling in instructions. Kit represents pre-1979 Enterprise with distinctive beehive ECM structure and billboard radar panels. Kit comes with five F-14, three A-6, four A-7, two E-2 and one A-5 aircraft that, given the small scale, don't look half bad (eyeballing them, I'd say the A-7s are too big). Of interest, on the side of the box is the artwork for a C.C. Lee kit of the CVN-65 "New" Enterprise with post 1979-82 refit island and an AF-18 flying overhead (catapult overruns/bridal arrestors on bow would make this a pre 1990-93 overhaul Enterprise). There is, also, artwork on box side for C.C. Lee kits of CVN-69 Dwight D. Eisenhower and CVN-70 Carl Vinson.
Below waterline hull is one piece, molded in red plastic. A little sanding will be required to sharpen bow edge and improve contours of bow bulb. Square stern has workable likeness to that of super carrier. Designed for motorization, kit provides only one rudder and one shaft with an oversized three blade propeller.
Above the waterline kit is molded in grey plastic. Island, sponsons, boat decks and platforms readily recognizable as CVN-65. Flight deck markings are denoted with raised lines, the plastic surface textured to simulate non-skid and the elevators are crosshatched to simulate Enterprise's light weight elevator grating. Elevator number two is a separate piece that can be glued in an up or down position. Flight deck outline conforms well to drawings in Friedman's U.S. Aircraft Carriers. A real nuisance for the static display modeler is the 3/4 inch long slot in the flight deck for the motor on/off switch lever to stick up through. Filling in the slot easy enough, but matching and blending it in with rest of textured flight deck will be an unwanted challenge.
No scale indicated on box or instruction sheet. Kit is probably 30 cm "box scale", but measures close to 1/1200 scale. Treating it as 1/1200 the kit lengths are pretty good: approximately 1.5% too long at waterline, approx 2% too long in overall length. The flight deck though is approx 8% too wide, with waterline beam 14% too wide...(added hull width is not needed to accommodate motor and batteries. Did they make beam disproportionately wide to improve model's stability in bathtub; then increased width of flight deck to retain semblance of overhang distinctive to super carriers?).
For 1/1200 scale modelers I can definitely recommend this kit. After all, how many kits do you have to choose from? It is infinitely better than Revell's 1/1200 Yorktown Class offerings. If only C.C. Lee provided a decal sheet of deck and hull markings. (MDS)
GOOD. (based on In-box review)
The CC Lee ENTERPRISE appears to be the same kit as the Otaki Enterprise, which shows the Enterprise essentially as she looked from 1967 to 1979. This is an impressive kit that should build into a great model, if you can get past a couple of small problems and one significant one.
When you open the box, the first impression is- Geez, it's BIG. The various sprues are clean, with little flash.
The hull is molded in one piece, and has fittings for an electric motor for pool use. Get rid of the electric motor. The hull is well-cast, with excellent detail. The screw propellers provided with the kit are three-bladed, rather than the proper five-blade screws that the real ship has.
The deck edge antennae appear too short. Replace with fine brass rod. The elevators are particularly nice, as they are textured differently in order to portray the grated areas on the real elevators.
The island, like the rest of the kit, is sharply cast and has the two-yardarm mast present after the 1967 overhaul.
The real big problem is the flight deck, or the kit would otherwise be rated EXCELLENT. The model has fittings for an electric motor, and the flight deck is in three big pieces to allow access to the interior. Mine also had ejection marks on the top. You’ll have to hide the ejection marks and the seams between the deck pieces. The decals for the deck are sparse- the only decals are for the landing pattern, which may be more easily painted on, and a big "65" for the forward flight deck. No warning decals for the elevators or JBDs. No centerline. The deck edges also have areas in which there are frames for safety netting, but no netting. My suggestion- fasten the whole flight deck together and strengthen it from below, fill and sand the top smooth, paint landing patterns and safety stripes as you see fit, detail the edges, then install.
The decal sheet is a mixed blessing. There are a bunch of tail codes for aircraft, which is nice, along with national insignia. I've discussed the flight deck problems above. No decals at all for the island.
No dedicated P/E sheet is available for this kit. There are a number of generic USN P/E sheets in 1/400 scale, though, and one should take advantage of these, as the kit cries for this kind of detail. There ARE dedicated P/E sheets for the 1/350 Tamiya kit, and you might consider getting one of these and cutting down some of the items, particularly deck edge netting and propeller and helicopter blades.
Speaking of aircraft, my CC LEE kit had an air wing that consisted of the following- A7(12), F18(2), S3(2), F4(6), E2(2), F14(4), SH3(2). This does not match the instruction sheet, and the quality of the aircraft is not as good as the rest of the kit. The sprue attachments are tabbed with the ID "03101", same as the kit serial number, though, so I'm not sure what to make of it.
If you are at all interested in building a model of the "Big E", you should invest in a copy of "the USS Enterprise in detail and scale" by Bert Kinzey. Not only is it full of great photos of the ship, it has a "modeler's section" discussing the various kits available. (MOL)
Editor's Note: Kit is said to be 34 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I wonder if this is related to the Doyusha kit...... (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably the same kit as the Arii Iowa class.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
See Spruance.
See Iowa.
See Ticonderoga.
See Iowa.
See Spruance.
VERY GOOD. This kit has one major drawback: It is in 1/300 instead of 1/350 scale!
Photo etching is not made in this scale. Minor problems are the antennas. The SPS 49 is thick, the STIR is horrible and the CAS (the easiest one) is shaped wrong. The hull, superstructure, and deck are very nice. There are a lot of easy extras that can be added to this kit with very little skill. As this class is very square a lot of the external fixtures are easy to make and place. Numerous light fixtures on the superstructure and mast are easy to reach as are fire stations. There are numerous website photos available for reference. This is especially true on the forecastle. I suggest that if you decide to add the extra fixtures, do so before mounting any of the masts.
A good ideal for extra detail is to open up the hanger doors and build an actual hanger. You could also open up the mid-ships passageway (the cargo doors, not the quick-action doors) as well as the bridge (yes it can be done).
The propeller is chopped off at the ends and will need to be replaced (I have no ideal from where). The Mk75 should be rounded more. I have yet to see a correct shaped MK75 is any scale or substance. The mast for the STIR is incorrect as it is missing the Egg Beaters on each aft corner and the storage box forward. It is also place too far forward. The STIR antenna is very bland at best. The Mk 32 Torpedo Tubes need some detail. The main mast is not bad, but a scratch built one out of brass tube stock could be better. The CAS mast also needs attention as it is shaped wrong.
The 02 level aft of the stack is missing a whole host of deck fittings, from Kapok storage, refueling stations, hatches, to antenna mast and supports. Website photos will help with this.
Other options to build are: (another reason why I love this kit)
Additional suggestions. Hangar build. Construction of the hangar is not an easy one as neither hangar is the same.
First the doors must to cut off. This is pretty straight forward. I suggest doing the same to the Centerline cargo hatch as well. This is the passageway that runs between the two hangars and is almost devoid of detail in real life. It will only have to run to the torpedo magazine as it curves to starboard and is no longer visible. Just inside the cargo hatch is a set of transfer doors on each side of the passageway. This was for moving large items between the hangars. They open in the middle and into the hangar. About 20 scale feet aft of the starboard set is a quick action hatch. It leads up to the catwalk and down to the DC deck and engineering. Aft of this hatch on both bulkheads are various parts of the ship's ladder. Some ships differ here so a little research is necessary. After this is the "Forward" entrance hatches, one on each bulkhead for the hangars. Aft of this is more parts to the ship's ladder. And that is the pretty much the whole passageway.
Starboard Hangar. This is the toughest one. It you can build this one the Port side will be a breeze. Here is a brief description. Starting at the forward bulkhead, as you enter into the hangar form the centerline P-way you have an exhaust duct. As you round it the bulk head has a hatch for the 400 Hz room. All the way to the starboard side are two vertical storage wheels for mooring lines. Along the starboard side is a storage rack for helicopter engines. It is about 12 feet off the deck. There are various fixtures along the bottom at deck level. Fire stations, storage and in most ships a Universal weight lifting station as a gym! At the aft end of the hangar, near the hangar doors, is another fire station, the hand crank and control panel for lifting the door. Across from this are several 3 inch pipes that run all the way to the overhead. On the port side of this hangar behind the transfer doors is an exhaust duct. Forward of this is a support structure for the catwalk that goes to the CIWS magazine and the Helicopter control station aft and forward to the Helo Maintenance Office and storage room. To build this structure you will have to build a bulkhead at
On the catwalk aft of the ladder well is a regular door that leads out onto the catwalk. Here is a fire station and a small hatch (CIWS Mag) and another small hatch (CIWS Control Station). Another fire station and hatch for the Helo Control Station. Forward of the Ladder well is the hatch for the Helo Maintenance Office and a second hatch for the storage room. The over head has three exhaust ducts and numerous pipes for fuel (for the refueling station above and painted purple), fire main, and Sprinkler system as the most dominate items.
Port Hangar. This is far easier. No catwalk, no ladder well but otherwise identical and somewhat bare. This is the hangar most often used of actual LAMPS when embarked.
Note that at the entrance to each hangar is a slight rise in the deck to protect against water and fuel spill entry it is on both sides of the well that the hangar door lowers into.
Yes I know this is hard to visualize. I have seen it a thousand times and it is hard for me to see in my head. This is a guide of things to make a mental note of if given the opportunity to do visit ship aboard a Navy Frigate.
(RDF), review updated 3 August 2007.
Editor's Note: Also released as HMAS Adelaide, reviewed by Doug Hallet.
See Spruance.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as the Arii Spruance. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: From the box art, I'd previously thought that this might be the same kit as the Arii Ticonderoga, but from Tim Reynaga's review of the Bunker Hill kit, I suspect that it may be related to the Minicraft Ticonderoga. (DRW)
This kit has been issued at various times as:
See Iowa.
See Ticonderoga.
The only address I have for them is:
Life-Like Products, Inc.
1600 Union Ave. ,
Baltimore, MD. 21211
Editor's Note: A reissue of the old Pyro American President Liner. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Ark Royal. Late 16th century ship. Hull is said to be about 10 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably the old Pyro Barbary Pirate kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Bon Homme Richard. Hull is said to be about 6 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Yankee Brig of War. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Constellation. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Constitution. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Cutty Sark.
FAIR. Originally number 13 of Pyro's "Antique Ship" series, first issued in 1965. The kit has also been released more recently by Minicraft (kit 11302), Academy (kit 1408, in an odd gold plated version), by Modelist of St. Petersburg, Russia (kit 2243), and probably others. The hull measures 7 ¾ inches in length, making the scale about 1/350. My example was the two-color version issued by Life-Like with brown hull, decks, deckhouses, and masts, and white sails, spars, and ratlines.
The Pyro sailing ship kits were clearly designed for the baby boomer kid market, with exaggerated detail and simplified assembly. The hullform and basic dimensions look accurate, but the raised wood grain detail looks about right for 1/1 scale! The copper sheathing below the waterline is just as heavy, and the ratlines are like giant grates...too bad, because some of the details like the ship's wheel and the launches aren't bad at all.
Construction is easy and fast. The hull and main deck are a total of three parts, and the fit overall is quite good. Sets of billowing sails and spars for each mast are molded together as single units. In the Life-Like issue of the 1960's the parts were molded in color, so a kid could put it together without the need for painting. Rigged with some of Mom's black sewing thread, his masterpiece could be completed in a single afternoon.
Not a bad kit for its intended audience, but if you are looking to make a convincing scale replica the recent 1/350 Cutty by Revell Germany is a better alternative.
(TR) Review dated 10 May 2006.
Editor's Note: I don't know if this is a reissue of the Aurora Enterprise or not. It might be the Otaki kit. It might be the old ITC kit. I'm not sure. (DRW)
POOR. Released in 1970s by Life-Like Hobby Kits, the 1/400 scale Nuclear Aircraft Carrier plastic model kit was one of the larger plastic ship model kits available for its time. The model depicts the nuclear carrier as it appears from the mid to late 1960s. Revell/Monogram may have purchased the Life-Like molds and re-issued the USS Enterprise with improvements.
The Life-Like model was primarily designed to be a motorized toy. The hull interior is configured to support the motor and batteries. There are even parts and instructions to add ballast to the bottom of the hull. Even though the kit did not come with the motorize kit, it can be purchased separately for a mere $12.00 plus $1.00 for postage and handling.
FIT & FINISH: Much of the model seem to be ruggedized (i.e., thick heavy styrene). Surface details were kept to a minimum. There is the usual flash and numerous visible injection pin-holes and sink-marks. Many of the parts that join together left visible gaps
HULL: The hull was molded as one complete section except for one small piece on the bow. The surface is smooth and void of details. The deck rails are molded. The propulsion system has four propeller shafts but with only two rudders. The kit does not include support stanchions for the static-display version and will require some scratch building, otherwise the propellers shafts will be left "dangling" from the hull. Two additional rudders will need to be built as well due to the fact that the Enterprise had four rudders total.
FLIGHT DECK: The flight deck comes in three sections; molded with raised details and texture. However, the contours of the deck are not totally accurate. The four elevators do not fit square into the flight deck so unsightly gaps are visible. In addition, the surface of the elevators was covered with sink-marks. The mounting brackets for the array of HF antennas along the perimeter of the flight deck were over-size and obtrusive. The flight deck is attached to the hull with screws.
ISLAND: The island assembly was designed nicely with the appropriate antennas and radar parts. Again, the flat sides of the island had numerous sink-marks. The SCANFAR (bee-hive) come with individual plastic radar arrays but for the bottom row only. All remaining rows leading to the top, a decal was provided to simulate the rest of the arrays.
AIRCRAFT There is a total of 45 aircraft to fill the flight deck. There are nine different types of aircraft:
The aircraft bear some resemblance to the type of aircraft is was designed to represent; and have panel details on the fuselage and wings surfaces. The fixed-wing aircraft comes with landing gears w/wheels, instead of normal plastic pegs. And several aircraft have wings molded in the folded position. However, some of the fuselages (i.e., Intruder and Vigilantes) have acute sink-marks, which require puttying to salvage the airframe.
Instructions and Decals: The instructions are straight forward and illustrations are OK. The decals include minimal deck striping and basic naval aircraft insignias.
Recommendations: The 40-year old model kit has its flaws and will take some work (putty/sanding & scratch building). The Life-Like USS Enterprise model kit may be best serve left in your stash as a collector's item. But if you really want to build this Life-Like kit:
(RO) Review dated 12 August 2015
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Flying Cloud. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Golden Hind. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Pyro Hornet, below.
Editor's Note: Probably a Pyro reissue. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Pyro Marilyn M kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: FAIR. This is a combination of the old Pyro Merrimac and Monitor kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Charles W. Morgan kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Pyro North Carolina, below.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Niña. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Olympia. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Pinta. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Pyro Revenge. (DRW)
FAIR. This is a reissue of Pyro's Santa Maria kit #171, which first appeared in the 1950s. Life-Like produced the kit from 1972 until they folded in 1978, when Lindberg acquired the molds. Lindberg has issued it on and off since then, sometimes along with the ex-Pyro Niña and Pinta kits. These sets include the "Great Moments in History" (kit 72212) and the "Columbus Discovers America Diorama; Niña, Pinta, Santa Maria" with a seascape, acrylic paints, and paintbrush (kit 70860). The latter was released in 1991 to commemorate the 500th Anniversary of the Discovery.
Despite being often sold with the ex-Pyro Niña and Pinta, this kit doesn't really scale with them; the 100 ton Santa Maria should be noticeably larger than the 50-60 ton Niña and the 60-70 ton Pinta. Instead, the models are all about the same size (no doubt to fit into the standard kit boxes of the time). Also, while the 1966 Niña and Pinta were clearly made by the same Pyro design team, the earlier 1950s Pyro Santa Maria is a bit more primitive with slightly mushier detail and some evident inaccuracies. The masts, for example, are far too tall, and Admiral's cabin has no windows facing aft. Also, the molded billowing sails aren't quite as convincingly executed as on the later efforts. Still, the model appears generally to match what is known about 15th Century carracks, and it does fit with the look of the other ex-Pyro Columbus ships. The hull measures 5 3/4 inches in length, scaling the ship at about 1/208 (assuming a 100 foot hull length). As with all Pyro's sailing ships, this one was clearly designed with younger modelers in mind, featuring simple, fast construction and a minimum of parts. The billowing sails, molded integrally with the spars, look reasonably good. There are even little holes in them to attach rigging. Some smaller parts such as the launch, anchors, and cannon are passably done as well, although the lombard gun mounts shouldn't have wheels. Surface detailing throughout, seemingly geared to heavy-handed brush painters, is very heavy - especially the planking and raised wood grain. It builds quickly into a pleasing but toylike model -- a great starter kit for kids but perhaps not the best basis for a more serious replica.
(TR) Review dated January 30, 2015.
OK/GOOD. Old Adams kit. Kind of a rare kit, but a good find and surprisingly accurate. The bow needs to be sharper and pointier, the bridge house needs to be reshaped on top, and the bridge windows need reworking. Advanced modelers can add the stabilizer fin housings below the waterline. Sand off all the raised hull detail, remove the molded-in railings, and if you can, add the framing for the windows on promenade deck. You also need to install bulkheads along the promenade deck so you won't be able to see all the way through, and also fix the windows and doors on the forward superstructure (they're too big). Paint everything below the waterline red. Considering its age, this is a very good kit. (JMP)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)Editor's Note: Sometimes spelled "Syokaku" Presumably the same as the Pyro Shokaku. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Pyro Washington, below.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Pyro Yamato, below.
They were originally based in Skokie, Illinois. They were later based in Toledo, Ohio.
http://round2corp.com/product-category/lindberg/
The butt of many a joke for many years, Lindberg started to turn itself around under its new owners, Craft House, however they seemed to be uninterested in issuing new ships. They seemed to concentrating on cars at the time.
Sometime before 2009, the company was purchased by J. Lloyd. Under their management, Lindberg produced the Graf Zeppelin carrier kit. Lindberg was purchased by Round 2 Corp. of South Bend, Indiana in 2013.
Lindberg ships are characterized by their absurdly heavy, (and often misplaced) raised panel lines. Many of them, especially the larger ones, are designed to be motorized for pool/pond use. These can be converted to radio control. Lindberg's scales seem to be almost random. A number of their ships are 12 inch "box scale", i.e. whatever scale makes the model 12 inches long. On a more positive note, Lindberg is among the few model companies to pay attention to amphibious forces.
Lindberg apparently bought up all of the old Pyro/Lifelike molds when LifeLike folded in 1978. (DRW)
At least some of them were released in a common scale. The PT-109 and LCVP are in 1/32. The Blue Devil Fletcher class DD and the LCT are both in 1/125. (WLM)
Largest number of their steel-hulled ships cluster around 1/125-1/150 scales, including: Blue Devil (Fletcher-class) DD, Bobtail cruiser, British bomb ketch, LCT, LSI, LSU and Minesweeper. (MMS)
Lindberg kits are usually designed to be sold in powered an non-powered versions. Because of this, detail is usually less than that found in display-only models. They appear to be designed to hold up to outdoor use as powered models, and as simple construction kits for the less-experienced modeller. Nevertheless, they can be used to produce good quality detailed models if the builder is willing to research his subject, do some scratchbuilt modifications, and add detail.
Lindberg kits are produced in a variety of scales. All Lindberg kits, except for a few dioramas, are full-hull models. (LDF)
Editor's Note Said to be 30 inches long. Seems to be designed for radio control. (DRW)
Editor's Note Kit is dates back to at least 1964. (DRW)
1778 frigate. Editor's Note: Probably a re-issue of the Pyro Alliance. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1996. May be a re-issue of a Pyro kit. (DRW)
This is really a model of the Grand Banks fishing schooner Bluenose. This vessel did not race in the America's Cup races, AFAIK. (WLM)
Editor's Note A re-issue of the old Pyro Thebaud kit perhaps? (DRW)
POOR. This same plastic was also released as the Pennsylvania (kit 844) and as part of the Nevada & Arizona "Pearl Harbor Diorama" set (kit 70887) as both Arizona and, with alternate twin-barrel turrets, as the Nevada. This kit originated in 1968 and is, even by the standards of that time, exceptionally crude. With misshapen flat fighting tops and ugly holes on the main deck for the metal screws which attach it to the hull, the model is not at all appealing. Nothing fits very well, and the finished product only vaguely resembles the Arizona. The kit is most notable for the astonishingly poor research in its development, crossing the line from the inaccurate to the downright comical: the triple propeller/twin rudder configuration, completely wrong for Arizona, is actually correct for another ship Lindberg had released around the same time, the Scharnhorst. Even the design of these kit parts is similar to that other kit. Did they somehow confuse the research for the two kits, or perhaps combine the research to save development costs? This actually seems possible considering that the aircraft provided are clearly German Arado Ar196 floatplanes! In short, this is one of the worst Arizona model kits around, definitely one to avoid.
(TR) Review dated February 2011.
Editor's Note See notes under Pennsylvania-class, below. (DRW)
POOR. See Essex-class SCB-125. Perhaps it should get a still-lower rating, as the Antietam never received the SCB-125 modernization. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably the old Pyro Barbary Pirate kit. (DRW)
POOR. See Cleveland Class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This 1970s vintage kit is probably the origin of the light cruiser in the Task Force 4 box. I list it as 1/1071 scale because the box says that the scale is 1 inch = 89 feet 3 inches, which calculates out to 1/1071. I have not seen this kit out of the box, so I have not measured the actual hull.(DRW)
POOR. The kit is a general representation of a Cleveland class light cruiser as built. At 6 7/8 inches overall length the model scales out to 1/1065, so it could (more or less) be pressed into service with 1/1200 scale fleets. A typical box-scale Lindberg effort, the kit is full of simplifications and very robust detail designed to enable young modelers to create a finished model quickly. The kit also has many basic accuracy problems: poor underwater hullform, too narrow superstructures (so narrow that Lindberg had to eliminate four 20mm positions because they wouldn't fit), oddly elongated 5 inch gunhouses which would be unable to rotate on their mounts, and of course the infamous Lindberg "brickwork" weld seams covering both hull and decks. The result does resemble a Cleveland class light cruiser, but it is really more of a toy than a scale model.
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
POOR. What detail there is, is wrong. The shape of the hull is all wrong. Nasty panel lines for steel plates, even on the wooden deck. Save yourself the pain and suffering, and buy something else.
Kit dates back at least to 1965, maybe as far back as the 1950s. Motorized. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: The ship is apparently not named Black Beard, but the kit is. No name is listed on the box. Issued circa 1994. (DRW)
Editor's Note:Represents fire support ship USS Carronade, IFS-1, 1953-1960. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably a reissue of the old Pyro Bomb Ketch kit. (DRW)
FAIR. See Essex Class
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the old Pyro Yankee Brig of War kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1990. Hull is said to be 8.25 inches long. Possibly a re-issue of the old Pyro Burmese Paddy Boat kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit is about 14 inches long when built. It may have been originally released as Wappen von Hamburg in the 1960s. (DRW)
I have just been comparing this with the well known Corel wood kit, images online, and I conclude they are indeed the same ship. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1990. Probably a reissue of the old Pyro War Junk kit. Hull is said to be 7.5 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Might be the same as the Chris Craft Family Cruiser. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Not the same as the Chris Craft Sport Fisherman. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This is the old Pyro US Revenue Cutter Harriet Lane kit. Early Pyro boxings called the ship by name, later Pyro releases (and all the Lindberg ones) called this model the "Civil War Blockade Runner".
Editor's Note: Fulton's steam boat. 186 parts. (DRW)
POOR. 47 parts, and none of them are good. The hull is wrong, the deck is wrong, the guns are wrong, and the molded-into-the-deck light AA guns are really offensive.
This kit has a particularly bad case of Lindberg steel panel lines. They are particularly offensive on the deck, which should be wood planked.
Some issues of this kit are motorized.
This one is only for kids or masochistic 1/600 fanatics. (DRW)
OK. This kit does not appear to be designed for a powered option. Hull appears to be correct in screw/rudder arrangement, but needs to have propellor guards and anchors added. Kit needs additional detailing in masts radars, and rangefinding equipment.
(LDF), review dated 23 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued at various times as
POOR. See Cleveland Class. Some issues came with the spurious pennant number "55".(DRW)
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the Life Like kit.
Editor's Note: Listed as "Captain Truxtun's ship". (DRW)
FAIR. Definitely a re-issue of the Pyro kit. Has the rounded stern of the 1850s new build (which probably did use some wood from the original 1797 frigate), so models the current preserved ship, not actually Captain Truxtun's ship of 1797. FAIR for the true prototype, POOR if you want to make the 1797 CONSTELLATION.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Believed to be a re-issue of the Pyro kit.
Editor's Note: The kit is said to be 12 inches long, and to have 41 parts. The picture on the box makes it look like a merchant ship of some type. (DRW)
Decoy- or "Q-Ships" were WWI combatants; converted British merchantmen, specially equipped with hidden guns to lure and defeat early U-boats in surface gun action. Box art shows a nondescript but too-modern looking - perhaps '30s or even '40s vintage - merchantman. (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
POOR. I built this one as a child.
The Decoy ship bears some resemblance to a circa 1000 grt WWI tramp, or at best possibly a "Hog Islander". It has 'arced' rather than flat gunwales between the fo'c's'le and the superstructure and the poop, indicating again it is a fairly small vessel. It is in in no way related to the Fleet Oiler kit. It had large cowl ventilators, and seemingly large portholes. The very crude guns are in square 'box' deckhouses that look like they have no reasonable function, so it is at best a concept, not a real depiction of any WWI (or WWII) decoy ship. Very crude and toylike.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
See Rudderow Class, below.
Editor's Note: See Rudderow Class, below. Kit 753 is said to have decals for the Rudderow herself. (DRW)
OK. This model has been released as part of the "Classic Replica Series". The model was originally intended to represent a San Francisco Bay area Standard Oil Company Tug. In the numerous re-releases and repackagings, the link with the original seems to be lost.
This is really a model of an 86 foot Steel 1944-era US Army tug. After the war, these tugs ended up in service for a variety of owners. The basic shapes are there for the 86 footer, and the model can be modified into a variety of tugs. The hull is good, but the deckhouse moldings are very heavy. I figure the roof of the deckhouse scales out to 6" thick armor plate! (Easily replaced with a piece of thin sheet plastic.) There is a large, raised "S" molded into the sides of the stack, but it can be sanded off. Deck hardware and fittings is lacking, but not too hard to scratchbuild at this scale. The one piece hull has made this a favorite with Radio Control modelers, who convert this into a mini-RC model. Lindberg apparently noticed this, and released a Radio Control version of the kit, at about $60. The buzz in my local RC Scale Boat club is that this model is out of production again, (1997) so supply may be limited. (It seems to re-appear every 5 years or so.) (WLM)
Editor's Note: This is apparently a re-issue of the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same as King George V, below. (DRW)
Editor's Note: About 10 inches long.
Editor's Note: The real Enterprise (CV-6) was a Yorktown class, but from pictures I've seen online, Lindberg's kit 799M is exactly the same as their Essex-class kit. It is therefore completely wrong to build this kit as the Enterprise.
See Yorktown Class
Editor's Note: Many Essex-class carriers received two major upgrades in the 1950s: SCB-27 and SCB-125. SCB-125 included the angle deck and the enclosed bow.
POOR. Classic Lindberg 12 inch (30.5 cm) "box scale". Lindberg's infamous panel lines are particularly offensive in this tiny scale. The deck engraving is nice, but it doesn't make up for the rest of the kit. Skip it.
An interesting curiousity is that Lindberg issued this kit as several ships which never received the SCB-125 conversion. (DRW)
Editor's Note:This kit has been issued at various times as:
156 parts
FAIR. (based on in-box review) This is one of Lindberg's more salvageable kits. Considering the age of the mold, it's pretty good.
Let's start out with some good points: The panel lines aren't bad at all! For Lindberg, that's astonishing!! The full hull has some nice details on it, including a proper bulb-bow. This is personal taste, I suppose, but I like the two-piece hull, split along the keel. Maybe it's from years of doing Airfixes, but I like it. The hull is the correct length for an early short-hull Essex. The aircraft are all F6F Hellcats, but they're not bad.
Now the bad news: The worst feature of this kit is the hangar deck openings on the port side. They're evenly spaced, identical rectangles, rather unlike those on the actual Essexes. These will be very difficult to fix. Curiously enough, the starboard side is reasonably accurate for a late WW2 Essex. The second worst feature of this kit is the open-mount guns. The 20mm and 5 inchers are atrocious. They shouldn't be that hard to scratch-build, but it will still take some work. The 40mm quads can probably be salvaged, but they're not great. The deck decals are abysmal. I could hand paint better.
This kit will also require some easier fixes. The beam is too broad. Fortunately, the two-piece hull makes this easy to correct. Take about 1/16 inch off of each side of the hull along the keel before gluing the two halves together, and you'll be pretty close. Someone at Lindberg must have been looking at Iowa-class plans, because the kit has a "twin skeg" arrangement for the two inner propellers. Fortunately, they're thin, and a sharp hobby knife can remove them. The bilge keels are missing, as they are from most kits of this era. The 5"/L38 mk 32 twin mounts need some reshaping & detailing, but most of that can be tended to with files and sandpaper.
While far from perfect, this kit's faults are quite forgivable given the kit's old age and low price. It will lend itself quite well to conversions. Its scale is even close enough to the Revell Essex SCB-125 kit to display the two of them together.
Some early versions of this kit were motorized.
Re-issued (as Yorktown) in late 1997. (DRW)
FAIR. Rating based entirely on salvageability of (highly inaccurate) kit. Turn of bilge, though missing keels, does curve nicely - no "flat bottom boat" - and raised plating lines muted, unoffensive. But hull too wide - appears scaled from Korean War era (SCB-27) plans incorrect for WWII; needs narrowing (per Dave's directions above) unless converting to SCB-27. Bow below waterline with (mercifully) correct bulb shape, but stern completely inaccurate, w/twin skegs/rudders (instead of correct 4 shaft/struts and single rudder) and awful, toylike props; replace all from parts box/scratchbuilding. Above waterline bow appears scaled from two (incompatible) sets of plans: side view of "Short-Hull" variant with end view from "Long-Hull" (including SCB-27) variant - creating fictitious concoction never existing anywhere. To depict Short Hull replace w/tip of bow from Revell 1/490 Yorktown-class; for Long Hull or SCB-27, possibly bow from Revell 1/540 Midway-class, or scratchbuild. Moving up, portside hangar openings wrong locations, shapes and number - should be 14, including elevator and hangar-catapult doors - and lacking forward and aft gun sponsons. Starboard-side recesses behind midships 40mm tubs as well as aft hangar openings wrong for WWII - again parts of kit appear based on SCB-27. Solution for both sides extensive cutout- and replacement w/plastic plating, and construction of portside sponsons - all fairly straightforward on slab-sided hull. Starboard 40mm sponsons then re-attachable or omitted, per specific depiction. Though no parts or reference by instructions, (scratchbuilding) hangar deck facilitated by interior hull tabs. Fantail completely featureless; girder detail and catwalks easily scratchbuilt, to great effect. Flight deck w/sparse, raised detail and wrong location of extensive splinter shields/tubs; remove, reattach and/or replace w/PE railing per specific ship depicted. Island also with sparse, light raised detail and thick splinter shield where railings should be; replace w/PE railis and other PE details where indicated. Throw out toylike funnel cap to scratchbuild replacement, plus piping and platform details. Single 20mms slightly overscale and lacking shields; replace w/PE. Quad-40mms toylike, offensive; replace w/far better pirated (or copied in resin) from Revell Missouri or Renwal North Carolina. Single 5" guns graceful but resemble sub deck guns; scratchbuild more convincing single-5" AA mounts. Twin-5" DP turrets too large, squat w/toylike detail; rework or replaced w/far better from Revell Helena/Baltimore or Renwal North Carolina. Aircraft are Hellcats only; supplement w/Dauntlesses from Revell 1/490 Yorktown-class and/or Corsairs from Revell 1/540 Midway-class - might could also bash credible Avengers from (incorrect, mid-wing) Skyraiders of Revell Midway. Lots of work - but only game in town for 1/500 scale WWII Essex-class - or for Korean War era SCB-27 Essex-class, using island assembly pirated from Revell or Renwal angled-deck (SCB-125) Essex-class kit. Either way, use heavily Gold Medal Models' 1/540 Essex/Midway/Forrestal fret - resulting (with above work) in a stunning build. And a perfect companion for your Revell 1/535 Missouri. (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
This kit builds a straight-deck, Essex-class carrier.
This kit has reverse of problem with Bismarck/Tirpitz. The prototype has a single rudder, the kit has twin rudders. Fill center shaft hole, cut off fixed twin rudders, fabricate single rudder and locate forward of twin rudder position. Fill clearance depression for central powered prop.
Model has large openings for access to hanger deck, but no hanger deck inside. I closed some of the openings with scribed styrene to represent roller doors, and installed a scratchbuilt hanger deck. Kit has locating supports for this non-included deck. Minor revisions needed for afterdeck area. Kit includes only Hellcat aircraft. I modified some of these to represent planes in folded-wing configuration, and added Dauntlesses from Revell Yorktown-class carrier kit, using some of the Hellcats on the Revell kit.
This kit is one of the better Lindberg kits in my opinion.
(LDF), review dated 23 February 2006.
OK. I like this kit as well. I feel it is one of Lindberg's best. It has several flaws, but these can be overcome. The most obvious is the rollup hangar doors. Yes these are wrong as mentioned above. They can be fixed with a lot of work. Because the shapes are all square in nature the manufacturing of the parts is do able. It is the removal of the molding in doors that create the grief. I will not begin the suggest a proper method. As there are many doors, I have tried many different techniques and found that each rendered about the same results and effort. So choose the punishment that fits your mood. And note that if you replace one you will have to replace them all or it will not look right. The hull is great. Yes it is fat, but here is the thing: One, who has a micrometer in their back pocket? Narrowing the hull may fix a problem it in turn creates others. I left mine alone and it looks fine. The up side. You can upgrade to the SCB-27 by stealing the island from a Revell kit. I will not pursue the horrible weapons in the kit. That horse has been beat to death by many people in many reviews, myself included. They can be upgraded and / or replaced through various methods and along the same lines as mentioned in other carriers this size.
Addition of a hangar deck is or should be a requirement. This kit needs a little extra and this is the perfect place to start. Besides it will save on the construction of a few of those hangar doors.
Throw all the planes away. If you go with a SCB-27 scheme, the Revell kits have some aircraft that will work pretty well. On the other hand, if you run the WWII gambit, then your work may be cut out for you. Unless WEM makes something, you may be SOL.
All in all I really like the kit. It fits well with the Revell carriers and provides an evolution link to the Midway and Forrestal class carriers produced by Revell.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note:This kit has been issued at various times as:
and maybe others!
Editor's Note: From the picture on the box, it looks like a re-issue of the Pyro Marilyn M kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I know very little about this kit. The real ship was built around 1771. Issued circa 1965. May have been re-issued as Jolly Roger. (DRW)
I can confirm that the Lindberg "Jolly Roger" does correspond to the "la Flore" kit - which represents one of the first modern age of sail frigates, so is historically interesting.
(Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
Thanks for the update, Brooks! (DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know if this is a re-issue of the old Pyro Flying Cloud kit. Lindberg may have issued it as far back as 1966, and Pyro was still around at that point. Kit 70894 was issued around 1991. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit is made from glow-in-the-dark plastic. It was issued around 1972. Reissued in 2007. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued about 1969. (DRW)
POOR. This kit recently (2003) turned up on the market for $10 or so. Despite the box admonition that it contains a "fully detailed model kit", it is actually a very rudimentary kit that is supposed to represent a Gato class submarine. Actually, the conning tower fairwater is much closer to a Balao class, with the Balao signature three-sided open cockpit design and free standing conical shears. The kit has but a handful of parts, some of which are not much above plastic blob status. The indented freeflood limber holes are half moon Electric Boat style, but these carry back on the hull almost to the stern, whereas EB terminated the limber holes less than halfway down the hull. The decals feature wildly oversized buzz numbers for the hull. There are no railings for the gun platforms or deck, and the appearance when finished is toy-like. With a whole lot of extra work, one could possibly turn this kit into a something halfway decent Balao model, but it's questionable if it is worth the effort. Overall, a very poor kit. Might serve to introduce a young child interested in submarines to modeling (or scar them for life). (TD)
OK - bordering on FAIR (based on in-box review). Credit given for great potential and plausible hull (especially compared to Lindberg Nautilus) - definitely a Balao-class, with sail-to-hull proportions matching Balao photos exactly. However aft end of pressure hull curiously (and inaccurately) upswept; looks correctable with moderate surgery. Raised plating seam lines vanishingly fine, absent entirely any depictions of torpedo tubes/doors, recesses for forward planes or anchor; scribe in or cut open to (scratchbuild) detail. Shaft insertions implausibly heavy, with shafts tapering from thick bases (though possibly accurate for Balao), and sprue includes 3 (!?) props, contoured one side only; correct easily by scraping flat sides to matching pitch. Limber holes all (inappropriate) half-moons, but easily drilled out rectangular to adequately correct - needs (for Balao) second row of limber holes forward. Also drill numerous tiny flood holes fore and aft to detail. Bullnose absent but easily shaped/drilled out. Diving planes and rudder thin and finely tapered. Deck with scribed planking - looks to scale (or close) - but mounts proud on casing; scribe outline to cut out top and sink deck in flush to correct perfectly. Must have gotten a different boxing than Mr. Dougherty (above), because my small parts look delicate, to scale and include cleats, capstans and even hawse-eye (for stern). Deck guns also delicate, plausible and with some detail - include two 5(?)-inch guns and two .50cals. Sail/gun decks again with scribed planking - identical to main deck, and even including hatches - and fine splinter shielding, though railings absent; scratchbuild from sprue and/or PE scraps, and detail with PE. Periscope shears again accurate for Balao with fine, plausible masts - except hooked tips of scopes; nip back to more realistic heads, and bash a radar from PE scraps. This is really not a bad kit, given some correction (above) - and additional possibilities for detailing are immense, to produce a great companion to your Revell Buckley, or Aaron Ward. (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
It has been re-issued by
Editor's Note:May be the same as the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1996. May be a re-issue of the Pyro Gouda kit.
Editor's Note:New mold, circa 2009.
POOR. Hold your nose, 'cause this one's a real stinker! You would think that in this large scale, they'd have some DETAIL..... The main turrets are way too flat. The kit has nasty panel lines for the steel plates, even on the wooden deck. The hull has no bilge keels, and the hull cross-section is wrong too. Avoid this one. Motorized for pond/pool use. This kit is rumored to be usable as BB-gun target. (DRW)
POOR. This kit needs some real work to move it from the "pond" to the "shelf". Since the hull is designed to be powered by a single-shaft drive, the rudder needs to be relocated forward and the central shaft hole plugged. Side armor belts should be added using thin strip styrene.
As to above-deck details, decide on what time period you want to model. All turrets will need at least some work, rangefinders need to be raised on main turrets. Pom-pom guns bear no resemblence to real thing. Bridge wings need to be added, viewing slots need to be added to control tower. Ship's boats in bad need of detail.
My model benefitted greatly by addition of WEM PE set designed for Heller 1/400 Hood. I chose to model Hood just prior to last refit. Twin 4" H/LA turrets built from GMM PE turrets for 1/350 USS Arizona/Pennsylvania.
(LDF), review dated 23 February 2006.
POOR. See Essex-class SCB-125.
Same as the smaller Lindberg Biloxi. (DRW)
Kit from the early 1960's. (?)
Editor's Notes: This seems to be a 12-inch "box scale" kit. Lindberg has issued this kit as:
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the la Flore kit. Said to be about 16 inches long overall. Re-issued circa 1990. (DRW)
I can confirm that the Lindberg "Jolly Roger" does correspond to the "la Flore" kit - which represents one of the first modern age of sail frigates, so is historically interesting.
(Brooks), comment dated 20 February 2006.
See Rudderow Class, below.
Editor's Note: See notes under Tanker. See Brooks Rowlett's and Matt Stein's reviews under US Navy Fleet Oiler, below. (DRW)
POOR. But if you want a full hull Kiev, this is it.
This kit's biggest problem is fit. Most of the parts fit badly, if at all. The superstructure halves are especially badly aligned. The odd, multi-part hull is a real problem as well, as the pieces don't fit together very well at all.
Painting instructions are completely wrong. Ignore them. Try to find some color pictures to use as a reference. The deck should be mostly a rust color, with a large green landing area, and a wide yellow stripe.
Details are often incorrect. If you work hard on the hull and fix the SS-N-12 launchers, they almost looks reasonable. The 30mm gatling guns are molded into the deck and undersized. The masts and cranes are solid plastic. I wish there was a photo-etch set to fix them.
The decals were of poor quality: they fell apart in water.
At least this kit is free of the usual Lindberg panel lines.
It's out of production, (as of 1996-1997) so if you really want a full hull Kiev, grab it if you can find it. Don't say I didn't warn you, though. The only other kit out there of a Kiev-class carrier is the Aoshima kit, (sold as both Kiev and Minsk) and it's reportedly pretty terrible too. (DRW)
POOR (based on in-box inspection). Kit loses points to far better Trumpeter 1/550 Kiev/Minsk. Still kit free of typical (usually detracting) Lindberg panel lines, and hull - though straighter and narrower than Trumpeter - plausible except missing bilge keels and with incorrect underwater bow bulb, for which no alternate(s) provided. However apparently designed for alternate bow, facilitating correction. Hull does have nice keel aft and fine, convincing shafts/struts and rudders, though inaccurate 3-bladed, thick props; replace w/4-bladed(?) props from parts box. Molded-on anchors detract, as do peg-like (antennae?) extensions molded into forward deck; chisel off all and replace with whatever they're supposed to be. Deck otherwise plausible with molded VLS hatches and scribed detail, though coarse and again (different and) less convincing than Trumpeter Kiev. Island angular with crisp, raised exhaust louvers; good basis for adding details. Top of funnel screams for hollowing out, capping w/PE screen. Most weapons turrets and cannisters soft and lacking detail, though some articulated launchers more convincing, as are paired conical/dish radars, while large antennae softly-textured, offensive slabs; cull scrap PE for anything better. Likewise, lattice mast and cranes solid w/minimal relief; cry for PE replacement (try 1/500 WWII Japanese Navy frets for possibilities). Aircraft - Forgers and Hormones - right shapes but thick wings with coarse, indented panels looking toylike, as also do ship's boats. Overall, kit details will look soft and crude without extensive scratchbuilding and PE. Considering this, availability of better Trumpeter kit and shape of bow bulb more resembling Kuznetzov-class, maybe better to convert to latter (though at smaller scale). In any case requiring much work to produce anything very nice - however with the effort you'll have a worthy counterpoint to your Revell 1/540 Saratoga. (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following reviews:
See Rudderow Class, below.
OK. Somewhat nicer than a toy is about all you can say about it. (Brooks)
Editor's Notes: Dates back to at least 1967. This kit has been issued at various times as
Last seen in the late 1980s, is due to be re-released in January 2001. Based on the picture on the box, it looks like a model of an LCT(5). Includes a crude Korean War-era tank model. (WLM)
Also sold as LSU. Includes an M 26 tank, and is a model of a post-war LCU 1466 class, with protuding wheelhouse.
The model measures 31.2 cm (without the anchor), 9.4 cm wide. Comparing with dimensions given for post war LCT, from the site I gave you yesterday, it scales out to 1/112.4 in length and 1/110.2 in width. Many parts are somewhat warped, detail is sparse, there is some flash, I consider it an useful and acceptable model considering his age. (PauloB)
OK. Typical Lindberg - detail can be a bit crude, but it is the only kit of this boat in this scale in plastic. I'm not sure about the hull shape - kit has a flat transom that looks more like an LCV (the LCVP's predecessor) than an LCVP's pointed transom. My sole reference shows the LCVP with a pointed transom, but these boats were built in a variety of small boat yards, and it seems possible that some boats could have looked like the model. But further research shows that this kit is NOT an LCV - it is an LCVP. I'm still not sure if the shape of the transom is right, but the boat is definitely an LCVP.
The kit was originally meant to be motorized - part of the cargo floor is removeable for access to the battery compartment. (The parts for motorizing are not in this release.) The kit was last released shortly after the movie "Saving Private Ryan" came out. Kit was in a "D-Day Landing Craft" box, in a release of 5000 kits. Kits have a sticker on the shrinkwrap: "Number xxxx of 5000". I just saw a listing on the Tower Hobbies Plastic Models web page that shows the kit in the same box, without the number, listed as being available in January 2001.
Model can be greatly improved by replacing the kit's .30 cal machine guns with some aftermarket guns, and by cutting off the molded in ropes and replacing with appropriately sized braided cord. There is almost no detail in the driver's cockpit, and none in the gunners' cockpits.
I built mine as a Radio Control model. Model was powered by a dissembled servo under the engine cover. There's room under the aft deck for a rudder servo and the receiver. A flat battery pack will fit under the cargo compartment. (WLM), review dated 21 August 2005.
POOR. See Essex-class SCB-125.
Editor's Note: This kit may portray a Casa Grande class LSD. Box art on kit 744M indicates USS Tortuga (LSD-26). Kit is said to be 19 inches (48.5 cm) long, which, given a 457.75 foot ship, would mean the scale is about 1/289. One box indicates a scale of 1 inch = 10.5 feet, which does not make sense to me. Kit dates back to at least 1968. Kit 766 was issued around 1976. Motorized. (DRW)
GOOD. I just got this kit and I really liked it, if for no other reason being it is the only one like it ever made. The detail is not bad, and the shape of the superstructure looks right. I am not sure about the shape of the hull bottom. I suspect it is wrong at the kits was made to be motorized. All in all it is a fun looking kits.
This would be great displayed with any of the Rudderow and the Revell Forrest Sherman as the scales are close. If you are willing to put forth a lot of effort, this could be made to resemble a later version LSD and could be displayed with a Lee Perry frigate.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Said to be about 12 inches (30.5 cm) long. (DRW)
POOR. I built this one as a teen.
Is indeed about twelve inches. The overall shape is correct and that is the best one can say for this kit. Has the Lindberg panel lines which fortunately are so light you could easily sand them off. Crude guns, crude (and few) fittings, and crude superstructure. Depicts the earlier version LSI which debarked troops through a pair of stairs forward, rather than a bow ramp. Very crude and toylike.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
FAIR. (based on in-box observation) The details don't look that good, but there aren't many alternatives out there. The quick look I got at it suggests that it's probably one of Lindberg's more salvageable kits. This kit was apparently originally issued in the 1950s as LST 383. Kit 7406M was a 1978 re-issue with box art showing LST 762. Some issues are motorized. 153 parts. (DRW)
Recently re-issued by The Naval Base, a New York City based model ship retailer. (JP) (circa 1994)
GOOD - bordering on FAIR. Assessed "Good" because hull accurate, kit faults emminently salvageable. But where are Lindberg steel plating lines when you need them; hull depicts only prominent (horizontal) LST ribbing and raised outlines of bow doors - to cut open and show (scratchbuilt) interior ramp to excellent effect. Supports inside hull indicate motorizeable option in some boxings. Skeg/rudder units convincing but props heavy, toylike - though salvageable by scraping blades to proper pitch, fineness. Anchors with soft lines; scrape and chisel more angularity. Deck like hull; featureless and glass-smooth, though with numerous detail pieces: hatches, vents, stanchions, cable reels and windlasses (beautiful after minor cleanup). Deck-edge stanchions with eyelets for lifelines (very thin chains, cable or thread) for far better appearance than 2-rail PE, at this scale. Before adding any details above, mask hull and deck with alternating tape strips and spray heavy paint to depict steel plating, with excellent effect. Kit parts generally heavy, lack detail/textures but most of correct shape. Gun tubs with thick walls, atop incorrect tubular pillars; scratchbuild correct lattice supports as needed. Single- and twin-40mms w/insufficient, soft detail; scratchbuild or copy better in resin from 1/250 DD/DEs (e.g., Revell Buckley) or 1/200 kits (e.g., Revell Lionfish) - or perhaps after-market (L'Arsenal?). Rafts (incorrectly) oval - should be rectangular; clip ends and fix w/sprue. Boat launching rails correct but need splitting (carefully) along centerlines for accurate, "slotted" appearance. LCVPs quite nice - include treads in bottom and rudders on undersides - though needing props, and bow ramps need grilles; go to parts box for great improvement here. The above touches - and other detailing possibilities which are endless - plus some minimal PE here and there will make this a truly excellent build. And sized just right for escort to the beachhead by your Revell Buckley or Aaron Ward. (Who was herself converted to a fast amphibious landing ship.) (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
FAIR: This kit has some nice detail but some is on the heavy side. My model was heavily modified, but was built to represent a highly modified prototype. Kit includes nice landing craft and winches. Large scale invites detailing. Would make a nice diorama model with bow doors opened up.
(LDF), review dated 23 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Said to be 11.25 inches long, and to have 163 parts. At least some versions are motorized. The kit dates back to the 1950s. (DRW)
POOR. See Cleveland Class.
See Lindberg Rudderow 1/535, below.
OK. As with the 1/350 Tamiya Enterprise , this kit is a rite of passage for ship modelers; most of us have probably had one, with dreams of building a huge, impressive destroyer model without sinking a lot of money or effort into it. The problem is that this kit's main function -- as a motorized model -- is difficult to conceal. The superstructure is simple and somewhat inaccurate (note especially the boxy pilothouse), the guns need help, and the bulkhead details are questionable and a bit soft to my eyes. I also encountered some fit problems on mine, especially in getting a smooth finish and a strong join along the main deck/hull joint. Even if you have gone the whole nine yards on rebuilding the superstructure, main deck and armament (and adding H-R Products accessories), you still have to deal with the hull, which was tooled for motorized operation and simple molding, and looks quite slab-sided, especially at the bow. It *could* be salvaged, but it would take a lot of work, especially to the hull. If you are into radio control, you're all set, but don't buy it with visions of a museum-quality model unless you are prepared to plow a ton of work into it. (JMP)
UPDATE: Jodie Peeler's review is right on target. Melvin is a mid-war Fletcher with a short, square bridge. For builders wanting to accurize the kit, see the websites for preserved Fletchers such as U.S.S. Kidd (http://www.usskidd.com/) or the 1/96th scale masterpiece Fletcher destroyers built by Fine Art Models (http://www.fineartmodels.com/fletcher.htm) for inspiration.
As the builder will see, the real Fletcher hull is a beautifully graceful shape, unlike the kit. Since the kit's hull is very inaccurate (it's basically a box with a tapered bow and rounded stern with no bilge keels) builders deciding to scratch build a new hull can use Floating Drydock 1/192d scale plans enlarged to 1/125th scale. Scratch building a new hull out of wood covered with fiberglass took me about 20 hours worth of work to include adding bilge keels and a double rudder appropriate for U.S.S. Rooks. Rooks was a very late Fletcher, one of five with twin rudders.
For anti-aircraft gun improvements, and the kit needs them badly, order H-R Products 1/125th scale white metal 40mm quad, 40mm dual and 20mm single guns available from Floating Drydock in the numbers appropriate to the Fletcher desired. Fletchers were built by multiple shipyards and their designs differ, particularly in the anti-aircraft fit. These H-R guns are a huge improvement over the kit parts. The turrets have nearly correct exterior dimensions but the turret roofs need work. The foremost and aft turrets have two turret roof "knuckles", the other three have only one. This is because the foremost and aftmost turrets lie below the muzzle of another turret and the roof required additional reinforcement protecting it from the muzzle blast of the other turret above it. All turret corners need rounding. The actual 5-inch guns are off-center to the right in the turret while the kit's are on-center. The kit's 5-inch gun barrels are too short. And the turret should rotate at a point forward rather than center.
Builders comparing the kit parts to the plans will see that most parts are not quite correct but close. The superstructure is reasonably accurate for a mid-war Fletcher and changes would probably go un-noticed by the average viewer making scratch-built replacements unnecessary. The bulkhead details are very clumsy and clunky looking. The late war Fletchers, such as U.S.S. Kidd and U.S.S The Sullivans, have the forward torpedo tube turret between the funnels replaced by a Mk 63 anti-aircraft director. The 40mm quads on the late ships are mounted more forward rather than astride the aft funnel to get better fields of fire. The kit funnels themselves are okay but the vents on their sides need some work. The whale boat hulls are surprisingly accurate in shape.
Replace the bridge bulkheads, the 5-inch gun director and the 21-inch torpedo tube turrets. These parts are noticeably inaccurate. The real square bridge has five forward portholes, not four. A builder could scratch build an early war Fletcher's round, tall bridge if desired. The gun director is the wrong shape and the radar screen is, well, awful. The torpedo tube turrets need some serious detailing and the tubes themselves would look better if replaced by brass or aluminum tubing.
The kit's radar mast is just plain bad as are the floater net baskets. Some work to clean up the depth charge launcher racks can be easily done since the real racks were basically welded angle-iron boxes.
Most Fletchers had a single centerline rudder, very different in shape to the kit's twin rudders which are probably needed for stability if actually sailed in water as the kit is designed to do. The last five Fletchers had twin rudders to increase maneuverability. Dumas Boats brass three-bladed propellers make great, more accurate replacements for the kit's plastic two-bladed props.
For painting a late-war Fletcher, I recommend the attractive and simple anti-Kamikaze Measure (Ms) 22 of Ocean Grey over Navy Blue. Ms 22 was "Navy Blue 5-N FS 35044" painted on the hull to a line parallel to the waterline running through the deepest part of the main deck. Testors Model Master "Insignia Blue FS 35044" is a dead match and looks very good at this large scale. Then "Ocean Grey 5-O FS 35164" painted on all vertical surfaces from this point up. Testors Model Master "Intermediate Blue FS 35164" is another dead match. The metal decks should be painted "Deck Blue 20-B FS 35042". Testors Model Master "Flat Sea Blue FS 35042" perfectly matches the prototype. For the hull below the waterline black boot stripe, I recommend Testors Model Master "British Crimson (F)" which has a good red-brown look to it.
So for a builder up to a real scratch building challenge, this kit builds to an impressive size and good looks. (SCL)
Note: Tom's Modelworks has announced a PE detail set for this kit, to be released in September 2005. It will include detail parts for the 40 and 20mm guns, replacements for the kit's awful radars, railings, ladders, and a number of other details. It won't fix the basic shape errors, but will make for a much better looking model. (WLM)
Editor's Note: Possibly an Admirable class. One issue that I've seen in pictures shows USS Sentry (AM-299). Said to be about 17.5 inches (44.5 cm) long. (DRW)
GOOD. Same as the LSD kit in it is the only one like it, so make the best of it. The detailed plating is a little odd as these ships were built of wood and brass (because of Magnetic mines).
The overall shape is good; again the lower hull is suspect again because of the motorized optional installation.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Seems to be a new (2010) release of the old Iowa-class kit.
Editor's Note: Not the old Pyro kit! Apparently, this is a Lindberg mold. Thanks to Dan Jones for setting me straight about the differences. (DRW)
FAIR. This is a combination of the old Pyro Merrimac and Monitor kits. Fit isn't that great, and I'm a bit skeptical about accuracy. Scales do not match: the Monitor is 1/210 and the Merrimac (more properly, CSS Virginia) is 1/300. (DRW)
Editor's Note: From pictures, the hull looks sort of like a yacht. The box says it comes with a "wall plaque" frame mount. (DRW)
OK. Really tiny. Just about all the detail is lost in this scale. Portholes are way overscale. Main deck isn't crooked as it should be. At least it doesn't have Lindberg's infamous panel lines... This one's just for kids, or maybe for wargaming. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the Pyro Yamato.
OK. A model of LS 112, a 149 foot long Lightship built specifically for the Nantucket station. (Launched in 1936, decommissioned in 1975.) Last released as one of the "Classic Replica Series" in the mid-late 1980s. Typical Lindberg detailing, but a model of a unique subject. (WLM), review dated 21 August 2005.
May be the same as the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
POOR. The Nautilus would run neck & neck with the Revell Nautilus for "Worst Rendition of an Early Nuclear Submarine".
This kit has a marginally better stern and rudders than the Revell kit. It includes a "deck cannon" (looks a bit like a shrunken version of the old "atomic cannon") and a missile (not a Loon, not a Regulus, more like a miniature "Destination Moon" rocket). This sits, BTW, unprotected with no shelter on the front deck. I guess the plan is "don't submerge until after you fire it". And my favorite is the large clear bubble that goes onto the forward part of the sail... don't ask. (TD)
POOR - worse than "Poor", if that's possible (based on in-box review). Hull incorrect not only for Nautilus, but unlike any known USN sub. Inaccurate, tapering pressure hull could perhaps be replaced entirely with accurate, straight cylindrical section between kit bow and stern. Too-thick sail must be narrowed/replaced, with toy-like nav lights removed. About five of every six limber holes need filling in, some forward ones reshaping. Diving planes and stabilizers thick and (in varying degree) to wrong patterns; sand down or replace, as necessary. Props (incorrectly) 4-bladed and practically flat; replace with 5-bladed (or later scimitar-bladed) props from parts box. Deck sections with scribed planking but wrong shape; discard in favor of Evergreen "V-groove" sheeting, sunk in flush with casing where needed. Deck miniature "Big Bertha" cannon and "Moon Ship" cruise missile offensively unconvincing (as anything, on any ship). Half of masts - the thinner ones - possibly salvageable, if tweaked. With all work above, you might end up with a desirable 1/300 scale Nautilus, but hardly easier than scratchbuilding one to begin with - or fixing the Aurora Nautilus, for example. THIS is the kit that could scar a youngster for life. (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out the following:
It has been re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Note: See notes under Tanker. See Brooks Rowlett's and Matt Stein's reviews under US Navy Fleet Oiler, below. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under Iowa-class
FAIR. Ex-Pyro Niña, Pinta, and Santa Maria kits with a vacuform seascape, 6 acrylic paints, and paintbrush released in 1991 to commemorate the 500th Anniversary of the Discovery. It was later issued again as kit No. 72212, "Great Moments in History: Columbus Discovers America; Niña, Pinta, Santa Maria" in a slightly redesigned box.
(TR) Review dated January 30, 2015.
Editor's Note: Elsewhere, Tim points out that the Niña and Pinta are 1/148 scale, and the Santa Maria is 1/208. In addition to the Pyro originals, these kits were also issued individually by Life Like. Tim has reviewed the Pyro Niña, the Pyro Pinta, and the LifeLike Santa Maria in greater detail. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the old Pyro Marilyn M kit. Said to be about 17 inches long. Kit 7220-23 was apparently issued around 1984. Decals give the name "Fancy". (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under Tanker. (DRW)
Also sold under the name USS Neches. In their very early 1960s line. Scale... well, it was a foot long. Possibly acceptable deck etch detail, molded rails, (including on the catwalks), strange derricks for holding out the fuel hoses. Motorized. Never been reissued, and rather like a Revell flat bottom boat. (Brooks)
GOOD - bordering on FAIR (based on in-box review). Kit is indeed exactly 12" long, Kit# 750 having decals for USS Mattaponi AO-41; Mattaponi-class T2 oiler at 520' long. Hull bottom does look boxy but not too implausible - definitely not the flat-bottom boat Revell's Mission Capistrano is. Raised panel lines throughout but much finer than typical for Lindberg; generally do not detract but enhance. Rudder unit passable but prop offensively thick, toylike. Thick molded-in railings throughout also objectionable. Molded in deck detail surprisingly crisp, with effective depiction of ladders fore and aft - avoiding "Aztec stair" syndrome - though rims of bow gun tubs a bit thick. Very simple kit, w/few parts, somewhat crude but mostly effective. Raised panel lines on upper levels and gun tubs a bit much; need removal. Shielded 20mms and other, unspecified "guns" all inaccurate and (at best) too heavy or (at worst) downright offensive. One (apparently) 5" gun possibly salvageable. Funnel mercifully free of panel lines. Lifeboats not terribly bad, with passable raised planking lines. Get Gold Medal Models' USN Ship PE fret to replace all molded-in railings - and a hatch and ladder here and there - and this will make a nice little build. The only tanker in this scale - and a ship just tailor made to come alongside and refuel your Lindberg 1/520 Yorktown-II or Revell 1/540 Midway. (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
POOR. This kit has almost all detail in the outer hull and superstructure. Its large size invites reworking and added detailing. This kit is moulded of a rather brittle white styrene, not the soft gray plastic of other Lindberg kits. Can be detailed with GMM PE set for Revell USS Olympia/Glencoe. USS Oregon, but superstructure will have to be opened up for and aft and scratchbuilt decks added. This model does not appear to be made for powering. Hull appears to be accurate, needing only outer torpedo tube doors added. Moulded-on railings need to be removed and replaced with PE. Longitudinal walkways on outboard edges of boat deck need to be added, skylight on boat deck needs major rebuilding. Kit includes no decals, but needs "Federal Shield" applied to bow. I made a color copy of the decal sheet for Glencoe USS Oregon and used shield from that. Prototype ship exists in Philadelphia, so good color detail photos available on internet.
(LDF), review dated 23 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the old Pyro Olympia kit. Said to be about 17 inches long. (DRW)
POOR. See Essex-class SCB-125.
POOR. A toy at best. Same kit was in "Pearl Harbor Diorama" set as _Arizona_, and with alternate turrets as _Nevada_. The masthead fire control tower tops are 'flat', rather than the stretched hexagon shape - they only look correct from bow-on or stern-on. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
Lindberg's Nevada and Arizona kit is a close relative.(DRW)
Editor's Note: If I were a betting man, I would bet that this is a re-issue of an old Pyro kit, but I have yet to find evidence of a Pyro original. The Lindberg kit was issued around 1990. The finished model is said to be about 9 inches long. (DRW)
POOR See Essex-class SCB-125.
Another one that never actually received the SCB-125 upgrade.
Editor's Notes: Dates back to around 1968. Presumably, the same as King George V, above. (DRW)
OK. Another typical Lindberg kit, recently re-released s a numbered series of 5000 kits. Kit was meant to be motorized, and could be converted to Radio Control. (The motorizing parts in Lindberg kits are usually toy-like, and not quality hobby grade motors, etc., that would be suitable for RC use.) I've heard that this kit is a decent representation of an Elco 80 foot PT, with heavy, somewhat sparse detailing. There have been a couple of articles over the years in Scale Ship Modeler about converting the kit to an RC model. (WLM)
GOOD (based on in-box review). Undoubtedly from Pyro mold - certainly not typical Lindberg; lacks any steel plating lines, and hull appears substantially correct, though bow underwater not quite bulbed, as suspected should be. Props and shafts/struts look good, if shafts slightly overscale. Hull molded with raised line depicting portholes and doors; drill out as desired and then sand off relief. Molded-in anchors detract somewhat - might could chisel off and spruce up to great effect. Molded-on railings confined to just midships gunwale and a couple upper decks; none on main decks. Detail rather spartan and deck moldings fairly crisp, though all foredeck windlasses need chiseled off and undersides finished for great improvement. Kit simple, with few parts for fairly complex vessel, though details - for example booms, masts and boats - look correct and in-scale. Funnels OK but could use hollowing out and installation of (scratchbuilt) baffling and piping. With these extra touches plus PE railing and ladders here and there, this kit should build up beautifully; equally suitable for depiction of President Wilson or President Coolidge (maybe more). And, though I don't know wartime exploits as troopships, at 1/411 scale would make a good charge for your Revell 1/426 Pennsylvania/Arizona to shepherd.
(MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
Editor's Notes: A reissue of the old Pyro American President Liner. Issued circa 1988. Lindberg has also re-issued this kit as President's Liner. (sic) (DRW)
Editor's Note: Another reissue of the old Pyro American President Liner. Issued circa 2010. See notes under President Wilson. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Brooks Rowlett successfully identified the Lindberg Q-ship!
She's the USS Atik, (AK-101) formerly known as SS Carolyn, built in 1912, and she really was a Q-ship in World War II. Sadly, she was not a successful Q-ship, and she was sunk on 27 March 1942 by U-123.
The kit could also be used to model her sister, USS Asterion (AK-100) formerly SS Evelyn.
Said to be 12 inches (30.5 cm) long. Classic Lindberg "box scale". (DRW)
Presumably identical to Decoy Ship kit. (MMS)
ALMOST OK. This is the Diesel Tug , slightly re-designed for RC operation. All the builder needs to supply to run this model is a 2 channel radio unit with one servo. All of the comments about the other kit apply to this model.
The only reason to buy this model is because you want to run it as an RC model, and don't want the hassle of converting the static version. The kit includes all the running gear-- prop, shaft, rudder, etc. It also includes a modified servo that serves as a combo electric motor and speed control.
The scale defects of the original are still here. Getting rid of topside weight will greatly improve the stability of the model. I replaced the thick plastic decks and cabin sides with thin sheet styrene. The deck is marred by the addition of two screw holes. These are needed so the deck can be removed to service the RC gear. The worst sin is that part of the deck is cut away to clear the tiller. This leaves a hole that lets any water that lands on deck enter the hull. (WLM)
Editor's Note: Probably an old Pyro kit. I think Lindberg issued it around 1975. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Listed as "Captain Grenville"'s ship. May be a re-issue of a Pyro kit.
See Lindberg Rudderow 1/535, below.
Editor's Note: Presumably a re-issue of the old Pyro kit. Said to be about 22 inches long. (DRW)
56 parts
FAIR. This the best Lindberg 20th century ship that I've built. If you can get the deck to seal nicely and sand off the raised detail off of the hull and decks, you can make a decent model out of it. The 20mm and 40mm guns aren't much, but they could be far worse. The superstructure actually has some decent detail on it. The hull is tolerable, (after sanding off the heavy steel panel lines) but it's kind of "boxy" below the waterline, and the bilge keels are missing. If you want to see what a World War II DE hull is supposed to look like, try the Revell Buckley kit. That kit is missing bilge keels too, but at least the hull is the right shape! Too bad that they're different scales, or I'd start kit bashing.
This kit dates back at least to 1968, maybe further. Some early versions were motorized. (DRW)
FAIR - bordering on GOOD (based on built example inspection). Assessment bordering "good" as kit has surprising number rather nice features. But everything a mixed bag. Hull obviously too square on bottom but curved significantly at turn of bilge - similar to Renwals - and bottom not actually flat. Stern with fine skeg (accuracy unknown) but also large hole and oval recess for prop clearance of motorized option. Static-display shafts and props also provided and surprisingly good. Classic Lindberg raised panel lines don't particularly detract on hull, IMHO - in any case easily scraped/sanded off, and likewise for deck, and its molded-on anchor chains. Hawse-guides missing entirely - from both hull and foredeck - yet surprisingly nice anchors provided. Superstructure detail very good - including dogged hatches, locker-boxes and conduits - but also raised panel lines, even on bridge roof (for God's sake) Shielded 20mms' barrels and shields very fine, yet bases and breach-ends stubby and inaccurate; looking like heavy .50cals - still, these are salvageable. Shielded twin-40mms unconvincing, practically featureless twin barrels over what look like pairs of backgammon dice-shakers; unknown how accurate or salvageable. Five-inch turrets and barrels w/very good shape but details lousy, including inaccurate, too-proud hatches and yet more panel lines - this time recessed - but turrets definitely salvageable to very good effect. Depth charge racks and torpedo tubes surprisingly nice - the latter begging to be drilled out and fitted with protruding torpedo warheads. (Scratchbuild these or pirate from Nichimo or Renwal/Revell 1/200 sub kit.) With above work and some PE - to replace the odd Aztec-stairs here and there, for example - this will make a very nice build. Copy 5" turrets in resin to help accurize your Revell Fletcher, for which this kit will make a very nice consort.
(MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
GOOD. This is a really great beginner kit. It only has about 60 parts. Construction is straight forward and only a very few really small parts. A son or even a daughter could build a very presentable kit in one day. As for the level of detail of the kit I really can not think of anything to add to description. I only want to make note that the scale goes great with the;
It may do ok with the Ward 1/240 scale, just do not place them right next to each other!
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Notes:The Lindberg 1/300 DE kit has been issued at various times as
FAIR. Kind of like Lindberg's 1/300 kit, (above) only smaller. As such, the hull is not entirely correct, and it has a classic case of Lindberg's extremely heavy panel lines. There's also a problem with the superstructure that the 1/300 kit doesn't share: two of the 20mm gun platforms on the superstructure are molded into the single deck/superstructure piece, and their plan is carried down all the way to the deck. That is a problem!!
This kit was released in the past as Riley, but today (2002) it may only available with other ships in a Task Force 4 box.
I used to list this kit as a 1/600, because my notoriously faulty memory recalled measuring it out and comparing it to some numbers in a book long ago. On the Task Force 4 box, Lindberg says it's 1/535. I dug this model out of the closet and verified that the true scale is indeed 1/535.
Now, for my next trick, I will try to verify that this is indeed a Rudderow class, and not a Butler class. (DRW)
GOOD. One great feature about this kit is that the enclosed 5in/38s can be used to correct one of the many deficiencies on Revell's Long Beach! Next you can buy after market open mount 5in/38's to make an earlier DE! Check WEM. So a bonus either way.
All the guns, 20mm and 40mm need replacement. The Depth charges are ok. All the gun shields need to be cut off and replaced.
Perfect to be displayed with Revell 1/542 and Lindberg 1/535 scale carriers! How it would keep up during operations would pose a mystery to the knowledgeable sailor though!
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
FAIR - bordering on POOR (based on in-box review). Hull is indeed almost exact reduction of 1/300 Rudderow kit - including raised panel lines and even oval recess in stern where larger kit allows prop clearance for motorizeable version (unavailable, of course in this scale). Looks possible to bash Hawk USCG cutter hull for more accurate replacement, with lengthened/squared-off stern. Rating pushing "Poor" as kit lacks most charms of larger version. Panel lines - now ridiculously overscale - remain on all horizontal surfaces, along with molded-in depth-charge racks and torpedo tubes; poor shadows of larger versions. Superstructure now lacking all detail save - you guessed it - offensively overscale raised panel lines. Three tub/sponsons each side on superstructure 01- and 02 levels molded atop inaccurate solid "pillars"; carve out w/chisel and #11 blade w/little difficulty - remove Aztec stairs while at it. Shielded 20mms lacking shields, otherwise like larger kit, except worse. Twin 40mms also worse than in larger kit; look like nothing recognizeable. Five-inch turrets all wrong - far too squat, and wide at front; replace w/reshaped turrets from Revell Midway, or bash to shape. Good news: splinter shielding not too overscale, and stack has nice, fine exhaust pipe - though also panel lines needing removal. Additional to above work, this recommended:
Editor's Note: The Lindberg 1/535 DE kit has been issued at various times as
and perhaps others.Editor's Note: Lindberg says this is a War of 1812 privateer. Kit is about 13 inches (33 cm) long when built. (DRW)
OK. Least inaccurate of the series that included King George V, Pennsylvania, and this. Hull may be overly deep. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to date back to about 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Snap together kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit is about 33 inches long when built. It was issued around 1979. Probably an old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 1950s vintage kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know much about the history of this one, but Lindberg did issue it around 1994. (DRW)
POOR. Lindberg's "Southern Belle" is a stereotype of a sternwheeler. It has a LOT of errors! The captain being a bugle-playing dude in a uniform is a good laugh. No captain of that era would've worn a uniform. They dressed much as a businessman, as they didn't do any steering or deck work. There is no rake to the hull, missing railings, and no hog chains to support the weight of the boilers, engines and sternwheel. The sternwheel is able to be adapted to be powered, using a rubber band drive to connect it to the motor pulley. (RLAW)
Editor's Note: Originally issued 1958 or earlier. Some versions are motorized. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Almost certainly a re-issue of the old Pyro kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1976. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit is about 15 inches long when built.
Editor's Notes: Identifying this kit turned out to be much trickier problem than I'd thought. It has been released many times under several names, and the names used were not always for ships in the same class.
From what I can tell, the original 1959 issue of this kit was as the USS Mattaponi (AO-41). At least that was the ship on the box cover. That would make her the lead ship of the Mattaponi subclass of the Kennebec-class oilers. The main difference between the Mattaponi subclass is and the earlier Kennebec-class is that they were about 18.5 feet longer (520 feet, vs. 501 feet 5 inches) than the basic Kennebec-class.
Having not seen the kit in or out of the box, and having no plans for either the AO-36 class or the AO-41 class, I'm unwilling to say exactly which class it is.
The kit is said to be 12 inches (1 foot) long. It has been released as:
Decals for USS Mattaponi AO-41 - Mattaponi-class T2 oiler, 520' long - while instructions say "These ships are usually about 550 feet long". Kit measures exactly 12" long OA. Presumably identical to US Navy Fleet Oiler kit. (MMS), review dated 5 February 2005.
This set of 4 models is abox scale kit from the early 60's or late 50's. Box scale is where the manufacturer would buy boxes in bulk and make the models fit inside them.
Inside is the Iowa BB-61 and Valley Forge CV-45 in 1/1550 scale, Birmingham CL-62 in 1/1050 scale, and the Charles Kimmel DE-584 in 1/535 scale. They have the outline of the ships they represent pretty well, with the exception of the Valley Forge CV-45. The real ship never looked like the carrier in this kit. It is a modernized Essex class carrier with the angle deck flight. The Valley Forge for all 24 yrs of service was a straight deck and looked very much like a world war 2 carrier.
Considering when they were made and price of $10.00 they are a bargain when you compare to current prices and the fact they always go up, this allows a modeler an easy burden on the wallet and something to build that isn't time-consuming for accuracy allow you to do one thing enjoy modeling and have fun. (CB)
FAIR. See Essex Class
See Rudderow Class, above.
POOR. This kit needs some major work. Start by relocating single rudder, then building a duplicate for actual twin rudder arrangement. Shorten fairings for outboard prop shafts and build A-Frames for shafts. Replace outsize central screw with scale-sized one, prototype uses twin rudders with triple-screw drive. Sheer line at top of hull is not accurate for Bismarck-class ships. I chose not to alter mine.
This kit is physically the same as one sold as Bismarck. Actually makes a better Tirpitz Rangfinders for "A" turret need to be removed and cover plates added. Conning tower is missing sloped armored roof. Major structural omission is lack of forward aircraft hangers on both sides. Model benefits from PE. I used GMM set for 1/350 Tamiya Bismarck/Tirpitz. Illustration of camo paint pattern sketchy and inaccurate.
(LDF), review dated 23 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See also Bismarck.
POOR. Lindberg's "Tow Boat" looks absolutely NOTHING like a real towboat. I was brought up on these boats, and this thing makes me cringe every time I see it. I'd never waste my money on this one! It's an embarrasment to modeling! (RLAW)
Editor's Note: From pictures, this looks like a riverine barge tow boat. Scale is uncertain; it may be 1/300. (DRW)
Editor's Note: From pictures, this doesn't look like the Diesel Tug, above. It looks more like a harbor tug than an oceangoing tug. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I am not sure if this is a reissue of the Pyro Gulf Star Tuna Clipper, but it seems likely. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Possibly an older version of the Tuna Clipper, above. (DRW)
FAIR. Shapes are right, the details heavy and a little sparse. Model of a USCG Cape-class 95' Patrol Boat. These boats served from the 1950s to the 1990s, when they were replaced by the new Island-class 110s. Kit includes a hedgehog ASW launcher that might have been tested in the early 50's but hasn't been carried since. (WLM)
Editor's Note: Some boxes list a scale of 1/80. (DRW)
POOR. See Essex-class SCB-125.
FAIR. Not to be confused with Lindberg's larger 1/888 Valley Forge, this one is the smaller offering in 1/1550 scale measuring a diminutive 6 7/8 inches. It is a basic rendition of a SCB-125 (angle-flight deck, enclosed hurricane bow) modified Essex class carrier. A 1960s-era kit "for modelers age 7 and older", it consists of just 14 parts designed to be put together in a just few minutes. (I remember getting one at the grocery store as a kid and having it completely assembled before mom even finished putting the groceries away). The model is a companion for the similar BB Iowa, CL Biloxi, and DE Riley kits, with which it was also sold as part of the Task Force 4 set. This one is probably the best of the bunch. Though you must look past the typical Lindberg simplifications, overscale weld seams and airplanes cast directly to the flight deck, the little carrier isn't too bad. The basic outline is fairly good, sponsons look correct, and the scribed planking detail on the flight deck is actually quite nice. A miniscule Piaseki HUP-2 Retriever helicopter (this one cast as a separate part) is a highlight. An odd thing about this kit is that Lindberg chose to release it as the Valley Forge CV-45, which never received the angle-deck/enclosed bow upgrades-although there were 14 other Essex carriers they could have chosen that did. Also, the flight deck decals included in the kit are not the yellow "45" shown on the box and in the instructions but "47", which would make it the USS Philippine Sea CV-47-another Essex class carrier that never received the SCB-125 refit! Whatever the identity of this little angle-deck Essex, it is one of Lindberg's more appealing smaller models.
(TR), Review dated 18 January 2009.
POOR. See Cleveland Class.
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the old Pyro kit. On the other hand, Lindberg's kit (kit 829) has a copyright date of 1966. I'm not sure on this one. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit is about 16.5 inches long when built. Originally released around 1965. Name translates to "Emblem of Hamburg". Apparently, it has also been released as Cap'n Kidd (DRW)
Editor's Note: Another re-boxing of an old Pyro kit, with a bogus name. Kit is really a model of the US Revenue Cutter Roger B. Taney from 1833. (WLM)
Turns out this isan't as bad as it first seems-- (I have a 1990 edition of the Lindberg kit.):
I take back at least some of the bad things I said about Lindberg. I had always assumed that their "War of Independence" label was some more of their marketing foolishness. (Like calling the Bluenose kit an "America's Cup Racer".) Turns out I'm wrong-- the instruction sheet says that this is a model of one one of the first ships of the Texas Navy. The old Pyro kit originated as a kit of the US Revenue Cutter Roger B Taney, from the 1830s. So at least the tiemline is right, as Texas' Independence started in the mid 1830s as well.
The hull is totally devoid of any planking or coppering detail-- it is smooth as can be. The main deck planking is represented by raised lines.
The instructions aren't bad- Lindberg reprinted the original Pyro instructions, so all the parts are idetnified by name, and the rigging diagram isn't too bad. The kit provides one spool of black thread to be used for all the rigging- no distinction between standing and running rigging is made.
The gun ports are split, and are all molded integrally with the hull parts. A couple of them are molded in the open position. The provided guns look very odd- they look more like 18th century Spanish guns than 19th century pieces.
Spars are generally molded OK-- all have a molding seam, but none of them seem to be out of round from mold mis-alignment. I'm thinking about replacing them with wood pieces anyways- that, plus planking the deck, would be a big upgrade in the model's appearance.
All in all, this looks like a decent basis for a nice model-- I can see a number of places where it will be relatively easy to upgrade components. The one thing I'm not sure about is what to do about the smooth hull-- about the only thing I can think of doing would be to scribe in some planking lines-- but that would be a lot of work, and hard to keep everything straight and parallel. I've never been interested in rescribing panel lines on an aircraft model, so I'm not very keen on trying it on a curvy hull. (WLM) Review dated 7 December 2007.
FAIR. See Essex Class.
Editor's Note: Includes
Presumably same as Iowa.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
OK - going on GOOD. This is not an Essex Class, it is a Yorktown Class carrier. I was surprised to find this out when I finally got one. It is not a bad kit. There is minimal molded on plating and the flightdeck looks good. The bow is shaped wrong as is the stern. The aircraft are not very good at all.
(RDF), review updated 23 October 2007.
Editor's Note: After viewing pictures of the Enterprise and Yorktown kits on-line, I'm not sure that Randy is right. From pictures, the Enterprise kit (799M) appears to be the Lindberg Essex kit with different decals. The same holds true for pictures of the Yorktown kit (760M) that David Perry sent me.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
FAIR. See Essex Class
Sometime around the end of 2005, Lone Star Models sold their line of ship kits to Rusty White's Flagship Models.
LSM's original address is:
Lone Star Models
13758 Drakewood
Sugar Land, TX 77478
USA
Check out their web site, which still lists their aircraft products.
Flagship Models data:
Flagship Models Inc.
2204 Summer Way Lane
Edmond, OK 73013-2815 USA
405-330-6525
email: flagship_kits@sbcglobal.net
Check out Flagship Models' website at http://www.flagshipmodels.com/.
Vac-formed hull, 15 white metal parts, 24 misc parts, wooden deck.
1 piece resin hull, 6 white metal guns and misc. deck fittings, wood masts, brass smokestack.
2 piece resin hull, brass stack, 2 white metal guns and prop, misc. fittings, injection molded deck grating.
1 piece resin, metal prop.
2 piece resin hull, 12 white metal parts, brass stack.
2 piece resin hull, 14 metal parts, brass stack and chain. Injection molded grating, 11" long.
2 piece resin hull, 16 white metal parts.
2 piece resin hull. 17 white metal fittings, 4 brass guns and stack. 11" long.
2 piece vac-formed hull, 8 white metal parts, resin boiler, brass stack.
2 piece resin hull. 10 white metal fittings, brass stack.
2 piece resin hull. Brass stack, white metal props, chocks and gun, plastic deck grating. 8" long.
2 piece resin hull, 12 white metal parts, brass stack.
2 piece resin hull, 11 white metal fittings, brass stack. 11" long.
2 piece vac-formed hull, 23 white metal parts, 24 misc parts, wooden deck material.
OK. CSS Tallahassee was originally the Atalanta, a very fast iron-hulled twin screw steamer that ran the blockade several times before becoming the commerce raider Tallahassee.
You have to give Lone Star credit. Nobody else would even consider doing a kit of such an obscure vessel, but this is Lone Star's SECOND incarnation of the Atalanta/Tallahassee. I understand that the first version of this kit {LSM0121} included a vacuformed hull and wooden deck.
This kit is the second version (LSM0151) and can be made as either the blockade runner or the commerce raider. The kit includes resin upper and lower hulls, resin boats, cabins and gun carriages, along with metal guns, screw propellers and other fittings. Some dowel and brass rod were included for masts and davits. As with Lone Star's other kits, a fair amount of scratch-building is needed. A rudder and pintle must be made, along with shaft braces. The dowel included appeared too thin for proper masts and I used larger diameter dowel for those. You provide the anchor chain. No base is included. The two hull halves required a LOT of sanding to mate. I used after-market items extensively, including railing from Tom's Modelworks and metal ladders, deadeyes, davits and other items from BlueJacket. The casting of the upper hull did not impress me. The main deck appears to slope upwards from the stern to the bow, and has a distinct hump in the middle. The 84-pound gun, though, is a real beauty and practically worth the cost of admission by itself.
The only photo of the Tallahassee I could find showed a stump mainmast, looking more like a king-post than a real mast, although some copies of the photo say that the picture was taken while the main mast was being repaired.
Rusty White of Flagship Models has purchased all of Lone Star's ship kits, and has stated he intends to refurbish them and add some photo etch.
(MOL), review dated 13 February 2006.
2 piece resin hull, white metal detail parts.
2 piece resin hull, 2 resin pilot houses, 16 white metal parts, brass stack and chain. Injection molded gratings.
Resin upper hull, rudder, and lower hull. 20 white metal parts, brass stack and chain.
Two piece resin hull, hatchways, ballast. White metal prop, hydroplanes, rudder, torpedo, and lanyard spool. Brass prop guard and wood spar.
2 piece resin hull, 10 misc. resin parts, optional metal prop.
2 piece resin hull, 34 white metal parts, brass stacks, resin pilot house, wheel house and rudders, vac-formed ships boats.
2 piece resin hull, brass stack and prop shafts, white metal detail parts.
2 piece resin hull, 9 white metal parts. Resin turrets and stack. Injection molded grating. 9" long.
2 piece resin hull. Hollow resin turret, vac-formed turret awning, 2 styles of pilot house. White metal guns and fittings. 11" long.
Resin, metal, vacuform
FAIR. Lone Star's 1/192 USS Onondaga contains a resin upper and lower hull, resin turrets, boats, and a resin stack. The screw propellers are metal, as are the ventilators and anchors (molded in the stowed manner, with the crossbar folded along the stock). The turret awnings are vacuformed. Some styrene grating for the turret tops is included, and some brass rod.
The kit requires you to scratchbuild a rudder and rudder pintle, and you will need to scratchbuild propeller shaft supports. The upper hull is detailed nicely, but the upper and lower hulls had some overpour and required a lot of sanding to mate.
The turrets are nicely detailed. You will need to cut and bend some brass rod to make the awning supports. The awnings looked thick, so I replaced them with tissue wetted with white glue and brushpainted flat white.
Two boats were included, but photos of the ship indicate it had three (as does the line drawing included in the kit). The boats in the kit were poorly molded, but I had some in the spares drawer that worked well.
The stack is a solid plug of resin. Toss it and use some sort of thin-walled pipe cut to the right length.
Masts, flagstaff and jackstaff must be made from rod. This is a great kit to hone your scratchbuilding skills, and with some work will turn out very nice. (MOL), review dated 17 February 2005.
VERY GOOD: Very detailed model, good instructions, though they should clarify that you have to scratchbuild some of the parts. The Passaics were improved versions of USS Monitor in design. Includes a plan of the ship, and some painting notes. There are, obviously, no color pictures from the American Civil War, so the color notes are helpful if you want to build a specific vessel of the class. Went together very easily, very little overpour to be removed. (JP)
Their web site
Loose Cannon Productions is a partnership between David Angelo
(LCP East) and Hugh Letterly (LCP West)
Their addresses are:
LCP East:
David Angelo
10309 Westmar Road
Jacksonville, Florida 32218
LCP West:
Hugh Letterly
12384 East Cedar Circle
Aurora CO 80012
LCP EAST . Contains 10 mounts.
LCP WEST NEW KIT (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST NEW KIT (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST NEW KIT
LCP WEST
LCP WEST. Portrays the ship in 1909. Apparently can also portray the Salem.
LCP WEST
GOOD.
Note: it is rather difficult to put a time period to this kit as to service as these things knocked around for a while after the war without much incentive to change them.
This is a resin model with photo etch that is fairly simple as far as construction goes but putting the photo etch on it is just too much for my fat fingers in this small size. Decks on the superstructure seem a bit thick and rigging the cranes and derricks is enough to drive you to drink (unless you are a really good modeler and not an old crank like me). It is a nice little kit though with lots of possibilities for painting either as a military cargo ship or in chivvy colors as surplus.
Directions and Packaging are the usual stuff from Loose Cannon.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
LCP WEST
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
This kit represents Colorado right after the completion of her West Coast overhaul in March of 1942. For those of you that like a little diversity in your color schemes this will be the only iteration of a cage mast battleship (with both cage masts) in Measure 21. AFAIK there is no current model of Maryland in the right fit, only later in the war or early, neither being in Measure 21 with both cage masts.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with four frets of photo etch detail parts. All resin parts are molded in light gray. The photo etch (by Tom's Modelworks) is quite extensive and includes in addition to the usual ship specific parts for this class, 20 mm guns, a few crewmen and a full set of railings.
The hull is nicely detailed and correctly includes the bulges not found on Colorado class battleships until after Pearl Harbor. Deck planking is finely scribed, good detail on deck hardware and splinter shields are very thin (more on them later). The other parts are well cast with good surface detail but suffer from quite a bit of flash, most of it very thin, but still quite a lot. Cast separately from the turrets, the main battery gun barrels, however, are both cleanly cast and straight. I would usually prefer turned metal barrels but these are perfectly usable as is. You will need some brass rod to complete assembly of the masts and cranes. You will also need decals for the hull numbers as none were included.
The resin used in this kit is quite slick to the touch and may present adherence problems for acrylic paint so be sure to properly clean the surfaces of the mold release agent. (some modelers use Westley's Bleach White, a whitewall tire cleaner found in automotive stores, for this, if you do use it WEAR GLOVES). This is not a kit for beginners. The photo etch alone makes this ship too complex for most beginning ship modelers, however, anyone with a little experience with resin kits will have no problem.
Directions:: multipage double sided sheets that consist of a ship’s history, painting instructions, general instructions for working with resin, exploded view drawings of the assembly process and for the folding of the photo etch parts followed up with a sheet of side and overhead line drawings of the ship. All in all, better directions than most resin kits.
Packaging: heavy white cardboard box with no decoration. Hull is loose in the bottom of the box atop the bagged and braced photo etch parts, there is no packing material. All other parts are jumbled into one plastic bag with predictable results. This led to considerable damage to all those finely molded, thin splinter shields. Fortunately, Loose Cannon responded blindingly fast to my request for replacements for the broken parts.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST NEW KIT (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST
LCP EAST, Portrays the ship in 1944.
LCP WEST, Portrays the ship in 1944.
LCP WEST NEW KIT
LCP WEST
LCP EAST, Portrays the ship in 1944.
LCP EAST, 1917 version (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP EAST, 1918 version with fore & aft flight decks, 12 aircraft
LCP WEST
LCP WEST NEW KIT (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST
LCP EAST, Portrays the ship in 1921.
GOOD. (based on In-Box Review)
Note: These ships were designed to be mass produced for WW1 service but didn't make it in time. Between the World Wars 83 were built with almost 50 of them serving in WW2 where 15 were sunk. Some were built as passenger freight ships others as straight freighters. Parts to build the ship either way are included as are parts for war time service.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit that includes photo etch parts and decals. The parts are all molded in gray resin. The hull is a single piece casting with good deck detail but a lot of flash and extraneous lumps of resin along the waterline, not hard to remove but irksome. The other resin parts, and there are a lot of them, are cast in a manner similar to injection molded kits. Several manufacturers have tried this but only Loose Cannon seems to be able to pull it off without having tons of flash or malformed parts. Don't expect no flash on the parts but the amount bears a striking similarity to plastic injection molded sprues as far as the amount of flash is concerned. The photo etch set is extensive and includes everything you will need to create one of these interesting interior ships including railings.
Directions:: consist of six sheets of photocopied paper, 5 double sided and one single sided color painting guide. The directions, in English, are extensive and complete, they are primarily line drawings showing sub assemblies with alternative part arrangements for the different versions of the ships. I don't believe anyone could have trouble or difficulty with the assembly of this ship because of the directions. The greatest difficulty will be in working with the tiny and delicate photo etch. Paint recommendations are called out in White Ensign Colourcoats, enamels.
Packaging: heavy white cardboard box with the company logo and a line drawing of the ship on top. Parts are in plastic bags and arranged like a plastic injection molded kit on sprues. The photo etch and decals are sandwiched between cardboard and taped closed to prevent damage. All in all a very securely packed kit.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
LCP EAST, portrays a ship circa 1944.
LCP EAST, portrays a blimp circa 1944.
LCP WEST (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP EAST Apparently, this is a package of 10 LCMs.
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP EAST . Apparently, this is a package of 15 LCVPs.
LCP EAST (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST
LCP EAST
LCP WEST
LCP EAST
LCP EAST. Portrays the ship in 1963. Includes DASH and hangar.
LCP WEST
LCP EAST
LCP WEST, Portrays the ship in 1944.
LCP WEST, Portrays the ship in 1944. Apparently, the kit included 2 ships.
LCP EAST (out of production)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is nearly identical to Loose Cannon's USS Vincennes so please see my remarks as to that kits Parts, Directions and Packaging. Please note however that they are not absolutely identical. Differences in the two ships appear to have been properly accounted for by the parts and directions included in each.
(WJS), review dated 16 February 2006.
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP EAST (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST
LCP WEST
LCP EAST
LCP WEST
LCP WEST (in progress) (as of 2006)
LCP WEST
LCP EAST, portrays a ship circa 1944.
LCP EAST, portrays a ship circa 1944.
GOOD. (Based on In-Box Review)
Note: This really isn't a specific ship but rather a type as these were churned out of the shipyards by the score. Should the modeler wish to create a specific vessel considerable research will be needed to equip the ship as the prototype was. I suspect that most of us will be happy with just a generic fit.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model with an extensive set of photo etch and brass rod for completing the masts, cranes and yards. The resin is molded in medium gray and does not appear to have any sinkholes, pinholes, rough or malformed parts. The hull is a single piece casting with good detail. There is no flash at all on the hull of my kit. The other resin parts are cast on a combination of wafers and bars or plugs. This is different from other LC kits and more like the technique that JAG uses for its models. The parts on the bars or plugs are more difficult to remove requiring careful micro saw or knife technique. The wafers offer the same problems that wafers always offer: making them the right thickness and cleaning away the extraneous material. The photo etch supplied is complete and offers the modeler the choice of making a fully rigged vessel should he desire. Cargo ships of this era had very complicated arrangements of booms, pulleys and lines incorporated with the ship's king posts and masts. The skills required to use this PE are quite as extensive as it is.
Directions:: one huge double sided fold out sheet of photocopy paper in black and white that offers exploded view drawings of the various sub assemblies of the kit. All text is in English. The drawings break up the tasks into simple sections. Don't kid yourself though, this will be difficult to rig up working within the confines of this relatively small hull. Painting instructions are pretty general, specific ships will need to be researched.
Packaging: two part box similar to the Italeri armor and aircraft kits. Flimsy cardboard outer box combined with a flimsy cardboard inner tray yields a sufficiently strong total package. Part groups are bagged and taped to the inside of the tray to prevent movement. Brass rod is taped to the directions and the PE wrapped in paper and cardboard. Outside box is a wild high impact yellow with a line drawing of the ship on the top as artwork along with the company logo.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
LCP EAST
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: the kit depicts Vincennes as she appeared on USN plans for 1942.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with a fret of photo etch detail parts enclosed. The resin is light gray. The one piece hull incorporates elements of the superstructure, AA splinter shields, deck fittings, anchor chain, and fine deck planking. Hull sides have excellent detail molded in . There is, however, a good deal of flash and overpour around the waterline of this ship that will require some careful sanding to trim down. All the remaining pieces are molded on sprues similar to an injection molded kit. There is minor flash on some of the parts that appears to be easy to clean up. My sample has no pinholes, malformed or warped parts. This is a much more successful example of this technique than the similarly cast Hi Mold #039 USS Arizona. The part have good to excellent surface detail. Some of the smaller parts are provided with extras to defeat the carpet monster. Unusual for a resin kit is the inclusion of aircraft and a bunch of them at that!
The PE fret includes a host of small detail parts like 20 mm guns (also cast in resin duplicate), support structures for platforms, yards with foot ropes, cranes, catapult, pulleys, ladders, platforms, watertight doors, prop guards, and radar among other. A very complete set except for railings. A decal sheet which includes aircraft markings is also included.
You will need to get some metal rod or tubing to complete the masts but that is pretty much a given for any resin ship model and is necessary for plastic ones if you intend to rig them.
This is an unusually well made and complete kit that is forgiving to the fumble fingered small parts losers among us out there. It promises to be an enjoyable build.
Directions:: comprehensive multipage exploded view assembly diagrams similar to a good injection molded kit. They are far above the usual directions for a resin kit and better than some for injection molded kits I have seen.
Packaging: thin cardboard box within a box that is pretty sturdy. The box is well marked and has a grainy picture of the actual ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and well protected from damage within their sprue-like casting arrangement.
(WJS), review dated 16 February 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these other New Orleans class resin kits:
LCP EAST, portrays the ship circa 1944.
LCP WEST
POOR. I built the LW Models 1:400 scale kit of the K-141 Kursk. In the end, I just did the assembly, no painting. It just didn't seem worth it. I ended up getting the Zvezda 1:350 kit when it came out. The LW model is VERY crude, with raised panel lines the size of concrete walls, soft and inaccurate details, lousy parts fit. The joint between the upper hull and the sail is especially bad, needing all kinds of sanding and filling. The plastic has a lot of stretched, fine air bubbles which can create ridges if you sand too deeply. It reminds me of an old Aurora submarine model, especially their old Nautilus.
I'm keeping the LW model to modify into a science fiction spacecraft. That's about all it's good for. If you want to stick with 1:400, the Maquette kit doesn't stink anywhere near as badly as the LW does.
On the whole, however, I'd say trade up to 1:350 and a better kit. (CM), review dated 15 January 2004.
Their address is:
Matt Stein Models
P.O. Box 772
Sanibel, Florida 33957-0772
USA
Their website:
http://www.mattsteinmodels.com/
(DRW)
| Avenger TBF | Devastator TBD | FBM "J"propeller | FBM rudders, tail & sail planes | Helldiver SB2C/SBC |
| Savage AJ2 | Seabat HSS | Skyraider AD1 | Skyraider AD5W | Wildcat F4F/F3F |
EXCELLENT. The Fleet Ballistic Missile J-props come in a package of four.
The parts are nicely molded in a pale yellow translucent resin. There's a bit of flash between the blades, but nothing too serious. It's probably inherent in the resin casting process.
It is intended for the Renwal (later Revell) SSBN kits, most recently re-issued by Revell-Germany as the Andrew Jackson. (even though, as I've said many times, the kit is clearly supposed to be an Ethan Allen class...)
The propeller is a 7-bladed "J" propeller, typical of USN props of the early 1960s. I'm not an expert on USN sub propellers of that era, but it looks pretty good to me. Unlike photo-etched props, the blades seem to have some shape to them. In 1/200 scale, that can be noticeable.
I'd recommend this piece to anyone doing a Revell/Renwal Ethan Allen-class.
(DRW), review dated 27 October 2006.
GOOD. This is an attractive rendition of a Seabat/Seahorse/Choctaw (Sikorsky HSS1/HUS1/H34) designed to enhance those old Revell box-scale carrier and cruiser kits. The helicopters come in packs of four cast in a translucent yellow resin. Outlines appear accurate, and there is a good amount of surface detail such as textured vent grilles and raised canopy/window framing. The tails are even scored to make the option of depicting them folded easier. Matty Stein's sets are somewhat like craftsman kits with just the basics included, the builder being encouraged to flesh them out. As a result these kits aren't exactly "shake and bake", but what's there is good. In this case the fuselages are provided, but the rotors, landing gear, and markings are to be added by the builder. Fortunately, there are locator tabs and dimples on the helicopters to help place the rotors and landing gear, and appropriate markings can be readily obtained from other aftermarket sources such as Gold Medal Models or Starfighter Decals. Casting the helos in clear resin was an astute choice, leaving open the possibility of transparent glazing—although I would have liked it better if the resin were truly clear and not quite so yellowish in tone. Still, it's great to see these aftermarket upgrades for Revell's classic old kits, and these birds are a straightforward and affordable way to add a little variety to those old box-scale flight decks.
(TR) Review dated 3 January 2009.
OK. Dzik ("Wild Boar") is the same mold as the Ursula but with different decals and bow parts, the Dzik version having the original, sleek bow.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
OK. Same mold as HMS Undine; also the same as Mach Plast's Dzik/Sokól but with different decals and bow parts. I don't know when this mold originated, but as of 1994 it was sold by the Polish company Aga of Gdansk, later by Mach Plast and most recently by Mirage (as HMS Undine and as ORP Sokól with additional photoetch and resin parts). Like the Soviet made submarine kits, these Polish molds seem to get passed around a lot!
I built the Mach Plast version, which comes molded in medium gray plastic with decals for HMS Ursula (N59) and HMS Undine (N49). This kit is a very basic depiction of a British U-class submarine, the Ursula/Undine version having separate parts for the late bulbous bow and the Dzik/Sokól having the original, sleek bow. Aside from the bows and different decals, these kits are all identical. The hull is split conventionally down the centerline with a separate gun deck and two part conning tower. Fit is poor with little detail, and the detail that is present is heavy and awkward. Limber holes are depicted as deep depressions, safety rails and ladders are represented in high relief on the conning tower, and the waterline is indicated by a line scribed along the hull sides. Though heavy, all this detail looks surprisingly good once painted. Smaller parts not great, but I've seen worse. Propulsive gear, rudder and dive planes can all be used with a little reworking, but the anchor, twelve pounder deck gun and periscope shears are best replaced. Overall the kit is comparable to the Soviet made D, L, S, and M class subs or the Innex 1/400 boats, but not as good as Heller or the newer Mirage releases
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
OK. Sokól ("Falcon") is the same mold as the Ursula but with different decals and bow parts, the Sokól version having the sleek bow. It is also sold by Mirage (kit 44428) with a small photoetch fret and improved deck and bow parts in resin.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
FAIR. Minesweeper, originally Soviet T-43, very limited detail and very crude (but is there). (PC)
OK. Previously issued at various times since the 1980s by Novo and possibly other Soviet manufacturers. Also issued in the U.S. in the 1990s by Squadron "Encore Models" (as part of a set including D, L and S class subs) and more recently by AER Moldova (D, L, S, Sch and M class subs set). The Maquette release is exactly the same as the others but with different decals.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
OK. Previously issued at various times since the 1980s by Novo and possibly other Soviet manufacturers. Also issued in the U.S. in the 1990s by Squadron "Encore Models" (as part of a set including D, L and S class subs) and more recently by AER Moldova (D, L, S, Sch and M class subs set). The Maquette release is exactly the same as the others but with different decals.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
OK. Issued by Maquette, Novo, AER Moldova (as part of a set including D, L, S, Sch and M class subs) and possibly others, as these Soviet-era moldings seem to get around! The model is a very basic rendition of this 1930s-era Soviet sub, accurate for any of the 45 Series XII ?-type malaya ("small") boats built between 1936 and 1941. This one seems to be the product of the same design team that produced those D, L, S, and Sch class subs. Like them it is molded in thick plastic, the two part full-hull split down the keel-rudder-deck centerline with a separate gun deck and two part conning tower. Fit is poor with little detail. What detail is present is crude; the rails around the tower weather deck are represented by uneven raised lines relief etched onto the solid tower sides, as is what appears to be a safety rail. Small parts are awful, with the deck gun and all propulsive fittings best replaced entirely. That said, the overall shapes appear correct and the hull parts actually have decent recessed limber hole and torpedo door detail. It comes with a small common decal sheet Maquette issued with all their WWII subs with markings for M-200 as well as for D-6, L-4, S-13, and Shch-311
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
OK. Previously issued at various times since the 1980s by Novo and possibly other Soviet manufacturers. Also issued in the U.S. in the 1990s by Squadron "Encore Models" (as part of a set including D, L and S class subs) and more recently by AER Moldova (D, L, S, Sch and M class subs set). The Maquette release is exactly the same as the others but with different decals.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
OK-FAIR. Issued by Maquette, Novo, AER Moldova (as part of a set including D, L, S, Sch and M class subs) and possibly others, as these Soviet-era moldings seem to get around! The model is a decent rendition of this 1930s-era Shchuka ("Pike") class medium submarine. It appears to be the product of the same design team that produced the 1/400 scale D, L, S, and M class subs also sold by Maquette. Like them it is molded in thick plastic, the two part full-hull split down the keel-rudder-deck centerline with a separate gun deck and two part conning tower. Fit is not very good, but the overall shapes appear to be correct. Unlike the others, though, this one has some very delicate detail; the main deck parts are separate with very fine drainage hole detail, and the weapons are of noticeably better quality. The hull parts have well executed recessed limber and torpedo door detail, and the dive planes are not bad at all. It comes with a small decal sheet which includes basic markings for Shch-311 as well as M-200, D-6, L-4, and S-13. Although this is definitely not a state of the art kit, Maquette's Shch class boat is easily the best of their 1/400 "Great Patriotic War" submarines.
(TR) Review dated 30 March 2007.
Editor's Note: See notes under Yamato
Editor's Note: See notes under Yamato
Editor's Note: See notes under Nagato
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
(TR) Review dated January 2009.
Editor's Note: This kit is apparently a re-issue of the Revell PT-109.
Editor's Note: This kit is apparently a re-issue of the Revell PT-212.
Editor's Note: This kit may have been reissued by
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
This kit has been reissued by
Their address was:
Louis Marx & Co.
200 Fifth Avenue
New York, NY
Editor's Note: I have no idea what relationship, if any, this kit has with the Lindberg kit. The Marx kit is said to have more than 60 parts. (DRW)
All Matchbox kits are Waterline models, but at least in Germany, they released some Revell ships under the Matchbox label which had full hulls. (ME)
The Revell re-issues can be identified by their 1/720 scale as well. (DRW)
| Ariadne | Bismarck | Blücher | Duke of York | Exeter | Fletcher | Flower |
| GrafSpee | Indianapolis | Kelly | Narvik | San Diego | Tiger |
GOOD. Not as detailed as the Airfix Manxman, but at least they got the mine doors in the stern right. Much of the deck detail is molded into the deck. (DRW)
FAIR. I have got them from Alanger which licensed Matchbox reissue by Revell. Hull, superstructure and turrets are of correct shape. Details are molded well. One floatplane of correct shape is supplied with the kit. One should remember that Bismarck and Tirpitz kits are identical in the favour of Tirpitz. There is recognizebale molding "(c) 1979" in the sprues.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been re-issued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR/GOOD. It's the same kit as the Revell Blücher. So the bow had some minor details wrong for the the Admiral Hipper. Although not too bad for it's size, I don't like the mold-into-the-deck light AA-guns. (ME)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Very nice moldings, depcting Exeter in 1939, at action of River Plate. Davits and mast tops too thick, but AA guns very nice, as are boats. (GH)
GOOD. I have got her from Alanger which licensed Matchbox reissue by Revell. This is my first experience with Exeter model at all, and I have no que to label it FAIR Model is molded well, and details are ok.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued by
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: The Revell Germany reissue was reviewed by Bill Michaels.
GOOD. I have got her from Alanger which licensed Matchbox reissue by Revell. Everything is molded properly. One floatplane is supplied with the kit.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Pretty decent model. The light guns aren't ideal. The 5"ers are not the best, the 20mm are OK, and as Allan points out below, the 40mm are an atrocity. I suspect that Matchbox was trying to portray the 40mm guns with their canvas covers on, but they still look pretty bad. Invest in a Skywave Equipment set E-6. Too bad the Skywave set doesn't have any 5 inch/25s to replace the mediocre Matchbox originals. I may have to contact Corsair Armada about a set of theirs. Hull is decent, superstructure is not bad at all. (DRW)
I thought the 40mm quads were a bit crude, but it is 1/700 after all. (AP)
FAIR. Nothing explicitly wrong, but some of the details seem awkward somehow. The main gun mounts look kind of big, especially when compared the supposedly similar 4 inchers on the Matchbox Ariadne. It comes with some extra parts to make other members of the K-class. (DRW)
GOOD: Though the casting is a little on the heavy side, and the faux details are a bit exaggerated, this kit is a great starting point for a 1/700 Type 36A(Mob) kit. The hull is dimensionally accurate in all respects and portholes are nicely done. The only correction is that the forecastle break has to be moved forward 3 or 4 mm and shaped to a curve rather than a vertical drop. The kits guns and torpedo launchers are likewise dimensionally accurate, as are the various superstructure components. Notwithstanding the toy-like attempts to provide details (which are easily remedied), it's a great little kit.
(MWJ). Review dated 13 November 2003.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been re-issued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
OK. Hard to paint, and the bow knuckle is not very distinct. Many details will have to be replaced. 5"ers are acceptable, 40mms are not that great, 20mms are lousy. Splinter shields for 20mm and 40mm guns are much too thick. Torpedo tubes and gun directors are not very "crisp" looking. Skywave could use this kit in a sales brochure for their WW2 Equipment set. Sadly, you'll pay more for the Skywave parts set than you will for this entire kit. (DRW)
GOOD. I have got her from Alanger which licensed Matchbox reissue by Revell. According to my source, everything is molded properly, and details are fine.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued by
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. If the Sea Cat launchers had been better, I'd have said excellent. OK, the lattice masts aren't much either, but they're awfully hard to do in this scale. Hull is nice, primary and secondary guns look right. This kit portrays the Tiger after her helicopter conversion. (DRW)
Their website was http://www.midshipmodels.net/, They were affiliated with Yankee Model Works. They also sold kits from old Classic Warship, Blue Water Navy, MB Models, and Gulfstream Models molds.
We believe that Midship Models was sold to Blue Ridge Models sometime around 2015.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship as rebuilt in 1942.
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the Skywave Cleveland kit.
Editor's Note: Resin kit
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) This is a nice looking kit. As with the AFV-Club Knox class, it looks suspiciously Skywave-ish, even though Skywave has never issued a Gridley class.
The kit consists of two sprues, one of which looks like a parts pack. I'd be willing to bet that it's one from the MSM 1/700 Weapons Set. Both are cleanly molded, with little to no flash. The parts appear to be nicely detailed.
The instructions are clearly printed on glossy paper. A few of their illustrations are a bit "jaggy", (to use an old computer graphics term) but they convey the needed information well.
The kit includes a generic 1/700 decal set, printed by Microscale. (DRW)
The MidShip Models Gridley is a welcome addition to anyone's USN WW2 fleet; in fact, the Chris Decker's other offerings are also impressive. I'm sure there's a lot of difficulty and anxiety bringing a new line of kits to market, especially in the 1/700th waterline series. This scale has had some highs and lows over the past 35 or so years. For example, today many believe the Skywave products to be very accurate and highly-detailed, yet we tend to forget their earliest "2 for 1" kits (Fletcher, O Class, etc.) were crude and definitely absent a lot of detail. In that regard, I think MidShip deserves credit for presenting us with detailed warships.
An in-the-box review of Gridley would be complementary, I'm sure. The parts are crisp and nicely molded - not too many depressions or release tabs, and the attaching points to the sprue are reasonably thin - impressive. On the other hand the kit's instructions in my example were flawed. The had all the parts in the illustrations identified with exclamation points, percentage signs, and other caricatures (!, #, %, *, $, etc.) instead of Arabic numerals. This lead me to suspect something had been translated imperfectly. Thus, I began to doubt the overall QA of the kit and in particular its directions.
To begin assembling in 700th I spend considerable time in research and preparation. I annotate the instruction sheet, determine how I will assemble, paint and detail the various sub-assemblies; and write down my personal step-by-step procedures. Thankfully, MidShip has a beautiful P/E fret (by Mike Bishop) for this kit. In fact, it is ship-specific and has its own instruction sheet. But, here too, there are some flaws, primarily in the identification of the photo-etched parts' locations. Nevertheless, and experienced modeler should be able to overcome these minor shortcomings.
However, basic assembly turned more problematic than I anticipated. For example, the superstructure parts are molded, starboard and port, in 2 pieces - nice for detail, lousy for fit. One cannot glue them together and then expect to place the next deck level on top. More than just a seam to fill, the left and right sides do not extend to the edge of the next deck level (yes, indeed, there is NO overhang). Therefore, one must glue these parts to the upper deck part first and fill in a sizeable gap at the ends. But wait, the contours of the parts are not perfectly symmetrical. Leaving this situation alone would result in a tweaked (off camber) 02 deck; or, at the least, a challenging set of gaps to fill in. In frustration, I decided to scratch-build the whole superstructure sections from stock for the Benson (sister-ship to Gridley), which took much less time. The navigation bridge and aft superstructure sections were equally frustrating. So, like a resin kit, my Gridley turned into a "project."
On the other hand, the P/E was a real pleasure and I have only one tiny critique. I would have wished that the searchlight platform was included. Both boxes have art showing the pre-war / early war fit and these versions have an open girder style structure with a platform and searchlight atop. I found something an a spare GMM fret that substituted.
All in all, I'm thankful that Chris Decker produced these kits. We needed these and other USN destroyers. Some modelers might not notice or even care to re-work the fit for tighter seams / more accurate representation of the Gridley. And the P/E parts are spectacular. (In fact, the Atlanta class P/E from MidShip is also terrific.) Later kits have instruction sheets that are much easier to follow. So, my guess is that I may have purchased one of the first production kits, and that these minor deficiencies are ironed out in later editions.
In conclusion, the P/E details and molded-in detail of the basic kit go a long way to producing a spectacular model out-of-the-box. All that's needed is some patience, a steady hand, and a keen eye for accuracy. I'm now ready to check out Mr. Decker's MidShip resin kits...
(DRK), review dated 31 August 2007.
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Please see my review of the MidShip Models #303 USS Wichita as the way the ship is cast and packaged is the same. These are, of course, different ships but the notes on quality, etc are the same. The Directions differ slightly in this kit in substituting a line drawing of the ship for the actual ship photograph and have less extensive line drawings for the assembly process, so in that sense this kit is slightly inferior as far as instructions are concerned.
(WJS), review dated 4 March 2008.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. in box review
Note: Most of the parts are the same as those found in the Midship Models #MPK316 New Mexico kit. However, parts are included to differentiate the superstructure from her sister ship so this is not simply a rebox and renaming. Instructions and artwork are similar but with less of a mismatch of the photos to the kit contents.
Please see my review of the New Mexico kit as the remarks will be the same.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1938.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
VERY GOOD. in box review
Note: Most of the parts are the same as those found in the Midship Models #MPK316 New Mexico kit. However, parts are included to differentiate the superstructure from her sister ship so this is not simply a rebox and renaming. Instructions and artwork are similar but with less of a mismatch of the photos to the kit contents.
Please see my review of the New Mexico kit as the remarks will be the same.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
VERY GOOD. (based on In Box Review)
Note: Midship Models has been re-issuing improved versions of the old Classic Warships line of resin model kits. This is one of those ships.
Kit Parts: This is a multi-media kit of mostly resin parts that also includes white metal and plastic parts as well as a complete set of brass photo etch. Brass and plastic rod is included for masts and spars and a large sheet of decals containing various sizes and styles of USN hull numbers and signal flags is also enclosed. Midship offers some of the most complete resin kits on the market.
The photo etch is quite extensive and contains not only ship specific parts that some other resin manufacturers include but also the many detail parts we have come to expect from the aftermarket as well. The single fret contains gun shields, cranes, radars, catapults, yardarms, ladders, and railings for the entire ship as well as small AA guns and other nice little bits. The plastic parts consist of the usual Midship cruiser/destroyer sprues (2) of weapons and fittings. These parts are all crisply molded. The included white metal parts are also crisply molded with good detail and little to no flash which is about as good as it gets for parts of this type.
The pale creamy yellow resin parts are all crisply molded and contain good to very good surface detail. Main and secondary battery barrels are molded in resin, no brass barrels are included. However, the barrels are all straight and well formed. I don't think after market brass barrels are necessary but they would be a nice upmarket touch. Superstructure parts are molded on wafer thin carriers that will not be difficult to remove. The hull and incorporated lower superstructure are nicely detailed and well finished. The area of the hull around the waterline will require some light sanding for the proper smoothness, nowhere near as rough as the Midship Models #306 Salt Lake City kit. Deck planking, although much smaller than the Midship cruiser kits I have reviewed is still somewhat over scale but it gives the modeler the visual effect of planking better than most (however, the lines are all straight parallels with no but ends).
Note about deck planking: in 700 scale actually scribing a deck in scale is almost impossible and if done properly most people couldn’t see it anyway. The average deck plank was only about 4” wide or roughly 100 mm (there are lots of pictures available on the web that show sailors and marines shoes spanning two or more such planks when perpendicular). 1/700 of that would be .14 mm, not a size easily observed, much less preserved after painting!
Directions: Consist of four double sided 8 x 10 inch sheets of mixed text, photos and line drawings. Parts inventories consist of a series of photos of each parts medium (brass, plastic, white metal and resin) that correspond to a text listing of numbered and named parts. Assembly instructions are conveyed in highly detailed line drawings showing placement of the parts via colored circles highlighting the placement of subassemblies. This is quite a bit different than other Midships kits as each line drawing is of the complete ship with the area to be worked on circled. This may be confusing to a beginning builder. As always, the modeler with AMS will want good photographic references to get things exactly right, the rest of us will be just fine with the layout the way it is. There are no rigging instructions for your team of trained spiders, so it will be back to the internet for photos (admit it, you were already there ‘cause you didn't believe me about the planking, right?) There are no painting instructions provided. Given the bloodletting on the ship forums concerning the colors of the ships on Pearl Harbor's battleship row on Dec. 7, 1941 I can understand the reluctance of the manufacturer to commit to one color scheme, however, some painting instructions should have been included.
Packaging: This kit continues the Midship Models practice of using the same heavy white cardboard, oversized box for all of their 700 scale kits. The box is sturdy, well marked and nicely illustrated (the picture on the box doesn’t necessarily match the box contents, though, hint, hint, nudge, nudge, check the box top photo closely). All parts except the plastic sprues are bagged and shrink wrapped to a sturdy cardboard sheet to prevent movement in the box and subsequent breakage. The system seem to work well in all the examples I have seen.
Overall: I recommend this kit highly. It is well executed with very good, if not stellar, directions. It is far more complete than many of its competitors and is very well priced, especially when compared to recent plastic kits which require the purchase of additional detail sets to achieve a comparable effect. All in all this is a very nice kit that would appeal to the first time resin builder as well as the experienced resin veteran. The only negative I can find in the kit is the lack of painting instructions. Fortunately, there is a wealth of data to be found on the net for painting this kit. The obvious choice of color scheme in my mind being the pre-war standard Navy gray with bright teak decks and dark gray metal decks being the most flattering for this ship.
(WJS), review dated 12 December 2008.
VERY GOOD. in box review
Note: Box top states fit of kit to be 1941. The content does seem to match the configuration noted. This is not always the case, so care should always be taken with regard to camouflage schemes, etc. Research before you start.
Kit Parts: This is a multi-media model consisting in the main of light creamy yellow resin. There are some cast white metal parts and two sprues of gray injection molded plastic parts, one sprue of clear aircraft parts, along with a full set of photo etched brass, brass rod, plastic rod and a standard generic set of USN signal flag and number decals. The resin parts are all cleanly cast with little extra flash. Surface detail on the superstructure parts is limited. The single piece hull is very nicely cast with crisp molding and much less molded in hull and deck detail than the Midship Pennsylvania #MDK313. Minor cleanup along the waterline will be needed but nowhere else on the hull. Planking is of the continuous line variety with no butt ends but looks convincing enough if somewhat wide.
Some of the deck detail is over scale like the anchor chains but they could be scraped off if you are a fanatic about it. While this kind of thing makes some modelers crazy it doesn’t bother me. The shields for the upper deck 5 inch guns are a bit thick but have much more detail than the shields found on the Pennsylvania kit from Midship. The access covers just forward of turret three are a bit vague. I’m not a huge fan of main battery gun barrels in resin. While the kit barrels aren’t awful they aren’t good either so I would suggest that a set of turned brass barrels would really improve the kit tremendously. The upper deck 5 inch guns are provided in both resin and injection molded plastic, your choice. The few cast metal pieces provided are a little soft and will require a good bit of cleanup. The photo etch set is a very nice one and is quite comprehensive. The brass and plastic rod provided will be necessary to construct the mast. This is a simple structure so the materials provided seem up to the task. The rest of the kit should be as easy as resin gets.
Directions: Consist of five double sided sheets of standard (US) sized paper in English. One side contains a b&w photo of the ship with some statistics and some lawyer suggested caveats on the bottom. Two sides lay out the included parts and identify them. The majority of instructions consist of a combination of blown up cad drawings, line drawings and photos of the actual ship. Not all parts are shown in place and some are not identified. However, most parts are shown and identified as to media as well. You are on your own for the placement of all those railings. There are no painting instructions. The instructions are a marked improvement on those found in the Pennsylvania kit but still have a way to go to match ones found in most other kits these days.
Packaging: Heavy white cardboard box nicely marked with photos of the real ship (photos don’t always match the fit of the kit and this one doesn’t, it looks like a late war photo, however the photo on the directions looks much closer to box contents). Kit contents are bagged and locked down to a heavy cardboard sheet by shrink wrapping. All in all the packaging is almost bulletproof and would take a determined effort to damage the contents.
Suitability Note: not for the beginner. The somewhat vague directions (especially for the photo etch) and the complications inherent in assembling and painting a multi media kit require intermediate skills at a minimum.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note: This kit, or close variants of it, has been issued as
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Box top states fit of kit to be 1941. The content does seem to match the configuration noted. This is not always the case, so care should always be taken with regard to camouflage schemes, etc. Research before you start.
Kit Parts: This is a multi-media model consisting in the main of light creamy yellow resin. There are some cast white metal parts and two sprues of injection molded plastic parts along with a full set of photo etched brass, brass rod, plastic rod and a standard generic set of USN signal flag and number decals. The resin parts are all cleanly cast with little extra flash. Surface detail on the superstructure parts is limited but then again the parts in question didn’t have much to begin with on the real ship. The single piece hull is very nicely cast with crisp molding and lots of hull and deck detail. Minor cleanup along the waterline will be needed but nowhere else on the hull and cast in upper decks. Planking is of the continuous line variety with no butt ends but looks convincing enough if somewhat wide.
Some of the deck detail is over scale like the anchor chains but they could be scraped off if you are a fanatic about it. While this kind of thing makes some modelers crazy it doesn’t bother me. The shields for the upper deck 5 inch guns are a bit thick and lack detail so you will have to add that. The access covers behind the main mast repeat the usual mistakes for this class but it is not a deal breaker either. I’m not a huge fan of main battery gun barrels in resin. While the kit barrels aren’t awful I would suggest a set of turned brass barrels would really improve the kit tremendously. The upper deck 5 inch guns are provided in both resin and injection molded plastic, your choice. The few cast metal pieces provided are a little soft and will require a good bit of cleanup. The photo etch set is a very nice one and is quite comprehensive. The brass and plastic rod provided will be necessary to construct the masts. You should be warned ahead of time that quite a bit a care will be required to make that alignment work. The rest of the kit should be as easy as resin gets.
Directions: Consist of three double sided sheets of standard (US) sized paper in English. One side contains a b&w photo of the ship with some statistics and some lawyer suggested caveats on the bottom. Two sides lay out the included parts and identify them. One sheet and some small insets on the others lay out the construction. The majority of instructions consist of a single blown up line drawing showing most of the the parts placement. Not all parts are shown in place and some are not identified. However, most parts are shown and identified as to media as well. You are on your own for the placement of all those railings as well as folding the other parts like catapults. There are no painting instructions. Given the controversy in some circles as to the colors of the battle line at Pearl Harbor in 1941 I’m not surprised by this omission. As far as I’m concerned paint it standard pre-war navy gray and be done with it. (flak jacket donned!)
Packaging: Heavy white cardboard box nicely marked with photos of the real ship (photos don’t always match the fit of the kit but this one is close, photo looks like it is from the 1930s). Kit contents are bagged and locked down to a heavy cardboard sheet by shrink wrapping. All in all the packaging is almost bulletproof and would take a determined effort to damage the contents.
Suitability Note: not for the beginner. The somewhat vague directions (especially for the photo etch) and the complications inherent in assembling and painting a multi media kit require intermediate skills at a minimum.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
VERY GOOD. (based on In Box Review)
Note: Midship Models has been re-issuing improved versions of the old Classic Warships line of resin model kits. This is one of those ships.
Kit Parts: This is a multi-media kit of mostly resin parts that also includes white metal and plastic parts as well as a complete set of brass photo etch. Brass rod is included for masts and spars and a large sheet of decals containing various sizes and styles of USN hull numbers and signal flags is also enclosed. Midship offers some of the most complete resin kits on the market.
The photo etch is quite extensive and contains not only ship specific parts that some other resin manufacturers include but also the many detail parts we have come to expect from the aftermarket as well. The single fret contains cranes, radars, catapults, yardarms, ladders, and railings for the entire ship as well as 20 mm guns and other nice little bits. The plastic parts consist of the usual Midship cruiser/destroyer sprues (2) of weapons and fittings. These parts are all crisply molded. The white metal parts are about as good as it gets in this medium. They are fairly crisp, with little to no flash and contain good detail.
The pale creamy yellow resin parts are all crisply molded and contain good to very good surface detail. Main and secondary battery barrels are molded in resin, no brass barrels are included. However, the barrels are all straight and well formed. I don't think after market brass barrels are necessary. Superstructure parts are molded on wafer thin carriers that will not be difficult to remove. The hull and incorporated lower superstructure are nicely detailed and well finished. The lower hull around the waterline will require some sanding to achieve a smooth finish. It is not nearly as rough as that found in my sample of the Midships Models #306 USS Salt Lake City. Deck planking is somewhat over scale but it doesn't really detract from the effect being sought.
Note about deck planking: in 700 scale actually scribing a deck in scale is almost impossible and if done properly most people couldn’t see it anyway. The average deck plank was only about 4" wide or roughly 100 mm (there are lots of pictures available on the web that show sailors and marines shoes spanning two or more such planks when perpendicular). 1/700 of that would be ...14 mm, not a size easily observed, much less preserved after painting!
Directions: Consist of three double sided 8 x 10 inch sheets of mixed text, photos and line drawings. Colors are called out in Model Master Marine and White Ensign Models Color Coats paints. Parts inventories consist of a series of photos of each parts medium (brass, plastic, white metal and resin) that correspond to a text listing of numbered and named parts. Assembly instructions are conveyed in line drawings showing placement of the parts. As always, the modeler with AMS will want good photographic references to get things exactly right, the rest of us will be just fine with the layout the way it is. There are no rigging instructions for your team of trained spiders, so it will be back to the internet for photos (admit it, you were already there ‘cause you didn't believe me about the planking, right?) There are also no painting instructions even though a list of paint colors is provided, an annoying oversight.
Packaging: This kit continues the Midship Models practice of using the same heavy white cardboard, oversized box for all of their 700 scale kits. The box is sturdy, well marked and nicely illustrated (the picture on the box doesn't necessarily match the box contents, though). All parts except the plastic sprues are bagged and shrink wrapped to a sturdy cardboard sheet to prevent movement in the box and subsequent breakage. The system seem to work well in all the examples I have seen.
Overall: I recommend this kit highly. It is well executed. The only real negative, an important one for the novice builder, is the lack of painting instructions. Otherwise, it is far more complete than many of its competitors and is very well priced, especially when compared to recent plastic kits which require the purchase of additional detail sets to achieve a comparable effect. All in all this is a very nice kit that would appeal to the first time resin builder as well as the experienced resin veteran.
(WJS), review dated 12 December 2008.
VERY GOOD. (based on In Box Review)
Note: Midship Models has been re-issuing improved versions of the old Classic Warships line of resin model kits. This is one of those ships.
Kit Parts: This is a multi-media kit of mostly resin parts that also includes white metal and plastic parts as well as a complete set of brass photo etch. Brass rod is included for masts and spars and a large sheet of decals containing various sizes and styles of USN hull numbers and signal flags is also enclosed. Midship offers some of the most complete resin kits on the market.
The photo etch is quite extensive and contains not only ship specific parts that some other resin manufacturers include but also the many detail parts we have come to expect from the aftermarket as well. The single fret contains cranes, radars, catapults, yardarms, ladders, and railings for the entire ship as well as 20 mm guns and other nice little bits. The plastic parts consist of the usual Midship cruiser/destroyer sprues (2) of weapons and fittings. These parts are all crisply molded. The included white metal parts are less so. However, as they are limited to a single crane, anchors and float plane parts this isn't really a big issue.
The pale creamy yellow resin parts are all crisply molded and contain good to very good surface detail. Main and secondary battery barrels are molded in resin, no brass barrels are included. However, the barrels are all straight and well formed. I don't think after market brass barrels are necessary. Superstructure parts are molded on wafer thin carriers that will not be difficult to remove. The hull and incorporated lower superstructure are nicely detailed and well finished with one exception. The lower hull around the waterline is somewhat rough and will require quite a bit of sanding for a smooth finish, an exception from the rest of the resin parts. Deck planking is somewhat over scale but it doesn't really detract from the effect being sought.
Note about deck planking: in 700 scale actually scribing a deck in scale is almost impossible and if done properly most people couldn’t see it anyway. The average deck plank was only about 4” wide or roughly 100 mm (there are lots of pictures available on the web that show sailors and marines shoes spanning two or more such planks when perpendicular). 1/700 of that would be .14 mm, not a size easily observed, much less preserved after painting!
Directions:: Consist of four double sided 8 x 10 inch sheets of mixed text, photos and line drawings. Colors are called out in Model Master Marine and White Ensign Models Color Coats paints. Parts inventories consist of a series of photos of each parts medium (brass, plastic, white metal and resin) that correspond to a text listing of numbered and named parts. Assembly instructions are conveyed in line drawings showing placement of the parts. As always, the modeler with AMS will want good photographic references to get things exactly right, the rest of us will be just fine with the layout the way it is. There are no rigging instructions for your team of trained spiders, so it will be back to the internet for photos (admit it, you were already there ‘cause you didn't believe me about the planking, right?) Painting illustrations are provided for two camouflage measures.
Packaging: This kit continues the Midship Models practice of using the same heavy white cardboard, oversized box for all of their 700 scale kits. The box is sturdy, well marked and nicely illustrated (the picture on the box doesn't necessarily match the box contents, though). All parts except the plastic sprues are bagged and shrink wrapped to a sturdy cardboard sheet to prevent movement in the box and subsequent breakage. The system seem to work well in all the examples I have seen.
Overall I recommend this kit highly. It is well executed with very good, if not stellar, directions. It is far more complete than many of its competitors and is very well priced, especially when compared to recent plastic kits which require the purchase of additional detail sets to achieve a comparable effect. All in all this is a very nice kit that would appeal to the first time resin builder as well as the experienced resin veteran.
(WJS), review dated 12 December 2008.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts: While predominantly a resin kit this model includes injection molded plastic parts, white metal castings and brass rod for the masts and yards as well as an extensive brass photo etch detail set. The kit also includes an excellent set of decals with plenty of spares for all those other USN kits that don't come with decals from other manufacturers. The resin parts are cast in a creamy white bubble free and virtually flash free resin. A minor amount of easily removed extra resin is found along the lower hull. The moldings contain good surface detail and are easily removed from either pour stubs or very thin resin wafer. Shields and decks are thin and well executed. Another minor carp might be that the anchor chain is molded into the deck and is a little heavy. Main and secondary battery gun barrels are cleanly cast in resin and appear to be nicely done. Brass or turned aluminum would be nicer but this kit is already jam packed with value...
As to the plastic parts supplied it would appear that MidShip has taken the position that it will supply the common elements found on USN ships such as AA battery, some secondary armament, ships boats, torpedo launchers, rafts etc. in all its kits with sprues of injection molded parts. Considering that they plan to issue a large number of USN kits in the future this is probably a very good plan. The only criticism that can be fairly mentioned is that, as inevitable with the injection molding process, some parts will be over scale in 1/700 (the most glaring example being the 20 mm mounts).
This is addressed in the extensive photo etch provided. If you want to work with the more to scale 20 mms provided on the PE you can do that as well. The PE is very complete and includes not only ship specific structures like searchlight towers and cranes but a full set of railings, including the curved forward deck type. There are radars, floater baskets, catapults, anchors, braces and a plethora of small detail parts to please just about anyone. Except for paint and glue the modeler will need nothing to complete a very impressive model of this ship.
Note: as to the date noted on the box top the modeler should always check photographic and plan sources to confirm that the fit that the ship is modeled in depicts the year stated.
Directions:: very nicely executed full sized multi paged set in color and black and white which includes a photograph of the actual ship, ship statistics, photographic inventory of parts and a clear and concise series of exploded view drawings showing the assembly process. Painting instructions are called out in White Ensign Models Colorcoats. As with the note on fit above, the modeler should also verify paint colors as well. Also included is a brief catalog of Yankee Modelworks and MidShip Models products.
Packaging: a truly unique approach for resin models is found in this company's packaging. The models arrived in heavy white cardboard boxes with a photo of the actual ship as the cover art. Inside, the resin and brass components, along with the decals were separately bagged, the hull was then laid diagonally in the box and those parts were then shrink wrapped to a cardboard base plate insuring absolutely no movement of part against part. The injection molded sprues were then bagged and placed atop the shrink molded plastic. This system creates the most secure packaging I have ever seen in resin kits.
(WJS), review dated 4 March 2008.
Tel: +1 706 946 1120
Fax: +1 706 946 1121
Check out their web site (available in English or Russian) (DRW)
| Akula | Alpha | C-class | George Washington | K-class | Kashalot | Lafayette |
| Nautilus | Project 613 | Project 641 | Project 673 | Project 1710 | Shchuka | Skate |
| Skipjack | Sturgeon | Sturgeon Long Hull | Thresher | |||
Editor's Notes: NATO code name Typhoon, Russian code name Akula
Editor's Notes: NATO code name Alpha, Russian code name Lira
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) On initial examination, this looks to be as good as their Skate kit.
(DRW), review dated 10 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: NATO code name Whiskey.
Editor's Notes: NATO code name Foxtrot.
Editor's Notes: NATO code name Beluga, Russian code name Makrel'.
EXCELLENT. This is a really nice little kit! It compares very well to the drawings and measurements I used for references. Detail is remarkably good, thanks to photo-etched decks. I had to fair them in with putty, but it wasn't really that hard. This is the only kit I know of in this scale.
(DRW), review dated 10 March 2017.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Pyro Cutty Sark.
GOOD: This is the Imai 1/350 Eagle kit, with the addition of a lower hull. First off, let me correct the kit's most glaring error: Labeling the kit as "USS Eagle". This is, of course, a model of the US Coast Guard Cutter Eagle-the box should say "USCGC EAGLE".
The Eagle was one of five sister ships, built by Nazi Germany in the mid 1930s. The Horst Wessel served as a training ship for the German Navy before the war, and then was used as a transport in the Baltic during the war. Seized as a war prize at the end of the war, the US Coast Guard christened her "Eagle", and with a mixed crew of USCG and German personnel, sailed her to the US in 1946.
Since 1946, Eagle has served as the training ship for the US Coast Guard Academy in New London, CT. (The USCG Academy is similar in many ways to the US Naval Academy, but with a student body about one fourth the size.) Every Academy cadet will spend at least 6 weeks at sea during summer training cruises aboard Eagle.
The Eagle has a riveted steel hull, with welded steel masts and yards. The steel decks are covered with a layer of teak planking. The standing rigging is wire rope, while the running rigging is the traditional rope. Eagle is rigged as a bark (or barque), which means she has square sails on the fore and main masts, but only fore-and-aft sails on the mizzen. (A "ship rigged" vessel would have square sails on all masts.)
In the following 55 years, some changes have taken place. The original boat stowage amidships has been replaced with stowage for modern inflatable life rafts. An enclosed pilothouse was added at the front of the bridge, to protect the radar, radios, and other electronics from the weather. In German service, the mizzen's large spanker sail was two piece, to make it easier to handle. It was later changed to one large sail. In the last ten years or so, the sail has been changed back to the two-piece sail. (The kit has the two-piece sail.) Also added in the 1970s were davits with standard USCG 26 foot motor surf boats (MSBs), replacing the oar-powered boats carried on the quarterdeck. In 1967, the Coast Guard added the "Coast Guard" and red and blue stripes to the hulls of all cutters, except Eagle. Eagle added these markings in 1976.
I understand that this model was originally released as an Imai kit, and was a waterline model. Imai had a series of modern tall ships in 1/350 scale, all waterline models. Minicraft later acquired the molds, and re-released a number of ships from the line. When the kit was released, Minicraft made three improvements: (1) Added a separate lower hull molding, (2) Included modern USCG decals, and (3) cut the retail price almost in half. When this kit first appeared on the shelves of my local hobby shop in 1997, you could sometimes still find the Imai waterline version of the kit for $20. The Minicraft version of the kit (in the box with the wrong name, and an optional full hull) sold for $10.
The model basically represents the Eagle as she appears today, which makes it the best of the Eagle kits, IMO. Revell produced a kit in 1/253 scale of Eagle, that has been around since the mid 1950s. The Revell kit is a model of Eagle from that era, though I suspect it isn't totally accurate for that time period either. The Revell kit does not include a pilothouse, has the infamous molded on railings.
Kit Parts:
The kit consists of about 65 plastic molded parts, molded in various colors. Also included are two sheets of vacuum-formed sails. Portholes are a little oversize, perhaps, and are molded as shallow holes. They are round, with good edges, and in a straight line.
The Eagle has a couple of pronounced raised rubrails along the hull, and these are reproduced in the model's upper hull. The lower hull has no molded detail at all, but that is probably better than overdone plating lines as found in some kits in this scale.
My copy of the kit has fairly clean moldings no signs of mold mis-alignment, and very little flash. The model is molded in several colors, to minimize painting. The hull and decks are in white, with the masts and spars in a medium brown. The lower hull is molded in bright green. There is several feet of a fine brown thread for use in rigging. A display base with nice wood grain is molded in black, and there are a pair of chrome pedestals to go with it.
Details:
The decks have fine recessed lines engraved to simulate the planking. The inclined ladders (stairways, to you land lubbers) are molded as part of the main deck- the "Aztec Temple" type of stairs you see on some kits. The appearance of the finished model would be improved by replacing these with some decent photo-etched units. The masts are molded in one piece, and each yard and gaff/boom is molded in one piece as well. The yards have the right overall shape, but are a little over scale. (The topmasts and upper yards would be too fragile if molded in scale, I suspect.)
There are no railings molded in, which is a good move in this scale. Generic 3-bar photo-etch railings could be used to add this detail. I estimate you'd need about 16 inches of railing material. There also are no ratlines included in the kit-this is another area where photo-etched brass would be a good solution.
Probably the worst detail of the model is the boats and davits. Eagle carries 26 foot long motor surfboats, the same boat used on all larger USCG Cutters. The kit's boats look more like a ship's longboat from the 1800s. Also, the davits are simple "J" davits, which is completely wrong as well. Nobody makes an MSB in this (or any) scale, so scratch-building is the only way to get an accurate boat. If you don't want to scratchbuild, then I'd suggest going with a 26 foot USN motor whaleboat. Remove the canvas screens, make the ends a little more blunt with some putty, and use standard Navy destroyer-type davits, and you've made a big improvement.
Instructions:
The instructions are copyrighted 1997. There are nine major assembly steps. The instructions are primarily pictorial, with a few captions in English. There is very limited rigging instructions- only major elements of the standing rigging are included.
The use of the light plastic vacuum formed sails is the optional last step, but there is no running rigging instructions at all. Simple representations of the sheets for the fore-and-aft sails and braces for the square sails are shown in the photos of the completed model.
The only color information is a single statement: "Paint decks tan. See box photos for detail colors." The box sides have four color photos of the model to show colors and decal placement. Too bad the colors used in the photos are wrong in a couple of key areas. For example, the lower hull should be anti-fouling red, not green. The masts and yards should be USCG "spar" in color, not brown. The deck fittings should be spar in color, not red or orange.
Decals:
The kit provides decals for the modern version of the Eagle, as shown on the box. They consist of the hull stripes and "Coast Guard" lettering, and the ship's name for the stern. The decals look pretty good, but maybe a bit thick. The different colors are properly registered. The USCG Shield is part of the red stripe, and is the worst looking of the lot. Still, it isn't bad-it is only 3/16 of an inch in size. I'm sure that an aftermarket decal outfit could do a better job here, but what are the chances such a sheet will ever be produced?
(WLM), review dated 21 August 2005
GOOD. Reissue of the Imai kit.
(TR) 20 April 2007.
Same as Hasegawa Missouri
OK/FAIR. Same kit as the Aoshima Soryu. I remember as a kid buying this instead of the Aoshima version because it was so much cheaper. Apparently the only changes Minicraft made were to (badly) reprint the boxtop and to translate the instructions into English. Otherwise, I think the two were identical. Minicraft no longer makes the kit, but it is still available from Aoshima.
The kit is sort of low-average for the 1970s when it was first issued. It has a good basic hull, and with some basic work can be made into a solid replica. The outline is right, and it comes with the very nice set of 16 early war aircraft (5 Zekes, 4 Vals, 4 Kates, and 3 Judys) common among the Waterline Series Japanese carriers. Nevertheless, the kit has a lot of problems. Parts fit is not the best, and many of the smaller components in my copy were ruined by misaligned molding. Detail throughout is very heavy, and there are a number of nasty sinkholes which need attention. Thick flash is abundant. The flight deck has a series of heavy raised lines representing the landing stripes, and the deck itself is overthick. Antislip surface detail is present, but overdone. Small parts including AA weapons, boats, masts, searchlights, etc. are a mess. Even had they not been ruined by the misaligned molding as in my example, they are crude and lacking in detail. I understand that Aoshima has remedied this in more recent releases by including Leviathan upgrade sets to replace these parts, which should improve the kit considerably.
The Minicraft/Aoshima Soryu kit can be built into a good model, but even with the Leviathan parts it would take a lot of work. Perhaps a better (if more expensive) alternative for a 1/700 scale Soryu would be Pit-Road's 2002 offering of the ship in resin.
(TR) Review dated 13 April 2007.
Seems to be an imperfect copy of the Skywave or Dragon. Has fit problems, gaps. Mixture of pre- and post- upgrade parts; e.g. has VLS, but narrow hangar. (JP)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Like their Spruance, this seems to be an imperfect copy of the Skywave or Dragon. Has minor but annoying alignment problems. (JP)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Re-issue of the old Entex kit. Builds to a very impressive model. Bulkheads, ventilators, etc. well detailed. Unlike other Entex kits, deck railings are not molded on. Some mold misalignment evident on round parts (capstans, masts, etc.). Fit of the forward well deck will need work. Hull plating is a bit overdone and simplistic but looks OK when done. My samples were molded in multiple colors (black, tan, white, buff) this makes painting more difficult. Assembly of upper decks & deckhouses is complex & a bit tricky to get things lined up. (LB)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Bismarck.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in her current configuration.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in her original configuration.
Editor's Note: See notes under Iowa-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Iowa-class.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
This is a plastic model molded in medium gray. A decal sheet is included as well as metal shafts and clamps for motorizing the model. There are no photo etch parts included. The hull is a one piece casting that has been compromised somewhat by the motorizing features.
The casting is rough in places and will require sanding and the possible addition of hull detail to supplement the cast in portholes (some of which are incomplete). There are no lines demarking the waterline. The deck(s) are cast in four major pieces. Assembly will leave one major seam visible at the second forward turret. Fortunately, this ship, like many other Italian heavy units did not have a planked deck in this area so fixing this joint will be much less of a problem that with a planked deck. Interestingly enough, this seam also falls right at the point where the ship's air recognition stripes would have ended. For those unfamiliar with Italian Navy WW2 practice you should know that for a time during the war the decks on the bows of large ships were painted in diagonal red and white recognition stripes so that the German and Italian airmen wouldn't bomb their own ships. It made the ships look like huge barber poles. If you do not wish to model your ship with these stripes you will need to research the time frame and fit of the vessel without them. I was unable to tell from the materials in the kit what time frame the kit was supposed to represent but judging by the lack of AA armament I would say that it was early in the war. Main and secondary battery turrets are smooth with no detail molded in. While there are no Aztec steps to deal with there are also no parts provided other than a few very clunky over scale ladders to go from deck level to deck level. The limited areas of planking are done in the old style of raised lines rather than engraved ones. Obviously, there are no butt ends to the planks. Deck hardware detail is limited to a few major pieces. The other parts of the kit are cleanly cast but clunky and over scale, especially the ships boats and the few AA guns included. You will need to purchase a photo etch detail set for this kit or it is going to look pretty bare. You will also need to buy some brass rod to supplement or replace the plastic parts for the masts and spars if you plan to rig this ship. Rigging in this scale, even if only rudimentary, is a must.
This kit has two things going for it: 1. it is really cheap. 2. it is the only model of its type in plastic in 1/350 (Italian heavy cruisers, that is), at least at this writing. The modeler may wish to seek out the Tauro 1/400 Pola (which this kit bears a striking resemblance to) or Zara, Gorizia and Fiume the rest of the members of the class, which are better models.
As far as assembling what is given to you in the box the directions are pretty good as is the packaging. Painting instructions make some major gaffes (such as calling out flat white for the planked decks) so, as usual, with most kits do your own paint research before opening those bottles.
(WJS), review dated 14 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Possibly a reissue of the Trumpeter kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: >From pictures on the net, it appears to have a two piece hull, split along the waterline. The lower hull is red, sort of like a Nichimo kit. It has fore and aft deck pieces, (sort of like the bow pieces on a Skywave kit) so the deck is in 3 pieces. (DRW)
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Their address:
Mirage Hobby
Tyniecka 36 Str.
02-621 Warsaw, Poland
Their website: http://www.mirage-hobby.com.pl
GOOD. Some fragile parts were broken in shipping. Difficult to check accuracy, since I can't find any color photos of the ship, though the black and white ones agree on shape and design of the paint. Also, note that the instructions are _only_ in Polish - I am lucky enough to attend a Polish church, and one priest kindly translated the important information.
This model has also been issued as the Pilsudsky, Batory's sister ship.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
FAIR. This has been one of the more challenging kits I've assembled. I also had numerous fragile and broken parts,especially davits and cargo booms. The boat deck didn't seem to fit where it was supposed to, so I had to trim it so that the rear stairs lined up. Davits were made up of several tiny parts that were impossible to assemble without tweezers. The decals crumbled when I attempted to place them, so I ended up scanning the remainder and making paper ones. The final drawing on the instruction sheet was cryptic, making it unclear where several things went. Parts generally matched the drawings, but some parts were left over, and one (a ventilator) didn't have enough.
I used a color photo of the cardstock kit for details on rigging and colors, and black and white photos for adding the missing windows. The bridge front and most of the superstructure came without windows. Still, it's a rare subject, which makes it worth getting.
(RLAW), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Announced circa 2010. Portrays the ship at the St. Nazaire raid in 1942.
GOOD. This kit is a reissue of the Innex Tarantul I (kit 1002). Variants have also appeared as Pauk (kit 1001) and Tarantul III (kit 1003). In addition, Mirage Hobby has issued derivatives of the kit as ORP Metalowic (Polish Navy Tarantul I), BG-50 (Ukranian Pauk I), MPK 254 (Pauk I sub hunter), Novorossiysk (Pauk II), INS Athay (Indian Navy Pauk II), and Project 1241.1M (modified Tarantul III). Consisting of only about 40 plastic parts, the Hiddensee model is a good basic representation of a Soviet Project 1241 RE missile corvette from the mid 1980s. Shapes and dimensions are correct, and all the major details are represented. The kit is somewhat rudimentary, but what is there is good. Hullform is nice, and the two twin STYX KT-138E missile launchers, focal points of the model, look convincing. Fit is just average, but there isn’t really much (apart from the solid molded lattice mast and over thick aerials) that actually needs to be replaced. Most improvements to this kit would just be added detail; my list might include photoetch railing and doors, opening up the solid bridge windows and funnel, and perhaps a few small bits and pieces on the weapons. A highlight of this particular issue is the comprehensive decal sheet from Techmod. Surprisingly extensive for such a small vessel, the sheet provides full markings and flags for the ship’s service with the East German People’s Navy as the Rudolf Englehofer (1985-89), as Hiddensee in the West German Bundesmarine (1990-91), and even as the Hiddensee later appeared while serving with the U.S. Navy as a tactical research ship (1991-96). A decent, no frills build right out of the box, this model captures the distinctive shape of these formidable little vessels very well. The basis is definitely there for a detailed build if you want to invest the extra effort, and that excellent decal sheet might just inspire you to go for it! (TR) Review dated April 2010.
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the Innex Tarantul I
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in late 1942.
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the Innex Pauk
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in June, 1937.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Innex kit.
See Batory
Editor's Note: Apparently, a variant issue of the Innex Tarantul I
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Innex kit.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in late 1942.
GOOD. The hull shapes of Mirage's Type IIs are basically accurate, with the conning towers and decals especially well done. The Types IIa, IIb, and IIc have, like the prototypes, the same basic hulls with superstructure and weapons differences. The plastic in all the kits is the same with alternate conning tower and weapons parts. The decals are unique to each kit with two alternative subs on each sheet. Shapes are good, but the faint plank detailing of the decks and the rather crude renditions of the drainage openings in the hull sides of all the subs were a little disappointing. The drainage vents are only depicted by indistinct dimples on the hull sides, and they aren't even in line. These could be fixed of course, but it would be a major job of filling in and reopening the dozens of oval holes on four different boats. Fortunately, Mirage has since released separate photo etch upgrade sets for all the Type IIs which include hull panels with the corrected limber holes. These sets are terriffic, if you can find them.
These little guys were a kick to build. Yeah, they've got problems, but when was the last time you had this much fun for less than seven bucks? (TR)
Editor's Note: See U-2
Editor's Note: See U-2
GOOD. The hull shapes of Mirage's Type IIs are basically accurate, with the conning towers and decals especially well done. The Types IIa, IIb, and IIc have, like the prototypes, the same basic hulls with superstructure and weapons differences. The U-149 (Type IId) has a different hull and superstructure but still shares other parts in common with the other three. Happily, Mirage Hobby didn't succumb to the temptation to reuse the earlier hull on the Type IId to save tooling costs; it was a noticeably different shape, and they nailed it pretty well. Nevertheless, the faint plank detailing of the decks and the rather crude renditions of the drainage openings in the hull sides of all the subs were a little disappointing. The drainage vents are only depicted by indistinct dimples on the hull sides, and they aren't even in line. These could be fixed of course, but it would be a major job of filling in and reopening the dozens of oval holes on four different boats. Fortunately, Mirage has since released separate photo etch upgrade sets for all the Type IIs which includes hull panels with the corrected limber holes. These sets are terriffic, if you can find them. (TR)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship at Pearl Harbor in December, 1941.
Editor's Note: A 2005 reissue of the Revell Oriana.
Same as Revell 1/568 kit. (reviewed by Jodie Peeler)
Same as the old FROG kit.
GOOD. Also issued by Tauro as the Zara (kit 204) and Gorizia (kit 203).
(TR) 20 April 2007.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging please see my remarks for Modelkrak #J-004 IJN Yashima which also references Modelkrak #J-003 IJN Shikishima, as the contents appear to be almost identical to the Yashima kit.
(WJS), review dated 14 February 2006.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: please see my remarks for Modelkrak #J-003 IJN Shikishima as the contents appear to be identical or almost identical.
(WJS), review dated 14 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Mikasa Class.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Note: packaging and box art declare this kit to be the battleship Iwate, but it is really an armored cruiser, not a battleship.
Kit Parts: although most of my remarks are really the same as found in Modelkrak #J-003 IJN Shikishima, there are some differences. The molding in this kit is generally cleaner and there appear to be no incomplete parts in my sample. This is a somewhat better model than the battleships I have reviewed.
Directions:: virtually none. A single sheet of paper is provided with grainy line drawings and an incomplete exploded view assembly diagram constituting the whole shebang. A really tough build if this is all you have to go on.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as the box art. Hull is bagged and then placed in a larger bag with all the other parts...a recipe for broken parts if there ever was one. The two bags and the "directions" are then wrapped in a single sheet of bubble wrap and dropped into the box with no other packing materials.
(WJS), review dated 14 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, this kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin model. All parts are molded in yellow/tan resin. Hull is a one piece casting incorporating the lower superstructure. Quite a bit of detail is cast into it including very fine planking lines for the deck. The booms for the torpedo nets are also cast into the sides of the hull and are convincing enough, eliminating what I think of as a nasty chore with brass or plastic rod. With the right painting technique it will be more in scale than adding rod. However, you are on your own for the actual rolled up netting.
The hull does have a nasty surprise waiting under the waterline, a large chunk of resin that must be sanded off the whole length of the ship (this is similar to the ISW Commander Series Kearsarge kit). All other parts are cast mostly on pour plugs, some on small wafers. Most show at least some surface detail but a few are hardly more than unidentifiable blobs of resin. Several of the ships boats are incompletely cast. You will need metal rod or tubing to fabricate the masts and yards. You will also need a good set of plans to complete this kit as you are really all on your own.
Directions:: virtually none. A single sheet of paper is provided with grainy line drawings and an incomplete exploded view assembly diagram constituting the whole shebang. A really tough build if this is all you have to go on.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the real ship as the box art. Hull is bagged and then placed in a larger bag with all the other parts...a recipe for broken parts if there ever was one. The two bags and the "directions" are then wrapped in a single sheet of bubble wrap and dropped into the box with no other packing materials.
(WJS), review dated 14 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Mikasa Class.
Although this is a completely different ship, with the appropriate different parts and structure my remarks are the same for Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging as the Modelkrak #J-003 IJN Shikishima. (WJS), review dated 14 February 2006.
Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit.
Editor's Note: See notes under Sovremenny Class.
Editor's Notes: Presumably, a re-issue of the Trumpeter/Skywave Skywave 1/700 Kirov.
Modelist has released this kit as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kirov-class.
Editor's Note: Possibly a reissue of the Revell Oriana.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Kirov-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy-class.
FAIR.
This kit is probably the best of the Zhengdefu 30cm reissues, if only because the hull proportions are somewhat closer than the others. The hull is similar in many ways to the Spruance and Sovremenny class kits, with its 30 cm length and rounded rectangular cross-section, but the beam is only a little bit too wide, so I can forgive it somewhat. The mold makers made some attempt to represent the knuckles in the hull, but they really didn't capture them correctly. The hull form is still way off.
The superstructure and upperworks are genuinely good, but I believe that they were copied from the earlier Skywave 1/700 kit. The kit comes with a weapons set that looks exactly like an enlarged Skywave E-8 set. The parts are useful, of course, but no points for originality.
(DRW), review dated 24 January, 2011
OK.
Like the Spruance and Udaloy, this Zhengdefu re-issue has a "boxy" hull that is optimized for motorization, and not accuracy. It is too wide for to accurately represent the Sovremenny. Like the Udaloy, the mold maker tried to represent the knuckles in the hull, but they didn't get it right.
Again, like the Udaloy, the upperworks and superstructure are quite good, but I am absolutely certain that it is directly copied from the Skywave Sovremenny. The kit comes with a weapons set that looks exactly like an enlarged Skywave E-8 set. The parts are useful, of course, but no points for originality.
(DRW), review dated 24 January, 2011
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Sovremenny-class.
This kit has been issued as:
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Spruance-class.
OK. This kit has useful parts for those of us who like to work in larger scales, such as 1/570 or 1/600. It is not a good basis for a correct scale model of a Spruance-class destroyer.
The scale works out to be about 1/576, but that is only correct for the length. The kit has a beam of about 1.5", (38mm) which is much too fat. It should be about 1.15". The kit is motorized for pool/pond use. Most of the detail parts and weapons are properly proportioned, though.
Much of the kit seems to be an enlarged pantograph of the ARII Spruance. No points for originality here, but some of the details are reasonably nice.
Many of the detail parts are quite useful for weird projects in 1/570 or 1/600 scale, though I suspect that the related Ticonderoga kit would have even more useful parts. Still, the Mk 29 Sea Sparrow launcher seems a bit under scale. The 5"/L54 Mk 45 gun mounts need to be reshaped a bit. The Mk 16, (ASROC) the Mk 26, and the Mk 41 launchers will make excellent additions to my parts box. Masts and radars are OK, but not brilliant.
I plan to cut the hull down a bit to make a 1/700 scale SCS. It is about the right beam, and can be easily shortened.
(DRW), review dated 18 January, 2011
Editor's Notes: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Ticonderoga-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy-class.
Editor's Notes: 30 cm box scale. Believed to be a re-issue of the Zhengdefu Udaloy-class, reviewed by Mike Leonard.
Modelist has released this kit as:
The combined company was purchased by Binny & Smith (a unit of Hallmark Cards) in 1994.
Revell-Monogram was purchased by Alpha International, the parent company of Gearbox Toys & Collectibles, in September of 2001.
In November of 2002, Revell was purchased by RM Investment Group LLC, a private investment group. In May of 2007, Revell was sold to Hobbico, which is best known for its line of RC aircraft. At last word, they are still based in the suburban Chicago area.
While they produced wooden kits of WW2 ships in their early years, Monogram really didn't get into plastic ships until the 1970s. Monogram plastic ships were "box scale", and all the hulls were 16" (406mm) long. A few ships coincidentally came out in even-numbered scales. Monogram ships have a characteristic one-piece stand which attaches to a central hole in the bottom of the hull. After Aurora left the plastic model business in 1975, Monogram bought many of their molds, and some are still occasionally re-issued. (DRW)
Some early Monogram balsa wood ship kits included:
These were produced around 1945-46. Like Monogram's 1970s vintage plastic kits, at least some of these kits were 16" long. This may help explain the "box scale" of the later plastic ships.
Thanks to Art Anderson, for some of the information on the history of Monogram. (DRW)
Check out their web page.
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
POOR. Same kit as Kennedy, totally inaccurate for America. This kit may date back as far as 1973. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit, circa 1977.
FAIR. "In-box-review" Nice detailed parts, but hull and main turrets seem to be wrong. Hull is too sleek, it looks more than the Scharnhorst, and turrets have a wrong shape. (ME)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Kit dates back to about 1969. (DRW).
It's fairly good out of the box (if plain) as the ships were originally built. However, the kit comes with the LAMPS I Seasprite, but the hangar is still in its earlier, smaller DASH configuration. The fix--enlarging the hangar with sheet plastic--is straight forward. Other details to be added might include the transom doors for towed torpedo decoys and/or VDS sonar-towed sonar array. The gun director can be built slaved to the 5" mount, and the missile director/illuminator can be slaved to the Mk 22 launch rail; both of the connections are made via plastic bars connected to the bases of the parts. The system is clumsy, but it doesn't detract much from the kit. If the details are somewhat clunky, they are also easy to fix/replace where necessary. Though the kit scales to about 1/310, 1/350 PE sets can be readily adapted to work, and doing so will make for a very nice model, but be prepared to fill and sand.
(SPE) Review dated February 2000.
GOOD/EXCELLENT;
I love this kit. This was the U.S. Navy's first FFG class. With the proper decal sheet you can build as any one of the six ships built.
Fit is not bad at all. The biggest problem is the SQS-26 sonar. First the fit is off. No mater how you place it you will have a gap on one side and a protrusion on the other. I sent a great deal of time correcting this. Once I was done I noticed that the shape was lopsided and the flair was wrong toward the waterline. So I had to sand one side to match the other and correct the shape again. Next the trailing edge of the dome was wrong. There should be a pronounced knuckle on the end. So sand to shape. After all of this I can't tell it from drydock photos.
The deck is not bad after you remove all the molded on mooring lines. The remaining deck detail is very nice.
The hangar is a the wrong size as mentioned by Steven. The thing you have to remember when making these corrections is that there is a walkway under the sides of the Hangar on the main deck. Looking at the hangar from the stern and it will have sort of a thick. Top heavy “T” shape. Also remember that the hangar was telescopic, so you will have to make corrections for this as well in the flightdeck. I choose to build one of these with the hangar in the extended position. For anyone reading this, don't do this! It was a bear and not recommended. The hangar door is a roll up door also.
The best thing about this kits is that it is almost two kits in one! It can be converted to Garcia Class FF by replacing the Mk22 missile launcher with a second 5in/38 gun mount and replace the SPG-51 with a second Mk56 GFCS! So easily. Acquiring a second 5in/38 is the biggest problem. Next replace the SPS-52 A/C antenna with a SPS 40 radar antenna. (Known to some as the "Can't see a thing EVEN if it WASN'T always broke, Radar!").
There is a excellent article on this very conversion in the old Scale Ship Modeler, Sep 1984 I think.
Now to the kit itself. The SPG-51 C/D is horrible as is the SPS-52B. I hear that GMM makes PE to improve the SPGs on the 1/350 Kidd DDG kit. This is probably you best option. There are no Whip antennas anywhere. Helo deck drop nets need attention, PE replacement from GMM. ECM & ECCM antennas on the mast are not correct as I believe that WLR-1 was installed. SLQ-32 was actually carried on the carried on the entire class.
The anchor and chain forward need replacing. Both are molded in. The chain is fairly easy to fix, the anchor is not. I am still working on a replacement. The Hangar would look good opened up and detailed. Since you have to build a hangar anyway, why not, just do it in the retracted position!
The SH-2 Seaspite LAMPS looks really good, borderline great. With some PE and TLC it is quite awesome. Drill out the engine ducts and exhaust. Add some detail to the Landing gear, MAD and the all the rotors.
The ASROC launcher is crude but fixable. It lacks a lot of detail. A total after market replacement would be great, but unlikely. I suggest remove the box from the trunion assembly. Then correct and detail on the upper and lower portions as separate assemblies and when finished reconnect (another current project). The 5"/38 mount is beautiful. Needs a little more detail though. The bridge can be opened up. Sand out the windows with a fine file. Place a deck inside with a few very small squares (for consoles and a couple 1/350 scale sailors and use a PE ladder for windows and new hatches to finish.
Whether you build the Brooke or convert to a Garcia, both had Stern transom doors for dipping sonar. It adds a lot to the appearance. I am working on opening up the doors to reveal the inside.
Kit can be displayed with other 1/300 scale Destroyer type ships by Revell, Lindberg, Lee, and others.
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Monogram released this kit as:
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit. Fortunately in this case, it works out to an even 1/500 scale.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. If it had had real lattice towers for the aft SPS-30, it would have been near perfect. The hull is a gorgeous sight. If only Revellogram would pantograph that hull to a slightly larger size for their Baltimore Class..... SPG-49 directors (which are quite nice, btw) turn with the Talos missiles. Missile launchers, especially the Talos, are quite nice. Kit represents the Albanys as first converted. Originally issued around 1976, re-issued under the SSP program 1996. WARNING: the 1996 reissue has some NASTY sink holes in it. (DRW)
I agree on hull with David, but find masts and guns poor. Those and lattice masts need rebuilding. Disregard box label of 'Battleship Chicago'. (GH)
Editor's Note: Gernot is right about the 5-inch guns. I forgot about those. Only German-issued versions are marked "Battleship Chicago". (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1967. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Same kit as Chicago, above. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
POOR. Same kit as Kennedy, totally inaccurate for Constellation. (DRW)
Snap together model
Scaled down model of the JFK featuring
the starboard canted smokestack. Marketed as the Constellation, but
totally wrong for CV64. Small model, measuring 8-7/8" by 2-1/4". Model
designed so starboard center elevator raises as port elevator lowers,
and vice versa. One dimensional mast with antennae. Airwing consists of
17 tiny planes: 4 A3 Skywarriors, 6 F4 Phantoms, and 7 A4 Skyhawks.
Fair amount of detailing, flight deck details and markings molded into
the deck. Aircraft crane is oversized, and the forward and aft sponsons
lack decking. Display stand included. One decal for the entire landing
area, which is black with white landing stripes, and the ships numbers.
Decal obscures deck details, so these areas are better to paint. Model
goes together well, but is clearly for beginners. Expect to do some
filling and some other work to make it into a nice little display. (RD)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1977 . Said to be 16.375 inches long. Possibly related to Monogram's USS United States kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1977. Said to be 16.4375 inches long. Could be an old Otaki mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit was issued around 1977. Said to be 28.5 inches long. Probably a re-issue of an Imai kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1989 . From pictures, it looks like mostly a re-issue of the Scarab. (DRW)
FAIR. Same kit as Nimitz, below. (DRW)
1978 re-issue of Aurora kit.
OK. Re-issue (circa 1978) of the Aurora Forrestal, but with a much improved aircraft set, including F-4s, A-5s, A-3s and others. 30 airplanes, 3 helos total. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Monogram released this kit as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. See Leahy, below. The Halsey kit may be the original, issued around 1969-1970.
Monogram's 1979 re-issue of the Aurora I-19 kit.
OK. See Monogram Forrestal. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
FAIR. Much detail is lost in this scale. BPDMS molded into the deck. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Monogram issued this kit at various times as:
even though it is only correct for the Kennedy.
For comparison, check out the Academy Kennedy (1/789)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
POOR. Same kit as Kennedy, totally inaccurate for Kitty Hawk. (DRW)
Included an Underwater Demolition Team and rubber boat.
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit. Fortunately in this case, it works out to an even 1/400 scale.
GOOD. Hull is nice, and the superstructure is reasonable, but for some inexplicable reason, two of the SPG-55 missile directors are completely missing. Too bad, as the two that it's got are perfectly nice. (better than the too-thick Skywave 1/700 versions, BTW) Directors turn with the missiles. Kit dates back to about 1973. (DRW)
Very good model, very accurate for its age, just missing a few details. The missile directors are missing because the ship was originally built without them. It'd take some work to update it to her apperance in the 1980s. (JP)
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
GOOD. Kit is the class very early. I have never seen any photos of these ships with only two SPG-55 antennas, except when still fitting out at the shipyard and very early shipyard trials. I do not believe these ships were ever actually commissioned with less than all four SPG-55s installed and I believe the class only served with all four directors installed. (I could be wrong I was not there) I am still researching this through navy contacts, but to date I have looked at dozens of early pre-commissioning photos and have found two photos of the Leahy underway with only two directors. All the delivery phots show the ships at commissioning and delivery with all designed antennas.
If interested in 1990 configuration the kit is missing the CIWS and Harpoon canisters port/starboard amidships of later refits. The Harpoons replace the 3in/50 mounts. Also communication antennas on the bow and whip antennas on the stern, OE-82 antennas on the superstructure (note the SATCOM antennas were square during the 60's and 70's and were the round trash cans afterwards), SPS 49, SPS 10 and SPS 48C or E antennas, depending if you build with NTU upgrade. On the superstructure at the 03 level a platform needs to be constructed for the SLQ-32 V3 ECM/ECCM antenna (which you will have to build or modify from a Dragon DD). There are numerous websites with volumes of photos for reference as well as Norman Friedman's Illustrated History of US Cruisers and a box superstructure added aft for the additional flag facilities.
It might be possible to use the SPS-48 from a Heller Kersaint DDG.
Could be used to build a the Bainbridge CGN-25 but the length of the hull is wrong, it would have to be lengthen by about 32 scale feet amidship. The entire topside must remain static during this process. Therefore the deck should lengthen the same but with two different cuts. One just forward of the Terrier launcher (about 10 scale feet) and just aft of the first Mack (about 20 scale feet).
Also possible is the Belknap class. A Mk42 5in/54cal gun would have to be attained to replace the aft Terrier launcher and the addition of approximately 14 scale feet amidships. Also the superstructure is different in certain areas especially aft with the telescopic helicopter hangar and flight deck.
WEM makes a 1/350 Mk42, CIWS, and Harpoon quad mounts for the above mentioned conversions. They may look a little large, but it is the closest available without scratch building.
A Truxtun is next to impossible as the armament configuration is reversed and the superstructure is almost completely unique.
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Monogram has released this kit as:
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
FAIR. Same kit as New Jersey. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
FAIR. It's better than the Revell 1/535, but not by much. The hull is slightly more accurate, but still wrong. The space between the "twin skegs" is filled in, and the lower part of the bow is more blunt than bulbous. The kit has 20mm guns molded into the deck, rather like the old Revell kit. But where did those rectangular splinter shields for the 40mm on the 16 inch turrets come from? Directors move with the turrets, but they got the wrong director: the 5 inch directors move with the 16 inch turrets. Oops! The bridge on the Revell kit is better. Odd scale (it is NOT 1/600 as the box sometimes claims). If Revellogram really wants to put out a decent small New Jersey, I'd much rather see them re-issue the Revell 1/720, which while still cheap, is much better overall. (and at least the 1/720 kit can use Skywave parts...) (DRW)
GOOD. This kit builds the ship as she would have appeared in WWII, with scout planes on catapults. 16" guns raise and lower, main turrets are linked to directors. Makes a presentable model OOB.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
FAIR. Much detail is lost in this scale. BPDMS molded into the deck. It is NOT 1/600, as often advertised. Scale is kind of odd, so you can't even use Skywave parts on it. Kit dates back to about 1977. (DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Circa 1955. (DRW)
Editor's Note: VietNam era riverine patrol craft. Kit originally issued circa 1967, re-issued under SSP in 1994. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Same kit as Brooke, above. (DRW)
OK. See Monogram Forrestal. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1986 in conjunction with the TV series "Miami Vice" Said to be 13.375 inches (about 34 cm) long.
Monogram released this kit as:
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1994 in conjunction with the sci-fi TV series "Sea Quest DSV". Said to be 19.5 inches long when complete. (DRW)
GOOD. 1979 re-issue of the Aurora kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same kit as Scarab. Issued circa 1986. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Originally Otaki?? 1/150 scale. Said to be 26" long. Barque/paddlewheeler (DRW)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
See Bismarck, above.
GOOD. Reissue (circa 1979) of the Aurora U-505. SSP reissued in 1996. I didn't like the colors on the painted example on the sides of the box of the 1996 re-issue. Monogram is in Morton Grove, and the real U-505 is in Chicago. Next time they re-issue it, they really should go take a look at the real thing for color references. It's not that far....... (DRW)
Editor's Note: The late 18th century American frigate. Kit issued about 1977. Possibly a variant of the Monogram Constitution Kit. Possibly Re-issued by Revell. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit dates back at least to 1968. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1956. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1956. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 16 inch (406mm) "box scale" kit.
FAIR. Same kit as New Jersey. (DRW)
Around 1970, MPC was purchased by General Mills' "Fundimensions" division.
ERTL bought MPC in 1986, after MPC's parent, "Fundimensions" decided to unload the kit maker.
Ertl had also bought AMT in 1982 at a bankruptcy sale of Lesney assets. Lesney produced the Matchbox kit. This could explain the Matchbox San Diego kit that was issued in an MPC box.
For the most part, MPC didn't make ships. MPC did have a longstanding relationship with Airfix, and some Airfix car kits were released under the MPC label, and vice versa. MPC also re-issued some Airfix ship kits. Apparently, there was a flurry of Airfix re-issues around 1982. Comments that apply to Airfix kits also apply here.
MPC also apparently issued a series of 1/1200 waterline kits. One contributor has suggested that they are from the old Casadio/ ESCI molds.
Ertl apparently kept many of MPC's old car model molds, (but not the Airfix ship molds) and the rights to the brand name. Occasionally, Ertl issued old MPC car models under the MPC name, as part of their "Buyers Choice" program.
Round 2 Corp. of South Bend, Indiana, bought MPC (as part of their deal to buy AMT) in late 2011. Their website is here: http://round2corp.com/product-category/mpc/
MPC's old address in Michigan was:
Model Products Corporation
126 Groesbeck Highway
Mount Clemens, Michigan 48043
(DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Ajax kit. For some unknown reason, the box says it is a destroyer. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Ark Royal kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably a reissue of the Airfix Cutty Sark kit. Said to be 19 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Fearless kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Forrestal kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Graf Spee kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Iron Duke kit. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. This is the 1983 MPC reissue of the Airfix King George V kit dating from the late 1970s. As with the original release, it depicts the ship in early fit as in 1940-41 with UP ("Unrifled Projectile", a kind of rocket) mountings on the second and third turrets and with an interesting gray and green camouflage scheme. The MPC reissue was apparently identical to the Airfix original except for the box art and instructions.
Along with the Repulse and Belfast, this is among the finest of Airfix's 1/600 scale ship kits. To start with, the model scales out correctly to 1/600 scale, and the proportions of the major components are spot-on. The kit assembles easily, and every surface is covered with pleasing, accurate detail. The main deck is especially nice, with discreet raised wood decking, spurnwater, ground tackle, and a multitude of square ventilators and other details crisply molded in. The hull is also excellent, with scuttles, chocks, hawse collars, and KGV's complex degaussing cable beautifully represented. There are even miniscule raised letters spelling out "KING GEORGE V" on the stern… outstanding! I also appreciate that the kit is thoughtfully designed for the modeler. For example, the left and right halves of the full hull have grooves incised on the inside at the waterline to make removing the bottom for an at-sea display easier. Also, that superbly detailed main deck is molded as a single piece, so there are none of those frustrating seams cutting across the deck (as with Tamiya's otherwise excellent 1/700 scale KGV). In fact, the design philosophy behind this kit seems to have been "maximum detail with minimum fuss". Superstructures assemble conventionally with bulkheads built up of mating surfaces, allowing a high level of molded on detail. Doors, scuttles, stairs, carley floats and other equipment festoon nearly every vertical surface, building up a convincing sense of complexity without burdening the modeler with an overwhelming number of parts. Similarly with deck surfaces: lots of great detail but with relatively few parts. Armament also looks good with accurate shapes and delicate rivet detail on the main turret roofs (although some minor sink marks there somewhat marred my copy). The 14 inch rifles are molded individually, allowing them to be elevated independently such as when firing ranging salvoes. Nice. Other armament are also good, with the 2 pounder pom poms and UP projectors credibly represented. The ship's Supermarine Walrus seaplane, though simplified, is convincing.
The kit does have its flaws. The 5.25 inch gun turret shapes are slightly off, though they are still useable. The UP projector molded on the quarterdeck is poorly defined; it would have made more sense for it to have been a separate part like the ones on the turrets. The ship's boats are pretty good, but three of the thirteen have huge gashes on their hulls to fit into awkward mounts molded to the deck. Finally, Airfix's designers made a game attempt to depict the lattice construction of the funnel caps and crane booms by molding them open, but accomplishing this convincingly in scale is really beyond the limits of plastic injection molding technology.
On the whole, however, this is an excellent kit. More accurate and better detailed than the comparable 1/600 Aurora King George V or the 1/570 Revell King George V, the MPC (Airfix) King George V has a winning balance of overall accuracy, detailing, and ease of assembly. If you want a 1/600 scale KGV, this is definitely the kit of choice!
(TR), review dated 30 January 2010
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Moscow kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Prinz Eugen kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Repulse kit. For some unknown reason, the box says it is a battleship. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Matchbox kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix Forrestal kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix kit. For some unknown reason, the box says it is a battlecruiser. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Airfix kit. (DRW)
FAIR. Originally released by Casadio as one of their "Miniships" line in the early 1970s, this small scale Yamato has been reissued over the years by Almark of England, ESCI of Italy, Sablon of France, Model Power and MPC in the United States, and most recently by Revell Germany. The same plastic has also been marketed at times as Yamato's sister Musashi. As of 2010 it is no longer listed in the Revell catalog, but it can still easily be found on online auctions and at swap meets. The kit reviewed here is the MPC issue from 1976, but apparently the only differences among the various releases have been in the instructions and box art.
This toy/model from the early 1970s is very
simplified, snap-together affair designed for quick building. When I
built it as a kid back then I was among those for whom the kit was
apparently designed: wargamers and young modelers (the instructions
recommended kid-friendly NOTOX plastic glue... I can still remember
the weird lemon scent of that stuff!). At the time I appreciated the
snap together design, but the poor fit of the parts was annoying. And
the model is very basic: while the one piece hull is recognizably a
Yamato, the shape is generalized and toylike. The complex main guns and
funnel are reduced to single parts, and the prominent mainmast is
missing entirely. Aircraft are only single float monoplane
representations, in any case wrong; if they are meant to be Aichi E13A
"Jakes", they should have twin floats, if Mitsubishi F1M
"Petes" they should be biplanes. The 127mm type 89 guns
(identified as 5 inch AA guns in the instructions) are only vaguely
correct, and the numerous 25mm triples are molded directly to the decks
and turrets.
Still, the kit has its good points. First of all, at a
mere 27 parts the ship goes together quickly, and although simplified,
the completed model does resemble the Yamato. The bridge windows are
neatly represented as recessed squares, and the aircraft well deck aft
actually has some depth to it. In addition, although not mentioned in
the MPC instructions, two extra main turrets are provided so you can
depict the ship at an earlier point in her career without the augmented
AA on the turret tops, or perhaps as the Musashi.
This simple model is certainly no masterpiece of the kit maker's art, but it is superior to comparable Pyro and Lindberg offerings (which, admittedly, are pretty awful!) and less expensive than the various pre-assembled wargaming and collector models out there. Taken for what it is, this little Yamato is not a bad kit at all.
(TR), review dated 30 January 2010
Nautilus Models
Box 564
Bagdad, FL 32530
Their web site: http://nautilusmodels.com/
Editor's Note: Updates Revell Lionfish WW2 Fleet sub to Bluefish in summer of 1943.
EXCELLENT. Resin parts with optional photoetch. Early in the war, it became apparent that the large conning towers of the Gatos were visible from some distance on the surface, even at night. In an effort to reduce the silhouette, the conning tower was cut down, and plating removed from the periscope shears. This conning tower conversion retains the high sides around the bridge and the overhead cover to support the periscope shears. Detailing such as ship's whistle, handgrabs, bridge cockpit instruments, cigarette deck scribing, and deck level ammo lockers is included on the tower. Strangely, for all the details, the bridge hatch down to the conning tower interior is absent from all of these conversion kits. Gun sets include armament appropriate to that time period. Superb upgrade for the Revell kit.
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
Editor's Note: Updates Revell Lionfish to Harder in summer of 1944.
EXCELLENT. This resin conversion portrays a late war Gato, where the sides of the conning tower were further cut down, leaving only 6 support beams to carry the overhead lookout and periscope shears support. Again, careful detailing with many nice features in resin, including bridge instruments, deck level ammo lockers, handgrabs, and ship's whistle, among others. Resin gun sets appropriate for the period. An optional brass photoetch includes railing and gun sights. Minimal flash removal and preparation of set is necessary. Excellent upgrade set.
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
Editor's Note: Backdates Revell Lionfish to Gato as built in 1941.
EXCELLENT. Resin parts with optional photoetch available (SM-01). These sets of conversion kits were designed and scaled specifically for the Revell Lionfish kit. The Gato class as built had a large conning tower with an enclosed steering station at the fore, surrounded be glass deadlights (portholes). The periscope shears were plated over for additional streamlining, and a small 3 inch deck gun was fitted. This conversion kit accurately captures the look of the Gato class as they came off the ways in the very early 1940s. The conning tower design allows one to drill out the deadlights and put in Krystal Kleer "glass", if desired. The periscope shears, dead on in accuracy, are cast as a separate unit. Little flash removal is needed, and it is necessary to carefully sand the bottom of the tower down so it will sit flush with the deck. Prepare the deck by removing the locating tabs for the kit tower. After supergluing the tower on the deck, I run a bead of thin white glue around the perimeter, and follow with a moist Q-tip to simulate a weld seam between the deck and tower. Add some HR white metal cleats and other parts, give it a coat of dull black and the model looks like it is ready to patrol. These conversion kits are superb.
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
Editor's Note: Backdates Revell Lionfish to Icefish.
EXCELLENT. This resin kit converts the Lionfish (which comes with a poor Gato tower) into a Balao class submarine. The Balao class were distinguished by smaller, more open conning towers and thicker hulls (which we fortunately don't have to model). Rather than the lookout platform being on top of the sail as in the Gato class, the enlarged and conical shaped free standing shears carried small lookout platforms on either side. These shears are faithfully reproduced as a separate resin assembly, complete with lookout platforms, periscopes, and radar antenna. The short and simple three sided cockpit of the Balao class is beautifully rendered, complete with bridge instruments. The lack of a bridge hatch down to the conning tower interior (lacking in all the conversions) is particularly noticeable with the open cockpit. It can be readily rectified with an HR Products SS hatch. The gun sets are nicely executed in resin, with the different 5 inch guns appropriate to this class of submarines. Again, using one of these kits and a little more upgrading (white metal cleats, drilling out limber holes, etc.) can really take the Lionfish kit to a whole new level.
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
Editor's Note: Full kit.
Corrects Revell Yorktown kit to Coral Sea configuration.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
The address I have for Nichimo is:
Nichimo Co. Ltd.
135 Sano City
Japan
Nichimo has also released the Yamato-class BBs in (at least) 1/550 and 1/600 scales as well. (MMS)
EXCELLENT (based on in-box inspection) This kit departs - like all Nichimo IJN carriers - from typical two-part hull, instead having simple, full hull; Akagi's quite believable - includes fine curved bilge keels. Motorizeable, also has keel finial keel for conversion to static model. Detail starts right on hull - hundreds of recessed portholes (don't even need drilling, if painted properly). Main deck bow and stern suffer from over-scale diamond-star texturing (typical Nichimo) but also have plenty of accurate-looking details, including beautiful hawse-hole guides fully piercing anchor deck. (Expert painter could even do justice using molded-on anchor chain; looks quite nice.) Detail maintained on superstructure and massive stack, includes hand-holds, vent gratings, lattice supports and yet more portholes. Just right amount of relief; wouldn't replace any with PE. Flight-deck supports a little light on relief; can be replaced with PE to great effect. Many other lattices and masts - swing-arm radio masts, for example - quite delicate and look great as-is. These and open-mount 5" AA guns could, with very slight modification, be built to elevate and depress. Detail of these 5" guns - breach-blocks and recoil cylinders - among best of any 1/500 scale guns anywhere. Same for flight deck; a thing of beauty, textured to indicate planking, crash barriers and arrester cables, etc., and with three deep (though featureless) elevator wells – so each can be shown anywhere from raised to fully lowered. Flight deck underside depicts girders extensively, particularly fore and aft. A couple sink-mark issues associated with this, but very mild in my (2) kits and I think very manageable. Ship's boats good - though not outstanding - which is word describing aircraft; panel lines and overall shapes entirely convincing for Vals, Kates and Zeroes. About only fault in them is strong angularity - easily fixed with light filing (much easier than if too rounded). A great kit overall; if you have Hasegawa 1/450 Akagi, this is just a half-notch lower. Will build up truly beautifully right out of the box - even more with PE (Gold Medal Models makes a nice set) and an expert paint job. Little more work will even make its masts and guns elevate, rotate, etc. Or bash one into a Kaga - what I (also) plan to do. Will make great complement to your Revell 1/480 Yorktown. (MMS)
GOOD. The graceful Akizuki ("Autumn Moon") is one of a series of ships Nichimo released in big 1/200 scale back in the 1970s. The kit depicts the ship as built in 1942 and was also released, with additional parts, as the late war Hatsuzuki (kit 2012). These models come complete with high speed electric motors and metal gearboxes to operate twin counter rotating screws. They are also dimensionally accurate with a good amount of convincing surface detail… but it is their large size that really makes them stand out. Akizuki, one of the bigger destroyers of her era, builds into one of the more imposing models of the series; at over 26 inches in length, this is a model that gets noticed! Construction is like most of Nichimo's other ship kits with a full hull provided in two thick plastic parts divided at the waterline, the underwater portion being molded in red. Main decks come in three parts including a foredeck, main deck, and a separate removeable center section on the main deck to allow access to the running gear. I have never been fond of such motorization compromises, but at least this one is well thought out with the join lines being mostly hidden under and behind the ship's boats. I also like how Nichimo concealed the on/off switch by placing it under the number three turret; just rotate it to the left to switch on the motor! The bridge structure, funnel, deckhouses, and gunhouses assemble conventionally, but these multi-part components require some care to get right since some of the assemblies are perhaps a little too complex. The aft director and searchlight mounts on the deckhouse, for example, could have been more simply designed to make alignment easier and create fewer seams. In addition, some parts, such as the main gunhouses, are a little too simplified for the scale. Parts are in general a bit thick (probably to provide extra strength for handling), and the solid molded bridge windows, funnel caps, and depth charge racks definitely detract.
On the plus side, some of the smaller fittings, like the 25mm twin mounts, are very good. There is also a fair amount of surface detailing, much of it excellent. In fact, this raised detail is one of the better features of this kit. Although the anchor chains are molded to the foredeck and the numerous watertight doors are inconsistent, other raised details such as the distinctive IJN non-slip pattern on the steel decks and the inspection panels on the reload torpedo stowage bays are outstanding. So despite some imprecise 1970s parts design, the kit assembles into a into a good looking, well detailed model that would probably be an excellent runner. It can also provide a solid basis for a more detailed static build. Improvements might include:
In addition, many details may be added or replaced with aftermarket upgrades. Although there are not the number of detail sets available in 1/200 as with the more popular scales, there are a few. Sets that would enhance the Akizuki include: Tom's Modelworks IJN destroyer photoetch brass set (No.2004) and IJN deck reels (No.2004), Gold Medal Models photoetch brass 2-bar railing set (No.200-2), GPM 1/200 Akizuki photetch brass set (GPM-FW78), GPM photoetch brass 25mm twin mounts (GPM-F2009), Answer 100mm and 25mm turned aluminum/brass barrels (ANS-L20JP-L078), and Fukuya 100mm turned brass barrels (No.200-01). These sets would enable you to:
These upgrades could help build the kit into something really special, but even without them Nichimo's big Akizuki builds into a nicely detailed, impressive model.
(TR) Review dated 2 January 2010.
GOOD. This kit was one of three JMSDF destroyer kits put out by Nichimo at about the same time as Yamato. They may all be OOP now, although still available from many sources. Although classified as a destroyer, Asagumo was in fact an ASW frigate in both size and armament. It's a curious subject to release, until you realize it was among the top JMSDF ships at the time the model was released in the early 70s. Kit has slightly over 100 pieces. Hull is separated at the waterline similar to the 1/500 Nichimo series and molded in red. Funnel caps arre molded in black and supports for display stand in gold. Interesting feature is an extended set of decals portraying the anti-skid strips along the deck. There are very few modern warship kits available in 1/200 other than Trumpeter's PLAN series, so this will be one of the few chances to get something contrasting those. Molding is a little thick by contemporary standards, but detailing is good, with no flash or sinkholes. A little overpriced at $80-90 but you may be able to find cheaper. (DH)
EXCELLENT. Substantially better than Nichimo's Atago kit, with no railings, and a much better hull. Main guns elevate individually. Like most other Nichimo 1/500 kits, the hull is in two pieces: an upper hull molded in an appropriate simulation of an IJN dark grey, and a lower hull molded in a reasonable approximation of anti-fouling red. In this case, both halves are nicely molded, with a good level of detail. Even the bilge keels look nice. While this kit makes a slight compromise to facilitate motorization, (a thick keel astern, with a shaft hole in it) it will still build up nicely into a full-hull static model. It's not perfect, (lattice pieces, such as the aircraft catapults are solid) but the flaws are minor. (DRW)
Presumably identical to Haguro. (MMS)
Editor's Note: See Myoko-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Takao Class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Presumably identical to Maya. (MMS)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review) Recently acquired this kit off EBay and was very pleasantly surprised. The parts are all very crisp and there is no flash that I could find. The scale seems correct throughout the kit, unlike the Airfix issue of the superstructure, hull and gun mounts seemingly all of different scales.
I was really pleased with the superstructure was shows the design with three separate structures on the main deck, forward with the control tower, amidships with the stack and aft with the catapult and after control stations.
The hull is very nice and the armor belt propositioned and proportioned. While I have only purchased a few of Nichimo kits all have been very crisp and very detailed. This kit is no exception. It is a very fine model of a ship not previously seen in anything other that 1/700, 1/600 and 1/400 scales. While this scales has no real companion to be displayed with, it will still be a very fine addition to any collection.
It is very rare and usually equally expensive to obtain. I have seen only 3 on EBay over a 4 year period.
This is a very rare kit.
(RDF), review dated 19 February 2008.
GOOD - bordering on EXCELLENT (based on in-box inspection) Hull typical Nichimo/Bachman/Fujimi - mates along waterline; lower hull very believable (but don't have drawings to rate accuracy), bilge keels look little heavy. Kit motorizeable, but with nice stern keel end to convert to static model. Scale shaft/strut positions only indicated by very light-relief lines. Detail on parts ranges from very good to crude). Winners include a main deck without molded railing - though no depiction of planking - fine nonskid textures on aircraft deck and bridge/funnel base (01 level), 5"AA shields, lattice-masts, individually-elevating 8"-gun barrels and ship's boats among the best from any kit in this scale. Real dogs include funnel-cap, lattice supports and aircraft crane all with only minimal relief, and diamond-star gratings far too coarse on main deck bow and stern, and AA platforms, etc.. Some parts mix good details with very poor - or none - right beside. Eight-inch turrets and (2) floatplanes are examples; turrets lack seam-apertures (instructions direct painting them in) and rangefinder ports, and describe aircraft as "'Zero' 3-seater", but wings with improbable panel lines, chord too wide, wingtips cambered to be a Zero. They are pretty nice little planes, though - maybe wings accurate for "Jake" floatplanes. All in all, a very nice kit; will look nice out of the box and could be turned into real gem with little photo-etching, scratchbuilding in just a few key places. (MMS)
Editor's Note: See Myoko-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
FAIR. Nichimo's "30cm series" ships issued in the 1970s were a game attempt to create small scale motorized ships that were at the same time realistic scale models. The results were mixed but for the most part not too bad. The Haruna is one of the better ones in the series. With the exception of the propulsive gear and an on/off switch which sticks out of the deck amidships, there aren't too many concessions to motorization. The hull is broken down along the waterline with the red lower hull molded in extra thick plastic for stability. Hull and superstructure shapes are accurate, parts breakdown similar to 1/700 scale Waterline Series ships but with a few fewer parts. Weapons are about average, just a tad below Hasegawa or Fujimi 1/700 kits in quality. One irritation is the 25mm triple mounts, which are cast directly into the decks. Also, masts are slightly thick and the complex searchlight platform support lattices are represented as solid parts with deep relief. Detail generally is simplified, and there are no ship's boats or aircraft included. On the plus side, these kits are easy to assemble and have remained very affordable, so they are great for younger modelers. And at 1/740 scale the Haruna is close enough to 1/700 to use Waterline Series kit parts to jazz it up, if you are so inclined.
(TR) Review dated 1 April 2007.
GOOD. Nichimo's Hatsuzuki ("New Moon in Autumn") is a variant of the 1942 Akizuki (kit 2011) with additional parts to depict sister Hatsuzuki as she appeared later in the war. General comments are the same as for the Akizuki. In addition, the Hatsuzuki kit includes ship-specific parts and upgraded antiaircraft guns and sensors to depict the ship as in 1943-44:
These parts make it possible to portray the ship as she appeared at any time from her commissioning in December 1942 through her final refit just before her loss in October 1944. Unfortunately, not all these new fittings are the same quality as the original Akizuki kit parts. The foremast and platforms are good, but the new 25mm triples, 25mm singles, and radars are disappointing. While not unusable, these parts would be best replaced:
Also, there is a small error in the bridge structure. Although very similar, the Hatsuzuki's bridge was a little different from Akizuki, having an extended portion aft immediately beneath the signal flag platform. The rigging diagram on page 14 of Nichimo’s Hatsuzuki instruction sheet actually shows this, but the kit provides only the original Akizuki parts. Fortunately, scratchbuilding the simple structure is not too difficult. Another source of confusion is that the instructions show the locations of only seven of the 25mm singles, but sixteen are provided in the kit... perhaps they depict the ship's appearance only after her first refit in 1943? There are also five 13mm machine guns included in the kit which do not appear on the instruction sheet drawings at all, although the Japanese language text appears to refer to them. In any case, other surviving plans of the ship show that Hatsuzuki carried a total of fourteen 25mm singles by the time of her loss, so what is provided in the kit is sufficient. The plans also show that Hatsuzuki had a slightly different depth charge arrangement than the 1942 Akizuki upon which the kit is based, having an additional two short DC tracks with small extensions over the stern.
Still, these minor discrepancies (undoubtedly evident only to Japanese Navy destroyer freaks anyway) don't detract much from what is basically a very nice model. The fact is that while Nichimo's kit can certainly be improved, it can also be built into an impressive, reasonably accurate late war Hatsuzuki right out of the box.
(TR) Review dated 2 January 2010.
EXCELLENT - bordering on GOOD (based on in-box inspection). Like other Nichimo IJN carriers, kit does not have typical two-part hull, but simple, full hull - including finest, sharpest bilge keels I have ever seen. Though lacking drawings to gauge accuracy, hull looks entirely believable. Kit fully motorizeable, having also keel finial for conversion to static model. Hull detail somewhat spartan, however not lacking for hundreds of recessed portholes, and apparently all major vent pipes, bulges, etc.. Main deck diamond-star texturing at bow and stern, gallery platforms and in flight deck margin, etc. somewhat finer than on Nichimo Akagi, though still way overscale. Kit somewhat less detailed overall than Nichimo Akagi; on most parts ranging from good to fair. Many items - like swing-arm radio masts - can benefit greatly from replacement/enhancement with PE. However flight deck top notch - like Akagi's; beautifully textured depicting both planking and non-skid steel. Latter includes three elevators, complete with plunging (if featureless) wells; elevators can be depicted in transit anywhere from fully raised to lowered. Flight deck underside depicts girders fore and aft; former lacking sufficient relief, latter looking about right. However additional molded bracing astern creates two sinkmark areas in overlying deck surface. These fairly noticeable in 3 of 4 instances on my (2) kits - some sacrifice of flight deck texture required to fill. Penultimate feature aircraft set, depicting Kates, Vals, Zeros - and now also - Claudes and Jeans; largest selection of WWII IJN carrier aircraft I've ever seen. And all excellent; panel lines and dimensions perfect - only fault: Zeroes' and Jeans' cowlings a bit too angular (easily fixed with light filing). Best 1/500 scale IJN aircraft set there is. Same for beautiful - and extensive - set of ship's boats. (Recommend making castings from these sets for your other 1/500 scale builds.) Overall a very good kit - as much and more so in some ways than Nichimo Akagi. Aircraft and ship's boats can serve as masters for castings to supply many other 1/500 scale builds - by itself reason enough to get one. Ship will build up very nicely right out of box, improve greatly with addition of PE. Or, bash one into a Soryu (what I [also] plan to do). Nice companion(s) for your Nichimo 1/500 Akagi. (MMS)
EXCELLENT. (DRW)
FAIR - bordering on GOOD (based on in-box inspection) Don't know what was in Mr. Wells' example that was absent from mine, but this best rating I can rationalize here; clearly a notch above Nichimo Mutsu, but still well below Haguro, for example. Hull typical two-piece, joining at waterline; convertible to static display but lower hull without guides for shaft/strut insertions. Plausible bilge keels and torpedo bulge but definition of latter somewhat lacking. Same for upper hull; lacking any detail whatsoever - even (slightest) hint of portholes. Main deck similar to Nichimo Mutsu; deck planking depicted too coarse (~3 scale feet wide), defined by raised lines (a la Revell Missouri) instead of scribed grooves (as in gorgeous Nichimo IJN CVs). Also like Mutsu, planking carried all the way forward but now (in my 2 examples) with long - if shallow - sink-marks inboard forecastle deck edges. Improves on Mutsu by omitting any molded railings, more realistic hawse-guide holes, but other deck fittings sparse/crude with anchor chain offensively so. Cross-hatching to depict (diamond-star) nonskid catapult deck surfaces over-scale and detracts. Entirely different diamond-star texture on aircraft deck margins better, though still over-scale. Also improves on Mutsu with less challenging foredeck seams (abaft A-turret), however next ovelying (01 level?) deck/superstructure piece omits any locator devices for overlying superstructure piece - and it, in turn for the next after that - except for very, very fine raised outlines of respective footprints. Superstructure detail spartan but again containing fully-pierced (if coarse) bridge windows and - also like Mutsu - fairly good lattice-supports, needing only some sanding/thinning down. Also in tradition of Nichimo Mutsu/Maya/Haguro, black plastic molding of mast pieces, searchlights and funnel-cap, etc. - mast being good but worst Nichimo funnel-cap of all; what depiction there is of grating only in very light relief. Ship's boats fair, but (in my examples) with ominent ejector-marks in bottoms - right where textured detail is. Fourteen-inch turrets well-defined but lacking almost all detail; gun barrels nicely tapered, elevate individually via "trapped-T" construction; a la Airfix kits. Open-mount 5" AA guns somewhat basic - qualitative whole step (at least) up from Mutsu - and triple-25mm mounts rudimentary but acceptable. Two "Pete" floatplanes pretty bad - at least have some indication of cockpits and accurate tails - but with floats attached to (minimalist) catapults, a la Revell Missouri or Helena. Such poor aircraft - and only two of them; for a seaplane carrier - doubly offensive. (A defense lawyer might argue Hyuga never actually outfitted with full air group) Kit's primary shortcomings are above waterline; desperately needs skillful filling of seams and sinkmarks, scale anchor chain, PE - particularly for catapults and radar, etc. – and substitution/augmentation of air group via castings from Nichimo Hiryu (convert some "Jean"s) and ("Jake"s) from Nichimo Myoko class kit. Also recommend substitution of resin castings of ship's boats from Nichimo Hiryu kit and - less urgently - open-mount 5" and triple-25mm AAs from Nichimo Akagi kit. With all that - and maybe some hull detailing, including portholes - you could turn this one into a real contender. And great companion to your Nichimo 1/500 Hiryu or Nagato-class - or (more than) worthy complement to your Lindberg 1/520 Yorktown-II (MMS)
Editor's Note: I have the advantage of being allowed to edit the List, so I can respond to some of Matt's comments.
First, I like Matt's review, and I will concede that he picked up some things that I didn't.
Overall, maybe I was hasty in giving it that rating, but it's so much better than the Nagato kit...... (DRW)
EXCELLENT (based on in-box inspection) At 21.4" long, this is true 1/200 scale hull - such a big part of any sub build - is a thing of beauty; split in typical Nichimo-fashion along the waterline, with an overall form that's absolutely convincing. Kit apparently achieves motorized operation via in-scale, working props, shafts, planes and rudder. Cosmetic detail is also quite good, with numerous depictions of deck hatches, "diamond-star" textures forward, numerous drain- and limber holes and nice plating texture on lower hull. Curiously, plating not continued above waterline and - somewhat disappointingly - deck planking depicted with raised lines, although spacing looks in scale. Also, torpedo tube outer door definition looks wrong – probably some line(s) missing (because as depicted I don't think they'd have worked properly). Throughout remainder of kit, detail similar; very good (if a bit sparse) - notably deck guns, binocular mounts, crisp and deeply-depicted bridge windows and (gorgeous little) Yokosuka E14Y1 "Glen" floatplane. Instructions also much more comprehensive - including English text and painting guides - than in many Nichimos. In my example, both instructions and box in fact have "MiniCraft/Nichimo" printed on them. This is a kit which will build up gorgeous right out of the box - even the motorized option. And it also readily lends itself to additional/super-detailing to create a really phenomenal build. A (more than) worthy counterpoint to your Revell 1/178 Lionfish. (Or even more impressive forced-perspective diorama, with Wasp, O'Brien and North Carolina taking hits in the background! (MMS)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
EXCELLENT. Kit represents the Ise after her hybrid carrier conversion. Very nicely detailed. Hull is split along the waterline, so that the kit can be built as either a waterline or a full hull model. Lower hull is molded in red. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Editor's Note: Possibly a 30 cm "box scale" kit.
OK - bordering on POOR (based on in-box inspection) Nothing here up to the standards of my Nichimo Haguro (Myoko class) kit - surprising, since both are typical "Nichimo 1/500" construction; hull mates along waterline, kit motorizeable but convertible for static display. But similarity ends there; hull not as deep, underwater bulges implausible - too narrow, low and straight - and bilge keels completely without curvature. Whole hull looks too shallow and flat, and stern lacks any guides or locators for strut/shaft insertions. Detail also down whole notch overall; now molded railings on main deck, torpedo deck etc.. Curiously, diamond-star textures on main deck bow and stern, and 01 level, finer than on Myoko-class kit - though still overscale. Other fairly good features include lattice-masts (molded in black plastic with other, apparently random parts). Also half ship's boats - looking much like boats of Myoko kit - with other half pretty lousy. Eight-inch turrets slightly more detailed than in Myoko - not saying much. Barrel-pairs now fixed to elevate together, with more crude trapping (hinge) mechanism. Bridge windows look heavy - at least there are some - but creating many seams to hide on that unique, massive superstructure. Five-inch AAs detail minimal. Two ("Pete") floatplanes downright offensive; lack all detail - even cockpits- and floats attached to (minimalist) catapults - almost a la Revell Missouri or Helena. So no surprise that funnel caps even worse than in Myoko; just bulging caps - now molded in black plastic - with minimal relief depicting gratings. Even instructions minimalist; no English, nor painting guide. If not waterlining this build, serious plastic surgery on the hull will be necessary. An optimist would suppose that this was Nichimo's first cruiser, and then they came out with the (much better) Myoko-class kit; a pessimist would say they started with the Myoko and then tried to save by cutting corners. Although lacking a drawing of the true hull, a test-fit of the Myoko hull-bottom central section - deeper and with far more believable torpedo bulges - looks like it would mate pretty well. A couple simple seams at bow and stern - using the Maya hull-bottom at the ends - might just give you a nice-looking, full-hull with this kit. Otherwise, you definitely want to waterline this one. After that, a lot of removing molded-on railings and replacement with PE - along with catapults, lattice supports, etc. - and filling of superstructure seams and this kit could be turned into a real winner. And the perfect adversary for your Revell 1/480 Helena. (MMS)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
See Also:
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
GOOD (based on in-box inspection). Identical to 1/550 Yamato (U5502), except for a few additional conversion parts: six platform inserts to convert Yamato's 01-level shielded 5" AAs to the triple-25mm AA mounts of Musashi, at the time of her loss in Leyte Gulf. (MMS)
GOOD (based on in-box examination). Depicts final fit, as she looked when lost at Leyte Gulf. Kit is almost a direct, reduced-size clone of 1/550 Yamato (U5502), but with some interesting differences. Hull again split at waterline; motorizeable with option for static display, with inadequately-defined strut/shaft insertion guides. Shape looks right (though I had no plans to check) but bilge keels a little heavier than in 1/550 kit. However length of lower and upper hull pieces match perfectly in my example. Upper hull almost - but not quite - identical to 1/550 kit.; differing in cruder (even more) overscale "daimond-star" nonskid textures at bow, stern and now also on light AA pads/tubs, and shallower portholes, and elevator well not sunk as deep. Otherwise all features, including fully-pierced hawse-guide holes in foredeck and construction hiding seam at shearwater identical to 1/550 kit. Again, low molded-in railing needs removal; aircraft hangar, boat-hangars on boat deck and on stern hull-sides need opening up. Foremast tower assembly now with insert for lower bridge window framing, compatible with window depiction on foretop, though still lacking any locator pins, holes, grooves or guides for mounting; prominent seam created at base of conning tower. Radar antennae again too thick, and releif on crane- and catapult lattices inadequate, but now funnel cap also with grossly inadequate relief depicting grating. Masts again nicely delicate, but now ship's boats completely absent(!) Eighteen-inch turrets slightly better than in 1/550 kit; now have additional definition of front platforms and rangefinder ports. Gun barrels are also better; nicely tapered, they now elevate individually (via " trapped-T" construction), a la Airfix kits. Six-inch turrets also better defined than in 1/550 kit. Shields for 5" AAs are best available from any Nichimo kit; beautifully defined and now depicting gratings over sighting ports, plus fully pierced twin slots to admit guns - just itching to be modified for elevating guns (and also to rotate). Shielded triple-25mm AAs also a step up from 1/550 kit, with sheilds better defined, detailed and with better defined gun-insertions. Single, hand-held 25mms are again delicate, though maybe slightly overscale. Two "Pete" floatplanes very different from 1/550 kit; represent a strange mix of nice definition (better fuselage shape) and detail on wings, but absolutely none - not even cockpits - on fuselages. However they do have spinners(!) This kit will build up very nicely right out of the box, having many details noticeably better than the larger, 1/550 kit - most notably all the guns and (on balance) the aircraft. With little extra effort, the shielded 5"AAs could be made to elevate and - with a little more - to rotate as well. However, like the 1/550 kit, the primary tasks demanded by this kit include removing the molded deck railings, opening up the boat- and aircraft hangars aft and filling the seam at the base of the conning tower. Ready-made for waterlining, it would be equally suited for building with full-hull. Some added PE - particularly for the funnel grating, in addition to the radar, cranes, catapults and railings - and an award-winner could reside therein. It would make an excellent complement to your 1/600 Aurora Enterprise, who helped to sink her at Leyte. (MMS)
OK - bordering on POOR (based on in-box inspection). Kit right on par with Nichimo Maya: none too good. Hull is typical split-along-waterline, motorizeable with option for static display - though without any indications of strut/shaft insertion points. Bottom significantly unconvincing; bilge keels vertical, drop from underneath turn of bilge instead of normal to it, torpedo bulge poorly defined containing severe mold-line. Top half almost as bad; molded railings forward (though - mercifully - not astern), deck fittings minimal or absent, chains and hawse-guide holes minimalist, unconvincing - worst of all, portholes indicated only by very light relief (instead of usual, deep recesses). Deck planking also poor, depicted by raised lines (instead of scribed grooves) and ruled far too coarse; planks look ~3 scale feet wide. Planking carried all the way forward, astern and continued on overlying (deck/superstructure) piece; no depiction of non-skid surfaces (typically diamond-star) - but this probably a blessing. Overlying (01 level?) deck piece also with molded-on railing (a la Revell kits) and joins at large, challenging seam behind A-turret. Next overlying superstructure piece - conning tower base - completely without locator pins, holes, grooves or guides of any sort! Construction bordering on toy-like, though subsequent superstructure levels look better with (coarse but at least) fully pierced bridge windows. Lattice-supports also considerably better - somewhat heavy but could be sanded and thinned out. Like Nichimo Maya, mast and funnel-cap molded black plastic and, also like Maya, mast is good but funnel-cap awful, depicting grating by only very light relief; totally inadequate. Ship's boats OK - except for severe sink marks in half (my examples) of them. Sixteen-inch turrets fairly well-defined but lacking practically any detail; gun barrels nicely tapered and do elevate individually. AA armament - 5" and 25mm mounts - a full step lower in quality - even toy-like. Single "Pete" floatplane possibly most offensive Nichimo aircraft ever molded; fuselage simply a chopped carrot with tail (!) - and float attached to (minimalist) catapult - again a la Revell Missouri or Helena. This kit is a good candidate for waterlining - you'll save half the work that way - otherwise lower hull will require serious plastic surgery. Although I can't vouch for its accuracy, a test-fit of the Nichimo Ise class hull-bottom central section - sporting far more plausible torpedo bulge and bilge keel - comes pretty close to a fit with this kit. A couple simple seams at bow and stern - reverting to the Mutsu hull-bottom there - might just give you a nice-looking, full-hull with this kit. If at all possible, substitute resin castings from your Nichimo Akagi and Hiryu AA weapons - open-mount twin-5", triple- and twin-25mm mounts - as well as ship's boats and biplane (you can convert a "Jean" from the Hiryu kit). Then a lot of removing molded-on railings and replacement with PE - including the catapult and radar – and filling of deck/superstructure seams to make this kit (finally) into an eye-catcher. A perfect companion to your Nichimo 1/500 Ise-class. (MMS)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Built example looks identical to Haguro. (MMS)
Editor's Note: Released as:
Built example looks identical to Haguro. (MMS)
Editor's Note: See Myoko-class. (DRW)
OK. Be prepared to fix that hull bulge and those bilge keels. The hull bulge doesn't extend far enough forward, and the bilge keels point straight down! Molded-into-the-deck railings don't help. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Also see Matt Stein's review of Nichimo's Mutsu kit, which is presumably from the same mold.
Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Released as:
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
POOR. Motorized. Hypothetical version of BB New Jersey based on a plan to replace the after turret and helo deck with a ski-jump flight deck for Harriers and a VLS. The model is clearly a basic New Jersey model with some parts replacedwith the flight deck, Harriers and a crane for the VLS. Molded in color, no painting instructions, or decals other than an American flag. Very little flash and no noticiable sink holes or injection pin marks, but some strange lines on the lower hull which can easily be sanded away.
Some parts are excellent, and some ridiculous. 2 piece hull separated at the waterline. The lower hull is completely inaccurate; the forefoot is like a witch's chin, and the after section is meant for a single motorized prop and rudder, and so is way off. The upper hull is too wide at the prow, which is very difficult to correct, but vaguely correct elsewhere. The deck needs to be sanded smooth and the deck furniture redone. The stacks need correcting. The main and secondary turrets are OK, just needing some detailing and sharpening up of the shape. Nichimo decided to replace 4 of the 6 5" turrets with Phalanx. The Phalanxes are OK, given the tiny scale.
The flight deck is workable, though there are gaps in the base that let you see that there's no hangar or anything else underneath. (I filled in the gaps with a back wall and put a plane in the hangar.) The VLS is just lines, but the Harriers are excellent for this scale, just needing the landing gear corrected. There are 4 ship boats, each the size of a corvette. In this weird scale you'll have to make your own, or use some of the smallest from a 1/700 or 1/800 ship, then fill in the pits on the midships deck where they sit.
If you want a toy for your kid, or a practice model, it's OK. Otherwise, buy an Iowa class in a more regular scale and convert it yourself.
Amusingly, one of the other models listed on the side of the box is the HIJMS New Jersey.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
Editor's Note: Joe showed me this kit. I think I've figured out the lower hull: It's the lower hull from a Yamato. Obviously, this is totally wrong for the New Jersey. This also explains the rather excessive beam on this kit. This is one of Nichimo's "30 cm" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit. Presumably a relative of the 30 cm Yamato kit.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)(DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT (based on in-box inspection) This kit shares - with all Nichimo IJN carriers - characteristic of a single, full hull instead of typical two-part hull. Shokaku's hull looks quite plausible - with possible exception of large, thick bilge keel, approaching 0.25" thick at base looking almost like "bilge torpedo bulges" - may or may not be accurate; may have seen them depicted in Gakken Shokaku book. Either way, hull looks remarkably like Nichimo 1/500 Zuikaku kit; either would make a more than worthy complement to your (accurized) Lindberg 1/520 Yorktown-II. (MMS)
Editor's Note: Released as:
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Editor's Note: From what Matt Stein tells me, Nichimo made two separate molds for the Takao class: one representing Atago and Takao, the other representing Maya and Chokai. The Atago/Takao mold is reviewed here. Also read Matt Stein's comments on the other mold under Maya. (DRW)
OK. Needs lots of modifications. The molded-into-the deck railing detracts. The bilge keels are wrong: they face directly downward! Only full hull Takao available. (DRW)
OK (based on in-box inspection) Kit is completely different - and hull a full notch better - than Maya kit (though still not as good as Myoko-class mold). Still follows typical "Nichimo 1/500" construction; hull mates along waterline - now with pads above waterline to (more accurately) depict torpedo bulge - and kit motorizeable, but now without conversion parts (props, shafts, etc.) for static display. Differences from Maya (within the same class) kit include aircraft deck ahead of mainmast and at 01 level, whereas Maya's was aft of mainmast, at main deck level - in both cases accurate for each vessel. But accuracy ends there; hull straight-sided amidships, along with underwater bulges, and bilge keels not located at turn of bilge but inboard underneath, pointing straight down. Whole hull - though far better than Maya kit - still looks slightly too shallow and does not taper finely enough at ends - nor at all amidships, but goes straight-sided. In fact, hull and deck outline far more closely resemble a Mogami class. Again (like Maya), stern lacks any guides or locators for strut/shaft insertions, and detail once again down a whole notch overall from Myoko kit; molded railings on main deck, torpedo deck etc. - and now completely without any diamond-star textures on main deck bow, stern, or 01 level. Fairly good features include all masts, davits and ship's boats - looking much like boats of Myoko kit. Eight-inch turrets with minimal detail; barrel-pairs now fixed to elevate together, with very crude trapping (hinge) mechanism, as on Maya kit. Bridge windows surprisingly delicate, but design creates many seams to hide on that unique, massive superstructure. Five-inch and lighter AAs lacking all detail; toylike, offensive - as are two ("Pete") floatplanes - lacking even cockpits- and floats attached to (minimalist) catapults - almost a la Revell Missouri or Helena. Likewise funnel caps identical style to Maya kit; just bulging caps molded in black plastic with minimal relief to depict gratings. Instructons also minimal; no English, nor painting guide. This hull requires much less plastic surgery than the Maya kit - primarily just replacing the bilge keels - but even then (drawings confirm) you will have a deck outline closer to a Mogami- or Tone class. So you might more profitably kitbash it into one of those classes. Another alternative (actually seen on-line) is to kitbash all the above-deck parts onto the (more accurate) hull and deck - both pieces - from the Myoko-class kit. In any case, a lot of removing molded-on railings and replacement with PE - along with catapults, lattice supports, etc. - and filling of superstructure seams and this kit could be turned into a real winner. And the perfect adversary for your Frog 1/500 Exeter. (MMS)
Editor's Notes: Released as:
See Also:
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
EXCELLENT (based on in-box inspection) At 15.1" long, this kit appears to depict a Type Ixc(40) boat, for which it measures out to a true, 1/200 scale. And as such it compares very favorably with the huge Nichimo I-19 kit; again the hull appears absolutely convincing. Kit is motorizeable or fully convertible to static display - including all (very nice) props, shafts etc.. Opposite of I-19 kit, detail now emphasized more above waterline - including beautifully-engraved deck planking, hatches and textures - while on lower hull detail generally much lighter, and raised. Particularly tantalizing are dozens of vent holes on the hull bottom - too bad they're not indented, like the beautiful limber holes, but only indicated by very light raised outlines. Torpedo tube outer doors look perfect; can be depicted open or closed. Remainder of kit parts similarly good - notably deck guns, which are quite amenable to additional (super-) detailing. This is another Nichimo sub which will build up gorgeous right out of the box - particularly the static version, although even the motorized option will look quite good. And again, it will lend itself to additional/super-detailing - and then you can drill out all those vent holes - to create a really phenomenal build. A worthy desktop companion to your Nichimo I-19. (MMS)
Editor's Note: Said to have over 600 parts. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Depicts "Mid-war" fit (as I believe she looked at Leyte Gulf); after removal of wing 6-inch turrets but before placement of all those midships triple-25mms. Hull is typical split-along-waterline, motorizeable with option for static display - though strut/shaft insertion points indicated in vanishingly light relief. Looks very plausible - nice bilge keels - though slight mismatch in length between lower and upper hull pieces. Upper hull nice, with finely-ruled (though raised-line) planking and delicate non-skid texturing, though diamond-star textures at bow and stern over-scale, repeated on overlying superstructure/decks piece. Hull depicts beautiful, deep Nichimo-type portholes, including welded-over scuttles, drain pipes and armor belt. Nice hawse-guide holes fully penetrate foredeck which mates nicely, hides seam at shearwater. There is low, molded-in railing which needs removal. Also, boat-hangars on boat deck and hull-sides at stern are walled-off; need to be drilled open, as does forward end of elevator well, otherwise nicely depicted. Foremast tower assembly with weak indications of lower bridge windows, though nice depiction on foretop, and mounts without locator pins, holes, grooves or guides, positioned on step of conning tower base - prominent seam demanding remedy. Radar antennae too thick, heavy. Crane- and catapult lattices' relief not quite adequate, unlike funnel cap with deep and convincing relief depicting grating. Masts also nicely delicate. Ship's boats OK, but not enough of them; lack cutters(?) for boat deck. Eighteen-inch turrets nicely defined though somewhat sparse on detail. Gun barrels nicely tapered, and elevate in fixed banks a la Revell Arizona. Shields for 5" AAs beautifully defined but completely lacking in detail and insertion of guns somewhat crude. Twenty-five mm AAs a step down, with shielded mounts soft in definition and open mounts with sparse detail. Single, hand-held 25mms pretty good! Three "Pete" floatplanes OK; details a tad soft and fuselages slightly pinched, but not nearly as toy-like as many others. This kit will build up nicely almost right out of the box; the biggest (and highly recommended) chores will be removing the molded deck railings, opening up the boat- and aircraft hangars aft and filling the seam at the base of the conning tower. This is the best-suited Nichimo BB to be built full-hull (though it is also ready-made for waterlining). You could also cast replacement sheileded 5" AAs from your 1/600 Yamato (U6001) - they're beautiful and appear to be exactly the same size! Likewise for sheilded triple-25mms - although these are a bit smaller in the 1/600 kit. Add in a little PE - particularly for the radar, cranes, catapults and railings - and it will make a real eye-catcher. And - although they missed each other by 3 hours at San Bernardino Strait 10/25/44 - a nice complement to your 1/535 Revell New Jersey. (MMS)
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
Presumably same as 1/600 Musashi, possibly lacking a few conversion parts. (MMS)
Editor's Notes: Read Matt's review of the Nichimo Musashi.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
Identical to Shokaku, but with painting guide for early or late Zuikaku; decals for late Zuikaku only (based on direct, in-box comparison;) (MMS)
Editor's Note: 30 cm "box scale" kit.
FAIR. Same kit as the Shokaku (kit #14). Box art notwithstanding, the model portrays Zuikaku ("Happy Crane") in her early war appearance without the mattress radars on the island and flight deck. The model is well molded and easy to assemble, accurate in outline with good surface detailing. The raised detail on the flight deck is especially nice, better than comparable surfaces on the larger Aoshima and Fujimi 1/700 scale carrier models. Plus, it is just cool to have a full hull Zuikaku in small scale! Unfortunately, there are a number of unappealing aspects to this kit. For one, the massive on/off switch for the motor protrudes from the flight deck right through that nice plank detail; even if you don't motorize it, the hole is in a prominent spot which would be difficult to repair. Another problem is the 25mm triple mounts, which are cast directly into the gallery decks. Even if you wanted to take on scraping all these off and replacing them, finding 1/858 scale replacements would be a challenge! The boat deck aft is provided as a separate part, but there are no ship's boats for it. The Vals, Kates, and Zeroes of the airgroup are petite with delicate raised detail. Unfortunately, there are not enough of them. Also, they're all slightly off in shape; for some reason, the wings having oddly pointed tips. And of course there is the motorization gear below the waterline, which means scratchbuilding propellers, shafts, and rudder if you want an accurate scale model. Then again, if you just want to send your little Zuikaku slicing through the local pond, this is an inexpensive, attractive model. And with that sleek carrier hull, it is very fast!
(TR), Review dated 1 April 2007.
Their address:
NIKO model
ul. Gombrowicza 39/32
59-220 Legnica
POLAND
48 (76)866-13-54
E-mail: niko@nikomodel.pl
Their website: http://www.nikomodel.pl
(DRW)
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1939.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes photo etch and decals. Once again Niko has created an extraordinary kit in resin. Every single piece of the creamy yellow resin included in this kit is finely crafted with fantastic detail and crisply molded with minimal cleanup required. The hull and lower superstructure is simply superb. The molded in gun shields are incredibly thin and the amount of detail molded into the hull and deck is stunning. The wood decking not only is finely scribed but includes butt ends to the planks in the proper pattern. I find it almost unbelievable to see fidelity of detail on the tiny pieces of equipment included. The only drawback is the use of resin for the lower masts. Brass or steel wire or tubing would be far better, especially if you plan to rig the model. Normally I don’t care for main battery gun barrels or even secondary batteries molded in resin but these are very well done and don’t need to be replaced with brass barrels.
The photo etch set is very finely crafted and 3d etched. It is extensive and supplies every detail that you could want for this ship. Railings are supplied as well as ship specific parts like cranes, catapults, ladders, etc. The brass is very delicate and will require great care in handling.
Instructions: Large, multi page directions in English and Polish. The instructions consist of a page laying out all the parts and identifying them with numbers tied to the assembly photos and a series of photos of the actual model in a logical sequence showing parts placement for all, including the photo etched parts. Each sequence shows the finished sub assembly to eliminate confusion. Painting instructions are noted in USN color names with lines drawn to a photo of the completed model.
Packaging: Always a concern with resin kits as poor packaging can lead to broken and/or lost parts, there are no worries here. The kit comes in a sturdy white cardboard box. The hull is wrapped in bubble wrap and small parts bagged. All are then taped to the inside of the box.
I cannot recommend this kit highly enough. It is simply fabulous. While not for the beginner anyone with one or two resin kits under their belt should have no trouble with this.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945. For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1938.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1936.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1967.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1945.
EXCELLENT.
Note: Niko is to be highly commended for modeling what has to be an obscure subject matter. USS Florida, although an interesting and attractive vessel never saw much action, serving with the Royal Navy in 1917-18, and was ordered scrapped in 1932 in accordance with the Naval Treaties of the time. Her sister ship, USS Utah, demoted from battleship to gunnery training ship, was destroyed at Pearl Harbor.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a complete set of photo etch brass parts for detailing including the railings. The light gray and off white colored resin parts are highly detailed and beautifully cast with little to no flash. The one piece hull is crammed with detail and flawlessly executed. The superstructure parts are easily removed from their pour plugs. The castings on even the smallest parts are precise and uniform. You will not be breaking parts trying to remove them from the plugs or trying to clean them up. While the kit does not include brass main or secondary battery barrels which would have been preferable they are not needed as the resin ones supplied are adequate. Although difficult to find in the US this kit is among the best in quality available today and well worth the price.
Directions:: the superb directions consist of photos of the actual model in the various stages of construction supplemented where necessary with additional line drawings. The directions are extremely well done and clear. There are no instructions for the rigging of the ship but the photos of the completed ship can be used as a guide to do so.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box well decorated with a photo of the completed model along with other company products. The text is in both Polish and English. The hull is secured in bubble wrap while the other smaller parts are separated into small plastic bags. I found no damaged parts in my securely packed kit.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1929.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1968.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1938.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Ex-Italian CL Scipio Africano. Portays the ship in 1954.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1948.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in August 1942.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with photo etch and turned brass rods for the masts. This is another example of a beautifully rendered resin ship model by Niko. It is not quite up to the standards set by the Virginia and Connecticut class kits also put out by them but it is still a very, very good model. Hull and lower superstructure are cast in light gray as a single piece with minimal flash around the waterline. Planking is represented by fine scribed lines that do not have butt ends like the other kits noted above. All the other resin pieces are cast in creamy white resin. All of the parts are well detailed, crisp and cleanly cast with little to no flash or mold imperfections. Another noteworthy facet of this kit is the inclusion of turned brass rod for the masts. This is far superior to the reliance on the somewhat brittle resin pieces for masts. Small weapons are exquisitely cast and really delicate I prefer brass for the main battery gun barrels over the resin ones provided. The kit barrels aren’t horrible by any means, I just have a preference for brass turned barrels.
The photo etch set is fairly complete. It includes general parts like railings, ladders, inclined stairs, platform braces, anchor chain, davits, platforms and the ship’s bow crest. It is 3d etched like some of their other kits. The brass seems a bit thicker than some of their other kits as well and may not be so hard to handle.
Instructions: Large, multi page directions in English and Polish. The instructions consist of a page laying out all the parts and identifying them with numbers tied to the assembly photos and a series of photos of the actual model in a logical sequence showing parts placement for all, including the photo etched parts. Each sequence shows the finished sub assembly to eliminate confusion. Painting instructions are noted in generic color names with lines drawn to a photo of the completed model. The box top shows a color photo of the completed model. There is an attempt at illustrating the rigging of this ship via a starboard side line drawing. This will give you a rough idea of the complex rigging scheme for a vessel of this ear but that is about all.
Packaging: Always a concern with resin kits as poor packaging can lead to broken and/or lost parts, there are no worries here. The kit comes in a sturdy white cardboard box. The hull is wrapped in bubble wrap and small parts bagged. All are then taped to the inside of the box.
Another kit that I highly recommend that you purchase. A little experience is required because of the nature of resin and the mass of photo etched parts.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with a fret of photo etch detail parts. The photo etch is extensive and includes a full set of railings as well as a myriad of small detail parts. Several of these parts are surface etched for a 3-D effect where necessary. Resin parts are cast in light gray for the hull and a creamy yellow white for the rest of the parts. There were no bubbles, dropouts, warped or miscast parts of any kind in my kit. The various resin parts are exquisitely cast with terrific detail and very little flash. One weakness noted in most resin kits is the treatment of the ship's boats. That certainly is not the case in this kit. The ship's boats are well cast and integrate photo etched parts to help achieve the correct scale effect. All resin parts are easy to remove from their casting plugs and sprues with either a razor saw or careful blade work with your Xacto blade. The one piece hull is cast with most of the lower superstructure. The casting on this hull is unbelievably detailed with incredibly fine lines for the deck planking and an astonishing amount of finely cast integrated detail. Some of it is so fine that extreme care must be taken with the unwrapping of the hull from its bubble wrap cocoon. I was a bit clumsy and broke off a couple of the cast in vents. I just couldn't believe that Niko was able to cast all of this stuff into the hull. The detail is so fine that very careful painting will have to be done so as not to obscure any of the incredible cast in detail.
You just can't buy a better kit than this model from Niko.
Directions:: Excellent step by step photo based directions that are simply outstanding as far as they go. While assembly and painting are well covered there are no drawings or instructions for rigging this vessel. While few modelers would be willing to accept the challenge of rigging such a tiny vessel those that are so inclined will have to seek guidance to do so elsewhere. This is the only flaw in an otherwise superb kit and its excellent directions.
Packaging: excellent sturdy cardboard box illustrated with a photo of the completed model and other products of Niko. The hull is bubble wrapped and taped to the inside of the box securely. All other parts are separated into small plastic bags with one layer of parts in each to avoid damage from friction or rattling in the box.
(WJS), review dated 13 May 2008.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1898.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1955.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1954.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1944.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: for those of you looking for a colorful departure from the drab war time grays this kit is for you. This ship is painted in a striking scheme guaranteed to stand out in your collection.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit that includes photo etch and decals. Once again Niko has created an extraordinary kit in resin. Every single piece of the creamy yellow resin included in this kit is finely crafted with fantastic detail and crisply molded with minimal cleanup required. The hull and lower superstructure is simply superb. The molded in ventilators and the amount of detail molded into the hull and deck are stunning. The wood decking not only is finely scribed but includes butt ends to the planks in the proper pattern. I find it almost unbelievable to see fidelity of detail on the tiny pieces of equipment included. While the small guns are simply wonderful, I’m not in love with the main battery barrels. They seem to be molded pretty well but they would be better in brass.
The photo etch set is fairly complete. It includes general parts like railings, ladders, inclined stairs, platform braces, anchor chain, davits, platforms and the ship’s bow crest. It is 3d etched like some of their other kits. The brass seems a bit thicker than some of their other kits as well and may not be so hard to handle.
Instructions: Large, multi page directions in English and Polish. The instructions consist of a page laying out all the parts and identifying them with numbers tied to the assembly photos and a series of photos of the actual model in a logical sequence showing parts placement for all, including the photo etched parts. Each sequence shows the finished sub assembly to eliminate confusion. Painting instructions are noted in generic color names with lines drawn to a photo of the completed model. The box top shows a color photo of the completed model
Packaging: Always a concern with resin kits as poor packaging can lead to broken and/or lost parts, there are no worries here. The kit comes in a sturdy white cardboard box. The hull is wrapped in bubble wrap and small parts bagged. All are then taped to the inside of the box.
I cannot recommend this kit highly enough. It is simply fabulous. While not for the beginner anyone with one or two resin kits under their belt should have no trouble with this.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1909.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1953.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1939.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1946.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942-1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1944.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This beautifully executed resin kit represents Rhode Island after her rebuild and as modified again for service in World War I. Niko’s practice has been to produce members of a class of warships like this one in their as built and in their rebuilt configurations using different class members. It is an approach that is hard not to like. This rendition of a Virginia class ship in combat guise for the Great War complements nicely the earlier release by Niko of the Virginia (Niko Model #7054), the class leader, in her as built fit with military masts and the white and khaki paint scheme. My only quibble with this kit of Rhode Island is the vague painting instructions for wartime gray. The USN used a rather dark gray, not the light gray depicted in the box art.
This is a great model and I highly recommend it. If you wish a review of the kit parts, directions and packaging please see my review of Niko Models #7052 Louisiana BB-19. The parts are different but the comments on quality and fidelity to detail are the same.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1918.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1957.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portays the sub in 1956.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1938.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1943.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1970.
Note: Niko has been taking on unusual subject matter in their line of ship models and looks to be expanding their line of offerings considerably. It is to be hoped that they will continue to do so if they can keep up this quality level.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a complete set of photo etch brass parts for detailing including the railings. The light gray or off white colored resin parts are highly detailed and beautifully cast with little to no flash. The tiny one piece hull is crammed with detail and flawlessly executed. The superstructure parts are easily removed from their pour plugs. The castings on even the smallest parts are precise and uniform. You will not be breaking parts trying to remove them from the plugs or trying to clean them up. While the kit does not include brass main or secondary battery barrels they are not needed as the resin ones supplied are excellent. The photo etch parts are so complete that they include the ship's bow crest! Although difficult to find in the US this kit is among the best in quality available today and well worth the price.
Directions:: the superb directions consist of photos of the actual model in the various stages of construction supplemented where necessary with additional line drawings. The directions are extremely well done and clear including alternate painting instructions that appear to be accurate, which is not the usual case from most manufacturers.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box well decorated with a photo of the completed model along with other company products. The text is in both Polish and English. The hull is secured in bubble wrap while the other smaller parts are separated into small plastic bags. I found no damaged parts in my securely packed kit.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit shares many of the same parts with the Niko Models #7052 Louisiana BB-19, however, it also reflects the rebuilding of this ship with cage masts and alterations to the superstructure to accommodate them. This is in NO way a rebox and rename job. Please see my review of the Louisiana as that accurately reflects the quality of the parts, instructions and packaging you will find in this kit as well.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1909.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This beautifully executed resin kit represents Virginia in as built configuration. Niko’s practice has been to produce members of a class of warships like this one in their as built and in their rebuilt configurations using different class members. It is an approach that is hard not to like. If you are looking for a colorful addition to your fleet this pre-war color scheme is just right, this bizarre looking ship will just leap out from the drab war time grays. For the rebuilt configuration with cage masts and war time grays you would best be served by purchasing Niko Models #7056, Rhode Island BB-17.
This is a great model and I highly recommend it. If you wish a review of the kit parts, directions and packaging please see my review of Niko Models #7052 Louisiana BB-19. The parts are different but the comments on quality and fidelity to detail are the same.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1906
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1944.
EXCELLENT. (in box review) I received my copy of Niko Model's 1/700 scale multi-media kit of their ORP Burza/Wicher wz.36 in yesterday's mail and I decided to sit down and right an Out-Of-the-Box (OOB) review. To research more details on these two vessels, one need only do a Google search for either of them or go directly to the unofficial Polish Navy website at: http://crolick.website.pl/pmw/flota_morska/ship_04.html, for the Burza, and for the Wicher. It seems that the kit is of the pre-war, and as delivered fit, with its full and very heaavy mainmast array. Just before the war the mainmast was removed for a more lighter polemast. Plans for this updated arrangement of antiaircraft weapons and funnel arrangement can be seen at: http://crolick.website.pl/pmw/flota_morska/i/ship_04_02.jpg . This was to bring them into looking much like the ORP Grom class destroyers.
The Kit The kit; number 7004, comes in a very well constructed cardboard box and was sent to me in an insulated mailing package to ensure against any lurking mail-gremlins. Upon opening the box, the major hull and superstructure molding is wrapped in bubble-wrap, as is the smaller detail pieces. The latter is in its own zip-lock package as is the kit's decal sheet, masttops and yards, and photo-etched mine-rails.
The Pieces One is struck with the amount of detail that is included in the molding of the hull and superstructure. Besides all manner of hatches, watertight doors, mine-rail bases, bollards, and intakes, the hull is almost a model in and of itself, challenging what I have seen on some of the white-metal cast ships.
The remaining pieces of the kit is an interesting approach for a ship model. The old Renwal 1/500 scale ship models used to have the roof or deck section separate from the superstruture in order to have a very crisp line between the two. Niko has done a similar approach on this model. In order to have the screens and other details done in a very fine and scale thickness manner, each deck and superstructure roof is molded separately in order to have its detail as finely finished as possible. This approach should ease painting and assembly considerably.
The torpedo tubes, funnels, searchlights, directors, anchors, boats, davits and other smaller details are all done in very fine and separate little resin moldings. Because of their size, one should take special care in painting the items first before removing from their molded carriers. Loss of any of these could easily take place otherwise.
There are various sized photo-etched pieces that appear to be mine-rails. Not speaking Polish, I cannot comment on their exact location except to follow the tiny molded-on rails that are on the main hull-superstructure molding.
The instructions follow a simple but adequate exploded view for all of the main and smaller pieces. The flip-side of the small single piece instruction page gives a very adequate "General Plan" view; showing both side and plan view, that shows the exact pattern for the aerial pattern on the mainmast and yards, and this would in itself be very challenging to do in 1/700 scale. The upper or deck view does show the placement of the above mentioned mine-rail location.
Conclusion I admit to already being biased toward these kits as I have studied the photographs on the company's website at: www.nikomodel.pl . But to perfectly honest, these kits could easy hook a person in ordering all of this company's products. The suggested retail price of these kits at around $15.00 plus postage does make for fairly cheap and inexpensive modeling. With the addition of some scale photoetched railings, a real show-stopper could be made quite easily.
How will I finish off my own kit? Why a French torpilleurs d'escadre of the Bourrasque class, of course. I will need at least three or four to model the ones that were either damaged, sunk or thus marred in the Dunkirk evacuations. Happy modeling, and thanks to Niko Models for this very fine model. (HES) Review dated January 2004.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1936.
Editor's Note: Portays the ship in 1941.
Their website: http://www.nntmodell.com (JP)
| A80 | Brandenburg | Erzherzog Ferdinand | Göben/Breslau | H-Class |
| Hamburg/Brandenburg | Iowa class | Komaran/Sydney | Mackensen | Moltke/Goeben |
| Radetzky | Renown | Stuttgart |
Portrays the ship in 1995. Announced, release date unknown.
GOOD.(based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with a photo-etch fret of small detail parts and a sheet of some kind of colored label paper that for the life of me I can't figure out what it is for. PE fret consists of anchors, anchor chains, braces, cranes, ladders and pulley assemblies. Hull is a one piece casting incorporating the lower superstructure. It is beautifully cast with gorgeous detail and appears to be flawless. All other parts are cast on a mixture of wafers and pour stubs. They are well detailed but like similar kits by HP they will be hard to remove without damage. Resin gun barrels are cast separately from the turrets and would best be replaced with after market metal ones. You will also need brass rod to fabricate the masts, yards and torpedo net booms. Also provided in the kit parts is material to simulate the rolled up torpedo nets.
Directions:: multipage guide which includes a brief history, basic statistics (in English and German), line drawings of side and overhead views and exploded view assembly diagrams that are very complete, except for rigging.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a reproduction of a painting of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and taped to the bottom of the box, foam peanuts are then used to fill in the rest of the space in the box. Parts are very secure from transit damage.
Note: This kit can be used to build either SMS Erzherzog Ferdinand or SMS Zrinyi of the K.u.K.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
Portrays the ship in 1985. Announced, release date unknown.
EXCELLENT. I have just received a review copy of the NNT Modell USS Iowa in its modern configuration. I haven't had the chance to put it together, but I do have a few bservations based on what I see - what we call, in my business, the 50,000 foot view.
First, the PE is superb looking - very delicate, very much scale-looking. It includes the anchor, chain, helicopter rotor, antennae for the foredeck, antennae for the mast and much more. It's impressive-looking. But there is room for after-market PE to take up the slack in railings, ladders, etc. The instructions are basically a schematic blow-up of the assembly (with color codes on the reverse side). It will take some study, but the assembly looks so straightforward as to represent no problem.
The turret guns will take (IMO) a jig to get right - each gun barrel is separate, in resin. That's a challenge, but not a major or restrictive one. But the guns alone make this kit something that more advanced modelers will do better at (novices to resin might want to pull the turrets off of one of the 1/700 Iowa-class kits and save themselves a lot of gray hairs).
The resin molding looks and feels smooth, with no apparent pin-holes (primer might reveal a few, but I doubt it - this looks very good, very clean). I haven't micrometered it out against Freidman's specs, but the ship looks very much in scale to me. (NB)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Historical Note: Although the kit instructions label the fit of this kit 1917 the buyer should know that this vessel never went to sea with the German Navy. Begun in 1915 and launched in 1917 she was never completed and in the end was scrapped before ever fitting out.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit that includes plastic rod, material for torpedo nets and a fret of photo etch detail parts along with some sticky vinyl material that looks like painting masks but whose function is a mystery as it is not called out in the directions. All resin parts are cast in a light tan color. The one piece hull incorporates the lower superstructure and is cleanly cast with lots of fine detail. All other resin parts are cast on a mixture of wafers and pour stubs. The wafers are so thin that many of the parts have come free of them simply by rattling around in the box during shipping. The parts are well detailed and flash free. However, several have been broken as a result of the haphazard method of bagging them. PE consists of ladders, anchors, anchor chain, braces, crane apparatus, davits, oars and support frames. There are no railings included. You will have to fabricate masts and yards from metal rod or tubing in accordance with the templates provided in the assembly diagram (which, btw, suggest that you use stretched sprue, a really bad idea). The included plastic rod is intended for part of the secondary battery gun barrels. Separately cast main battery gun barrels were part of the casualty list of broken parts in my sample. There are locator points on the hull for the torpedo net booms but I will probably sand mine off as by this late in the war they would have been discarded from this class of ship. This is a very nice kit that will build into a large and impressive example of the height of German battlecruiser design.
Directions:: consist of a very brief history (understandably), technical data, (in English), line drawings of the interior and exterior of the ship from overhead and side views, painting instructions (using Humbrol paints) and a very large and complete exploded view assembly diagram. Very little difficulty should be encountered in the assembly of this kit using this diagram. Rigging is, of course, speculative but should follow the general pattern of other large HSF units like Derfflinger.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a color rendering of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and the box filled with foam peanuts. Unfortunately, little care was taken in deciding what parts should go in any particular bag so there has been quite a bit of breakage in my sample.
(WJS), review dated 14 February 2006.
EXCELLENT.
Note: this kit can be built either as Goeben or Moltke as the minor differences in parts are supplied in the kit. Be advised that there is more than one version of this kit floating around (pardon the pun). The kit that I purchased did not have turned main battery barrels or railings, other versions of the kit do, check before buying.
Note 2: This kit could also be used to model Goeben as she served in the Turkish Navy for decades! In Turkish service the ship was known as Yavuz Sultan Selim.
Kit Parts: This is predominantly a resin kit with supplementary photo etch, brass rod and material to make the rolled up torpedo netting. I chose not to build mine with the nets so I can’t say how well that would have come out. The molding is highly detailed, flash and bubble free. The one piece hull casting is really superb, it includes most of the superstructure so there really isn't much assembly going on here. WW1 era ships were fairly simple in this regard being basically floating gun platforms with few frills or a care for aircraft defense. There is just something so purposeful and sinister to the look of German Naval architecture of this era. Assembly is straight forward with no hitches. The PE included is pretty delicate so don't rush it or you will end up with little twisted balls of needle sharp PE sticking out of your eyes and fingers. More time will be spent correctly painting this ship than putting it together.
Directions: and Packaging are pretty much typical of other NNT products. With the simple construction of this type of ship you don't really need too much instruction on how it should be built. (WJS), review dated 4 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This NNT kit is actually produced by Niko Model of Poland and sold under the NNT label.
Kit Parts: this model, a resin kit with photo etched brass, is exquisitely rendered! The very long one piece hull and lower superstructure poured in a gray/green resin is crisp, sharp and lovely! Breakwaters, fittings, deck levels and other details are truly amazing in their fineness. The pattern in the steel decks (no wood was used in the original build of Renown) is nicely done if a bit over scale (inevitable in this case). There is some cleanup to be done along the waterline and in some places along the main deck edges. Other resin parts are cleanly and crisply molded in a creamy white resin. Decks are on thin wafers and smaller parts are on pour stubs. These resin parts are simply outstanding in detail and fineness. There is very little flash but care will have to be taken to remove the parts from the stubs without damage. Main battery guns as are the others are all done in resin. The small stuff is excellent. The main battery barrels are pretty good for resin but I prefer brass for a more in scale look.
Brass rod is included for the manufacture of the masts. The photo etch set is fairly comprehensive. It includes not only the ships railings but an excellent assortment of davits, ladders, stairs, platform supports, ship’s boats details and stack grills. The brass is very fine and will require a great deal of care in handling.
Directions: The few words on them are in English. The instructions consist of a page laying out all the parts and identifying them with numbers tied to the assembly photos and a series of photos of the actual model in a logical sequence showing parts placement for all, including the photo etched parts. Each sequence shows the finished sub assembly to eliminate confusion. Painting instructions are called out in Humbrol Enamels. All in all very nicely done.
Packaging: Always a concern with resin kits as poor packaging can lead to broken and/or lost parts, there are no worries here. The kit comes in a sturdy white cardboard box. The hull is wrapped in bubble wrap and small parts bagged. All are then taped to the inside of the box.
I cannot recommend this kit highly enough. It is simply fabulous. While not for the beginner anyone with one or two resin kits under their belt should have no trouble with this.
(WJS), review dated 8 September 2011.
Editor's Note:
For comparison, check out these kits:
| Arktika | Ashanti | Aurora | Exeter | Hero |
| Potemkin | Royal Sovereign | Sub Set | Tiger | Torquay |
| Type L | Type D | Type S | Undine |
This is a nuclear-powered Soviet icebreaker, issued under the Maquette and Ogoncjek names, and sold in the US by Russ-Sell, a Russian product import company. It has 244 parts, and is one of the few icebreaker models ever released. The instructions are a bit confusing. I had to scan mine and white out parts as they were added, as there is only one drawing, showing all parts going together at once. The instructions are vague at times as to what goes where in relation to other pieces, so I used Internet photos to clarify some placement.
Historical Note: The protoype was the first surface ship to reach the North Pole. (RLAW)
Old FROG Tribal mold.
Old Heller Aurora mold.
Old FROG Exeter mold.
GOOD. Depicts post 1939 fit, after Battle of River Plate repairs - increased AA. With addition of detail makes an excellent model (GH)
FAIR/POOR. I am only giving it this good of marks because of the nice detail on the kit. I give it a very poor because of the enormous amount of flash. My kit had only a few places where there was not flash. I honestly could not believe it. Worse yet was the flash was thick. It could not be simply snapped off. It required cutting which in turn lead to damage of some of the finer parts. I finally gave up on removing the flash and put the kit back in the box. Possibly same as the Frog kit.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Old FROG Hero mold.
Old Heller Potemkin mold.
FAIR/GOOD. Fit is problematical, and you have to suffer with that legendary Soviet-era quality control, (the one I bought had a very large amount of flash) but with some work, you can make something nice out of it. (DRW)
Old FROG Revenge mold.
GOOD. More like the Revenge than the Royal Sovereign. Forward superstructure is not correct for Royal Sovereign. Beware of Soviet-era quality control! Lots of flash. Nasty sinkholes in the 4" guns. Mold alignment is often bad. Revell-Germany re-issued this kit in 1997, in a slightly cleaned-up form. (DRW)
OK. Generally good, but moulding of small parts are oversize. (GH)
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is the Type L, Type D, and Type S kits in one box. (DRW)
This is the Type D, Type L, and Type S kits in one box packaged by Encore Models. A similar set was issued by AER Moldava containing Types D, L, S, Sch, and M subs. (TR) Review dated 19 April 2006
Editor's Note: old FROG Tiger mold.
Old FROG Torquay mold.
OK. Very basic full-hull rendition of this 1920s-era Soviet sub. The boat is depicted as it appeared during World War II without the conning tower mounted 102mm gun. It is what you would expect from a Russian model kit from the Soviet era: poor fit, very little detail and mostly unuseable small parts. On the plus side, the basic dimensions are correct and the hull parts have surprisingly nice recessed limber hole and torpedo door detail. Issued at various times by Novo, Maquette, AER Moldava (as part of a set including D, L, S, Sch and M class subs), and Encore Models (set of D, L and S class subs).
(TR) Review dated 19 April 2006
OK. Very basic model of this 1930s-era Soviet minelayer sub representing a Series II variant, accurate for L-1 through L-6. The two part full-hull is split down the keel-rudder-deck centerline. Fit is poor with little detail. Small parts are awful, but the overall shapes are correct and the hull parts have nice recessed limber hole and torpedo door detail. Issued at various times by Novo, Maquette, AER Moldava (as part of a set including D, L, S, Sch and M class subs), and Encore Models (set of D, L and S class subs).
(TR) Review dated 19 April 2006
OK. Very basic model of this World War II Soviet sub representing any of the 17 IX bis series boats. The two part full-hull is split down the keel-rudder-deck centerline with poor fit and little detail. Small parts are awful; guns, dive planes, props, and net cutter are basically unuseable. Still, the basic dimensions are correct and the hull parts have surprisingly nice recessed limber hole and torpedo door detail. Issued at various times by Novo, Maquette, AER Moldava (as part of a set including D, L, S, Sch and M class subs), and Encore Models (set of D, L and S class subs).
(TR) Review dated 19 April 2006
Old FROG Undine mold.
Their phone number is: 214-695-7237
Their e-mail: jharloe@cottage-industries.com
Their web site: http://www.cottage-industries.com (DRW)
Entered to injection moulded kit business circa 1960, and company was renamed "Otaki Seisakujo ltd.". Got a popularity with 1/50 steam locomotives, 1/12 cars or 1/48 aircraft.
Otaki ship kits originated in transferred tools from "Nippon Hobby". 1/350 Yamato was one of them. (This kit was identical one to the kit released from "Life Like".) Also they released their original ship kits. 1/250 Yamato, 1/400 Nagato, 1/450 RMS Queen Elizabeth II, 1/800 USN carriers etc. Regrettably, they didn't have enough business power to expand identical scale ranges except 1/800 carrier kits.
Bankrupted in middle of 1980s, most of tools were transferred to Arii and Gunze.
Special thanks to Mr. Shoichi Kinushima, monthly contributor to "Model Art" magazine for his help with the earlier history of Otaki. (MK)
Editor's Note: This kit has apparently been re-issued by CC Lee, and the re-issue has been reviewed by Mark Leonard. For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as the Otaki Tiger Delta. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as the Otaki New Jersey. Reissued several times by Revell. (DRW)
OK. Motorized. Nice hull and deck, but basic superstructure, armament, simplified for motorization. Seems accurate from my references. (GH)
Editor's Note: Said to be a 1960s vintage kit. (DRW)
Motorized.
Editors' Notes: Identical to Revell version. (JP)
I've heard a couple of sources say that the Revell kit is indeed a modernized version of Otaki kit. From what I've read, the Otaki kit represents the ship in World War II. Presumably, the Missouri kit is also closely related, or the same. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Motorized This kit may have been reissued by Arii. Otaki issued this kit at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as the Otaki Tiger Delta. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to be 17 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit may have been reissued by:
OzMods
PO Box 11
Harlaxton, QLD 4350,
Australia
Telephone: (07) 4696 8823 (within Australia)
Telephone: (country code) +61 +7 46968823 (International)
E-mail:ozmods@bigpond.net.au
Proprietor: Greg Anderson
Web Site: http://www.ozmods-kits.com
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: Probably a re-issue of the old Aurora kit, although it could be a pantograph. I don't know enough about either kit to say one way or the other. Issued circa 2002. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, the cruiser Fiume.
Editor's Note: Presumably, the cruiser Zara.
Web Site: http://ptdockyard.com
Includes parts for early and late boats.
1944 version.
Gunboat version of 110' subchaser.
With optional armament to make Axis "Q-Schooner" decoy escort craft.
Taken over as MGB 98-99 by RN.
I have never seen a Pyro kit out of its box, so I really can't comment much on them.
Pyro's "Wheeled" Kits
Some of early kits had wheels on the bottom of the hull. These kits
were Shangri-La,
Missouri,
Chicago,
and Allen M. Sumner. Some have said that these
kits may date back as far as 1949, but I have little evidence on this.
Since Pyro supposedly wasn't even in business until 1953, the 1949 story
seems doubtful.
Pyro's Table Top Navy Kits
Several people have told me that some of Pyro's
1/1200 scale 20th century warships were actually re-issues of old
Eagle kits. From what little I've seen, the British
and German ships in this series seem to be reissues of the Eagle kits, and the
American and Japanese ships may be Pyro originals.
Thanks to Dan Jones of Plastic Ship Modeler magazine for his assistance with this section. (DRW)
Thanks also to Tom Griffin, (Bcgriffin@aol.com) for updating and expanding the list for us. (JP)
Editor's Notes: 1778 frigate. It has been re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Notes: Two piece hull, split along the keel. The kit is said to be about 17.75 inches long, so assuming that the figures I found for length of the prototype are correct, (609 feet, 5.75 inches) the scale should be 1/412. Can be built as either President Cleveland or President Wilson. It has been re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Note: A collection of Age of Sail ships:
(DRW)Editor's Note: Late 16th century ship. Hull is said to be about 10 inches long.
Editor's Note: Probably re-issued by Life-Like and Lindberg. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series, and thus probably a reissue of the Eagle Bismarck. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued sometime around 1966. Hull is said to be about 6 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Yankee Brig of War. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Also released as "Burma River Pirate". (DRW)
Editor's Note: I've only seen pictures of this one, but it appears to be an early, flat transom Baltimore class, whereas the real Chicago was a later, round transom Baltimore class. It looked kind of toy-like in the pictures. This is one of Pyro's "Wheeled" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See also US Revenue Cutter Harriet Lane, reviewed by Dan Jones and Bill Michaels. Early Pyro boxings called the ship by name, later releases (and all the Lindberg ones) called this model the "Civil War Blockade Runner".
GOOD. I found the hull, paddle wheels and housing, decks, deck fittings and superstructure to be flawless. The rigging and mast parts were very amateurishly done as would only be adequate for a decorative model. The mast parts had out of scale eyelets cast in places to allow rigging the entire ship with a single continuous string of out of scale kit supplied line.
I replaced many of the mast parts with my own scratch built ones made from dowel. On the shrouds, I used the kit supplied plastic deadeye assemblies but replaced the kit string with stiff wire. I replaced the string standing rigging with the same stiff wire (tungsten or music wire). The ship's boats were fairly well done but had no sheer. The instruction sheet had no rigging instructions for the boat davits or ground tackle. There were a few other minor errors: The companionway doors on the deck hatches were facing forward instead of aft and so that required a little plastic surgery. The mast caps allowed too much spacing between the upper and lower masts and so had to be replaced with wooden ones.
All in all my finished model looked to be in scale and rigged properly. A master scratch builder would have much to envy in the fine quality of moulding in the paddle and hull parts of this kit. (EP)
Editor's Note: Issued sometime around 1966. See Brooks Rowlett's review of the Lindberg reissue. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit hull is about 10 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Issued circa 1965. It has been re-issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)Editor's Note: Reissued by Lindberg as Diesel Tug, which was reviewed by Bill Michaels. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series, and thus probably a reissue of the Eagle Dorsetshire. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 7.75 inches (20 cm) long. (DRW)
FAIR. (based on in-box review of an old, partially built kit)
It's kind of an interesting little kit. I haven't even measured it yet, but it looks like it's about the right size. The hull is in four pieces: port & starboard halves above & below the waterline. The edge deck elevator amidships looks kind of narrow. The 5"/L38 Mk 32 guns actually look decent for the scale. Details are minimal, as one might expect in a kit of this size and of this vintage, but it's not too bad.
I could not find a copyright date anywhere on the kit, so I don't know exactly how old the mold is.
(DRW), review dated 11 March 2006.
Editor's Notes: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. Issued as:
Editor's Note: see Barbary Pirate, above. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The box says "Gota Le Jon", but it should be spelled "Gota Lejon", which is Swedish for "Gothic Lion", a national symbol. The completed kit is said to be about 6 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Sir Francis Drake's exploration vessel. Said to be about 4 inches long.(DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 14 inches long. Kit issued circa 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I'm not sure if this is the predecessor of the Lindberg Tuna Clipper but it seems likely. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Henry Hudson's exploration vessel. Said to be about 7 inches long.(DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT: The Harriet Lane was one of Pyro's best kits. It is dated now, but was certainly excellent for its day. This kit has also been marketed as a "Civil War Blockade Runner", which is fairly legit, since the Harriet Lane was captured by the Confederates at one point and briefly employed as such. Presumably Lindberg still has this tooling, and it would be nice to see the kit again - scale was listed as 1/124. My example from the late 1950's was molded in four colors of plastic (tan, light blue/gray, black, and white) and included a spool of thread for the rigging and real metal chain for the anchors - details that were omitted in some later, more simplified versions of the kit that were also molded in only a single color - usually gray or light blue. Apparently, a recent Lindberg version was in four colors again, with the hull in green instead of black. (DHJ)
Like most plastic sailing ships, this one would benefit from replacing the plastic masts with ones made from straight-grained wood. Scale (when given) was listed as 1/124. I suspect it is really closer to 1/110. I haven't built mine, but the box says it is a 19 inch long model. The original was 180 feet, so if the kit is 19", then that's a scale of 1/113. If the model is really 19.5", then the scale is about 1/110. (WLM)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued by Pyro as:
It has also been re-issued by Lindberg. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Flagship of Henry VII. Kit issued around 1967. Hull is said to be about 6 inches long.(DRW)
Editor's Note: See Essex-class. One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD. Despite the fact that the box art and the history on the instruction sheet indicate that the kit is theYorktown class USS Hornet (CV-8), the model actually depicts the later Essex class USS Hornet (CV-12). The kit is the same molding as Pyro's Essex (kit C388) and Lexington (kit C390), with AA fit approximately accurate for Lexington in 1945. It is comparable to the old Casadio (aka Almark, ESCI, MPC, Revell AG) 1/1200 "Mini-Ships" kits. Scaling out to about 1/1240, it would fit pretty well with them. Unlike the "Mini-Ships" it wasn't designed as a snap together, so there is a little more detail and some smaller parts. It also has the option of a lower hull for shelf display, complete with separate shafts/propellers and rudders. No aircraft or decals are provided.
There aren't any dates on the parts, instructions, or box, but the kit appears to date from the 1960s. Fit and molding quality are typical of that era, with some minor fit problems and a bit of flash here and there, but nothing serious. Despite the flub with the identity on the box and instructions, the model builds into a surprisingly convincing Essex class carrier. Overall outline is pretty accurate, and there are some nice details, like a decent tripod mast and useable separate AA weapons. Even the 5 inch singles are nicely rendered, and the 5 inch twins are not bad at all. Another aspect of the kit I appreciated was the separately molded 40mm quads, which make customizing the AA fit much easier. This is especially good since the arrangements aren't altogether accurate: the 5 inch galleries on the flight deck edges fore and aft each have three 5 inch singles where there should really be two, with a 40mm quad or a fire control director in the third position. Also, the 20mm singles are molded in banks of four rather than the more numerous groupings actually found on a typical WWII Essex.
Surface detail is busy and generally accurate. On the flight deck, elevators are recessed, as if they were lowered a couple of scale feet. The deck edge lift is slightly too narrow, but this is not too difficult to correct. Tie-down strips, arrestor gear, catapults, guide lines and other details are represented with raised lines. There are also ladders, scuttles, even exterior avgas lines on the hull. It is all a little heavy, but the overall effect looks good in this small scale, especially under paint.
By the standards of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" this is a pretty good kit. It is even slightly better than the Casadio "Mini-Ships" kits, although not as nice as those of the Airfix 1/1200 "Naval History Series".
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Editor's Note: See Essex-class. One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. (DRW)
Box described it as War Schooner. Probably from US Revolutionary War.
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series, and thus probably a reissue of the Eagle King George V. (DRW)
GOOD. This is probably the most accurate plastic kit of a typical Mississippi River sidewheeler. Some errors are that the front of the pilothouse is all windows (the packets had a visor and breastboard - no glass - on the front), and there are no railings for the stairs. The hull is smooth, whereas the prototypes would have been made of planks of wood. The boilers don't have any safety valves or insulation on top. Firedoors are molded in the closed position. Would've been nice to see the kit with a few figures, like stokers and deck crew, which would've almost always been present. A nice kit.
Pyro's "Robt. E Lee" and "Natchez" kits are the same, except for the sides of the paddleboxes (which have the names on them). (RLAW)
Editor's Note: Hull is said to be 21 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Essex-class. One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series.
Editor's Note: Apparently this is actually the Olympia with some parts added for sponsons. The hull is said to be 18 inches long. This kit is said to date back to about 1967.(DRW)
Editor's Note: Hull is said to be 17.5 inches long.(DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. Presumably the same as South Dakota. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1967. (DRW)
FAIR. The casement of the Merrimac was "built up" in 5 pieces and I never saw a copy of this kit that did not have severe warpage on the side pieces - which made assemblying it neatly a real challenge. (DHJ)
Editor's Note: Often sold with Monitor, below. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A wheeled ship model, sort of like the Chicago and Sumner kits. In pictures, turrets 1 & 2 look too widely spaced. (DRW)
FAIR. (DHJ)
Editor's Note: Often sold with Merrimac, above. (DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as Yamato, below.
Editor's Note: Kit hull is about 15 inches long. Kit issued around 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently this is actually the Robert E. Lee except for the sides of the paddleboxes (which have the names on them. See Randy Ward's review of the Robert E. Lee. (DRW)
FAIR. Number 11 of Pyro's "Antique Ship" series, which when first issued in 1966 retailed for the princely sum of 60 cents! It was later released by Life-Like in a two-color version. Designed for younger modelers, these sailing ships featured simple, fast construction and a minimum of parts. The ship scales at about 1/148.
Despite its simplicity, the model appears generally to match what little is known about 15th Century caravels. The bow at the foredeck should probably rake upwards a little more, but it isn't too far off published sources. Niña ("Little Girl") is depicted as lateen rigged rather than square rigged as she appeared during her transatlantic trip under Columbus. The billowing sails, molded integrally with the spars, look surprisingly good. Some smaller parts such as the launch and cannon are rather nicely done as well, although the gun mounts shouldn't be wheeled. Unfortunately the surface detailing throughout is very heavy, especially the raised wood grain. It builds quickly into a pleasing but toylike model.
(TR) Review dated 10 May 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued as
POOR. Was also sold as Washington, and possibly as various South Dakota class ships. Poor fit of hull. Perhaps around 1/1200, suitable for fundless wargamers only. Silhouette OK but delicate. Awful, tiny, separate 5 inch. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. This kit has been issued as
Editor's Notes: Issued circa 1967. Possibly re-issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)FAIR. Number 12 of Pyro's "Antique Ship" series, first issued in 1966 in white plastic. Designed for younger modelers, these sailing ships featured simple, fast construction and a minimum of parts. It was later issued by Life-Like in a two-color version with brown hull/decks/masts and white sails. The hull measures 5 3/4 inches in length, scaling the ship at about 1/148.
Despite its simplicity, the model appears generally to match what little is known about 15th Century caravels. The bow at the foredeck should probably rake upwards a little more, but it isn't too far off published sources. Masts, though simplified, are basically accurate. The billowing sails are molded integrally with the spars, but look surprisingly good. Some smaller parts such as the launch and cannon are rather nicely done as well, although the gun mounts shouldn't be wheeled. Unfortunately the surface detailing throughout is very heavy, especially the raised wood grain. It builds quickly into a pleasing but toylike model.
(TR) Review dated 10 May 2006.
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued as
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1965. Said to be about 8.5 inches long when complete. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1967. A two master with triangular sails, and oars! (DRW)
Editor's Note: Drake's flagship in 1588. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know whether this kit is related to the Marilyn M or not. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The real ship was built around 1520. Kit issued around 1966. The hull is said to be about 12 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued as
Editor's Note: Kit issued around 1966. It is said to be about 11 inches long when complete. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Despatch #9, above. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 14.25 inches long. A wheeled kit, like the Missouri, Chicago, and Sumner. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Sometimes spelled "Syokaku" One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. Presumably the same as Zuikaku. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably based on a Chesapeake Bay sailing oyster boat. Kit issued around 1965. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The real ship was built around 1635. Kit hull is about 12 inches long. Kit issued around 1966. (DRW)
POOR. This is the same molding as Pyro's awful North Carolina/Washington (kits C385/389) which Pyro also tried to pass off as the Massachusetts (kit C395), even though the ships were of entirely different classes. Originating as a rather poor North Carolina, it looks nothing like the South Dakota or Massachusetts. For that matter, it doesn't look much like a North Carolina either. This thing is suitable only for wargaming, preferably with BB guns involved.
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Editor's Note: Late 16th century ship. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit issued around 1967. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I've only seen pictures of this kit, but it looks more like a Fletcher than a Sumner. It does not appear to be very detailed. Turrets are said to rotate. The kit is said to be about 10 inches long. Like the Pyro Chicago, it is said to have wheels on the bottom of the hull. (DRW)
OK(?). I built the old Pyro version of this kit in the 1970s. I remember it as one of Pyro's better efforts. Rigging plan (like most plastic models) is simplified. The Lindberg release looks just like the old Pyro kit, in a new box. This can be a quick way to get a model of a topsail schooner - the alternatives are all wood ship models. I always liked this kit... (WLM)
Editor's Note: A collection of the four Pyro wheeled kits:
(DRW)Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. Presumably a re-issue of the Eagle Victorious. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit issued around 1966. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. (DRW)
POOR. The last unit of the "Table Top Navy" issued, this is the same molding as the Pyro North Carolina (kit C385). As such it has the AA fit of North Carolina in 1945, which is inaccurate for Washington at any time. The box advertises it as 1/1200 scale, but at 6 7/8 inches overall length the model actually scales out to 1/1272. As far as I know it remains the only injection molded plastic kit of a North Carolina class BB in (or at least around) 1/1200 scale, but that is the end of its appeal. This model has nothing but problems: atrocious fit, tons of flash, wildly inaccurate hullform, too narrow forward superstructure, freakishly small 5 inch mounts...only the profile vaguely resembles a North Carolina class battleship. Fortunately this kit is fairly rare and has apparently never been re-released.
(TR) Review dated 16 June 2006.
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. Presumably the same as North Carolina, above. (DRW)
POOR. Suitable for wargaming only at best, although superstructure shape is pretty good.
Molded from an early drawing that showed the early war configuration on one side of the deck plan (6.1 inch triple amidships) and late war (6.1 inch removed, 3 twin 5 inch added) on the other, so the kit is asymmetrical and does not represent the real ship at any time. (Brooks)
Editor's Notes: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series.
This kit has been issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)Editor's Note: Kit is said to be 6 inches long when complete. Also issued as Brig of War (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Essex-class. One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. (DRW)
POOR. Suitable for wargaming only at best, and much cruder than any metal miniature of same ship. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: One of Pyro's "Table Top Navy" Series. Presumably the same as Shokaku. (DRW)
http://www.regiamarinamas.net/id10.htm Their website.
| Andrea Doria | Caio Duilio | Guiseppe Garibaldi | Littorio | North Carolina | Ramb III |
| 3-stacker DDs | Turbine | Washington | Ugo Foscolo | Victoria | Vittorio Veneto |
GOOD.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with a very large assortment of photo etch detail parts included. The kit is molded in light gray resin and the PE is stainless steel. There is also included additional aluminum parts for masts and some smaller gun barrels. Main and secondary turrets are cast with barrels incorporated. They appear to be well done with blast shields or bags molded on. The PE includes among the huge assortment of parts, railings. It does not appear that you will need anything else to complete this model.
The one piece hull includes major elements of the superstructure. Lots of detail is cast into all the surfaces of the deck and hull sides. Delicate splinter shields and bulkheads are well executed. Contrary to my review of Caio Duilio RM 021 also found here, my sample was not marred by a multitude of casting bubbles along the waterline, as this one was quite free of such bubbles. The bottom will require sanding to remove excess resin from the casting process to get the ship to sit flat on your shelf.
The other resin parts are highly detailed but really flashy. It isn't the heavy, parts killing flash found in some other kits but it will take time and patience to remove it (it is somewhat like the really thin layer of ice that first forms atop a puddle). You will have the usual difficulties removing the more delicate parts from their pour stubs. (I recommend that you get a selection of #11 type saw blades for your Xacto knife handle for this task) The PE includes lots of choice detail items but a delicate hand will be needed to keep from bending them when adding them to the ship.
All in all this is a very nice kit well worth seeking out, the only reason I don't rate it excellent is the abundance of flash on the parts in my kit. Resin kits do vary widely from kit to kit and box to box so mine may have been an anomaly in this regard but given the status of the Caio Duilio kit I think the flash will come with everyone's kit.
Directions:: one large, double sided sheet and one double sided standard sized sheet that give instructions for assembly and painting of this ship in various fits and camouflage markings including postwar configurations (1940-1956). Unusual for most steel warships there are also rigging instructions included. The text is in Italian and roughly translated English. The directions make a truly valiant effort at being complete but I am betting more than one modeler will have difficulty with the construction of the bridge in spite of all the illustrations. Instructions for the many paint schemes is called out in English and Italian using Humbrol paints.
Packaging: ugly, heavy, white, recycled cardboard box minimally marked. No box art to speak of. All parts secured in many small bags stapled to the box sides to keep them from moving.
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as
Capitani Romani class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with photo etch detail parts included. The kit is molded in light gray resin and the PE is stainless steel. There is also included additional aluminum parts for masts and secondary gun barrels. The PE includes railings. It does not appear that you will need anything else to complete this model.
The one piece hull includes major elements of the superstructure. Lots of detail is cast into all the surfaces of the deck and hull sides. Delicate splinter shields and bulkheads are well executed. However, my sample was somewhat marred by a multitude of casting bubbles along the waterline. They are easily repaired with putty and sanding but it is annoying. The bottom will also require sanding to remove excess resin from the casting process.
The other resin parts are highly detailed but a bit flashy. You will have the usual difficulties removing the more delicate parts from their pour stubs. (I recommend that you get a selection of #11 type saw blades for your Xacto knife handle for this task) The PE includes lots of choice detail items but a delicate hand will be needed to keep from bending them when adding them to the ship.
All in all this is a very nice kit well worth seeking out.
Directions:: 2 large, double sided sheets that give instructions for assembly and painting of this ship in various fits and camouflage markings including postwar configurations (1940-1956). Unusual for most steel warships there are also rigging instructions included. The text is in Italian and roughly translated English. The directions make a truly valiant effort at being complete but I am betting more than one modeler will have difficulty with the construction of the bridge in spite of all the illustrations.
Packaging: cardboard box minimally marked. No box art to speak of. All parts secured in bags stapled to the box sides if not wrapped in bubble wrap.
(WJS), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Andrea Doria-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Vittorio Veneto-class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin kit with extensive photo etch and supplementary aluminum parts. This kit includes turned aluminum main and secondary battery gun barrels ( a very welcome addition). The one piece hull incorporates a wealth of detail and very fine planking on the stern deck. A large part of the superstructure is incorporated into the hull casting with great surface detail. You will have to carefully remove excess resin from the casting process from the bottom of the hull but there are no bubbles, pinholes or other flaws to mar the surface. Small resin parts are subject to quite a bit of flash but it is easily removed. PE is complete with railings and is highly detailed as well.
This is an excellent kit that belongs in any collection of battleships. It will be hard to find in the US but well worth seeking out.
Note: kit can be built as Vittorio Veneto or as Littorio (a/k/a Italia).
Directions:: text and line drawings combined with an exploded view master assembly diagram. Alternative camouflage schemes are illustrated for Littorio or Vittorio Veneto. All text is in Italian. This will be a challenging build for non-Italian speakers.
Packaging: cardboard box minimally marked. No box art to speak of. All parts secured in bags stapled to the box sides if not wrapped in bubble wrap.
(WJS), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as
For comparison, check out these kits:
Renwal didn't always get the details right, but they were always nicely executed above the waterline. Scale was 1/500 for surface ships, and about 1/200 for submarines. Renwal also issued a series of 1/1200 scale ships, but I know less about these. Fit on Renwal originals is beautiful, less so on Revell re-issues.
Below the waterline, Renwal surface ships tended to be a bit boxy and lacked detail. They had characteristic two piece stands: beveled squares with a sphere between the square and the bottom of the hull.
Renwal ballistic missile subs were superb cutaway models. They were the best submarine models of their era, and, in some ways, are still unequaled to this day. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A collection of three 1/1200 scale ships:
Editor's Note: A collection of three 1/1200 scale ships:
Editor's Note: A collection of three 1/1200 scale ships:
Editor's Note: A collection of three 1/1200 scale ships:
Editor's Note: A collection of twelve 1/1200 scale ships:
EXCELLENT. Another winner from Renwal. A very nice cutaway model, with a complete interior. It is a close relative of Renwal's George Washington kit, with changes to reflect at least some of the differences between the classes. Like the George Washington kit, this kit is designed so that one side of the hull folds down to reveal the interior.
The kit measures about 24.75 inches (63 cm) long, making the scale about 1/199.
The exterior is nicely updated from the George Washington kit, and seems to be more accurate. The missile deck is substantially better, and the hatch for the one opening missile tube opens correctly to the side.
It has the same dome-shaped bow piece as the George Washington kit, but that's not entirely bad. The four torpedo tubes (represented in raised detail) are actually correct for the Ethan Allen class. Tom Dougherty proved to me that bow piece isn't quite pointy enough, but it doesn't bother me that much.
Similarly, the stern pieces are also from the George Washington kit, and the rudders should not be hinged. I'd cut the fixed parts of the rudder off of the tail cone, and then glue the pieces to the rudder, and fill with strip styrene and putty. After a long debate, Tom Dougherty has proven to my satisfaction that the top rudder for the Ethan Allen class should be larger than the lower rudder, just as it was on the Lafayette and Benjamin Franklin classes. The upper rudder should be extended so that the trailing edge is about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) tall.
The interior may not be 100% accurate, but it's close. This kit was truly amazing in its day, it still holds up fairly well now. The kit was re-issued by Revell Germany in 2002, as the Andrew Jackson.
Ken Hart wrote an interesting article on this kit in the Winter 1993 edition of the SubCommittee Report (DRW)
GOOD - bordering on EXCELLENT (based on in-box review). My rating down a half-notch from Mr. Wells' as I can't call a kit "excellent" with major details visibly wrong. High quality mold and good fit, but hull doesn't taper finely enough fore and aft; missile deck casing fairing specific to Lafayette and Ethan Allen; incorrect for Jackson and many others named. Rudder and stern planes articulated mid-chord but should rotate as whole units. Periscope/sensor masts selection and arrangement in sail completely fictitious. Inside, layout mimicks Revell George Washington/Abraham Lincoln kit, though two molds not at all related. Torpedo room, in particular, far too spacious and layout fictitious - still, torpedo tube hatches and bulkhead details very good. Similar comments applicable to remainder of interior, where control panels and cabinets - again, all fictitious - sometimes plagued by sinkmarks. IIRC, key missing compartments/spaces (which I know of) are: 1) Missile Control Center (immediately forward of Missile Deck, mid-level), and; 2) Auxilliary Machine Rooms 1-3 (immediately forward of Reactor Compartment; all 3 levels). Likewise, size and compartmentation of engine/maneuvering rooms incorrect - though types of machinery (if not the control stations) in each are essentially correct. Perhaps best feature is kit provides basis - hull, decks and bulkheads - on which to correct and detail truly accurate cutaway SSBN (though I haven't yet done it). Also some have simply closed up outer hull to build a big, "close-enough" SSBN, in 1/200 scale. About the same scale to make a very nice grouping with your Revell Lionfish and Nichimo I-19 or Type-IX U-boat builds. (MMS)
Editor's Note: Renwal issued this kit at various times as:
and maybe others. It has been re-issued at least twice by Revell, in 1977 and 2002. (DRW)
OK. Six Cleveland class light cruisers were converted into guided missile cruisers.
| Name | Conversion | 6 inch turrets | Enlarged flagship bridge | Missile | Launcher | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Galveston | CLG-3 | SCB-140 | 2 | N | Talos | Mk 12 |
| Little Rock | CLG-4 | SCB-140 | 1 | Y | Talos | Mk 12 |
| Oklahoma City | CLG-5 | SCB-140 | 1 | Y | Talos | Mk 12 |
| Providence | CLG-6 | SCB-146 | 1 | Y | Terrier | Mk 5 |
| Springfield | CLG-7 | SCB-146 | 1 | Y | Terrier | Mk 5 |
| Topeka | CLG-8 | SCB-146 | 2 | N | Terrier | Mk 5 |
Despite the major differences between these ships, Renwal used a single kit to represent all of them. It does not represent any one of them particulary well, but the kit is probably closest to the Topeka. Curiously, Renwal also issued this kit as the Pasadena (CL-65) which never received the missile conversion.
This section will provide notes that apply to the kit in general. I've tried to leave details of the individual ships listed under the specific kits.
It seems obvious that Renwal did not have any plans for the modified Cleveland class, and based their kit on the World War II Cleveland class, and replaced the two aft turrets with Terrier missile launchers. In many ways, it might be easier to convert this kit into a World War II Cleveland class. With two more 6" turrets and some 40mm guns, you could make a reasonably good unmodifed Cleveland out of it.
Despite the major problems, Renwal got many details right. The 6" guns are gorgeous, (guns elevate individually) and the Terrier batteries are a real treat. The forward superstructure is nice too. The aft superstructure is nice too, but totally incorrect for the modified Clevelands. It is just about right for an unmodified Cleveland, though. The 3"/L50s are kind of basic, but reasonable for their day.
There are some downsides. The 5" gun barrels are too long. (They make good 5"/54 mk 41s for Montana class BBs, though) The molded-into-the-deck solid plastic railing doesn't help at all. The hull is pretty bad below the waterline, but the plastic is thick enough to allow you to make some adjustments. And then, there's radars... Still, I kind of like this kit. The sum of its parts is greater than the whole. This kit is worthwhile if only for its parts. (DRW)
Renwal issued this kit at various times as:
and maybe others!
It has been re-issued by:
OK. This is the only kit of a Coontz-class DLG/DDG ever produced in polystyrene. Too bad it's inaccurate. It is obvious that Renwal simply scaled up a Mitscher (DL-2) class destroyer leader, and traded a Terrier launcher for the aft 5" gun.
On the plus side, the guns are nice, the Terrier launcher is beautiful, as is the Weapon Alpha. (which the real Coontz class never carried, but Mitschers did) Renwal deserves some kind of credit for trying to do a better plastic railing on this kit. It's far from modern photo-etch, but at least they tried. The main bridge structure is close, (perfect for a Mitscher) and the funnels look OK, but all the radars are wrong, (correct for an early Mitscher) and the first superstructure level is completely wrong (pretty close for a Mitscher, though). The Terrier directors (SPQ-5 would have been correct for an early DLG) and associated structures are completely missing. You can get a decent set of spare SPQ-5s from a Revell Long Beach, which doesn't need them.
Another oddity is the planked decks. They should be steel, not wood, for either a Coontz class or a Mitscher class. Lightly sand the raised planking off, and paint the decks dark grey.
The eternal question for this kit is: is it easier to correct the superstructure to make a Coontz, or to shrink the hull to make a Mitscher? That's for the modeler to decide.
Probably the easiest solution of all is to duplicate the gun, put it in place of the missile launcher, and declare the result a 1/480 scale Mitscher. (then mail the spare Terrier launcher to me!!)
I assume that when Renwal went out of business, Revell got the mold. To the best of my knowledge, they have never re-issued it. I really hope that they still have this mold somewhere. By duplicating the 5 inch gun and revising the instructions, they could easily put out a fairly good Mitscher class DL. One can only hope, but don't hold your breath while you're waiting. (DRW)
FAIR - bordering on OK (based on in-box review). I'm not nearly as informed on this class as Mr. Wells, but even I can see hull is obviously too flat - too "boxy" - below the waterline, even to having a "stern terrace" (where propshafts insert) a la Aurora kits. Prop shafts also look very thick; propellers clunky, toy-like. Waterline indicated by indenting of entire hull below that level. And have to disagree with Dave about railings - look very thick and offensive (as all molded-on railings) to me. (For the "best" molded-in railings, check Nichimo 1/550 Yamato/Musashi. Still, no molded railings can match - by a longshot - appearance of photo-etching…) Many of this kit's details nice, though: 5" turret and twin-3" AAs perfectly shaped and in scale, if still a bit lacking in detail; life rafts quite nice, as are masts. Twenty-mm shields acceptable, but barrels cry for replacement with something thinner (sprue or wire). Likewise, clunky (and inaccurate) radars replaceable with PE - probably most if not all available on Gold Medal Models' 1/500 Naval Ship- and 1/540 Essex/Midway/Forrestal frets. Superstructure fairly detailed, if a bit heavy. Waterlining this build will save 3/4 of the headaches listed above, but if doing a full-hull then extent of corrections will facilitate resizing to an accurate Mitscher-class. In either case removing railing and adding details - particularly PE - will add significant work but effort well worthwhile. After which you'll have a fine escort for your Revell and Renwal '50s-era carriers. (MMS)
Editor's Note: Renwal issued this kit at various times as:
and maybe others! (DRW)
Editor's Note: Many Essex class carriers received two major upgrades in the 1950s: SCB-27 and SCB-125. SCB-125 included the angle deck and the enclosed bow.
GOOD. This kit represents an Essex class with the SCB-125 conversion. Specifically, it represents one that received the SCB-27C and 125 conversions during the same yard period. It is thus most accurate as the Shangri-La, (CVA-38) Bon Homme Richard (CVA-31) and Lexington (CVA-16). It may be closest of all to the Shangri-La, since the kit has the regular rectangular elevator forward on the centerline. (not the extented, pentagonal elevator) It would represent these ships in the late 1950s, shortly after their SCB-125 conversion.
Fit is wonderful, especially compared to the Revell 1/535 kit. The sides of the hangar deck fit very securely, unlike those on the Revell kit. The flight deck has engraved wood planking, which is correct for an early SCB-125 Essex, though it is somewhat spoiled by the heavy raised stripes in the landing area. Unfortunately, the bridle catchers are missing.
Another nice thing is the wider beam. While the Revell kit is notorious for being too narrow, the Renwal kit's beam is almost exactly correct.
I like the 5 inch guns on this kit better than those on the Revell kit, but they're still not much. They're slightly cleaner looking, and slightly more detailed, but they still only vaguely resemble the real thing.
Jodie Peeler would be pleased to note that Renwal got the height of the superstructure right. It's almost exactly 3/16 inch shorter than that on the competing Revell kit, just as she prescribes for that kit. She would be displeased to note that the superstructure still hangs too far over the starboard side. The escalator does not line up.
Aircraft include thirteen F9F-8s (seven with folded wings), and two A3Ds. The F9F-8s are just gorgeous. I like them better than the F9F-6s from Revell's Midway class. (or from the "trainer" aircraft set for the Revell Essex class) Revell should have taken lessons from them! You also get a three Regulus missiles on some sort of launch trailer.
The kit's biggest failings are below the waterline. The hull is a bit too boxy below the waterline, and the draught seems a bit shallow. There is no bulb bow, although the tip of the bow seems slightly blunt. There are no bilge keels. Revell's rounder lower hull is generally a better starting point. I do like the five-bladed propellers, though I'm not absolutely sure they're correct for this ship.
This kit is said to date back to about 1958 or 1959. It was been re-issued by Advent once, (as Ticonderoga) and maybe once by Revell. (as Shangri-La?)
Special thanks to Jodie Peeler for her sage advice on Essex-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) The hull is a little too shallow. The addition of a hangar deck behind the elevator doors would be a great addition, but still would not cover up the shallow hull lines.
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
OK - bordering on FAIR (based on in-box review). Generally agree with Mr. Wells' comments, but feel hull really detracts; too shallow below the waterline by 1/5" - but even shallower above waterline (freeboard); by 0.387" - and w/typical Renwal "indented waterline" hull recessed below waterline. Prop-insertions inaccurate - hardly matters considering hull. Above decks some great features; forward bow area and flight deck correct for SCB-27c/SCB-125 ships (Lexington-II, Bon Homme Richard and Shangri-La), though bow rake somewhat exaggerated by squat hull. Flight deck excellent; planking lines raised, but very fine. Catapult tracks correct for SCB-27c/SCB-125 (C-11s). Island even better (though lacking is surface detail and railings need removal); platforms and splinter shields w/beautiful bracing/support detail, solid fit and very nice bridge (window) enclosures. Disagree with Dave on some aircraft; Cougars a little too missile-shaped for me, though Skywarriors also pretty nice. Discard or find other use(s) for (3) Regulus missiles and HRS helicopter (inaccurate anyway) - should have been an HUP or HUS. Guns a mixed bag; 5"ers just awful (look like overly squat and stubby machine guns in 1/72 scale) but twin-3" AAs rather good - very similar to Dewey/King kit. This build will be challenging; "Fair" rating above only earned by quality of flight deck, island and about half the details - all of which I would seriously consider grafting onto a 1/540 Essex hull. (And use leftover hurricane bow to bash modernized Revell Midway, perhaps.) Otherwise, substantial hull work required on which the above-deck details - with new 5" guns and PE of course - should yield a gorgeous build. And at a size which will really stand up next to your Revell Boston escort.
FAIR. Dimensionally better than the Revell SCB-125 kit but a simpler kit with less refinement in its details. The model's configuration (with the prominent vertical facings on the bow) is only appropriate for Lexington, Bon Homme Richard or Shangri-La; other units will require considerable plastic surgery. The lower hull, such as it is, would require a lot of work to correct, so it's easier to waterline the hull or conceal the lower hull in a diorama base (refer to scale drawings so the model sits at proper hull height). Flight deck planking is a neat touch, though complicated by sinkmarks in later reissues; some of this can be addressed by representing the non-skid coating and flight deck plating applied to the real ships. 2014 SSP reissue by Revell includes a very nice decal sheet. With aftermarket suppliers offering replacement islands, directors and weapons, this can be the basis of a very nice model, and it's good to have it again on the market.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Notes: Renwal issued this kit at various times as:
and maybe others!
It has been re-issued by
For comparison, check out:
FAIR. Same kit as Dewey, all comments apply. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under Modified Cleveland Class.
OK. Okay, so it's inaccurate. In reality, it's more like an unmodified Cleveland than a modified Cleveland. With two more 6" turrets and some 40mm guns, you could make a reasonably good unmodifed Cleveland out of it. The 6" guns are gorgeous, (guns elevate individually) and the Terrier batteries are a real treat. (Of course, the real Galveston had Talos missiles, so save those Terrier batteries for your Revell Long Beach. It needs them...)
If you're trying to make a decent Galveston, you've got your work cut out for you. The two Terrier launchers should be replaced by a single Talos, (stolen from a Monogram Chicago/Columbus) the SPG-49 missile directors are completely missing, (again, steal from the Chicago/Columbus) the reload structure for the Talos launcher must be built from scratch. The 5" gun barrels are too long. (They make good 5"/54 mk 41s for Montana class BBs, though) The molded-into-the-deck solid plastic railing doesn't help at all. The hull is pretty bad below the waterline, but the plastic is thick enough to allow you to make some adjustments. And then, there's radars... Still, I kind of like this kit. The sum of its parts is greater than the whole. Worthwhile if only for its parts. (DRW)
FAIR - bordering on GOOD (based on in-box review). Features and quality similar to Dewey/King kit, but with advantages and kit has far more potential, IMHO. Again, hull bottom too square - again, indented everywhere below WL - w/Aurora-like "terrace stern" - rudders, shafts correspondingly fictitious, w/same thick, toylike props as Dewey. Again, deck burdened by thick railing; hull and deck so similar overall to Revell Helena/Baltimore as to be noteworthy. (And Revell/AHM did later release this exact same mold.) Once up to deck, quality improves considerably; no offensive molded-in features (e.g., Revell 20mms), and anchor chains, bittes, chocks, capstans etc. all crisply molded. Twin-3" AAs again nicely shaped - like Dewey - if detail still lacking. Also nice twin-5" DPs - though barrels too long (Dave's right), but easily nipped to correct. IMHO these are best shaped, most useful USN 5"ers in 1/500; longer, finer barrels even more useful than North Carolina kit. Main 6" turrets and barrels also very nice but lacking detail. Superstructure detailed, starts heavy (low down; like Dewey) but upper levels increasingly fine - and accurate for Cleveland-class. Various gun directors good to excellent, though free-standing radars once again clunky, inaccurate. Chopper correct type - HSS/HUS - but looks ridiculous; reshape or (easy to) scratchbuild better. Main problem, as Mr. Wells noted, is kit does not depict any actual vessel - though superstructure close (and attractive) for late-WWII Cleveland-class. Unlike some other Renwals, kit could be waterlined OOB; freeboard looks correct. Otherwise major surgery again needed to accurize full-hull build. Then add detail to main turrets, 5" DPs and take (or make) a couple quad-40mms from N.Carolina - and cast copies of all in resin to bash into a WWII Cleveland. Or (per Dave's description) take longer route to accurize this for the real CLG Galveston. (Or Topeka, if you really want a Terrier CLG) Just depends on whether you want an escort for your Lindberg Yorktown-II (the Cleveland) or your Revell or Renwal angled-deck Essex (the Galveston). (MMS)
OK. Overall the detail is nice, but to todays standards it is lacking. There are very obvious errors with this kits, but none the less this kit has a lot of potential as it provides a good foundation.
First no CLG had twin launchers aft. Two CAGs did! So right off the bat, there is a huge problem. The entire aft superstructure must be built to represent the missile magazine and supporting radars. This will require a lot of research as there was a great deal of superstructure added. Additionally the kits seems to represent vertical loading which would, again, be correct for a CAG!
Obviously there was some confusion at Renwal at the time as to which ship they wanted to build.
The hull needs to be rounded. The plastic is pretty thick so some correction is possible. Bilge keels must be added. The stern is almost a lost cause, but it is all you have. The shape below the water line in this region is mentioned above.
I suggest stealing the twin 5 inch and 40mm mounts from a Renwal North Carolina as the scale is close and the overall appearance is superior to the mounts provided.
This kit makes a really good Cleveland without a great deal of work. As for a CLG conversion, it can be corrected but it will take a lot of effort, more so and yet similar to corrections to Revell's Long Beach.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
GOOD Same kit as Ethan Allen, however, the Andrew Jackson was a Lafayette class, and not an Ethan Allen class sub. The model is thus too short, and several details (rudders, for example) are wrong. (DRW)
GOOD Same kit as Ethan Allen. Tom Dougherty tells me that the kits issued as Thomas Jefferson had one side made out of clear plastic. Tom and I are still arguing about whether this individual boat had a 425 foot hull, which would make the kit inaccurate for this particular boat. Several reference sources conflict. (DRW)
FAIR. Same kit as Dewey, all comments apply. (DRW)
GOOD. See Essex-class SCB-125 (DRW)
GOOD. In some ways, nicer than Revell's 1/570, but Revell did a better hull. Main guns elevate individually. (DRW)
GOOD - bordering on EXCELLENT (based on in-box review). Have to subtract points for hull - just a "hull man" I guess - and Revell certainly did do better! Per Revell hull proportions, total height is short about 1/4" - and thus rake of bow exaggerated - just like Essex-class SCB-125. But stern underside - also like SCB-125 Essex - appears accurate, including nice rudders and shafts, though same lousy, toy-like props again. Also, turn of bilge nicely curved - and hull not too "indented" below waterline. Deck again has thick railing - needs removal - but no offensive molded-in features (e.g., Revell 20mms), and bittes, chocks, capstans etc. - even anchor chains - all crisply molded (though hawse-holes inexplicably missing). Individual, shielded single-20mms by far best available in this scale; need only some thinning/detailing at butt ends. Quad-40mms could also use detail, need front shields, but otherwise best such parts in 1/500 scale, as well. Twin-5" DPs likewise very good, though also needing detail. Main 16" turrets hands down best ever made in this scale; need only slight additional detailing. Superstructure "classic Renwal"; starts (low down) heavy, but with good detail and upper levels increasingly fine - and apparently accurate. Various gun directors good, but radars have to go - though main (SK-2) dish actually open lattice - still all cry for replacement w/PE . Remove HRS chopper for Cold War build - nobody wants to see a North Carolina with helicopter! Kit's biggest problem the hull, emminently fixeable with hoist - 0.247" worth - at waterline, and corrections to bow (above- and below waterline). Waterlining build could avoid much work but prow and armor belt will still need attention. Once provided - and some details plus PE (GMM 1/500 USN Ship fret), you are going to have one awesome Showboat - or Rusty W - to escort your Revell Hornet.
Editor's Notes: Renwal issued this kit as:
It has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out:
Editor's Note: See notes under Modified Cleveland Class.
OK. This is the same kit as the Galveston, but the real Pasadena never received the CLG conversion. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This is a more complicated case than I thought. First, I should state for the record that I have not seen this kit either in or out of the box. It is presumed by several sources to be produced from the same mold as the Seminole, below. That said, the Sarasota was not the same as the Seminole at all. The Sarasota was an APA, not an AKA, from a different class and based on a completely different merchant hull. (VC2-S-AP5) Purchasers and builders should be aware of these facts.
GOOD. I was given a slightly damaged, built example of this. It is a very-nice-in-appearance ship model, though with the usual limitations on deck detail of a smaller kit. The funnel has a separate tube visible inside. The landing craft compare very nicely in appearance to the bigger Revell APA kits. There are separate twin 20mm mounts, good looking superstructure detail, rudder, prop and bilge keels, though they stick out horizontally from side - usually bilge keels are at the turn of bilge, so I don't know how accurate this is. SARASOTA AKA 204 is same kit, different decals. (I was given this one too, sent one away as re-gift, kept the other)
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
GOOD. Like Brooks, I was given a damaged built example.
The kit represents an AKA (attack transport) based on a C2-S-AJ3 hull.
First issue is dimensions. The hull is 11 inches (28cm) long, and thus it scales out to 1/500. No waterline is marked on the hull, but given the ship's 26.3 foot draft, the model's hull appears to have about the right depth. (unlike the Revell APA kits) The problem is the beam. My references show a beam of 63 feet, which would indicate that the model's beam should be about an inch and a half. (3.8 cm) The kit's beam is about 1 5/8 inches. (about 4.1 cm)
This brings us to the hull construction. It's different than most Renwal ships, in that it has a three piece hull. There are left and right hull "halves", with a traditional Renwal bottom insert which attaches to the two stands. This odd hull might make it possible to narrow the beam a bit, at least on the hull. Narrowing the deck might be trickier. One odd thing about the hull is the bilge keels: they extend out from the horizontally! Apparently, proper provision was made for a correctly sized rudder, and the propeller that goes with it, but these were missing on my old, battered wreck. The hull also shows another characteristic of its era: railings molded into the hull.
Deck details are remarkably good for their day. Brooks already pointed out that the kit has separate 20mm guns, which are much nicer than the molded-into-the deck 20mm guns roughly contemporary Revell APA. The 40mm guns are decent, and the open mount 5" gun is vastly superior to those on Renwal's own Essex-class CVA. The landing craft are also quite nice.
I don't have either the box or the instructions for this kit, so I don't know exactly how old the mold is. I'd guess late 1950s or early 1960s. I don't know if Revell kept this mold when they took over the other Renwal molds. To the best of my knowledge, they have never re-issued it. If they did keep the mold, it would probably be worth re-issuing. (DRW), review dated 11 March 2006.
Editor's Notes: Renwal issued this kit as:
GOOD. See Essex-class SCB-125 (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under Modified Cleveland Class.
OK. Same kit as the Galveston, so many of the same comments apply. Springfield did have one Terrier launcher, (unlike the Galveston, which had Talos, and unlike the kit, which has two Terrier launchers) but after her CLG conversion, she also had a very different forward superstructure which is in no way reflected in this model. Matt Stein correctly pointed out in his review of the Galveston that it might be easiest to convert this kit into the the Topeka (CLG-8), since she had a Terrier launcher and the original bridge structure. It would still take quite a bit of work, though.
Editor's Note: This kit was reissued by Revell in 1982. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A collection of six 1/1200 scale ships:
Editor's Note: A collection of six 1/1200 scale ships:
GOOD. See Essex-class SCB-125 (DRW)
Editor's Note: From pictures on the net, it looks more like a toy than a model. (DRW)
GOOD. See North Carolina-class, above. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. A superb cutaway model for its day. Over the years, we've found some flaws with it, (I've been arguing this with Tom Dougherty for some time) but considering that the kit came out only a little after the real sub, it's pretty amazing. In fact, there was some controversy at the time that the kit might be a little too accurate!
The kit measures almost exactly 24 inches (61 cm) long, making the scale 1/191. (some boxes said 1/200)
The spring loaded "launching" Polaris missile is a bit of a gimmick, but quite forgivable for its day.
Some problems Tom and I have picked up:
Despite some flaws, (most of which can be corrected without difficulty) this kit is still a lovable classic. (DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
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Revell was an independent company until the death of Lew Glaser, and the retirement of his wife, Royle Glaser, both of which happened in the 1970's. Sometime in the late 1970s, Revell acquired most of Renwal's molds. In the late 70's, Revell was bought by the French toymaker, CEJI, who then got into considerable financial trouble in the mid-80's.
Revell and Monogram, for many years rivals in the US market, merged in 1986. Apparently, it was around this time that Revell moved out of Venice Beach to the Chicago area. The combined company still uses both brand names.
The combined company was purchased by Binny & Smith (a unit of Hallmark Cards) in 1994. Revell-Monogram was purchased by Alpha International, (based in Cedar Rapids, Iowa) the parent company of Gearbox Toys & Collectibles, in September of 2001. In November of 2002, Revell was purchased by RM Investment Group LLC, a private investment group. In May of 2007, Revell was sold to Hobbico, which was best known for its line of RC aircraft. In early 2018, Hobbico declared bankruptcy, and by April 2018, the company was sold to German investors, who only seem to intend to keep Revell-Germany, leaving Revell-US's fate unknown.
Revell-Monogram, LLC
8601 Waukegan Road
Morton Grove, IL 60053-2295
Consumer Affairs: 800-833-3570
Their web page.
Revell also had a very independent German division. The German operation was started in 1956. US molds sometimes get shipped to Germany, and vice versa. Revell-Germany may have been responsible for the 1/570 line of battleships. Revell-Germany also appears to be responsible for the line of 1/1200 scale "Miniships" as well. Revell-Germany seems to have European distribution rights for certain DML kits, and so some of their kits are reboxed DML/Skywave 1/700 kits. Revell-Germany now seems to own Matchbox's line of plastic models, and so some Matchbox molds have been issued as Revell kits, and vice versa.
In September 2006, Revell sold its German division to a private investment group, lead by the local management. The independent company is now known as Revell GMBH, though they still seemed to cooperate extensively with Revell-Monogram. In February 2012, Hobbico, the parent company of Revell-Monogram, since 2007, acquired Revell-Germany.
Revell kits issued in the 1980s (at least until around 1988) had tan colored boxes. These typically had 4-digit kit numbers. Revell-Germany kits issued in the 1990s and later can be identified by their blue-green boxes. They typically have 5-digit kit numbers, starting in "0".
Revell AG
Henschelstrasse 20-30
D-32257 Bunde
Germany
Revell Germany's web page.
Apparently there was a British branch of Revell at one point in the 1970s, but I know almost nothing about it. From what I've read, they actually did their own manufacturing in England. They released the 1/570 King George V kit as the Duke of York. Their address was:
Revell (Great Britain) Limited,
Cranbourne Road,
Potters Bar,
Herts,
England.
Some of Revell's earliest ship models (which are still re-issued regularly) are completely inaccurate below the waterline. These have squared off hulls with flat bottoms, even though they are NOT intended to be waterline models. It might be easier to convert these kits into waterline models than to try to fix the gross errors in the hull.
Some of the most glaring examples of this are:
>From what others have told me, the original rationale behind these odd hull forms was that Revell hadn't decided yet whether these kits should be true models, or toys that could be played with on the floor. By the late 1950s, Revell started making kits with better looking lower hulls.
Many early Revell ships also have solid plastic railings molded into the decks and or hulls. A sharp hobby knife, a steady hand, and some sandpaper can get rid of these. These should be cut off, and replaced with photoetched brass, or with nothing at all. I personally think that ships in scales smaller than 1/350 do not need PEB or any other railings.
Revell-Germany has issued a group of 1/1200 scale ships, which they call "Miniships". These molds apparently were of Italian origin. Bert Atwood provided the following information on the origins of these kits:
"The name of the Italian firm that made the moulds was Casadio. These were sold in England late 60's early 70's by a firm called Almark as Almark miniships. They next appeared as Esci's, then Revells and the latest I have purchased they were again Esci's. Original intention was to produce French ships as well, but I have never seen any of those. Almark also used to publish books on ww 2 subjects such as navies, classes of ships, ships camouflage. armour and badges etc. they also produced decals in 1/72 and 1/35 scales of armoured unit markings for the german and british army divisions.It was a pity they closed down many years ago. "
Thanks to Art Anderson for information on the history of Revell, and to Bert Atwood for tracking down the history of the Miniships. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A collection of kits, circa 1954, including the following:
EXCELLENT. I actually saw Aida in Marmaris few years ago, and I must say that model depicts the original quite well. Kit is supplied with good waterpictures which makes the model attractive to younger modelers. All the details are quite well molded. If only Revell would do warships in Miniships series that good!
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note Completed ship is said to be 32.75 inches long. This kit probably dates back to about 1961. (kit H-392) It is said to have been re-issued in 2000, (kit 5621?) but I didn't see it. This kit is a relative of Revell's Kearsage kit. (DRW)
FAIR. Detail is kind of clumsy. 20mm guns are molded into the deck. These must be cut off and replaced. The 16 inchers can be modified into something usable, (despite the too small barrels & excess plastic below the turret "ears") but the 5 inchers need to be replaced. The slots for the barrels extend all the way to the edge of the mount. (blech!) The 40mm guns aren't much either. Go get a couple of Skywave E-6 sets. The bow is a little bit too blunt, but can be easily sharpened. Can be built as a full hull or waterline model. Originally issued in the late 1960s. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following kits:
GOOD. A good but not excellent model, accuracy not assessed. Reasonable per my references. Typical Revell-Germany, slightly large details, slightly soft plastic. (AP)
Editor's Note: This kit is presumably an ancestor of the Gepard kit. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. This is one of Revell's best sailing ship models. The shape of the hull, the sail plan, and subdued copper and wood plank detail all capture the look and feel of this famous schooner. The clean lines of the hull, with the fairly simple rig, make this a good first sailing ship model.
This kit dates back to 1969. The first version was "easily adapted for use in water", with decent sails, and a removable keel. (I had one of these as a boy- it was a fast pond sailer, and my favorite.) As far as I know, only the first release of the kit had these extra features.
The kit was re-released in 1980, in the yellow-striped box. This version of the kit dropped the pond sailing feature, and instead of the working sails, standard vac-formed sails were included.
The kit was also released as the Civil War Blockader. The America did serve in the Civil War as both a Confederate Blockade Runner and as a Union Navy Blockader, so this was a legitimate re-boxing of the kit, and not just marketing fluff. My Blockader kit carried a 1974 date. I think the Blockader was the first time the kit appeared with the vac-formed sails.
The large, one-piece deck has decent plank detail. The ship doesn't have a lot of deck fittings, so it is pretty clean looking. All of the cabin windows and skylights are opaque moldings. The hull has subdued plank and copper plating detail (all raised lines), but it looks appropriate for the scale. (WLM)
Editor's Note: Bill told me that the kit portrays the ship circa 1851. The kit is said to be about 24 inches long. (DRW)
GOOD. Don't you wish modern model manufacturers tried offbeat subjects like this? This kit is a beauty, right up there with the other nicely-detailed kits Revell put out in the late 1950s. As usual, the lifelines are molded in, so you'll want to put in some time with the razor saw. The set of forwardmost promenade windows are also molded as solid sections, so cleaning that out will require some artistry. The raised deck planking lines are too big, but it's a minor quibble. A rare beauty and a must for liner fans. (JMP)
Editor's Note: Apparently, this kit originally issued as Brasil. The Brasil kit was reviewed by Bill Swan. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit is pretty good for its day. It dates back to about 1957, and it has been in production fairly regularly ever since. It has a detailed, (if not completely accurate) lower hull, unlike some of Revell's earlier kits. Alas, it still has solid plastic railings molded into the hull. Cut them off, and it will look better. Add photo-etched brass railings to taste.
I have long held that the kit represents the ship after her 1929-30 refit, not as she appeared on 7 December 1941. I cite as evidence the following:
That said, there is a problem with my theory: the kit has splinter shields for the 5-inch guns. I'm not sure exactly when these were added, but it was probably some time in the late 1930s.
Apparently, there was at least one motorized version, kit H-398, issued circa 1960. (DRW), updated March 2009.
UPDATE: The kit represents Arizona as sunk. However, the aircraft provided in the kit are from the mid-30s. Also the kit has two sets of four searchlights, which is wrong. The four searchlight initially located around the funnel were relocated to a platform on the mainmast and replaced by AA marchine guns. Apart from that, the kit is extremely accurate for its age. (JPB)
UPDATE: With all the attention on Pearl Harbor, this kit is guaranteed to enjoy a renaissance. The kit, though really well done in its time and is basically accurate in shape, has some easily corrected flaws. The lower hull below the waterline at the stern is completely wrong. Paul Stilwell's "Battleship Arizona: An Illustrated History, shows a more chubby bottom without the compound curve seen on the kit. Plenty of putty, applied in thin layers and allowed to dry thoroughly between layers will correct this giving the hull its properly rounded shape. The propellers are horrible and should be replaced. The 5 inch deck guns and .50 caliber machineguns in the birdbath look pretty crude. To clean up the hull, builders should drill out the hull portholes then sand off the porthole rings for a more accurate porthole appearance. I wholeheartedly recommend Gold Medal Models brass fitting set to complete this kit. If the builder wishes to show the kit as she appeared at Pearl Harbor on December 7th, 1941, the brass set is a must.
The ship appeared in overall "Light Grey 5-L FS 36320" after her last major refit. The builder wanting to complete her as she appeared in the 1930s should paint her in this color scheme. Testors Model Master FS 36320 is a perfect match but appears very light at this scale. I recommend Testors Model Master "Neutral Grey FS 36270" which looks a tad darker and gives a better scale appearance.
On the day of her destruction, the ship was painted in Measure (Ms) 1 Dark Grey System meaning that all vertical surfaces were painted "Dark Grey 5-D" below the funnel top. Testors Model Master "FS Blue FS 35109" is a good approximation of that bluish dark grey. Unfortunately for modelers, the darker the color, the less visible will be the detail so keep this in mind if choosing Ms 1. All vertical surfaces above the funnel tops were painted "Light Grey 5-L FS 36320". At this scale, FS 36320 appears too light. As above, I recommend Testors Model Master "Neutral Grey FS 36270" instead. The metal decks should be painted "Deck Blue 20-B FS 35042". Testors Model Master "Flat Sea Blue FS 35042" is a perfect color match but appears dark at this scale.
For those wanting better proportionality of the thickness of the many superstructure decks, I recommend replacing all superstructure decks with thin sheet styrene for a thinner deck appearance. The kit's boat deck shows no planking however the actual boat deck was planked. And the actual boats rested in cradles, not mounted to the deck as the model shows. Scratch-built cradles are a simple improvement. If the builder wants a real challenge, replace the boat deck, main deck and fantail with scribed sheet styrene.
All-in all, a great model easily improved with some minor surgery and a brass detail set. (SCL)
This model was also reboxed as PENNSYLVANIA. (Brooks)
GOOD. This is a kit that has been around a long time, but wears its age well. In fact, I am still impressed by how well this kit compares to modern ship kits. The detail is very good, in my opinion. Lots of molded-in hull detail, open portholes in ship superstructure and spotting tops made possibly by unique molding method, great turret details, nice boats and anchors. Secondary casement-mounted 5" guns train in mountings, main 14" gun turrets rotate and guns elevate, main cranes swivel. Aircraft are biplanes (Curtiss?), not the Kingfishers of later use.
The hull is a departure from earlier Revell designs. Not a flat bottom, has four props and shaft detail and rudder.
This is a kit that fairly cries out for modification. Two that quickly come to mind would be backdating the kit to as-built appearance with cage masts and revised gun armament, another would be to build her sister ship, USS Pennsylvania, either original or after her 1931 rebuild with enlarged bridge and turreted AA guns for use as fleet flagship. I built a third modification in addition to my "regular" version, modelling the ship in its present state.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
FAIR. A very basic kit, lacking in detail. Can be built as a waterline or full hull model. I wonder how much one could improve this kit with Skywave weapons sets. At least it doesn't have molded plastic railings. Kit is said to date back to about 1961.(DRW)
FAIR. Lots of detail molded in hull, including boats, rafts, light AA (note aft ones have one barrel less than for'd ones) but, all in all much better than Airfix kit. 2pdrs and main gun barrels are poor, but bridge structure and aircraft are very nice. Only 8 Fairey Fulmars supplied though. (GH)
FAIR. Fit is bad, with noticable gaps in places. Many details, such as ship's boats, are molded on or just an outline. Fair accuracy-wise, though you'll have to make or buy your own Swordfish, since this model has only the 8 Fulmars. The AA guns leave something to be desired, too; buy replacements.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
Editor's Note: Often sold with Tribal Class Destroyer kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A Revell-Geremany kit.
Editor's Notes: Vietnam era high-speed CODOG-powered patrol vessel. The kit dates back to around 1971.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
FAIR. This kit portrays the later units of the Baltimore class, i.e. those with the rounded transom as opposed to those with the flat transom. Since the catapults are present, the kit portrays the ship during World War II, or shortly thereafter.
This mold dates back to about 1954, so its problems are somewhat forgivable. It was originally marketed as USS Los Angeles, CA-135. (kit H-306)
In general, this kit is good above the waterline, with the exception of the molded-into-the-deck 20mm guns and railings.
The 8" guns are pretty good for their day, though they would look better if the rafts were not molded into the sides.
The 5" guns are somewhat problematical, but they can be corrected. They also have rafts molded into the sides, and part of the deck molded into the bottom. It would be better to cut the deck pieces off, and fabricate a new piece of deck out of sheet styrene.
The 40mm guns are reasonable for their day. They are comparable to those on Revell's roughly contemporary Iowa class kit.
As noted above, the 20mm guns are really bad. They are molded into the deck, and not very well. They are actually worse than those on Revell's previous Iowa class. My first instinct is to just eliminate them, but even this solution is rather difficult to implement.
The hull is pretty bad below the waterline. It is another of Revell's infamous flat-bottom boats. Sadly, this is how Revell's ship kits were in the early to mid 1950s.
If you can buy this kit cheaply, you can use it as the starting point for a decent Baltimore class, but you're going to have to work for it.
FAIR. This kits has three really big problems.
First, I have built this kit twice and the 8in guns are always warped just like the two Revell North Carolina battleships I built. I have tried and failed to fix this problem so my two cruisers look like they melted in the Pacific heat! The turrets are not to bad, but suffer from an attempt to mold on the blast bags and life rafts. The front of the turrets should have flat faces like all other U.S. designed turrets. Also the turrets seem to narrow. I applied styrene strip to each side of mine and it looked a lot more correct. I think the height is fine.
The 5 inch mounts suffer from some of the same problems. The molded on rafts need to be replaced as does the molded on deck at the bottom. I believed it should be grating like a catwalk.
The 40mm mounts are very heavy looking as is the catapult. Both should be replaced with PE and WEM or Le Arsenal products.
I like the superstructure for the most part. The seams are a nuisance especially around the aft section and the bridge windows, but correctable.
Second big issue is the molded in 20mm mounts and railings which really detract for the kits. To correct this it may be quicker to make a new deck from styrene. Just cut off all the deck fittings and super glue them to the new deck.
Third is of course the hull. For hull corrections, I suggest throw the Revell hull away and substitute it with Mongram's 1/500 Chicago or Columbus unless somebody comes up with a conversion correction.
This kit has a lot of potential but it has some serious issues and with the scale size of 1/480 it does not really go with anything else so it is a bit of an oddball.
(RDF), review updated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note:Les built the Helena variant. (DRW)
This kit is another that has been around since the fifties. It is the typical Revell "flat bottomed boat", deeper than a waterline model, but not really a full hull either. Kit has neither props or rudders.
POOR. I built this kit because I remembered building it as a kid about 1960. It is a Baltimore class heavy cruiser equipped with 9x8" guns. Helena kept her gun armament while others of her class were converted to the first generation of guided missle cruisers, so in that sense could be considered a Modern Era ship, although the kit comes with two scout planes on catapults, indicating WWII Era.
Builds into a decent-looking, large model. Main turrets turn and guns elevate. I built my model to demonstrate a camo scheme, but doubt if the actual ship was ever painted this way.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note:This kit has been issued at various times as:
It has been re-issued by:
Editor's Note: 17th century armed merchant. This appears to be a Revell-Germany kit.(DRW)
Editor's Note: A reboxing of the various Yorktown class carriers. Can be built as Yorktown, Enterprise, or Hornet.
Kit H-501 is the 1976 Revell US issue, kit 05014 is a recent (2003?) Revell Germany issue. (DRW)
OK. Darwin's ship. The model is the only plastic one I know to be available. I am working on it right now, and even with scratch building and adjustments, it is not very accurate. But, passable. (RND)
POOR. I'd rate it "worse than poor". This doesn't qualify as a scale model. Revell took the 1961 Bounty kit, made some changes to the deck layout and smallboats, and deleted the yards from the mizzen mast to make it barque rigged. About all the real Beagle had in common with Bounty was that both were sailing ships, and both had three masts. The Bounty was a converted collier, with a blunt bow and a full hull, while the Beagle was built from the start as a warship, with much finer lines. This kit is almost as bad at taking a tugboat, adding some torpedo tubes and machine guns, and then selling in a box labaled "PT Boat". (WLM) Review dated 7 December 2007.
Editor's Notes: Kit dates back to about 1966. Older 1960s and 1970s issues are H-328. There may also have been a kit H-330. More recent issues, including the 2005 reissue, are 05458. The kit is said to have 178 parts.(DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit dates back to about 1968. From the pictures I've seen, it does not look like any other Revell freighter I've seen, except for the Da Noli, which portrays the same ship. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I know very little about this one. It's said to be about 15 inches (38 cm) long. The style of the box suggests that it came out in the early 1980s. I'm pretty sure that it's a Revell-Germany kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This seems to be a new Revell-Germany mold, circa 2008.
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Pretty nice overall. Imperfect, but I still like it.
The overall shape of the hull is pretty good, with a nice level of detail for its day. Bilge keels are present, and reasonably subtle. The propellers look a little strange, but can be easily modified. The deck planking is reasonably subtle. The main turrets are more or less correct, although blast bags are not provided. The twin main guns elevate, and the turrets rotate.
Some of the more obvious flaws include:
The flare of the bow is also a little more extreme than I'd like. This can be corrected by narrowing the deck slightly, and securely gluing the hull sides to the narrowed deck.
One thing that others have pointed out to me is that the scale is more like 1/590 than 1/570. I have confirmed this with measurements. The kit was first issued around 1963, as kit H-350. Also see Revell's closely related Tirpitz kit. (DRW)
VERY GOOD. This is possibly my favorite kit ever. Yes is has flaws, but it is the best in this scale by far!
First the cons. The worst is the molded on deck rails. These are not as simple to fix as the ones on the Arizona were. You can't just scribe them and break them off. This is because the main deck fits in behind it. If you make the mistake I did and make the Arizona cut you will have to spend a lot of time filling in the gap left over. It works but it isn't the best method. It is better to only cut off the amount of railing that protrudes above the deck. Sanding the remaining edges looks perfectly fine.
The main turret gun ports are too large. The shape is a little off as are the rangefinders. The guns are too large and too long.
To me the two biggest problems to me was the amidships split deck seam. This is hard to fix. The only way I came up with is to assemble the deck and reinforce it with styrene strips on the bottom to reduce flexing and use filler very converatively.
The bow of the ship It is not the correct shape and the sheer of the hull along the hull, below the waterline, in the area of the two forward turrets is not right. It is a little to fat. Fixing this is virtually impossible as is. Whether or not the bow of the Monogram kit could be grated on is something I personally have not tried but should be considered as the only real alternative. Removing the molded on railings helps the appearance of this a little but it will not actually correct it.
The fit at the bow is poor especially at the anchor hawsers. The anchor chain is very easy to remove and the anchor is easy to modify. The splash shield forward of turret Anton is not shaped correct. It should be vertical, not a triangle. I have not had good luck removing this to date so it might best be left as is. I have almost concluded that to fix all of the deck issue may require the fitting of a new deck.
On the main deck the storage reels for mooring lines and fire hoses are molded in the sides of the superstructure. I suggest cutting them off. If you can scratch build a replacement, great! If not it looks better without them molded on.
The aft secondary Fire Control stations are open mount and should actually be hallow.
The forward Secondary are covered. I found that drilling out the rangefinder and replacing with styrene gave depth and detail to this very plain area.
The Stack has numerous steam vents. There are a few pictures that provide a very detailed view of this. A dremel tool, styrene and PE is a realitvely simple fix.
The search lights are a very interesting item. They come in various sizes. Here they are large enough to drill out the lens area, and then drill a very small hole up through the pedestal to run fiber optics though. Fill the lens with superglue and connect a light source. Your only challenge is hiding the feed to the search light.
The superstructure is missing some important detail at and around the base of the tower. Seen in various references books! The Stack is missing detail near the hangars, especially the hangar doors themselves. See references.
Aft the molded on deck anchor chain is a pain. The fix mentioned for Airfix's Prinz Eugen seems the only real solution unless you are willing to re-scribe the deck. The secondary guns should be thrown away and the molded on bilge keel needs to be sanded off and replaced with styrene strip. There are a lot of reels on the deck that should be replaced with PE or anything better.
Oh, something I forgot to mention. The area of the screws. The center line keel skeg is way too thick and the trunk for the centerline screw is best cut off and replaced with tubing.
The kit scales out to 1/588 for 814 or 1/595 for a length of 823, depending on your sources.
Pros. Just about everything else! The main fire control is great after you replace the antennas with PE. The 37mm and 20 are not bad, just way too few 20's. The Ar-196 is very nice. The 4.1in AA guns are good, but the forward portion is slightly misshaped, it should be pointed forward more at the bottom front. The best solution is stealing with the 4.1 mounts from Airfix Prinz Eugen. Either way the mounts supplied in this kit are still a lot better that the fat ones in the Scharnhorst. If available the ones from the Airfix Prinz Eugen are the absolute best.
The hull shape is great (with the previously mentioned area below the waterline near the forcastle) as is the deck. Drill out various suction and vents on the lower hull to add more detail. Grating over the main ducts really helps.
I absolutely love the cranes. They are so easy to detail.
All in all a kit with very fixable flaws without a lot of effort.
(RDF), review dated 10 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Notes: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. It is thus presumably a re-issue of the Casadio/ ESCI kit. (DRW)
GOOD.
Editor's Note: Same as Buckley class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same as Buckley class. Apparently, it was released as Bligh by Revell-GB in the 1970s, as kit H-434. Kit 05022 is a more recent Revell-Germany release. (DRW)
GOOD. Hull is the same as Prinz Eugen, with full Atlantic bow, but the superstructure is mostly correct for the Blücher. (i.e. It is different from the Prinz Eugen.) Mold dates back to the late 1960s. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD. The bow had some minor details wrong for the the Admiral Hipper. Although not too bad for it's size, I don't like the mold-into-the-deck light AA-guns. (ME)
Michael's got a point about the light AA guns. Torpedoes are molded into the deck too. Forgot about those... (DRW)
FAIR. First released in 1973, this kit is a variant of the 1967 Prinz Eugen (kit H-481) with ship-specific changes for the Blücher. This same altered version of the Prinz Eugen was also issued as the Admiral Hipper (kit H-490) beginning in 1975.
In developing their Blücher kit, Revell made an attempt to update the old Prinz Eugen molds to more accurately reflect Eugen's semi-brother. Changes include a new aft superstructure deck (part 13) wirth a larger hangar and new funnel platforms (parts 16a and 16b). Also, the guns atop the second and third main turrets (part 8) have been deleted. The changes are modest, but they do make the model a little more accurate representation of the Blücher. Aside from the box art and instructions, it is otherwise identical to the Prinz Eugen kit. Blücher has more recently been reissued by Revell Germany (kit 05049). Unfortunately, the molds seem to have degraded over the years; flash is more evident than I remember on the original release, and I also noticed that much of the delicate planking detail on the main deck aft of the last turret is now gone.
(TR) review dated 31 January 2010.
Editor's Note: See notes under Hipper Class.
Editor's Note: Kit hull is about 10 inches long. This seems to be the same as the old Pyro kit.
FAIR. See Essex Class SCB-125. Kit H-384 (Picture Fleet Series) was issued around 1960. Kit H-442 was issued around 1974. (DRW)
GOOD. Derived from the Baltimore kit. The hull is still bad below the waterline, (yet another of Revell's infamous "flat-bottom boats") but it does have the correct, early style flat-transom. Deck, radars, 8" guns, and missiles are all very nice, although the missile directors (Mk 25 mod 7) are correct only for the years immediately following her conversion. The Boston was refitted around 1960 with SPQ-5 directors, which can be obtained from a Revell Long Beach. The 3" guns are a bit clumsy, but acceptable for the day. Molding looks cleaner than the regular Baltimore class. This kit was apparently first issued around 1956, but is long out of production, and is very hard to find. (DRW), last updated 21 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Sold at various times as:
It was also re-issued (as Canberra) by AHM.
Editor's Note: This kit may date back as far as 1956. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on In Box Review)
Note: Revell released their models of the Brasil and Argentina (sister ships) to coincide with the advent of Moore-McCormack Lines ships (box contents, except for decals were identical). These two ships were a really big event at the time, 1957-58, as they represented the most modern types of construction and amenities introduced in an American shipping company. Brasil, was launched at Ingalls Shipbuilding Yard No. 467, Pasagoula, on December 16, 1957. This twin screw, turbine steam passenger liner of 35,000 SHP had accommodations for 553 single class passengers and 401 crew within its 617 foot length. Both sisters were intended for the South American cruise trade and were fully air-conditioned. Brasil was initially registered with U.S. authorities at 14,984 GRT. Rebuilt by Bethlehem in Baltimore in 1963 Brasil received a modest facelift. The kit represents Brasil as initially built. Her GRT went up to 15,257. From this point on Brasil underwent what can only be described as a bewildering array of multiple owners, registrations, lay-ups, transfers and repaintings. She also appeared from the various registrations to have been a Jenny Craig nightmare, zooming from a low of 13,680 GRT to a high of 23,858 GRT and back again. Amazing what those accountants can do to save fees, isn't it? In addition to the creative accounting on her weight and her launch name of Brasil she also went by the names Volendam, Monarch Sun, Volendam again, Island Sun and Liberté. All of this just through 1986!
For the modeler this all adds up to a plus. The rebuilds (extremely modest) and repaintings in different livery create a host of options for the modeler with some time to research the color schemes. You could buy a fleet of these ships and make them into at least five different major paint schemes! However, as this kit has been long out of production I should add a note as to value on the Brasil/Argentina kits. As of this writing the kit is still not in production despite a host of reissues of other old kits by Revell and is available only from old kit vendors and eBay. You can expect to pay anywhere from $40-125 for an example of the kit from these sources.
This is one of Revell's great early kits and I can only hope that somewhere, somehow this model could be reissued.
Kit Parts: The kit is molded in solid, hard white plastic and is comprised of 100 pieces including foil, flag and decal sheets. From stem to stern hull measures out to 19 inches and appears to scale out to 1/390. The model is a full hull with props and rudder and the general hull contours appear to be consistent with drawings and photos I have seen. Molding is crisp with no flash and dry fitting of decks and superstructure parts shows a good tight fit with no readily apparent sloppy joints or mismatched mating surfaces.
In common with other ships of the era and beyond the railings and deck detail are molded in. The railings could be removed with a razor saw or by scribing and replaced with brass. Deck planking is simulated by raised lines and appears to be grossly over scaled (or Ingalls was using redwoods for planks, although, there is some confusion here as to whether or not some sections really aren't supposed to represent wood planking but rather sections of steel plating covered with some sort of no slip), not much can be done with that unless you are willing to sand them all down and rescribe in scale. Also with regard to the decks there are quite a few ejector pin marks that are impossible to remove or disguise without sanding and rescribing the whole deck. The water in the pools is simulated by a molded in wavy surface which actually looks quite good. There is a foil appliqué included to reproduce the shine of the water as well (which if used would eliminate the water texture).
Superstructure/ Deck assembly is of the "wedding cake" type construction so beloved by Revell in the '50s and 60s (and now repeated by Trumpeter in their take on the 1/350th Arizona). Normally I would really hate this but it works on this ship because of the tight fit and the rectangular shapes of the ports, windows and passages that mate together. Loading ports, hatches, etc. are simply holes or blobs on the deck or hull but filling and detailing such are the modeler's lot in life.
The life boat davits (and the boats themselves) appear somewhat out of scale and devoid of detail, but then again when was the last time you ever saw good plastic davits? The ship's boats are split down the middle vertically for assembly and may pose considerable problem retaining the correct shape after fitting and assembly, or maybe not, but my little red flags went up on seeing and handling them.
Directions:: consist of very large exploded view drawings that are, clear and unambiguous. Painting instructions are pretty much ludicrous. You must do your research for an accurate paint scheme!
Packaging: typical Revell boxing of the period with a beautiful painting of the ship on the cover. Plastic parts on sprues with no packing material. Chances are in the collector market at least some of them may have been shaken off and/or broken.
Overall I am really impressed with the look and feel of this model. It is truly evocative of the prototype and time. I would build it right out of the box (except of course to cut that beautiful bottom off for a waterline model) to recapture the full flavor of the era and it would look fantastic. Drill out the port holes, crystal clear every window in sight and pick your favorite paint job and you can have a really great looking 1950s liner! Of course it cannot compare with the new kits being made to the high standards of today but they (and the poor old 1/600 SS United States) are the only game in town when it comes to American passenger ships!
(WJS), review dated 6 March 2008.
Editor's Note: This is the same as the Argentina kit, above, and was actually released as Brasil first; they were sister ships. The prototype still exists as Universe Explorer. Dates back to about 1957 or 1958. See also Jodie Peeler's review of the Argentina.
Editor's Note: I've never seen this kit in or out of the box, but it looks like yet another variant of Revell's old J.L.Hanna kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same kit as the Ward (see below). H-375 kit number matches Hornet, may be incorrect. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Hull is nice, (although bilge keels are missing) and it has decent level of detail. Kit dates back at least to 1961, maybe further. This kit is comparable in many ways to Revell's Forrest Sherman kit, in the style of the hull and the way the superstructure is constructed. Kit H-423 is a "Sea Power Series" box, issued circa 1961. (DRW)
Also sold as Taiwanese TAI CHAO, ex-USS CARTER (which was actually an EVARTS I think). Instead of molded in handrails, there are strips with stanchions intended for you to rig with thread! Deck edges slotted to take the strips. Basis for a good kit; 40mm twin aft instead of the more common 1.1 inch quad. (Brooks)
Editor's Note: Sold at various times as:
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the DML/Dragon kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reworking of Revell Hawaiian Pilot. Interestingly, the real Hawaiian Pilot was a converted military transport. The Burleigh was based on a C3-S-A2 hull.
FAIR/GOOD.
This model was originally issued as the Matson Navigation Company C-3 Type Freighter Hawaiian Pilot. somewhere around 1955. It was reissued in 1961 as the SS Doctor Lykes of the Lykes Lines and a few years later issued as USS Burleigh in her military fit. This particular kit was reissued again as the Burleigh in 1995 and then modestly retooled in 2005 as the Hawaiian Pilot again. There are differences in the various issues. I have built them all from the original Hawaiian Pilot to the new Hawaiian Pilot. I will tell you now, this is a favorite of mine despite its numerous and egregious faults.
Let's start out with the question of scale. The original issues were marketed as being in 1/400 scale, the latest Hawaiian Pilot is being marketed as 1/380. Just go ahead and use it with either your 1/350 or 1/400 collection it really isn't going to make much difference (although, I would probably use the Gold Medal Models 1/400 Merchant ship detail set for the photo etch brass upgrades that this kit needs if I were to do it over again, and I will...). This is one of Revell's infamous flat bottomed boats. The one piece hull is molded down to a point below the waterline and them simply flattened out. The only thing you can do with this ridiculous arrangement is to cut off the bottom at the waterline, which suits me fine as that is all I build anyway. However, full hull builders, this kit is not for you, unless you have the desire to completely reengineer the hull.
In addition to having the hull issue the deck parts are covered with very visible ejection pin markings and huge plate detail as well as deck equipment and many mysterious piles of coiled rope. In between the decks of the superstructure are these ant hills in plastic that you are supposed to stick the support stanchions for each deck into. They have to go, but then, the stanchions will be too short. The ships guns are clunky and over scale. But the really big issue is the molded on railings. Revell put railings made out of solid plastic (no spaces between the lines) everywhere, even where the the areas would have been steel anyway. You will have to cut and sand these things off of everything. When you are done with the superstructure you will need to sand down the edges of the decks or they will appear to be three feet thick. However, when sanding and cutting railings take a good look at original photos of the ship you are attempting to model as some of them had no railings along the main deck, but rather a steel bulkhead roughly the same height as the railings. If that is the case for your ship, simply sand the “railings” detail off of the plastic and you are in good shape. The railings will be a real problem with the area at the bases of the masts and king posts. The guns on the ship are grossly over scale and a bit blobby, best to go with some after market stuff there. Oh, let's not forget the wedding cake superstructure! Each deck is split in the middle (right at porthole height) which makes for a nice line to try to putty and sand. The king posts, cargo booms, cranes or whatever they were trying to portray are minimally detailed. The mold is showing it's age with flash on some parts and soft detail on others.
OK, why do I like this kit? Aside from the old, it feels so good when it stops, there is the final product. When this kit is done, whether super detailed or right out of the box, it looks great! It really looks like it should. Plus, you get the benefit of being able to use it to make passenger freighters from shipping lines around the world with all sorts of different liveries (colors for die hard gray fans). Some shipping companies stripped off the deckhouse for the AA battery and others left The added after most deckhouse has a number of possibly double and single 20 mm guns mounted. What looks like four single 20 mm guns in pedestal mounts are also added to the deck. Whatever they are, they need to go and better ones should be substituted. The aft gun is on some kind of pedestal that would have made it impossible to serve the piece. All of these could have been left off and the holes filled for a civilian version. For some reason they changed the arrangement of the cargo booms and the way they were attached to the ship, this changed arrangement of the booms carries over into the “new” Hawaiian Pilot. In addition to the changed over boom arrangement the locator pins and lines in the deck for the additional pedestals and deck house of the military version are left on the deck of the “new” Hawaiian Pilot. You will need to sand them off where they are not appropriate. Traces of the gigantic mounting holes for the top deck can also be seen.
The Burleigh issue is becoming hard to find but the Hawaiian Pilot is on the shelf of many a hobby shop still. The Hawaiian Pilot version has still another virtue, it is cheap. It is a great starter kit for a newbie to build right out of the box or an old salt can spend months making it look like the real thing.
(WJS), review dated 7 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Apparently, the same as Revell's Eastwind kit, though some have suggested that the kit is incorrect for the Burton Island. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See review under Taney. Kit dates back to around 1956. Pictures show a two-piece hull, split along the keel. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Same kit as the Ward (see below). Kit H-450 was issued circa 1971. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: I have never seen this kit in or out of the box, but presumably, it is the same kit as the Boston.
The Boston kit has the early style Mk 25 mod 7 missile directors which are incorrect for the Canberra. The Boston had the Mk 25 mod 7 directors until about 1960, when they were replaced with SPQ-5s. Canberra got the later SPQ-5s as part of her conversion. Consider raiding a Revell Long Beach kit for a pair of tolerably close SPQ-5s. Also, the Canberra never had the 3 inch/L50 guns on the deck, only the four twins on the towers. (DRW), last updated 21 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Kit dates back at least to 1968, maybe further. H-346 was a 1968 release, H-330 was a 1972 release. Said to be about 14 inches long.
It has been re-issued by:
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)Editor's Note: This kit may date back as far as 1953. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know much about this kit, but it was issued around 1977. Apparently, it's the old Aurora kit. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. (in-box review) This is the Yacht America kit, with the addition of three guns. The kit represents the ship when she was used as part of the Union Navy's blockade fleet.
The Yacht America was sold to Confederate interests just before the start of the American Civil War. She was renamed Memphis, and used as a blockade runner. She was later scuttled in Dunn's Creek, near Palatka, Florida. The ship was found and raised by the Federal navy, and used as part of the blockading fleet, with some success.
The model represents the ship in Union service, when the ship was outfitted with a 12 pound rifle and two 24 pound smoothbores. The guns included with this edition of the kit look to be pretty good- they are civil war era pieces, and there are two different sizes – one smaller one (the 12 pdr) and two larger guns (the 24 pdr guns).
Except for the guns and a new instruction sheet, the kit is the same as the display version of the America kit, the one with the vacuum formed plastic sails. (WLM)
Editor's Note: Bill told me that the kit portrays the ship circa 1861. The kit dates back to about 1974. It is said to be about 24 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I don't know much about this kit, but the pictures I've seen of it show it in a Ceji/Revell box, which suggests that it was issued in the early 1980s. (DRW)
In production in 1997.
EXCELLENT: This is probably the most accurate kit of Old Ironsides ever commercially produced. This kit compares extremely favorably with the Smithsonian Institution Museum of American History's 1/48 scale Constitution built from period plans and exhaustively researched. Surface detail is amazing for a 1970s kit though there is much flash.
The kit is of the ship as she is believed to have appeared during the War of 1812, much different in detail than she appears today or even as first built. Howard I Chapelle, in his reference book The History of The American Sailing Navy shows a drawing of the ship as built between pages 121-122. Her original as-built coloring is reported to have had unpainted all natural wood (brown) sides rather than black. There was also NO white stripe along the gun ports. There were narrow red and blue stripes above the gun deck gun ports. The ship was repainted with her now-familiar black sides and white gun deck stripe at a later date but prior to the War of 1812.
The kit's color scheme as shown on the box cover and in the instructions is not consistent with the Smithsonian model. The Smithsonian model has red bulkheads and gunwales, not the white shown in the kit. Red was commonly seen on American and Royal Navy ships of the period to lessen the psychological affect of bloody decks and bulkheads on the crew. Testors Model Master "British Crimson" is a close match. The white gun deck stripe on the Smithsonian model is buff, not white. Testors Model Master "Radome Tan" is a close match. The ship's boats on the Smithsonian model are uniquely colored, presumably to make them more easily identifiable at sea at a distance. The Smithsonian model's two whale boats suspended at the stern are red and blue. There are five deck boats on the Smithsonian model. The largest and the whale boat stored on top of it are black. The two long boats are white and hunter green. The smallest boat, also a whale boat, is buff, the same color as the hull gun deck strip. The masts are also colored differently on the Smithsonian model. Lower masts are white, upper masts and yards are natural wood.
A builder could modify the kit to show the ship as she now appears but much surgery and scratch building would be required to alter her decorations, gun port lids and gunwales.
The plans are very clear and easy to follow. The parts fit pretty well but be prepared to tape the hull halves tight against the decks until the glue is dry to ensure a snug fit. Many of the yards were warped but can be easily straightened under warm water.
Although the rigging looks to be rather overwhelming, the plans make it easy. The rigging plan compares very favorably to the Smithsonian model in layout and rigging the ship is actually very straight-forward given the miracle of CA glue. I recommend replacing any plastic eyelets, particularly those to be glued to the deck, with metal cotter pins or metal eyes as the kit's plastic eyes will break under the tension of the rigging.
Put your Constitution under glass to protect it from dust, kids and guests too tempted to touch. Mine is in a Plexiglas-sided case made by Gemo Displays and it has survived intact for quite some time and shows no dust contamination which would spoil the appearance. In conclusion, a terrific kit which builds into an impressive model of museum quality looks. (SCL)
Editor's Note: Kit dates back to about 1955, as kit H-319. In production in 1997, as kit 05404. (DRW)
GOOD. Clearly from the same design concept/designer as the Victory kit. Comes in two plastic colors - black hull and guns; light tan masts and deck. Gun deck is open with 'platforms' along inside of hull to mount detailed guns on carriages. I tried and tried to look inside upon completion and never found the lack of an actual gun deck to be apparent. Builds up nicely. Nice engraved hull and copper plating detail. The ratlines are thread glued into the shape, to be cut out and attached to the masts. Vac-form sails, look a bit hollow. Basic rigging instructions, two colors of rigging thread included. As I recall comes with the Andrew Jackson figurehead, not appropriate for Barbary Pirates or War of 1812 eras.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
OK. See Midway Class, below.
OK. Could be built us with a lot of work as the Coral Sea in her final configuration. (Definatly an easier job than converting the Midway to her final appearance) (RDF)
OK. I built the Pine Island kit.
The hull is really bad below the waterline. Draught is clearly too shallow. This may be the worst of Revell's infamous "flat-bottom boats" Waterlining it may be the only solution in this case. (and that's coming from a full hull fanatic!) Plastic railings molded into the hull & decks don't help either. Forward main deck has "steel" panel lines. The forward deck was wood planking on the real thing.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
The Norton Sound kit is a variant, reflecting the fact that she was used as a trials ship for many years. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 36 inches long when complete. The mold dates back at least to 1960 or so. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 15.75 inches long when complete.
GOOD: In box review. It looks like the DML Dallas, since these submarines are simplicity of shape it may not need a lot of detailing to look good. Bonus SH-60B in 1/100 (good companion for the Tamiya 1/100 series). (PC)
Editor's Note: Revell-Germany kit, circa 1991. Said to be 35 cm (13.7 inches) long. Same as kit as Benledi, above, which is only appropriate since apparently they are the same ship. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same kit as Forrest Sherman.
OK.
Representation of the Asheville class gun boats of the 1960s. They were the US Navy's smallest oceangoing surface warships at 166' LOA, 154' LWL, a beam of 23.8' feet and maximum draft of 8'. Powered by a 13,300 shp GE gas turbine, the Ashevilles could achieve 38 knows in service. Armament was an RF (Mark 34) 3 inch/50 forward, a single 40mm Bofors aft and two twin .50-caliber MG amidship on the 01 level. These were relatively simple, determined little vessels.
There is a nice overview of development of the class, plans, and photographs, including one of the USS Definance, in Norman Friedman's U.S. Small Combatants. See pages 263-272.
This review is based on a partial build, I'm about 1/4 of the way into it.
I also obtained copies of the Booklet of Plans in the National Archives, College Park, MD (NARA II) as well as the still photographs available there.
I rate the kit as OK.
The overall dimensions and shapes of the main structures conform to the plans. But it needs some work. The railing is overscale and should be replaced. The mast also is overscale, both in height (a good 1/2") and scantlings. The 3 inch/50 is fairly well done with some nice moulded on detail whereas the Bofors are more simply shaped.
The sides of the superstructure have moulded on firehose and other firefighting equipment, which is nice, but they also have a post and panel structure which was not true for any of the vessels, at least from the dozens of photographs I examined. Best thing to do is sand them all flat, then add back the hoses, ladders, etc.
It is a one piece hull and matches the plans, except the transom is not as plumb as drawn. Props and shafts are good.
Deck features, hatches and various lockers generally are located correctly although lacking in detail.
The most maddening thing is the whole superstructure and mount for the 3 inch/50 is off the centerline by 1/16". Yes, it is noticable. The Bofors is on the centerline.
But the kit has great bones.
I've removed all the moulded on deck features except the twin towing bitts forward and will substitute scratchbuilt lockers, hatches, etc.
I'm moving the forward gun to it's properly place, as well as the superstructure, both pretty minor modifications.
The forward breakwater will be replaced with cardstock.
That, with scale railing and lifelines, and a few other additions will result in a very nice model of a very interesting modern era craft.
Now if we could just get Revell to produce the ships preceeding the Ashevilles in Norm's book: the PGH hydrofoil gunboats!
(DBW), review dated 27 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See Asheville Class.
Editor's Note: Same kit as Hawaiian Pilot. Issued circa 1961.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same kit as the Emden. WARNING: Apparently the Dresden had different machinery and different shafts than the Emden. The Emden kit is correct for the Emden, but I don't know if they corrected it for the Dresden kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: From pictures, it looks like Revell King George V model. Apparently, it was issued around 1975, by Revell-GB. (DRW)
GOOD. Exactly the same kit as K.G.5. there were minor differences between all five of these ships mainly in the radar fit etc. most could be identified by the emergency conning position on the after funnel. These were IMHO, good to excellent kits and only about 50 pence each when I purchased them. although the latest ones purchased here in Australia by esci were about $6 or $7 each. They were supposed to be P.O.W. but in fact had the deck of the K.G.5. (BA)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The kit is said to date back to about 1957. Said to be about 16 inches long when complete. (DRW)
OK. Adequate shape, some detail and fit problems. WWII configuration has a second twin 5"/38 aft; this version has a flight deck and a reasonably nice multi-part helo (two hollow fuselage halves, allowing actual holes for the windows.) Also sold erroneously as _Burton Island_ which was noticeably a different class of icebreaker. (Brooks)
GOOD. Also issued by Revell (and later Advent) as the Burton Island. This is one of the first injection molded plastic ship kits ever made (1956), comparable in quality to the Revell 1/303 Taney and 1/426 Arizona kits released around the same time. Like them it is a "box scale" effort, coming out to about 1/292. The kit depicts the Eastwind as she appeared in the early 1950's with World War II armament still in place but with the addition of a H-19 Chickasaw helicopter.
This is an old kit with the usual annoying features like difficult fit, solid molded railing and slightly overdone raised plank detail, but overall it is a pretty good rendition of a "Wind" class icebreaker. The model originally came in three colors of plastic with white (hull, superstructure) brown (decks, funnel, mast, helicopter) and black (weapons) sprues so the model could be built without painting. Later releases were either overall white or gray.
The outline of the ship is dead on, and there is a good deal of sharply molded detail on the surfaces such as w/t doors, ladders, hatches, even a gangplank and some nicely rendered CO2 bottles. I especially liked the addition of a few open doors and the completely opened up portholes. The helo is also nice, a little kit unto itself. The only place the kit really falls down is the weapons which are recognizable but definitely on the crude side (the twin 5"/38 mount even lacking one of the facets). The 40mm quad and 20mm singles could be replaced with better ones from HR Products, and Gold Medal Models has a photoetch set specifically designed for this kit which would improve it immensely.
The kit is accurate for Eastwind as is, but if you plan to build it as the Burton Island the armament needs to be adjusted:
In the 1960s all weapons on both ships were removed, so you could always go that route! Otherwise the kit is accurate for the Burton Island as well as the Eastwind. In fact, with minor adjustments any of the seven sisters (Eastwind, Westwind, Northwind, Southwind, Edisto, Staten Island, Burton Island) of the class could be made from it.
This is not a bad kit, especially considering that it is 50 years old! (TR) Review dated 19 April 2006
Editor's Note: Originally issued around 1956.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Overall, I'd say it's pretty darn good. There are a couple of nit-picky things that could be problems, (lack of "planking" on the upper decks, possibly incorrect ladders on the main mast), but nothing I'd lose much sleep over. I was a little disappointed in the guns, but even they are reasonably OK. In general, I'm just thrilled to death that they did this kit at all! (DRW)
Editor's Note: From pictures, it looks like an Elizabethan era caravel rigged ship. Said to be 30 inches (76 cm) long when complete. Issued circa 1974. (DRW)
GOOD. I really like the hull and the flight deck on this kit, but the .50 cal (or are they supposed to be 20mm?) along the edge of the flight deck are truly awful. Mostly the same kit as the Yorktown & Hornet, although those two don't have the bad light AA guns. Kit dates back to about 1967. (DRW)
GOOD Nautilus makes an excellent, but expensive, island replacement. Scratch building a full hangar deck would be a lot of work, but would really make for an incredible model. (RDF)
Editor's Note: This kit has been re-issued by
FAIR. This kit is different from the Yorktown/Hornet version in that you can place one of the elevators in the down position, it has more AA guns on the deck and of course it does not have any B25's. (JF)
FAIR. Hull has no details molded on it, even anchors are missing. Aft elevator is put down, and there is a place for aircraft on it. All the aircraft is of one type resembling SBD Dauntless. The number of supplied aircraft is greater than the number of holes in the deck and hangars to place the aircraft to. All the guns are molded on the flight deck, island superstructure is very brief on details. Light AA guns are molded badly, even for 1/1200 scale.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006. Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the old Aurora Enterprise kit. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. The only detail they got wrong is that the kit includes the never-installed Terrier missiles. It represents the ship as originally built. Can be built as waterline or full hull model. Quite impressive for a '60s vintage kit, and it still holds up well today. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit represents an unmodified Essex class in World War II. The kit dates back at least to 1967.
This kit has been released at various times as
It has also been released under the Matchbox and Advent brand names.For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Many Essex class carriers received two major upgrades in the 1950s: SCB-27 and SCB-125. SCB-125 included the angle deck and the enclosed bow.
FAIR. The fit is poor, but you can turn this one into something nice.
I believe that this kit was meant to represent the Essex herself, circa 1957, after her SCB-125 conversion. The kit is thus most accurate for those ships which got the "basic" SCB-125 CVS conversion: (kept the old H-8 catapults, no bridle catchers, rectangular centerline elevator) Essex, Yorktown, Hornet, Randolph, Wasp, Bennington, and Kearsage.
There are some minor problems with the hull: It is too narrow, and there are no bilge keels, The kit does not have the correct bulb bow, but this can be fixed with putty. The propellers are not pitched, which is a minor problem. The 5-inch guns are not very detailed.
Still, I can't help but like this old kit. It dates back to about 1957, so many of its flaws are forgivable. As Jodie correctly points out, (word of advice: Don't argue with Jodie about Essex class, unless you've got really good evidence. She really know her stuff!) this is a very flexible kit, and you can make lots of interesting variants out of it. It's readily available, and relatively inexpensive. Some simple modifications can make it much better than it would be straight out of the box.
This kit has been issued with a number of different aircraft sets over the years, such as
FAIR. Appears to be based on Essex just after SCB-125 modernization, so for other units you'll have to make other changes as needed. It's nicely detailed and for 1957 the kit was a real achievement.
The bad news is that below the waterline the hull is too blunt and chunky, and the waterline's engraved too low; cut the hull at the kit's waterline and the model will look like the ship's riding seriously high. The good news is that if you remove the lower hull at the correct point, you can fix the hull's most serious dimensional errors. It's also worth taking time to reshape the bow and sharpen the prow so it's nice and sleek instead of the as-molded blunt edge.
Cut off all molded-in railings at hangar deck level and glue in a hangar deck cut to the correct width, then pull the sides of the hull out to meet the hangar deck edge; that'll fix the mild deficiency in hull width. When you cut the lower mounting lip off the side pieces of the hangar deck, you will be able to install them on the new hangar deck in a way that will let everything line up; among other benefits, it lets you cure the notorious "escalator underhang" beneath the island. The stacked decks on the stern look nothing like the real thing, so plan to replace those as well. The gun positions should be surrounded by steel plate, not railing, so sand the raised railing detail off those parts. If the ship you're building has the gun sponson on the stern you'll really want to beef that up, since the kit's molded-in sponson is scrawny.
The island itself is about 3/16" too tall and the added height is tricky to excise, since it's midway up the structure. Between that and the awful representation of the enclosed bridges (not to mention how many bridge configurations existed among individual units of the class), it's better to replace the island with one of the resin or 3D-printed units now available. Primary and secondary armament look nothing like the real thing, nor do the Mk 56 directors, so find some replacements for all of that, too.
Aircraft generally look the part, though comparison to scale drawings may yield dimensional surprises (the SH-3s in the ASW issues need a lot of help). By mixing and matching aircraft among various Revell box-scale carrier kits you should be able to assemble just about any air wing these ships carried through their service lives. Be wary of serious flash, voids/sinkmarks and mold misalignment on the aircraft in newer issues of this kit.
It sounds like a lot of work, but this kit will reward you for the effort you put into it. Several aftermarket suppliers offer weapons, sensors, decals, photoetch, and other accessories; there's also an excellent supply of references, and Booklet of General Plans drawings are readily available for several different ships. This kit is old but it's genuinely beloved; building one will help you understand these versatile carriers better, and you can turn out a beautiful model with a little work. This kit is worth it.
(JMP), review updated 9 March 2017.
FAIR. The addition of a hanger deck behind the elevator doors would be a great addition.
A second choice would be the conversion to an ASW Carrier.
Third, Amphibious Assault carrier.
Fourth, and by for this is the most unique, to a Light Carrier (during the Reagan Administration it was considered an ideal to take the Bon Homme Richard, Oriskany, and the ??????, modernizing them and equipping them with two squadrons of F/A 18s, 6 S-3 Vikings, 4 SH-2 Helos, 4 EA-6Bs, 2 E-2 Hawkeyes, and 2 C-2 Greyhound. (RDF)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
and maybe others!
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: Revell-Germany re-issue of the Skywave/DML Type 42. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued by Revell-Germany circa 1989. Said to be about 21 inches (53 cm) long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 265 parts. Kit dates back to about 1962. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 1971. See Tom Dougherty's review under Lionfish. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2009. It appears to be an early "Round Bridge" Fletcher. It looks like the work of Revell-Germany. (DRW)
FAIR. This kit dates back to at least 1954, so many of its faults are forgivable.
The kit portrays later "square bridge" Fletcher class. The kit was originally issued as USS The Sullivans (DD-537), which was a "square bridge" ship. It was also issed as Fletcher and Radford, which were early "Round bridge" ships. You should also note that the kit portrays a ship with the late-war anti-kamikaze refit, which DD-537 did have. Numerous Fletcher-class (including the USS Kidd (DD-661) and USS The Sullivans) remained in this configuration into the 1950s.
Detail is minimal. The molded plastic railings are unimpressive, and are best removed. The Mk 37 gun director on the bridge looks particularly bad. The 40mm guns don't look that good either.
The hull is poor below the waterline; not quite a "true" Revell "flat-bottom boat" but almost. The edges of the flat bottom are rounded, but they don't match the curves of a real Fletcher. There are no bilge keels. It has a small, incorrectly shaped rudder.
Kit H-305 was the first issue of this kit, as USS The Sullivans, in 1954. Kit H-371 (Fletcher) was a 1960 "Picture Fleet" issue. This kit has been issued at various times as:
Also sold as "DDE" with B 5 inch mount replaced by a "trainable Hedgehog" on a bogus round platform (moving) with molded deck rails. Some recent reissues have this as an optional part. (Brooks)
Editor's Notes: Reissue of the DML Atlanta-class. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD. This kit dates back to 1957. Considering the age of the kit, it is fairly accurate, compared to the drawings in William Crothers' American Clipper Ships book. (An excellent reference on US Clipper Ships.)
The 1957 box does not mention a scale. Using the dimensions in Crothers' book, the model scales out to 1/231 scale.
Hull has slightly over-done plank and copper plating detail, perhaps, but not too bad. The hull has the pinrails molded on the inside of the hull, they can't be used to secure lines to.
Deck planking is similarly a little overdone, worst part is that it has coils of rope molded in on the deck-no clipper captain worth his salt would have allowed such a lubberly mess. Masts and yards are appropriately sized, but mine were out of round because of mold mis-alignment.
My 1957 edition of the kit had the plastic coated thread style of ratlines- the same as those used in the big 1/96 scale kits. Sometime in the early 1970s, I think, Revell went with molded plastic parts for the ratlines in the smaller sailing ship kits. These molded ratlines have a much heavier, clunkier look.
Kit includes the standard vac-formed sails. My kit included two spools of thread- one tan and one black. The rigging diagram was reasonably detailed for the scale- both a simple version and a more accurate option for rigging are available.(WLM)
Editor's Note: An 1849 clipper. The kit is said to be about 12 inches long when complete. I've seen some others suggest that the kit may date back as far as 1954, when it was released as H-415. I'm reluctant to dispute Bill, though, as he almost certainly knows the subject better than I do......
In addition to the various Revell releases, was also issued under the Advent label once. (DRW)
GOOD. The 1950's USN destroyer. It's not perfect, but all the basics are there. Hull is good, although the bilge keels are missing. 5" guns are particularly nice. Superstructure detail is pretty good too. My only real complaint about this kit is that it has those classic Revell molded-into-the-deck railings. As with other Revell kits, these can and should be removed with a sharp hobby knife. This kit was initially issued around 1958, but it has been out of production for many years. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit would be very GOOD or EXCELLENT if it were not for the molded on railings. Overall the kits repersents this class very well.
The hull and deck are very nice and the 5in mounts are nothing short of perfect. The only areas of concern are the molded on railings, the 3in mounts and the bridge is a little lacking in detail as is the area around the funnels, but there is no other kit of this class ship in this large of scale.
These ships were used in numerious configurations. Several are either in a hold status or are actually preserved as memorials.
Note: Three of these ships were selected as the very first guided missile escort ships. The USS Decatur being the first ship designated. This kit provides an excellent foundation to build this conversion. It could be a challenge due to the extra structures and equipment required especially aft. If you do not scratch build the new equipment you will need to steal the following parts:
Norman Freidman's "US Destroyers: an Illustrated Design History" and Michael Potter's "Electronic Greyhounds" are good references. Another idea is to build the USS Hull, Test bed for the Mk71 MCLG. The only modification is of course scratch building the 1/300 scale Mk71 8"/55cal gun mount.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
It has been re-issued by AHM and Atlantis.
GOOD. This kit has some flaws, but it's still probably the best Forrestal kit ever. The kit was originally issued around 1956. Kits from that era, and re-issues up to the 1970s represent the ship as she was built. As such, it's pretty good, missing only the bulb bow, bilge keels, and a few other small details. In 1989, the mold was updated to represent the Forrestal & Saratoga after their SLEP refit. Sadly, it was not possible to reproduce the modernized ship exactly, and some details are missing or incorrect. The lack of a port-side flight deck extention is particularly obvious. The inaccuracies on the mainmast are also fairly obvious. The upgraded planes and Phalanx guns are very nice though. This kit can be made into an excellent Forrestal class model with some work.
Aircraft on the original include 4 A3D (A-3) Skywarriors, 4 FJ Furies, 4 F7U Cutlasses, 4 F2H Banshees. Aircraft on the updated version include 4 F-14 Tomcats, 4 F-18 Hornets, a pair of S-3 Vikings, and 4 A-6 Intruder/Prowlers.
Kit H-339 is the old version, kit 5022 is the updated version. The updated version is in production as of 1997. (DRW)
GOOD. I have built this kit several times over the yers, along with the Independence, Ranger and Saratoga. All of these kits went togother quite well. Seams where the deck joins with the sponsons for the Mk42 gun mounts being the only serious issue. The island was never a particularly grand feature. The windows are not the easiest to portray and the detail for the numerous antennas is lacking. Thankfully GMM producdes an excellent brass photoetch for this kit and corrects many errors.
The hull is nothing short of beautiful. The only REAL error is the bow and lack of bilge keels which are both corrected very easily.
The flight deck is very nice. There are no blast deflectors to mention. There are four small squares that project up where these would go. The catwalks along the edge do distract a little, but at this scale it is hard to do much about it. The UHF and VHF antennas are out of scale and should be replaced
Now the bad part, the planes. They are as a group, not very good. Steal as many F-4s as you can from a Oriskany, Bon Homme Richard or Essex. I do not know if there are any suitable after market planes unless Matt Stein Models has something out.
As David mentioned, the kit was updated and has been re-issued. The quality of the aircraft is a nice feature as is some of the weapon mounts, but all in all the major hull changes were not correctly repersented. The original kit is more accurate.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Italeri Forrestal kit. I'm not sure that Revell issued this kit as any ship other than the Saratoga. (DRW)
This kit has been issued as:
See Essex Class. (unmodified)
Editor's Note: 3 masted. Kit dates from about 1970. Kit measures about 28.5 inches long and 25 inches high when complete. (DRW)
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2006. (DRW)
GOOD. This is a very obscure release which fetches high prices on auction sites. As with other 1/300 Revell kits, includes separate molded railings which should be substituted with PE. Detail is quite nice. However, motors for the cables supporting the large suction dredger, which hangs over the side of the ship while in use) were left off and should be added. This is one of very few commercial ships available and the only one in large size of a dredger. (DH)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 40 cm (15.75 inches) long. A Revell-Germany kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This one seems to be a Revell-Germany kit. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Good-not-great molding, details for the RAM-equipped variant. [I built the Type 143 non-RAM some years ago.]
Editor's Note: I've never seen this kit in or out of the box, but it looks like yet another variant of Revell's old J.L. Hanna kit. Issued circa 2003-2004. (DRW)
GOOD. Mostly the same kit as the Scharnhorst, but with a few different pieces. Three of the four sprues are identical to those on the Scharnhorst kit, and the fourth differs only slightly. The Gneisenau kit has a shorter mainmast (part 60) and support piece (part 59), which is appropriate for mounting on the funnel. The funnel cap (part 41) has mounting points for the mainmast. The Gneisenau kit has an extra aircraft (parts 35 & 36) and an extra catapult, (part 56) which is mounted on top of Turret Caesar. The Gneisenau kit has no torpedo tubes. (part 66 on Scharnhorst) The aft gun director (parts 57 & 58) is slightly shorter, and has a crosspiece on top of it.
The problem with this kit is that it doesn't seem to correctly represent the Gneisenau at any given time. It's probably closest to her appearance between May 1939 and March 1940, after the clipper bow was added, and after the hawsepipes were moved. For this configuration, you must remove the hangar from parts 32 & 34 and fabricate a support piece for the forward catapult. The catapult on Turret Caesar was removed in March of 1940. By the time of Operation Cerberus in February 1942, she did have a hangar, but it was slightly different from that on the Scharnhorst. The hangar on the kit is identical to that on the Revell Scharnhorst kit.
Note that kit 05043 is the latest (2002-ish) Revell-Germany issue of this kit. Kit 5043 is an earlier Revell-Germany release circa 1984. The 1984 issue is the oldest one I could find, so it may be the first issue as Gneisenau. If there is an older, US issued kit, it may have an "H" series kit number. (DRW)
GOOD. To me this model looks too much like an assembled model kit. Tamiya's 1/700 version looks like a ship in miniature vs an assembled kit. (Brooks)
EXCELLENT. This is same kit as Scharnhorst with the exception of the catapult and mast arrangement and a few other part changes, otherwise the review for the Scharnhorst applies.
To build a true Gneisenau you have to take this kit ot one of the three next steps: Convert it to the straight stem (early) hull, planned 15in gun conversion or final status, Scuttled.
Editor's Note: And indeed I've been working on exactly this conversion, although I started with a Scharnhorst kit, since I believe that the superstructure is closer to the plan for the refitted Gniesenau. My construction methods are a bit different from Randy's too. There's more than one way to refit a battlecruiser! (DRW)
(RDF), review updated 6 January 2009.
FAIR. This is exactly the same kit as Scharnhorst. The only difference is water pictures again. Thus, many inaccuracies. (AS)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. It is thus presumably a re-issue of the Casadio/ESCI (DRW)
Editor's Note: Probably the same as Eagle. Kit is said to be 39.2 cm (about 15.5 inches) long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Graf Spee, circa 1988. (DRW)
GOOD. Quite detailed model, although some parts need a bit of work until they look as they should do. It has some fit problems as many other Revell ships have (like the hull and forward deck). It shows the Graf Zeppelin as it would look like based on the 1942 plans. The included aircraft don't look good at all, so they should be better replaced. (ME)
FAIR/GOOD. This one's a real contradiction. The hull is very nice indeed, but many of the details are really bad. The 150mm casemate guns are much too small, and the 37mm AA guns are too thick. The 105mm guns are pretty good, though. The antennae are clumsy and heavy. Michael isn't kidding about the aircraft. The Me-109Ts are pretty atrocious. The Ju-87Cs aren't as bad, but they're still nothing to write home about. I replaced mine with a nice set from White Ensign Models. With the exception of the aircraft, most of these problems can be fixed relatively easily, but for this price, we shouldn't have to. This kit is a starting point to a good model, but you're going to have to work at it. (DRW)
I've just finished building the model and I can make a few observations, for what it's worth. I used the Schiffer book on the Graf Zeppelin as my prime reference as I have almost nothing on the German Navy from WW II. If that book was wrong then so was I.
GOOD. Possible versions are 1). W/o Casemate Guns (this would have been the final configuration if actually finished. 2) Peter Strasser. (RDF)
Editor's Note: Said to be 22 inches long when completed. It may be a Revell-US kit, dating back to 1963. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same kit as Lionfish
Editor's Note: Said to be 13 inches long when completed. Kit dates back to at least 1965. Vacuformed sails. (DRW)
Editor's Note: A collection of kits, circa 1956, including the following:
Apparently, it was issued in conjunction with the TV series "Navy Log". Revell-Germany apparently plans a 2006 reissue. (DRW)
GOOD. See Monogram Leahy, above.
Editor's Note: Kit dates back to at least 1955. Pictures indicate that it was molded in red. Apparently, this kit was later re-issued in militarized form as Mission Capistrano, with a few guns added. (DRW)
This kit has been issued at various times as:
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
The kit would appear to depict this ship in the mid to late 1950s. The decals identify it as being from London. I certainly can't verify either of those propositions from the materials provided. This is yet another reissue (2001 according to the date in the directions) of an ancient Revell kit. The scale of the kit is approximate at best. The figures included in the kit would seem to be somewhere between 1/90-1/100 but the same figures have made their appearance in the 1/70 Thermopylae, the 1/96 Constitution and 1/96 Kearsarge, so let's settle on 1/96. At any rate you could use it in an HO trainscape without too much problem either. The kit is molded in what used to be called fire engine red. Included with the all plastic parts is a sheet of decals for the name of the vessel. The hull is a one piece molding up to the main deck. The hull and main deck parts are smooth with no detail molding apparent. Many of the parts in my kit showed pronounced ejection pin marks in exposed places and sink holes. The crew all had cannon ball sized holes in their backs. Dry fitting some of the parts leads me to conclude that I should immediately run out and buy stock in a putty company. Even though the decks and hull appear smooth and featureless the rest of the parts have a great deal of detail molded in. The basic parts are there to create a 1950s tugboat but it will require a whole lot of work to make this a good looking model. While not as flashy as some of Revells recent reissues the mold is showing its age.
Directions and packaging: flimsy but well decorated box with all parts shoved into a single bag. The drawings in the directions are more than good enough to assemble the parts given but won't be any help with detailing the ship. As usual the devil will be in the details.
(WJS), review dated 7 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of Taurus, below.
GOOD. The most recent re-issue has some sink marks, and the molded-into-the-hull railings should probably be cut off, but otherwise, a nice kit. This kit dates back to around 1955. Re-issued under the SSP program in 1996.
FAIR-GOOD.
This model was originally issued as the Matson Navigation Company C-3 Type Freighter Hawaiian Pilot somewhere around 1955. It was reissued in 1961 as the SS Doctor Lykes of the Lykes Lines and a few years later issued as USS Burleigh in her military fit. This particular kit was reissued again in 2005 as the Hawaiian Pilot. There are differences in the various issues. I have built them all from the original Hawaiian Pilot to the new Hawaiian Pilot. I will tell you now, this is a favorite of mine despite its numerous and egregious faults.
Let's start out with the question of scale. The original issues were marketed as being in 1/400 scale, the latest Hawaiian Pilot is being marketed as 1/380. Just go ahead and use it with either your 1/350 or 1/400 collection it really isn't going to make much difference (although, I would probably use the Gold Medal Models 1/400 Merchant ship detail set for the photo etch brass upgrades that this kit needs if I were to do it over again, and I will...). This is one of Revell's infamous flat bottomed boats. The one piece hull is molded down to a point below the waterline and them simply flattened out. The only thing you can do with this ridiculous arrangement is to cut off the bottom at the waterline, which suits me fine as that is all I build anyway. However, full hull builders, this kit is not for you, unless you have the desire to completely reengineer the hull.
In addition to having the hull issue the deck parts are covered with very visible ejection pin markings (kind of like huge manhole covers recessed into the deck) and huge plate detail as well as deck equipment and many mysterious piles of coiled rope. In between the decks of the superstructure are these ant hills in plastic that you are supposed to stick the support stanchions for each deck into. They have to go, but then, the stanchions will be too short. But the really big issue is the molded on railings. Revell put railings made out of solid plastic (no spaces between the lines) everywhere, even where the the areas would have been steel anyway. You will have to cut and sand these things off of everything. When you are done with the superstructure you will need to sand down the edges of the decks or they will appear to be three feet thick. However, when sanding and cutting railings take a good look at original photos of the ship your are attempting to model as some of them had no railings along the main deck, but rather a steel bulkhead roughly the same height as the railings. If that is the case for your ship, simply sand the “railings” detail off of the plastic and you are in good shape. The railings will be a real problem with the area at the bases of the masts and king posts. Oh, let's not forget the wedding cake superstructure! Each deck is split in the middle (right at porthole height) which makes for a nice line to try to putty and sand. The king posts, spars, cranes or whatever they were trying to portray are minimally detailed. The mold is showing it's age with flash on some parts and soft detail on others.
OK, why do I like this kit? Aside from the old, it feels so good when it stops, there is the final product. When this kit is done, whether super detailed or right out of the box, it looks great! It really looks like it should. Plus, you get the benefit of being able to use it to make passenger freighters from shipping lines around the world with all sorts of different liveries (bright colors for die hard gray fans). Just look around to find the variety you like.
Now to the differences between this kit, the original issues and the new Hawaiian Pilot from 2006. Hawaiian Pilot and Doctor Lykes in their original format were identical except for decals and paint schemes in the directions, which, by the way, are OK as long as you aren't trying to rig the ship in a realistic manner. Forget the painting suggestions in any iteration-sources, sources, sources. The Burleigh retool added several small deck houses and structures to the ship along with some gigantic holes in the deck to mount the AA battery of the uppermost deck on the superstructure (also, decals reflect the military designation). For some reason they changed the arrangement of the cargo booms and the way they were attached to the ship, this changed arrangement of the booms carries over into the "new" Hawaiian Pilot. In addition to the changed over boom arrangement the locator pins and lines in the deck for the additional pedestals and deck house of the military version are left on the deck of the “new” Hawaiian Pilot. You will need to sand them off where they are not appropriate. Traces of the gigantic mounting holes for the top deck can also be seen.
The Burleigh issue is becoming hard to find but the Hawaiian Pilot is on the shelf of many a hobby shop still. The Hawaiian Pilot version has still another virtue, it is cheap. It is a great starter kit for a newbie to build right out of the box or an old salt can spend months making it look like the real thing.
(WJS), review dated 7 April 2008.
GOOD. I have bought three of these kit and all were quite nice. Some of the moldings are a little thick, especially the railings. While passable, they should all be removed. I like the detail overall and the kit provides the basis for numerous projects due to the extensive use the design gave. In fact some were still in use in the late 70's.
Revell used this kit to produce several other kits as well and since the ship owes so much to the Vicotry ships built, conversion is possible.
Another interesting conversion is to use this kit as a basis to build a late World War II CVE. The hull is very similar and would not require an extensive amount of corrections. Mostly building up the sides and flight deck. As for aircraft in this scale, they are abundantly available with all of the 1/350 carriers on the market. A further note is that these ships served with various navies around the world after the war which gives the modeler a large number of choices for their particular interest.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Note: There were apparently two versions of this kit: the original civilian version and a later militarized version (APA). This kit has been issued at various times as:
Revell Germany re-issued this kit as the Hawaiian Pilot in 2005, as kit 05236.
We had earlier believed that Montrose and Randall were related to this mold. Bill Swan proved to me that this is not the case. They are made from an unrelated mold (DRW)
FAIR. See Baltimore Class, above.
Editor's Note: A 1/25 kit, intended for display with 1/25 model cars. Originally issued circa 1971, re-issued circa 1994. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same as Revell's Polaris kit. This is not the same as the Renwal kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Same kit as Blücher Hull is the same as Prinz Eugen, with full curved clipper bow. The Hipper had a shorter, straighter clipper bow. Kit dates back at least to 1975, possibly further. (DRW)
FAIR. First released in 1975, this kit is the same plastic as the 1973 Blücher (kit H-480), which is itself a variant of the 1967 Prinz Eugen (kit H-481). Though not entirely correct for the Hipper (it still lacks the correct bow, for example), the changes made to the Prinz Eugen kit for the Blücher (altered AA, new funnel platforms and enlarged hangar) do make the kit a somewhat better representation of the Hipper also. The Admiral Hipper kit has most recently been issued by Revell Germany, for some reason appearing under the Matchbox label.
(TR) review dated 31 January 2010.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
Editor's Note: I reliably informed that is the same kit as Haven. That would make the whole kit inaccurate, since the Haven is of a different class. I'm not completely sure of the kit number either, since it's the same number as Revell's Prince of Wales kit. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Mostly the same kit as Yorktown, CV-5. Kit dates back to about 1967. Some issues (including 1987 issue, kit 5223) have a set of B-25s for the Doolittle Raid. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
FAIR. As with many of the Revell Germany 1/1200 line, Hornet is a repop of an old molding released variously over the years by Casadio, Almark, ESCI, MPC, and probably others. This toy/model from the early 1970s is very simplified, snap-together affair designed for quick building. Interestingly, the kit was designed to be issued as Hornet's near-sisters Enterprise and Yorktown as well. As a result, there were a number of differences in each release such as alternate i airplanes, armament, different islands, even differently positioned elevators. The present issue has a mix of features from all three sisters, and so is not technically correct for any one ship. Hull shape is only generally accurate, with an ugly blunt bow that looks more like that of a tanker than a sleek aircraft carrier. The decals included by Revell include outrageously wide yellow lines for the flight deck and an overlarge "HORNET" name in white letters for the stern.
Still, the kit has some fun features. I liked the full hangar deck and open side doors. There are even carrier planes to place inside which can just be seen through the doors. I also liked the deckload of tiny B-25s. And it really does snap together just about as fast as you can tear the parts from the trees...
The aircraft included are very small, and unfortunately very crude as well. The B-25s are just discernable as such, and the smaller carrier planes are unrecognizable as any specific type. They attach to the deck with large pegs which fit into corresponding holes in the hangar and flight decks. Fortunately they are so miniscule they don't look too bad once painted and in place.
Parts have a good deal of flash; lotsa trimming with the x-acto. The flight deck has to be coaxed to snap down on to the hull, but the island fits fairly well once the locator blobs on the bottom are sanded flat. Boats, crane, and masts, though basic, go on without difficulty. There are many inaccuracies in the kit, but if you look past the 40mm quads (never carried by Hornet), missing 20mm mounts, incorrect boat arrangements and other discrepancies, this inexpensive little model can still be a lot of fun. (TR) Review dated 26 January 2006
FAIR. See Essex Class SCB-125. Sometimes found in the "Hornet +3" box, with Apollo recovery aircraft set. Kit 5003 issued circa 1981. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Reissue of the DML kit. Distributed by Revell-Germany. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Vittorio Veneto. One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
Re-issue of the Skywave/DML kit.
Same kit as Forrestal. Only the earlier pre-modernization kit was issued with markings for the Independence. The forward gun sponsons, which are correct for Forrestal Saratoga, and Ranger, are wrong for the Independence. The sponsons should be rounded on the Independence. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under Essex Class. (unmodified) (DRW)
FAIR. This kit builds a straight-deck Essex class carrier as it would have appeared late in WWII. The hull looks to be a bit short in depth, and has incorrect dual rudder arrangement.
Prototype uses single, centered rudder. Rest of model appears OK for size. Aircraft are Hellcats and Helldivers.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Reissue of the DML kit. Distributed by Revell-Germany. (DRW)
OK. I forgive many of this kits sins, as it was probably the first plastic ship kit ever. It was originally issued as the Missouri in 1953. The hull is really terrible below the waterline. It is, alas, the mother of all Revell's flat-bottom boats. The propellers are completely missing, and there is only one (misshapen) rudder instead of the correct two. Revell made no effort to represent the "twin skeg" keel/shaft arrangement. While the hull can be at least partially corrected, it is a rather difficult exercise. I hate the molded-into-the-deck 20mm guns.
On the plus side, the 40mm guns are nice, the 16 inchers are pretty good (except for the "ears" on the turrets) and the 5 inch guns aren't bad. The bridge and superstructure are reasonable. Unlike most Revell kits from this era, it is mercifully free of solid plastic railings.
This is a decent model for kids just starting out. It assembles easily.
There are two different versions of this kit, one with catapults & seaplanes, and one with helicopters and no catapults. There was also a motorized version of the Missouri kit (kit HM-30) in the 1950s.
For the Iowa herself, H-369 was a 1960 issue, as part of the "Picture Fleet" series.
Still in production (as Missouri) in 2004. (DRW)
POOR. This kit seems to have been around almost as long as the real ship.
The kit presents the ship as it would have looked at the end of WWII, and includes a plaque referring to the Japanese surrender signed onboard.
The hull is typical early Revell "flat bottom boat".I decided it was hopeless to correct the hull (which lacks even propellors or rudders) and instead concentrate on the upper works. In doing so, I rebuilt the ship to its appearance in Operation Desert Storm. This required a lot of modification, especially to the aft superstructure, but the really objectionable molded-on details could be removed. The worst of these were the 20mm mounts.
The kit became a really fun project then, scratchbuilding missle systems, radars, CWIS, and two Pioneer drones for the new flightdeck.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
It has been re-issued by
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as 1/1200 Missouri. One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Reissue of the old Renwal Andrew Jackson kit. Revell apparently first reissued it in 1977 as kit H-520. Revell-Germany's 2002 reissue is kit 05010. All the same criticisms of the old Renwal kit still apply. The model is still an Ethan Allen-class. The Andrew Jackson was a Lafayette-class. (DRW)
A 1:200 (nominal) scale polystyrene model with decals. A long time ago, a company by the name of Renwal existed. In the early 1960s they brought out a series of models on the Polaris SSBN submarines with detailed interiors. These kits included the George Washington, the Ethan Allen and the Thomas Jefferson. The first two kits had fold down hulls, the Jefferson had a clear-sided hull to reveal the interior. When Renwal folded, Revell got the molds are reissued the kit in the 1970s as the Andrew Jackson. On Ebay, some of these old kits were fetching hundreds of dollars. Revell (Germany) has reissued the kit, and it can be bought for under $20.
These are fun kits, but wildly inaccurate in detail. Exterior- the hull shapes are somewhat close. All of the kits, old and new, are about 24 inches in length, but the actual submarines, of different classes varied in length from 382 ft (Washington) to 410.5 ft (Ethan Allen) to 425 ft (Jefferson & Jackson). The rudders, stern planes and dive planes all are rendered incorrectly. The SSBN rudders were all one moving piece, not hinged. The propeller blades were much broader, and the later boats had 7 bladed propellers. How about the interiors? Sorry, not real high marks here for accuracy either. The torpedo room "necked" in from the pressure hull ahead of the sail. The control room (and other rooms) were much smaller and more cramped with equipment. The overheads are full of pipes, ducting, and wiring. The reactor and engineering spaces are a wild guess. There is no apparent maneuvering room, the heart of engineering. Although still classified in detail, the turbines, gears and general layout can be gleaned from several books such as DiMercurio's Complete Idiot's Guide to Submarines . Note that in these models, at no time does the propeller shaft even enter the engineering spaces! If you are looking for an accurate model of early US SSBNs, I would recommend the Blue Water Navy USS Simon Bolivar kit. If you want to have some nostalgic fun, this is a lot o kit for the money!
Editor's Note: Same kit as Forrest Sherman, above.
Editor's Note: Said to have been issued only once, in 1961, though there's word that it's to be re-issued in 2005. This kit is a relative of Revell's Alabama kit. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit has a few minor problems, but nothing too serious.
Other than these minor issues, it's pretty good. The 5.25" turrets are better than those on the Airfix 1/600, but overall, the Revell kit is not as detailed as the Airfix 1/600 kit. One bit of detail that's clearly missing is the de-gaussing cable that KGV had. (though her sisters didn't)
There were two different versions of this kit: one with extra light AA guns (five tubs forward, five aft, and four on the forward superstructure) which was usually sold as King George V, and a second plainer version usually sold as Prince of Wales. The Duke of York kit was apparently the same as the King George V.
I double checked the scale, and in terms of length, it comes out to about 1/568, so it's pretty close to the stated scale. It thus will display well with other Revell 1/570 kits, and maybe with some forced perspective, 1/600 kits.
Here's an interesting thought on conversions: This kit is almost exactly the right size to make a 1/600 scale Lion-class battleship, to display with an Airfix King George V. You'd have to widen the stern, make a new set of main turrets, and make a new barbette for B turret, but it would be a good starting point. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Box sometimes marked 1/720 scale, (kit 05016) which it's nowhere near. (JP)
FAIR. 2 pdr pom pom mountings look like Anime rocket batteries, not gun mounts. (Brooks)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Could be made into a good model in the right hands, it is of the "snap together" style and has good detail for its size.I bought it for the purpose of wargaming, it is configured for the mid period of its life, with a few extra 20mm guns on the fore and quarter decks but still retaining the external degaussing coils on the hull, and the catapult for the aircraft amidship. (BA)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Issued by Revell-Germany circa 1987. It has been issued as:
Editor's Note: I'm unfamiliar with this kit. From the box, it looks like Revell-Germany's reissue of the Zvezda Kursk kit. I'm not sure of the kit number, since it seems to have been used by Revell's HMS Bligh kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I'm unfamiliar with this kit. From the box, it looks like Revell-Germany's reissue of the DML Oscar class kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Mississippi River vessel. Kit dates back to at least 1956. (DRW)
FAIR. See Essex Class SCB-125. Early H-426 issue came with the attack aircraft set. Later H-444 issue usually comes with trainer aircraft, including T-28, T-2, A-4, F-9 and F-4. (DRW)
FAIR/GOOD. See comments about Essex-class SCB-125 above. Cut off the fantail gun platform for the Lady Lex and put the F-4 Phantoms aboard your Forrestal kit. (JMP)
Editor's Note: Same as Revell's Polaris kit. This is not the same as the Renwal kit. (DRW)
FAIR. The Lionfish is an old and very popular polystyrene kit of roughly 1:178 scale, originally issued in the 1970s as Flasher, and later as Growler by Revell, both of these subs being Gato class. The conning tower is closer (but not that close) to a Gato than to a cut down Balao class tower, although SS-298 Lionfish herself is a Balao. As is their usual practice, Revell merely changed the box labeling, and did not alter the kit components at all. One important issue to consider when building models of WWII Fleet Submarines is the tremendous variation in outfitting between subs, as well as the continuous change and update in armaments, radar, and paint schemes during the war. In other words, get references and pick a particular sub at a particular time. Good references include Alden's "The Fleet Submarine in the US Navy" and the Floating Drydock's "Plan Book-Gato and Balao Class Submarines".
The kit itself is fair at best, with the hull shape being basically correct. It is worthwhile drilling out the limber holes and filing to shape (check the differing patterns for individual subs!) and replacing the cleats with inexpensive white metal SS cleats (1:192 scale) from HR Products. Also replace the anchor and the capstan with white metal versions. The conning tower is marginal at best, and a good strategy is to replace it with one of the Nautilus Models resin conversion kits, which also include improved gun sets (see separate descriptions under Nautilus). These kits (3 Gato versions and 1 Balao) were made specifically for this model. Alternative is to rework the tower with plastic strip, beams, and rod from Evergreen. The guns will need some upgrading via scratchbuilding, too. Shutters (plastic strip) on the forward torpedo tubes are necessary, and the blister on the rear torpedo tubes should be sanded off. With some extra work, this can be built into an impressive version of a US Navy Fleet submarine. Out of box is much less attractive!
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
FAIR. This kit builds a reasonable example of a Gato class sub, but not the USS Lionfish, which is a Balao class sub. To model the Lionfish, the conning tower needs considerable cutting down and revision, and the periscopes/masts need to be relocated farther aft. Includes one 3" deck gun and two AA guns. Kit can be reworked to make reasonable model of USS Lionfish, biggest problem (aside from conning tower) is that the anchor and its recess is located on opposite side of hull from where it should be.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
GOOD. I gave this rating mainly due to the after market sets available. With the introduction of the 1/72 versions, I do not expect there to be any additional sets for this particular kit.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Note: First issue probably around 1971. This kit has been issued at various times as:
OK. This is the only kit of the Long Beach ever issued in injection molded polystyrene, so we have to live with it. It has numerous problems, but they are somewhat forgivable, since the kit was issued around 1959/1960, and the ship wasn't completed until 1961. Revell was obviously using a preliminary set of plans. Still, despite its many large inaccuracies, this kit will surprise you in a few places with accurate details.
Missing Pieces
Prepare to do some scratchbuilding.
Don't even get me started on the mast-mounted radars. One of them looks like a World War II vintage SK-2. Another looks like a World War II vintage Mk 12 radar, removed from a Mk 37 5-inch gun director.
Hull
The hull is a bit boxy, but not as bad as some of Revell's earlier
flat bottom boats. The bilge keels are
present, but they are not well implemented. The keel is rather thick,
and interrupted in a few places. This was done so that the stand will fit better.
There is an SQS-23 sonar dome on the keel, right where it should be.
The three-bladed propellers look a bit small, and I suspect that the
real ship probably had 5-bladed props.
As with many other early Revell ships, the kit has solid plastic railings. Fortunately, since they are molded into the hull (rather than the deck) they are somewhat easier to remove. There are similar railings molded into many of the superstructure side pieces, which should also be removed.
A major omission on the hull is the "knuckle" near the bow. According to my drawing, (perhaps not a perfect one, but it looks good) the knuckle should be about 4 inches (10.2 cm) long, and it should start about 1 1/8 inch (2.9 cm) from the stem, measured at knuckle level. I glued some 3/16 inch (4.8mm) strip styrene to the hull, with the top edge of the strip at the top of the hull. I sanded the top edge until it met the hull, and then ran a bead of putty along the bottom edge of the strip. With bit of sanding to clean it up, it looked pretty good.
The bow isn't quite pointy enough, but this can be corrected with a bit of sanding.
The forward bulwarks are just a tiny bit too short. They need to be extended about 1/16 inch further aft.
Superstructure
On top of this, you will put an ASROC launcher roughly where the Regulus launcher was supposed to go.
Aft of that, you need to completely scratchbuild a structure to connect this midships superstructure piece to the aft superstructure! This piece will have the 5-inch guns on it. Again, non-trivial.
Missile Launchers
The missile launchers are tolerable, but I've seen better.
There's more, of course, that I haven't gone into yet, but this will take care of many of the bigger problems. Get some good drawings and photos, and you can probably fix the rest.
In conclusion, if you want to build this kit into something accurate, you have your work cut out for you. But if you want to build an injection molded polystyrene model of the Long Beach, (or are just a 1/500 fan) this kit is all there is. (DRW)
OK. Here is the parts list to get your CGN appearing almost correct (forward missile handling area excluded).
| MUST SALVAGE PARTS FROM: | |
| 5in/38 Enclosed mounts | Lindberg 1/535 Riley or Rudderow |
| SPG-49 Antennas | Monogram 1/500 Chicago or Columbus |
| SPQ-5 Antennas | Revell 1/480 Canberra or Boston |
| SPG-55 Antennas | Monogram 1/400 Leahy / Halsey (maybe small) |
| ASROC | Monogram 1/500 Chicago or Columbus |
| Talos Launcher | Monogram 1/500 Chicago or Columbus |
FAIR. See Baltimore Class above.
GOOD. This is an older tug kit, and has been offered under several names. Assembly was fairly easy, except for the fenders that hook over the sides of the hull. Despite repeated gluing, they tended to fall off easily when bumped. This tug begs to be modernized and detailed. (I added scratchbuilt life preservers and radar to mine.)
(RLAW), review dated 13 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of Taurus, below.
FAIR. Same kit as Alabama. Re-issued late 1997 by Revell-Germany as kit 05031. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit issued around 1969. About 11 inches long.
Editor's Note: A collection of kits, circa 1954, including the following:
I have not seen these out of the box, so my presumptions are little more than guesses. (DRW)
GOOD. A decent representation of the Midway class a few years after they were built, with the open bow and straight flight deck. The original 40mm quads are replaced on the kit with 3"/L50 twins, but otherwise the kit represents the Midways' original configuration.
Above the waterline, the only things I don't like are the molded-into-the-deck plastic railings and 20mm guns. Both can be removed. The details on the 5"/L54 mk 39 guns are a bit heavy, but tolerable.
Below the waterline, though it's pretty bad. It's another of Revell's infamous flat-bottom boats. Aircraft include F9F-6 Cougars, a few F4U Corsairs, and just two AD (AKA A-1) Skyraiders.
I think this kit was first issued around 1954, as Roosevelt (Kit H-307). Kit H-373 was a "Picture Fleet" issue of the Midway, circa 1960.
GOOD. I like this kit. The flat bottom is a pain to fix as I have found out after completing that modification, but overall it is a nice kit. I think the level of detail is inferior to the Forrestal kits. The aircraft of ok, The wings of the Corsairs are a little large, but look how many you get!
The guns are not too bad. I like the 5"/L54 Mk 39 mounts the best. The kit does not carry any of the 40mm mounts originally installed and locating photos with them is a challenge too. If a suitable scale 40mm can be located, just replace all of the 3”/50 cal mounts to get a 1946 configuration.
The flight deck is nice and protrays the many cables on this class. The island is a little plain though. A lot of detail seems to be missing. Luckly GMM makes a great PE set for this very kit and it helps a lot.
The hull, as David mentioned is another flat-bottom joke. There is a fix. It is listed on the Scale Ship Modeller website. It works great.
I used the lower hull of a Revell Forrestal. Here is my advice: Measure, measure and measure again. I was lucky that I happened to stop a dozen times out of fear and it paid off on ten occasions. Use plenty of internal bracing on both hulls. Cutting off the Forrestal hull was pretty easy. Just be sure to cut it level. Otherwise you will be doing a lot of flatbed sanding.
I am considering using a Renwal Essex to make the Hurricane bow conversion. I am not sure if it will fit though. Also this area has another problem that will surface. When you splice on the Forrestal bow, you will notice that there is no bulb. This is wrong. I had to add it only. I did so at the very end to avoid refinishing the entire hull. Styrene squares and putty was all that was required.
The Midway on the other hand was not so straight forward, especially at the stern due to the amount of rake at the stern waterline. It was a real tester.
The Forrestal hull is a bit larger than the Midway and thankfully a transom stern. You will have to do a lot of splicing. In the end I cut the Forrestal hull into 18 sections to get the fit right. Additionally, putty will be your best friend. I have never used so much. Funny thing is I sanded away about 90% of the putty I used. I am extremely pleased with the end result.
You must know this: the conversion is for the Midway hull only till the early 70's prior to the major flight deck change and the addition of the blisters. If you plan to go beyond this point you are in for a huge job, one which I have already embarked. If you stay prior to that period you have a few options. Either as a straight deck or the early SCB-110 conversion. Neither of which is a huge undertaking.
The kit could be built to the original configuration, but the 3in / 50 cal guns will have to be replaced with 40mm quad mounts.
Gold Metal Models makes a great PE set for this kit.
(RDF), review updated 6 January 2009.
GOOD. This kit is one of the early polystyrene plastic model ship kits, appearing just a year after the granddaddy of them all, Revell's 1/535 scale Missouri. Initially issued in 1954 as the Franklin D. Roosevelt (kit H-307), it was Revell's first aircraft carrier and their largest plastic model kit to date—and it sold for a mere $2.49! That kit was identical to the numerous re-releases over the years, except that it had the number "42" in raised outline on both sides of the funnel and on the flight deck fore and aft. It was next issued as a part of the 1955 Victory at Sea set, followed by a Picture Fleet kit circa 1960 (H-321) along with a Midway (kit H-373) and a motorized Coral Sea (H-399). The Coral Sea appeared again without the motor in 1966 (H-374), and once again in 1974 with new box art (H-440) along with the Midway (H-441). Other than the raised numbering (deleted from all but the earliest issues) and the motor on the 1961 Coral Sea, the only differences among these kits were the box illustrations, decals, and instructions. At 66 parts (plus the stand and a 34-part airgroup) the model is fairly simple, but it builds into a nice looking flattop. The kit represents the ship as she appeared not long after completion but after the original 40mm Bofors quads were replaced with more powerful 3"/L50 twin mounts. The Mk.37 directors are still fitted with the WWII-era Mk. 4 radars though, so I'm not certain of the exact date. It is definitely before the ship's major 1955-7 refit because of the open bow, straight flight deck, and numerous 20mm Oerlikon positions. As with most of their earliest ship kits, the Roosevelt/Midway/Coral Sea is one of Revell's infamous "flat bottom boats" from the time when Revell had not yet decided whether their products were to be marketed as accurate scale models or as toys. The compromise hulls were mostly accurate but with flat bottoms so kids could play with them on the floor. While appealing to children (I remember preferring these to the rounded hull models that tended to roll over during combat ops in the back yard), they made these kits totally inaccurate as full hull models. That flat hull bottom is really very strange; this thing is not a true full hull, but it isn’t a proper waterline either. It is as if some giant were lifting the ship partially out of the sea, exposing about 3/4 of the vessel below the waterline but without taking it entirely from the water. No propellers or shafts are provided, and the twin rudders are actually cut in half to match the flat hull bottom. I suppose it would be possible to fix all this, but waterlining the model is the easiest solution. Fortunately, the rest of the model is pretty decent. While I'm not nuts about the molded-to-the-deck solid railings and molded-in 20mm guns, the shapes and dimensions above the waterline are accurate and convincingly rendered. And although it is sometimes somewhat heavy, there is quite a bit of detail. The 3" twins and 5"/L54 mk 39 guns are covered in details which, if overdone, at least add interest. The island sports both open and closed doors, sharply incised bridge windows, even life rafts and flag bags. The hull and sponsons are festooned with numerous molded in shapes which impart a general impression of complexity while using only a few parts. On the flight deck I was especially impressed with the sharply molded catapult tracks, arrestor gear, accurately ribbed gallery sides, and faithful depiction of hundreds of aircraft tie down points in the form of tiny raised dots. There are also a number of very delicately sculpted smaller details like floater net baskets (with floats visible inside), deck winches, and some excellent canvas cover detail on the two lifeboats aft. These touches may be from the hand of the primary model sculptor for the kit master, Anthony D. Bulone, who is best known as the sculptor of the original Mattel Barbie doll. The kit comes with a nice airgroup of 26 aircraft including sixteen F9F-6 Cougars (eleven with folded wings), six F4U Corsairs, two A-1 Skyraiders, and a pair of Piaseki HUP-2 Retriever helicopters with folded rotors. The planes are simplified but basically accurate, and there is even a modest amount of raised detailing. Each is molded as a single piece except the Corsairs and Skyraiders which have their engine/propeller assemblies as separate parts. This is cool as it makes it possible for them to have individual propeller blades. Though thick, they don’t look bad. The rotor blades on the helos are less successful, but they can easily be replaced. Landing gear on the fixed wing aircraft is depicted with solid pegs. No decals are provided for any of the planes, but markings for the ship itself include two large yellow “41” numbers for the flight deck, two smaller white/black shaded "41" for the funnel and "MIDWAY" in black letters for the stern. Despite its age and relative simplicity, Revell's 21 inch long Midway builds into a surprisingly impressive carrier. Unfortunately this classic kit has been out of production for some time, so it tends to command absurd "collector" prices when it pops up now and again on online auction sites or at model swap meets. That's too bad, because it is a great kit for its original niche of an inexpensive model for a straightforward, fun build.
(TR) Review dated 15 January 2009.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
FAIR. I'm being generous in giving it such a good rating. This is, alas, yet another of Revell's "flat-bottom boats" It's even worse than usual, as the draft is seriously insufficient. The model draws about 15 scale feet instead of the 30 feet it should. Needless to say, detail below the waterline is non-existant. In this respect, it is very much like Revell's Currituck-class kit. Like the Currituck-class, waterlining it may be the only solution. An easy way out might be to build it out of the box, and claim that it's a waterline model of the ship running empty, riding high in the water.
It also is cursed with Revell's infamous molded-into-the-deck railings. Fortunately, they're easier to remove on this kit than on some others.
Once you get past those two flaws, (and they're big ones, to be sure) it's actually half decent. Deck detail is nice, and the superstructre is acceptable. The 5 inchers are acceptable for their day, and the 20mms are pretty darn good. (Remarkable for Revell!) Other than the problem with the draft, the hull is correctly scaled.
Orignally issued in 1964, re-issued under SSP in 1997. While I'm usually willing to cut Revell a little slack on some of their early "flat-bottom boats" I do so reluctantly in this case. By 1964, Revell had issued several kits with real full hulls. There's no excuse for this even in 1964. On the other hand, what other company in the world would issue a kit of a fleet oiler?
UPDATE: (late 2003) I'm now pretty sure that the Mission Capistrano kit is a slightly modified version of the Revell's 1955 J.L.Hanna kit, which would explain the flat bottom in 1964. (DRW)
GOOD. The flat bottom is of course horrible, but since almost all of Revells kits at this time had this feature, what can you do? The molded on railings are a little worse in this kits than some of the others, but fixable with a lot of effort. The molded on deck fittings can and should be removed and/or corrected. All in all a fun kit.
I am still researching a way to replace the lower hull as I write this. I successfully fixed my USS Midway, but I have made no progress on this particular model.
This kit is basically accurate for non jumbolized ships as they served in the 40's and early 50's. Afterwards most of the class were Jumbolized in a program to increase the fuel load by 240,000 gallons. If it is desired to make this correction to this kit, two cuts in the hull and deck are required.
The first one is forward of the Bridge, The second one is aft of the bridge.
(NOTE: If you plan to add a lower hull you MUST finish this first.)
At the forward cut you will have to install 50 scale feet of hull and deck. This is relatively easy because in a mood of laziness by the Navy, a simple hull section was added with a double helicopter landing area over the top.
The aft section needs to have 35 scale feet added. While no rigging for a refueling station was installed, no landing pad was either so because of this you will have to build a second deck and main deck structure with all of the deck fittings..
These ships were also used as a basis for a few of the CVE's produced for the Navy. Conversion to this configuration may be another option and would fllow the same process as the Hawaiian Pilot.
Due to the scale there are only a few ships that this kit can be displayed, such as Heller kits or the Monogram Leahy or if using prespective angles any 1/350. Just keep some distance between them.
(RDF), review updated 6 January 2009.
OOB: Not the same mould as the Tamiya Missouri. The parts are thicker and less detailed. The same model was put out by Otaki. (JP)
Editor's Note: This kit may be more or less the original Otaki mold, as it apparently portrays the Missouri in her World War II configuration. Revell's related 1/350 New Jersey kit portrays BB-62 in her 1980s configuration. (DRW)
OK. See Iowa Class above. Kit HM-30 was a motorized version from the 1950s.
GOOD. Released in 1983, this kit was issued at the same time as Revell's 1/720 modernized New Jersey (kit 5012), with which it shares the same hull, forward superstructure, funnel, and a few detail parts. This one represents the Mighty Mo as she appeared when commissioned during World War Two with her full battery of guns and Kingfisher seaplanes. An attractive effort, this is also one of those frustrating kits that has the makings of excellence, only to be let down by some regrettable design choices by the manufacturer.
On the plus side, the hull is outstanding. Split along the centerline with a separate insert for the skeg alley, it captures perfectly the elegant contours of the great ship. Even the bulbous underwater bow, a feature often poorly represented, looks just right. The main deck has excellent, consistent plank detail, and since it is a single piece there are no cross-deck seams! The forward tower/funnel and aft funnel assemblies are perfectly shaped and well-fitting with delicate raised door and ladder detail that is just beautiful. The complex masts are credibly rendered with very few parts, and the sensors are not bad at all. In fact, the Mk. 8 and Mk. 37 fire directors are better than those on any of the comparable 1/700 scale USN battleships from Aoshima, Fujimi or Hasegawa, or even those on Revell's own 1/720 scale Massachusetts/Alabama kits.
Unfortunately, the rest of the kit fails to maintain this standard. First, there are some outright mistakes such as the four bladed inner propellers (should be five bladed), missing searchlights, and lack of Mk. 51 directors for the numerous 20mm singles. More serious are the shortcomings resulting from the manufacturer's apparent decision to abridge components to simplify tooling challenges and, presumably, assembly. All weapons, though useable, are uninspired. The sixteen inch main turrets, for example, have rather clumsy rafts molded to the sides, over thick barrels, and no blast bags. The one-piece Five inch gunhouses, 40mm quads and 20mm singles all lack detail and are only generally correct (and the barrels on the five inchers are too close together). The Kingfishers are recognizable but not particularly accurate. Though annoying, these substandard parts can at least be reworked, or they can be simply replaced using Skywave sets or parts from other kits.
The worst problems are more difficult to address. The bridge sides, for example, are molded completely flat, the windows being represented with decals (why didn't Revell just mold them in?) Splinter shields and open vertical bulkheads throughout are excessively thick, and most of them are too short to boot. Replacing these would involve a LOT of cutting and scraping, plus some inevitable damage to that nice planked main deck... and then of course the dozens of shields would have to be replaced. The worst flub is that four of the 20mm galleries which should overhang decks below are molded integrally with them, creating false bulkheads that, if removed, would leave gaping holes in the bulkheads and decks below which would have to be filled and faired in with the surrounding surfaces... fixable, but a real pain!
This then is the dilemma of this kit: that terrific full hull, deck, nice superstructure and other parts suggest great possibilities for a really stunning small scale build, but overcoming the kit's shortcomings in other areas would involve a lot of extra work. Perhaps in 1983 when the best alternative available was Fujimi's waterline 1/700 Missouri , that might have been worthwhile. However, in the years since then other choices, notably the outstanding 1/700 scale waterline Missouri from Tamiya and Trumpeter's 1/700 full hull/waterline Missouri have made Revell's old 1/720 offering much less appealing. Nevertheless, Revell's 1/720 Missouri out of the box can still be a good option for an attractive, no frills build of that magnificent ship.
(TR) Review dated 30 January 2010.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, this kit was issued around 1983. It portrays the ship in World War II, unlike Revell's related 1/720 New Jersey kit.
For comparison, check out these kits:
FAIR. The kit instructions say snap together or glue, but some of the holes are too big so the pieces fall off unless you glue them and the small pieces like the aircraft just aren't big enough to be snapped. The stacks are too pointy, but the most glaring error is an external armor belt. Other than that, not a bad kit for the price. (JF)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
FAIR. A flat bottom boat sold also as Randall, with superstructure layers split in the middle (to allow portholes through, except this makes the ports at chest height and they are too big.) Detail pretty good, with lots of landing craft. "Cargo nets" (troops climbed down these to reach the landing craft alongside) molded onto hull side as a straight grid. if someof the landing craft were made "waterline" with some kind of representation of troops in them, could be basis for a good diorama, with some kind of gauze replacing the etched-on nets.
Also released under the company name Advent. (Brooks)
FAIR.
This is a plastic kit with a skein of string for rigging and decals for Montrose or Randall, although the only complete set is for the Montrose. This is a reissue of the old Revell kit no. H-452 and came out in 2004-05.
This is one of Revell's infamous flat bottomed boats. The one piece hull is molded down to a point below the waterline and them simply flattened out. The only thing you can do with this ridiculous arrangement is to cut off the bottom at the waterline, which suits me fine as that is all I build anyway. However, full hull builders, this kit is not for you, unless you have the desire to completely reengineer the hull. In addition to having the hull issue the deck parts are covered with very visible ejection pin markings (very much like huge man hole covers resting on the deck) and huge plating detail as well as deck equipment. The sides of the hull have molded in netting to simulate the netting the troops used to embark in the landing craft, ugh, sand it off. The ships guns are clunky and over scale. The landing craft aren't all that bad but most of the rest of the parts have more than their share of flash.
I have seen great things done with these kits. Just be prepared to do a lot of work to clean up the parts, detail them and remove the many ejector pin marks and over scale molded on detail on the hull and decks. You will need a set of brass detail parts, try Gold Medal Models, and some really good plans to get the rigging of this ship right. Let a newbie build it out of the box and be happy, you old salts best be prepared for a long siege on the workbench.
Directions are good as far as they go, forget about the painting instructions and get good plans for added detail and rigging.
(WJS), review dated 7 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: Randall & Montrose were based on VC2-S-AP5 hulls. This kit has been issued at various times as:
Originally issued as Randall circa 1956. Apparently, this is NOT a variant of Revell's Hawaiian Pilot. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
POOR. Junk with a capital "J". Bears little to no resemblance to the real Nautilus. Deck planking is particularly bad. Numerous limber holes on the kit were not on the real SSN-571. Hatches are really bad. Hull shape is noticably wrong. The sail isn't even right. The bad fit on the forward torpedo tubes is legendary. I'll make one kind remark: the scopes and antennae are less bad than those on the Aurora Nautilus. 1950s vintage kit, re-issued 1996. Suitable as a tub-toy, a nostalgia piece, a painting experiment, or a teaching tool for kids, (i.e. teaching them how to paint or glue if you don't want to waste money on a good kit) but don't waste your time trying to make an accurate Nautilus out of it. I bought mine knowing full well that it was junk. It was used as an exercise in painting and filling incorrect limber holes. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
GOOD: Similar to, but _not_ the same molds as Tamiya New Jersey. Parts are thicker and the detail isn't as sharp.
Revell Germany has re-released this kit. It may be the same, a fixup, or a whole new mould. (JP)
GOOD. I had fit problems with both my Revell 1/350 Iowa-class ships, most noticeably in getting an acceptable fit between the superstructure and the main deck. The one-piece main deck eliminates seams, but can be a bit flimsy once installed -- consider reinforcing it with transverse pieces of sprue. Not a bad kit, but I recommend the better-engineered Tamiya examples instead. (JMP)
GOOD. This kit portrays the New Jersey in her 1980s configuration. By most accounts, Revell bought the old Otaki Otaki 1/350 mold , and had Loren Perry design an update for it. It was originally issued by Revell in 1984. I built one of the old CEJI/Revell (kit 5214) issued versions, not the more recent Revell-Germany reissue (kit 05059).
The biggest problem with this kit is that the superstructure sides are really thick, and that's hard to fix. A lot of things didn't fit together well. On the plus side, I really like the one piece main deck, (many criticize the Tamiya competing kit's three piece decks) which actually has the correct helo pad marked out on it. The hull is fairly nice, but the twin "skegs" are a bit thick. There was a slight distortion in the hull near the bulb bow that I fixed with some putty.
I'm not absolutely sure, but I believe that the Revell's 1/350 Missouri is closely related, and represents that ship during World War II, It could be more or less the original Otaki mold. (DRW)
OK. See Iowa Class, above. First issued as New Jersey in 1955, as kit H-316.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Kit represents the New Jersey as she appeared in the 1980s.
First the good news: The hull is gorgeous. It's a three piece hull: port and starboard halves, plus a piece that fits between the twin skegs. (rather like that of the 1/570 North Carolina) The hull halves are not scored for waterlining, but considering how well they did below the waterline, you'll want to build it as a full hull model anyway. The bulb bow is right, the twin skegs are the nicest I've ever seen, and even the bilge keels are reasonably good.
Now the bad news: Revell got many details wrong. Yes, it's mostly little stuff, and most of the problem parts can be fixed or replaced, but it's disappointing after seeing that nice hull.
The kit is at least cheap. You'll need the money you save to buy those horribly expensive Skywave parts packs. Kit dates back to about 1983. (DRW)
You'll also want to reference photographs to build up the decks and superstructure - there are many noticable pieces missing, such as the large blocks on either side of the upper forward superstructure, blocks behind the ship's boats, the entire after superstructure needs to be built up, and the helo control booth above main turret #3. It's a matter of using strip and sheet styrene to fill out the gaps - nothing large has to be removed. (JP)
Editor's Note: Apparently, this kit is related to Revell's 1/720 Missouri kit. (DRW)
GOOD. You may build this model as modern variant (helicopters are supplied with the kit) or as WW II variant (floatplanes are supplied as well). Armour belt is slightly misfit which could be fixed by cutting or sanding.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: Presumably the same as 1/1200 Missouri. One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
OK - This is the German version of the joint European frigate. Surface detail is reasonable but some smaller pieces were left off or stylized. Kit includes full set of molded railings. These are only two rungs and are somewhat thick. Although 1/350 will appear a bit small, you may want to consider using instead. Includes two helicopters and full hull markings for all ships in the class. Helicopter hangar can be portrayed open or closed. Main mast is curved and comes in four pieces and is somewhat difficult to assemble. However, subject matter is fairly obscure, so kit may be worth the effort. I understand that in addition to the Emden FFG, Revell also released the same kit in its Netherlands version. (DH)
Editor's Note: Same as Emden FFG and Dutch Kortenaer-class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Nimitz, circa 1988. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to have 118 parts. Kit number may be 5630, not sure. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Really nice detail on the hull. The bow isn't quite pointy enough, but that's correctable. Individual 20mm guns are pretty nice. The superstructure has some nice detail. Both 16" and 5" guns are nicely executed. Kit dates back to at least 1969. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. I have built this kit twice and both times the 16in guns were severely bent and on neither occasion was I able to straighten them. This really looks bad.
The 40mm and 5 inch mounts are very good. The 40's are some of the best plastic kits examples I have seen after you add shields. The 20mm guns are thicker than the 40mm and the stern crane and catapults are a bit heavy. In contrast, the midship cranes are good.
The Hull is nice over all but the bow is to broad at the deck level and way, way too thick below the waterline. So thick in fact that correcting it to the correct dimensions is really a task. Actually to correct this will require reshaping the entire bow area. First you will have to removed almost everything starting below the last plate line all the way to the keel. At the keel you will have to cut back about a full 2 inches. After this is done you must rebuild the hull from scratch. Care must be taken to incorporate the correct flair to the waterline and the addition of the bulbous bow. (Incidently the width of the original bulbous bow is pretty close)
The deck is very good as there are no molded in weapons. The gun tubs are a little thick, but passable. The molded on anchor chain is easily removed and the anchors can be corrected some. The only real problem is barbette for "Alpha" Turret. It is blended right into the deck. Though not to noticeable after gun installation, it leaves the mount setting a little to low on the bow side.
I like the appearance of the stern but the fit is not to good. A lot of seams left to fill. This is because of the extra wedge piece included for reasons I can't figure out. I would have liked to seen the rudders more detailed as in the Arizona.
A good model that could have been great if not for the warped main guns, bow shape and stern seams.
(RDF), review updated 6 January 2009.
GOOD. This ship is a good companion model to the Monogram New Jersy, appears to be in the same scale. Kit builds ship to WWII appearance. No internal linage for main turrets, but guns can be raised and lowered on main turrets. As on Monogram New Jersey, sufficient material extends through deck on 5/38 mounts to mushroom beneath deck to allow for rotating secondary turrets. Includes scout aircraft on catapults. Builds good looking model OOB without additions or modifications.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Revell issued this kit as:
For comparison, check out:
Rating: 2
General Comments: Sold previously as Soviet Spy Trawler Volga, the kit fits together well, though I did apply some extra glue along the two halves of the hull to fill in a narrow gap caused by the parts warping slightly during cooling. The deck texture detail is good and holds up well after several coats of primer, paint, and washing to bring out the wood grain pattern. The main winch has the cables molded into the spool and these wash well, too. I drilled out the portholes and the hatches to the pilot house to improve the realism, which then created the problem of having to scratch build the interior details of the cabin. The ladders are molded into the sides of the superstructure, so you'll want to scratch-build the ladders from sprue to really dress it up. I also had to block off the bottom of the smoke stack with screen to prevent peering into the cabin. The kit comes with 2 fishermen figures molded in the exact same pose - standing erect with arms bent out, to mimick hauling in a net. Overall, its a fun kit to build, though not as detailed as I would've liked but does have the advantage of being the only kit representing this style of boat. If you're looking for a basic hull shape in a scale that lends itself to detailing, this is a good kit to build. If you're looking for a kit that contains all the detail bits and builds great right out of the box, you may be better off going with Heller's Le Suroit or Bodasteinur kits. A clever R/C enthusiast could probably turn this kit into a pond boat - the hull certainly is large enough to provide sufficient buoyancy and the electronic gear could be stowed in the pilot house. (TW)
Editor's Note:This is the original model, which later became the Pine Island and Currituck kits. H-331 was issued around 1956. It includes a ballistic missile of some sort on the deck, and a helo pad forward. (DRW)
FAIR. (based on in-box review) Detail looks a bit overdone, panel lines look too heavy, and the 8" turrets appear to be a little small. (DRW)
GOOD. This is one of Revell’s box-scale classics, first appearing in 1959 in white, tan, and dark brown plastic (kit H-367-198). Sometimes confused with the 1967 Pyro 1/228 Olympia (later reissued by Life-Like and Lindberg), Revell’s Olympia is an entirely different, and far superior, kit. It has been issued numerous times over the years, including by both Revell and Revell UK in 1974 (H-443), Revell-clone Advent in 1979 (2552), and Revell "History Makers"l; series in 1982 (kit 8623, in gray plastic). It was also issued in the late 1980s by Tsukuda Hobby of Japan (kit C01) and again by Revell-Monogram in 1999 (5026). In what has to be the definitive issue of the kit, Encore Models (the Squadron Mail Order house brand) in 2012 issued a "Premium Edition" of the kit with upgrade parts by Flyhawk of China including brass replacement barrels, photoetch, resin parts, and wood deck upgrades.
The kit has been criticized for its somewhat heavy detailing, molded in rail stanchions and 1950s-era moving features such as a turnable rudder and davits that lower and raise. Even with these weaknesses though, Revell’s Olympia is still a pretty good kit. Checking the dimensions against the 1895 Booklet of General Plans for the ship, the model scales out very well. Hull, superstructure, and 8 inch turret dimensions are dead on (although the turret bases, depicted with the same girth as the turrets, should actually be wider). Shapes are generally accurate. Unlike many of Revell’s early ship models, this one also has an accurate hull including correct underwater hullform and well executed screws. Scuttles, hatches and other details are credibly represented and appropriately placed. Highlights include nicely rendered canvas detail on the main hatch frame cover, excellent decals (including federal shield for the bow, stern nameplate, and flags), and no molded-in anchor chain to mar the raised planking detail on the foredeck. I also liked the nicely done clinker-planked hull detail on the boats, the delicate one-pounder guns, and the tiny three-part open spoked helm. Details are sharp and parts fit overall is decent, so the casual modeler can assemble the model without heartburn into an attractive display piece right out of the box.
For the more ambitious builder there are some challenges. Photos of the preserved USS Olympia show that the extensive rivet and plating details on the kit hull, though accurate, are a bit heavy. These details are visible, but the actual hull sides appear quite modern and fairly smooth from any distance. You can sand the kit details down or leave them for "impressionistic" effect. Also, while the deck planking detail is good, there are hard to conceal seams where the fantail and the foredeck attach to the main deck. A more serious problem is the guns. While the one-pounders are quite good, the simplified depiction of the hull mounted six-pounders is passable only if the casemates are shown closed. When open, the unshielded gun mounts should be visible inside; I used 2.95 inch guns from a 1/350 Zvezdza Varyag kit (in 1/232 scale equivalent to 1.96 inch, which is pretty close to Olympia’s 2.2 inch). Also, Revell incorrectly depicted Olympia’s 5 inch battery in individual enclosed niches. These guns were actually arranged along an open gun deck within the superstructure, something like that on an old sailing ship of the line. If you open up the niches you must also fill the hole in the kit main deck under the superstructure which then becomes visible behind the guns. In addition, though useable, the weapons themselves are very basic; I replaced them with 1/350 scale 5.98 inch mounts from the Varyag. Other upgrades might include photoetch details (Gold Medal Models, Tom’s Modelworks, and Flyhawk all have sets especially for the Olympia) and turned brass gun barrels (the Encore issue, or B&D Barrels set 23201). These enhancements dramatically improve things, but even without them this venerable kit from the dawn of plastic ship modeling builds into a good looking model. And the bright red antifouling, white hull and buff upperworks will really stand out among your mostly gray warships.
(TR) Review dated January 2012.
Editor's Notes: Re-issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)Editor's Note: This kit apaprently dates back to 1961. It is said to measure about 20 inches (51 cm) long. Pictures on the web indicate a two pice hull, split along the keel. Apparently, kit number H-401 was motorized. It may have been issued by Revell-GB. It was re-issued by Revell-Germany (kit 5202) around 1980.
Editor's Notes: Re-issued as:
FAIR. See Essex Class SCB-125.
Editor's Note: Apparently, Revell only issued their SCB-125 kit once as the Oriskany, sometime around 1967. Air group including F-8 Crusaders, A-4 Skyhawks, S-2 Trackers, and S-3 Sea King helos. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 18 inches (46cm) long when completed. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be 18 inches (46cm) long when completed. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The boat from the TV series "McHale's Navy". 1997 SSP re-issue cancelled due to mold damage. Rumor has it that this kit was a Vosper, not the Higgins that they used on TV. (DRW)
GOOD. Early weapons fit 80' ELCO. Good model, though I would like alternate decals, since not everyone wants to build JFK's boat. Fit good, lots of detail. The deck lines need to be sanded down, since it was plywood, not planked. (JP)
Editor's Note: From the pictures I've seen, this appears to be a Revell-Germany reissue of the PT-109 kit, (i.e. an ELCO boat) with different decals. Revell-Germany apparently issued it sometime around 1994. (DRW)
Editor's Note: AKA "Jack of Diamonds". Apparently, this is a rare variant of the PT-109 kit, with open mount torpedoes instead of tubes. I've never seen this kit in person. (DRW)
FAIR. 1966 reissue of PT-212. Also issued as PT-211, and by AHM as PT-207.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Tim Reynaga reviewed the AHM version. (DRW)
FAIR. 1975 reissue of PT-212. Also issued as PT-207, and by AHM as PT-207.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Tim Reynaga reviewed the AHM version. (DRW)
FAIR. 1953 vintage kit also reissued later as PT-207 (1966), PT-211 (1975), and by AHM as PT-207.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Higgins boat. This kit may date back as far as 1953. Tim Reynaga reviewed the AHM re-issue. (DRW)
Editor's Note:Reboxing of the larger Revell Arizona.(DRW)
FAIR. Same kit as Arizona, above. This kit does not accurately reflect the differences between the Arizona and the Pennsylvania. Kit dates back to about 1961. (DRW)
POOR. (Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. Reissue of the Skywave/DML kit. It's the DML version , with the lower hull. Apparently, Revell-Germany intended this kit for European sale only.(DRW)
Editor's Notes: See Currituck-class, above. The H-455 box was apparently issued in 1966. (DRW)
FAIR. See Baltimore-Class above. Issued as Pittsburgh circa 1967. (DRW)
POOR. Styrene kit in approximately 1:250 scale. This kit was originally released in the very late 1950s-early 60s to compete with the Renwal SSBN kits at the time the original Polaris missile nuclear subs were first going to sea. Like the Renwal, it features a cutaway design to reveal the internal structure of a Polaris submarine. When initially released, the kit erroneously was equipped with 8 missile tubes, instead of the true number of 16 tubes. This was quickly corrected to match the number in the real submarines (and Renwal, who got it right!). The kit was released as the George Washington and the Patrick Henry, both early SSBN designs derived from Skipjack attack sub hulls. It was later reissued with decals for all five of the early SSBNs of this design. The turtleback covering the missile tubes begins abruptly just ahead of the sail, reflecting this lineage (later designs extended the turtleback farther forward and smoothed into the hull). As with Renwal's George Washington kit, this kit has only 4 torpedo tubes instead of the 6 found on these Skipjack derived designs. The starboard hull has a series of large cutouts to view the interior, rather than the fold down side (or clear plastic in the case of the Thomas Jefferson kit) offered by Renwal. There are fewer parts, and no crewmembers in the Revell offering. This kit makes wider use of decals to represent various control panels, etc. around the interior of the ship than Renwal's version. The engineering spaces do make a stab at marginally greater accuracy than Renwal, as the propeller shaft and steam turbines are represented, unlike the Renwal kit. These features should not be necessarily interpreted as denoting great accuracy. As with Renwal, the upper and lower rudder assemblies have a fixed and moving part; the real submarines had one piece, all moving surfaces. In the case of Revell, two of the missile tubes can be modeled open, with the missiles visible. Only a single tube is open on the Renwal; however the Renwal missile tube is spring loaded with a trigger, allowing one to launch the missile, thus winning out on the "coolness" factor. Overall, in my opinion, this kit is smaller and decidedly inferior to the contemporary Renwal kit.
Note - Source for some confusion: Revell later got the Renwal molds after the Renwal Co. folded, and Revell issued (and reissued in 2003, by Revell AG) the USS Andrew Jackson (a Renwal mold) under the Revell name. (TD)
Editor's Notes: I have not seen this kit out of the box, but it is said to be about 18 inches long. It is said to date back to about 1961. This is not the same as the Renwal kit.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out the following:
(DRW)GOOD. This Revell kit is fundamentally the same as the Revell King George V model, but with a few slight modifications, such as the light AA guns. A few minor superstructure problems, and no bilge keels, but other than that, pretty good. The 5.25" turrets are better than those on the Airfix 1/600. The Airfix King George V is more detailed overall, though. (DRW)
GOOD. This kit of P.O.W.is configured at the time of her loss in 1941 the hull is identical to K.G.5. but should not have the degaussing coils on and these are difficult to remove in this scale. The deck however is correct for P.O.W. in not having the additional 20mm guns on the fore and quarter decks, but does have the army Bofors gun that was fitted on the quarterdeck.(BA)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
GOOD. Accurately represents the superstructure differences between Prinz Eugen and earlier units of her class. Can be built as full-hull or waterline model. Kit dates back at least to 1967, possibly further. Kit 05050 is a relatively recent (as of 2003) Revell-Germany issue.
FAIR. First released in 1967, this kit has also (with slight alterations) seen service as the Blücher (kit H-480) and as the Admiral Hipper (kit H-490). Evidently a popular model kit, Prinz Eugen was issued continuously by Revell between 1967-1977. It has since been re-released by Revell Germany as kit 05050, the only difference being in the box art and instructions. Interestingly, the original Revell USA issue box art showed a view of the ship taking a torpedo in the stern, presumably the February 1942 strike by HMS Trident; the Revell Germany issue uses the same painting, but the column of water marking the torpedo hit has been removed! Revell's Prinz Eugen is a solid older kit, with basically accurate shapes and dimensions. There is even some nice detailing such as the fine raised planking on the main deck and the consistently rendered portholes on the hull. The propellers are quite delicate, and their distinctive shapes are well captured. Subtle sea chest/intake details on the underside of the hull, features common to all seagoing ships but almost never seen on plastic models, are a highlight. Plus, the split-apart hull allowing the modeler to switch between waterline and full hull display was an innovative feature for the time--and great fun for me when I first built it as a kid!
The problem is that Revell cut just a few too many corners on this one. The superstructures, for example, although they do assemble easily, are clunky and lacking in detail. Main turrets are well shaped, but the molded-in guns are exaggerated and too thick. Many smaller components such as antiaircraft guns, torpedo tubes, and boats are simplified and worse, molded directly to the decks. The designers also seemed to rush things when it came to detailing the separate parts; the Arado 196 seaplane is crude and inaccurate, and the 10.5cm mounts are only just recognizable with some details that seem to be imaginary. The cranes are similarly mediocre. Some of the assemblies are difficult to complete, too; I remember struggling to get the mainmast platform with its searchlights to stand evenly. Now the model can be improved by raiding smaller parts from other Kriegsmarine kits, and the addition of modern photoetch can make a huge difference... but there are limits to what can reasonably be done with this rather basic kit. Better alternatives are available if you want a more realistic Prinz Eugen. The slightly larger 1/600 scale Airfix Prinz Eugen from 1974 is an excellent starting point for a full hull model, and the more recent 1/700 scale waterline Tamiya Prinz Eugen is even better.
Despite its numerous flaws, though, the old Revell kit does assemble into a good looking little cruiser. I loved this kit as a kid back in the 1970s and had a ball building it along with its half-brothers Blücher and Admiral Hipper. It may not be up to the highest of plastic kit standards, but this inexpensive, simple model can still be a lot of fun!
(TR) review dated 31 January 2010.
Editor's Note: See notes under Hipper Class.
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
FAIR. Has a little more detail than the Airfix Queen Elizabeth, but for some reason looks kind of toylike to me from the box -- could be the molded-in railings, which take some time to remove, and the simple squares that are meant to represent windows (fill the holes and use decals instead). Deckhouses are often split in the middle, as Revell was wont to do on its older ship kits, and this gets frustrating to deal with sometimes. Hull plating and riveting looks a little bit heavy-handed. The funnels are a bit too tall and should be cut down. The davits are very crude and could stand replacement. Includes stabilizer fins for post-1955 appearance; earlier configurations can be built by filling the stabilizer holes. Not a bad kit by any means, but definitely a fixer-upper. Consult Ross Watton's book "Anatomy of the Cunard Liner Queen Mary" for all the information you need to accurize this kit. (JMP)
Editor's Notes: Dates back to 1972, maybe earlier. Once source said 1962. (DRW)
I can confirm earlier even if not exact date - an issue of SCALE MODELER magazine circa 1969 had an article on converting the model to WWII configuration. (Brooks)
Re-issued as:
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2005. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review) Not having the patience to wait for this kit to arrive in the model shops in New Zealand, I ordered from the UK. It ended up costing me with airmail US$100.00 which I thought was quite reasonable given that it arrived within 5 days of ordering. The kit retails at various different prices on the internet, so one needs to look around for the best price.
In box review shows a very fine kit with superb detail and finish. Immediately, I thought it needed photo etched railing and ladders. But so far my enquiries from the main suppliers is that there is very little demand so that railing etc. for this kit is on the back burner. Sad, because this model deserves photo etched railing and one cant really surplant 3 bar railing from 1:400 warship etched kits. She needs a mix of 6, 5, 4 and 3 bar railing with stairways that are almost circular around swimming pools on the stern area. If you cant wait for a set of photo etched railing. There is a crowd in Finland http://www.modelco.fi/ who will produce a sheet of 3 bar railing and a sheet of four bar railing with straight ladders for 28 euros each. More than enough to do the model twice over. Rather expensive as this cost is without any airmail to your home added.
I have learned from Loren Perry of GMM, that he will have a set out by December 2005 for this kit.
Anyone with a love of passenger liners will surely want this in their collection. Measuring 34 inches in length, she's big by plastic kit standards and indeed impressive. I suspect this ships looks, will grow on all as she is more majestic and somewhat conservative in her architecture when copared to some of the floating hotels out there currently cruising the Caribbean.
The hull comes in two parts and construction is simple enough. But I found the bow thruster doors ill fitting on my kit and the stabiliser arms far too loose. So it is almost beholding of you to either glue them in the out position or tucked away.
Painting of parts before construction is a must with this kit and the book of instructions is clear, well illustrated and very easy to follow.
The windows on the lower stern decks need a little fiddling and persuasion to fit in to their respective places. But patience is needed here. So don't rush at this point and use a non blooming super glue or be extra careful with a plastic solvent.
By and large the model went together very easily. So any competent modeller can put one of these ship kits together in a month of evenings or less.
I have this thing about modern lines as full hull display models. Their draft looks increadably shallow in comparison to their height above the waterline. So what with the bow thruster doors not fitting well and the stabilizer arms being a bit weak looking, I have decided to turn my model into a waterline diorama. Most of us never see ships with their hulls showing unless we spend a lot of time in a drydock situation and even then you don't get to see them in true, full hull side profile. Titanic, Maurtania and the like were much more acceptable to us as full hull models because they were less top heavy to the eye. I have built many a large scale model for clients (see my web site. www.shipmodels.co.nz) as waterline dioramas and they are much more pleasing to the ship loving eye when steaming at speed through an sea with bow wave and stern wake. This is a personal opinion so all those purists out there will probably disagree with me. But a ship of the height and size of the QM 2 deserves to be displayed how you best see fit. This is still a plastic kit and as such will never be considered a museum model.
The stand for the model is OK. But if I was to build another model of this ship and a full hull model. I would use the museum type plinths (available from http://www.bluejacketinc.com/) to support the model.
Of course another idea for this model is to build a diorama of her just being launched or in a dry dock situ or with another model kit in waterline, same scale and age to show her massive scale size. There are plastic kits of modern cargo freighters to the same scale that could be included in a diorama to show this magnificent ship size off to it's best. The possibilities are endless.
In closing. At the price, a well worthwhile modelling project. For myself, I will wait before completing the model or until one of the photo-etch companies produce their long awaited stairs and railings for this model and rebuild her. (GM)
Editor's Note: Same kit as Fletcher. (DRW)
Alternate version of Montrose.
Same kit as Forrestal. Only the earlier pre-modernization kit was issued with markings for the Ranger.
The forward gun sponsons are correct for the Ranger. It would be nearly impossible to modify the modernized kit of Forrestal or Saratoga into the Ranger, since unlike her sisters, Ranger kept her sponsons throughout her career.
It was first issued as the Ranger in 1960, as part of the "Picture Fleet" series. It was last issued circa 1971. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Reagan. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit presumably portrays the submarine from Tom Clancy's famous novel "The Hunt for Red October". I have seen at least two different versions of this kit, but I have not seen not seen either one out of its box. The box art on one version indicates a large bulb on the bow that does not belong on a Typhoon class SSBN. More recent versions (kit 4006) do not have the large bulb.
I do not know if this kit includes the extra six missile tubes or the "caterpillar" propulsion system described in the novel. See also: Revell's Typhoon class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Revell-Germany re-issue of the Skywave/DML Charles F. Adams DDG kit, presumably with some modifications. (DRW)
OK. See Midway Class, above. Kit H-307 was the original Revell Midway class kit, issued circa 1954. H-321 was a "Picture Fleet" issue circa 1961. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) This is the old FROG Revenge mold, recovered from Novo. Revell-Germany cleaned up the mold somewhat, but there's still some flash, (MUCH better than the Novo re-issue, though) and the nasty sinkholes in the 4" guns persist. Mold alignment improved over Novo, but still imperfect.
More like the Revenge than the Royal Sovereign. Forward superstructure is not correct for Royal Sovereign. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Revell-Germany issued this kit around 2001. (DRW)
Same model as Tarawa
Editor's Note: Revell-Germany re-issue of the Skywave/DML San Juan kit. It's the DML version, with the lower hull included. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit may date back as far as 1957. Kit H-322 was apparently issued around 1972. It is said to be around 11.5 inches long. (DRW)
Same kit as Forrestal, see above. H-345 was a "Picture Fleet" issue.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Italeri Forrestal kit. See also the minimal notes under Revell Forrestal-class (1/720). (DRW)
GOOD. Slightly larger and much more detailed than the Life-Like kit, and looks more like the actual ship. Detail is excellent; the reactor begs to be displayed as a separate diorama, and the main deck has the reinforcements for the breakwater molded in (although they are prone to breakage in old unbuilt issues). Best of all, the pilothouse is the right shape and size, and even has bridge windows that look right! After you saw the molded-in lifelines off and replace them with photoetch, reduce the size of the ports, and include a few standard tricks of the hobby, this kit becomes a real winner. Without question, the best of the Savannah kits. Reissued in the 1980s "History Makers" series as kit 8622.
GOOD. I have a couple of this kits. I had little trouble with the fit and while I am no expert on this ship, it look well portpotioned. The mast were not too thick, but the railings were the standard distraction.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, it was originally issued as kit H-366 around 1958. Recent Revell-Germany issue is 05235. Said to be about 18.5 inches long.
For comparison, check out these kits:
(DRW)EXCELLENT. One of Revell's best, and quite remarkable for its day.
The kit represents the Scharnhorst in her final configuration, circa 1943, with her final Atlantic bow.
Unlike many earlier Revell kits, there are no plastic railings molded into the deck or the hull! Deck planking is a little wide for this scale, but quite subtle. The 150mm secondary guns are vastly better than those on Revell's earlier Bismarck kit. Just trim down those bilge keels a bit, and remove some of the molded-into-the-deck boats, and you'll have a great model.
The kit also lends itself well to conversions, such as an updated Gneisenau with 15 inch guns, or perhaps one of the Scharnhorst's earlier clipper bow configurations.
Also check out Revell's closely related Gneisenau. The Gneisenau kit differs only slightly. Of the four sprues, three are identical, and only part of the one remaining is different.
Note that kit 05037 is the latest (2002-ish) Revell-Germany issue of this kit. Older, US issued kits are numbered H-402. This kit dates back at least to 1976, maybe even further. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. It is thus presumably a re-issue of the Casadio/ESCI kit. (DRW)
GOOD.
GOOD. Very little detail. Fit is good and the scale is about right.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
The Seeadler was based on the 1958 USCGC Eagle kit. Changes to the kit included adding yards to the mizzen mast, and changes to the small boats and deck layout. The real Seeadler was converted from an American merchant ship, and not a German Sail training ship. Information about the real ship is not plentiful, but it seems unlikely that the real Seeadler looked like this model. (WLM) Review dated 7 December 2007. Editor's Note: This kit dates back at least to 1960, since apparently kit H-382 was a 1960 issue. (DRW)
FAIR. See Essex Class SCB-125. My early 1990s Revell-Germany issued kit 5077 came with the "Trainer" aircraft set. I'm not 100% sure of this, but I think Revell may also have re-issued the Renwal 1/500 Shangri-La kit at some point, I hope with a different kit number! (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Re-issue of Skywave Type 42/1. It's the DML version with the full hull option. (DRW)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits.(DRW)
FAIR. As with many other Revell Germany's 1/1200 MINISHIPS, it has been released variously over the years by Casadio, Almark, ESCI, MPC, and probably others. This early 1970s model is a simplified, snap-together kit engineered for quick building. Because of the lack of information available on the Shinano I can't comment much on its accuracy, but it looks reasonable. The hull is recognizably a Yamato class, and the outline does mostly match the handful of surviving photographs. It has a stolid, chunky look reminiscent of Tamiya's old 1/700 scale offering. The only changes Revell has made over previous issues of the kit were new box art and decals consisting of three wide yellow lines for the flight deck.
Though simplified, the kit was thoughtfully designed. A lowered aft elevator and open hangar deck side doors, features absent even on most larger scale model carriers, enable the viewer to actually see completely through the hangar deck in places. Very cool. There are also some open panels (intakes?) on the island outboard sponson which add a sense of depth and complexity to the model, as do the see-through bridge windows. These touches do a lot to offset the model's toylike appearance. Raised porthole and scupper details seem a little heavy, but at 1/1200 they would be nearly invisible if done in-scale; the more delicately rendered flight deck details nearly disappear once painted.
Though Shinano never actually carried an air group, the model comes with a few planes. Unfortunately they are not very realistic, unrecognizable as any specific type. I glued them to the flight deck from the underside, so the large attachment pegs in them filled those awful locator holes in the flight deck above.
The numerous triple 25mm guns molded directly onto the galleries actually don't look bad. The larger 127mm guns, molded as separate units, are simplified but acceptable in this tiny scale (the model is less than 9 inches long). Strangely, the aircraft handling crane is a duplicate of that found in the battleship Yamato kit; completely wrong for Shinano. The ship's boats, also from the Yamato kit, are pretty good.
I'm not a big fan of snap-together models, but I have liked this little kit since I first built the MPC version of it when I was a kid. It is simplified and a little basic, but it builds quickly into something that looks reasonably like a Shinano. (TR) Review dated 26 January 2006
Editor's Note: Revell-Germany's 2001 re-issue of the old Aurora Skipjack kit.(DRW)
GOOD. Recent obtained this kit. It is a re-issue of the Aurora Skipjack for the late 60's. The scale is fairly close and the detail for the age of the kit is very nice. The screw is not quite correct, but the rest of the kits seems very accurate.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
This is the Revell Germany re-issue of the Matchbox Flower kit. Oddly enough, the new Revell offering can be built as either the HMCS Snowberry or the USS Saucy. The older Matchbox version of the kit also included an option to build the HMS Bluebell. I don't know why the folks at R-G decided to drop the British version.
The instruction booklet is new. It has been re-written from the original Matchbox version, and is now in 8 languages. The booklet is printed on newsprint, instead of the glossy magazine-like paper the Matchbox version was printed on. The sequence looks to be the same, and the differences between Snowberry and Saucy are clearly called out.
The one thing I miss from the original instructions is that the nice color drawings showing the different vessel's camouflage patterns have been replaced by black and white renditions. The colors are called out in an table at the start of the instructions. The colors are given by name, and with a "Revell number". I'm not sure how those numbers are supposed to match with the leading brands of paint on the market. (The old Matchbox kit used Humbrol numbers, IIRC.)
The kit is molded in three main colors. The hull parts and one sprue of deck fittings are molded in the typical Revell battleship grey. The decks are molded in a light tan, and the rest of the parts are molded in a very light blue-ish gray. (Since Snowberry is the featured model, I wish they had molded the kit in white!)
The kit also includes a sheet of decals, a paper flag sheet, anchor chain, and two spools of thread (black and tan). The parts were all well packed.
A cursory examination of the sprues showed that the parts are equal to or better than the ones that came in the old Matchbox kit. A number of parts in my old kit were out of round, caused by mold mis-alignment, which this new kit doesn't seem to have. Flash also appears to be minimal.
As I looked at the sprues, it looked to me that the parts needed to build HMS Bluebell are all still there. If you could get your hands on a copy of the old Matchbox instructions, I'm pretty sure you could build the Bluebell. (Although you'd have to come up with your own decals.)
In summary, Revell-Germany has done a nice job with this re-issue of this old kit. Compared to the old kit, this new one is a bargain. I remember the old one retailed for about $130(US), and that I grabbed mine when Squadron ran a brief special at $70. In 2001, a number of vendors and shops are offering this kit for $70 to $75, and I think full retail is only $90! (WLM)
Editor's Note: Probably a re-issue of the old Aurora kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Revell's 1982 re-issue of the old Renwal Modified Cleveland kit. (DRW)
OK. Overall the detail is nice, but to todays standards it is lacking. There are very obvious errors with this kits, but none the less this kit has a lot of potential as it provides a good foundation for a standard Cleveland class CL.
First no CLG had twin launchers aft. Two CAGs did! So right off the bat there is a huge problem. The entire aft superstructure must be built to represent the missile magazine and supporting structure to house the radar equipment and antennas. This will require a lot of research as there was a great deal of superstructure to be added. Additionally the kits seems to represent vertical loading which would, again, only be correct for a CAG! The CLG did not have sufficient hull space for vertical loading.
Another huge issue is the forward superstructure. Only the Galveston and the Topeka had two triple 6in gun mounts forward. The Galveston had a single Talos and the Topeka had a single Terrier, thus the Springfield is totally incorrect. The area around the bridge is also wrong, even for the Galveston and Topeka.
| Galveston | 2 x Triple 6in Turrets and 1 Twin Talos |
| Topeka | 2 x Triple 6in Turrets and 1 Twin Terrier |
| Springfield | 1 x Triple 6in Turrets and 1 Twin Terrier |
The hull needs to be rounded as it is somewhat flat and it will have to be widened at the waterline. Another issue with the hull is the sides cant out from the deck to the water line slightly, not straight down as repersented in the kit. This is characteristic of ships of the period that possessed a high center of gravity, thus the hull at deck level is slightly narrower than at the waterline. The plastic in the hull is pretty thick so some correction is possible but the addition of styrene along the side will be required. Bilge keels and the armor belt must also be added. The stern is correctly rounded but below the waterliine it almost a lost cause, but it is all you have. The shape below the water line in this region is mentioned above.
I suggest stealing the twin 5 inch and 40mm mounts from a Renwal North Carolina as the scale is close and the overall appearance is superior to the mounts provided. (Note on the kit's twin mounts: The barrels need to be cut off and replaced.)
This kit makes a really good Cleveland without a great deal of work and honestly it is the best choice due to the hugh rebuild required to produce any of the ships actually intended, such as a CLG conversion. If that avenue is pursued only the Galveston and Topeka are close. It can be done but it will take a lot of effort, more so than the corrections to Revell's Long Beach.
This can be displayed with postwar:
For a WWII diaroma;
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Apparently a re-issue of the DML/Dragon kit. (DRW)
POOR. This kit is basically the Flying Cloud kit, with some arbitrary changes to the main deck arrangement to yield a slightly different looking ship. The hull is the same as the Flying Cloud kit- you could take the left half from one kit and match it up with the right half form the other kit.
The changes made to the deck arrangement make no sense. Instead of the raised foc'sle of the Flying Cloud, there is a new, small deckhouse forward of the foremast. This layout is very unusual- almost all of the US clipper ships had raised foc'sles, including Stag Hound. The layout just simply doesn't match Stag Hound (or any other clipper, for that matter) at all.
My Stag Hound kit is in a 1977 box, (H-361... ed.) and has the molded plastic ratlines. The box says that the model is 1/150 scale, but if the model is really Stag Hound, then it is really 1/221 scale. (WLM)
Editor's Note: Said to be about 15 inches long when complete. The real ship was built around 1850. Kit dates back to around 1962. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same as Italeri Stennis. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same kit as Fletcher.
Editor's Note: See Asheville Class.
Editor's Note: See Buckley-Class. Issued circa 1967. (DRW)
GOOD. About 1/305 scale. A decent representation of the Coast Guard's 327' Secretary-class cutter. Also released as the USCGC Campbell. These cutters served from late 1930s to the 1980s. During their service lives, the cutters in this class carried a wide variety of armament, from a few 3" mounts to the 1944 Taney with four 5"/38 turrets.
The problem with the this kit is that Taney never carried the mix of armament in the kit. The colors, markings and guns say early 1950s, but the depth charges were removed after WW2. Overall a decent kit that can be used to represent a 327, but you'll need to do some research and pick an era.
This kit was released in the mid 80's with modern USCG markings, with no changes to the armament fit. (WLM)
GOOD. Revell's 1/303 scale U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Roger B.Taney is a golden oldie dating from 1956, originally released as the USCGC Campbell (kit H-338). A fairly accurate kit overall, it unfortunately suffers from many plastic model kit shortcomings typical of the time: indifferent parts fit, simplified weapons, heavy details, and of course those awful solid molded hand rails. On the other hand, we can be thankful that it isn't one of Revell's "flat bottom boats" the hull actually looks quite good with accurate line and sheer. It also has bilge keels, accurate hawse collars and some convincing plating effects, very nice. The kit is a straightforward build, probably designed to tap the emerging baby boomer child market of the 1950s. Early issues of the kit even had the parts divided among sprues molded in white, black, and mustard yellow plastic so kids wouldn't have to paint them! This semi-toy approach makes this kit a quick one to assemble but a bit of a challenge to detail. Still, it was one of the first plastic model ship kits ever, so I guess it can be forgiven for being less than today's state of the art. The kit has been reissued over the years as the Campbel (kit H-454 in 1966), and as the Taney (H-405 in 1975 and kit no.0405 in 1979). These later releases appeared in all white plastic with new box art and decals but were otherwise identical to the original 1956 Campbell. The model I built was the 1975 Taney issue. My father (who served aboard the Taney in the 1950s) tells me the kit is a pretty good representation of the ship as it appeared around the time of the Korean War before the depth charge tracks and k-guns on the stern and the 20mm cannon were removed. There are only a few minor inaccuracies:
Although the model builds attractively right out of the box, this one was a gift for my dad so I added some refinements including Gold Medal Models' Revell USCG Campbell/Eastwind photoetched brass upgrade set (no.300-17) and several HR Products white metal weapons. These sets and some modest scrachbuilding go a long way to bring this venerable old kit into the 21st Century.
(TR) Review dated October 2008.
FAIR. Detail is OK, but fit is reportedly poor. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
Editor's Note: Dates back at least to 1960 or so. Re-issued around 1976, (as H-365?) and again (as kit 5622) around 1988. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Revell Germany's reissue of DML's Ticonderoga, above.
GOOD. The 150mm turrets are wrong, and the molded plastic railings detract, but pretty nice overall. Mostly the same kit as the Bismarck, but with a few extra pieces (such as torpedo tubes, different funnel cap, etc.) to make it look more like the Tirpitz.
This kit dates back at least to 1964. (as H-351) 05042 is a more recent (c. 2002) Revell-Germany issue. (DRW)
FAIR. The hull is too high and a real model builder will not have so much joy building it.(ME)
FAIR. This is exactly the same kit as Bismarck. The only difference is that the waterpictures for Baltic camouflage are missing. Thus, some inaccuracies.
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. It is thus presumably a re-issue of the Casadio/ESCI kit. (DRW)
The model is 1/400 scale, which makes it a 26inch long model, which is about 4 inches shorter than the 1/350 scale Minicraft kit, at 30+ inches.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. The first thing you find out when opeing the box of the model, is that unlike the 1:2000 scale warships, the Titianic comes with a full hull and a display stand. The model contains of a one part hull, several decks that have to be added above it, the funnels and some smaller parts like cranes, boats and masts.
Compared with the other MiniShips, this kit makes a better impression, a nice detailed hull with many bulleyes, most parts fit quite good together, only some construction holes have to be enlarged that the boats fit on the deck for example. The model is not that filligran than the old 1:1200 scale Airfix ships, overall, its a good model for its size and price (about 3Euro / 3$). (ME)
GOOD. Nicely molded details and correct shapes. Another good non-warship in Miniship series.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits, and is thus a re-issue of the old Casadio kit. (DRW)
FAIR. Gun barrels need replacing, some nasty mold marks to remove, torpedo tubes look skinny. Masts on both models are too thick. (GH)
FAIR. (JP)
Editor's Note: Often sold with Ark Royal kit. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. The Type 206 is a modern GFR sub specifically designed to operate in the shallow waters of the Baltic. Kit has surface detail which fully justifies the large scale used. Modest number of parts, unusual brownish paint scheme. Comes with decals for six (but not all) boats in the class. This may also be the most butt-ugly sub ever made. Goes together well. A must-have for sub enthusiasts. (DH)
EXCELLENT. Outstanding! This polystyrene kit (kit #05019) from Revell is a 1:144 scale model of the new German designed Type 212A AIP (Air Independent Propulsion) submarine. The 212A is an interesting submarine, with a hybrid system that can use either diesel-electric or air-independent fuel cell system to generate electrical power. The kit is beautifully cast, and contains many interesting details. The kit has 32 parts, and fit is excellent, allowing one to build a very nice kit out of the box. It is molded in a tan color overall, which may seem odd, but it is very close to the actual operational colors in the German Navy. There is a great deal of very fine scribed details on the hull and deck. The upper deck is particularly rich in details, and a topside area of the plastic is molded in a subtle, finely pebbled surface to simulate the non-skid area. The four aft control surfaces are arranged in an X configuration, similar to the later Albacore stern. The ends of the control fins are tied together with cables, presumably to keep cables away from the propeller. The 6 bladed propeller is very finely molded, and matches the drydock pictures of the submarine which have been released. The sail has cutouts for deadlights, and a separate, clear plastic piece is provided to represent the deadlights. You get two tops for the sail, one with scribed hatches to represent retracted masts, and one sail top with opened hatches for the installation of seven very detailed masts of varied functions.
(TD) Review dated 31 January 2006.
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2005. (DRW)
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2004. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Revell have created another masterpiece. There's no other way to describe it. Given the limitations of creating moulds for styrene, it is difficult to conceive of how they could have produced a better, more simple or better looking kit of the U-Boat in 1/72 scale. The finished model looks very good indeed. It is menacing in shape and captures the look of the original splendidly.
You are provided with options for five different boats, two of which have camouflage patterns. In fact, U552 is represented twice, first early in the war and second as upgraded in the mid-war period with a few modifications, so actually, you are getting six possible finishes.
The first thing of note is that there are some images that are described as 1:1 scale that show you where cuts are to be made in order to create different versions. Unfortunately, those pertaining to the spray guards have been reduced during the printing process. Matching them with the parts can, therefore, be problematic. Another issue is that, in order to be followed in any language, some of the notation is a bit vague. Where different versions are being created it is not always apparent which parts they want you to use. There was an instance where I stared at a drawing for some time, trying to work out what the difference between the sequences was, only to discover that they were merely suggesting that there was a choice of colours at that point. And what the box with the exclamation marks in the bottom of section 19 is meant to advise is quite beyond me.
Most of the differences between the optional finishes are in the conning tower. The breakdown of parts allows for a number of different configurations, although by-and-large the instructions allow for two real types - an early version with the net cutters on the bow and side intakes on the conning tower - or a later type which has top intakes inside the conning tower and an antenna 'bulge' on the port side of the tower. Further early types can be built simply by omitting the spray guard from the top of the tower or changing the cut of some of the parts. This offers the possibility to build vessels from around 1938 up until 1943 when the deck was simplified on new vessels and more and greater 'Wintergarten' flak configurations were built as extensions to the rear of the control tower.
There are a number of areas where the limitations of moulding have led to compromise. This is quite normal and allows the modelmaker to stretch their creativity.
A variant of Type VII, accurately, Type VIIc. It is acceptable in dimensions and adequate in detail, though it suffers from shared parts with its origins as a "see-through" kit with complete interior (currently available too). It scales to 1/125 and is 21 inches in length. Fit is fair to good but the smaller, more delicate parts have small lines of annoying flash. For the super-detailer, the kit offers ample opportunity for lots of extras. Improvements can be made to make the U-99 kit stand out. (from SMH's review in his web page.) (??)
POOR. Overall this is an extremely poor representation of a German U-Boat Type VII B not to mention the U-99. This kit is fraught with errors that should have been caught by the manufacturer and corrected. The U-99 kit was a retooling of the U-47 kit. I find it hard to believe that Revell AG is passing this off as a U-Boat kit representing the U-99. It is obvious to me that Revell AG cares very little about historical accuracy and is pushing plastic out the door in the pursuit of the allmighty euro / dollar. This kit is not for the faint of heart it will require many hours of rework to get it close to what the actual U-99 looked like. (RBB)
FAIR/GOOD. My opinion of this kit is somewhat kinder. They got the basics right, and it can be modified into something reasonably nice without too much difficulty.
The hull's basic shape is more or less correct. I don't think that all of the bulges are as clean as they might be, but most of the curves are there. The stern is not quite pointy enough, and there seem to be some troubles in the area of the propellers.
The conning tower is also more or less correct. The basic shape seems to be that of an early VII-B, circa 1940, with no windshield.
It's certainly not perfect. The arrangement of the forward limber holes is incorrect for any Type VII. There was substantial variation within the type, so research carefully before cutting new holes. I believe that by cutting some new holes, you can correctly portray U-47. Erich Gröner's book German Warships 1815-1945 (Volume 2) has some very useful diagrams for cutting these holes correctly.
The lower net cutter appears to be misplaced. I think it should be moved up higher on the bow.
Apparently, it was originally issued as U-47, then later as U-99 and U-505. Both U-47 and U-99 were Type VIIB boats. There appear to be two different versions of this kit: a regular full hull version, and a cutaway version. The kit measures about 21 inches (53 cm) long. It dates back to at least 1976. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
I'm kind of surprised that Revell-Germany never released it as U-995...... (DRW)
It has been re-issued by
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2009.
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2009.
Editor's Note: New mold, circa 2009.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Non-cutaway version of the above kit. Oddly, it's no cheaper than the cutaway version. Nice detail & fit. Makes a nice display. Kit is from Revell-Germany, and dates back to around 1993. (DRW)
This kit has been issued as :
Presumably, the Wilhelm Bauer is a variant of this, with a different conning tower.
Editor's Notes: The end of the Cold War has brought about some confusion in nomenclature. For many years, the Soviet/Russian Project 941 SSBNs were known in the West by their NATO code name "Typhoon", and Revell labelled them as such. Since the end of the Cold War, we have learned their correct project designation and even their internal code name, "Akula" The Project 941 SSBNs (Russian "Akula", NATO code name "Typhoon") should not be confused with the Project 971 SSNs. (Russian "Shchuka-B", NATO code name "Akula")
There seem to be at least two different issues of this kit: a 1989 issue (05231) that has an incorrect bulge on the bow, and a more recent (2002?) issue that doesn't have this incorrect bulb (kit 05073). It appears to be a variant of Revell's Red October kit. (DRW)
FAIR: In box review. It does not have the large bulb on the bow as her almost twin sister also by Revell. It looks like the DML Typhoon with oversized anechoric panels. (PC)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Type VII above. Apparently, kits H-384 and 05060 are the cutaway version. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Type VII above. Kits H-408 (issued circa 1976) and 5054 (issued circa 1982) are the full hull version. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Type VII above. This kit is the wrong type for the boat they're trying to portray. The kit is a Type VII, and the real U-505 is a Type IX. If you're looking for a cheap, easy Type U-505, the old Aurora kit (later re-issued by Monogram) is a much better starting point. The old Aurora kit is at least a Type IX. (DRW)
See Type XXI, above. Kit 5081 appears to be the 1993 issue of the full-hull version.
See Type XXI, above. U-2540 seems to be the full-hull version.
OK. (based on in-box review) Worse than usual below the waterline. (Not enough draught?) Fit looks problematical. Another Revell "Flat Bottom Boat". The kit dates back to 1953, so maybe I shouldn't be so harsh. Looks decent above the waterline, although the hawsepipe on the stem looks oversized. Yes, it's got the infamous molded-into-the-deck plastic railings, but I've had little trouble removing them. (DRW)
OK. A better starting point than the Glencoe 1/400 kit, but still a fixer-upper. The model is too wide by about 1/8" to 3/16", making the world's fastest ship look really fat. Fit is fair, but parts are often simplistic. The molded-in railings are a real pain, too. As with the other flat-bottom boats, it's best to find some decent plans or drawings (I recommend finding POPULAR MECHANICS, December 1952, in a well -stocked library; this contains fold-out modelers' plans prepared in cooperation with Newport News Shipbuilding) and cut the hull off at the waterline. For a representation of the United States, it's infinitely better than the Glencoe kit, but if you want a really nice model be prepared to put in MUCH work. (JMP)
GOOD. This is the Revell Constitution kit, with a new transom and other extra parts necessary to build the additional deckhouse aft. The kit is identical to the Constitution kit in all other respects, which means it is pretty good.
Last produced in the late 70's, I think. The 44 gun frigate USS United States was built to the same plans as the Constitution and the President in the late 1790s. Each ship was built in a yard in a different city, and details were often changed by the respective Captains. United States was reputed to have had an extra deckhouse aft, which gave her a raised poop, as opposed to the flushed deck lines of the other two. The added weight and windage reportedly affected her trim and sailing qualities, and earned her the nickname "Old Wagon". (WLM)
Editor's Note: This kit is said to be about 16 inches long when complete. Possibly a re-issue of the old Monogram kit? (DRW)
Editor's Note: A collection of kits, circa 1957, including the following:
Editor's Note: Revell Germany's reissue of DML's Ticonderoga, above.
Editor's Note: Revell Germany's reissue of the Italeri kit, above.
Editor's Note: Possibly a re-issue of the Imai kit.
Editor's Note: This kit is said to be about 14 to 15 inches long when completed. Kit dates back to about 1959. Kit 05408 is a relatively recent (as of 2003) Revell-Germany issue. (DRW)
GOOD. Instructions are copyright 1959. Hull about 12 inches, transom to forepeak, and probably 15 inches to top of bowsprit overall. This model is clearly from the same designers as the 1/196 Constitution. Hull is black. On the lower two gun decks SOME gun ports are open, with separate guns on carriages to be installed on platforms like the small Constitution kit. There is a full upper gun deck, with molded in carriages but barrels to be installed separately. The ratlines are pre-formed glued thread to be cut out and glued in place. There are three plastic colors instead of the two of the Constitution, with a medium slightly reddish brown upper gun deck, with some hits of marbleizing black mixed in to give it additional color depth. Some of the fittings are also molded in this darker color. Vac-form sails; rigging thread included. Nice engraved hull and copper plating detail.
(Brooks), review dated 20 February 2006.
Editor's Note: A collection of kits, presumably released in conjunction with the famed TV series, including the following:
EXCELLENT. One of the last of the old Revell's sailing ship models, this kit was released initially in 1977 as a "Quick Build" model kit, perhaps in response to Heller's excellent but more complex Drakkar Oseberg Viking Longboat. As the moniker suggests, Revell's model is designed to be rapidly constructed with a two part hull, one part deck, and a single mast and yard. Assembly is straightforward and fast, even with the large number of smaller parts (64 shields, 32 oars and assorted smaller bits). I know next to nothing about Norse Long Ships, but the model appears to be based upon the 9th Century Gokstad ship displayed at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo, Norway. The kit matches that graceful design pretty closely, right down to the hand made look of the clinker-constructed hull planks and their variable tapering at the bow and stern. As such, the model appears to be quite accurate. A standout feature is the excellent wood grain effect throughout the kit which is clearly visible yet convincingly subtle. The gently tapered mast, yard, dragon head/tail, shields, oars, steerboard, and other details look just right. Also included is a vacuform sail and thread for rigging. Markings are extensive, with colorful emblems for the 64 shields mounted on the ship¿s sides and (in the 1977 issue) a black raven design for the sail. I built the 2007 reissue by Revell Germany which has redesigned shield decals with slightly muted colors which, in my opinion, look even better. Unfortunately they also replaced the cool looking raven for the sail with a silly Viking head design, but current research suggests that the real sails were probably unmarked except for stripes anyway, so neither of these may be accurate. In any case the problem can be avoided by depicting the sail furled, which is what I did.
I only wish this excellent kit came with crew figures. The finished model looks great, but the large scale and open design make it look a little bare without people, especially if you opt to show the oars deployed or set the billowing sail. Still, at 1/50 scale the ship is compatible with 28mm figures (a common wargaming scale), so there are probably fantasy figures available that can be pressed into service as Vikings. In any case, what is in the box is a well designed, simple to construct kit that builds into a beautiful rendition of a Viking Long Ship.
(TR) Review dated January 30, 2015.
Editor's Note: Same as Italeri Vinson. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Casadio Vittorio Veneto. One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: 3 masted barque, circa 1906. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This is apparently the same kit as the PT-73. Thanks to Bob Jenks for tipping us off about that...
Editor's Note: Possibly a Revell-Germany re-issue (circa 1984?) of the old Lindberg kit.
Editor's Note: Presumably, the same kit as Ward (DD-139), below. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Detail is very nice. Due to the simplicity of the design, upgrading and detailing are easier than on some other kits. The single biggest problem is the bridge does not fit together well at all. The part that holds up the deck is too long and must be trimmed down. The bridge begs to be detailed since it is open to the weather. There are various flaws, but most are minor and are corrected with aftermarket products or bench work.
Another big problem is 4in deck guns forward and amid-ship need detailing. Unfortunately nothing can really be done for the aft 3in gun. It is horrible and should be replaced. I think Loose Cannon may have a suitable replacement. The depth charger racks need attention. Replace the mast with brass tubing and detail the torpedo launchers.
Because of all the numerous variants used during WW2 a modeler could spend a lifetime building them all if you can be lucky enough to catch one on Ebay.
This kit has recently returned to production in Europe and some of the older boxes are still on ebay. (RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
EXCELLENT. Call me a sucker for a pretty hull, but I like this kit. Just make sure you ignore those painting instructions! One caveat: I'm not sure the "wood" deck is correct. Some others have criticized the lack of detail on the guns. This kit dates back at least to 1960, maybe further. (DRW)
GOOD. Basis of a really good model but the wood deck is indeed wrong. All USN destroyer decks were metal. (Brooks) (Editor's note: Thought so! Thanks for confirming. DRW)
EXCELLENT. The bridge does not fit together well at all. The part that holds up the deck is too long and must be trimmed down. There are various flaws, but most are minor. The aft 3in gun is horrible and should be replaced if possible. The depth chargers need attention. Replace the mast with brass tubing Because of all the numerous variants used during WW2 a modeler could spend a lifetime building them all. I love this model. (RDF)
This kit has been issued at various times as:
EXCELLENT. See North Carolina, above.
Editor's Note: Same as Revell's Polaris kit. Apparently, some early versions have only eight missile tubes instead of sixteen. I've heard that Revell had to retool this kit to add the extra tubes. This is not the same as the Renwal kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Nimitz (DRW)
FAIR. See Essex Class SCB-125. Sometimes found with Gemini spacecraft recovery set. Issued circa 1966.(DRW)
FAIR. Comments on this Revell Essex Class SCB-125 kit made by previous reviewers are pretty much on target, although the notorious too-narrow hull may be a bit overstated: the SCB-125 Wasp's beam was 101 feet (1212 inches), or 2.253 inches in 1/538 scale. Revell's SCB-125 kit beam is 2.125 inches, which is less than a 1/8 inch (5.74 scale feet) too narrow, which isn't that bad on a model nearly 20 inches long. The problem is that the hangar deck bulkheads are too far inboard of the hull sides in order to accommodate the heavy solid railing and excessively wide walkways. This exaggerates the apparent narrowness of the hull and throws off the escalator on the hull side so it doesn't match up with the piece alongside the island on the flight deck above. Reducing the width of the walkways on the hangar deck sides (parts 7, 10, 18, and 20) by about 1/16 inch port and starboard to widen the hangar deck will mostly fix this. In addition to the issues previously noted for all the Essex Class SCB-125 kits, I would also recommend removing the raised planking detail from the poop deck (part 1), the main stern deck (part 2), platform deck aft (part 3), sponsons (parts 5L,12, 16, 21R, 22L) and the various island decks (41-45) as these were all unplanked steel. Oddly, Revell designers chose to depict the one deck which actually was planked, the flight deck, without any planking detail at all!
This particular release is the Wasp (CVS-18) issued in 1966, which comes with ship-specific decals and the Gemini spacecraft recovery set including four A-4 Skyhawks, six F-8 Crusaders, six S-2 Trackers, four SH-3 Sea King helos as well as a tiny Gemini capsule. The kit as is can represent the Wasp fairly well, but there are a number of changes needed to make an accurate CVS-18 Wasp of the Gemini recovery period (June 1965-November 1966):
Other worthwhile refinements to make the most of this classic kit might be to add:
Despite its age (the original kit dates back to 1957), Revell's SCB-125 Wasp remains an appealing model and can provide a solid starting point for an accurate 1965-6 Gemini recovery carrier-which is fortunate since, at least until someone decides to release another large scale SCB-125, this kit remains the only game in town!
(TR) Review dated 15 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Postwar Conversion of Type XXI submarine to research boat. Presumably based on the Revell Type XXI. (Brooks)
Editor's Notes: This kit dates back at least to 1970. Said to be 14.75 inches (37.5 cm) long.
It has been released as:
It has been re-issued by
(DRW)Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. This kit has a very nice looking hull. Even the bilge keels are right. I also like the engraved flight deck. Unfortunately, the propellers are a bit odd. The blades are fairly nice, but the centers are too cylindrical. This can be corrected with some work. The guns aren't terribly good looking. The 5-inch guns seem kind of flat somehow. The light AA guns along the flight deck on the Enterprise variant are particularly bad. Aircraft are all SBDs in most issues, however this kit has been released as Hornet once with a set of B-25s for the Doolittle raid. This kit apparently dates back to the late 1960s. It was still in production in 1997.
This kit has been issued at various times as:
The CV-5, CV-6 and CV-8 kits have some specialized parts to make the model more correct for each individual ship. The Battle of Midway kit may be the best of the bunch, as it includes the extra parts which allow the builder to make any one of the Yorktown class. (DRW)
FAIR. These are boxed as different kits but are actually the same kit with different decals. You can snap them together or glue. Kit include B25's for the Doolittle raid. Has very sparse hangers, but you can place aircraft there. There are holes in the flight deck and hangar deck to place the a/c. (JF)
Editor's Note: One of Revell-Germany's "Miniships" kits. (DRW)
FAIR. See Essex Class SCB-125.
FAIR. Special run produced for Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum for sale in gift shop aboard USS Yorktown. Same kit as USS Wasp issue (H-375) but with new decals, instructions and box. The box used the same painting as the USS Wasp issue, but cropped to remove the Gemini spacecraft and the hovering Sea King. One of the rarest and most desired issues by collectors.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017. Editor's Note: Apparently, Revell only issued their SCB-125 kit once as the Yorktown CVA-10, around 1975. The box shows an air group including F-8 Crusaders, A-4 Skyhawks and Sea King helos. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Same kit as Fletcher. Apparently issued by Revell-Germany as Z-1 sometime in the 1980s. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) This is a re-issue of the old Matchbox Narvik-class kit. I remembered Mike's review, and bought one when I saw one for sale cheap. Mike was right! This one is pretty good, and indeed, it scores some points over its SkyWave/Greenmax rival.
The hull is unquestionably better than the SkyWave version. That alone should make it a better starting point. The portholes are nicely implemented. The hull is in three pieces, and with a separate deck. That should make it much easier to paint.
Also on the plus side, the mine rails on the deck are much lighter than the too-heavy rails on the SkyWave kit. The only downside is that you'll have to use very thin paint to avoid covering them up.
I don't like the guns as much, especially the twin mount forward. Matchbox was trying to allow the guns to elevate, and they may have compromised too much on the twin mount. Also, the light AA guns seem a bit heavy.
The Revell re-issue also features an impressive instruction sheet, with camouflage schemes for a number of different ships.
Overall, Revell has produced a good re-issue of a classic Matchbox kit. (DRW) Review dated 23 March 2012
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the ITC Clermont kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the ITC France kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The hull is said to be 20 inches long. It seems to be a re-issue of the ITC Graf Spee kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the ITC Savannah kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the ITC US Sub Chaser kit. (DRW)
FAIR. This World War One subchaser was originally released by ITC (kit 3682) in the 1950s-60s and most recently by Glencoe (kit 7301) in the 1990s. I couldn't find any date on the Ringo version, but it appears to date from sometime in the 1960s. The boxtop bills it as "The Navy's Rough and Rapid 'Killer' Patrol Boat", and the 18 inch long model certainly looks the part with its spartan layout and sleek profile. Scaling out slightly larger than its purported 1/74, it would display nicely with the numerous 1/72 PT boat or submarine models out there. The kit is a simple molding with hull broken down conventionally along the keel with a separate one-piece deck and slab sided deckhouse. Although the basic shapes appear accurate, fit is not very good. The hull on my example was warped, and the deckhouse parts required a lot of adjustment to fit. The black plastic parts are not very well molded, and flash and sink holes abound. Surface detail is minimal and sometimes questionable. For example, plank edges are delineated with raised lines, and the designation "A-V SC96" on the hull appears in raised characters over the top of these! No decals are provided. Smaller parts are useable but mostly unimpressive. Although the anchors, hatches, vent cowls, and depth charge throwers aren't bad, the barrel on the Poole gun is oval rather than cylindrical in section, and the sides of the ship's boat are excessively thick. Details on the ends of the depth charges are overstated, and the railing stanchions molded along the deck edge are too thick and too short. The fit of the pilothouse parts is also rough, requiring a bit of adjustment to look right, and although depicted on the box art, no railings are provided for the roof. Pilothouse windows are molded open, but no window glass, wheel or binnacle are included, so it looks pretty empty in there. None of these shortcomings is serious and all can all be overcome, but it takes some extra work. My biggest gripe with this kit is the propulsive gear. The model was apparently designed to be a runner with a massive, grossly inaccurate cylinder protruding from the hull centerline to accommodate a single, poorly molded screw. Strangely, no motor or gearbox is included (perhaps they were in the original ITC issue). No other props or shafts are provided, even though these ships had a three-propeller configuration. Fortunately Glencoe's 1990s re-release addressed this problem with a revised tooling which eliminated the cylinder and provided the proper three shafts and screws, so if you want to build one of these boats that version rather than the earlier Ringo or ITC issues would be a better starting point. This is an older kit that definitely shows its age, but it can still be assembled quickly out of the box into an acceptable model.
(TR) Review dated 3 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the ITC kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The hull is said to be 23 inches long, completed kit is said to be 27.5 inches long. 123 parts, vacuformed sails. Issued circa 1966. Possibly a re-issue of an ITC kit. (DRW)
(TR) dated 3 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of the old Casadio mold. Read Tim Reynaga's review of the Revell re-issue of this kit. (DRW)
Bill Swan reported that they went out of business in early 2008, however, apparently as of late 2011, they are apparently back, under different management. Details are still sketchy, as of this writing. (March 2012)
Samek's old address was:
HaPM s.r.o.
Jerevanská 3
PRAHA 10
100 00
| Alaska | Bechelaren | Bismarck | Dunkerque | Guam | Heisternest |
| Hela | K-162 | Königsberg | Leipzig | Novgorod | Nubian |
| Nürnberg | R 3-7 (subs) | Razumnyj | Royal | Saar | Taschkent |
| Tartar | Texas | Tirpitz | York | Z-17 | Z-19 |
| Z-28 |
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin kit with photo-etch fret consisting of anchors, anchor chain, cranes, catapults, radar and 20 mm battery. One piece hull is cleanly cast and highly detailed. All other parts are cast on a mixture of extremely thin wafers and pour plugs or stubs. Good detail on all parts. No flash, sinkholes, pinholes or other nasty resin faults. You will need a bit of metal rod or tubing to fabricate masts and spars.
Directions:: included are ships history, in English, exploded view assembly diagrams of various subassemblies as well as a master diagram. Diagrams are competent and useful. Also included is a somewhat suspect paint scheme, it would be best to do some research before committing to the boxed instructions.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with ship's painting as box art. All parts are bagged and then taped to the bottom of the box. My kit arrived with quite a few broken parts as a result of the haphazard packaging. No peanuts or bubble were was used to cushion the parts in transit so expect to replace some parts when you get the kit.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
I really wanted to rate this one as EXCELLENT, but I found a couple of minor flaws in the example I opened for inspection. I'm almost embarrassed to criticize such a good kit, but for the cost of a resin kit, it should be nearly perfect.
On the plus side, pretty much everything Bill Swan said is true. It is really nice in most respects. The detail is lovely. It looks quite accurate.
Alas, on the example I inspected, the hull had some flash on it. It was nothing a reasonably advanced modeller couldn't handle, but resin kits are expensive.
Another minor nit-pick is the deck. It isn't planked at all. Now, in 1/700 scale that might be excusable, but many more recent resin 1/700 kits do have planked decks. Also, the instructions indicate that the deck should be tan. In the aerial photos I have of the Alaska-class, the decks were camouflaged to match the sides.
I certainly am not condemning this kit. In most respects, it is quite good, and it can certainly be built into an impressive model. And when it came out, it was almost the only game in town. Maybe my standards have gotten higher in my old age. So, Bravo Zulu to Samek for making this kit.
(DRW), review dated December 4, 2021.
Editor's Notes:217 resin parts, 105 photoetch parts. Portrays the ship in 1945. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin model with stainless steel photo etch fret included which consists of anchors, anchor chain, cranes, davits, braces, catapult, AA guns, pulley assemblies, starfish and ladders. All parts are cast in yellow resin with no flash and lots of detail. One piece hull incorporating lower superstructure with much finely cast detail and excellent deck planking. Parts are cast on a mix of wafers and plugs. Wafers are very thin and easily removed. Small parts on plugs may present some problems removing them without damage. You will need some brass rod or tubing for masts and spars and I would also suggest the purchase of brass main battery gun barrels to really make this kit pop. This is a very nice kit well worth the purchase price.
Directions:: no painting instructions but a very nice set of exploded view assembly diagrams. Also included is a brief history and basic statistics with line drawings of the ship.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a color drawing of the ship as box art. PE secured to a foam block which in turn helps to secure the hull along with tape. Other parts are in baggies, taped to the bottom of the box. However, with no other packing materials like peanuts, baggies came loose and many of the small parts were damaged.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
GOOD. A resin ship with a small PE and decal. Represents this Tribal class destroyer in 1940. Hull and superstructure is very crisply detailed and easily built. One oddity is that the blast shields protecting A and Y guns are represented with PE. This works reasonably well if being a little "2D". The fore and main tripod masts are also represented in PE but as the steel used is very soft, I built them out of brass rod using the PE as templates. I used a WEM Pom-Pom as the alternative was building it out of 9 parts! Hull railings came from WEM, the upper ones are molded solid and were so fine that I left them. Overall a very good model and currently the only choice in this scale. (GS)
Editor's Notes: 217 resin parts, 105 photoetch parts. Portrays the ship in 1945. Presumably the same kit as Alaska, above.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: The USN classified this ship and her sister USS Alaska as large cruisers, a hardly useful appellation. Most of the attributes of the ship would seem to conform to the requirements of a battle cruiser so that's the way I classified it, floats like a duck, acts like a duck and quacks like a duck.
Kit Parts, directions and Packaging please see my remarks for the Samek Models #S700/004 USS Alaska as the ships are almost identical.
Further note: it would appear that Samek Models, (as of this writing) is no more should the modeler wish to assemble this subject and the Alaska and cannot find an example of these kits in the marketplace be aware that Midship Models is issuing retooled versions of the old Classic Warships Alaska at present and I understand will reissue the Guam as well.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Notes:92 resin parts, 23 photoetch parts. Portrays the ship in 1929.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: method and quality of castings the same as found in Samek Models S700/006 KM Leipzig. However, improved ships boats are included along with resin cast gun barrels. Similar photo etch included. Tiny parts cast into the thin wafers may cause some modelers difficulty in cleaning up and removal from the wafers without causing damage. No materials for masts, yards or cranes so a supply of brass rod or tubing will be necessary to complete the kit.
Directions: and Packaging similar to the Leipzig. I was not so lucky with this kit with regard to damaged parts. There was nothing not fixable but it is annoying when the solution would have been some packing materials.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Represents ship in 1940 For comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin model that includes brass photo etch for the cranes, anchors, chains and other small items. The ship is cast in a tan resin with the hull and lower level of superstructure as one piece. The hull casting is clean for the most part with minor flashing around the waterline which will be easy to remove. Portholes are cast into the hull and superstructure parts but other details are not (such as hatches, ladders, pipes, etc). The remainder of parts are cast on extremely thin wafers that will be easily cleaned up before assembly. Splinter shields are admirably thin. There are however, no gun barrels cast for the main or secondary battery. The directions suggest stretched sprue. There are also no parts included for the masts and yards. Obviously, the modeler will need to have on hand various dimensions of brass rod or tubing to provide the missing parts. The ships boats are curiously devoid of detail as well. Considerable effort will be required to detail these boats to avoid having simple boat shapes. All in all a cleanly cast kit with the required basics to create a convincing model of a rare subject.
Directions:: consist of two fold out sheets of double sided paper. The first sheet contains a brief history of the ship and her class along with a list of the relevant statistics. The reverse contains a grainy black and white photo reproduction of the actual ship and line drawings of starboard and overhead views. There is also a small insert drawing of the scout plane. The second sheet offers exploded line drawings of the assembly process and parts location on each side. They appear to be adequate to get the job done. You will need to research painting instructions on your own.
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with a sketch of the ship on the box top. The parts are contained in a thin plastic bag attached to the bottom of the box. In my kit there was no packing material to keep the parts from banging against each other and breaking. Luckily there were no broken parts in my kit but that was strictly good fortune.
Note: Samek appears to be out of business so these models will be hard to find but they are worth doing so to complete your collection of Kriegsmarine ships.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the Leipzig in 1939. Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Briefly, the kit appears accurate and parts come enclosed in a plastic bag, hull is waterline only,a small sheet of etched brass is included for smaller details,instructions are adequate although the translation is not so good. Two profile views show Nurnberg in grey in 1937, and a camouflaged scheme for spring 1943 off Norway. (JS)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: see my remarks for Samek Models S700/006 KM Leipzig. Exceptions being that differences between the ships is reflected in the parts and directions and that the ships boats are more detailed in this version. Directions differ in providing a camouflage pattern for the 1943 version, at least for the port side of the ship.
(WJS), review dated 3 March 2008.
Portrays the subs in 1933.
GOOD. There are two Minesweeper (fitting as of 1933) in the box. The ships are in resin and small in size, about 4cm. There are no additional parts in resin to add, but two identical photoetch frets with the railing, weapons and 8 Figures in different positions are included.
Also in the box is a small decal sheet with flags. The casting is very well done with fine detailing and even the small vents are cast on. There is only little cleaning of flash at the waterline necessary. The instruction sheet is of one page with a small but adequate picture of the model and no text description or painting tips. (UB)
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with a sheet of photo-etched parts consisting of; anchors, anchor chain, platforms, braces, cranes, radar, catapult, ladders and 20 mm AA battery. It has an absolutely gorgeous one piece hull incorporating fantastic deck detail and is flawless. Also included with the kit is a set of decals with ship's name and numbers. The various resin parts are cast in different color resins and all are very cleanly cast with good surface detail. The parts come on a combination of very thin wafers and a variety of pour plugs and stubs. Some difficulty may be encountered removing the smaller parts from the stubs without damaging them but this is not really critical as I have seen with other kits using this method. A big plus is the incorporation of blast bags on the turret molding, on the down side the main battery barrels are cast in resin on a pour plug (at least they aren't all covered in flash and on a wafer as thick as a brick). I would recommend the purchase of brass barrels to make this kit a real knockout. Otherwise you have everything you need in the box except railings.
Directions:: one page of basic statistics on the ship (in English) backed by photos of completed areas of the deck with drawings of a 3-inch gun and a float plane, the next page is faced with line drawings and camouflage guides to two schemes for the ship, next are exploded view diagrams of various subassemblies, then last is a general exploded view of the major assembly diagram.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a color reproduction of a painting of the ship as the box art. The hull is isolated in the box with a large block of foam, all parts are in tiny little baggies and then laid atop bubble wrap which covers the foam and hull. Very secure packing technique that minimizes damage.
(WJS), review dated 4 February 2006.
OK. I have this one buried in my collection somewhere, so I'm doing this from long-ago memory. It was decent for its day, (long ago) but a bit dated by modern standards. The draft is rather deep, and the detail is minimal. (DRW)
GOOD. Represents her in her final fit, with Standard, Harpoon,
Tomahawk, Phalanx. Well cast, with a few pinholes and little overpour.
Even includes shallow alignment lines for the parts to be added.
However, you'll need _four_ of the detail sets - E-1, E-4, E-6, and the
SW-32 modern weapons set for the Tomahawk ABLs. (You could also take
the ABLs from any of several companies' Spruance class DD models.)
The model is rather accurate, though the fos'cle is noticeably
fore-shortened. The lattice after mast is also missing the cross
supports; you'll need some stretched sprue, brass, or thin plastic, and
a reference photo or plans.
The painting instructions are also slightly wrong, since the LB
had two different "horizontal" colors: one a dark gray non-skid, and
the other a medium gray similar to modern haze grey in hue, but
lighter. Be sure to find color references for yourself. (JP)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
| Asama | Fuji | Itsukusi | Izumo | Matsushima | Mikasa | Yashima |
EXCELLENT.
Beautifully molded plastic kit. Parts fit well. Assembly instructions and painting guide are in Japanese but are intuitively understandable.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts and Directions: see my review of Seals models #01 Mikasa. Directions are actuallyl better than the Mikasa kit. As to packaging the effect is similar except that the back of the box features alternative paint schemes for the Victorian Era colors. Very nice.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
EXCELLENT.
Very nice kit, parts are perfectly molded. My copy is High-Grade kit which includes PE for ship's decorations fore and aft. Very well done.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
EXCELLENT. Seals Models kits among the best injection-molded kits. Common sprues a great asset. Overall level of detailing superb. Variant: sistership Iwate with minor differences
EXCELLENT.
Interesting kit which comprises of amazing resin hull and superstructure parts, and conventional injection-molded plastic sprues found in Itsukushima/Hashidate kit. Given some patience and creative scratchbuilding one may build two ships from this kit. Infact, class was thought as pairs of armoured cruisers one with main gun aft, and another one having it fore. So, this kit could be used to build both.
(AS), Review dated 7 April 2010.
EXCELLENT. The Seals Models Mikasa is beautiful. It's molded as crisply as the best Skywave ships. No flash at all on my kit. In many cases, the parts virtually snapped together.
For example, the deck fits into the hull without a trace of a gap. The only gripe I had is that the instructions are in Japanese and it can be difficult to figure out which parts go with which version.
I've read a review that criticized the smaller guns as being oversize, but you could say the same about the Skywave kits.
The kit comes with lots of extras that will probably be used on future pre-dreadnought kits. You could even use them on Modelkrak ships. (MF)
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded kit that does not include any photo etch. The molding is crisp and all surfaces are highly detailed. This is a gorgeous gem of a kit. Anyone looking for a superb example of a pre-dreadnought in plastic need look no further. While injection molding will always produce some parts that are over scale the surface detail comes close to that which is achieved by resin. This kit is hard to find in the USA but regularly shows up on eBay from Japanese vendors. It is well worth the price.
Directions:: very good line drawings with Japanese text. No rigging instructions and paint choices should be explored as to time that the modeler wishes to depict. This ship wore both the bright colors of the Victorian Era and war time gray.
Packaging: Typical injection molded carboard box opening at the ends. Gorgeous painting of the ship in war time colors on the box top with Japanese text on the back concerning a map of the action at Tsushima.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts and Directions: see my review of Seals models #01 Mikasa. Directions are improved over the already very good ones found in Mikasa. As to packaging the effect is similar except that the back of the box features alternative paint schemes for the Victorian Era colors. Very nice.
(WJS), review dated 29 February 2008.
GOOD. Hull is very well done, with correct three propeller stern arrangement for this class. My impression is that the Fenik's bow sonar is not as bulbous as it should be. The kit provides the large sail as a separate resin piece from the hull. The masts are white metal, although only three are provided, and the rest must be fashioned from brass rod. There is also a large radio mast of white metal the installs along the side of the sail, and the small active topside sonar is also made of white metal, as is a venturi screen for the top of the sail and the three 5 bladed propellers. One of the three missile hatches on top of the sail is open (the other two are scribed in nicely), with a hinged cover provided in resin. A resin SS-N-5 missile is provided. No decals with this earlier Pit Road kit. Instructions in Japanese, but diagrams of assembly are provided. Overall rating of very good. (TD)
Addendum Further research on the Golf II after the initial kit review was written has revealed the following. Compared to the 1960's Aurora Golf kit (styrene), this resin kit is more accurate. However, the hull shape more closely approximates the older Zulu V SSG (based on the Whiskey hull) rather than the Golf II, based on the Foxtrot hull. The bow shape and "stepped" sonar dome are probably that of a Zulu. The stern (resembling a Type XXI) is correct (The Aurora Golf stern is horribly wrong). Above the waterline, the sail appears correct for a Golf II. The missile provided appears to be an SS-N-4 and is modeled in the elevated (firing) position. This missile was only surface launched after it was elevated most of the way out of the tube. The SS-N-4 was installed only in the Golf I, which resulted in a somewhat different shaped sail. The Golf IIs shot SS-N-5 missiles of greater range, and these could be launched from underwater by compressed air. Thus the kit, released in the early 1990's, appears to be an amalgam of several former Soviet Naval SSBs.(TD)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. A 1:350 scale resin kit with resin and white metal detail parts. No flash to remove from resin pour of hull; some flash on kit components. Highly accurate rendition of this unusual 1950's diesel powered submarine that has two large bow hangers to store Regulus missiles. This submarine carried out deterrance patrols off the Soviet Kamchatka peninsula, armed with nuclear tipped Regulus I cruise missiles. Kit includes a detailed Regulus II missile (this much larger, supersonic version of Regulus I was actually test launched from Grayback just prior to Regulus II program cancellation). Instructions are in Japanese, but well illustrated. Modeler must build propeller struts from styrene strips, which takes some minimal skills. Very nice decals included. Builds into a highly unusual display that attracts attention.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
EXCELLENT. A very nice resin hull with minimal work needed to be done on it. Same sanding needed to remove faint seam lines, with special attention to the regions between the corrugated area over the deck hanger. Sail fit is excellent, with resin guiding slot in the hull; a little excess resin had to be trimmed and sanded off the base of the sail to get a proper fit onto the hull. The stern planes in this kit are made of resin, as are the bow planes. The propeller shafts are brass rod, supplied with the kit. A bit of scratchbuilding is necessary. You need some thin plastic strips to make propeller support struts for the stern propeller bracing. A full set of masts are supplied, cast in resin. The two 4 bladed propellers are in white metal. A resin launch ramp and resin Regulus I missile go up on deck. Nice detail in an intricate set of ballast flood vents along the bottom of the hull, nicely scribed torpedo tube and sonar window, and a well done set of prominent bilge keels. A small drawback is the deck safety tracks; raised lines instead of scribed tracks. Good decal sheet. Instructions in Japanese, but diagrams & drawings make assembly clear. Very high marks overall for this kit. (TD)
GOOD. Resin kit in 1:350 scale of Russian cruise missile firing diesel submarine built in the 1960's. These subs were built as a diesel powered counterpart to the nuclear powered Echo class, which carried the same cruise missiles. Their role was to fire cruise missiles at US carrier battlegroups. Little flash to remove from hull, some minor flash on resin components; all resin kit, no white metal. No decals provided with kit. Appears to be highly accurate topside, as compared to the former Soviet Navy Juliett class submarine on display in Providence, RI. The submarine missile tubes, which elevate for firing, can be built raised or flush with the deck. The elaborate titanium "front door" radar guidance system, which was mounted on the front of the sail and rotated into position, is modeled in the closed position only. Highly unusual looking model. Instructions in Japanese, but well illustrated.
(TD), review dated 15 November 2003.
Editor's Note: we don't know why this is different from kit WF-10.
Out of production.(2001)
EXCELLENT. The Nautilus is a crisp rendition of SSN-571, complete with ballast flood grates on the bottom of the hull. It matches the Jim Christley drawings in Norman Friedman's "US Submarines since 1945" (Naval Institute Press). Absent from the resin kit was the usual thick resin molding plug that has to sanded off the model. The torpedo tubes and sonar window are delicately scribed in, as are the topside deck, emergency buoy cover and other details. The separate resin sail has the double row of deadlights, running lights, a cockpit, the diesel diffuser fins for the snorkel and a nice set of white metal masts that appear to be correct. Fit of the sail to the notch in the deck was excellent, with little sanding necessary. The rudders are absolutely correct in shape, and molded in resin as part of the main hull. The stern planes and propeller shaft housings are done in white metal. Fit on these is good, with little alignment tabs to help guide the pieces to the hull. The propellers are white metal, 5 bladed as they should be, and of opposite pitch. There is a nice set of decals with the kit. Downsides to the kit are few- The instructions are all in Japanese, but the drawings make everything pretty clear. There are some light seams that need to be addressed on the bottom of the hull and the top near the bow and stern. A minor annoyance is the inexplicable representation of the topside safety track as a raised line. All in all, though, I give this kit very high marks. (TD)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
Out of production.( 2001)
They also have two lines of resin ship kits, called Waveline and Hi Mold
Check out their web page. (DRW)
In Japanese.
GOOD/EXCELLENT. The horizontal braces are missing from the tripod mast,but that's fixed easily enough. Stunning detail for a kit this small. (JMP)
Editor's Notes: Re-issued in 1996 by DML/Dragon with a lower hull. Skywave has issued this kit as:
See Unryu Class.
See Yamagumo-class.
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. Very nicely molded, and significantly better than its older Matchbox competitor. My only criticism is that the 5" mounts from the E-6 set are a little bit narrow. It can be built as one of the earlier ships, such as San Juan and San Diego, or as one of the later ships of such as Oakland or Flint. It comes with two different bridges.
The mold has been sold to DML/Dragon. The E-6 parts set used for this kit apparently went with it. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Parts: 8, including aircraft, landing gear and gear doors.
FAIR. Suffers mostly in comparison with 1/700 plastic aircraft. Substituting plastic card for the too-thick white metal doors would be a simple mod. Detail: Fair, adequate for metal but not as good as their plastic 1/700th offerings. I've also seen better metal casting. The "kit" assembles cleanly, but modelers must scrounge their own references. Squadron/Signal's B-36 Peacemaker in Action is the best reference I found. Pit-Road supplies a decal sheet from their West Wings 1 kit (C-141/F-117, Harrier, etc.) from which the modeler can scrounge the national insignia, but any unit insignia, or the "UNITED STATES AIR FORCE" on the fuelage side will have to be scrounged or hand painted. On a $21.00 US kit I find this inexcusable. (LLB)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
Editor's Notes: Issued around 2004. Presumably, their Tirpitz is similar.(DRW)
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Mold sold to Tamiya.
Same kit as Sovremenny.
GOOD. An all plastic model with two ships in the box. Parts are included for a Cannon Class DE although no instructions. The superstructure is quite complex to construct with five parts making up the bridge. However this allows great detail to be moulded into the surfaces. The instructions are mainly in Japanese and are reasonably good although they give no information on the RN ships and how they differed from their American cousins. (GS)
Mostly the same as the Ticonderoga-class, except that there is an extra "C" sprue, with two Mk 41 VLS arrays on it, so that you can make CG-52 and later ships. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Represents a "Flight I" Burke-can. Very detailed, and it fits together quite well. My only complaint is some nasty sink marks in the hull, which required a bit of filling. (DRW)
EXCELLENT.
This is a plastic kit with decals. All parts are just loaded with molded in detail of a high quality. This kit is almost perfect. There are only two minor annoyances. For some reason this producer prefers to offer raised lines on the helicopter landing area for the modeler to paint rather than provide a set of decals. This does spoil scale effect somewhat but is a minor quibble in an otherwise outstanding kit. The other minor quibble I had with the kit was the fit of the base plate to the hull at the waterline. It was a bit oversized and had to be sanded to shape. Not much of a criticism but the second of only two. When you buy a kit and these are your only worries, you don't really have any!
The addition of a photo etch detail set from the after market will make this really pop. The kit was easy to assemble and the well detailed parts fit without a great deal of sanding other than the injection points. The directions were easy to follow and the color illustration on the back of the box assisted in painting.
I would highly recommend this kit to anyone looking for a modern USN subject, especially a beginning modeler trying out his first ship in this small scale. The finished product seems to really capture the look of the actual ship.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. USS Callaghan DD792 (late series Fletcher class) modelled in instructions, but only a grey scheme supplied in painting instructions. Parts and instructions for earlier Fletcher class bridge are supplied, as are different armament layouts for early/late types. Moldings are very nice, but I think the 20mm guns are oversized.
For a laugh, read the history of the class (from the instructions): "FLETCHER CLASS is a masterpiece destroyers pertain to US NAVY, WW-II. Round bridge is PREVIOUS TYPE. Square bridge is LATTER TYPE. The total 175 completion, for 1942-45 going into commission. The class is following ALLEN M. SUMNER CLASS and GEARING CLASS of the original form, it's design of the most excellene. 16 FLETCHER CLASS is dead in WW-II, but other destroyers has be activity. After the war, it transfer not only one's own country but every country works. And FLETCHER CLASS exist even now." Whew!
Decals provided for DD537 The Sullivans, DD661 Kidd, DD663 Heywood L. Edwards and DD691 Mertz. Numbers provided for (late type): DD532 Heermann, DD534 McCord, DD537, DD541 Yarnall, DD593 Killen, DD661, DD663, DD691, DD804 Rooks, and (early type):DD445 Fletcher, DD448 La Vallette, DD450 O'Bannon, DD468 Taylor, DD477 Pringle, DD499 Renshaw, DD500 Ringgold, DD509 Converse, DD553 John D. Henley, DD574 John Rodgers. Both sides camouflage info given for DD448, DD532, DD541, DD593. (GH)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. I really loved all the spare parts (bridge and weapons configurations) the kit includes; it's even possible to build some of the postwar configurations from this kit. Can't recommend it highly enough. (JMP)
GOOD. A derivative of the earlier Fletcher kit, with extra parts for post-war variants. I count no less than six bridge variants in this kit! While this kit has much to recommend it, (and Gernot and Jodie have told most of the kit's good points) I have to point out some bad points. From the main deck up, it's really good except for the main guns. The 5 inch mounts are almost cubical. Skywave made a better set themselves in the E-6 set, which is, alas, no longer available. (as of 2002) The hull gets a bit of criticism as well, especially in the area of the bow. It's too much of a clipper bow. Fletchers had a nearly straight stem. This is especially evident if you get the lower hull from the Skywave "Dock" kit. (kit orange-7)(DRW)
2 models per box.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
See Chitose class.
GOOD. Represents CL-55 as built, with dual boat cranes and boat platform amidships; this configuration didn't last long, and mild to moderate rework will be required depending on what period you wish to depict. Expect typical early-1990s Skywave fit and detail, which is generally good, though dated by modern standards. The Miami boxing is essentially the same kit with some mild updates, notably the later "square" bridge.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
This kit has been reissued by:
Editor's Note:Apparently, same as C. F. Adams.
GOOD. Includes a wide variety of US and Soviet weapons, such as an ASROC launcher, some Harpoons, a 5-inch/L54 Mk 42, a 76 mm OTO Melara gun, som Tomahawk ABL launchers, a NATO Sea Sparrow, Soviet 76mm twins, Soviet 100mm single mounts, Phalanx guns, etc. It even has the superstructure parts needed to convert a Krivak I into a Krivak II. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Two sprues of mostly US stuff, including
and much more! The original E-1 mold was apparently sold to DML/Dragon along with the Perry-class, Spruance-class and Ticonderoga-class molds, (each of which contained one E-1 sprue) sometime around 1995 or 1996. (DRW)
Editor's Note: There is a _newer_ version of this that now includes AH-1 and CH-46 helos, and dropped some items, too. They are both called E-1 sets, the new one has a big NEW on the side. (JP)
GOOD. Two sprues. A peculiar mix of USN and NATO equipment. It's really handy for doing modern RN stuff. Each sprue inludes
Editor's Note: Mold has been sold to DML/Dragon, as part of the deal for the Type 42 destroyers.
EXCELLENT. Two sprues of mostly US stuff, including
and much more! The original E-1 mold was apparently sold to DML/Dragon along with the Perry class mold.(DRW)
EXCELLENT. Two sprues, with lots of useful equipment, including the new model 130 mm twin gun, the SA-N-7 single launcher, and quadruple SS-N-22 launchers. Older equipment includes SA-N-3 twin rail launchers (no Head Light directors, though) RBU-6000 rocket launchers, and 76mm twin and 100mm single guns. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Mold had apparently been sold to DML/Dragon, as part of the deal for the Sovremenny, though as of 2005, the E-8 set is on SkyWave's web site.
EXCELLENT. Mostly destroyer-type equipment, secondary armament, etc. You get enough 5 inch/38 Mk 32 guns to do an entire Atlanta class CLAA! (or the South Dakota!) A grand total of eight twin 5 inchers! Unfortunately, the Mk 32s are a little narrow. Skywave's E-9 set provides a better set, though not as many. The 40mm are quite nice. Torpedos, gun directors, Hedgehogs, and other stuff are included too. You even get a couple of post-war 5 inch/54 Mk 39 single and 3 inch/50 twin guns.
One interesting oddity: The 5"/L38 Mk 30 single mount guns have barrels that fit badly into the mount. I think that Skywave simply reused the barrels from the Fletcher class, whose inferior 5" mounts had a wider slot for the barrel. You'll need to do some trimming and sanding.. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Mold has been sold to DML/Dragon as part of the deal for the Atlanta-class CLAA mold. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. In some ways, this kit replaces the E-6 set. It includes a nicer set of 5 inch/38 Mk 32 guns than the E-6, but you only get six mounts. You also get some 6-inch/47s for Brooklyns or Clevelands, some 1.1 inch quads, plus some torpedoes, 40mm Bofors guns, some Mk 37 gun directors, and even a big gun director with a Mk 13 radar, suitable for battleships. Sadly, unlike the E-6 set, no postwar weapons are included. (DRW)
GOOD. 2 kits, allowing early and late type construction. AA guns are excellent, but hulls has a couple of sink holes, and no portholes. Radar is good, masts are too thick. Decals provided for IJN ships used in demobilisation and repatriation, also for other escorts of Skywave sets, and Gato class subs and various aircraft. (GH)
See Type 42/2.
Editor's Notes: Kit SW-350 is the original kit with two ships in the box. A variant of this kit with extra parts for post-war variants has been issued as Callaghan (kit W-1), which has been reviewed.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Kirov.
Includes 2x Gato sub, full hull or waterline, 2x Japanese sub chaser waterline, 2x B24
GOOD. Includes two Gato/Balao class subs, two Japanese No. 13 class subchasers and two B-24 bombers. Originally sold by Green Max in Japan, the set has most recently been marketed by Tamiya (kit 903).
I built the Skywave/Pit-Road release back in the early 1980s, and at the time they were very welcome as there were so few American subjects or smaller vessels available in 1/700 scale. The Gato/Balao submarines can be built either waterline or full hull. Outline and scale are accurate, and details are typical early Skywave/Pit-Road-abundant and effective, although slightly heavy in places. Numerous alternate deck weapons are provided, which come in useful as US WWII fleet boats varied widely in fit. The only downers are the molded rails on the hull and awful representations of doors on the conning tower (all easily removed).
The No.13 class subchasers are also quite good. These are traditional waterline, accurately capturing the graceful clipper bows of the originals. Surface details and depth charges on these are delicately rendered, but the somewhat heavy mast, davits, and gun platforms seem to overwhelm the less than 3 inch long hulls. Simple wire and sheet plastic replacements improve these areas a lot, and the addition of photoetch depth charge racks and railing will make the tiny models stand out.
Rounding out the set are a pair of excellent B-24 bombers, complete with separate tail assemblies, landing gear, and propellers. Decals are provided for all the models including alternate markings and US and IJN flags.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Editor's Notes: This kit was originally issued around 1980. The mold has been sold to Tamiya. (kit 903)
EXCELLENT. This is a very nice representation of a WW2 Gearing class DD. The hull is a little bit fat looking. It's about 3 scale feet too short, and one scale foot too wide. It looks kind of flat too, but I haven't measured those dimensions. The detail level is very nice. Fit is also excellent, so the kit goes together quite easily. Mine came with the more recent E-9 parts sprue, which includes a much improved set of 5-inch/L38 mk 32 mounts. If you thought the 5"ers in the E-6 set were good, these are better.
The kit represents the Gearing in 1945, after her anti-aircraft refit. With a spare set of Skywave torpedoes, it would be simple to retrofit the kit into the Gearing as built.
Unlike the Fletcher, it does not include parts for postwar variants. It can be used to make a late World War II Gearing, (with or without the anti-kamikaze AA upgrade) but not much beyond that. Maybe SkyWave will release further upgrades in the future.
One warning though: the hull on mine came with some nasty sink marks. (DRW)
Editor's Note: We're guessing that Skywave's Sumner-class is a close relative. For comparison, check out the Albatross Gearing class. (1/700)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
Editor's Note: See Murasame Class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Hatsuharu Class.
Editor's Note: See Tachibana Class.
Editor's Note: See Haruna Class.
Editor's Note: Apparently, this kit includes decals for both Hyuga and Ise. (DRW)
Large aircraft-carrying submarines.
Large aircraft-carrying submarines.
Editor's Note: As she appeared in 1985. Apparently being released in both waterline and full hull versions. Probably to be release under the same arrangement with Trumpeter as their New Jersey.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Joe Poutre showed me his unassembled kit. This one's a real mixed bag. There are some things I really like. The level of detail above the waterline is really wonderful.
The problem is the lower hull. I like the way they've split the hull at the waterline. I also like the fact that they've molded the lower hull in red. The problem is the twin skegs, which are too thick and under detailed. Revell's 1/720 kit simply has a better hull.
Another problem is the forward deck. It's a separate piece, as it is on many Skywave ships. It doesn't look that great. Revell's single piece deck is easier to work with.
In the best of all possible worlds, I'd kitbash the Revell 1/720 hull and single piece deck with just about everything else from this Skywave kit. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. The kit assembles well, and the hull (which has you attach the bow and stern to the ends of the hull bulge piece) is beautifully engineered. The funnels can be difficult to attach and align, though. (JMP)
Editor's Note: DML reissue has full hull option. Mold has been sold to DML/Dragon. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
Editor's Note: See Izumo Class. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. Builds an accurate model right out of the box. Instructions mostly in Japanese, but there are enough in English, and there is an English painting and decal guide on the box, which is one of those annoying open-at-the-end one piece boxes. Includes decals for Kagero and 5 of her sisters. No flash, lots of detail. I added photo-etch, and even with my average skills it looks museum-worthy. (JP)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
See Kirov .
See Unryu Class.
POOR. As with all the 1/700 PitRoad/MP White Metal Aircraft Series, this kit is rather expensive for one plane (I paid $13.50). I'm not sure what type of metal the kit is made of (zinc?), but it appears to be highly malleable and has small pits throughout that indicate problems with the molding process. This plane is solid metal.
I had considerable trouble cutting the landing gear and fueling receptacle from the sprues without bending the parts. The landing gear fits poorly to the body, necessitating many alterations to enable the plane to sit horizontally.
Unfortunately there are no modern CFM56 turbofan engines or hose-reel wingtip pods with this kit, which many KC-135s now have installed.
This kit comes with two sheets of decals from the Skywave modern "West Wings" aircraft sets, which lack the large modern USAF low-visibility insignia. I had to scavenge mine from other model decal sheets. (cking)
Editor's Note: Time for a retraction! Since the founding of Rajen's List, we've denied that there was any such thing as the Skywave Kirov.
Apparently, a picture of a model of the Kirov appeared in the back of a Skywave catalog in 1990, as part of an article. The article was in Japanese, so many who do not speak the language assumed it was an upcoming kit. (I don't speak Japanese either, but someone who does tipped me off!) In reality, the model in the picture was a scratchbuilt model. Anyhow, this article started a rumor that Skywave was considering a kit, but it never materialized.
Now, (as of 2003) Skywave has finally decided to produce the kit, in conjunction with the Chinese manufacturer Trumpeter. I haven't seen an actual model yet, either in or out of the box. (DRW)
This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Kongo Class.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. This is the immediate ancestor of the KrivakI/II kit. As with SW-31, you get two ships in the kit, but with this kit alone, you can only make Krivak Is. By using the Skywave Equipment for Modern Ship (I) kit, I was able to make the second ship into a Krivak II.
I have to agree with Chris King's assessment overall. (see his review below) I was very satisfied with my results. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. As with most 1/700 Skywave/PitRoad plastic ship kits I am very
impressed with the attention to detail and value you get with this kit.
You get parts to build two of these missile frigates in either the
Krivak I or Krivak II version. There is also a sprue of "extras" that
include various NATO ship armaments and two ASW helicopters (minus the
rotors).
The decal sheet has numerous pennant numbers to choose from. The only thing that would really make this kit better would be the option to build a modern "Krivak III" version, which has a helipad and hangar installed. (cking)
See Sumner-class.
See Takao-class.
See Spruance-class.
See Cleveland.
See Asashio-class.
See Mutsuki-class.
EXCELLENT. Released in 1994, Skywave/Pit-Road's Minekaze ("Summit Wind") is typical of their better efforts with accurate outline and crisp, detailed moldings. At about the size of a ballpoint pen this model is pretty small, but there is still plenty going on. I especially liked the fine non-slip deck surfaces and the well detailed superstructure sides. Smaller parts such as the guns, torpedo tubes, anchors, searchlights, rangefinders, and boats are also very good. The ship's boats are particularly well represented with delicate thwarts, keels, and even scribed planking. Decals are unusually extensive for a ship model including multiple flotilla numbers and Minekaze class ship's names for the hull sides and stern as well as a selection of funnel bands and naval ensigns. Another plus is the inclusion of alternate funnel caps, weapons and other parts so you can accurately depict Minekaze as she appeared at different points in her career.
Good as this kit is, it isn't quite perfect. For example, Skywave/Pit-Road faithfully represented dozens of portholes all over the ship, but on the hull they are only faint depressions. These aren't too bad, but redefining over 100 of these little holes with my #77 drill bit was a rather tedious task! The bridge and deckhouses come suitably busy with delicate molded surface detail including portholes, ladders, and doors. Unfortunately these excellent details do not all match the photographs in my references. Still, the kit may well be accurate as Minekaze was repeatedly refitted over the course of her long career... so benefit of the doubt to Skywave/Pit-Road on this one! Finally, there is a small discrepancy in the large buttress for the aft gun mount, which is depicted as a symmetrical unit divided into two equal sections. This was correct for the similar Kamikaze and Mutsuki class destroyers, but the Minekazes had a slightly different asymmetrical arrangement. In any case, this is simple to fix.
These minor quibbles notwithstanding, this remains an excellent little kit. It also fills an important gap as the Minekazes were one of the few Imperial Japanese Navy destroyer classess of the Pacific War which were never represented in the old 1/700 Water Line Series.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
See Iowa Class. Portrays the ship as she appeared in 1987.
Editor's Note: From the information on the box, it looks like the kit includes a German S-100, an RN Vosper II MBT, and a USN Elco PT boat. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: See Kongo Class.
See Mutsuki Class.
See Iowa Class. Released by Skywave only within Japan. Outside Japan will be released by Trumpeter. The model depicts her after her 1983 rebuild. Waterline and full hull options.
POOR/FAIR.
This is an injection molded model in light gray, very slick plastic. The plastic used is very soft. The subject matter is that of one of the auxiliary units of the IJN that was converted from a tanker to a seaplane carrier. Later in the war it was apparently converted back again. The time frame of the model that you will attempt to build from this kit is somewhere in the mid 1930s.
Kit Parts: After spending quite a few frustrating hours with this kit I can say that it is without a doubt one of the worst kits from this company that I have ever come across. Let’s start with the outside of the box. The box art painting is quite good and seems to agree somewhat with the few photos of the ship I was able to find on line. The painting directions on the back of the box are just wrong, you are on you own. The box contents don’t agree with the box art or the photos that I found. Several superstructure parts are not in the kit contents. The add on decks for the seaplanes seem to have a configuration and structural makeup that is completely conjectural. The kit contents will leave you with a highly simplified superstructure that does not accurately reflect the actual ship.
Many of the parts came from mis-matched mold halves leaving the parts in question almost useless. This happened with the masts and crane parts as well as many other of the smaller parts. Lots of parts had hard to remove flash running along at least one of their edges. Fit ranged from poor to good with a lot of fiddling about to make it happen. Some of the problems stemmed from the directions (more on that below). Because the plastic was so soft some of the detail molded in was indistinct. The hull had wavy lines in that made it look like it needed to be ironed.
Directions: The directions are almost entirely in Japanese, which if I was able to read Japanese might have assisted me in some of the problems I encountered with the drawings. The blown up line drawings must be consulted with a large grain of salt. Go through every bit and verify with your photo references before bringing out a single drop of glue. The drawings indicate that there are alternative fits but they are at best confusing as to what goes where. For example, looking at the painting on the box top you will note a structure forward of the funnel for additional ship’s boats. No parts were included for that structure, no drawings were included either, but the additional ship’s boats and davits were included. The directions even have you affixing the additional davits to places where there are no boats or cradles for them.
I would not recommend this kit to anyone but an IJN fanatic with good access to reference material. You will be doing a fair amount of scratch building to make up for the kit’s deficiencies as well as fixing the molding problems.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
See Atlanta-class.
GOOD. Two kits of O-class DDs included. Japanese instructions on box, no instruction sheet. All O-class ships' history on box side, instructions for Onslow, plus camouflage pattern given. Masts and radars are poor, but hull and details good. Need to drill own portholes though. Decals for all O-class ships provided for. Nice kit. (GH)
Editor's Note: Mold has been sold to Tamiya.
2 models per kit.
EXCELLENT. Really nice. I built the DML re-issue, and it came out quite nicely. Comes with separate stern to make both the "long tail" and "short tail" versions of the Perry class. Since the Skywave original does not have the lower hull, my snide remarks about DML's bilge keels do not apply here. My only criticism is that the lattice masts only have lattice work on three sides. If I wanted to get REALLY picky, I could point out that two shorter towers that should be lattice work are implemented in solid plastic. In my opinion though, these problems are too small to worry about. Kit also includes a Pegasus-class PHM.
This kit comes with a single sprue from the Equipment for Modern Ship (III) set, which provides many of the weapons and radars for the kit. You will thus get many spare parts for your parts box.(DRW)
Batch II Arleigh Burke
Editor's Note: See Kirov.
Editor's Note: See Atlanta-class.
Editor's Note: See Atlanta-class.
Editor's Note: See Tachikaze-class.
GOOD. - This is a pre-Pitroad kit consisting of two identical sprues, each containing one George Washington class SSBN, one Russian TU-95 recon plane, one P2V Neptune recon plane, and two F4F Phantom fighters. Details on the sub (which consists of only four pieces) are made with raised lines. Like DML kits, there is one open missle hatch with a "half-missle" available to prop within it. The kit is presented as "waterline", although it actually sits high in the water at the half-way mark on the hull. There are no periscopes included. Hull numbers are included but no waterline marks. Decals are included to build the Neptune and Phantoms in either JMSDF or US versions. The TU-95 includes several different numbers, so you can display both at the same time. There are no display stands for the aircraft, but each has wheels included. The George Washington should be easily convertible into the USS Kameamea with Navy Seal storage bins for those of you into variety. (DH)
POOR. I have to disagree with Doug about this. The aircraft are fine, but I don't like the sub at all.
The first problem is that the hull is too short. The hull is about 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) long. In 1/700 scale, that works out to about 379 feet, whereas the real George Washington class were 398 feet. The kit includes no propeller, so the error on the hull is a little less than that, (the 398 foot figure includes the prop) but it is still too short.
I compared the hull shape to Jim Christley's drawing in Friedman's "US Submarines since 1945". The proportions are all wrong for for the George Washington, or any other US SSBN, for that matter. The section of the bow in front of the sail is too long. The plan is too pointy, and the profile is not pointy enough. The missile casing is too long, and wrongly shaped near the sail. The casing is a bit like that on the Renwal George Washington, in that it does not slope down correctly by the sail. The section aft of the missile casing is too short. I attempted to fix the proportions by cutting the hull into three sections, and gluing it to half a piece of 1/2" (13mm) polystyrene tube that I had heavily modified. There was a lot of putty involved.....
The sail is also a bit overscale. The extra width is especially noticeable, though it is too long as well. Curiously enough, it is almost the right length for a Benjamin Franklin class. The DML Benjamin Franklin kit's sail isn't long enough, so I swapped sails! The sail swap improved both models.
Since the box came with two subs, I decided to complete the second boat as an Ethan Allen class, for which the sail would be more accurate. Once again, I cut the hull into three sections, and glued them to another much-modified piece of tubular styrene. With much cutting and puttying, I've managed to make it match some of Christley's drawings pretty well. I also moved the top vertical fin to the bottom, and made a new, larger top fin from sheet styrene. I think it is pretty close now.
The horizontal control surfaces are oddly trapezoidal. I had to cut the planes into more appropriate shapes.
The kit dates back to about 1981, so there was little excuse for these sorts of errors. Adequate references were available even then. (DRW), review dated July 8, 2007. Updated March 1, 2008, updated again October 2010.
See Type 42/1.
GOOD. Very nice details all over. Only the lattice mast is not ideal in plastic. For some reason, alternative decks are provided for DD122, possibly a prototype of this class. DD123-133 form this class, and decals are provided for the ships, their helicopters and a P-3 Orion. (GH)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) I am favorably disposed towards this kit. It has the same hull as the Ticonderoga class, and the superstructure has the same nice beveled joints. It also includes numerous spare parts, including the missile launchers needed to make a Kidd class DDG. The only reason I didn't give it an "Excellent" rating is that the forward mast has the same problem as the Arii Spruance, that is the area between the diagonals and the the mast itself and the yardarm are filled in with a thin layer of plastic, sort of like thick flash. The decals are far superior to those on the competing Arii kit.
This kit comes with a single sprue from the Equipment for Modern Ship (III) set, which provides many of the weapons and radars for the kit. You will thus get many spare parts for your parts box. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. I would have given this kit an "excellent" rating had it not been for some rather serious problems with fit in the area of the helo hangar. Specifically, parts A50 and A51 do not fit nicely around part A29. On the plus side, the detail is really nice, and as far as I can tell, the kit is accurate. (DRW)
GOOD. especially for 1/700 (AP)
Editor's Notes: The mold for this kit was sold to DML/Dragon in the late 1990s. The E-8 parts set used for this kit apparently went with it, though as of 2005, the E-8 set is on SkyWave's web site.
This kit has been issued as:
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
We're guessing that Skywave's Gearing-class is a close relative. For comparison, check out the Albatross Sumner class. (1/700) (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
Early war version.
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
This is an all plastic kit that includes decals for flags and aircraft markings. All of the parts are cleanly molded with almost no flash at all. Surface detail is excellent and crisp. The hull is molded in two pieces and pierced for the torpedo batteries. It is extremely well done. The deck(s) are molded in three pieces and assembled in a way to avoid the exposure of any seams. Deck detail is also extremely well done. Masts are very finely molded as is the AA battery which contains great detail (all plastic guns of this type will be over scale but nonetheless, these are well executed). The ship's boats and aircraft are finely cast and well detailed. Main battery turrets are good but lack the side detail found on Japanese ships of this type. Gun barrels are molded with blast bags on. Crane and catapults are very well done for plastic and most modelers will consider them more than adequate, however PE details like this would make this model really pop out.
Directions are also well done. Box art also supplements the directions as a painting guide.
Quite simply, there is no comparison to this ship kit and the old Aoshima kit # 002 (however the new Aoshima kit #28506, is a different story as it is also extremely well done). Side by side the old Aoshima Takao and this Skywave kit don't even look like they are of the same ship!
(WJS), review dated 14 April 2008.
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
We're guessing that Skywave's late war Takao is a close relative.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Late war version.
Editor's Notes: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
We're guessing that Skywave's early war Takao is a close relative.
See Perry class.
EXCELLENT. Comes with two different sets of masts so it is possible to build both early (CG-47 to 48) or later (CG-49 to 51) ships. This kit comes with a single sprue from the Equipment for Modern Ship (III) set, which provides many of the weapons and radars for the kit. You will thus get many spare parts for your parts box. To build the later ships with VLS launchers, (CG-52 on) get the Bunker Hill variant of this kit, which has a separate sprue with the VLS launchers. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
The mold for this kit has been sold to DML/Dragon.
Editor's Note: Issued around 2004. Presumably, this is a variant of their Bismarck kit.(DRW)
EXCELLENT. This kit comes with parts to make any Type 42/1 or 42/2, but it has decals and instructions only for Type 42/1. Decals & most parts for Argentine version included.
This kit comes with a single sprue from the Equipment for Modern Ship (IV) set, which provides many of the weapons and radars for the kit. You will thus get many spare parts for your parts box.
The mold for this kit has been sold to DML/Dragon. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. It's actually the same kit as the Type 42/1, but with different instructions and decals. The kit with parts & markings for entire Type 42/2 class. Some later copies have some sink-holes. On such finely detailed parts, sinkholes are a major problem to fill and sand.
This kit comes with a single sprue from the Equipment for Modern Ship (IV) set, which provides many of the weapons and radars for the kit. You will thus get many spare parts for your parts box.
The mold for this kit has been sold to DML/Dragon. (DRW)
This kit comes with a single sprue from the Equipment for Modern Ship (IV) set, which provides many of the weapons and radars for the kit. You will thus get many spare parts for your parts box.
The mold for this kit has been sold to DML/Dragon. (DRW)
GOOD. Also applies for Adm. Zhakarov kit. No mods needed. 1993(?); No of parts: two trees, one with kit-specific parts, one common tree with weapons, sensors, and ship fittings; 1 aircraft (Ka-27 Helix) included.
Detail: good - Appearance: accurate. With the cluttered look of a Russian warship. Typical Skywave quality. Part A3, the forward bridge needs careful dry fitting. Be sure to attach parts A38 and A39 to the port and starboard weather deck aft before fitting the helo deck (part A46), which pretty much blocks the area over. The decals allow 8 different ships of the class to be built, but the ones for the helicopter are too large for the scale. I used a pin vise to make a small indentation for the radar post (part 47) in the forward radar platform (Part A8). This made the assembly much sturdier, and allowed me to glue on the two antenna much more easily. I recommend Concord's Slava, Udaloy, and Sovremennyy, by Steve Zaloga as the best single-source reference. Lots of photos. Be sure to check the photos of the ship you intend to model carefully, since the paint scheme on the masts varies between units of the class. Also, many units of the class did not carry the Cross Sword radars until long after they entered service, so early photos will show them with just an empty circular platform (parts A28 and A29) over the bridge and aft deckhouse. All units in service now have been fitted with the full radar suite. (LLB)
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
See Ticonderoga-class. Parts are identical to the those of the Ticonderoga kit. (Orange 39) It comes with slightly different instructions, and decals for the Vincennes (CG-49), Valley Forge (CG-50) and Thomas S. Gates. (CG-51) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Scramble! set.
GOOD. As with all the 1/700 PitRoad/MP White Metal Aircraft Series, this kit is rather expensive for one plane (I paid $16.00 for this one). The plane is solid metal, and has nice detailing down to the jet engine exhaust ports.
There are only five parts to this kit, if I remember correctly. It was very quick to assemble, although the lower wings do not mate evenly with the fuselage. I used superglue to assemble the model, and so far it has held together well.
Unfortunately this kit does not come with any decals. The instruction sheet only has a picture of the prototype, which was painted white with wide, bright blue bands on the wings and tail. The actual military version is a medium to light gray color. (cking)
Editor's Note:Apparently, same as Arleigh Burke.
See Iowa Class. Portays the ship as she appeared in 1987.
Editor's Note: Presumably, this kit has been issued as:
See Type 42/3.
Editor's Note: See Murasame Class.
Editor's Notes: Released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
See Yamagumo-class.
See Minekaze-class.
See Kagero-class.
GOOD. A bargain from Skywave. You get two ships in this box. The kit includes guns to make either the 5x5" gun version or the 2x15cm + 3x5", but the breakwaters look beter for the 2x15cm version. It's probably most correct for Z-25 or Z-38. Anyhow, the kit is a little under-detailed, (no portholes)and the midships deckhouse has some overhangs that shouldn't be there, (can be cut off) but nothing too intolerable. Kit dates back to about 1979. (DRW)
POOR: The kit bears a passing resemblence to the Kriegsmarine Type 36A (Mob) that it is supposed to represent, but is replete with errors and lack of detail.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Steel Navy/Rhino Models
Dave Runkle, proprietor
7317 Walnut Road
Fair Oaks, CA 95628 USA
Phone: 916-863-6026
Email: rhino7@attbi.com
Editor's Note: First completed dreadnought
EXCELLENT. This kit is excellent! It is based entirely on AOTS: The Battleship Dreadnought by John Roberts and is as accurate as the book. The kit depicts Dreadnought in 1906.
Casting is of very high quality, crisp and well-detailed. A PE fret is also supplied, which includes railings, ladders, stairs, the compass platform, and other details.
The kit is very complete, except for torpedo net shelving and simulated torpedo nets - stowed or deployed. Booms will need to be fashioned from the supplied brass rod, of which there are various diameters for masts, spars, etc.
The instructions are quite basic. They include a parts list, a photocopy of the PE fret, diagrams of overall assembly and one on bridge assembly, and photocopies of plans, drawings and photographs of the vessel. There are no written instructions on assembly. However, that should pose no problem for the intermediate to advanced ship modeller. If help is required, AOTS: Dreadnought is the best reference.
No colour scheme is provided for painting the model, so the modeller will need to turn to other sources of information such as SMML, Steel Navy, etc.
Overall, this is a great kit of an important vessel - definitely one for any dreadnought aficionado collection. (MJD)
A major (some would say THE major) Japanese manufacturer of injection-molded polystyrene kits. (DRW)
The newer Tamiya kits are in my opinion the best WL kits of all. (GH)
For the most part, these were the best of the 1/700 scale waterline ships that the Japanese companies put out in the early-late seventies. Their destroyers were not the best of their line, but their carriers and capital ships were excellent with just a few warnings. Tamiya seems a mite careless in their depictions of the ships at specific times in their careers. You also need to check which configuration you want on some. In their light cruisers, there is even more variation, as three or four ships might be depicted at periods ranging from 1918-1945 (in the light cruisers, at least). Basically, these are good kits that look like their subject matter and go together easily. Masts are the most delicate and in-scale when compared to everyone else's efforts in the scale, A.A. gun barrels are well represented (barring the few clunkers), bridges, deck details, directors, and all the other fiddly-bits scale out well. The pedantic and coordinated may want to add the detail sets to replace radars and add rails. Replacement of the yards and upper masts is another simple upgrade. However, on the whole, these are the best starting points you will find in 1/700 scale kits from one of the large commercial companies. (MS)
Check out their web page.
CURRENT MOLDS
OLD MOLDS (no longer available)
| Agano | Akatsuki | Ayanami | Fubuki | Harusame |
| Hatsuyuki | Hibiki | I-58 & I-16 | Junyo | Kiso |
| Kuma | Kumano | Mogami | Musashi | Shiratsuyu |
| Shikinami | Shimakaze | Shinano | Suzuya | Taiho |
| Tama | Yahagi | Yamato | Yubari |
Old Mold
Old Mold
FAIR. Lack of detail on deck etc. Fit is early war. AA guns inaccurate. No retooling here yet. (GH)
Old Mold
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Mold purchased from Skywave. See Skywave's Bogue kit. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Presumably, a close relative of the Fletcher kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Same standard of molding as Hornet, but masts not as good. Series number of kit indicates older version. Only twelve late-war aircraft included, but AA armament doesn't match: 5 quad 1.1, 7 twin 40mm, 39 20mm. Need research to correct possible errors here. (GH)
OK/FAIR. Somebody's gotta say it.. This kit has become kind of notorious for being expensive and huge and yet lacking so much detail. Yes, it's very impressive, and the fit isn't as bad as some reviews would have you believe; mine assembled with little fuss. But for such a high price, and for such an immense kit, this model should have included at least a semblance of a hangar deck and at least a few aircraft of all types carried. If you get this kit and want to make it look really good, be ready to invest plenty of money in sheet plastic and accessory kits, and devote plenty of time. (JMP)
UPDATE. I wholeheartedly agree with Jodie Peeler's review. Essentially correct in shape and dimension, the kit is big and expensive and lacking detail. It's a nice model out of the box but it begs for detail. It also had some design features that are not so builder-friendly.
The features the builder may have trouble with include aligning the three-piece flight deck so that the seams are smooth. The large hull is molded with a separate bow. Getting the seam smooth requires some putty work and sanding. The lack of a hangar deck is a real shame but can be scratch built. The molded on flight deck netting looks bad but can be replaced using the Gold Medal Models (GMM) photoetched brass detail set.
Before detailing your kit, keep in mind that Enterprise has been in service since the early 1960s and as such her appearance has changed during her service life. The kit shows the ship without her "beehive" radar as she appeared during the eight years between the 1979-1982 refit and her 1990-1993 refit. Fortunately for the builder, Bert Kinsey's "The USS Enterprise in Detail and Scale" ISBN 1-888974-23-0 is a great color photo reference of the ship during this eight-year period. I have annotated where in Bert Kinsey's excellent book the builder can refer to a photograph of the detail in question on board the actual ship.
The ship appears slightly different in detail today than it did before the 1990-1993 refit. Anyone wanting to build the ship as she appears at this writing (October 2001 taking part in air attacks on targets in Afghanistan) should check out the ship's official website for detail changes and the addition of radars to her island superstructure at http://www.navy.mil/homepages/cvn65/.
Here are kit inaccuracies the builder may want to correct:
The kit only has a smattering of aircraft. To get most of the aircraft from the entire carrier air wing the builder will have to purchase additional aircraft sets also made by Tamiya. F/A-18 Hornets are available in these sets. Note that F/A-18 equipped squadrons were NOT assigned to Enterprise until after her 1990-1993 refit but Hornets did serve aboard Enterprise during carrier qualifications before 1990. A C-2 Greyhound can be made by modifying one of the E-2C Hawkeyes. Just flatten the nose, omit the radome, and remove the dihedral from the horizontal stabilizer making it flat. KA-6D tankers can be made from the kit's A-6 Intruders and are normally painted light grey and white for easy identification.
For builders depicting Enterprise's air wing after the 1990-1993 refit, replace the A-7 Corsairs with F/A-18 Hornets, replace SH-3H Sea Kings with six scratch built or kit-bashed SH-60F anti-submarine warfare helicopters and two HH-60H search and rescue helicopters. Replace any KA-6D tankers with KS-3 Viking tankers. The A-6 Intruder is currently retired from Enterprise's air wing being replaced by F/A-18 Hornets so builders should omit A-6s for Enterprise as she appears during operations against targets in Afghanistan. However, EA-6B Prowlers remain.
GMM makes some nice, thin decal sets for the air wing for East Coast (tail code AJ) or West Coast basings of Enterprise. The West Coast set for CVW-11, tail code letters NH, are correct for Enterprise as depicted by the kit including all deployments from 1982 until 1990. The E2-C Hawkeye "Screwtops" decals are NOT correct for CVW-11.
Yes, it is a lot of work but the kit begs for it. So get busy. (SCL)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Not quite as detailed as Skywave's Fletcher, but not bad at all. It is only correct for the early "round bridge" Fletchers. The 5 inch guns don't look that good. Skywave's E-6 parts pack provides a better set. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Old Mold
GOOD. Same as the Skywave/Pit-Road Gato & IJN Subchaser No.13 set (kit W-18). Interestingly, Tamiya also makes a No.13 class subchaser of their own tooling which they include with their Japanese Auxiliaries (kit 519). An entirely new effort, that subchaser is noticably different than the older Skywave/Pit-Road version found in this set.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
EXCELLENT. Even masts are acceptable, as are light AA. Very good deck and superstructure detail. Fit is 1939, with Atlantic bow. Even 20mm are included. (GH)
GOOD. Same comments as for the Scharnhorst.
Old Mold
FAIR. As Shiratuyu but late war fit with one less main turret and increased AA. A little flash on small parts. (GH)
Old Mold
FAIR. As Shikinami, but late war. One less main turret, more AA guns, but still 13 mm guns in two positions. Radar and light AA and new mast are good. (GH)
Old Mold
FAIR. Comments as for Shikinami, although not of that class. (GH)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. One of their finest. (MS)
EXCELLENT. This kit was originally released by Tamiya circa 1978. To this day, it remains one of the most prolific and widely available kit of Hood in existence. It is certainly a favourite among model builders. This article covers my personal assessment of this kit.
Kit Background: First issued in the late 1970s, this remains one of the better 1/700 scale injection molded plastic ship kits made by Tamiya or any other manufacturer. It is a sufficiently accurate representation of Hood in her final May 1941 (Bismarck pursuit) configuration. Due to Hood's large size (860 feet long), the model...although 1/700 scale, builds into a decent-sized display (@ 15" long). If you ask me, that is the perfect size for a waterline display!
Moulding & Detail: The kit is nicely done overall: Most mouldings are very crisp with an almost total absence of flash, sink holes and/or ejector marks. The kit assembles fairly easily with a minimum amount of filling, reshaping and sanding. In short, a modeler with little to no experience can build an acceptable representation of Hood straight from the box.
Hull: Correct in overall shape, taper and shear. It could be more detailed however: It lacks armour belt detailing and some portholes/scuttles. Italeri moulded the armor onto the sides of its 1/720 Hood, so why Tamiya chose not to pursue this same feature is beyond me. Luckily, this is easily remedied using plastic strip stock, a pin vise and a set of plans. The black plastic base plate does not mate to the hull well. This can be remedied by widening the circular slots on the underside of the hull. This will allow the pieces to join together easily. The base plate does not stay flush with the hull all the way around. Fortunately, this is remedied by using putty or plastic strips.
Deck: Most of the hatches and ventilators are laid out roughly in the proper positions. Unfortunately, there are a a few that are oriented the wrong way, or are not in precise positions. Many items are bit basic in shape or otherwise slightly out of scale. It is impossible to fix this problem without either rescribing or totally replacing all planked deck areas. I for one can live with these minor imperfections because they actually make the model more visually interesting.
Guns:
Superstructure: The various decks are mostly accurate in general shape and layout. None are really an exact/precise match though. Again, the main issue is a lack of detail: on the real ship there were numerous portholes, windows, doors, hatches and thru-deck ladder ways, that simply are not on the Tamiya kit. These can be added using photoetch, strip stock, a pin vise and flat files though.
There are some notable errors:
Former 5.5" Batteries: The recessed "battery" areas ("enclosed fo'c'sle deck") along the hull's sides require heavy modifications to be accurate. Tamiya divided each recessed area into three small compartments. This was presumably done because of moulding limitations. On the real Hood, these were actually large open areas. Portholes, doors, hatches, beams, etc need to be added here. A planked wooden deck also needs to be added! Needless to say, this is major surgery.
Masts: Adequately moulded, but could have been a bit thinner. These are best replaced with brass rod stock and photoetch yardarms. The "starfish" platforms are also nicely done, but are still best replaced by ultra-detailed photo-etch starfish by WEM.
Other: Boats and radars are mostly accurate. The motor launches (motorboats) could be more detailed though (windows, etc). I cannot say the same about the high angle fire control directors though. Tamiya shaped these essentially like "square boxes on thin sticks." The actual high angel fire control directors were not square but more angular. I suppose this can be fixed using a combination of files and sanding sticks. Gun shields and barriers are quite well done...fairly thin considering the limitations facing injection moulded kits.
Summary: Very beautiful kit, but could have been more detailed...especially when compared to the Italeri kit. Fortunately, most problems can be fixed with some extra work. I highly recommend buying it. In its latest iteration, it comes with an "E" class destroyer (the same class that escorted it most of the way to its encounter with Bismarck).
(FWA), review dated 1 April 2006. You can read the original version of this review on the HMS Hood website, with pictures and additional references, by clicking here. Review reused by permission of the author.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following kits:
EXCELLENT. Words fail to describe the quality of the moldings. Extremely fine detail, even masts are well done. Light AA shields molded in, barrels to be added with wire provided. Kit purports to represent ship at time of Doolittle's raid, (16 B-25 Mitchells provided, but no other aircraft) but I am unsure of this - there are 20mm guns in the kit. Perhaps the kit represents the ship when she was sunk at Santa Cruz? (GH)
EXCELLENT. The best of the lot. (MS)
Old Mold
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least variants of it, has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. Isuzu as AA cruiser. Moldings are excellent except for masts. However, kit differs markedly from the inaccurate Fujimi kit and is of higher quality: 8 torpedo tubes rather than 4 in Fujimi kit, main AA guns are better, the No.2 turret further forward than in the Fujimi kit, rear deck different shape to Fujimi kit, funnels different shape to Fujimi kit, bridge is of a different shape and radar on rear mast is at a different position to Fujimi kit, light AA guns differ and are in different positions to Fujimi kit, single 25mm AA provided, but without instructions where to put them! I recommend this instead of the Fujimi kit. (GH)
New Mold
Old Mold
EXCELLENT. Junyo ("Peregrine Falcon") is easily the best Japanese aircraft carrier of the original Water Line Series of the 1970s. The kit is well molded with no flash and excellent parts fit throughout, and the outline of the ship is dead accurate according to my references. Junyo comes with the familiar set of early war aircraft (5 Zekes, 4 Vals, 4 Kates, and 3 Judys), a red plastic base plate and metal weights for the hull. It resembles other Water Line Series carriers in parts breakdown with the hull and flight deck molded as single pieces. Unfortunately it also has the typical gallery support posts inaccurately depicted as solid wedges molded on the hull sides. Still, they are made finely enough that actually look ok as they are if you opt not to correct them. Also, as with Tamiya's Taiho kit, the gun galleries are separate parts from the hull, making thinning the gallery shields and replacing those supports a much simpler task if you choose to take it on. A feature of the kit I especially like is the inclusion of a partial two-level hangar deck aft, so if you show the elevator lowered you can see some of the interior through the well. I built mine with a few Nakajima B5N "Kate" torpedo bombers spotted there, and it is very cool to be able to look down the lift shaft and see airplanes in the hangar deck. Small parts such as 130mm and 25mm AA mounts, searchlights, boats, and radars are good. The latest releases of the kit include Leviathan upgrade parts, which are even better. Parts in this kit generally show an unusual attention to fundamental accuracy and fit which makes it a pleasure to build. Good as these basics are, it is the extraordinarily fine surface detailing which makes this kit really stand out. The hull sides are festooned with sharply rendered portholes, porthole covers, ladders, vents, a deagaussing cable... even stowed paravanes and a small stern anchor. The island is similarly busy with scuttles, ladders, vents, well represented bridge windows and unusually in-scale bulwarks. Masts and radars, though limited by the injection molding process, are also unusually good. The flight deck has beautifully petite raised planking as well as a windbreak, crash barrier, and arrestor gear detail. Non slip surface texture is, for once, close to scale and the engraved disappearing searchlight position looks great. The only disappointment on the flight deck is the presence of the ubiquitous raised landing lines, and even these are discreet enough that they can look good with careful painting. Even though it has been over thirty years since it was first released, Tamiya's Junyo is still among the best injection molded aircraft carrier kits available in 1/700 scale.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Just got this one for xmas, thought I would give a quick rundown of the kit for everyone. I am not an expert by any means, so take my review with the proverbial grain of salt. The kit, in 1/700th scale, is your classic Japanese waterline kit, complete with the steel weight. It only has 17 or 18 parts, so it isn't that complex. Being that the Kursk was destroyed in an accident last year, and the Soviets being disinclined to release technical information, I cannot comment upon how accurate or inaccurate the kit is. I'm sure there are dimensional sources, but I don't have them (yet). Basic construction will go quickly, as there are so few parts.
The issue I see with the model will be the masts, of which there are 9 in all. The instructions mention that part A1 is the attack periscope, while part A2 is the patrol scope. Keep this in mind. All of the holes for the masts and scopes will have to be cut out of the top of the sail, this is tiny, delicate work, but not microneurology by any means. A steady hand, and a tad of patience will be needed. Being a waterline kit, no screw is depicted, and the bow planes are not kitted.
The decals provide markings for 3 boats: the Kursk, the Omsk, and the Tomsk. I don't know how many other Oscar 2's are out there, but that is what you get with the kit. In addition, you get the usual miscellaneous submarine-type markings (draft lines, rescue hatch lines, sail panels, etc.) All painting instructions are called out in Tamiya acrylic colors.
On the down side, and this is only **my** opinion, I was disappointed with the scribing all over the model. I think Tamiya tried to depict the anechoic tiles present on many modern submarines, and the hull of this model is extremely busy with tile lines. As these are all scribed lines, removing them would be a long, drawn out process.
All in all, for 12 bucks, it is a good kit. As the Dragon kit was not a waterline, I don't know if it is a fair comparison. An easy, fast project for a cold winter weekend, I do think it is worth while. (JimMc)
GOOD. Good overall, poor AA guns augmented by a newly tooled sprue with good parts. Extra AA guns compared to early-war fit. (GH)
FAIR. Excellent hull, but masts overly thick as are various other pipes. A few sink holes, easy to fix. This kit is not retooled, but is an early fit cruiser, so no AA guns of note. A wooden base is provided. (GH)
New Mold
Old Mold
FAIR. Good overall details, reasonable AA guns but overdone raised lines on deck (common problem). Early war fit. The kit doesn't seem to have newly tooled parts in it, but the standard of quality is okay. (GH)
Old Mold
GOOD. Well molded and detailed kit, good guns all round, including single light AA. Masts should be redone though. No weight in this kit. Late war DD. (GH)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit represents the Mikuma in her final configuration as a light cruiser. She was converted to heavy cruiser standards beginning in 1939. Tamiya makes another kit of the class as Mogami in the all gun heavy cruiser fit as kit #78023 and after her conversion to an aircraft cruiser in kit #78021.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit. Most parts are provided in medium gray plastic. The lower hull and waterline plate are provided in red plastic. Parts for the base are cast in black plastic. A small sheet of stainless steel photo etch is provided for the aircraft crane, platform supports and parts of the catapults. Poly caps for the turrets, decals for aircraft, nameplates for the base and anchor chain are also provided.
All parts are clean and crisply molded with excellent surface detail. Tamiya in the past has always been noted as a producer of top notch kits and continues that reputation with this kit. I won’t bore you with a drooling description of the quality of the parts, just understand that they are first rate, state of the art toolings. The well detailed hull is split into three parts, the upper hull in two vertical pieces and the lower a one piece casting. I only build waterline so this is great. Interior bracing is similar to that found in Aoshima, Fujimi and Hasegawa 1/350 kits of large vessels. However, Tamiya uses seven transverse bulkheads that both glue in and utilize anchoring screws (which are provided in the kit along with a screw driver). The deck is divided into three pieces at the point of differing deck materials, to make painting easier. Fixing the deck also uses a combination of glue and metal screws. This will make for a hull sturdy enough to beat a burglar over the head with. Weapons sets and equipment are all superbly done, enough already, just go buy it.
Just as with the kits from the other Japanese manufacturers you can go crazy and buy a bunch of super detailing kits for this model but I believe that most modelers will be more than happy with the supplied parts and may be a set of photo etch railings.
Directions: multi-page, black and white printed booklet with text in Japanese, English, German and French. Illustrations are clear, blown up line drawings that are unambiguous and easy to follow. Paints are called out in Tamiya colors and instructions are supplemented with a double sided, poster sized color print on slick paper of a full hull view on one side and a waterline view on the other.
Packaging: large, colorful tightly packed box. All parts are bagged in plastic. Two cardboard separaters are used to keep them from moving around. Box top art is attractive and includes a topside copy of a painting of the ship and box side photos of the completed model and additional artistic renderings of the ship.
Once again this manufacturer has produced a first rate kit. I recommend it strongly to anyone who wants a Japanese cruiser from the era.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1938.
GOOD. (based on in-box review) Enclosed bridge. (AP)
UPDATE: This kit is a great kit which begs for detail. The vertical surfaces are sadly lacking the features of the actual ship. Using a mix of brass details from Gold Medal Models (rails, vertical surface details) and Tom's Model Works (radars, crane and catapults) really helps. But for portholes, electrical boxes, etc., scratch building is necessary.
I first painted mine in the dramatic Measure (Ms) 32b as she appeared during her Atlantic trials but found that the black camouflaged areas swallowed all the details I labored so long to include. I then repainted the entire ship in its late war, anti-Kamikaze Ms 22 (grey-over-navy blue). Ms 22 was "Navy Blue 5-N FS 35044" painted on the hull to a line parallel to the waterline running through the deepest part of the main deck. Testors Model Master "Insignia Blue FS 35044" is a dead match though looks a little dark at this scale. Then "Ocean Grey 5-O FS 35164" painted on all vertical surfaces from this point up. Testors Model Master "Intermediate Blue FS 35164" is another dead match. The metal decks should be painted "Deck Blue 20-B FS 35042". Testors Model Master "Flat Sea Blue FS 35042" perfectly matches the prototype.
Worth the money and the effort, with some brass detail sets and some scratchbuilt details and porthole drilling, this kit can be a masterpiece. (SCL)
See also Iowa-Class
Old Mold
New Mold
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship after her conversion to a heavy cruiser This kit, or relatives of it, has been released as:
Old Mold
New Mold
Machine gun/20mm AA molded into the decks supporting them. Replace these. (MS)
_Big_ model, lots of detail, some minor inaccuracies - get a good photo resource. The PE set from either Gold Medal or Flagship makes this a world-beater. (JP)
See also Iowa-Class
Editor's Note: Formerly a SkyWave mold. (DRW)
When building RN War Emergency Destroyers in 1/700, we have no other alternative injection moulded kit other than Tamiya "O" class destroyer. But sadly, this kit can't be highly recomended. This kit was initially released from "Greenmax" of Japan as one of "Sky Wave Series". Greenmax is originally manufacture of N-gauge model locomotive. When Greenmax abandoned selling ship kits, the tools are transferred to Pit-Road. But because of Japanese property tax system, Pit-Road was also forced to sell some of their tools to other manufactures. So now, Tamiya possesses the tools of "O" class. When transferred to Tamiya, the moulds were slightly re-tooled. The most distinctive modification is addition of four single 4" guns, though the shape is not accurate.
This kit contains 2 ships in 1 box. At a glance, kit seems to be very crisp moulded kit, but many errors incorporated. All of vertical surfaces of kit upperworks are tapered because of ejecting direction of the parts from tool. This is the nature of injection moulded kit, but this kit is too much heavy! The general arrangements on the deck are incorrect. Also the beam is too wide in bow section.
Basically the kit depicts the leader HMS Onslow. The fo'c'sle of Onslow is slightly longer than her sisters. And the aft deckhouse of her is larger than sisters. Though, even if building Onslow, I recommend scratch building most of upper works from plastic cards because of errors mentioned above.
I had built HMS Onslaught from the kit some years ago. First, I cut all of fittings from the kit deck except anchor chains of the bow and depth charges in the stern. Also I shortened the fo'c'sle end to match private ship. Next,I applied plastic card to inside of the bow, and shaped bow to get fine bow flare.
As upper structure, I used the kit upper bridge and funnel, but much modification required. Other upperworks are completely scratch building from the plastic cards. I think scratch building would be easier than correcting kit upperworks. Other small deck fittings (bollards, ready use lockers, ventilators etc.) are also scratch built. Search light and depth charge throwers are from Pit-Road fitting sets. Kit carley floats and boats are generally good. And now, we have many after market parts from WEM. (These parts were not available when I built my Onslaught.)
If you want to build all of O classes, please note that O classes are divided to two groups, the 4.7" gun ships (Onslow, Oribi, Onslaught and Offa) and the 4" HA gun ships (Opportune, Orwell, Obdurate and Obedient). The 4.7" gunships have single 4" HA in place of aft TT mountings like the kit.
The 4" HA gun ships have two set of TT mountings like pre-war destroyers. The 4" guns are covered with shield, except Y position. Also, the 4" gun groups were built with mine laying gear in their stern so that quickly converted to minelayers if required.
As reference, "ENSIGN 6" contains the general arrangement and sections of Oribi. Also onboard photographs of Onslow and Oribi included. This book is out of print and very hard to find, but very helpful when scratch buildingthe upperworks.
As after market parts, WEM offers "PE721", "PRO7033" (4.7" gun), "PRO7034" (4" HA gun without shield) and "PRO7042" (4" HA gun with shield). (MK)
OOB: Great model! Lots of detail, fit is good. Best LCACs yet, two each of loading and moving versions. Only "complaint" is that it is as-built, and several changes were made soon after commissioning. PitRoad makes a PE set to update and improve it even more. I plan to put mine next to a Revell Tarawa. (JP)
GOOD. Accurate model of the ship in her last few months (12/41). I'd call it excellent if it had some sort of railings, which are really missing in this scale.(AP)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. One of their finest. (MS)
EXCELLENT. Originally issued in 1977, the model depicts one of the PT-11 class aluminum torpedo boats that served with the Japanese Marine Self Defense Forces between 1975 and 1995. This big kit is an outstanding rendition of that somewhat obscure subject. Typical of Tamiya, parts are precisely designed and crisply molded. The kit is designed to be a runner and includes full motorization hardware (although recent reissues come without the motor). Happily, accuracy compromises for motorization are minimal, so it makes into a first rate static display model as well. Basic shapes look right, the complex hull with its lapped underwater chine being especially well captured. The spartan superstructure is convincingly portrayed with appropriate details including clear plastic windows, vents, separate rails, fire hose racks, firefighting fog applicators and other equipment. Though difficult to see once installed, there is even a complete bridge interior with a helm, seats, navigation/weapons panels and electronics boxes. Also notable is the exceptional exterior surface detail including hundreds of incredibly fine, in-scale rivets. The intricate-looking 40mm guns are simple to assemble and look great. The torpedo tubes look just right too, with the option to show them either with or without torpedoes. The numerous smaller fittings, provided as separate parts, give a sense of complexity to the relatively simple craft; these include separate anchors, hatches, bollards, cleats, fire plugs- and no less than 76 ammunition boxes! As with the superstructure, hull surface detailing is excellent. The hundreds of tiny, consistent rivets and subtle but sharp nonslip ridges on the main deck are very impressive indeed. A testament to the quality of the Tamiya moldings generally is that when I built the model using the Eduard photoetch upgrade set (No.53027) designed specifically for this kit, I ended up using relatively few of the parts- they just weren’t that much better than the original molded Tamiya parts! Another plus is the inclusion of 12 crew figures to man the bridge and open 40mm mounts. These are well sculpted in natural poses with lifejackets and helmets, and they add both life and scale to the finished model.
The kit does have a few weaknesses. One is the two-part main deck, divided to allow access to the model’s motorization equipment. This creates unsightly seams on either side of the superstructure which are hard to correct without damaging the delicate raised nonslip detail on the deck. Fortunately, they are mostly concealed behind the emergency life raft canisters and forward torpedo tubes. Another minor nitpick might be the railing, which is just a little thicker than I would have preferred- although it is still quite useable. My only real complaint about this kit was with the markings. Consisting of hull numbers, an instrument panel face and Japanese language markings for the life rings, they are sharp and well designed. Unfortunately, they are also practically useless! Provided in the form of a thick, glossy adhesive sticker rather than as traditional water slide decals, they would give an unacceptable toy-like look to this otherwise fine scale model. Painting them on instead was a pain... and needless! Why Tamiya chose to do this is baffling, especially since earlier issues of the kit had included these same markings as water slide decals. Let’s hope Tamiya will return to this more sensible approach in future releases.
Markings aside, this is an outstanding kit. At over 19 inches in length the completed model is impressive, and accurate outline, precise parts engineering and molding make it a trouble free build. Well rendered detail parts and unusually fine surface detailing make it even better. Even if you are not particularly interested in JMSDF subjects, this one is definitely worth a build.
(TR) Review dated February 2011.
Editor's Note: Announced 2007.
Machine gun/20mm AA molded into the decks supporting them. Replace these. (MS)
EXCELLENT. Pre-war configuration. Lots of detail, very accurate.
(JP) Review dated 28 May 1997
GOOD. As Matsu, but slightly modified with radar and one more AA gun. (GH)
GOOD. Like its sister Gneisenau, this is a beautiful kit, but also a heartbreaker. First the good stuff: Tamiya's Scharnhorst kit is very cleanly molded, well detailed with basic shapes of hull, superstructure, and weapons that are all absolutely dead-on accurate. Surface detailing is outstanding throughout, with delicate raised deck planking, sharp, in-scale portholes and a host of other details on virtually every surface which just leaves you smiling. Smaller parts are equally good, with weapons that are some of the best Kriegsmarine armament found in any injection molded kit in 1/700 scale. Aircraft and boats are both correctly shaped and convincingly detailed and the masts are, for once, accurate and close to scale appearance. In short, the kit is almost uniformly excellent.
So far so good. Then, for reasons best known to themselves, Tamiya decided to SPLIT the hull at the stern. That's right, the aft two inches of the hull are actually provided as a separate part to be attached to the main hull! What were they thinking? Aside from creating pointless seams along the hull sides aft, this design has the even worse effect of splitting that beautiful planked deck in a very visible place. Not only that, but they did it one better by splitting the planked decks at the bow as well! These seams can be fixed, of course, but I've never figured out how to completely hide those joins without damaging that lovely planking. And the frustrating thing is, these seams are needless! Tamiya's Scharnhorst/Gneisenau kits are in many respects among their finest, but these flubs considerably reduce their appeal.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
GOOD. Everything is ok, but one issue: the hull is shipped split in one quarter aft. It makes some difficulty in assembling.
(AS), Review dated 25 May 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
Old Mold
New Mold
Old Mold
FAIR. Lack of detail on parts. Late war, one less main turret for increased AA. I think light AA is not completely right, single 13mm are still present! (GH)
Old Mold
FAIR. Good hull and details. Masts are too thick. Instead of the usual metal weight, this kit's entire waterline bottom is metal, painted a brick red. Even light AA is acceptable. Depicts ship in mid war fit. (GH)
Old Mold
FAIR. Conversion of Yamato class to CV, so Yamato hull supplied with conversion part to fit carrier deck. This conversion deck needs cleaning up and filling of sink holes (maybe they contracted this job to Aoshima), but all other parts are well molded. Flight deck has raised painting detail though. A Leviathan set would do a lot for the fittings and light AA but is not necessary. 16 early war aircraft supplied. On her voyage the Shinano didn't carry any so that's no problem. The instructions say the Archerfish was sunk with all hands soon after sinking the Shinano and never knew of their achievement. I disagree, as there is a book out on the sinking of the carrier. (GH)
New mold (1999)
FAIR. Nice kit, including AA guns. Mast to replace. Mid war fit. (GH)
GOOD. As Zuikaku, but early war fit, 1941 to 1942. Early war aircraft and decals, including decals for flight deck. (GH)
Old Mold
OK. Clumsy look - this one needs retooling. Late war fit, with lots of (oversized) light AA. (GH)
New Mold
Old Mold
GOOD. One of Tamiya's older kits dating from the 1970s, Taiho ("Great Phoenix") is one of the better Japanese carrier kits of the original Water Line Series. I built one of the earlier issues (kit WLA050) which comes with the familiar set of early war aircraft (inappropriate for this late war vessel), metal weights for the hull and red plastic base plate. I think more recent issues may have the Leviathan upgade sprues as well. It resembles other Water Line Series carriers in parts breakdown with the hull and flight deck molded as single pieces. Unfortunately it also has the typical heavy raised outlines for the deck stripes, although Taiho's smooth armored deck makes these simple to remove. Engraved outlines of the elevators, arrestor gear and windbreaks on the flight deck are a bit heavy for my taste, but they are definitely acceptable. The island structure is convincing with good representatons of bridge windows. Gallery support posts are molded inaccurately as solid wedges on the hull sides, but the gun galleries themselves are separate parts from the hull, making thinning the gallery shields and replacing the supports much easier. The twelve 99mm twin AA mounts look good, but they aren't correct. The mounts aboard the Taiho were type A Gata Kai ("A Model Modification 1"), the same as those on the light cruiser Oyodo. For some reason Tamiya depiced these as closed turret-like gunhouses, but they should be of a different shape and open at the rear. On the plus side, the kit is well molded with no flash and excellent parts fit, and the outline is correct compared with the few photographs available. Smaller detail parts such as 25mm AA mounts, searchlights, boats, radars, masts, funnel supports and crane are distinctly better than average for WL Series kits. It even includes a single Nakajima B6N2 Tenzan ("Jill") torpedo bomber, so you can put at least one accurate aircraft on the deck without turning to aftermarket parts. The kit builds simply and quickly into a good representation of Japan's most advanced carrier right out of the box, or if you are more ambitious it could provide a soid basis for a more detailed build.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Old Mold
New Mold
Old Mold
New Mold
GOOD. Same comments as Prince of Wales. (AP?)
Old Mold
GOOD. Excellent kit, even light AA is acceptable. My kit came with a colour chart of all available waterline IJN ships, a nice touch. If desired, single light AA an be added and Leviathan sets used to improve fittings. (GH)
GOOD. Praise indeed, for apart from some sink marks on the main guns and some few portholes to be drilled, this is ready to be displayed - on a provided for wood display stand! AA guns very good indeed, and coamings are thin enough even for me. An excellent kit, newly retooled. Heh heh, the old one is completely gone! Mid-war fit with extra AA but A mounting still unreplaced by triple 25mm. (GH)
GOOD. Excellent representation of mid war destroyer, with 4 triple and one twin 25mm AA. Detail on deck basic, but nevertheless looks good. Masts are a little thick. Radar type 22 and 13 included. Lower hull looks accurate. NOTE: the instructions show pictures of Yukikaze, a sister ship, in late war mode with much more AA and cut down superstructure. They also show pictures of 4 cruisers in 1/400 scale, one Myoko class, one Takao class, and two Mogami class (before and after conversion to heavy cruiser). (The cruisers go for 500 Yen!). I have never seen these ships advertised ever. Perhaps for interior market only. (GH)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the Skywave Z-class. For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. 1944 fit, camouflaged. Excellent flight deck. Late war aircraft with decals supplied, and good light AA moldings used, similar in quality to Leviathan. I've started building the ship, and assembling the hull is tricky, since gaps appear when sponsons are fitted. Some putty needed. (GH)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. Based on in-box review. Two piece hulls for waterline/full hull display. Available with/without photoetch. Very crisp moldings. Haven't a good feel for the hull yet. Don't know if the others are different boxes, or really different kits. (AP)
GOOD. Reissue of the old 1960s Modelcraft model. Except for the decals, the kit is apparently identical to the Gorizia, but somewhat different from the other sister, Fiume, as Tauro'catalog lists the Zara/Gorizia kits at 239 parts each, Fiume at 251. Pola (227 parts) had a different superstructure but was otherwise similar. The most recent issues of these kits come with photoetch brass railings and waterslide decals.
The hull is in two parts split at the waterline with the underwater portion molded in dark red, similar to Nichimo's 1/200 scale ships. Fore and after main decks are molded as separate parts, with good detailing on both hull and decks. The after deck is especially nice with raised planking and numerous ventilators, bollards, skylights and other deck fittings, but the fit of the parts is not that great. I managed to destroy much of the detail on the deck while trying to integrate it with the hull aft. The hull had problems too, with a nasty twist that took a lot of adjustment to correct. I don't know if these problems were with the kit itself or just with my copy, but they were a pain! The rest of the assembly went easily. The kit is about comparable overall to the Heller 1/400 releases, perhaps a bit better. I especially liked the design of the multi-level forward superstructure, which replicates the structure's complexity and delicacy without being too complicated to put together. Open bridge windows and scuttles on the 'midships superstructure are a plus too. Doors on the superstructures are credibly represented with raised lines. Funnels, rangefinders, main turrets, and secondary gunhouses are accurately shaped, if a bit spare with detail. Main guns are just ok, as the main rifles taper too much (almost to points!) and the secondaries are simplified. Smaller parts are a mixed bag. The vents, boats, and masts are pretty good, but the aircraft, davits, paravanes, searchlights and smaller weapons are very basic.
On the plus side, Tauro's reissue includes excellent photoetch safety rails (by the Czech company Eduard) and a very nice set of ship-specific decals. The decal sheet includes the ship's name ZARA and a fasces symbol for the stern as well as the ship's motto Tenacemente ("Tenaciously") for the after turret sides. There are also markings for the aircraft wingtops. These additions improve the kit noticeably, but of course the best thing about Tauro's reissue is that it makes available again what had become a very rare kit.
(TR) Review dated 20 April 2007.
Check out their web page.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri America.
GOOD. (JMP)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Deutchland.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Nimitz.
Editor's Note: Reissue of DML Franklin vs. Sierra kit.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Forrestal.
Editor's Note: Fictional carrier from the ABC-TV series "Supercarrier". The kit itself appears to be a reissue of Italeri Nimitz kit, with a spurious pennant number (67).
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Graf Spee.
EXCELLENT. I honestly can not find any major flaws. If there is anything that could be corrected or should I say "improved" it would be the rudder and screws. Beyond that, I wish it was in a larger scale, 1/500, 1/600, or 1/350. The detail to the over all model is quite amazing. With PE this is quite the pleaser.
Special note about the gun mounts. They must have all received special attention because even the 4.1in AA, which is quite small in this scale, has amazing detail. The armored tower and stack must also be pointed out. Actually I could spend an entire page writing about this model. It was a little challenging because of the size of some of the parts and the very small details molded in, but the fit was very, very good.
The superstructure should be mentioned here also. In the class there were a total of three separate sections of the superstructure. The forward section with the armored tower, the middle with just the stack and the aft section with the catapult and aft fire control. Each of these are properly replicated in the kit. Totally awesome.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Kitty Hawk.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Kuznetsov.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Nimitz. Issued circa 1991.
Editor's Note: 2003 Re-issue of the old Hawk LST kit. Hull is said to be 6.5 inches long. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of DML Tarawa
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Nimitz
Editor's Note: Reissue of the DML 1/350 Ohio kit.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the DML Alfa vs. Ohio kit.
Editor's Note: Reissue of the DML Oscar vs. Trefalgar kit.
Editor's Note: 2003 Reissue of the old Hawk PT boat. Hull is said to be 5 inches long. Box art indicates PT-109, an Elco boat. (DRW)
GOOD. Do you remember Hawk model kits from the 1960s? Among their offerings were a number of small "box scale" nautical subjects including a U.S.N. destroyer, a Coast Guard cutter, an LST and a PT Boat. Not seen for over thirty years, these kits resurfaced in 2003 under the Testors label as the "EasyBuilder" series. They are inexpensive, simple kits which make ideal beginner models, building easily in just a few minutes.
Among these is the U.S. Navy PT Boat. Billed by Testors as 1/200 scale on the box and 1/160 scale on the instruction sheet, this 5 1/8 inch long model actually scales out to about 1/187 scale. Testors have made no alterations to the basic Hawk kit parts-in fact, the hull still has "Copyright Hawk 1967" engraved on the inside! The one addition with the new release is a nicely printed Microscale decal sheet with "PT109" in large shaded characters. Unfortunately these decals, while attractive, are not accurate for PT109. PT109 was painted haze gray before deployment to the Pacific, and in the Solomons PTs were repainted green with small unshaded white numbers. Oh, well.
The model parts come molded in a semi-opaque white plastic, an odd choice which makes painting necessary-come on, Testors, what would have been wrong with gray or green? The eighteen parts are crisply molded and generally accurate, though some flash, knockout pin marks, and sinkholes are evident. Also, the guns are a bit crude. Still, this little model is accurate in outline and surprisingly detailed with suitably busy surfaces showing raised deck planking, hatches, cleats, and other hardware; the life raft even has tiny oars in it. This is one of those kits which can be built into a pleasing replica in an afternoon or, with more work, into a superdetailed masterpiece. Though simplified, the basic shapes are there for a credible 80 foot Elco type World War Two PT boat.
I've seen the old Hawk model kits go for US $25-30 because of their collectible value, so it is great to see them re-released at something more like their original cost. The Hawk PT boat was a good kit in its day, and the Testors reissue is well worth the price. (TR)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Nimitz.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Saratoga.
Testors "Easy Builder" series
WPG / WAGC / WHEC 31
$4.00 (price on 11/5/2003)
FAIR. The 327 Foot Secretary class cutters were perhaps the longest serving ships of the US Coast Guard. They were built in the 1930's, with some serving well into the 1980's. The subject of this model, the USCGC Bibb, was launched in 1937 and was sunk as an artificial reef off of Florida in 1987.
This model was originally a Hawk issue, dating back to the mid 1960's. When Testors acquired Hawk molds in the early 1970's, this was reissued under the Hawk/Testors logo. While the box lists it as 1/600, the model measures exactly 6-1/2 inches, making it 1/603 scale. This small model is a perfect way to spend an evening. There are a total of 26 parts in all, including the full hull, deck, superstructure, masts, 5" 38 mount, 40mm AA guns, funnel halves, and various lifeboats and rafts. All are molded in an opaque white. The general armament configuration would place the era of the model between 1945 and 1965.
For a 35 year old mold, there is barely any flash. Only a tiny amount of flash around one liferaft and the 5"38, and that's it. There isn't a lot of detail in this model, the superstructure sides are completely smooth. The deck is smooth also, with no traces of deck lines or planking. This is good, because planking is easily overdone in this scale. Unfortunately the depth charges racks and what appear to be depth charge launchers are molded into the deck and are rather clumsy. Anchor chain is also molded into the deck. There's a rudder but no screws for the stern. I found the masts are delicate and mine broke right in the box. It would be better to replace them with Evergreen stock. And the radar unit is very thick and out of proportion for this scale.
The instructions are a single page exploded drawing, and the decals are very basic--Just a number "31" in white. The decals are made by Microscale. One good feature with a ship that served this long is you have a choice of paint schemes. The box art and decals suggest an overall gray, but in the 1950's the Coast Guard painted ships overall white, with buff masts. Then in the 1960's the red and blue stripes appeared. This model would look right at home in any scheme.
Despite its drawbacks, overall it is a nice, basic kit and hopefully will draw young modelers into ship building, which appears to be Testors' intent. (RD)
FAIR. 2003 re-issue of the old Hawk Destroyer kit. In some ways, this kit owes much to Revell's 1954 Fletcher kit. It is of the same ship, and it has many similar features.
Because of its age and low price, I'm willing to overlook this kits flaws. It can be a good introduction to ship modelling for a child. An adult modeller can either relive his youth, or have fun doing modifications. If you're looking for a serious 1/700 Fletcher, this isn't the kit for you, but if you're looking for some cheap fun, you could do worse. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Kuznetsov.
Editor's Note: Reissue of Italeri Nimitz.
Manufacturer of metal 1/600 ships. US Civil War unless otherwise noted. Small, meant for wargaming, all waterline. Useful in dioramas, can be detailed with parts they sell and scratchwork. Some models serve for entire class, like USS Passaic. (JP)
Their web page.
Detailed, but some inaccuracies, compared with photos. If you want to superdetail it for a diorama, go ahead - fix the guns, the deck fittings, and add boats, a deck gun or two, the awning, pole masts, and correct paint job. An afternoon project if you have a good photo or two. (JP)
4 per set
3 per set
Tom's Modelworks
P.O. Box 304
Santa Rosa CA. 95402
Their previous address was:
Tom's Modelworks
1050 Cranberry Dr.
Cupertino, CA 95014
Also manufacture photo-etch brass detail sets. Their web page.
They have reportedly purchased the rights to the kits and photo-etch of White Ensign Models.
POOR. (based on in-box review) Deck looked nice, but the hull was really bad. Much filing & sanding required, and the detail was not crisp. I didn't get a look at the white metal/PEB parts. This might have been an old/preproduction version, but I have no way of knowing. (DRW)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. Resin and photoetch brass in 1:350 scale, no decals. This kit represents the WWII Balao class submarines, of which 119 were built. The hull has a large pour plug that must be removed with files and sanding. The kit design is based on the museum ship USS Pampanito (in San Francisco), and thus represents the Government design, with portside anchor (vs. Electric Boat's starboard anchor) and multiple limber hole freeflood slots. In addition, Pampanito apparently at some point received an additional row of limber holes near the bow, with three vertical rows (most Gov't. design boats had two rows; Electric Boat designs had half moon limber holes). The kit is nicely cast in resin, with delicate details on deck. The fairwater is an accurate representation of a Balao class, complete with deck planking and bridge hatch molded in. The periscope shears are cast as a separate item. The control surfaces and guns are cast in resin, as are the propeller shafts. This makes these items very delicate to handle, and there is considerable casting flash to remove. The photoetch sheet includes deck railings, gun deck railings, bilge keels, propellers, radio, and radar antennas, deck cleats, TDC stand, and other features. A nice kit for the more experienced builder. (TD)
GOOD. A 1:350 scale kit in resin with photoetch brass. No decals.
The US Navy Guppy class of submarines were converted Fleet Submarines of the Balao and Tench classes. The Guppy program (Greater Underwater Propulsive Power) rebuilt the submarines with improved batteries, snorkels, and streamlined sails. These upgraded diesel-electric boats served alongside the growing nuclear submarine fleet into the 1970s.
The Tom's kit consists of a Balao hull (identical to his 1:350 Balao resin kit) and the choice of three Guppy sails- an Electric Boat "step sail" a Portsmouth "step" sail, and a high & quot;Atlantic" sail. The kit comes with photoetch and resin detail parts and a brass template to reshape the bow to the rounded off Guppy configuration. The hull has a resin pour plug along the keel that must be sanded away. The hull also retains the numerous Balao limber holes from the Balao kit (based on USS Pampanito). Guppys had either smaller numbers of modified shape freeflood limber holes or none at all (a perforated metal deck allowed air to escape). The modeler must address this with some reference materials and putty work. The three Guppy sails are well executed, and brass snorkel diffuser plates are provided. Unfortunately, the photoetch propellers are four bladed, and Guppy boats had 5 bladed propellers. Overall though, this is a very worthwhile kit and the only one of this important class of submarines in any scale at present. Very good.
(TD), review dated 16 November 2003.
December 1941 configuration.
OOP
OOP
Dec. 1941 configuration. Full hull and waterline versions.
GOOD/VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is no longer produced by Tom's Modelworks. I am not really sure where the tooling for this one went. It was offered two ways, full hull or waterline. My kit is a waterline model.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model which also includes copper chain for the anchors, white metal and photo etched detail parts. The resin parts, cast in several different colors, are for the most part well done with good surface detail. The hull on my model had lots of pinholes and flash around the waterline, deck detail was good and unmarred by flaws. The bottom of the hull did not have any over pour and was dead flat. The turrets while cleanly cast were devoid of any detail. Main battery guns were cast in pairs in the white metal. They were cleanly cast and straight but I would prefer after market turned brass or aluminum on a model of this size. I will probably look elsewhere for better secondary battery guns as well. There was some flash on both the small resin and metal parts that must be removed, tedious but not overly so. Some of the resin parts have some inconveniently located pour plugs that will require finesse to remove without damaging the parts. The included photo etch is very extensive and includes a full set of railings. When I bought it I thought it well worth the money and after some years of “ripening” in my closet with some others it still looks pretty good.
Directions:: multi page with drawings that are the most helpful with the use of the photo etch parts, not so helpful with getting the other parts assembled, aligned and in the right place.
Packaging: heavy cardboard box, small parts bagged, big parts bubble wrapped.
(WJS), review dated 19 March 2008.
Trumpeter is the main brand name for the Wasan Model Company. Earlier Trumpter kits (mostly of PLAN subject matter) were originally released under the AA Models label, but have since been rereleased as Trumpeter. (DH)
Check out their web page.
Editor's Notes: See Luda class. (1/350) This kit was referred to me as being the same as Trumpeter's Luda-class, below. This is odd, since the real DDG-168 is a new Luhai-class DDG. Zhengdefu seems to have made the same mistake. It's hard to tell what's really going on without looking in the boxes. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under South Dakota-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit of 358 pieces contains the parts necessary to differentiate it from the South Dakota kit including bridge superstructure and secondary battery. Oddly, this kit is in early war fit without the scads of 20 mm AAA found on the South Dakota kit. I would have thought given the history of the South Dakota that it would have been in the early war fit and Alabama the later kit.
Otherwise please see my review of Trumpeter #05760 regarding parts quality, directions and packaging. Except of course for the bit about the molded in 20 mm shields in the deck and the painting directions.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Note: See notes under South Dakota-class.
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (1/350) (DRW)
GOOD.
I purchased my Arizona from Free Time Hobbies at an advance and reduced price. The kit actually came direct to me in New Zealand from China. I believe the kit is quite expensive and in these tough times a lot of people are going to forgo purchasing. But for the American modeller whose into history this kit is well worth the extra pennies for his or her collection.
I for one, felt it was a good deal and when the package came, was very impressed (a) with the internal packaging (b) with the instructions and (c) not so with the box art. It's OK but being an Art Director from years ago in advertising I have dealt with some incredibly talented marine illustrators who would have done better on the box art.
I decided well in advance of getting the kit that I was going to build in waterline. This scale lends itself to a waterline diorama. In that it's big, crisp in the moulding and well detailed. I thought of building her moments before the Japanese attack. But decide on doing her in her heyday of the 1930's and at anchor. Years ago when in the UK I saw a lot of John Glossop's Royal Navy models in waterline dioramas and was suitably impressed. The average punter never sees a ship, (especially a naval ship) under the waterline. Usually because it's top secret for the life of the ship and also because nobody really knows. So there are always inaccuracy issues. Since then I have built many waterline models for clients who are totally satisfied with this style.
The kit is very easy to put together and while there is nominal photo etch. It really needs a PE manufacturer to step up to the plate. The boat cranes and aircraft crane really do need detailing as do the boats. At this scale they are larger enough to have railings etc. Also the companion ladders could do with some extra work.
As for accuracy? I'm not totally sure! I build a commercial kit for the enjoyment and to paint a picture of how she sat in the water or steamed through it at high speed at a given time. This is not a museum or builders model so accuracy for me is secondary. But the molding is crisp, clean and nicely finished. No flash like, days of old. Trumpeter if they continue on with the sort of kit will make a lot of modellers, very happy.
As to the instructions. Very easy to follow, all in English. But no rigging detail. I used "Battleship Arizona" An Illustrated History by Paul Stillwell as reference. The front cover painting gives reasonably good rigging detail.
I mounted the hull of a piece of sheet plastic and then screwed it to a base. The sea was created out of Polly Filler (a builders mix!) You have about 20 minutes to work the filler into how you want the scene. I also drill small 6 mm holes in the base so the Polly Filler has a key to grip. There is very little shrinkage with this stuff. When dry I paint with water based greens and blue and when that is dry touch up with some white wave breaks. Then top off with a high gloss to give wet look. Quite often I do a much more choppy sea with a bow wave etc. This time I wanted the ship to sit there. Looking like the fortress she was. Even if, a vulnerable fortress!
(GM), review dated 18 January, 2011
EXCELLENT.
A perennial favorite among modelers, the USS Arizona has until recently never been represented in a really first rate plastic model kit. There have been many attempts, the most successful of which was probably the 1957 Revell 1/426 Arizona. Trumpeter themselves had issued a 1/350 version of the ship in 2001 (under the Banner label), but it was something of a disappointment as it repeated many of the shortcomings of the old Revell kit. They took the opportunity for a do-over in 2010 with this bigger 1/200 scale effort, and this time they got it right!
This new version is, quite simply, the best USS Arizona plastic model kit yet produced. And this thing is BIG. It is hard not to express this in superlatives; at over three feet long it is certainly the biggest plastic Arizona around, and it is by far the most complex as well with its imposing parts count of over 1000 including 975 parts in gray, red, and clear styrene plastic, 12 turned aluminum main barrels, 54 photoetch brass parts, metal anchor chains and shafts, 2 decal sheets and even 64 soft plastic crew figures. It isn’t just impressive in size, though. Checking the parts and assemblies against 1/192 scale plans shows that it is very accurate in outline, with everything correctly sited and appropriately proportioned. Other evidence of the competent research on this model is that the purported December 1941 configuration is in fact correct; the empty 1.1 inch battery tubs, incomplete radar installation on the forward fighting top, Kingfisher seaplanes and other details are dead on for her appearance on the Day of Infamy. Even the painting reference sheet reflects the latest research. Although not without mistakes (like the labels "navy blue" and "white"), the color renderings accurately show the ship in overall 5-S Sea Blue with 5-L Light Gray fighting tops, unpainted teak decks and those controversial red turret roofs. Surface detailing is accurate and convincing as well, with a multitude of doors, portholes, fire hoses and other details in sharp relief and in-scale, precisely engraved deck planking. Smaller assemblies such as the secondary armament, catapults, and boats are excellent, with just the right balance of detail and ease of assembly. In fact, ease of assembly is one of the best aspects of this kit. Despite the size and detail of the project, Trumpeter’s designers kept assembly straightforward and logical, a great improvement over some of that company’s earlier efforts. They also made the most of modern slide mold technology and simplified many assemblies without loss of detail. The complex fighting tops, for example, are beautifully molded as single pieces with separate bottoms. This makes for very easy assembly with none of the seams on the multi-part assemblies found in most of the Arizona kits previously released. Good design with excellent parts fit generally make this kit come together easily and surprisingly quickly. There are also a number of extras which really make it shine, such as metal anchor chain, turned aluminum 14 inch rifles, and two separate photoetch brass detail sets. The brass included in the kit provides rails, cantilevered yardarms and other details so that you can achieve a finely detailed result out of the box without having to turn to aftermarket parts. If you want more, Trumpeter offers additional photoetch stairs, ladders, and turned brass 5 inch gun barrels separately in a reasonably priced upgrade set. Of course these (and their additional cost) could have been included with the kit, but I appreciate that Trumpeter was trying to offer modelers a more affordable basic option. As it is, the combined cost of the 1/200 scale kit plus the extra upgrade set is still substantially less than that of smaller 1/350 scale battleships (without upgrades) by the major Japanese manufacturers. Considering the excellent quality of the plastic, aluminum, and brass parts, this big kit is really an outstanding value.
Impressive as it is, Trumpeter’s new Arizona is not perfect. The most significant area of concern is the underwater hull. The two-piece hull is divided at the waterline like the old Nichimo 1/200 destroyers and subs, so if you opt for a waterline model there is no problem. However, a full hull display reveals compromises in the propulsion system apparently made to aid completion of the ship as an operating RC model: the rudder is incorrectly post mounted, the metal shafts provided are too thin, the shaft struts too thick, flared apratures where the shafts enter the hull inaccurate, and the propellers do not match reference photos. These discrepancies are not all that serious and can be addressed with ordinary modeling skills, but it is disappointing to see RC considerations compromising this otherwise first rate model kit. Another weakness is the lack of docking keels. Often overlooked, these four wide keels on the hull bottom helped distribute the ship’s immense weight when drydocked (you can see these keels on some of the pictures of the overturned USS Oklahoma after Pearl Harbor). Typically omitted on plastic kits, at least these are inconspicuous and most people will not notice their absence. Another issue on the hull is the hawsepipes, which require some trimming to properly fit the anchor stocks through them. Finally, the casemate interior gun deck is completely open, like some large dance floor; however, adding rudimentary bulkheads so you can’t see daylight through the gun openings is sufficient to address this.
Shortcomings notwithstanding, Trumpeter’s big Arizona is a magnificent effort, among the very best of their ship kits. With its impressive size, accuracy, and ease of assembly, this kit easily eclipses all previous plastic Arizona models. It is a great value for money as well, which is encouraging; if it sells well for them we may hope to see more high quality models like it in this imposing scale.
(TR) Review dated February 2011.
Editor's Note: Issued circa 2010.
Announced for 2003. Possibly the Banner kit.
Editor's Note: See notes under New Orleans Class.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
GOOD. This is the second of Pit-Road/Trumpeter's two USS Baltimore releases in 1/700 (PitRoad markets the kits in Japan, Trumpeter everywhere else). The 1st release depicted a 1943, as-launched version of Baltimore, wearing an overall Navy Blue Ms21 scheme. I choose this later war version because of the Ms3X/16d dazzle scheme, which I thought was more interesting.
Upon opening the box, you'll find seven sprues, along with a forward and aft upper hull and a forward and aft lower hulls (for the full hull version). There is also a waterline hull plate, for those wishing to build a waterline version. The main deck is also in two pieces, a long forward piece and a short aft piece. The reason for the two part hulls and decks is so Trumpeter could produce the different sterns found on the Baltimore class. Earlier versions of the class had twin cranes on the stern, while later versions had one crane and a slightly different shaped stern (You'll find the different stern on the PR/Trumpeter 1/700 model of Pittsburgh).
Generally, the parts are well molded and free of flash, but there are annoying sink marks and mold seams to be found, so some cleanup will be required. The fit of the parts, however, leave something to be desired, especially for a brand new model. I've had to use lots of putty on this model!
The turrets are especially problematic - to increase surface detail, Trumpeter molded them as multiple parts, meaning you have a basic turret with separate sides. This leaves a substantial gap on either side of the turret, which then has to be filled and sanded. As a result, you end up sanding off the additional detail on the turret roof that Trumpeter was attempting to add!
The instruction booklet - some eight pages - is well done and fairly straightforward, in my opinion. The only issue I have is that Trumpeter would have you add either the waterline plate or the lower hull in the last step, AFTER the rest of your model is assembled. Certainly, that is a recipe for disaster! A color profile is included, showing a plan and profile view of the ship for painting purposes.
Overall, the kit seems to be an improvement on the old Hi-Mold 1/700 resin Baltimore, that is now OOP (I believe). If you are into USN heavy cruisers and have a little patience and some basis modeling skills, you should be able to tackle this kit.
Note about Baltimore's camo: In 1944, Baltimore carried a Ms33/16d dazzle scheme, which consisted of light gray, ocean gray and navy blue. Some sources say she wore Ms32 colors, which would mean the darkest color should be black, not blue. However, photos on the Naval Historical Website which show Baltimore and Indianapolis moored near each other at the Mare Island Navy Yard seem to indicate Baltimore's darkest color is lighter than the darkest color in the Indianapolis, which was definitely painted in a Ms 32 pattern. That would mean Baltimore wore 5N Navy Blue, not Black, as her darkest color. Before I get down to painting, I'll check with a source at the archives and see if he knows of any definitive answer about her paint scheme.
(MJQ), review dated 17 August 2007
Editor's Note: See Baltimore Class.
Editor's Notes: Issued around 2005. The kit is said to have 281 parts. Given Trumpeter's joint venture with Skywave, it could be a re-issue of the Skywave Bismarck. Presumably, Trumpeter's Tirpitz is similar.(DRW)
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all plastic kit of 281 parts that includes a decal sheet of hull and deck markings (to skirt the anti swastika law in Germany the swastika deck markings are in multiple pieces). The decal sheet also includes part of the ship's bar shaped camouflage to make the modeler's painting easier ( a dubious proposition but a nice try anyway). The hull is split at the waterline and includes a name plate, base plate for waterline display and a cradle for full hull display. The worst aspect of this otherwise excellent kit is the fact that the deck is a three piece assembly which exposes two seams that will be really hard to disguise. All the parts are are extremely well detailed, cleanly cast and essentially flawless. Planking is finely engraved but there are no ends molded in like the Hood kit from Trumpeter. Masts are so finely cast and delicate that the modeler will be well advised to use them as templates for sturdier brass rod or tubing masts if he desires to rig the ship. Adding one of the brass detail sets on the market will make this kit truly outstanding.
Having built the old Aoshima kits of Bismarck and Tirpitz I can say that these kits (incl. Tirpitz by Trumpeter) are light years ahead in detail and fidelity to scale as well as crispness of the parts. I would highly recommend this kit to any modeler, newbie or old hand.
Directions:: excellent, well drawn, multipage exploded view drawings, however, there is no color plate to supplement the painting directions as found in more recent Trumpeter offerings, Mr. Color numbers called out.
Packaging: well decorated, sturdy, tightly packed box typical of new Trumpeter products, very secure.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
For comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. (based on in box review)
Note: I am unclear from the kit contents as to what differentiates this iteration of the kit from the earlier fit of the ship.
Kit Parts: this is an all plastic kit of 182 parts that includes a decal sheet of flags, hull and deck markings (including landing zones). There is no photo etch included. The hull is split at the waterline to accommodate the builder's choice of full hull or waterline. A base plate and a cradle have also been included for waterline or full hull display. The upper hull is extremely well detailed and cleanly cast. There were no sinkholes, miscast or malformed parts and no flash on the other kit parts. Surface detail on all parts is excellent. An improvement would be for PE to be provided for the radar and platforms as plastic is just too clunky for these fine parts. Adding a PE detail set to this kit would turn it into a little seen but outstanding model.
Directions:: excellent, well drawn, multipage exploded view drawings, with an included color plate for painting directions, Mr. Color numbers called out.
Packaging: well decorated, sturdy, tightly packed box typical of new Trumpeter products, very secure.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: Issued around 2005. This kit has apparently been issued as:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Jeremiah O'Brien
Editor's Note: This kit, or variants of it, has been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy-class.
Editor's Note: Presumably same as the 1/350 Burke-class kit
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/200) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/350) (DRW)
GOOD/EXCELLENT. Trumpeter has produced several different "flights" of these kits, depicting members of the class at different points (with changes to aircraft, weapons and sensor fit). The Essex-class kits feel a little more refined than the Hornet kit. As with the Hornet kit, you get a hangar deck and a separate lower hull, so no cutting is needed if you want to build a waterlined model. My only complaint is that no long-hull variant of the class has been produced by Trumpeter, but you can convert one if you're suitably insane (like me). (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
GOOD. The kit's hull shape is much boxier than it should be but it is a significant improvement over Trumpeter's badly shaped USS Hornet CV-8 kit's supertanker-like hull. Similarly, the Essex kit's flight deck planking and tie-down strip detail is beautifully rendered, a vast improvement over the older Hornet kit. While Trumpeter did include a hangar deck, the bulkhead roller doors are molded closed so the modeler will have to cut open some or all of them in order to view the hangar deck. Moreover, there is no elevator well detail, no hangar deck interior bulkhead detail or hangar deck overhead detail.
They all lack shields for the AA guns. These can be obtained as part of the many aftermarket PE sets readily available from manufacturers such as Gold Medal Models, Toms Modelworks, Eduard, etc. (SCL) Review dated 28 January 2008
Editor's Notes: New mold, circa 2005. Said to have 610 parts. This kit has apparently been issued as:
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1978. Same as Nimitz, below.
Editor's Note: Same as Nimitz, below.
Editor's Note: Presumably a variant of the 1/350 Burke-class kit
Editor's Note: See Essex-class.
Editor's Note: See Essex-class.
GOOD. Trumpeter's 1941 Gato represents the sub in its initial, as-launched configuration with the enclosed conning tower navigation bridge, light topside armament, and smaller number of drainage holes along the hull sides. Released back in 2006, the kit was a welcome successor to the 1950s Lindberg Gato and the 1971 Revell Gato class sub which had been the only mainstream options available in larger scales up to that time. Trumpeter's kit is superior to both of them in all respects. Plus, in 1/144 scale (26.5 inches) it is larger too, making for an impressive but still manageable display piece. The sub is on target dimensionally and scales out accurately with correct, crisply rendered detailing throughout. Assembly design is straightforward, and fit is good. The full hull is split conventionally along the keel, with the foredeck and aft upper casing as a separate piece. Surface detailing on the hull is sharp and credible, especially around the forward torpedo tubes and on the decks. The conning tower is accurate with open portholes forward and well executed internal bracing and deck surfaces. Smaller detail parts such as the hatches, cleats, roller chocks, searchlight, RDF mast, periscopes, and ship¿s bell are first rate. Oddly, Trumpeter also included a 21-part internal pressure hull including decks, bulkheads, and doors which, once sealed up and set in place, is completely invisible.
Although molding throughout the kit is fairly clean, there is the slight mold misalignment typical of Trumpeter ship kits which renders small parts such as stanchions, periscopes, and gun barrels out of round, and thick sprue attachment points further complicate clean up. Also, the inner conning tower sides have several visible ejector pin marks. Armament consists of a 3-inch/50 deck gun and a .50 cal. MG which, although acceptable, are not particularly detailed for this relatively large scale. The shapes of the bow/stern planes and rudder, though right in outline, are indifferent in hydrodynamic section with blunt trailing edges. The bow planes are designed to be workable, but the two hinge halves that mount each of them are so weak the planes are best fixed either up or down. If shown deployed, actuator arms must be added as they are not included in the kit. Decals include large white numbers '212' for the conning tower sides as well as national ensigns and jacks both straight and waving (with the correct 48 stars too, a detail not always seen in kits manufactured outside the U.S.!) However, the smaller hull numbers for the bows (shown on the box art) are absent, as are the small white draft numbers and 'GATO' lettering the sub carried on her stern when launched. These markings were all painted out once the war started, though, so these omissions aren't really much of a problem.
The best Gato available when first released, Trumpeter's sub has to some degree been eclipsed by a number of even better larger scale options that have appeared since then. Riich Models' 1/200 scale Gato, for example, has superior molding and detailing, and Revell's magnificent 1/72 scale Gato has become the gold standard for USN fleet sub kits ¿ although the enormous model can be a challenge to display! Still, even considering these newer choices, Trumpeter's Gato remains a worthwhile kit that builds without fuss into an accurate and attractive fleet boat.
(TR) Review dated January 30, 2015.
GOOD. This kit is the late war version of the Gato with cut back conning tower, more weapons, and increased number of drainage holes along the hull sides. The kit is identical to Trumpeter's 1941 Gato except for new hull parts with additional drainage vents and a new sprue with late version conning tower with two 20mm Oerlikon guns.
(TR) Review dated January 30, 2015.
EXCELLENT.
This is an injection molded kit that includes two small brass photo etch frets (which consist of railings and ship's stern eagle decoration) and a decal sheet of ship's crests, flags and aircraft decals. Except for the aircraft parts (clear plastic), waterline plate and hull bottom half (Trumpeter’s usual dull red), all other parts are molded in medium gray plastic. I only build waterline models so I will not comment on the fit of the two hull halves or accuracy of the bottom hull half, I will say that the waterline plate fit perfectly. For the full hull builders a cradle type stand and nameplate were also included.
I went all in on this model with turned aluminum gun barrels, WEM brass detail set and ArtWox wood decks. As it turns out I have had the most fun putting together this kit that I have had in many years. With few exceptions which I will note further in all the parts fit very well and all the accessories played well with each other.
First the Trumpeter parts: fit was excellent requiring very little sanding and putty. Parts that did give some fit problems were the cranes and a few parts in the forward superstructure. Nothing so drastic as to cause anything other than mild frustration and that only because all the rest of the parts fit so well. Most parts were so well detailed I found myself not using quite a few of the WEM brass detail parts ( the fret seemed to be geared more to the Academy kit to me). Some issues to look out for would be the ship’s boats being a bit distorted and flashy and a couple of watertight doors and some hatches were nothing more than featureless blobs. However, that was taken care of by the WEM frets. You will want to use the WEM parts for the catapult as the kit does not even include the platform underneath the catapult. Main and foremast parts may not have been properly sized but again the WEM frets provided solutions if that bothered you. It didn’t really bother me as the kit parts looked great and unless I am visited by the ghosts of the ship’s crew there isn’t going to be anybody that sees it that will know the difference. Another note on masts, be careful when attaching the foremast to the superstructure as the mounting points are a little soft and if you lay the part down they may roll over to the wrong position (experience talking). I am not a big fan of plastic gun barrels so I substitute metal ones whenever I can. The main battery barrels on this kit were about a good as you can get in plastic but I like metal better. I did not use any of the Trumpeter photo etch but that does not mean it was bad. In fact, you could build a perfectly acceptable model of this ship without any aftermarket additions. Those railings went into my spares box. Another nit to pick for me is the aircraft parts. I positively hate working with clear plastic parts, they are brittle and hard to clean up. The entire aircraft was molded in clear even though the cockpit canopy was a separate part!
The only other issue I had with the kit was the deck. The deck was in three pieces with two of them meeting roughly in the middle of the ship leaving one to deal with a seam. That problem was solved for me by using the ArtWox wood deck applique (ArtWox decks have adhesive already on them, you just peel off the clear plastic carrier). After gluing the plastic deck to the hull (completing the aft deck pieces first) the single piece wood deck was applied over the top concealing the seam completely. This kit was the first time I have used one of these after market wood deck kits and I can recommend it heartily. It was incredibly thin, easy to apply and somewhat forgiving of misalignment. It looks fabulous when complete. Some have carped that these decks are over scale, wood grain too big, etc, etc. However, the completed model is just stunning when the deck is used and it solves the seam and painting problems neatly.
Directions: very good for the most part with easy to follow multiple page drawings. You will of course want to alter the sequence for painting purposes and if you use a wood deck applique. A two sided color plate is provided with two different paint schemes, early war and as lost.
Packaging: excellent, colorful and sturdy box with cardboard "bulkheads" to keep the parts from rattling against each other in transit. Individual frets were wrapped in plastic bags.
All in all this is a great kit from Trumpeter. It will build up to be a nice model right out of the box or you can go all in like I did. Either way it will be a fun build with an excellent result.
(WJS), review dated 9 December 2011.
Editor's Note: new mold, circa 2010.
Editor's Note: new mold, circa 2010.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Please see my remarks concerning Trumpeter # 05709 as the kits are very similar. However, this kit has 264 parts and a whole sprue of parts to differentiate this ship from her classmates in superstructure and hardware. This is NOT a simple reboxing of the same parts.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See Kirov.
Editor's Note: See Essex-class.
Editor's Note: See Sovremenny-class.
Editor's Note: See Luhu class. (1/200) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Luhu class. (1/350) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/350) (DRW)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Trumpeter also produces the Admiral Hipper Class cruiser Prinz Eugen in this scale in 1945 fit. The ships differ in more than just AAA and minor equipment fit. There is also superstructure differentiation as well.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit with the vast majority of the 418 parts provided in light gray plastic. A clear plastic sprue is provided for the aircraft, two crude photo etch sheets are provided for ladders and railings. Decals for ship and aircraft markings are also included. The upper hull is a one piece casting in gray, the lower a one piece casting in red. A red waterline plate is also provided. Trumpeter has had a consistent problem with mating the upper and lower hull parts and I have heard through the hobby grapevine that many examples of this kit would seem to continue that legacy. I don’t care as I throw the bottom pieces away as I only build waterline. The upper hull piece is well cast and includes the porthole eyebrows, but will need to be lightly sanded along the waterline and in the center of the hull on each side where a thin but noticeable casting seam appears running vertical to the waterline. The main deck is divided into two pieces amidships and utilizes a butt joint that is not quite concealed by the superstructure. This will be a construction issue (not for me as my real wood deck will cover that joint). The deck pieces seemed to dry fit very well to the upper hull casting. Detailing of planking is very finely engraved with butt ends and other deck texturing. Superstructure decks are equally well done. Anchor chains are molded on but look pretty good, I won’t scrape them off and replace them. All parts appear to be crisply molded and flash free. As to parts fit, I reserve judgment as past experience with Trumpeter kits has not been uniformly good (North Carolina and Sovremenny come to mind). Weapons and equipment are very well rendered with even the main battery barrels not too bad for plastic (I’m still debating going with turned brass barrels for this kit). The usual oversized small AAA can’t really be helped in plastic but they aren’t so huge as to be a must replace. To do this kit justice it really needs a full photo etch set. Just bite the bullet a do it because by the time you are done replacing inclined stairways, vertical ladders, radars and railings with generic stuff you will have spent the money for a full PE set.
Directions: multi-page black and white printed booklet consisting of exploded view line drawings. You may want to consider changing the suggested sequence for painting and detailing purposes and as always with Trumpeter kits carefully dry fit everything before touching the glue. Painting and decal application instructions are provided by a full color fold out sheet of the ship in profile from each side and from above. The suggested camouflage scheme should be researched for the time period before you accept it as accurate. KM ships changed their color schemes quite a bit.
Packaging: colorful very sturdy cardboard box with dividers to keep the parts from moving about in the box. All parts bagged and tightly packed with minimal chance of breakage unless deliberately mis-handled. All exterior decoration is art, no pictures of the completed model are used.
This is still a high quality kit and will produce a first rate model. It just isn’t quite in the same league as the Fujimi Fuso or Tamiya Mikuma. For the AMS guys there is already a ton of after market detailing stuff available. I already have a PE set from WEM and wood deck from KA models. There’s no doubt you can just go crazy with this model.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: released circa 2009. Portrays the ship in 1941. This kit, or variants of it, has apparently been issued as:
Editor's Notes: released circa 2009. This kit, or variants of it, has apparently been issued as:
Editor's Note: Announced for 2006. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: There are several kits of HMS Hood presently on the market in plastic. Trumpeter earlier released an excellent kit in 1/350 scale in the 1941 configuration as well as having released this kit and a companion kit in 1/700 in her 1931 configuration. Also available at this time is a 1/700 kit from Tamiya, based on earlier research, and a 1/720 scale kit the the 1936 configuration from Testors/Italeri.
Kit Parts: this is an injection molded plastic model that includes a decal sheet of flags and hull markings. There is no photo etch included. The hull is split at the waterline for the modelers option and includes a base plate for waterline and a display cradle for full hull. Lower hull parts are molded in red, cradle in black, all other parts in light gray. The well over 400 parts of this kit are beautifully molded with excellent surface detail. There is no flash, malformed parts or sinkholes in my kit. Any way you look at it this kit is an extremely well done model. There are some minor quibbles with accuracy on some of the parts (please see the HMS Hood Association's Web Site) but they are for the most part easily fixed. This is one of the nicest plastic kits I have ever seen.
Directions:: excellent, well drawn, multipage exploded view drawings, with an included color plate for painting directions, Mr. Color numbers called out.
Packaging: well decorated, sturdy, tightly packed box typical of new Trumpeter products, very secure.
Builder Notes: care has been taken to avoid exposing seams in the multiple deck parts. Main battery gun barrels molded in a choice of with or without blast bags. The masts are delicately molded in thin plastic so if you want to rig the model substitute brass rod or tubing. PE detail sets are available for this kit, the addition of which will make the model outstanding.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: Presumably same as the 1/350 Burke-class kit
GOOD. (based on in-box review) I saw this kit in an open box at my local hobby 5hop. There are a few things I like. It is indeed very detailed. I also like the fact that it can be built as a full hull or waterline model. The hull is split at the waterline, and the lower hull is molded in a nice dark red.
The problem is the lower hull. The bow is very odd looking, and while I haven't measured it out against a reliable set of plans, I'm pretty sure it's wrong. Yes, there is a bulb bow, but the shape seems kind of blunt. It's sort of like a rounded box, almost like a 1950s vintage Lindberg kit. For now, I'm going to keep fixing up my old Revell 1/480 kits. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Kit is said to have 433 parts.
GOOD. I have the same reservations about the shape of the bow, and the kit itself strikes me as a little simple somehow, but it's still nicely-done, even including a hangar deck. Nautilus Models has produced a resin conversion for this kit, letting the builder construct Yorktown from this kit, and the brass suppliers can provide all kinds of extra nifty doodads for it. (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (1/200) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (1/350) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (1/350) (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Basically same as New Jersey, below, but with variant parts for 1985 Iowa. It is apparently a re-issue of the Skywave Iowa-class.
This kit has apparently been issued as:
EXCELLENT (based on in-box review)
Note: I have rated this kit Excellent in spite of a major flaw found on the hull. For the waterline builder (me!!!) it will not be a huge problem ( the vast majority of builders will build it waterline anyway). However, Trumpeter reused the hull of the World War 2 era Richelieu and this was a mistake. The post war era Jean Bart that this kit represents would have had an anti torpedo bulge added which would have been quite significant below the waterline, but not so prominent above. The modeler will have to add this to the hull of his ship to be accurate. As I write this there is some indication that the after market may provide a solution to this problem, stay tuned.
Kit Parts: this is a plastic kit with a decal sheet included. There is no photo etch (a large sheet of photo etch has been announced by one of the major producers and should be available when you read this). Hull is split at the waterline and base plate is included for waterline display. For the full hull builder there is included a black plastic cradle. Below the waterline parts are molded in red plastic, the rest of the parts are molded in light gray. The parts are beautifully molded with lots of finely engraved detail. Care has been taken to avoid exposed deck seams. Deck hardware such as breakwaters have been separately molded to aid in painting and to increase fidelity of detail. There are no sinkholes, malformed or miscast parts in my kit. There is no flash on any parts either. This is a first rate kit with the exception noted above and one major mistake in the painting instructions.
Directions:: excellent, well drawn, multipage exploded view drawings, with an included color plate for painting directions, Mr. Color numbers called out. The error in the painting instructions calls for the wooden decks to be stained a dark gray, this is incorrect, they should have been natural wood at the time depicted.
Packaging: well decorated, sturdy, tightly packed box typical of new Trumpeter products, very secure.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
GOOD. At a glance the kit looks equally fine as Richelieu, and as 1955 version it includes more AA turrets, and modified superstructure and deck. Still included are good instructions and decal. Everything seems good, but one little thing falls out: The hull is the same as shipped with Richelieu kits. It means that we lose bulges and proper window pattern! This issue downrates the kit. There is a good substitution to that faulty hull by IHP, which fixed issues mentioned. Still there is a good choice of barrels by Aber and Fukuya, and photoetch by L'Arsenal.
(AS), Review dated 24 February 2009.
Editor's Notes: portrays the ship in 1950.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/350) Apparently, this is the version with the helicopter hangar. (DRW)
This kit has been reissued by:
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/200) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/350) (DRW)
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: please see my note concerning ship type designations in my review of the Trumpeter Russian Cruiser Varyag # 05721. This ship is even harder to classify than most. Functionally, the Kirovs were more like battleships or battlecruisers than anything else (they were even armored!), not to mention size, as these ships were enormous having hull sizes comparable to the USN Iowa class battleships.
Just go ahead and buy this big, bad, boy!
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See Kirov.
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following kit:
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following reviews:
Editor's Note: I don't know if this kit represents the Project 877 or the Project 636 version of the Kilo class sub. (DRW)
Editor's Notes: Presumably the same kit as the Skywave 1/700 Kirov.
This kit has been released as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: This kit is a bit of a departure for Trumpeter being of a Japanese vessel. The Kongos are Japanese Maritime Self Defense Force versions of the USN Arleigh Burke class destroyers. They are often categorized as "improved" Burkes. Kirishima, another member of the class is also available from Trumpeter.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic model whose majority of parts are provided in light gray styrene. A small sprue of clear plastic parts is included for the helicopter. The hull is a two piece molding with the upper division above the waterline in gray and the lower hull in dark red plastic. A red waterline plate is also provided. A large decal sheet for the various deck markings and aircraft insignia in included. Some of the decals are large and complex and will require a great deal of finesse to properly apply.
The upper and lower hull pieces fit quite snugly with no apparent under or over laps. The upper hull has an attempt to portray plating detail but it is too pronounced and too uniform to be correct. The one piece main deck is well molded and appears to fit well in the upper hull, however, raised lines are found on the deck where the decals are supposed to go. I’m not sure if they are there to provide location points or to offer the modeler the choice of painting the deck markings instead of using decals. In any case quite a few modelers will find them annoying. The other pieces of the kit are crisply molded and flash free. Deckhouses and bulkheads have good molded in detail that is sharp. I will reserve judgment on fit of these parts as an unknown. Other Trumpeter kits have had issues with fit. Going by the fit of the deck and hull pieces I have more confidence that the rest of the pieces will be better engineered than some other Trumpeter kits. The only other remark I have about the rest of the parts is that there are some unfortunate attachment points to the sprues that require careful removal of the parts to keep from marring their appearance and shape. There are no photo etch parts included in this kit and that is odd given the high retail price. The only aftermarket dedicated PE detail set for this kit that I am aware of is hideously expensive.
Directions: typical Trumpeter mult-paged booklet of exploded line drawings that appears to be more than adequate to build the model. You may want to change the sequence to suit painting and decal placement. I would also strongly suggest multiple dry fittings before touching the glue. Paint colors are called out in Mr Hobby and Mr Color numbers. Directions are in the form of a color poster type drawing of the completed model showing decal placement as well as paint use.
Packaging: colorful very sturdy cardboard box with dividers to keep the parts from moving about in the box. All parts bagged and in some cases wrapped in foam as well as tightly packed with minimal chance of breakage unless deliberately mis-handled. All exterior decoration is art, no pictures of the completed model are used.
This kit will build up into an impressive model and I would recommend it even if it wasn’t "the only game in town". AFAIK there are no other models in this scale of this subject.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been released as:
Announced for 2003, available 2006. Said to have 755 parts.
Editor's Note: Presumably a variant of the 1/350 Burke-class kit
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov (ex-Kirov).
Available 2009. Said to have 338 parts.
EXCELLENT Over 8,000 LCM (Landing Craft Mechanized) were built in American yards between 1942 and 1945. LCMs were designed to transport a single tank or other vehicle from the attack transport directly to the beach under assault. The LCM could be either carried on ship davits, or loaded on the decks of LSTs. A key recognition feature of the LCM is the open grid construction in the upper part of the bow ramp. The LCM was used by both the US and Britain in the D-Day landings. The LCM(3)s were also used in large numbers in the Pacific Island campaigns and the crossing of the Rhine in Germany.
The LCM was originally designed to carry the US Army's standard 30 ton Medium tank- first the M3 Lee, and later the M4 Sherman. The craft could carry 60,000 pounds of cargo, or 60 fully equipped troops. The LCM(3) had a crew of 4 men, and carried two .50 caliber machine guns.
The kit comes well packed in a sturdy box, with each sprue in its own bag. The hull is well secured in a cardboard cradle. Basically, it looks like Trumpeter used the smallest possible box, and then packed it full. The end result is that everything is wedged in there, unable to move around. The end result was that none of the parts were damaged or loose from being shipped.
The kit consists of six sprues, with a total of 161 parts. Additionally, there are 22 parts on a thick photo-etch brass sheet. Also included are pieces of wire, twine, and tubing. A big decal sheet provides a number of letters and numbers to allow the builder to so a variety of boats.
The moldings are of excellent quality. There are minimal ejector pin marks, mostly in places that won't be seen once the kit is assembled. The large hull is molded in one piece, and includes some nice welding details. The hull does have a smooth surface, though- it does not have the rippled hull that a used boat would have. (During normal use, the plating will get dished in slightly, except where supported by framing.) You may be able to simulate this with some careful shading effects when painting.
The bow ramp looks like it can be made moveable, if you're careful with the glue when assembling it. The large lift attachment points on the hull are made up from some of the nice brass pieces. The aft deck and pilothouse area look to be well detailed. The non-skid diamond tread on the deck is very nicely done. The access hatches and bolt head detail in the cargo area is very well done, too.
One of the best parts of the kit are the two .50 cal machine guns. They start with finely molded parts, with separate firing handles, ammo feed cover, and cocking lever. Added to that are nice brass shields and pedestals. A nice little extra included in the kit is a pair of German-style beach obstacles for use in a Normandy diorama.
Markings: There is a single decal sheet with a variety of letters and numbers. Landing craft were generally marked with the hull number of the transport they were from. At the Normandy landings, a lot of boats were just towed across the channel, and carried letters identifying whether they were US or British, in addition to a number. The boat in the instructions carries the markings P77-A. A quick web search showed this was the hull number for the Attack Transport USS Crittenden (APA-77). The Crittenden entered service late in the war, and was used at Okinawa and the occupation of Japan.
Modelers have wanted a 1/35 scale LCM to go with the plethora of armor kits and accessories in this scale for a long time. Now, in 2004, we have two- this one and the new release from Italeri. (WLM), review dated 21 August 2005
EXCELLENT. After they released the 1/35 scale kit, Trumpeter followed it up with a 1/72 and 1/144 scale version of the boat. You might expect the 1/72 scale version to fall midway between the other two in terms of parts count and the amount of detail- but you'd be wrong. This kit is actually closer to the 1/35 scale kit- it was nicer than I expected. This kit looks like a miniature version of the 1/35 kit, with an appropriate reduction in the number of parts.
At first glance, the kit looks like a scaled down version of the 1/35 scale kit. Like it's larger cousin, this boat can be built as either an American or British boat. The kit has nearly as many parts as the larger version, and it includes a small fret of PE parts. A small decal sheet provides a number of letters and numbers to allow the builder to do a variety of boats.
The moldings are of very good quality. The kit is basically engineered the same as the 1/35 scale kit, with some of the same foibles. For example, the interior surfaces of the pilothouse walls all have multiple ejection pin marks that need to be filled.
The bow ramp can be posed in either the closed or open position. Like the larger kit, this one includes the thread for the cable. The pilothouse detail is a scaled down version of the big kit, and the two 50 cal machine guns are very well done, with the base and shield done in brass.
Markings: There is a small decal sheet with a variety of letters and numbers. The decal sheet is a scaled down version of the 1/35 scale sheet, so you can do either a US or British boat. The featured boat on the back page of the instruction booklet is the same Okinawa boat featured in the 1/35 scale version of the kit.
A quick comparison of the three boats:
1/35 scale: 22 inches long, 161 parts.
1/72 scale: 8 inches long, 141 parts
1/144 scale: 4 inches long, 48 parts
(WLM), review dated 21 August 2005
EXCELLENT. Following the success of the LCM in 1/35 scale, Trumpeter followed up with a 1/72 and 1/144 scale version of the boat. These smaller scale boats are every bit as good as their big cousin.
The 1/144 scale boat looks like a miniature version of the 1/72 kit, with an appropriate reduction in the number of parts. The model is a little over 4 inches (10.5 cm) in length. This kit does not include the extra parts to make a British boat- only the parts for the US boat are included.
The kit consists of two sprues, with a total of 48 parts. In this small scale, there is no fret of PE parts, which does keep the cost down. A small decal sheet provides a number of letters and numbers to allow the builder to do a variety of boats.
The moldings are of very good quality. Because the parts are smaller, there are no ejector pin marks. The small hull is molded in one piece, but has some over-scale welding detail.
The bow ramp can be posed in either the closed or open positions. The kit does not include the thread for the cable-the instructions tell you to "provide for oneself". The pilothouse detail looks nice, and the two .50 cal machine guns are well rendered, especially considering the scale.
Markings: There is a small decal sheet with a variety of letters and numbers. The decal sheet is a scaled down version of the 1/35 scale sheet, but without the UK decals. It looks like you can make a variety of boats just using the kit decals, but there are only markings for US boats. Also included on the decal sheet are the markings for a boat from the Attack Transport USS Crittenden (APA-77). (WLM), review dated 21 August 2005
EXCELLENT. In a word, GREAT! Period. I have absolutely nothing else to add. (RDF)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
The kit comes in a large and strongly constructed box. Thus it's odd that my only real complaints are that the upper and lower hulls were both damaged - the upper at several places around the boat bays, the lower as if somebody tried to bend it backwards. Odd, but believed to be repairable.
The kit has LOT's of parts, all with excellent detail and very little flash. The hull comes in upper and lower halves with a blanking plate, allowing a build as either water-line or full hull. Level of detail is very good
for plastic. Comes with 12 28mm gun mounts (getting down to the limits of the plastic here, some imperfections), 12 5"25 assemblies, about 67 20mm and assorted 50cal water-cooled. Also a small air wing - SBD, TBD, and folding wing F4F-4's - probably should be -3's, but I haven't check my refs in detail. So don't build them with wings folded, nobody else will know.
Flight deck in 3 sections, engraving looks good. Lots of deck edge baskets, I'm wondering how much of that would be replaced by various PE sets.
Without removing everything from bags, I can't check the kit precisely against my references but I'm reasonably confident it will give a good look-and-feel. The mold quality is comparable to the Tamiya 1/350 - finer in some ways, coarser in others. The aircraft are definitely better.
Instructions are very good, no worries as yet. Black and white. Neither the box art nor the built-ups on the side nor the color instructions are very good for choosing colors for the ship, but no problem since I have other sources. (Looks like what will be MS21 with lighter-blue stained flight decks.)
I'd rate the kit "excellent" except for the transit damage to the hull, and maybe the three-piece flight deck. Dunno how well that will work. Give it a "very good plus". I'm certainly looking forward to it - like all the other kits I'm looking forward to. (AP), review dated 2 September 2005
GOOD. My first impression upon opening the box was being impressed with how big the hull was! The Lady Lex was a BIG ship! The kit scales out nicely in length and beam to the real ship and captures the look of the Lexington nicely. The parts - especially the AA guns - are very well molded. The directions are clear and easy to follow.
However - if you are building the ship full hull, the directions would have you mate the upper and lower hulls AFTER you've already finished the rest of the model. Do not do this!! The fit between the upper and lower hulls is poor and needs to be addressed first, not last! The lower hull is a little narrower than the upper hull, and needs to be widened using spreaders to get a snug fit.
Two things I was quite disappointed in: There is a tremendous amount of flash that needs to be cleaned up. For a model released in 2005, I find this unacceptable. Secondly, there are sink marks/knock out pins all over the model - many of them in very visible spots. These will need to be filled/sanded/removed.
Construction is straightforward, but not without difficulty. As the old saying goes, "dry fit twice, glue once". I used Gold Medal Models Lexington photo-etch set and highly recommend it - it really adds to the finished model. If you replace the molded on flight deck safety nets, I recommend running a thin strip of plastic along the side of the hull to act as a mount for the photo-etched safety nets. Otherwise, you'll have a problem getting them to stay on the hull.
Other issues I found while building the model:
When finished, the model builds into an impressive looking model, especially if you build it full hull, as I did. The Lexington is one of my all time favorite ships, so I went all out on my build and corrected the things I wanted to. For those of you building it out of the box, take your time, dry-fit as you go along and you'll have a nice model for your collection. To save you some grief, I do recommend building the model in her waterline configuration.
(MJQ), review dated 14 March 2006
OK. Only partially built. The box should have been longer so the hull wasn't warped by excess pressure to the ends during shipping. Funky engineering of hull above hangar deck, anything less than 100% attention to the fit and alignement of parts below the flight deck will result in a deck and/or hull that twists. As usual Trumpeter's hull fit and 3 piece deck fit are not that great. Everything above the flight deck is innaccurate! There is no centerline offset between the tripod bridge structure and the funnel as there should be. All levels on both structures have major errors for the fit the kit is supposed to represent. The funnel wings are grossly over sized. Trumpeter refused to purchase the proposed and actual change plans for Lex's 1942 refit as done at Pearl Harbor, the hundreds of available photos of her last hours of life or CAD drawings done from the plans and photos.....they turned down offers from at least four different people. Trumpeter had access to the original information and declined reasonable prices, there is NO excuse for the accuracy errors in this kit.
(RWS), Review dated 5 August 2007.
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Note: See Nimitz, below.
Editor's Note: See Nimitz, below.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
Doug Hallet tells me that the two kits are slightly different, representing the two ships' different funnels, though he suspects that the Harbin kit's funnel is slightly more correct.
For comparison, also see
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit of 378 pieces has all the necessary parts to distinguish it from the South Dakota and Alabama kits also made by Trumpeter including superstructure, secondary battery and AAA. The kit appears to depict the ship in very late or perhaps immediate post war AAA fit.
Otherwise please see my review of Trumpeter #05760 regarding parts quality, molding, directions and packaging. Painting directions are of a different camouflage measure from the S. Dakota kit.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Note: See notes under South Dakota-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under South Dakota-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under New Orleans Class.
Once you open the box, its immediately evident that this kit is patterned directly on the Aoshima kit. Many of the parts, especially of the bridge island, exactly parralell that of the older 1/700 kit. That said, Trumpeter went to great lengths to address the many problems with Aoshima's - there's little flash, parts fit well, most parts are in scale, and additional detail (such as portholes, hatches, etc.)has been added. In particular, blast tiles on the flight deck have been added, although they are a little out of scale (too large). There are no flight deck decals, but the heavy raised lines evident on the Aoshima kit have been toned down considerably and can stay as are. This is a full hull motorized model, with the motor already installed in the kit. However, you may want to waterline it if you're ambitious, as the hull seems to me to be a little squared in order to improve balance in that Shanghai duck pond. This is definitely the best of the three Kiev/Minsk kits available. Main drawback will be photoetch, but perhaps the set made for those Midway/Roosevelt kits will work here. (DH)
Can be displayed with Revell and Zhengdefu Kits! (RDF)
Editor's Note: See also notes under Trumpeter Kiev.
Editor's Note: See Iowa-class. Basically same as New Jersey, below, but with variant parts for 1987 Missouri.
Editor's Note: Presumably a variant of the 1/350 Burke-class kit
Editor's Notes: Issued around 2005. See Blue Ridge-class.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Please see my notes and review of the Trumpeter # 05721, Slava Class Cruiser Varyag. The parts sprues in each kit are identical, however, the sprues contain the parts for both versions of the class so that the finished model will be different. Differences (very minor) are reflected in the decals, nameplate and directions as well as the final assembly and paint finish. Decals are for the Russian not Soviet Navy so I expect the fit to be post breakup as well.
(WJS), review dated 2 April 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 2000. See also Slava-class.
Editor's Note: See also Slava-class.
Editor's Note: See Iowa-class. Trumpeter is working with Skywave, releasing the new modern New Jersey outside Japan. It depicts her after her 1982 rebuild.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or close variants of it, has been released as:
Editor's Notes: Variants of this kit have been released as:
EXCELLENT. In another word, AWESOME! Period. I have nothing else to say here either. (RDF)
Editor's Note: Issued circa 2004.
FAIR - The Trumpeter release of the 1/500 USS Nimitz class carrier is a welcome addition to the world of ship modeling. Most models of a Nimitz class carrier have been in 1/720 scale or smaller, so a larger scale model such as this is cause for excitement among modern aircraft carrier fans.
In a lot of ways it looks like Trumpeter used Tamiya kits for reference. The design of the instructions, packaging, and pieces is very similar to the Tamiya CVN65 USS Enterprise. In fact the display stand is a direct copy from the Tamiya BB62 USS New Jersey. There are about 170 pieces in total, not including the airplanes. The instruction sheet is straightforward and easy to follow, with references both in English and Chinese. It is 8 pages, but a few of those pages are devoted to wiring the model for operation. All parts are numbered on the sprues, and the sprues come sealed in their own plastic bag.
The one piece hull captures the general lines and shape of a Nimitz class, but has very minimal detailing. The hull length is 26", and the beam is 3-1/8", not measuring the sponsons. That scales out to 1083' length and 130' beam, slightly smaller than the prototype. But at this scale, it's imperceiveable. The overall width at the flight deck level is 6". The general molding of the hull is fair, as some of the details fade away instead of remaining crisp. There is one molding line on the centerline, but that should be able to be removed easily. The mold lines up well, so there should be minimal, if any filling required. The hull features numerous raised squares that represent the many openings and refueling decks in the sponsons. There are also recesses where some boarding decks would be, but these lack any detail. The model has a pronounced bulbous bow, but the molded-in anchors look absolutely horrible. Common sense would dictate shaving those off and replacing with separate anchors. The elevator guides are separate pieces, and the elevators can move up and down. There are twin skegs for the inboard props. However, there are only 2 scale props. Trumpeter provides four props to be used for the powered version, but they are 4 bladed and are very crude. The rudders are oversized, and should be trimmed to proper scale size. The motor is assembled, wired and mounted with the gearbox inside, but can be easily removed. It is held in place with 8 small philips head screws.
The deck is 3 pieces, just like Tamiya's CVN65. Oddly, 3 of the elevators are molded separately, but the forward starboard elevator is molded in place. The elevator warning stripes around the elevators are also cast as raised lines, and should be shaved off and sanded smooth. The landing area is also strange--whereas some carrier models have the landing stripes raised, this deck has the areas inside the stripes raised. The white stripe/arrow for non-catapulted aircraft is also raised. The catapults are simple grooves running along the deck. No access panels are scribed, but there are blast deflectors molded into the deck. Since this model can be powered, there is a small groove behind the number 3 catapult where the on/off switch would protrude. That should be filled too. Test fitting all 3 pieces together, the fit is pretty good. I counted 12 sinkholes in the entire deck. But, since there are no padeyes or other deck details, these can be filled and sanded smooth with the deck. The same goes for the seams between the 3 deck pieces. Trumpeter does include the life raft containers that are slung from the catwalks around the decks, as well as the fresnel landing system, and a close-in support "Phalanx" gun. Unfortunately, they all leave a lot to be desired.
The island also leaves a lot to be desired. The main portion is 2 halves, with the bridge decks stacking on top. It is very similar in design to the Italeri Nimitz island. Each half has some details such as ladders, elongated octagonal raised shapes (radar??) and a few hatches. But the bridge windows are very disappointing. Each window has a recessed post separating them, making the windows look like little raised squares. The mainmast is OK, and is in many pieces. Again, they took lessons from Tamiya because the assemblies are similar. But the radar installations are absolutely horrible. They're mostly solid, smooth with very light scribing. The radar tower behind the island is equally as shabby. Instead of representing a lattice tower, they made it solid with "X's" scribed in it. Scratchbuilding may be in order here.
Once the builder gets past all of the above, there is still the airwing to contend with. The model includes approximately 30 aircraft of different types. Included are the F14 Tomcat, F18 Hornet, S3 Viking, E2 Hawkeye, F8 Crusader, A4 Skyhawk, SH3 Sea King, SH60 Sea Hawk, as well as a few cranes and mules. The best thing the builder can do with these planes is to throw them away. The planes look OK from above, but their profiles are all wrong. The wings are thick, probably about a good 3-4 scale feet thick. Their profiles are grossly rounded, almost like a caricature. They're pure junk. The builder could salvage planes from a Revell modernized Forrestal class carrier. Although the scales are different, the planes shouldn't look too bad spotted on the deck.
Decals are provided with the kit. There are the island and deck numbers, helicopter touchdown markings, warning banners "Beware of jet blast, propellers, and rotors", US aircraft insignia, and a name plate decal. With the exception of the ships numbers, the decals are OK. But the ships numbers are rounded and are totally inaccurate. Replace them.
With all this said, this is probably a good 5 foot model - From 5 feet away it looks good, but don't get up close. I'm sure some aftermarket brass detail kits could do this kit justice. I was fortunate enough to get to see the kit opened before I bought it. I still bought it for $40, knowing the shortfalls. But it is the only larger scale model of a Nimitz class available. So with that in mind, some things become quite bearable. But be prepared to spend some time on it. (RD)
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued at various times as:
Editor's Notes: 05739 portrays the ship in 2005. This kit has been issued at various times as:
For comparison, check out the following kits:
POOR. Released 2005. Worst engineered kit of the last 20 years, fit varies from average to abysmal, mold draft angle very visible on all splinter & spray shields and most gun tubs.
A mix list of accuracy errors and flat out stupid engineering follows-
Hull-
Forward superstructure assembly-
Stacks-
Middle superstructure-
Aft superstructure-
Main turrets-
5" turrets-
Small Parts-
To get something built that doesn't resemble a 1960's era Revell Arizona kit you need at the least to replace the radars, cranes, catapults, anchors, main turrets, secondary turrets and 20mm's....you can get away with the kit 40mm's if you use the Lion Roar PE set. Otherwise Yankee Modelworks resin for mains and secondaries, L'Arsenal for secondaries, 40mm's and 20mm's. Lion Roar PE is a close second in quality and gives you lots of other goodies but only for her last fit (they left out the hawse pipe gratings and have on odd taper on the main barrels). Yankee's PE gives you 98% of what you need, it lacks SG radars and funnel catwalks but will allow you to backdate her to early 1943, Yankee probably has the best set for those new to PE. All three companies have good to excellent instructions. I have not seen Gold Medal Models' (GMM), Tom's Modelworks, or Iron Shipwritghts' (ISW) PE.
I can tell you WEM, Yankee and Lion Roar all worked from original source documents because I know exactly where they got copies of them, my hard drive. With the exception of the bound album NCA in RG-19 if it exists in photographic from at NARA or NHC I have it and they had access to it through me, each of these three companies bought what they thought they needed and what they have produced is correct.
(RWS), Review dated 22 January 2006.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all plastic kit with a decal sheet of flags and hull markings. There is no photo etch included. The hull is split at the waterline and can be built either way. A base plate for waterline display is included. A black plastic cradle is included for full hull display. Below waterline parts are molded in red, all other parts in light gray. The pieces of this kit are very nicely molded with no flash, sinkholes or malformations. Surface detail is very good. (having built the old Aoshima North Carolina and Washington models twice to try to make them look good I can tell you that this kit is a world apart from them in quality and fidelity to scale) Main battery gun barrels are molded in the modeler's choice of with or without blast bags. The limitations of the injection molding process are more pronounced in this kit (and Washington) than on Trumpeter's Hood # 05740 or Jean Bart # 05752. I believe this to be so mostly due to the types of armament carried by the respective ships. NC pales in comparison to the others primarily because of the large number of simplified 40 mm guns and the somewhat over scale 20 mm guns that don't have shields. Some of the other shields (molded into the deck) are over scale as well but the only way around that in plastic in this scale is to not have them at all, substituting instead PE shields or some other form of material that can be more finely molded. Substituting PE radar, cranes and catapults for the plastic parts will make this kit pop!
Notwithstanding what appears to be mostly negative remarks this is a very nice kit and will build into a more than acceptable model right out of the box. I can only hope that the (supposedly) upcoming South Dakota class ships get treatment from this maker at least as good as this.
Directions:: excellent, well drawn, multipage exploded view drawings, with an included color plate for painting directions, Mr. Color numbers called out. You may want to verify the AA fit the directions give for the camouflage scheme suggested before committing to it.
Packaging: well decorated, sturdy, tightly packed box typical of new Trumpeter products, very secure.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Notes: This kit has been issued this kit :
For comparison, check out:
GOOD/EXCELLENT. At last, an accurate injection-molded EC2-class ship in 1:350! It's mostly great. I have concerns about how the deck is split (the fore deck and aft deck are split, with the middle third of the main deck molded into the hull) and how hard that seam will be to clean up. For the most part, though, it looks great. Some of the shields around the gun tubs may appear too thick, but, trust me, they're thick on the real Jeremiah O'Brien! I'm not crazy about the decal sheet's reliance on ready-made typefaces, as they don't seem (to me, anyway) to capture that unique merchant-ship typeface used on the 1:1 ships. On the other hand, paint the ship in war paint, put a "K108" on the bow and a palm tree on the bridge, and you'll have the real-life inspiration for Thomas Heggen's AK-601, the "USS Reluctant." Now that we have a "Liberty" ship, can we please beg Trumpeter for a VC2-type next? (JMP), review dated 25 July 2005
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: Injection Molded Plastic Kit consisting of 264 parts
Kit Parts: this kit can be built with either a full hull or a waterline plate. This is a nice option for some builders who like to have full hull. I am a waterline builder, so quite frankly I don't pay attention to anything below the waterline.
There are no photo etch parts included but there is a decal sheet of flags, hull numbers and aircraft markings. A plastic display stand for the full hull model is also included.
The upper part of the hull (see above, I didn't pay any attention to the bottom) is divided into two parts at the stern to accommodate differences between this ship and the USS Baltimore (simultaneously released by Trumpeter). This is going to lead to some nasty seams to fill in the hull and deck to mate these parts together. Deck planking is fairly fine. Otherwise the parts of the hull and all the other parts are as cleanly molded as an injection kit can be. The parts have good surface detail. What faults it has are really those typical of any injection molded kit to a greater or lesser degree. You will have to clean up multiple injection points from each part, there are sinkholes in some of the exterior surfaces and some parts are overscale due to the nature of the process like AA guns. They are also missing their shields but, let's face it you would have cut them off anyway and substitute brass ones. The radar screen and directors are pretty heavily molded as well as the crane and catapult. You could get away with the crane and catapult but the radar and directors HAVE to go. The main battery turrets have multiple parts to obtain good surface detail but may present some problems in filling seams without losing some of that detail. Gun barrels are separately cast with the blast bags on them. The problems noted aren't any greater than any other plastic kit. With the addition of a PE detail set (including 20 mm guns) this kit will build up into a really great model.
Directions:: A color plate of the ship showing both sides and an overhead view is provided to assist in the painting of the suggested camouflage scheme. Gunze Sangyo colors are called out for the paints. The assembly process is well covered in a series of comprehensive exploded view diagrams.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a glossy reproduction of a painting of the ship as the box art, along with a brief history on the side of the box. All parts are bagged and layered in the box to prevent damage. Hull pieces are separated from the rest by a divider inside the box.
Final Note: when price is considered this kit is a tremendous value. Even the additional purchase of a PE detail set still keeps the final cost very modest.
(WJS), review dated 16 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See Baltimore Class.
Editor's Note: released circa 2009. See notes under Hipper-class
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942. See notes under Hipper-class
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1945. See notes under Hipper-class
Editor's Note: See Kirov.
Editor's Note: See notes under Ushakov (ex-Kirov).
Editor's Note: See Luhu class. (1/200) (DRW)
POOR. This was Trumpeter's very first ship kit, originally releaed under the AA Models label. Although the fit is pretty good, this kit is utterly devoid of detail, which is a serious issue in this large a scale. Funnel shape is horrendously incorrect. You would be better served buying the 1/260 Zhengdefu kit and dealng with the flash than spending your time trying to superdetail this one (although Frank Spahr in Germany did make a decent shot at it). (DH)
Editor's Note: See Luhu class. (1/350) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under New Orleans Class.
Editor's Note: Same as Nimitz, above.
Editor's Note: Portraus the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portraus the ship in 1945.
Editor's Note: Portraus the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portraus the ship in 1941.
EXELLENT. Both versions have minor differences in armament and superstructure. Sprues moulding is excellent, with minor flash. Parts fit perfectly. Included are good assembly and painting instrustions and small decal sheet with flying French flag. Kits are shipped with 4 secondary turrets, while model needs only three. No aircraft is included. There is a good choice of aftermarket items to upgrade the models. Aber and Fukuya produce metal main and secondary barrels, and L'Arsenal produces photoetch set.
(AS), Review dated 24 February 2009.
Editor's Note: This kit (or variants of it) has apparently been issued as:
Editor's Note: Same as Nimitz, above.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 2006. See notes under Nimitz, above.
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy-class.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942. See notes under New Orleans Class.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944. See notes under New Orleans Class.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942. See notes under New Orleans Class.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944. See notes under New Orleans Class.
Editor's Note: See notes under Lexington Class, above.
Editor's Note: See notes under Lexington Class, above.
Editor's Note: See notes under Udaloy-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: I really don’t know enough about this ship to comment on accuracy so I will limit my comments to quality and fit of the pieces.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic model. All parts, except for a small crude sheet of photoetch for platform supports, crew figures and netting, are provided in light gray plastic. A small decal sheet for deck and hull markings is also included. The hull is a one piece casting, except for the sonar dome on the bow. It is devoid of any plating detail or detail of any kind. There is no provision for waterline display of this kit. Taking a saw to the hull is going to be really tricky around the stern. Getting that right will require a good amount of skill. The main deck is a one piece casting with little molded in detail except right at the bow with molded in anchor chains and a few other bits and at the stern for the flight deck. Aft has some deck texturing and incised lines where the deck decals are supposed to go (or if you want to paint the lines in?). Smaller parts are generally well cast and crisp. Some unfortunate seam lines will make life difficult when it comes to assembling the weapons suite. I am not aware of any dedicated PE upgrades for this kit at this time so you will be sorting through generic fittings and railings for this kit to complete it. While not strictly necessary to complete the model, ships in this scale without at least railings look incomplete and toy like.
Directions: typical Trumpeter multi-page black and white booklet of exploded line drawings. They seem more than adequate for the task. Once again changing the sequence may improve the outcome of decal and paint work. Painting instructions are provided on the usual color plate that Trumpeter uses that shows decal placement as well as color usage. Paints are listed for several Asian and Western companies.
Packaging: colorful very sturdy cardboard box with dividers to keep the parts from moving about in the box. The top box art is uninspiring and bland. All parts bagged and tightly packed with minimal chance of breakage unless deliberately mis-handled. All exterior decoration is art, no pictures of the completed model are used.
This one is kind of underwhelming. I bought it because I’ve never seen anything else like it for the Chinese Navy in this scale. You may want to do otherwise. This one is only for diehard modern navy fans.
(WJS), review dated 13 September 2011.
Editor's Note: See notes under Luhai, above.
GOOD. The Shenzhen (DDG 167) is the lead ship for the Luhai class of DDGs, which replaced the Luhus (Qingdao and Haerbin) at the top of the Chinese battleline. This kit is very similar in layout to the Sovremenny, with three piece deck and provisions for motorization. With only about 250 pieces it should be a much easier build. I saw no glaring mistakes, other than solid molds for the relatively two small latice masts. The missle tubes appear to be a bit out of scale (small). Other than that, detail is quite good and the kit will contrast the Sovremenny very well, which it matches in size and legnth. The kit comes with a KA-28 helicopter, although on the pictures I've seen it has been carrying a Dauphin. There's no PE, so you may want to consider buying the Tom's 1/200 set, although Trumpeter's original PE may be convertible here if you ended up buying the WEM set for that kit. (DH)
Editor's Notes: NATO code name "BLK-COM-1", Russian code name "Atlant". The kit is said to have 264 parts. Issued circa 2005.
This kit has been released as:
Editor's Notes: NATO code name "BLK-COM-1", Russian code name "Atlant". The kit is said to have 264 parts. Issued circa 2005.
This kit has been released as:
Editor's Notes: Release circa 2007. This kit has apparently been issued as:
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: The kit contains the parts for a late war fit. Should you wish to model the ship at the time of the Guadalcanal Campaign some difficult conversion work is in your future as you will have to remove molded in 20 mm shields and make other changes to AAA batteries. I suppose if you were clever enough you could buy the Trumpeter Alabama kit and swap out parts to create an early war South Dakota and a late war Alabama....
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit of 371 parts. It includes clear plastic parts for the aircraft and decals. A display base is included for full hull display as well as a waterline plate for waterline display. The hull is split in two pieces at the waterline. It appears to have a more correct shape than the old Hasegawa kits. Solid chocks are molded along the top edge of the hull and will need to be drilled out for a more realistic appearance. I don’t build full hull so I don’t comment on stuff below the waterline. The deck is a well detailed one piece casting with planking etched in that includes a pattern of butt ends, something that all newer Trumpeter kits seem to have. Unfortunately, the delicate look of all this molded in detail is spoiled by the molded in 20 mm gun shields. These look three feet thick and will be really hard to remove. The individual 20 mms don’t have any shields provided. The 40 mms are very simplistic and need a PE detail set. The rest of the parts have good surface detail, the cast in portholes even have "eyelids" or more properly drip guards. Main battery gun barrels have blast bags cast on them and as a consequence cannot be elevated or depressed. You may want to consider replacing them with brass after market units for a more realistic look, however, they are not horrible or grossly out of scale. You will also want to pick up a PE set for the radars and gun directors as these are solid cast plastic (same goes for the cranes and catapults). I know that this sounds terribly negative but the kit is actually very well made and can give the modeler a very nice result just from the parts provided. The more advanced modeler will want to add photo etch to enhance the kit parts. This kit is a huge improvement over previous efforts by Revell and Hasegawa.
Directions: excellent step by step drawings that appear to be clear and all that is necessary to construct the model. A color plate is included for painting the ship in Measure 21.
Packaging: excellent sturdy box, well packed with dividers and braces. All sprues and parts are bagged in plastic. Decent box art.
Recommended buy.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, check out the following kits:
(DRW)Editor's Notes: Said to have over 800 parts. This kit has apparently been issued as:
GOOD.
Notes: Time frame on the fit of this kit is a little iffy but I would think early in its career although there are Russian and Soviet decals included.
Kit Parts: This is an injection molded plastic kit that includes a fret of photo etched parts to supplement the build. In accordance with Trumpeter’s usual practice the kit is mostly molded in medium gray plastic with aircraft in a combination of clear and black plastic with the one piece lower hull and waterline plate molded in red. I only build waterline so the lower hull and all its parts hit the trash immediately so no info there for you full hull guys. The parts are crisply molded with minimal to no flash, however, I encountered more than enough overly prominent seams that had to be sanded down to make the process annoying.
Surface detail was good to excellent. My big problem with this kit was the fit. Trumpeter seems to have a very inconsistent record with regard to component fit. I had a devil of a time getting the subcomponents to fit together properly after assembly. The fit of the superstructure supporting the mainmast radar suite was a nightmare. The included photo etch fret consists of some crudely executed bits for the big radar antennas. They are out of scale and hard to bend. I wound up buying and using the White Ensign Models detail set for this kit. After struggling many hours with the fit of the various parts and subassemblies I was finally able to produce what in the end is a very impressive looking model.
Care and common sense needs to be used with the provided directions and the sequence suggested can lead to unnecessary problems with fit (in addition to the built in ones). Paint and decals for marking suggestions are of course subject to time and stationing with Russian/Soviet vessels. Check your resources before cranking up the airbrush.
While I don’t recommend this kit to a first timer I can say with a lot of patience and lots of dry fitting you can make a great looking ship model from this kit.
(WJS), review dated 7 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
Editor's Note: Same as Nimitz, above.
Editor's Note: See Nimitz, above.
POOR. Several steps below POOR!
Inbox portion first because it is so bad you really shouldn't need more:
Someone gave me a Trumpeter The Sullivans and words to accurately sum up just how bad it is would all be censored . I really didn't think it was possible but they made a crappier kit than their North Carolina.
No joke the USS The Sullivans by Trumpeter is an almost complete waste of plastic. You can use the hull and major structures but if you want something that doesn't resemble the old Lindberg motorized battleships you might as well resign yourself to sanding off all the detail including everything but the locators for the deckhouses off the decks. Plan on puttying and sanding the turret seams and replacing the turret hatches, don't even bother looking at the directors, 20mm's and 40mm's Swipe a set of stacks from a Tamiya kit, sand the "walkways" off all the decks, replace all hatches/doors/scuttles. Sand off and replace all the bracing details (a fair number of which are not even close to plumb), don't forget to sand off the half-assed attempts at ladders (at least the aztek stairs are separate parts). Will Trumpeter ever get a clue what hawse pipes are and what they look like? Also plan on moving the hull side exits for the hawse pipes, no biggie since what's there is not even a bad joke. While you're swiping the stacks from a Tamiya kit swipe the main director, torpedo tubes, torpedo tube doghouse, rafts and aft prop-shaft brace (the thing Trumpeter molded is more appropriate to a BB it's so clunky). So-so attempt at K-guns. What I think are torpedo and AA directors at best vaguely resemble the real thing.....if that. The depth charge loading davits are clunky (OK, so I'm being overly kind myself there). Plan on somehow making chocks and replacing the anemic bitts.
I'll give them this, while crudely molded the props are slightly better than Tamiya's in shape and you can actually use the prop shafts.
It's obvious they copied Tamiya's kit but the result looks like what a Xerox machine on a bad acid trip might produce. They should slap a $2 price sticker on this pig and sell it at the dollar store to kids. Kids won't mind $2 for something to throw together with tube glue and glossy square bottle Testors paint to have something to shoot at with BB guns then give the old Viking funeral with firecrackers.
Now from actually building the pig:
Plan on 85 or more hours of work you shouldn't have to do. Literally sand off everything but the deckhouse locator and the torpedo tube mounts. Glue styrene rod into all the mounting holes except for the 5" guns, 40mm guns, torpedo tubes and the stern gun tub since those will be hidden by the parts. Plan on a lot of putty work but no worries because you're sanding off all the detail anyway. Replace all the doors and hatches, note that no two doors match. Swipe lots of parts from a Tamiya Fletcher as outlined above. Have a DEEP spares box for small parts. Scratchbuild lots of small parts.
In all seriousness, it's cheaper to buy a YMW USS Johnston resin kit than fix Trumpeter's piece of garbage. You need the Trumpeter "kit", a Tamiya kit, L'Arsenal 20mm, 40mm, Mk.37 and 5"-38 single turret sets, decent rafts (YMW), decent PE of your choice that has WT doors and hatches and various bits of styrene & brass stock.
The deck fits and the hull sort of fits, it's a shame they got those two basics right and screwed the rest of the pooch so badly.
(RWS), Review dated 5 August 2007.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out:
Editor's Note: See Essex-class.
GOOD. Overall a very good kit but with some annoying inaccuracies. It shares most parts with Trumpeter's earlier USS Essex CV-9 and USS Yorktown CV-10 kits as well as their inaccurately shaped hull and closed hangar deck roller doors. Unlike Trumpeter's earlier Essex and Yorktown, the Ticonderoga kit has a separate clipper bow part that is to be attached to the main portion of the hull. This will require significant effort to cleanup the resultant seam.
The kit is marketed as USS Ticonderoga CV-14 as she appeared in 1944 with the dramatic camouflage scheme known as "Measure 33-10a". But the kit is more accurate for her 1945 appearance:
Editor's Note: Issued around 2005. (DRW)
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Please see my remarks in the Bismarck review of Trumpeter # 05711 as the kits are very similar. Note that this kit has 290 parts and reflects the differences in superstructure and armament in different sprues and directions. This is not a simple re-box of the same exact parts.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (1/200) (DRW)
POOR. Also released as Anqing, Huaibei, Huainan, and Jiang Wei. This kit is an early Trumpeter ship release, and it shows. The model does sort of resemble pictures of Jiang Wei class frigates I found on the Internet, but the sleek, crisp lines of the real ships are reduced to vague curves on the model. Hull detailing consists of bowling ball-sized rivets along the sheer line. The thing is motorized, so the rudder is oversized and the propulsion system is represented by a single massive screw on an overlong shaft. Perhaps because it is designed for operation, all parts are thick and excessively heavy. The basic structures assemble simply, but detail, when present, is massively overscale. Masts, radars, and weapons are similarly vague, heavy, and covered in flash. A number of extra weapons are included, apparently to fit out other ships in the class. They are so badly done, though, that this isn't really much of a plus. The helicopter is particularly bad; it would have looked crude even in 1/1200, much less 1/350 scale. In addition to all this, parts fit is poor overall. Especially for a runner, this means that numerous gaps must be filled or the thing will leak like a sieve in the water. Since the model wasn't worth completing as a static display piece, I used the motor and prepped it for operation. It doesn't even make a good runner. Overburdened with the heavy motor and batteries, it rides very low in the water. The model is so unsteady that Trumpeter provided a massive torpedo-like weighted keel to stabilize it, which only succeeds in further lowering the ship in the water and making operation rather sluggish. If the old Lindberg ships were good "four footers" (you know, they look pretty good from at least four feet away), this kit would be at best a "twenty footer". In short, this kit is a real dog. On the other hand... having finished the thing, I gave it to my young daughters to play with. They were absolutely delighted with it. And having invested less than ten dollars and a couple of evenings work in it, I wasn't even upset when they promptly sent Tongling to its destruction in the American River.
(TR) Review dated 1 April 2007.
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (1/350) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/200) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See notes under New Orleans Class.
EXCELLENT. Although Trumpeter calls this the "Type 33 Ming", it is actually the licensed version of the Russian ROMEO class submarine. As I understand it, the "Ming" designation is applied to the Type 35, a similar Chinese variant with a wider hull, different sonar fit, and a differently-shaped conning tower.
A great big kit with excellent surface detail, it comes with a right and left hull, a separate main deck, a detailed conning tower, and will make a great-looking ROMEO right out of the box. Fit on mine was generally pretty good, but the main deck required a little filling around the edges.
The forward diving planes have a mechanism that allows you to move the planes to the stowed or deployed position, as you see fit. The after diving planes have an upper and lower half on each side, trapping the shrouded screw propeller between them. Some tricky hand painting will be required for the propeller.
As Doug Hallet mentions in his review of the similar guided missile version, the hull has about a zillion flooding holes. A steady hand, a fine-tipped brush and black paint is probably the best way to go. I got lazy and used a sharp No. 2 pencil to shade in the holes. (MOL), review dated 21 August 2005
Editor's Note: This kit apparently represents the "Wuhan" experimental SSG. (DRW)
GOOD: I'm verging on calling this excellent based on subject matter. This kit portrays an experimental cruise missle conversion of a Chinese Type 33 (licensed Russian Romeo) class sub. At 1/144, the kit is huge, with tons of surface detail. There are several hundred ballast drain holes lines up along the sides of the hull. You're probably a masochist if you want to drill each one out - I say go with the black paint here. Each missle compartment can be individually poratryed in open position. Lots of parts for a sub kit - definitely a must-have for sub enthusiasts. (DH)
Editor's Note: See Sovremenny-class.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or variants of it, has been released as:
Editor's Notes: Said to have 491 parts.
This kit has been released as:
Editor's Note: See Slava-class.
Editor's Note: See Slava-class.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: classification of modern ships has become more and more difficult as the size and war fighting potential of these ships increases with each new type built. This is even more difficult for Russian ships. The distinctions between the designation cruiser and destroyer have become virtually meaningless, however, we soldier on with the older designations for the moment.
Kit Parts: this is an all plastic kit of 264 parts with a nicely done decal sheet of modern Russian hull markings and flags. No photo etch is included. A quick note about Russian hull markings; the Russians, up to now at least, do not mark the hulls of their warships with permanent hull numbers as is the USN practice, but rather the numbers relate to temporary operations or location designators. So, the modeler needs to be aware that the numbers change often. Parts are cleanly molded with very good surface detail and no flash. I could not find any other flaws like sink holes or miscast or malformed parts. The well detailed deck is a one piece molding eliminating exposed seams. The hull is split at the waterline for the option of full or waterline display. A waterline plate, nameplate and full hull display cradle is included also. The molding of this kit represents state of the art in the industry today. The only thing that would have made this kit rate as Excellent would have been the inclusion of a photo etch fret for the radar and platforms as plastic is just too clunky for those things. However, the modeler always has the after market PE makers to depend on.
I highly recommend this kit to first time and veteran builders.
Directions:: excellent, well drawn, multipage exploded view drawings, with an included color plate for painting directions, Mr. Color numbers called out.
Packaging: well decorated, sturdy, tightly packed box typical of new Trumpeter products, very secure.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See Slava-class.
Editor's Note: See Slava-class.
Editor's Note: See notes under New Orleans Class.
Editor's Note: Same as Nimitz, above.
Editor's Note: See Sovremenny-class.
Editor's Note: Same as Nimitz, above.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Please see my remarks for Trumpeter # 05734, USS North Carolina as the kits are almost the same. However, Trumpeter has included the parts to differentiate the superstructure, AA fit and even the hull configuration from the North Carolina so this is not a simple rebox and rename job.
(WJS), review dated 26 March 2008.
Editor's Note: See North Carolina Class, above.
Editor's Note: See Iowa-class. Basically same as New Jersey, above, but with variant parts for 1988 Wisconsin.
GOOD. The kit is marketed as Yorktown as she appeared in 1944 but the kit has certain features which are a mix of her 1944 and 1945 appearance. The kit does not accurately capture Yorktown's appearance at any time. The kit most closely represents her early-to-mid 1944 appearance. But for 1944, the kit is missing the conspicuous quad Bofors mount and tub on the front of the island which was present until her late 1944 refit. This tub and mount were removed during the October 1944 refit so its absence is more correct for Yorktown in 1945. But those purists wanting to build an accurate 1945 Yorktown (perhaps at the time her air group participated in the sinking of IJN Yamato) will also find some modifications necessary. To achieve a more accurate 1945 appearance, the modeler will have to change features such as the shape of the pilot house, fill in the port side flight deck cutouts and lower the two associated port Bofors tubs even with the 5-inch single mounts. The kit comes with three very good renditions of Dauntlesses, Hellcats, Helldivers and Avengers which include clear canopy parts.
(SCL) Review dated 28 January 2008
Editor's Note: See Essex-class.
Editor's Note: See Essex-class.
Editor's Note: Said to have a 1-piece hull.
For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/200) (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Luda class. (1/350) (DRW)
This kit has been reissued by:
Editor's Note: Reissue of the Revell Olympia. (DRW)
POOR.
This kit features some interesting solutions, and contains some important jets: MiG-25, Su-15, Su-7, and MiG-23. None of kit items are good by modern standards, possibly it is the worst accessory aircraft kit you can get nowadays. To recover the day, back box cover contains picture of landing strip and maintainence positions along which could be used as a base for diorama. Possibly you will need several boxes to make strip of realistic length. Kit contains Su-7 not found elsewhere. Experienced modellers might build it into good replica. MiG-23 comes with wings swept. All the aircraft hardly make right impression with top view (they seem well leaner than they actually should be!), and fuselage side profile seems awfully wrong as it looks like someone fiercely hammered the molds. Scale is actually not 1/700, but kit suits well if it is your first experience with tiny aircraft. It may be used for massive wargaming when actual appearance and tiny details are of little importance. Also, it is good starting point for what-if aircraft builders if it sounds at all in such a tiny scale.
(AS), Review dated 22 March 2010.
Editor's Note: old FROG Battle-class mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: The hull is said to be over 14 inches long, maybe 17 inches overall. Includes vacuformed sails. Some sources suggest that the lower hull is colored copper. Issued circa 1966.
Editor's Note: old FROG Exeter mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I think that this kit is made from the Doyusha Musashi mold. I have seen this kit in the box. The single piece hull is 41.7 inches (106 cm) long. The deck is in three pieces, attached with screws. The deck bends in the approprate places, but not quite enough. There are railings molded into the deck. The main guns elevate individually, but the turrets look a bit narrow. (DRW)
Editor's Note: It is said to be molded in white, yellow, and brown, and has sails. The hull is said to be over 17 inches long.
FAIR. [In-box review] This is one of UPC's series of kits depicting patrol boats. Kit #5008-100 is of a Soviet P8 Class fast patrol boat. No scale is listed on the kit box or instructions. The actual length of the boat is 91 feet 10 inches, so the scale for this would be 1/125. The kits of this series all use the same hull and motorizing mechanisms as the Revell PT-212 kit, so the hull is not accurate for the subject. The deck portions and fittings for the kit appear to be accurate based on various photographs of the class that I've seen.
(MSP) review dated 20 July 2008
FAIR. [In-box review] This is one of UPC's series of kits depicting patrol boats. Kit #5007-100 is of a British BRAVE Class fast patrol boat, actually HMS BRAVE BORDERER. No scale is listed on the kit box or instructions. The actual length of the boat is 98 feet 10 inches, so the scale for this would be 1/132. The kits of this series all use the same hull and motorizing mechanisms as the Revell PT-212 kit, so the hull is not accurate for the subject. The deck portions and fittings for the kit appear to be accurate based on various photographs of the class that I've seen.
(MSP) review dated 20 July 2008
Editor's Note: Circa 1970.
FAIR. [In-box review] This is one of UPC's series of kits depicting patrol boats. Kit #5006-100 is of a Japanese Type 7 Class fast patrol boat. No scale is listed on the kit box or instructions. The actual length of the boat is 109 feet 5 inches, so the scale for this would be 1/145. The kits of this series all use the same hull and motorizing mechanisms as the Revell PT-212 kit, so the hull is not accurate for the subject. The deck portions and fittings for the kit appear to be acurate based on various photographs of the class that I've seen.
(MSP) review dated 20 July 2008
Editor's Note: A sailing ship of some variety.
Editor's Note: old FROG Revenge mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be a reissue of the Marusan Shinano. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Circa 1970.
Editor's Note: old FROG Tiger mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: old FROG Undine mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: I think that this kit is made from the DoyushaYamato mold. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Said to be a reissue of the Marusan Yamato. (DRW)
Around 1998 or 1999, they changed their name to Viking. Their 1/700 scale Texas/New York kit was the first model issued under the Viking name.
Subsequent to the 1:700 version of the Texas/New York a 1:350 scale version was produced. Both the 1:700 and 1:350 scale versions had photoetch details done by Flagship Models.
Viking produced several submersible and submarine models, including:
I believe that there were several other submersibles. Viking was also reportely working on a 1:700 scale Edmund Fitzgerald prior to closing their operations.
The Joplin-FX Vietnam-era kits were released under the Viking label
Viking achieved a bit of notoriety in a very public dispute with photoetch brass detail manufacturer Flagship Models over licensing and unauthorized parts reproduction .
Viking closed sometime in late 2001 or early 2002.
Thanks to Ed Grune for his help with the history of Viking. (DRW)
OK. Multimedia kit, resin with white-metal and photo-etch details.Overrall dimensions look good. The casting quality of the hull is poor. The hull on my copy is grossly misaligned in the back, and also has some large air bubbles, so some time-consuming rework is required. Casting quality of detail parts, such as the resin propeller shroud, sail, and white metal fins is good, but will require a small amount of cleanup. Photo-etch parts are good quality. (PPete)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
They also have another line of resin ship kits, called Hi Mold.
EXCELLENT. A very good multi media model of one of the Royal Navy's fast minelayers. The hull, superstructure and two of the funnels are resin with the smaller pieces on sprues so that there is a minimum of preparation needed. The larger weapons, forward funnel, boats, derricks and radar are cast in metal. These are the best metal parts I've seen with polished surfaces & the radar as good as PE equivalents. Brass rod is provided for the masts & some of the supports. Also provided was a Skywave USN equipment set which is only needed for searchlights & 20mm guns if used (so lots of spares!). All that I added were PE railings & 20mm guns. I would have liked to replace the metal derricks with PE but could not find any examples. The instructions are very simple & mainly in Japanese but the only problem was to sort out the colours for the complex camouflage. (GS)
Editor's Note: NATO code-name Kynda. Presumably, similar to Grozny.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
The one piece hull is molded up to the main deck and includes basic details such as anchor chains and finely molded planking. All other parts have good surface detail but the resin ones have a lot of thin flash all over them. It is fairly easy to remove but a pain because there is so much of it. The white metal parts are cleanly molded with minimal cleanup needed. As with the New Orleans kit you will want to replace the solidly molded cranes and catapults with PE, so go ahead and buy a whole set. You will have to fabricate masts, yards and booms from the enclosed stock. The plastic part include AA guns boats and small fittings. You have everything you need to complete this kit in the box if you don't mind the solid cast cranes and catapults. I believe you would be happier with the result if you used a PE set. It is interesting to compare this kit to the newly released Trumpeter version in plastic. The Waveline kit just gives an impression of greater grace. You have to judge for yourself if the price differential is worth it.
This is a good kit but not excellent. It just doesn't compare to the battleship kits in the same series.
Directions:: excellent detailed directions, diagrams and painting instructions.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with picture of finished model as box art. Hull is bubble wrapped and all other parts are in baggies taped to the bottom of the box.
(WJS), review dated 16 February 2006.
Let me start by saying that I have always been awed by Waveline for their quality of their kits, and this one is no exception. The kit is not new though as I have seen it listed for several years now and it is a telling statement that such a kit could easily pass as a new release due to its high quality. As with most of their 1/700 ships, the kit is made up of resin hull, superstructure, main armament, and funnel pieces with white metal parts for smaller bits like searchlights, secondary guns and light AA, ships boats etc. A very small number of pieces need to be cut from a small sheet of plastic card which is provided (as well as the templates for these pieces). Some brass rod is also included for mast details (the tripod legs of the mainmast are in metal, but the tops need to scratchbuilt). No photoetch is included. All the resin and white metal pieces are beautifully and cleanly cast and pieces fit together easily with little cleanup. The hull is nicely detailed but the deck planking is not quite as fine or well-defined as recent WEM and WSW releases. This model is several years old though, so that's nothing to hold against it. Especially nice are the 15" guns. The turrets are resin with seperate metal barrels with molded on blast bags. AA gun platforms, rangefinders, aircraft catapults, etc. for each turret are a mix of resin and metal the end result really captures the powerful look of these weapons. (Interestingly, I always thought the turrets on my WEM 1/700 Warspite looked a bit strange and comparing them to the ones in this kit, there is quite a difference in shape and appearance. Seeing as they were of the same design on the real ships, I don't know which is more accurate, but personally I like the look of the Waveline Barham's better).
One minor omission in the kit is a plane for the X turret catapult, but I haven't really done any research as to what type of aircraft would have been carried (if any), so did not bother me much to leave the catapult empty. The instructions are the typical Waveline one-page parts list and exploded diagram which, regardless of the fact that all the written instructions are in Japanese, usually never caused me any problems. There are several major resin pieces though, that are not included in the diagram including a pair of pom-pom platforms and the searchlight stations around the funnel. These pieces are present in the parts list and both reference photos and the box cover photo of the built model show them in place, so it was easy to figure out where they went. Perhaps the Japanese text gave some indication of these pieces that the diagram did not? In any case, anyone taking a good look at the box cover would figure it out.
Overall, the Barham is another excellent kit as expected from Waveline and makes a great companion to my WEM Warspite showing the different phases of modernization made to the Queen Elizabeth class. (YF)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit consisting of resin, white metal, plastic card stock and brass rod. All resin parts are cast in light gray resin, small parts being on pour stubs, not wafers. One piece resin hull is beautifully detailed with a rich assortment of deck equipment cast into the hull along with deck planking. Hull is cleanly cast and appears to have no defects. All other pieces, resin or white metal, are highly detailed and cleanly cast. Minor cleanup will be needed before assembly. You will need the plastic stock for fabricating some small platforms and brass rod for the masts and yards. This is an excellent kit, well worth the money, if you can find it.
Directions:: excellent detailed directions, diagrams and painting instructions.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with picture of finished model as box art. Hull is bubble wrapped and all other parts are in baggies taped to the bottom of the box.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD.
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: remarks same as Waveline #066 Conte Di Cavour as the ships are virtually identical.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: There seems to be some confusion about this on the company website. I can't tell if they meant to make it as Caio Duilio or Giulio Cesare. Maybe both? But the ships were different. From what little I can tell from the company website, the kit looks more like Conte di Cavour & Giulio Cesare than like Caio Duilio & Andrea Doria. This kit has apparently been issued as
GOOD.
Kit Parts: multimedia kit with resin, white metal castings, plastic stock, brass rod and decals. One piece resin hull that is highly detailed and flawless. Other resin parts very detailed but somewhat flashy. Cleanup is fairly easy but not as easy as other WL kits I have built. Cast metal parts are also very detailed but will require a greater degree of cleanup before they can be used. Main mast assembly is very difficult to get right using the parts provided. Slippery resin requires care to paint if using acrylics to avoid fisheye effects. Builds up into a beautiful model, well worth the cost.
Directions:: excellent detailed directions, diagrams and painting instructions.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with picture of finished model as box art. Hull is bubble wrapped and all other parts are in baggies taped to the bottom of the box. System didn't work very well in my kit as the tape worked loose in transit causing the hull to rattle around trashing some of the other parts.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: NATO code-name Kynda. Presumably, the following kits are closely related:
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. Kit is simpler than you'd expect for the high price (about $100 US in 2016, when you can find one). Hull from the flight deck down is a single solid casting, with hangar deck doors and other hull openings molded shut. Island is cast in individual levels. Sheet plastic is provided so you can make catwalks using the three-view drawings of the ship for guidance. The mast and other fine details will require your scratchbuilding skills. A Skywave "Modern Weapons" tree is included for BPDMS, Phalanx and other weapons/defensive systems. A selection of 1980s USMC helicopters is included, and they look nice. You'll have to supply your own photoetch. The model seems proportionally correct, but be prepared to do a lot of scratchbuilding and fine-tuning. Okinawa issue (WL-85) appears to be the same kit with no significant changes.
(JMP), review dated 9 March 2017.
GOOD (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a mostly resin kit that contains injection molded plastic parts and cast metal parts and a set of decals for the Leahy and others of the class, there is no photo etch provided. The resin is molded in light gray and is essentially flash free (see note on hull). I found no voids, visible bubbles, malformed parts or miscasts. Detail is excellent although somewhat marred by thick cast in lines for the warning areas and helicopter landing areas on the deck of the ship. These will require removal. The hull seems a bit clunky to me. There are some areas of flash around the waterline but they are very minor. The complicated masts on the ship will need to be constructed from the plastic and resin parts provided but I believe you will need brass rod as well. The radar units should be photo etch, which is not supplied, as their large size and prominence looks blocky in solid cast plastic. The superstructure pieces are well cast and highly detailed. The cast metal parts will require a good bit of cleanup. The plastic parts provided are from the Skywave Modern USN Accessory set. All in all a nice kit but not up to the high standards set by the modern USN ships from JAG.
Directions:: excellent line drawings with some alternatives for other ships of the class shown. Text is all in Japanese.
Packaging: the usual sturdy blue box with a silhouette of the ship as artwork along with a picture of the completed model. Parts are bagged and taped to the bottom of the box, hull wrapped in bubble wrap, no filler for the voids.
(WJS), review dated 11 March 2008.
Editor's Note: This kit has been released as:
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit composed of resin, white metal, plastic sheet stock, metal rod of various dimensions and a sprue of injection molded parts. A decal sheet of flags and hull numbers is also included.
This is a kit of highs and lows. The highs come from the beautifully molded detail and the lows come from the hard to clean up parts and the lack of photo etch which really hurts this kit. The one piece hull has great surface detail and finely molded deck planking but mine literally looks like a banana. (a successful way that I have dealt with this problem in the past with other resin kits is to fill a shallow steel roasting pan with boiling water 'til the hull is completely immersed, let is sit for a bit and then remove, with gloves, and bend back into shape)
The other resin parts although they have good surface detail are loaded with chunks of extraneous resin which must be carefully removed. The white metal parts are for the most part detailed, cleanly molded and ready to go. However, you will want to replace the catapult, cranes and solidly cast searchlight platform with PE. Just go ahead and get a complete detail set for this, you'll need it. You will use the plastic sheet for platforms and the rod for masts, etc.
You could just build this kit with what is included in the box but I don't think it would be very satisfying without the PE set. This kit is a bit disappointing compared to the Colorado and California class ships by the same manufacturer. (actually, by Hi Mold, but they're more or less the same company. ed.)
Directions:: excellent detailed directions, diagrams and painting instructions.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with picture of finished model as box art. Hull is bubble wrapped and all other parts are in baggies taped to the bottom of the box.
(WJS), review dated 16 February 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these other New Orleans class resin kits:
GOOD.
Note: this kit is marketed as a Japanese Army transport of the World War 2 era but can be built as a typical passenger freighter of the period which is the way I chose to build it so there is some flexibility in the kit. The military aspect of the ship are add on platforms and do not require extensive conversion to "demilitarize" the kit.
This is a resin kit containing some plastic rod to complete the cranes and masts. The parts provided will give you a bare bones representation of this type of ship. The masts, yards and booms are pretty much featureless but in their defense the tiny size of the ship pretty much precludes much more detail than could be worked without breakage. The hull and lower superstructure are one piece and well cast with good deck detail. There are no railings provided with the ship as there was no photo etch but this ship doesn't need too many railings anyway so a part of one of the after market sets should do this and others of its type. The remaining parts consist mostly of vents, stack, posts and upper deck levels of the bridge. All are well cast with minimum flash and good detail forward. Parts fit was excellent with little trimming necessary. The only real complaint I have about the kit is the solid block casting of the king posts. The resin is too brittle to hollow them out. The recent Skywave kits with king posts have them cast much better. There were no problems or difficulties with assembly of the kit, painting in pre war civilian colors took up most of my time. It really stands out against the fleet of IJN grays in my display cabinet.
Directions:: typical Waveline, adequate with Japanese text and a few parts callouts in English.
Packaging: Sturdy blue cardboard box, parts in plastic bags with bubble wrap taped to the bottom and sides of the box. No packing material in the voids. If the tape breaks the parts rattle around like a pea in a can.
(WJS), review dated 11 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. Multimedia model includes resin, injected plastic, and white metals parts, as well as some brass wire for antennas. Approximately 15 resin parts constitute the hull, superstructure, and ships boats. A few alternate parts are supplied for various sister ships, as all did not look exactly the same over their careers. The resin is fairly soft and easy to cut (a good thing since the raised helo markings molded to the deck would be about two scale feet tall!). The white metal parts (about 22 of them) are for the davits, radomes, and mack platforms
The remainder of the parts are supplied in the form of Skywave accessory sprues: one Modern USN set for the ASROC, Harpoon, CIWS, etc. and two Modern Japanese/NATO sets for the four SPG-55 radars and twin Standard missile launchers. A decal sheet is also provided with a selection of names, hull numbers, and warning and helo deck stripes. No railings or other etched brass are included. Instructions are in Japanese only but it's easy enough to follow the illustrations.
Overall, highly recommended. (ML) Editor's Note: See also notes under Leahy-class (reviewed by Bill Swan)
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this ship can also be built in its civilian incarnation as a part of the OSK Line of Japan. Photos that I have seen don't show significant differences other than the specialized military equipment which on the model is of an add on nature, not molded into the kit parts.
Kit parts: resin kit with white metal detail parts, plastic stock and brass rod for the construction of masts, yards and booms. Much like the Noto Maru kit that I built, Waveline #056, the ships cranes, booms and yards are pretty basic. The kit parts are molded in light gray resin that has some very moderate, thin flash on some of the parts. The hull and lower superstructure is well cast and flawless with good deck detail. As this was a passenger ship, portholes are cast into the sides of the vessel. Other parts are well cast with no ill-formed or miscast examples extant. The white metal detail parts will require some cleanup, similar to that necessary for injection molded parts. Frustration alert: typical of ships of this period (1930s) the decks are braced with a series of posts along the edges. The modeler must cut dozens of these posts from the supplied brass rod or easier plastic stock (not supplied) and glue them between the decks. This will be a tedious job requiring patience and the skill to get them all the right length. So, let the short-tempered modeler beware, extra patience required!
Directions:: good quality multi page drawings that are very clear about the construction of the kit. Text is all in Japanese except for parts numbers.
Packaging: the usual sturdy blue box with a silhouette of the ship as artwork along with a picture of the completed model. Parts are bagged and taped to the bottom of the box, hull wrapped in bubble wrap, no filler for the voids.
(WJS), review dated 11 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. It is difficult to speak in anything but superlatives when reviewing a Waveline kit. If you like 1/700 scale ships and would like to treat yourself to a high quality, accurate kit that builds into a beatiful replica, then look no further. The Waveline Queen Elizabeth is a great kit of a famous ship. (RM)
While I have not bought any of their complete kits, I've bought some of their parts, and they are very nicely cast. Their service is excellent as well. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1983. Etched brass includes rails. Portrays the ship in 1974. Kit includes etched brass detail sets.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1903. For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1983. Etched brass includes rails.
OOB: The usual fine WEM effort, well-detailed and -cast with plenty of photo-etch for the smallest of details. You need to read through the instructions thoroughly before beginning construction, as there is a specific order to the assembly of some of the major superstructure components, plus there are many PE parts that should be reviewed. The painting page is far better than the average model, giving both mixing ratios and a color image to guide the modeler. (JP)
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with two photo etch frets of brass detail parts, railings and brass rod. The PE parts are extremely fine and will require great skill to work with, especially the boat davits, funnel grills and flag staffs. The hull is a one piece casting incorporating most of the lower superstructure, there is some flash along the waterline and some bubbles in the resin that don't quite peek through the surface. The deck while containing lots of detail does NOT have deck planking scribed thereon. All other resin parts are highly detailed, but a bit flashy. The one piece forward superstructure and foremast assembly is really quite amazing. Turrets and barrels are cast separately. It would be best to obtain some brass barrels instead of using the cast resin ones provided. As with most resin kits you will have to fabricate the upper masts and yards from the brass rod provided. NOTE: This is a very early WEM kit and does not reflect the current high standards of that company's products, nonetheless, it will build up into a good model of this ship with some extra care and attention by the modeler.
Directions:: the kits contains parts and directions for HMS Benbow and HMS Marlborough as they were almost identical at this time (1924). All I can say is that the multi page directions are superb, lots of drawings, exploded views and supplemental text are included along with a ship's history and technical data. Painting is covered by textual reference and by a color plate of the ship. WEM has the best directions you will find in just about any kit on the market.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the actual ship and brief history as box art. Parts are wrapped in bubble wrap and then isolated in foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1924. Photoetch includes rails, doors, ladders, etc. See also notes under Iron Duke-class.
EXCELLENT. Represents a long fo'c'sle flower class corvette. A very detailed resin model with brass photo etch and comprehensive instructions on 8 sides of A4. It can be built as a full hull or waterline model. Very detailed, the PE twin lewis guns will test most peoples eyesight! The brass PE is more delicate than the steel used for HMS Jervis and has to be treated carefully. The pennant numbers can be added from Letraset transfers. A very good model and just 3 inches long. (GS)
2-piece hull.
Portrays the ship in 1983.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1982. Etched brass includes rails.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1982.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1982. 2-piece hull.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1981. Etched brass includes rails.
EXCELLENT. Represents a long fo'c'sle flower class corvette modified for minesweeping with an acoustic hammer and a winch for the LL sweep gear. Otherwise similar to HMS Buttercup. (GS)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1916.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1939.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with brass rod for masts and yards along with a photo etch fret for small details. The PE fret contains ladders, platforms, anchors, chains, davits, small mast detail parts, propeller guards and small AA guns with shields. There were no railings included in this kit except as attached to the various platforms. The kit is molded in a light green-gray resin. The hull is a one piece molding incorporating most of the superstructure and is highly detailed and well executed. Portholes are molded in as well as shields along the levels of the ship above the main deck where appropriate. My example had some flash along the waterline and a couple of chips along there as well but nothing serious that could not be dealt with in a few minutes of my time with putty and sanding sticks. The other resin parts were cast on bars and stubs with lots of fine detail. The larger AA guns were crammed with detail and nicely done. There was some flash on the paravanes and life rafts but of a thin and wispy nature, easily removed. All gun barrels except the smallest AA which were PE were cast in resin and were well executed. All in all a very well done model and good example of the resin maker's art. Warning to beginning resin modelers, the parts on this kit are very tiny and delicate, this is not for the ham handed. However, anyone with a little experience in working in 1/700 will not have any problem with this kit.
Directions:: outstanding multipage extravaganza of drawings, color plates and explanatory text (in English). If you can't put his together with these directions you can't put anything together.
Packaging: large, heavy white cardboard box with a photo reproduction of the real ship on the top as box art. Parts are bagged and wrapped in bubble wrap and the remainder of the box is filled with foam peanuts. Excellent system of packing that minimizes potential damage in transit or storage.
(WJS), review dated 11 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1939.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1995.
Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: One-piece full hull version of above. For comparison, check out the Iron Shipwrights Hood (1/350).
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1916.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1995.
Editor's Note:Full-hull version of above.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1982.
FAIR. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts, Directions and Packaging: see my remarks for WEM #K-708 HMS Benbow. The kits are not the same in their final appearance but my remarks are essentially the same, further note that for this kit the one piece forward superstructure and foremast assembly is more crudely cast than in Benbow.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1916. Photoetch includes rails, doors, ladders, davits.
Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. My kit had a total of three very tiny pinholes to be filled and a quick swipe of putty followed by a light sanding fixed them. It did have one BB sized bubble on the after deck surface that was easily filled and sanded using CA. I had no problems with tearout or pour plugs and the fit of all the major parts was spot on! I did find the bridge roof to need a little wedge of styrene strip on each side to make it fit perfectly but that was all of 5 minute's work. The instructions are very good, they could be a tiny bit clearer for complex PE assemblies such as the davits. I would recommend this kit for rank beginners to the resin world.
(RWS), Review dated 5 August 2007.
EXCELLENT. Represents the J class leader in 1945 with a latices mast. A very detailed resin model with stainless steel photo etch and very detailed instructions. The hull moulding includes most of the superstructure with just the bridge and funnel separate. The PE is made up of over 40 different components and goes down in size to depth charge davits which are 2mm high. The only thing missing are transfers for the pennant numbers. Overall a very good model and the best RN destroyer in this scale. (GS)
Portrays the ship in 1939.
OOB: Holy moley! For such a small
model there are a wealth of PE parts. The casting is excellent, and as
long as you have experience working with resin and very fine
photo-etched parts this will come together as a spectacular model.
(JP)
Editor's Note:Presumably, mostly the same as Kashmir, above.
EXCELLENT. This kit had some minor tearout to cleanup in the heavily braced area forward of the #2 gun mount. No voids or pinholes. No fit problems of any kind. One white metal part was missing and I received the wrong type of after deckhouse, I bought my kit when it was first released and WEM had several others released the same day; John at WEM and I both think it was simple packing error and that happens from time to time no matter what the product is. WEM cheerfully supplied the missing part and correct deckhouse. Very good instructions but some of the complex PE assemblies could be a little clearer. The kit has parts to build a few other variants of the J/K/N classes. If you can build a plastic kit with PE this kit would be a good first resin kit.
(RWS), Review dated 5 August 2007.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1982.
Same as above, with lower hull.
Portrays the ship in 1916.
Same as above w/ separate lower hull.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1940.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1995.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1990.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1985.
Editor's Note:Same as above w/ separate lower hull.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1980.
OK. I have down graded this from my last review after further work with this kit. Detail is lacking to some degree, but it is the only production PHM on the market large enough to see any real detail. The Mk75 gun mount and the Mk92 radome are shaped wrong (Nothing new here as everybody seems to get these two wrong). The Mk75 is too flat on top and the Mk92 antenna is too short. The M92 has a more slender appearance than what is displayed here. The Harpoon quads would best be rebuilt from scratch or a set from Veterans. These are absolutely excellent and while the quads mounted on the PHM's were the light weight version, very few people would ever know the difference (especially sense few even know there was a light weight version!!)
The flair of the hull is too fat from about amidships to the bow. Sanding will be required to fix this. The superstructure is a bit to narrow, walking on the main deck you could put your hand on the bulkhead and touch the life line at the same time.
The foils are all too thick. Since they are made of metal correcting them is not easy. I am trying to make new ones to no avail. The basic shape of the kits is very good and can be made into a very nice PHM but with a lot of work.
(RDF), review dated 6 January 2009.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1940. Includes Osprey seaplane.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1940.
EXCELLENT. Tiny kits only about an inch or so long but well detailed and with full photo etch (for those of us who dont care about our sight).
Two kits in the pack both well moulded given the limitations of their small size the photo etch is one hell of a challenge but worth it. Built mine on a small diorama with both boats out of the water on chocks so that you can see the props and prop shafts (I'm not kidding they included prop shafts!).
Great little kits for a quick satifying build. (AMS), review dated 14 February 2006
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with an extensive fret of photo etch detail parts included as well as brass rod for mast assemblies. Everything you need to assemble this model is included in the box.
The one piece hull incorporates most of the lower superstructure elements and is superbly cast. The detail is absolutely incredible. Deck planking is so fine as to be almost invisible (in scale!) to the naked eye. There will be minor cleanup needed along the waterline but otherwise the casting is perfect.
All other resin pieces are cleanly cast and highly detailed. An incredibly fine, 3D PE set is packaged with this kit that not only offers everything you will need to create a museum quality model but even offers alternative parts or options for the builder who wishes to maintain complete fidelity of scale over ease of construction.
There really aren't enough superlatives to describe this kit. However, be warned, this is NOT a kit for the beginning modeler. Excellent painting and construction skills are required to do justice to this great ship and to preserved all of the fantastic detail of the model.
Directions:: are, quite simply, fantastic. Clear, concise, step by step instructions, with alternatives, using text (in English) and exploded view diagrams of every part of the construction process are provided. All parts are clearly identified and illustrated. An excellent painting diagram in the form of a color plate with color names called out in their official R.N. designations. These are far superior directions than most injection molded kits as well as resin.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked, corrugated cardboard box with a color illustration of the ship as the box art. Hull and small resin parts securely bubble wrapped, brass rod and PE bagged and secured to the bottom of the box. The box was then filled with foam peanuts.
This is an absolutely outstanding kit well worth the price!
(WJS), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1918.
EXCELLENT. This is a first class kit of an impressive and beautiful ship.
The Renown and her sistership the Repulse were built as battlecruisers during the first half of WW1, and fall between the earlier, lighter-gunned Invincibles, and the Hood, being armed with 15" guns but only six of them. The Repulse is perhaps better known for being sunk off Malaya, but the Renown had quite an active war without any spectacular events.
The Renown was substantially rebuilt between 1936 and 1939, and thus differs greatly from her sistership after the latter date. This makes the kit all the more interesting, and a good comparison with the WEM Warspite, also modernised but not quite so drastically. Whilst the Warspite appears quite short and wide from above, the Renown's long sleek lines show her design for speed.
This is an impressive kit. The hull is nearly 14" long, and is level throughout, requiring no adjustment to sit square on a base. The moulded detail is comprehensive and very sharp (sharper than that on the Starling also recently reviewed). Gun tub plating is commendably thin. Superstructure parts go together very easily though care is needed to make sure they are all centred; some dry runs are essential, I found. There are 90 resin parts in all, and a very comprehensive PE set. The twin 4.5" mountings are particularly neatly portrayed, with scale barrels. Care has to be exercised with the aftermost pair to avoid conflicting with the etched railings and stairways, or at least making their placing very tricky. Placing the larger boats on the platform round the after funnel is also quite tight, and if you use the etched cradles, it makes sense to glue them to the boats first rather than the deck.
The PE set is very full and includes a surplus quantity of single and twin 20mm as added later, though these are not referenced in the instructions. A more than adequate number of doors, hatches, ladders and railings are included. As standard with WEM, pom-poms are provided in both etched and resin form; personally, I prefer the three diminsional resin versions but add the etched sights and safety railing. Cranes, yagi radar aerials and Type 281 masthead radar antennae provide eye-catching and minute detail that test the sight and hands of the modeller. The 281's in particular are infuriatingly delicate to asemble, and there is an error in either the instructions or the etch in that the crosswise braces are too short to meet the other side, which is not immediately apparent. Never the less, in this scale there is no alternative to PE for such fine detail, and they do look good. Another good feature of the PE set is the provision of rangefinder and binocular pedestals to fit along the bridge platforms.
My only quibbles on the PE are:
The instructions are to WEM's high standards, comprising 11 pages showing all resin and etched parts, staged assembly diagrams and an impressive 3-view colour chart. The 5 colour camouflage scheme is a challenge to paint but looks wonderful when completed.
My source for the Renown was Raven & Roberts British Battleships of WW2 which has a detailed set of plans for this period.
(JRC), review dated 3 February, 2006
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941. One-piece hull.
Same as above, waterline.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note:Same as above, w/ one piece full hull.
EXCELLENT. The Black Swan class sloops played a major part in the Battle of the Atlantic from 1942, being designed as convoy escorts from the outset. HMS Starling was particularly distinguished as the ship of Captain F J Walker, the leading RN anti-submarine group leader. This is a good choice of release that moves away from the glamorous capital ships to the real workhourses of the war.
The Starling entered service in 1943, was modified in 1944 and again more drastically in 1948 when she was converted to a training ship. The WEM kit represents the ship as built, and includes some etched parts to cover the 1944 fit.
As we have grown to expect from WEM, the resin parts are comparatively few and contain a large amount of moulded detail, especially on the main hull piece, which shows a large number of depth charges, winches, lockers, etc, all correctly positioned and not over-scale. Parts are easily located in place, though being a small kit, some clearances are very tight. My only criticism would be of the twin 4" units which are not up to the standard of the other parts, having short, over-scale barrels, a problem easily remedied. The etch sheet includes all the usual railings, 20mm singles and twins, yagi radar aerials, davits, superstructure supports, stovepipes, etc. This sheet includes parts for the lattice mast installed in 1944, but not for the Hazemeyer 40mm mounts that replaced the wing 20mm twins; the modeller wishing to represent the late-war version will have to scratch build these. Provision of the bridge canopy fitted on completion is a nice touch, and beautifully rendered. Also helpful is the inclusion of the horizontal supports for the foremast tripod in a form that makes their accurate placing easy.
The instructions are well-presented with the fit variants made clear, and with alternative colour schemes.
My main source for this build was the plan in John Roberts' British Warships of WW2. (JRC), review dated 2 February, 2006
EXCELLENT. Just received the White Ensign Models 1/350 USS Stoddert, DDG 22, Charles F. Adams class destroyer, 1989 fit. It is a very fine kit, I highly recommend it, if you are into this era. It has a two piece hull, split at the waterline. Also has separate superstructure, stack housings and bridge, all of which have keyed fits for exact placement/assembly. It has two sheets of etched brass, including very fine railings, antennae etc. Additional resin parts are cast attached to a "sprue bar". The resin is holeless, no pits, runs or errors. Propellers are etched brass, I would probably prefer cast resin or metal. There cast metal parts, including the mast asssembly, all of which are very clean. It is a beautiful kit. (PLH)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit with an extensive fret of photo etch parts and brass and plastic rod to fabricate masts. The hull is a one piece casting molded in yellow resin. It will require some clean up as a result of a large lump on the bottom. The other resin parts are well molded in a variety of colors. All parts have good surface detail but all will require lots of clean up. The PE fret is excellent and includes everything you will need to complete the kit. This kit is worth buying and building even though it is one of their older issues. I don't know if this kit has been retooled or not by WEM but even if it hasn't it is still worth looking for.
Directions:: All I can say is that the multi page directions are superb, lots of drawings, exploded views and supplemental text are included along with a ship's history and technical data. Painting is covered by textual reference and by a color plate of the ship. WEM has the best directions you will find in just about any kit on the market.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the actual ship and brief history as box art. Parts are wrapped in bubble wrap and then isolated in foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 19 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the sub in 2000.
Editor's Note: Portrays the sub in 1999.
Future Release.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1916.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is resin kit with two frets of brass photo etch detail parts and brass rod stock. The photo etch includes both railings and an incredibly wide assortment of delicate ship's fittings. The label on the outside of the box warns you that this kit is suitable for modelers with intermediate or advanced skills. They're NOT KIDDING! The brass fittings alone are extremely fine and will require very careful handling.
The one piece hull casting incorporates what can only be described as an incredible amount of fine detail. The hull planking is so fine that it stretches the abilities of my trifocals just to see it! (you can't be heavy handed with the paint on this ship or you will lose most of this detail). All other resin parts are very well detailed too. There will be some cleanup required before assembly so great care will have to be taken to preserve all of that fine detail. This is NOT a kit for beginners! You can produce (if you will forgive the banality) a museum grade model with this kit if you have the patience and skill to work with these materials.
Directions:: All I can say is that the multi page directions are superb, lots of drawings, exploded views and supplemental text are included along with a ship's history and technical data. Painting is covered by textual reference and by a color plate of the ship. WEM has the best directions you will find in just about any kit on the market.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a photo of the actual ship and brief history as box art. Parts are wrapped in bubble wrap and then isolated in foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Portrays the ship in 1942.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1940.
| Jinan | Zhuhai |
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the Trumpeter Jinan . (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, a re-issue of the Trumpeter Zhuhai . (DRW)
WSW - Modellbauversand"Steel Navy" e-magazine keeps a web page for them.
Kornbindstr. 132
78056 VS-Schwenningen
Germany
Fax: +49-7720-31635
| Abdiel | Ajax | Badsworth | Belfast | Burwell |
| Fernie | Hero | Iron Duke | Jupiter | Repulse |
| Suffolk | Warspite | Vanguard |
Portrays the ship in 1904/1905.
EXCELLENT.
Kit Parts: multimedia kit consisting of gray resin, white metal detail parts, brass rod and a set of decals for the turret tops. One piece resin hull that incorporates most of the superstructure. This is so complete that you will only be adding weapons, cranes, stacks, boats, boat equipment, searchlights and mast assemblies! Parts are beautifully molded and require very little cleanup. Baden and Bayern are virtually identical with some differences to the ships and kits. Baden's main battery gun barrels are molded with the turrets. Bayern has separate white metal barrels. Baden does not have torpedo nets and booms but Bayern is so equipped. This will make for a major difference in the appearance of the ships.
The only assembly difficulty that arose with the ship lies in the removal (without damage) of the platform braces from their casting wafers. You will need patience and good Xacto blade skills (keep those #11s sharp). While the metal mast parts are unsuitably soft for rigging they are just fine if you don't plan on rigging the ship. I didn't rig mine because I just can't seem to motivate my team of trained spiders!
This is a fantastic kit by any measure and should be in your collection.
Directions:: consist of 2 double sided sheets in German and English containing a brief history, basic statistics, parts inventory, painting instructions, line drawings of side and overhead views and exploded view assembly instructions of superstructure and mast assemblies. Directions are clear and unambiguous.
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: Apparently, this kit has been issued as:
For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT.
See remarks for WSW #700-004 SMS Baden as these ships are virtually the same except as noted.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with brass rod included for the ] masts and yards. Parts molded in gray resin, some on pour stubs others on ultra thin wafers. All parts easily removed from casting agents. Main and secondary battery turrets have gun barrels molded on with no flash or extraneous resin hunks. One piece hull is molded with most of the superstructure as is typical of WSW kits. Also included in what I believe to be unique to WSW are the metal rod supports fixed into the deck to support the upper structures. Detail is excellent and castings are flawless. There are torpedo net boom assemblies in this kit as this version is for early in the war. Masts and yards must be fabricated from included brass rod.
Directions:: 2 one sided pages consisting of English and German painting instructions, parts inventory and side and overhead view line drawings with numbered parts called out as to their location. The directions are adequate but hardly detailed.
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping. Well, maybe damage will be eliminated, in my kit the barrels on several of the turrets were broken, not a big problem to fix but annoying.
(WJS), review dated 4 March 2008.
Portrays the ship in 1943.
EXCELLENT. One of best kits produced by anyone anywhere. Shows ship in Jutland configuration, with molded-in torpedo nets and monopod mast. Exceptionally fine 3-D detail with crisp sharp edges in all resin castings. Resin gun tubs and screens amazingly thin. Some white metal parts, ironically less finely cast than the resin. No PE provided. Instructions negligible-- exploded view only; references will be needed. Quick build out of the box produces excellent model--could be complete in a day or two. Type A personalities will want to add PE, replace masts and white metal, add some fine detail to cranes, bridge, etc. (DS)
EXCELLENT. See remarks for WSW #700-004 SMS Baden as to quality of parts, ease of build, directions and directions. Obviously this is a different class and type of ship, being a battlecruiser and not a battleship but the essential excellent nature of the kit is the same if not the same ship.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with brass rod included for the masts and yards. Parts molded in gray and khaki resin, some on pour stubs others on ultra thin wafers. All parts easily removed from casting agents. Main and secondary battery turrets have gun barrels molded on with no apparent problems. One piece hull is molded with most of the superstructure as is typical of WSW kits. Detail is excellent and castings are flawless. There are no torpedo net boom assemblies in this kit as this version is for later in the war. Masts and yards must be fabricated from included brass rod.
Directions:: 2 one sided pages consisting of English and German painting instructions, parts inventory and side and overhead view line drawings with numbered parts called out as to their location. NOT very good directions.
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
(TR) Review dated 10 May 2006.
EXCELLENT. See remarks for WSW #700-004 SMS Baden as to quality of parts, ease of build, directions and directions. This is, of course a different class of ship but the essential nature of the kit, if not the ship, is the same as Baden. Buy it, it is a lovely kit.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these kits:
Portrays the ship in 1939/40.
Portrays the ship in 1945.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit molded in light gray. No photo etch fret is included. The hull is a one piece casting with superstructure elements incorporated. In addition, many finely molded deck details are also present. Hull sides have good surface detail and molded in portholes (somewhat unusual for a resin destroyer kit, the modeler is almost always stuck drilling his own for the smaller ships). Detailed gun mounts and thin shields are outstanding features of this kit. There are a number of steel rods in the deck that are part of the superstructure supports that sometimes appear in kits from this maker. It is a nice feature that saves the modeler a tedious job.
There is some flash along the waterline that must be sanded off but it does not interfere with the detail. Other kit parts are well detailed and cleanly molded for the most part, a few pieces have little wispy bits of flash, almost like tiny flakes of frost, that come off with your fingers. Parts are cast on the usual mix of pour stubs and paper thin wafer, much easier to remove than the products of many other vendors. The AA battery includes extras for the fumble fingered. You will have to fabricate your own masts and yards from your own plastic or metal stock. There are no davits included either so you'll be making them too.
This kit is a must have for French Navy fans and well worth buying.
Directions:: one double sided page with a parts inventory, painting instructions in English and German and a large exploded view assembly diagram.
Packaging: thin, mushy, cardboard box that is easily crushed with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. Hull is bagged and attached to a cardboard brace. All other parts are bagged with foam peanuts to cushion them.
(WJS), review dated 19 February 2006.
Portrays the ship in 1943.
EXCELLENT
See remarks for WSW #700-004 SMS Baden as to quality of parts, ease of build, directions and directions. Obviously this is a different class and type of ship, being a battlecruiser and not a battleship but the essential excellent nature of the kit is the same if not the same ship.
Build up notes: alignment points are present for the torpedo net booms so this eases the construction of this part of the ship considerably. The braces for the search light platforms require patience and skill to cut out from the casting wafer so take your time. You can use left over wire stock for the jack staff and stern flag staff. There are no stack grilles so the ambitious among you might want to try to fabricate some from florist's wire. Even without the complex cloud of rigging installed (as you might know from my other reviews I no longer attempt rigging in this scale as my team of trained spiders has run away to the circus) this still makes for an impressive model of a handsome ship.
(WJS), review dated 4 March 2008.
EXCELLENT.(based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with the addition of brass rod for masts, yards, booms and torpedo net supports. One piece hull molded up to the main deck in gray resin that is beautifully cast with no flaws and absolutely crammed with detail including the specialized deck planking pattern found on Russian dreadnoughts of this period. While it may be overscale it nonetheless captures the look of the decking extremely well. Lots of other things are molded into the deck and it really looks like the busy deck of a battleship should look. The relatively few other parts (this was after all a ship with a very simple superstructure) are cast in yellow resin on wafers and pour stubs. There is some flash that must be removed, however, it doesn't look too difficult. Main battery turrets and gun barrels are cast together cleanly with good detail. Masts are provided in resin but are too fragile to be of much use in rigging the ship if that is what you plan to do. This is a very nice kit that I highly recommend.
Directions:: two double sided pages that consist of a parts inventory, line drawings of overhead and side views, painting instructions in German and English, and exploded view drawings of the various subassemblies.
Packaging: thin, mushy, cardboard box that is easily crushed with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. Hull is bagged and attached to a cardboard brace. All other parts are bagged with foam peanuts to cushion them.
(WJS), review dated 13 February 2006.
FAIR/GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: there are two kits in this box. In addition to the Potemkin the box also contains the parts to make Torpedo Boat #107, The Narwa.
Kit Parts: This is a resin kit with supplementary brass rod for masts, yards, gun barrels and anti-torpedo booms. There is no photo etch included. The hull is a crisply cast one piece affair with most of the central superstructure cast in place. Metal rods are cast into the superstructure to support additional parts. Small parts are cast on sprue like plugs with the exception of additional decks which are cast on a thin sheet of resin that will be easily sanded away to remove the parts. Detail is nice but over scale. Deck planking is etched in and attempts to capture the unique pattern found on Russian battleships but the effect is marred as it is too big. There are no coal scuttles or hatches cast into the deck. Smaller parts are very well cast with good detail. The one piece masts are really well done (if a bit over scale). The casting is for the most part flawless and a decent enough model can be made from the parts provided, the single biggest problem is the parts are just to big for the scale. Unlike Combrig, WSW includes parts and directions for anti-torpedo net defense. You will still need to create the netting and platform as well as rig the booms but at least WSW acknowledges their existence.
Directions: Two black and white sheets of photographic inventory and rudimentary drawings showing parts placement. They are barely adequate to complete the vessel.
Packaging: medium weight folded cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as artwork. All parts, including the hull are bagged in plastic and surrounded with foam peanuts.
Compared to the fineness of detail found in the new Combrig kits this kit feels crude. However, the parts are robust and well cast. This kit would serve as a good intro for a modeler wishing to try out his skills in resin.
(WJS), review dated 27 September 2011.
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out these other New Orleans class resin kits:
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with brass rod included for the torpedo net booms. Parts molded in gray and khaki resin, some on pour stubs others on ultra thin wafers. All parts easily removed from casting agents. Main and secondary battery turrets have gun barrels molded on with no apparent problems. One piece hull is molded with most of the superstructure as is typical of WSW kits. Detail is excellent and castings are flawless. You will want to fabricate your masts (supplied in resin) with brass if you choose to rig this ship as the resin is just too delicate to take the strain of the mass of rigging found on these ships. Don't forget to feed your team of trained spiders or they won't help with the rigging!
Directions:: 2 one sided pages consisting of English and German painting instructions, parts inventory and side and overhead view line drawings with numbered parts called out as to their location. NOT very good directions.
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin model with two frets of photo etched brass detail parts and brass rod stock. All resin parts are cast in medium gray on a combination of pour plugs and wafers. One piece hull casting incorporates the lower superstructure and is just exquisite! Fantastic fine detail is just crammed into this hull casting. All other resin pieces are finely detailed including the main battery turrets which have both blast bags and gun barrels cast into them with a very fine final product. PE includes railings, ladders, crane, catapult, davits and stack grill. You will have to fabricate the upper masts and yards from the enclosed brass rod. This is a superb kit that should be in every battleship collection.
Directions:: include one color plate paint guide, side and overhead view line drawings, numbered parts inventory, and a step by step assembly guide using photos of the actual model as the diagram for parts placement.
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Notes: For comparison, check out these kits:
EXCELLENT. See remarks for WSW #700-004 SMS Baden as to quality of parts, ease of build, directions and directions. Obviously this is a different class and type of ship, being a battlecruiser and not a battleship but the essential excellent nature of the kit is the same if not the same ship.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: all resin kit with no photo etch or metal parts. All parts molded in light gray resin. Hull, incorporating lower superstructure is a one piece casting that is exquisitely molded with beautiful detail that is absolutely flawless. Main battery turrets have their barrels molded in but not only is this not the problem usually found using this method, the turrets are actually crammed with detail and easy to remove from their casting agent. All other parts are molded on pour stubs or extremely thin wafers that are very easy to remove. This is an exceptional kit crammed with fine detail that I cannot say enough good things about!
Directions:: Line drawings of side and overhead views incorporating assembly hints along with another page of small exploded views of aircraft and bridge assemblies. Instructions in German and English. Painting instructions are included on the parts list.
Packaging: typical WSW with a thin cardboard box sporting a line drawing on the top as box art. Parts separated into little baggies and all are surrounded with lots of foam peanuts.
(WJS), review dated 6 February 2006.
Portrays the ship in 1916.
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with no photo etch. Parts molded in gray resin, some on pour stubs others on ultra thin wafers. All parts easily removed from casting agents. All parts are nicely detailed and pretty much flawless with the exception of the lower area of the hull on my sample. There were some minor bubbles and flash along the waterline, easily cured with a little putty and sanding, otherwise other parts were quite well done with one other exception. Main battery guns are molded separately and quite frankly aren't very good, here it would be best to pick up some turned metal barrels or fabricate your own from some syringe tubing, while you are at it the tubing would be better looking fort the secondary battery as well. One piece hull is molded with most of the superstructure as is typical of WSW kits. Detail is excellent and castings are flawless (with the above noted exceptions). You will want to fabricate your masts (supplied in resin) with brass if you choose to rig this ship as the resin is just too delicate to take the strain of the mass of rigging found on these ships. Don't forget to feed your team of trained spiders or they won't help with the rigging!
Directions:: 2 one sided pages consisting of English and German painting instructions, parts inventory and side and overhead view line drawings with numbered parts called out as to their location. NOT very good directions, you will want to supplement them with photos or plans.
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 4 March 2008.
Portrays the ship in 1939.
EXCELLENT. (based on In Box Review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit molded in medium gray resin. There is no photo etch, brass rod or decals. The hull and most of the superstructure, as with most WSW kits, is molded in one piece. The hull, deck and superstructure are highly detailed and beautifully molded with no flash, bubbles or short casts. The separately cast upper decks and platforms are well detailed and flawless. They must be removed from a casting wafer but that wafer is blessedly thin, so thin in fact that merely touching the part starts to remove it. The other parts are cast on little plugs. The ship's boats will need a bit of careful knife work to remove without damage but not anything to sweat about. The main battery and deck guns are molded with the barrels in place and have a small amount of flash that must be removed. You will need to provide your own brass rod or tubing to complete the masts and yards as none was provided in my kit (this may be a break with past practice by WSW or simply an omission on my kit). The only things that would make this kit better would be the inclusion of photo etch and turned metal barrels for the main battery guns. You can use what is included and it will look terrific but the addition of PE and metal barrels would make this kit outstanding.
Directions:: one double sided sheet which consists of a photo inventory of the few parts in the kit and rudimentary instructions for parts location. Don't be alarmed as much more than that isn't really needed as this is a fairly simple kit. You will need to research to rig the ship. The directions also call out the prewar paint scheme of all German large ships which is correct for 1939 (in both English and German).
Packaging: sturdy white cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship on the top of the box. All parts are separated into plastic bags and the box is crammed full of odd sized foam peanuts to keep the damage to a minimum.
(WJS), review dated 4 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is an all resin kit with brass rod included for the torpedo net booms. Parts molded in gray and khaki resin, some on pour stubs others on ultra thin wafers. All parts easily removed from casting agents. One piece hull is molded with most of the superstructure as is typical of WSW kits. Detail is excellent and castings are flawless with one exception. Main battery gun barrels are cast separately in resin and are, quite frankly, poor. It would be best to get brass barrels on the after market. This is the only real clinker in an otherwise excellent kit. My example is an early production example and this problem may have been corrected in later issues.
You will want to fabricate your masts (supplied in resin) with brass if you choose to rig this ship as the resin is just too delicate to take the strain of the mass of rigging found on these ships. Don't forget to feed your team of trained spiders or they won't help with the rigging!
Directions:: 5 pages consisting of a brief history, technical data, painting instructions in English and German, a parts inventory, detailed exploded view assembly diagrams and a page of line drawings of side and overhead views. These are excellent directions! (a rarity in resin ship kits)
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 7 February 2006.
Portrays the ship in 1914.
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship in 1939.
FAIR. Resin hull and superstructure with white metal weapons, boats and other small items. Brass wire provided for masts. Represents a Hunt II class destroyer as built. The hull casting, including funnel and bridge, is excelent, very sharp and intricate. The white metal parts are not so good with the 20mm guns being too big. To improve the model, use WEM 'O' class photoetch to replace the 20mm's and multiple pom-poms and add railings and radar. With these changes can be easily built into a very good model. (GS)
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship in 1943.
GOOD. An all resin model representing this Town class destroyer on transfer to the RN in 1940. Like other B-Resina ships, the hull, much of the superstructure and the funnels are crisply cast in one piece. Weapons and boats are cast on spues while delicate items are moulded on a wafer. I used some these items but others would have been better constructed in PE. The one poor feature were the instructions, consisting of one side of badly photocopied A3 paper. However, with some references it makes into a very good model. (GS)
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship in 1942.
FAIR. Represents a Hunt I class destroyer with a 2pdr bow chaser. Same quality as HMS Badsworth. (GS)
OK. An all resin model. Represents a H class destroyer as built. The hull casting is nowhere near as good as the B-Resina Hunts with soft detail and funnels which are too flat. However, this is the only model of the A-I destroyers in this scale so is the only choice. (GS)
Portrays the ship in 1939.
Editor's Notes:Portrays the ship in 1916.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship in 1941.
GOOD.
This is a resin model with some brass rod included for the masts and yards. It is molded in a light yellow resin. The very large single piece hull incorporates a large part of the superstructure in the casting and is fairly well detailed with decently subtle planking. There is some problem with alignment of the superstructure parts to the that part that is pre cast into the deck and with the construction of the foremast. Considerable trimmingg and dry fitting is necessary to get the right alignment. The boat cranes should really have been done in photo etch as they are heavy. Ship's boats are OK. Stacks have their grills cast in and should be in a finer photo etch but the effect is still quite good. Anchor chains are cast into the deck. The kit is strikingly similar to the Airfix 1/600 Repulse, which was a good kit for the time as well. The model will build up into a good representation of the ship but really shows it's age compared to the new 1/700 offering from Tamiya kit # 31617. The detail on this kit cannot compare to the new Tamiya kit.
Directions are typical from B-Resina as is the packaging, nothing exceptional, but adequate for the level of kit presented.
(WJS), review dated 11 March 2008.
Editor's Notes:Portrays the ship in 1939.
For comparison, check out these kits:
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship in 1939.
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship 1939/40.
For comparison, check out these kits:
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: This is an all resin kit with brass rod stock included for masts and yards. Let me start off by noting that some controversy has arisen as to the shape of the hull and the shape and size of the dual purpose secondary battery. I do not have a detailed set of plans to compare the kit to nor am I a naval architect with a level of training capable of rendering such a judgment if I did have the plans. So before buying you might want to check this out yourself.
That being noted, the huge, one piece hull casting incorporates a very large part of the ship's superstructure. It is very detailed with lots of deck fittings and finely engraved deck planking. All other parts of the ship are cast with equally fine detail. Assembly, except for rigging, will be pretty basic and quick. All of the ship's weapons, while well detailed will need quite a bit of trimming of flash before use. The prominent ship's cranes will have to be cut out of their casting wafer with great care. These parts should have been done in PE as they are too heavy in resin. Main battery turrets are cast with their gun barrels and are cleanly done, no need to substitute brass barrels unless that is your preference.
This kit will build up into a large, impressive model of a unique ship.
Directions:: two double sided pages showing photos of the parts, numbering them and then indicating where they are located on the ship in exploded view diagrams and line drawings. Perfunctory painting instructions in English and German are included in the text. There is no rigging guide or sketch.
Packaging: somewhat cheesy cardboard box with a line drawing of the ship as the box art. All parts are bagged and then surrounded with foam peanuts to eliminate damage in shipping.
(WJS), review dated 8 February 2006.
Editor's Note:Portrays the ship 1946.
Yankee Modelworks was also apparently responsible for Midship Models.
Apparently, they sold the resin model business some time back, (i.e. before 2015) and at last word, Blue Ridge Models had their molds.
Yankee Modelworks was owned by John Sheridan.
Their last address was:
Yankee Modelworks
4000D Sardis Church Rd.
Monroe, NC 28110
Phone: (866) 537-0479
Their previous address was:
Yankee Modelworks
88 Hatch Street Suite 306
New Bedford, Massachusetts 02745
VERY GOOD. (based on in box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit that also comes with cast metal parts, photo etched brass detail parts and a decal sheet of Japanese flags and aircraft markings. The PE fret provided is relief etched for a greater 3-D effect and is extremely well done with an extensive selection of ships equipment and railings. The white metal (pewter) parts are well detailed but will require more clean up than normal. All resin parts are well cast and very detailed, this is especially true of the hull and deck. However, the one thing that keeps me from rating this kit as excellent is the excessive casting pours at the bottom of virtually every resin part that must be removed before the parts can be used. This is especially so on the two parts of the hull (split at the waterline) which have overpower of more than 7 mm (5/16") along the entire length of the hull pieces. This a LOT of resin to remove and promises to be a long, tedious, messy job. I don't build full hull so at least I will be able to throw the bottom piece in the trash!
Directions:: multi page text (in English) and exploded view drawings that illustrate the building process. General painting instructions are also given. Directions appear better than most from this maker. Additional items provided are rigging views of the ship's masts (which are assembled from the PE set provided), a brief ship's history and statistics and a parts inventory.
Packaging: the usual heavy cardboard box, well packed, with a photo of the completed model on the box top.
(WJS), review dated 18 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the BWN Akula, reviewed by Chuck Messer, above.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Alfa, above.
Editor's Notes: Re-issue of BWN Atlanta.This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued as:
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit that also comes with cast metal parts, photo etched brass detail parts and a decal sheet of flags and ship markings. The PE fret provided is well done with a selection of ships equipment and railings. The white metal (pewter) parts are well detailed but will require more clean up than normal. All resin parts are well cast and very detailed including the hull and deck. The creamy white resin used for this kit has a very slick feel to it, so be sure to prep the surface carefully before painting. The issue of over pour on the resin parts is one that has to be examined from this maker. This kit has almost none. In fact, in a departure from the normal method I have come to associate with this maker the small resin parts are cast on wafers rather than plugs. The hull parts (split at the waterline) were almost dead flat on the bottom as were most of the other parts not on the wafer. This is a huge difference from some of the other kits from this maker like the USS Massachusetts, YMW #35097 or the IJN Akizuki, YMW #35067. This is a nice kit that would make a good first time resin kit for the new builder.
Directions:: multi page text of generalized instructions for working with resin kits (in English) and an exploded view drawing that illustrate the building process. General painting instructions are also given, but nothing specific to this ship. Directions are similar to those found in Combrig kits, consisting chiefly of a single exploded view assembly diagram. Additionally a parts inventory is provided with the photo of the ship and brief statistics.
Packaging: the usual heavy cardboard box, well packed, with a photo of the completed model on the box top.
(WJS), review dated 18 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See Bill Swan's review under BWN Balch, above.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Bass, above.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Simon Bolivar, above.
Editor's Note: From what I can tell, this kit is a close relative of the YMW Tennessee, below, reviewed by Bill Swan. It portrays the ship in 1941. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Dallas, above.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the BWN Enterprise. Portrays the ship in 1944. See also notes under Yorktown Class.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Note: the kit that I purchased was marked as a Blue Water Navy kit and the directions also are bannered with the BWN logo. However, the stock number is exactly the same as the Yankee Modelworks stock number and the kit is now sold by YMW under their own label so I am reviewing it as a YMW product.
Kit parts: this is a resin kit that also comes with cast metal parts, photo etched brass detail parts and a decal sheet of Japanese flags, ship and aircraft markings. You will need some brass rod to supplement the fabrication of the masts. The PE fret provided is relief etched for a greater 3-D effect and is extremely well done with an extensive selection of ships equipment and railings. The white metal (pewter) parts are well detailed but will require a modest amount of clean up. All resin parts are well cast and very detailed, this is especially true of the hull and deck. Unlike the Akizuki YMW #35067, the resin over pour on the bottoms of the resin parts is small and easily managed, making preparation of the parts of this kit much easier. Both hull pieces (split at the waterline) have a small amount of resin over pour to sand off. I don't build full hull so at least I will be able to throw the bottom piece in the trash!
Directions:: multi page text (in English) and exploded view drawings that illustrate assembly. General painting instructions are also given. Directions are better than most from this maker. Additional items provided are rigging views of the ship's masts (which are assembled from the PE set provided), a brief ship's history and statistics and a parts inventory.
Packaging: the usual heavy cardboard box, well packed, but with no photo of the completed model on the box top.
(WJS), review dated 18 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the BWN Gearing, reviewed by Bill Swan, above.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Yorktown Class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit with resin, white metal and photo etch parts included. There is no metal or plastic rod included for the masts so you will have to provide your own to fabricate these parts. You will also need to provide your own anchor chain. The hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline for the option of full hull or waterline model (easy for me, that clunk you heard was the bottom going in the trash). Both hull halves have a very heavy block of resin overpour that must be sanded off before they can be used. These are really big hunks of resin so unless you are Superman you will need the help of some power tools to remove this excess resin.
The upper hull piece incorporates elements of the superstructure. It is nicely detailed and doesn't appear to have any incomplete or malformed elements. Portholes are molded in (thankfully) and the deck scribing is quite good. Unfortunately, my example suffered from quite a few bubbles and pin holes in the resin, especially along the waterline. There were some in the molded on gun shields as well. They are easy to repair with some putty or gap filling super glue.
The other resin parts are very nicely done with excellent detail and they are cleanly cast. They do, however, have heavy overpour on their bottoms or large pour plugs on their sides that have to be removed so don't put away those power tools after finishing the hull. The white metal parts are cleanly cast and loaded with detail. They will require very little cleanup (which is great 'cause there's lots of them).
The PE parts are fantastic. There are two sheets of PE included that contain everything you need to create a masterpiece. Other YMW and BWN kits that I have worked with share the same type of PE and once you have worked with it you will wonder where it's been all your life.
This is a very good kit and will produce a terrific model of a beautiful ship. The only things that keep it from being rated an excellent kit are the difficulties with removing the resin overpour/stubs and the directions.
Directions:: good line drawings and helpful photos but somewhat disorganized. No rigging diagram.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a picture of the completed model as the box art. All parts are securely wrapped and isolated from each other in the box to minimize damage.
(WJS), review dated 19 February 2006.
Editor's Note: See also notes under Northampton-class.
Editor's Notes: See notes under Atlanta-class.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Kilo, above.
EXCELLENT. (based on in box review)
Note: this kit represents the Kirishima around the time of her loss during the naval battles for Guadalcanal and as such is in her rebuilt battleship form. If you are looking for the original configuration of the ship as a battlecruiser this is NOT what you are looking for.
Kit Parts: this is a resin kit that also comes with cast metal parts, photo etched brass detail parts and a decal sheet of Japanese flags and aircraft markings. The PE frets provided are relief etched for a greater 3-D effect and are extremely well done with an extensive selection of ships equipment and railings. The white metal (pewter) parts are well detailed and they will require little flash removal. All resin parts are well cast and very detailed, this is especially true of the hull and deck. The creamy white resin used for this kit has a very slick feel to it, so be sure to prep the surface carefully before painting. The issue of over pour on the resin parts is one that has to be examined from this maker. This kit has almost none. The hull parts (split at the waterline) were almost dead flat on the bottom as were most of the other parts. This is a huge difference from some of the other kits from this maker like the USS Massachusetts, YMW #35097 or the IJN Akizuki, YMW #35067. This is a beautiful model that I would recommend to any modeler with some experience. For complex subjects like this I prefer to work with a quality resin kit over an injection molded kit, in many cases it is easier to work with and get a better result.
Directions:: multi page text (in English) and exploded view drawings that illustrate the building process. General painting instructions are also given. Directions appear better than most from this maker but I am not sure that the modeler wouldn't be prudent to have some good period photos or plans to complete this model. Additional items provided are rigging views of the ship's masts, a brief ship's history and statistics and a parts inventory.
Packaging: the usual heavy cardboard box, well packed, with a photo of the completed model on the box top.
(WJS), review dated 18 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See Bill Swan's review under BWN Louisville, above.
See also notes under Northampton-class.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: this is a multimedia kit that includes resin, white metal, photo etch and a decal sheet of USN markings. You will need anchor chain and some metal rod or tubing for part of the mast construction. In order to accommodate waterline and full hull enthusiasts the hull is cast in two parts divided at the waterline. (Crash, bang....that was the bottom going in the trash, I only do waterline). The upper part of the hull is cast up to the main deck. Details cast into the deck are very well done. My sample, however, had a number of incompletely cast fittings and pinholes around the waterline. These can be repaired with gap filling superglue. A bigger problem is the large amount of overpour on the hull bottom (mine ranged from a high of 9 mm at the bow to -1 mm of underpour at the stern). This is a massive amount of resin to remove as it spans almost the full width of the hull as well as most of its length. Superman or not you are going to need some serious power tools to get this off. The sides of the hull have a number of blemishes that will have to be sanded smooth as well. The resin superstructure parts are cleanly cast but like the YMW Houston kit suffer from hard to remove overpour on their bottoms (aren't you glad you bought stock in Dreml Tools, you did buy stock right?). Normally you would expect to find the lower superstructure incorporated in the hull casting for this type of ship but it was necessary to cast it separately to allow for differences in the ships of this class.
Both resin and white metal parts have good surface detail. The white metal parts in this kit will require more cleanup than other YMW kits I have seen. When it comes to the multiple PE sheets I cannot say enough good about YMW PE. They are simply superb. Everything you need for this ship is there including rails and the 20 mm battery. YMW PE is great to work with, almost folding itself as you take it off the fret.
Directions:: excellent directions enhanced by scale sized diagrams, photos and clear text. The only caveat I have is that the master directions are for USS South Dakota. A supplement is included for Massachusetts. You MUST lay these out side by side and step by step to avoid making errors in construction.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a picture of the completed model as the box art. All parts are securely wrapped and isolated from each other in the box to minimize damage.
I highly recommend the purchase of this kit but you must know beforehand that you will be in for some heavy duty resin removal.
(WJS), review dated 19 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: please see my review notes of YMW #35072, Tone as to directions, packaging and molding quality of the parts with the exceptions noted below. With regard to the PE set, this kit is also relief etched but not quite as extensive as that found in the Tone kit. The hull casting of this kit is of a higher quality with no bubbles or damaged deck detail that was found on the Tone kit. In addition this kit had no overpour on the bottom of the hull. This hull is less complex than the Tone kit but of a much higher quality.
My Tone kit may have been an anomaly. This Mogami kit is quite good and would be recommended for any modeler seeking to expand his skills with a multi-media kit.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1944.
Editor's Notes: Re-issue of BWN Northampton.This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued as:
Editor's Notes: See notes under Atlanta-class.
GOOD.
Note: this kit depicts Porter in her prewar configuration. There is an alternative YMW kit #35103 that depicts Porter in 1942.
Kit Parts: this kit, like many YMW kits offers the builder the option of a full hull or waterline build. Being a waterline kind of guy this is the last you will hear about anything below the waterline. Most parts are cast in resin but there are also white metal and photo etch parts. My kit did not include brass rod to fabricate the masts so you may need to have some on hand.
The hull is a two part casting divided at the waterline. Both pieces have a large chunk of resin overpour that must be removed before they can be joined together or in my case just the one piece, the upper hull, the other piece only required that I throw it away.
The upper hull casting incorporates some elements of the superstructure but no portholes, those you will have to drill yourself. Cast in details are good on all pieces but there were a few parts incompletely or roughly cast on my example. Several of the platforms were warped and or so hard to remove from their pour plugs or wafers that I threw them out and fabricated my own from plastic sheet stock. Although assembly is pretty straight forward the combination of resin and photo etch parts necessary to construct the bridge is a bit tricky so extra care must be taken and dry fitting must be done to make that work.
The PE parts for this kit are absolutely outstanding. They practically fold themselves once removed from the fret. They are the best I have ever worked with. The kit also includes a sheet of decals for Porter and other members of the class. Everything you need (except the rod for the masts) is included to complete this kit including the gorgeous railings.
This really is a very good kit with relatively minor difficulties to overcome. I would even go so far as to suggest it for the first time resin builder.
Directions:: here we have an issue. Apparently there was a problem in some of the kits with the production of the directions. mine were grossly incomplete, as in missing a number of important pages. I have been in contact with the new owner of YMW and the problem (a corruption in the stored computer files) has been corrected. So, beware, if you have one that's been sitting around a while check to see if the directions are complete, if not the manufacturer will correct it. Once I had a complete set I found them to be sufficient to create a good model of the ship.
Packaging: sturdy, well marked cardboard box with a picture of the completed model as the box art. All parts are securely wrapped and isolated from each other in the box to minimize damage.
(WJS), review dated 19 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1942.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN S-Boat, above.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Seawolf, above.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Skipjack, above.
Editor's Notes: This kit, or at least closely related variants of it, has been issued as:
Kingfisher / Catapult version.
GOOD. More bubbles along middle-sides of hull than I'd like. (AP)
Editor's Note: See also Tom Dougherty's review under BWN Sturgeon, above.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit is a retooled version of the old Classic Warships Tennessee, CW # 036. Please see my review of the Classic Warships #075 for contrast to this review.
Kit Parts: this is a resin model with cast white metal parts, a decal sheet with extra numbers and photo etched detail parts included. The photo etch is relief etched for a 3-D effect and is very complete. There is, however, no brass rod or tubing included to fabricate the yards, etc., so the modeler must supply his own. You will also need to provide your own anchor chain as well. Let me begin by saying that this is a very nice kit. I don't model full hull ships so I really don't pay attention to how well the bottom piece fits the upper hull, all I can say is that both pieces were dead flat with no over pour to sand off. The upper hull was cast up to the forecastle. Superstructure parts are all cast separately in order to be able to reflect differences between this kit and the California also made by Yankee Modelworks at this time. My example had no bubbles, malformations or miscasts. There was very little flash on the resin parts. Hull and deck detail was excellent with finely engraved planking lines where appropriate. There is some flash on the metal parts that will have to be dealt with but not a huge amount. Gun barrels are included in the white metal castings which overall are pretty well cast with good surface detail. I am not, however crazy about the main battery barrels being cast in this way. The modeler would be well advised to seek out brass or aluminum turned barrels on the after market. One further thing to note about the resin cast pieces is the quality and detail of the ship's boats. They are gorgeous little models in themselves.
The newer models (IJN Kirishima #35080, IJN Furutaka #35068 and USS Bagley #35010) that I have purchased from this maker (YMW), (late 2006-2007) seem to have mastered the problem of over pour that was found in some of their other product like or the IJN Akizuki, YMW #35067. This is a great step forward and I hope it continues.
Directions:: multi page text (in English) and exploded view drawings that illustrate assembly. Painting instructions are also given for the somewhat controversial blue color scheme. Vertical surfaces are to be painted in 5-N (mistyped as S-N in the text), a dark, dark blue versus the more traditional view that the ship was painted in 5-D, a dark purple gray that was almost a faded black. Directions are better than most from this maker, except that there are no rigging illustrations or directions. Also provided in the directions are ship's statistics and a parts inventory.
Packaging: the usual heavy cardboard box, well packed, with photo of the completed model on the box top.
(WJS), review dated 18 March 2008.
Editor's Note: Portrays the ship in 1941.
Editor's Note: See review under BWN Thresher, above.
GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this is a late war fit with lots of AAA.
Kit Parts: This is a multi-media kit. Parts are cast in yellow resin, white metal and photo etched brass. The hull is cast in two pieces divided at the waterline. The upper hull is a gorgeous casting with lots of molded in detail. The vents, however, have bubbles in them requiring repair or replacement. YMW has provided white metal castings to replace any vents that are miscast or broken. I would have preferred separate castings without the on deck parts as this just makes it more difficult to paint and fix. This mars what would otherwise be a truly beautiful casting. There is one other thing that keeps this kit from getting an excellent rating: overpour on the bottom of the upper hull is just awful (heavy and thick) and will require a sanding belt to get off. The other resin parts while nicely detailed have a lot of heavy pour plugs to sand off. There will be a lot of resin dust in your future. (I suggest that you get a baking dish, fill with about .5 inch of water and wet sand the pour plugs off to minimize the dust) The white metal parts are decent but needy, keep your files sharp. The aircraft are provided in resin and should best be thrown away. There are lots of better replacement injection ones around now so there is no reason to sweat these off the pour plugs. Another thing to replace are the main battery gun barrels with turned brass ones. White metal barrels just can’t compare.
The outstanding part of this kit is the Photo Etched brass. It is relief etched and positively gorgeous. There are four frets of the most beautifully done photo etch you are likely to find anywhere in the hobby world. The set is simply stunning. Everything you need is on these frets.
Directions: Very good to excellent black and white illustrations that are clear and unambiguous. These are on the high end for a resin kit.
Packaging: standard YMW heavy white cardboard box with a small black and white illustration of the actual ship on the top. Hull pieces bubble wrapped, everything else bagged in plastic and surrounded with foam peanuts.
A very good kit for the modeler wishing to branch out into resin/multi-media kits. I do not believe the overpour on my kit to be typical of other examples so check your kit carefully.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
GOOD. The USS Tullibee (SSN-597) (kit YKM 35013) was an attempt at building a small, silent hunter-killer, optimized to hunt other submarines. Tullibee pioneered many new concepts, including giving the bow over entirely to a large passive sonar sphere, and having the torpedo tubes angle out from amidships. Tullibee's S2C reactor of only 2500 SHP was used solely to drive turbogenerators to produce electricity, and Tullibee's propeller was driven by an electric motor, rather than by steam turbines as in other nuclear submarines. The electric drive made Tullibee very quiet (albeit somewhat slow). The submarine was small, and sported a rather distinctive deck casing abaft the sail, which widened toward the rear. She sported various versions of the PUFFs sonar system, with prominent fins on her upper deck to house the PUFFs hydrophones.
The mixed media (resin, white metal & brass photoetch) YKM model itself captures these unique features of Tullibee. The resin hull itself is small, and comes with the sail and deck casing cast onto the hull. The area forward of the sail has a flat region, with the distinctive emergency buoy cast into it. As with many resin kits, the hull has a casting plug along the keel, which must be cut off and sanded smooth. One has to carefully remove the resin sternplanes and rudders from their large resin casting plugs. These parts are most often cast in white metal, but I believe the small size of these parts on this model precluded using metal casting. When installing the control surfaces on the hull, it is important to locate these carefully to form a straight cross pattern with the pieces 90 degrees apart and the rudders vertical and the planes horizontal. I recommend reinforcing these parts with thin brass wire when attaching them. The kit comes with several different types of PUFFs sonar fins, and one will need to find some pictures of Tullibee in the time period desired to model the correct PUFFs outfitting. The same is true of the paint job. Initially Tullibee had the red from halfway down the hull and black from halfway up, with her vertical surfaces (side of the sail and side of the deck casing) done in medium gray. At that point, she also sported the shorter PUFFs fins. Later, in all black above the waterline, Tullibee had much larger PUFFs fins. The kit also comes with a set of decals specific for the 597 boat.
(TD) Review dated 31 January 2006.
Editor's Note: New kit, circa 2005. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a re-issue of the old Gulfstream Type VIIc kit, reviewed by Tim Reynaga. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Apparently, this is a re-issue of the old BWN Type XXI, reviewed by Tom Dougherty. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Re-issue of the BWN Aaron Ward, reviewed by Bill Swan, above.
Editor's Note: From what I can tell, this kit is a relative of the YMW Tennessee, above, reviewed by Bill Swan. It portrays the ship in 1941. (DRW)
VERY GOOD/EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit represents Wichita in pre-war (for the US anyway) and early war fit and has a varied camouflage option list that runs from standard navy pre-war gray through MS-1, MS-12, MS-12 Mod. and MS-22. This being a one ship class it is unlikely to be molded in injection plastic anytime soon.
Kit parts: This is a resin kit with white metal, brass rod, photo etch, a clear plastic sprue for aircraft and a decal set for both ship and aircraft. This kit is for the most part crisply molded with good surface detail for the parts. The upper hull is one piece up to the main deck (the lower hull went in the garbage, I don’t do full hull). All superstructure parts are added later. Planking is very finely scribed in the continuous line fashion. I could not detect any butt ends in the tiny scribing. Deck detail is very good. Other resin parts have good surface detail but quite a number of them have a thin flash of resin around them that will require careful sanding to remove. The white metal parts are quite clean and crisp with very little cleanup needed. I do recommend some anchor chain and some after market main battery brass barrels. The 5 inchers are done in resin as one piece with the turret and are quite crisp, but on a model this size the brass for the 5 inch guns would also look great. The PE set used is shared with the Brooklyn and Helena kits but contains everything you will need to complete the model.
Directions: Very good black and white directions with painting instructions and illustrations. Steps are illustrated with line drawings that are clear. Better than the usual resin stuff but not up to WEM or YSM standards.
Packaging: standard YMW heavy white cardboard box with a small black and white illustration of the actual ship on the top. Hull pieces bubble wrapped, everything else bagged in plastic and surrounded with foam peanuts. In spite of all that my kit had damage to deck edges and bollards. The damage was not critical just annoying.
This is a very good kit for the modeler wishing to try out his skills in a mixed media environment. The parts are high quality and feature good detail. Go over the top and get the brass barrels for a great model.
(WJS), review dated 19 September 2011.
Editor's Notes: The Enterprise kit is a re-issue of BWN Enterprise. Presumably, the Yorktown and Hornet are variants of it, but I'd think that they'd have to be pretty substantially different. The Enterprise kit portrays the ship in 1944, and by that time she had the large hull bulges that her sisters never got. (DRW)
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin parts with extensive photo-etch fret consisting of ladders, gratings, decks, grills, grates, ships boats equipment, deck equipment, weapons, anchor chain, anchors, starfish and railings. Exquisite 3-D etching on the PE fret goes with the cleanly molded flash free light tan resin parts. The hull is one piece with most of the superstructure incorporated. Beautifully molded hull is crammed with detail and includes locator points for additions to the superstructure and deck aiding in assembly.
Directions:: stunningly detailed step by step instructions with profuse illustration and exploded views clearly demonstrating every aspect of assembly of this kit. This level of assistance to the builder is rare. The instructions are actually bound into a little book with fold out pages and color plates! Paint scheme is illustrated in the color plate and calls out the colors in Humbrol paints. All in all this is truly an extraordinary performance.
Packaging: hull wrapped in bubble sleeve, groups of small parts are wrapped in separate baggies and then each baggie is placed in one larger one. The bound, rolled up instruction manual helps to hold all the parts securely in the heavy duty cardboard box.
Truly outstanding kit but the great many tiny parts will be very hard to remove and build with so first timers need not apply, you will need experience to build this gorgeous vessel.
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: This ship model comes from the manufacturer as a full hull model but my review disregards the lower hull as I had the lower hull cut off the model before I even saw it, so full hull modelers, I have nothing to say about below the waterline.
Although hard to realize today this ship was probably one of the most famous USN vessels of her time (after the unfortunate Maine). It is a pleasure to see a quality kit in 1/350.
Kit Parts: This is a resin model that includes some plastic rod and two sheets of photo etched brass detail parts. The ship is cast in light gray resin. The one piece hull has most of the superstructure cast into it. Deck detail is excellent with fine lines for the deck planking (no ends are cast, the lines are continuous). The armored doors of the secondary battery are cast closed so that only the barrels can be added, no interior detail is available, opening them up will not be easy if you want that effect. Portholes are a little shallow and soft and will require a bit of sharpening up with a drill bit or Dreml burr. There are no pinholes, sinkholes, voids, dropouts, bubbles, miscasts or malformed parts among any of the resin castings. Main battery gun barrels are cast in resin with hollowed out ends to simulate a gun tube. Although I would prefer turned brass or aluminum such additions are not necessary as they are in some resin kits. There is minor flash on some of the smaller resin parts but it is easily removed. Detail on the resin parts ranges from good to excellent and such castings as the ships boats are supplemented by the photo etch set. The photo etch frets are extremely delicate and are of the newer 3D type. The parts included consist of boat thwarts, oars, rudders, ladders, hatches, doors, davits, platforms, braces, yards/foot ropes, and several styles of railings.
This is a beautifully done kit but will be a challenging build not for the first timer. One of the more difficult parts will be assembling, bending and aligning the boat deck braces from the delicate PE parts that make them up. This is a multistep process with more than just a few PE parts.
Directions:: fantastically detailed, bound booklet of drawings and explanatory text, in English, of every single step of the assembly process. There are line drawings and color plates of the ship in the various paint schemes that she wore while in service. The rigging depictions I don't believe will be of much help so the serious modeler would be well advised to seek out detailed rigging plans elsewhere.
Packaging: sturdy white, heavy cardboard box with a color reproduction of a painting or drawing of the ship on the top as box art. Hull is braced with wooden sticks and wrapped in bubble wrap. Other parts are in small plastic bags. Additional bubble wrap is used to isolate the parts from movement.
(WJS), review dated 13 March 2008.
EXCELLENT. (based on in-box review)
Kit Parts: resin parts with extensive photo-etch fret consisting of ladders, gratings, decks, grills, grates, ships boats equipment, deck equipment, weapons, anchor chain and railings. Exquisite 3-D etching on the PE fret goes with the cleanly molded flash free light green resin parts. The hull is one piece with most of the superstructure incorporated. Beautifully molded hull is crammed with detail and includes locator points for additions to the superstructure and deck aiding in assembly.
Directions:: stunningly detailed step by step instructions with profuse illustrations and exploded views clearly demonstrating every aspect of assembly of this kit. This level of assistance to the builder is rare. The instructions are actually bound into a little book with fold out pages and color plates! Alternative paint schemes are illustrated in the color plates. All in all this is truly an extraordinary performance.
Packaging: hull wrapped in bubble sleeve, groups of small parts are wrapped in separate baggies and then each baggie is placed in one larger one. The bound, rolled up instruction manual helps to hold all the parts securely in the heavy duty cardboard box.
Outstanding kit but not for the newby, many tiny parts require experience.
(WJS), review dated 2 February 2006.
This kit has been reissued by:
Editor's Note: See Ticonderoga Class.
Editor's Note: See Sovremenny-class, below.
Editor's Note: See Luda-class, below.
Editor's Note: This kit appears to be the same as the Luda-class, below. The box photo shows an old Luda class. This is incorrect, for DDG-168 is a new Luhai-class DDG. (DRW)
FAIR. The Ding Yuan is a motorized ship kit manufactured by the Chinese company Zhengdefu. In general the molded parts are thicker than I would like, the port holes are undistinguished, deck planking is way out of scale, the ladders provided with the kit should be scrapped, there are holes in the deck for the motor switch and attaching hardware, the molded anchors and anchor chains are terrible, and the mounting points (for the masts, vents and stacks) are formed by rather large circles molded on the deck. These problems are, however, all rather easy to fix using basic modeling techniques. For my kit, I have replaced the anchors and chain with bits from the spares box, opened up some port holes, patched the unwanted holes and spent some time filing down the railings and mast assemblies. Also replaced were the solid railings in the upper works and those horrible ladders. 1:350 PE seems to look all right. Hull length is about 12 inches.
Historical accuracy is difficult to find for pre 1900s ships, therefore, I suggest that this kit be considered as "representative" of a class of ships from the Sino-Japanese War and not as any particular ship. I would not recommend this kit for the serious builder since the inaccuracies would generate a flood of frustration but for the casual builder interested in early period warships, this kit should provided a very nice experience and a rather unique piece on the display shelf. (SU)
Editor's Note: Same as Zhenyuan. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Sovremenny-class, below.
Editor's Note: See Luhu-class, below.
Editor's Note: See Luda-class, below.
Same as Russian Osa class,, below.
FAIR. Appears to be slightly larger than the Osa, aside from that nothing is given about its PLAN designation. The actual thing is listed as being 65.4 meters long. Weapons said to include "Eagle-8" anti-ship missiles and carries a crew of 40. Also can be motorized. Detail is sparse and heavy but it has potential.(ML)
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
This kit has been reissued by
Kitech's Missouri has been reviewed by Tim Reynaga.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Note: See Luda-class, above.
Editor's Note: See Luda-class, below.
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Notes: This kit has apparently been issued as:
For comparison, also see
Editor's Note: See Ticonderoga Class.
Editor's Note: See Luda-class, above. May have modernized C801 missiles. (DRW)
Editor's Note: See Iowa-class, above.
Editor's Note:See Udaloy-class, below.
Editor's Note: See Luhu-class, above.
FAIR - This is the same mold as Harbin, except for a separate sprue which adds the unique Qingdao funnel. Sold as a motorized kit, there is a hole cut into the helicopter deck for the motor switch. The superstructure is attached to the deck by flexible snaps, so that the entire section can be removed to access the batteries. There is a moderate amount of flash, and primitive or non-existant guides for bi-laterally molded pieces and the deck/hull. You will have to do some filling around the sonar bulb and the sonar buoy deck. The decal sheet includes a hull number for only one side of the ship. Helo deck markings were included but the ship ID number for the helo deck were not. That said, there is a good amount of surface detail, although a bit thick. If you are willing to make your own railings and ladders (helo deck nets are included) and add a few missing details (hauser reels/CCTV cameras/storage boxes) you can come up with an impressive model, considering the scarcity of modern naval subject matter in such a large scale. (DH)
Editor's Note: See Udaloy-class, above.
Perfect size to make a diorama with any of Revell's 1/542 scale carriers!!!!! (RDF)
Editor's Note: This kit has been issued as:
This kit has been reissued by:
Perfect size to make a diorama with any of Revell's 1/542 scale carriers!!!!! (RDF)
Editor's Notes: 30 cm box scale.
This kit has been reissued by:
Perfect size to make a diorama with any of Revell's 1/542 scale carriers!!!!! How awesome is that! (RDF)
Editor's Notes: 30 cm box scale. This kit has apparently been issued as:
This kit has been reissued at by:
Editor's Note: See Jiang Wei I class. (DRW)
Editor's Note: Mike reviewed the Panteleyev kit. (DRW)
GOOD. Again a box scale kit - model #DF040 - 30 cm long. This is actually pretty nice, too, and compares very favorably to the Skywave Udaloy kits. Even the parts numbering and assembly is very much like the Skywave models. Coincidence? Probably not.
Also sold as Admiral Vinogradov. The real ship is listed as being 164 meters in length, so scale must be roughly between 1/500-1/600 or so. Unlike the missile boats, this one has a flat-bottomed hull like the old Revell kits, so it would look best if waterlined. Optional motorized parts should be trashed. (ML)
Editor's Note:Hmm. 1/545 scale..... an escort for that awful Lindberg Kiev? (DRW)
Perfect size to make a diorama with any of Revell's 1/542 scale carriers!!!!! How awesome is that! (RDF)
Editor's Notes: 30 cm box scale. This kit has apparently been issued as:
It has been re-issued by:
Editor's Note: Updated version of Type 021, with newer C801 missiles.
Editor's Note:See Udaloy-class, above.
This is a Chinese-made version of the Soviet Osa class from the 60s and 70s, now largely obsolete. I haven't yet tried to determine the scale; it's a bit larger than the 1/150 Poseidon model, though not nearly as finely detailed. Still, with a little work this could turn into an impressive model. Comes with optional motor (forget it!) and plastic display stand. (ML)
Editor's Note: I'm pretty sure that kit ZDF027 is supposed to be a Russian Osa II, not a Chinese Type 021, though the two are closely related. (DRW)
FAIR. The model was, in fact, originally issued as a toy, and it shows. (ML)
Editor's Note: Same as Ding Yuan. (DRW)
OK. I had these kits home before I realized their prototypes were the famous "Ellswick Cruisers" produced by Armstrong in the 1880's and sold to small navies around the world. With minor detail changes they could represent ships of several nations.
These kits are really both the same with different labelling and decals. I made some minor changes between them to differentiate them.
The kit is very reminescent of Lindberg kits. They can be built as static models or powered. I built mine as display models with added detail.
The deck has longitudinal scribing for planking, but no transverse scribing. I added this in a logical pattern. The portholes in the hull on the prototype ships had pronounced rings surrounding them. I cut thin discs from styrene tubing and attached these to the hull to represent this feature. The prototypes used a twin-screw drive.
Shafts and screws are provided for this in the kit, but the kit is made to be driven from a centrally-located central shaft. I filled the hole for this and relocated the single rudder farther forward. I also covered the rudder with self-adhesive copper strips.
The styrene tubing, cut a little thicker, was used for life rings. Anchor chains were added and rigging was fashioned from wire. The ship's boats were detailed, adding vertical steam boilers to two of them on one of the ships. Banners were cut from gold and red satin and added fopr a colorful touch.
I would like to get a couple more of these kits to model the Spanish Navy cruisers Isla de Luzon and Isla de Cuba.
(LDF), review dated 23 February 2006.
FAIR. The Zhong Shan is a 1:180 "motorized" kit made by the Chinese company Zhengdefu. The plastic molding is reasonable in detail but it is certainly not as crisp and clean as found in the better Japanese, US or European products. It definitely needs some filing to sharpen up the details, some PE rails and ladders, and an expert weathering job. Other than that, it builds into a decent looking kit. I would not recommend buying 200 scale rails & ladders just for this kit, but if you have some other, more worthy, application for the PE and have some left over, use it on a Zhong Shan. The hull measures out to about 14 inches. Periodically this kit appears on e-Bay accompanied by a picture of the finished kit. Although the picture is small you can see that the color scheme used is a basic pre war flat white with heavy weathering. It is probably because of the picture, and also because the seller does not advertise the kit as being a Zhengdefu, that the kits tend to be over bid. (SU)
Editor's Note: For comparison, check out the following:
Editor's Note: See Luda-class, above. Apparently, this is the helo-equipped version of the Luda class.
Editor's Note: See Luda-class, above.
Their address is:
Zvezda
141730 Russia, Moscow Region, Lobnya
Promyshlennaya Str. 2
Their website: http://zvezda.org.ru
The site is in Russian; there is also an English site.
| Brigantine | Crusader's Ship | Dreadnought | Greek Triera | Hansa Kogg | K-19 (Hotel class) | Kitty Hawk | Kniaz Suvorov |
| Kursk | Medieval Lifeboat | Oriol | Pourquoi-Pas | Roman Trireme | Roman Emperor's Ship | Sirius | Varyag |
FAIR.
This kit, the Heller English Brigantine # L-955, Occident #L-960 and the Pourquoi-Pas? #L-950 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them "typical" vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a "typical" English Brigantine rigged ship, most likely of the early 19th century. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built mine (the Heller kit of the English Brigantine) ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship's hull just below the cap railing for “alternate” parts for each kit. In the case of the Brigantine this is just a section of hull with scuppers. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it’s nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can’t see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
VERY GOOD. (based on in-box review)
Note: this kit is quite a sensational development for fans of the dreadnought type battleship, the very first ship of the type has been produced in a mass market, injection molded plastic kit. It is something I never thought I would ever see in plastic. Prior to this the only large scale kits of Dreadnought available were in paper or resin. Added to the equation is the price. Most kits of this size and type are priced much higher than this: more on that later.
Kit Parts: as noted above this is an injection molded plastic model. All parts, except for a small sprue of clear plastic for windows of various types, are molded in light gray, slightly soft and slippery plastic. A small decal sheet with the ship’s name and paper flags are also included, as is a somewhat funky display base that looks like rocks into which the full hull guys can attach the ship with a couple of plug like parts. In general all parts are crisply molded with no flash and good surface detail. No photo etch parts are included.
The hull is molded in two pieces and a groove is incised on the inside of the two hull halves so that you can waterline the model. However, no waterline plate is provided. It is slightly over scale in length but not enough to really matter. Detail above the waterline is good. Portholes are not through the hull or through the superstructure bulkheads either which presents the builder the option of drilling them through and filling with something clear or using a different treatment to simulate glass. Unfortunately the little porthole eyebrows (can’t remember the right term, getting old) are not molded on as found in other new kits, so this will be an item for the after market folks. Attachment points are provided for the anti-torpedo net booms but no netting shelf or anything to simulate the netting is provided. The porthole pattern and above waterline detail would seem to comport pretty well with the drawings found in the Anatomy of The Ship series book Dreadnought (AOSD) except for a couple of openings forward of the anchors. I only do waterline so I don’t comment on below the waterline stuff, sorry about that.
The main deck is a one piece casting with lots of molded in detail. No headaches here with nasty seams and joints. After looking at the AOSD deck drawings again I would say that a credible effort has been made to include as many deck details as possible including the various hatches for coaling. There are no open deck access points with stairways, etc and the larger covers are a bit blocky but otherwise seem to match the drawings fairly well. Planking detail is well rendered with engraved lines that include butt ends to the planks in an appropriate pattern. Breakwaters are molded in and tend to be a bit heavy, these would have been better to have been molded separately.
The rest of the superstructure parts appear to be on a par with other recent releases. Masts and spars are molded as one piece except for the tripod legs but the modeler who rigs his ships will most likely discard them in favor of brass or steel rod constructions for strength. Some detail is lacking on superstructure parts that is typically provided by photo etch and as such was probably intentional by Zvevda, such as the funnel stay bands and other such items that can’t really be well done with plastic. I expect that photo etch sets will come out of the woodwork for this kit from third party developers. There is already a real wood deck out for it (and in my stash!). Main battery turrets are nicely done missing only the ribbed pattern on their tops. The gun barrels, however, are marred by prominent mold seams running down the middle. I have no doubt brass ones will be forthcoming soon and should be purchased for this kit. The quick firing guns are little plastic jewels. They look exactly like the drawings in the AOSD book. The ship’s boats are nicely rendered as well. Detail fanatics will want to add more but what is provided is well done.
Directions: excellent multi page black and white exploded line drawings that appear to very unambiguous. A parts list with drawings of the included sprues constitutes the last page. Painting instructions are called out in each step and reference Model Master Paints. Choice of colors used is subject to research on your part, I never trust kit instructions. A canned history is included in Russian and English other notes are in the usual European Rosetta Stone fashion.
Packaging: very heavy top opening, flapped cardboard box with colorful artwork on the top of the ship firing a broadside. Sides include the usual ads for other company products, the usual Euro zone warnings and notices and a list of paints needed. The back of the box contains photos of a horribly executed build up of the model or a prototype of it. Anyone judging the contents by these photos would throw up their hands in disgust. The kit is much nicer than those photos would suggest. All parts are bagged in plastic to keep from getting plastic rash including the hull pieces. Unless intentionally abused there is little chance of breakage in shipping and storage.
I would highly recommend this kit to just about any level kit builder. It would appear to have been designed to be a very good basic kit at a cheap price that could also be suitable for master modelers to add exceptional detail to. As noted before I believe there will be lots of detail available for this kit from third party developers that will satisfy even the most demanding modelers. The basic kit itself will build into a satisfying model for the modeler who doesn’t want to go to the trouble and expense of further detailing.
(WJS), review dated 12 September 2011.
Editor's Note: NATO code-name "Hotel" Mold is circa 2005. (DRW)
GOOD. The Russian company Zvedzda ("Star") has released a polystyrene 1/350 scale kit of the Russian "Hotel" SSBN (kit #9025). The Hotel class was the USSR's first attempt at a nuclear powered ballistic submarine. The trials and tribulations of the first boat in that class were detailed in the book and movie "K-19: The Widowmaker". The Hotel class shared the not terribly reliable VM-A dual reactor plant with the November SSN and Echo SSGN contemporaries. Zvezda's kit is a pretty straightforward build, with only 33 parts. All the parts are molded in black, with the exception of a clear, green display stand. Detail appears to be reasonable overall; the hull has both limber holes as well as bottom ballast tank grates (a plus as many kits, even resin kits, omit the ballast vents!). There is some detail on the deck (hatches, etc.) but I have been unable to find good photos to confirm the accuracy. The sail has reasonable detailing, and has the unique "forward leaning" leading edge that is characteristic of this class. A set of masts are provided. One detail that I am not altogether certain about is the missile hatches on top of the sail. The three hatches have two recessed "notches" separating the hatches. I have seen one fuzzy picture and a diagram that indicates that this might be correct; however on the other hand I have several NATO photos of Hotels on the surface and the hatches are distinctly different in configuration. This may reflect the differences in the original D-2 launching system, which required the submarine to surface to launch the SS-N-4 missile. The Hotels were later refitted with the D-4 system and the longer range SS-N-5, which could be fired while submerged. The kit comes with two 6 bladed propellers, which match a drydock photo I have of a Hotel. The rudder, which is not a separate piece but instead scribed as lines has a length that is a bit shorter than the drawing I have. One very interesting aspect of the kit is that the decals include the characteristic silver sonar windows for the bow and the upper deck sonar dome. There is also a decal for the deadlights on the sail. The instructions are in Russian, with an English translation. Overall, this is a very decent kit, and very inexpensive in the $15-18 range. The only show in town when it comes to models of this class of submarines.
(TD) Review dated 31 January 2006.
GOOD. Zvezda has produced still another new 1:350 scale nuclear submarine kit. The subject this time is the famous (and infamous) Project 658 Hotel class SSBN K-19, a.k.a. "Hiroshima", a.k.a. "The Widowmaker". Unlike their previous release, the K-141 KURSK, there is no option for open missile hatches, or an open bridge cockpit. If you want to show the missile hatches open in the sail, you've got a little cutting and scratchbuilding to do. You do have the option of showing the various sail masts raised or retracted, but if you want to show some or all retracted, you'd need to fill in the holes.
The model's proportions and shape seem accurate, although I wasn't able to find any drydock photos to tell for sure. I was able to check out photos of a model of a November class boat that was supposed to be accurate, and it seems that at least the stern is correct, since the Hotel class was derived from the Novembers. The hull is in two horizontal halves with the main deck a separate piece. The detail on the deck is crisp and looks accurate, but the hull has the same fine, sandy texture that the KURSK had, which can obscure the otherwise fine detail. For example, the torpedo tube doors on the port side are clear, but the starboard doors had to be lightly re-etched with an exacto knife. The sail is nicely done, the detail finely etched and sharp. The seam between the top piece and the sail needs some careful sanding.
I also found the sonar dome on top of the bow to be a bit too small, so I made one out of scrap styrene.
Now for one of the best parts: The sonar windows are all decals. That means that molding problems won't erase them. One unique feature of these decals is the raised detail, the grid pattern from the supporting frame under the metallic rubber covering over the sonar. When I applied these decals, I decided to dispense with any setting solutions as I didn't want to risk ruining the raised detail. I think this is the first time I've seen this in a decal. The decals adhere just fine.
The painting instructions suggested gunship gray above the water line and insignia red below. I decided to go with Polyscale acrylic Scale Black overall, since I think the red undersides were done much later.
Overall, a well-done kit of the most famous of the Soviet navy's subs (thanks to the movie), K-19.
(CM), review dated 21 February 2006.
Editor's Note: This could be a re-issue of the Italeri Kitty Hawk. (DRW)
GOOD. (based on in-box review) My local hobby store had one of these open, and they were kind enough to let me look into the box. They also told me that apparently, this is the never-issued ICM Suvorov kit.
The hull looks pretty nice. It is a two piece hull, split along the keel. The molding looked a little rough in places, but nothing that couldn't be easily cleaned up. The deck planking looked a bit crude. The level of detail was quite nice, though. I didn't have my references with me, so I can't judge its accuracy. Still, it's a "buildable" model of a highly unusual subject.(DRW), review dated 25 February 2006.
Editor's Note: NATO code-name "Oscar II", Russian code-name "Anteiy" (DRW)
GOOD. I've built several 1:350 scale nuclear submarine kits, both US and Russian. One sub I've long wanted to build is the Project 949A OSCAR Class submarine. Along came Zvezda, which produced an injection molded kit, of the K-141 KURSK. At last, a model of the sub that US Navy nicknamed "Mongo", and at a reasonable price. What the kit includes are parts to show the missile tubes open or closed, with the individual hatches molded as one unit on each side. The modeler can decide to show all hatches opened or they can separate the hatches with a little scoring, and show them as they would probably be during a real launch. The sail has the option of showing the various masts raised or retracted, with hatch covers for the mast apertures. The kit includes clear parts for the window in the front of the sail, and the windshield/splash guard for the open bridge.
The shape seems accurate and the detail is crisp on the upper hull half, but the lower hull half has a rough, sandy texture, which is also evident on the bow part of the upper half. This nearly obscures the torpedo tubes and sonar window. I've decided to etch the lines deeper and wet-sand the rough areas, being careful to re-scribe the lines from time to time as I go. For the paint job, I've decided to go with the more recent Russian navy color scheme of black upper half with hull red bottom.
My research has shown that the OSCAR Class sub's lower rudder is a twin unit, not the single unit shown in the Zvezda kit. They also have a different profile. The needed modification is pretty simple, removing the base for the lower rudder with the mini-dremel and scratching new rudders from sheet styrene. This is an unusual configuration for a submarine, but then the Russian naval architects are famous for out-of-the-ordinary design features. The kit also includes four sea water scoops on the sides of the hull. They seem a bit thin in cross-section, so I've built them up with layers of sheet styrene.
Over all, a very nice kit, with some texture problems and a couple minor fixes needed to create a very impressive-looking model of one of the most powerful and menacing warships in the world.
No wonder they call it "Mongo". (CM), review dated 19 January 2004.
EXCELLENT. Zvezda seems to have taken a bit of a walk on the wild side with this one. Apparently they intended it as a companion piece for their Crusader's Ship and Hansa Kogg kits, but I wonder how many modelers they really thought would be interested in doing a Medieval life boat? Still, this is a beautiful little kit. Cleanly molded in brown polystyrene, the 23 parts assemble quickly into a little gem less than 10cm long. Construction is exceedingly simple with the hull, thwarts, and complex-looking deck grating all built up from a mere four parts. Planking is evident but discreet, with a subtle simulated wood grain texture throughout. The boat can be built with the oars and mast either deployed or stowed. I built mine deployed as it would have been a shame to cover up those nicely rendered thwarts and floor gratings inside the boat. The eight oars are delicately done, even having tiny handles on the ends. I especially liked the extras for the interior including a tiny hand bailer, boat hook, and a wonderfully delicate water cask. Unusually for a plastic kit, the instructions provide sufficient information to properly rig the vessel, even to the point of diagraming a square knot and how to secure lines to a cleat! I can't speak to accuracy as I could not find any references for it, but the finished model looks convincing. Offbeat subject choice notwithstanding, Zvezda's little Medieval life boat is definitely a winner.
(TR) Review dated 21 March 2007.
EXCELLENT. Zvezda has marketed this kit as the Kursk kit with different decals.
This kit sets a high standard for injection-molded kits in my opinion. The surface details were crisp, part fit was excellent even on the large hull halves, and no warpage ir sinkholes were found. Kit molded in high quality black styrene with clear parts sprue for sail windows and windshield. Missle tube doors can be modeled all open or all closed, or individual doors can be separated to model open or closed. Well-printed, thin decals.
(LDF), review dated 26 February 2006.
Editor's Note: Apparently a re-issue of the Heller kit. (DRW)
FAIR.
This kit, the Heller English Brigantine #L-955, Occident #L-960 and the Pourquoi-Pas? #L-950 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them "typical" vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a specially built steam screw assisted polar exploration sailing ship probably unknown outside of France. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built the Heller English Brigantine (the remarks are pertinent to this kit as well) ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I'm a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship's hull just below the cap railing for "alternate" parts for each kit. In the case of the Pourquoi-Pas? this is just a section of hull with what looks like gunports. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
FAIR.
This kit, the Heller English Brigantine # L-955, Occident #L-960 and the Pourquoi-Pas? #L-950 are all related as are the Zvezda reissues Brigantine # 9011, Sirius (Occident) # 9013 and Pourquoi-Pas? # 9012. The question mark is supposed to be in the name of Pourquoi-Pas? because the name is equivalent to the English phrase "Why Not?".
How are they related? They all share the same hull, main deck pieces and a host of other parts including ships boats, plastic deadeyes, masts, yards, etc. Additional parts are included in each kit to differentiate them from one another. If I had to take a guess as to which one most closely resembles the real ship it would have to be the Pourquoi-Pas?, the others being for the most part fabrications. The modeler should consider them "typical" vessels of their type.
If you are a sailing ship enthusiast with a passion for accuracy stop, go no further, keep your wallet in your pocket. These ships are not for you (well maybe, you could tease out an accurate Pourquois-Pas? if you have the time and patience).
This kit supposedly represents a "typical" English Brigantine rigged ship, most likely of the early 19th century. I'll leave that to the experts in sail.
On to the parts included. This is an all plastic kit that comes with vacuformed sails and a loom to create the ratlines. Deadeyes are solid cast plastic and there are no blocks or pulleys included. I built mine (the Heller kit of the English Brigantine) ages ago and filched a bunch of plastic blocks from an old Revell Alabama kit as well as some of the figures and the pre-formed ratlines (stop cringing sail ship guys, I’m a casual builder). The parts, except for the masts and spars, all have typical Heller over scale wood grain effect to them, which really isn't all that bad for us casual builders. The wood grain on the hull stops at the waterline leaving that area dead smooth, as the comedians say "that cain't be right!". The fit of all these parts is entirely another matter. There are gaps and misalignments by the score in this kit. You will be very busy filling gaps and removing flash from most of the parts. One of the things that exacerbates the fit problem was Heller's attempt to get three ship kits out of one set of molds. There is a hole dead center in the ship's hull just below the cap railing for “alternate” parts for each kit. In the case of the Brigantine this is just a section of hull with scuppers. It doesn't matter what it is for, nothing fits right (I have all three versions, so I know from experience). You will have to finesse and putty this area as well as the transom/stern areas with great care for a good appearance. A nice touch is the clear plastic parts included for the various cabin windows, it's nice because when you put them in the view is so distorted you can't see into the unfinished areas inside. The main deck is divided into three sections which leave truly horrendous visible seams to deal with, wood grain notwithstanding. Seeing as how so many parts are shared among the kits it is really hard to say what is right for any of them. You will certainly have to obtain blocks, line for standing and running rigging (to substitute for the hairy stuff that Heller included but not for the Zvezda repops as they included nice stuff), etc. for even a casual rigging job and while you are doing it make sure you have a light touch as the plastic spars bend easily. Sailing ship mavens will want to replace all parts for masts and spars with wood or metal.
In spite of the fact that the kit has so many fit problems and lacks a number of essential parts to properly rig for the casual builder the finished product can be convincing enough. I was even able to use the vacuformed sails with a moderately convincing effect. The directions on the other hand are for the casual builder only. Sailing ship buffs will consult their own sources for the rigging.
(WJS), review dated 8 April 2008.
